J Pharm Phytother 2013, 1:4 (ISSN 2321-5895)

Journal of Pharmacy and Phytotheraputics

RESEARCH ARTICLE

Development and evaluation of antidandruff

shampoo based on natural sources.
Sarath Chandran*, Vipin K V, Ann Rose Augusthy, Lindumol K V, Arun Shirwaikar 1
Department of Pharmaceutics, Academy of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Pariyaram Medical College, Pariyaram, India
1
College of Pharmacy, Gulf Medical University, Ajman, UAE.

ABSTRACT

Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and
other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. It is a cosmetic preparation; Its primary function is of cleansing the hair of accumulated sebum, scalp debris and residues of hair-grooming preparations. Dandruff, a clinical condition caused by Malassezia (Pityrosporum) species is of great cosmetic concern all over the world. Dandruff is known to be
controlled by fungistatic ingredients in Anti-dandruff shampoos. The main objective of this study was to eliminate harmful synthetic ingredient from anti-dandruff shampoo formulation and substitute them with a safe natural ingredients. An
attempt has been made to combine modern formulation technology in to a formula based on natural ingredients. Herbal
shampoo was prepared with Sida cordifolia leaf extract and soap nut and shikakai were used as surfactants. Evaluation of
organoleptic properties, physicochemical and performance test were performed and compared with synthetic marketed
product. The result indicated that formulation LF had properties which were at par in comparison with an established
marketed brand of synthetic anti-dandruff shampoo.

Keywords: Anti-dandruff, shampoo, synthetic, natural .

Received : 2013; Revised & Accepted: 2013; Available online: 2013

INTRODUCTION
Shampoo may be described as a cosmetic preparation meant for
the washing of hair and scalp, packed in a convenient form for use.
Its primary function is of cleansing the hair of accumulated sebum,
scalp debris and residues of hair-grooming preparations
(B.M.Mithal, 1994; ShobhaRani.R.Hiremath,2008). According to the
world health organization, herbal medicines are being used by
about 80% of the world population primarily in the developing
countries for primary health care. This plant-based traditional medicinal system continues to play an essential role in health care (V P
Kapoor, 2005; Kunda B. Patkar,2008).

Sida cordifolia (Family: Malvaceae) commonly known as Bala

(Sanskrit) is an herb that is extensively used as a common herbal
healing agent in the Indian subcontinent. It is used in the folk medicine for several purposes such as antirheumatic, antipyretic, laxative, diuretic, antiinflammatory, analgesic,hypoglycaemic, antiasthmatic, aphrodisiac and to relievenasal congestion. The leaf, bark,
seeds and roots are known to possess medicinal properties. A preliminary phytochemical screening of the hydroalcoholic extract of
the leaves of Sida cordifolia demonstrated the presence of alkaloids, steroids, flavonoids and saponins. The leaves contain ephedrine, pseudoephedrine (vasoconscrictor),vasicinone, vasicine and
Correspondence
Department of Pharmaceutics
Academy of Pharmaceutical Sciences
Pariyaram Medical College, Pariyaram
Mobile: +918893392288, Email: scshenoy@gmail.com

vasicinol. Methanolic extract of Sida cordifolia has been tested for

antimicrobial activity and found to be effective against Mycobacterium species,Bacillus subtilis, Klebsiella pneumonia, Micrococcusvariance compared to other extracts. The aqueous extract
exhibited strong antifungal activity on Cryptococcus neoformans
and Candida albicans (Ternikar, S et al., 2010)
When we look in to traditional shampoo market it is strongly
dominated by shampoos of synthetic origin. Sodium lauryl sulfate
based detergents are the most common but the concentration
will vary considerably from brand to brand and even within a
manufacturer's product range. These shampoos of synthetic ingredients are harmful especially during regular usage. This causes
severe dryness of hair and shaft leading fall in hair and destroying
budding hair shafts. Herbal ingredients or their formulations are
viable alternative to synthetic agents. During the past few decades, there has been a dramatic increase in the use of natural
products in cosmetics. Natural botanicals may be used in their
crude form, purified extracts, or derivatives are added to effect.
Now-a-days, many herbal shampoos are available in the market
which contains herbal ingredients such as plant extracts and essential oil. There are large numbers of plants which are reported
to have beneficial effects on hair and are commonly used in
shampoos. A list of plants which are commonly used in shampoos
is given in table (Table No. 1) along with their common names
and reported functions and uses (Swati Deshmukh et al., 2012;
Shweta K et al., 2011; Pandey Shivanand et al., 2010). In this in-

2013 Scienceletters Publishing. This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License
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Chandran et al., (2013) Evaluation of antidandruff shampoo based on natural sources

Table No. 1: List of ingredients and their category

Sr No

Common name

Botanical name

Parts used

Category

kurunthotti

Sida cordifolia

Leaves

Antidandruff activity

Tulsi

Ocimum sanctum

Leaves

Antimicrobial agent

Neelamari

Indigofera tinctoria

Leaves

Hair coloring and hair growth promoter

Henna

Lawsonia inermis

Leaves

Hair coloring and hair growth promoter

Soap nut

Sapindus indica

Fruit

Detergent

Shikakai

Acacia concinna

Powder

Detergent

Vetiver

Vetiveria zizanioides

Root

Coolant and anti-bacterial agent

Hibiscus

Rosa-sinencis

Leaves

Amla

Emblica officinalis

Fruit

Conditioning agent
Strengthen hair, antidandruff agent, promotion of hair
growth

10

Linseed

Linum usitatissimum

Seed

Sequestering agent

11

Lemon

Citrus limon

Fruit

Antidandruff, natural cleanser, pH modifier

12

Guar gum

Cyamopsis tetragonolobus

Powder

Thickening agent

Table No. 2: Composition of developed formulation

Sl. No
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13

Compound
Sida cordifolia
Ocimum sanctum
Indigoferatinctoria
Lawsoniainermis
Hibiscus rosasinensis
Vetiver zizanoides
Sapindus indica
Acacia concinna
Flax seed
Lemon
Guar gum
Perfume
Amla decoction Q.S.

L F (% w/v)
15
10
10
5
5
5
20
20
0.15
qs
1
qs
100 ml

vestigation an attempt has been made to develop a stable antidandruff shampoo by eliminating all traditionally incorporated
synthetic ingredients and replace them with suitable natural components. Developed shampoo is expected to maintain its stability
throughout its shelf life and keep the expectations of the consumer
as cosmetic product.

odour. All evaluations where reported and discussed (Deshmukh

et al., 2012; Sharma et al., 2011).

b. Determination of pH
Developed formulation was diluted using distilled water to prepare a sample with 10 % concentration. The prepared sample was
checked for pH using a digital pH meter at room temperature
302C (Sharmaet al., 2011).

c. Determination of percentage solids contents

A clean dry china dish was weighedand added with 4 grams of
shampoo. The dish with shampoo was weighed. The exact weight
of the shampoo was calculated. The china dish withshampoo was
placed on the hot plate untilthe liquid portion was evaporated.
Theweight after drying was calculated (Sharmaet al., 2011).

d. Measurement of viscosity
The viscosity of the shampoo was determined by using Brookfield
Viscometer LVDV Prime-I. The viscosity of shampoo was measured at room temperature i.e. 302C with varying rpm and
torque (Sharma et al., 2011).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

e. Surface tension measurement

All plant materials were collected from approved herbal gardens

and identified and authenticated by botanist. Collected plant parts
were processed and stored under prescribed conditions. Extracts
were prepared according to established procedures and subjected
them for identification test of various phytochemical constituents
(Mali R et al., 2010; Sagar R and Dixit V K, 2005; Chukwu O.O.C et al.,
2011; V. Subhadradevi et al.,2012; RupeshkumarGhagi et al., 2011;
Sabahat Saeed and Perween Tariq, 2007). Formulation developed
from natural ingredients (LF) was compared with a established marketed product (MS) for evaluations listed below. Results obtained
during the study was subjected for discussion

Dilute the shampoo using distilled water to fix 10% as concentration. Measurements were carried out using stalagmometer. Dip
the flattened end of stalagmometer in to beaker containing sample of developed shampoo and suck it until the level reaches the
mark. Fix that in the stand and allow the sample to run slowly
from the mark. Count the number of drops formed when level of
liquid reaches from A to B. Repeat the experiment with distilled
water. The data was calculated using following equation
(Sharmaet al., 2011).

Formulation of shampoo
Composition of the developed formulation is summarized in the
table (Table No.2). Aqueous decoction of Emblica officinalis was
divided into 2 parts. First part was added with herbal extract and
second part was used to mix powders of soap nut and shikakai.
Both parts were mixed. To the mixture flax seed, guar gum and
stabilizer were added with stirring. Shampoo formulation was filtered and made up to the volume using aqueous decoction of Emblica officinalis. Developed shampoo was stored in a suitable container and used for further evaluations.
Evaluation of shampoo formulation

a. Physical appearance/visual inspection

Developed formulation was evaluated for their clarity, color and

W1 is weight of empty beaker.

W2 is weight of beaker with distilled water
W3 is Weight of beaker with shampoo solution.
N1 is no. of drops of distilled water.
N2 is no. of drops of shampoo solution.
R1 is surface tension of distilled water at room temperature.
R2 is surface tension of shampoo solution

f. Cleaning action
5 grams of wool yarn was added in grease and it was placed in
flask containing 200 ml of water with 1 gram of shampoo. Temperature of content in the flask was maintained at 302C. The

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J Pharm Phytother 2013, 1:4 (ISSN 2321-5895)

flask was shaken for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 shakes per minute.
The solution was removed andsample was taken out, dried and
weighed.The amount of grease removed wascalculated by using the
following equation (Swati Deshmukh et al., 2012; Sharma et al.,
2011).

In which, DP= percentage of detergency power

C= weight of sebum in the control sample
T= weight of sebum in the test sample

g. Foaming ability and foam stability

Cylinder shake method with slight modification was used for determining foaming ability. 50ml of the 1% shampoo solution was put
into a 250 ml graduated measuring cylinder and covered with hand.
Measuring cylinder was shaken for 1 minute. The total volume of
the foam contents after 1 minute shaking was recorded. The procedure was continued for 5 minutes .

h. In-vitro anti-dandruff activity

Candida albicans were employed for testing antifungal activity using
the cup-plate method. The culture was maintained on sabourauds
agar slants. 20 ml of melted sabourauds agar medium was inoculated with 0.2 ml of 72 hour old suspension of Candida albicans and
poured in to a petri dish. The cups (10 mm diameter) were punched
in the petri dishes and filled with 0.05ml of a solution of the sample
dissolved in DMSO (10 ml of shampoo in 100 ml of DMSO). The
plates were kept for diffusion at 40C for one hour and incubated at
300C for 48 hours. After the completion of incubation period, the
zone of inhibition in millimeter were measured (Ternikar, S. G et
al.,2010).

i. Stability studies
Stability studies were performed in accordance with ICH guidelines
for accelerated testing with required modifications. The sample
taken formulation was taken and kept at room temperature (30
20C) as well as refrigerator (420C) for duration of one month. The
samples were tested for their physical appearance, pH, viscosity, %
cleaning action and foam stability (Sharmaet al., 2011).
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The versatile functionality is expected from shampoo by todays
consumer which is far beyond its general functions. Majority of
ingredients in these shampoos have been under severe attack due
to its potential risk with its usage. Hence formulating shampoo with
safer natural and naturally derived ingredients may be desirable.
Ingredients used in this investigation have been already established
with their activity and usage among the scientific community as well
as general consumers. More than the functionality of ingredients,
main challenge was to develop stable and functionally effective
shampoo from these natural ingredients. The ingredients along with
their common name, botanical name, parts used and category has
been listed in the table (Table No.1).The result of phytochemical
screening showed that the extracts were rich of alkaloids, flavonoids, phenolic compounds, saponins, amino acids etc. These phytochemical constituents has got well established antidandruff, detergent and conditioning activities (Mali R et al., 2010).
In this study Sida cordifolia Linn was the major ingredient with antidandruff usage. While formulating herbal antidandruff shampoo,
initial studies focused on selection of extract of Sida cordifolia which
has proved antidandruff activity. Aqueous and alcoholic extract of
Sida cordifolia was taken, in which aqueous extract is proved to
have better antidandruff activity which may be due to the presence
of vasicinol, ephedrine, vasicinone, hsypaphorine. Hence aqueous
extract of Sida cordifolia was used to develop the shampoo formulations (Ternikar, S et al., 2010).
Formulating cosmetic such as hair shampoo using completely natu-

ral raw material is a challenging task. The challenge lies in selecting materials that can be rationally justified as natural and formulating them into a stable hair shampoo thats functionally comparable with their synthetic counter parts. Aqueous decoctions of
Emblica officinalis was selected and used as a base for this shampoo formulation. Since the aqueous decoction of Emblica officinalis has an established antiseptic activity, which may intern improve the stability of the formulation. Most of the herbal shampoo use water as the base which may cause stability issue for the
formulation, the aqueous decoction of Emblica officinalis may be
a better alternative for the commonly used aqueous base.
Evaluation of developed product for the test parameters such as
pH, % solid contents, viscosity, cleaning action, foam stability and
in-vitro anti-dandruff activity were carried out in this study. A
commercially available synthetic anti-dandruff shampoo was
selected and subjected for evaluation with similar parameters.
Good physical appearance is always essential for any cosmetic
preparation and it is no difference for shampoo. Physical evaluations were carried out for characteristics such as color, odour, and
transparency (Table No. 3). Developed formulation LF was dark
brown in color and transparent. The formulation LF had good
odour which may play a major role on its aesthetic appeal toTable No. 3: Physical evaluations and pH
Sr.
NO

Formulations code

Color

Odour

Transparency

pH

LF

Dark brown

Good

Transparent

5.42

MS

Yellowish
white

Good

Transparent

5.48

wards the consumer. The physical evaluation of the sample

against marketed sample proved no significant differences in
terms of odour and transparency expect for color. Which may reemphasis the ability of natural ingredients to develop hair shampoo with similar physical attributes as that of their synthetic counterparts. Balanced pH is one of the ways to minimize damage to
the hair. Citrous limoni is one of the natural alternatives to
achieve the pH range. The formulation LF possesses pH 5.42,
which was almost near to that of synthetic counter parts (Table
No.3).
Formulation of shampoo using natural or synthetic ingredients
may contain too many solids. Filtration is one of the methods to
minimize the solid content up to an extent. If the shampoo has
too many solids, it will be hard to work into the hair or too hard
to wash out. The formulation LF had percentage solids contents
of 25.75% and marketed sample MS percentage solid content of
25%. The value seems to be comparable with the established
marketed brand (Table No.4). It has been mentioned that a good
shampoo should be able to decreases the surface tension of pure
water to about 40 dynes/cm. The reduction in surface tension of
water from 72.8 dynes/cm to 25.86 dynes/cm by the herbal shampoos is an indication of their good detergency action The formulation LF was possessing lower surface tension value i.e. 25.86
dynes/cm; hence it may be having which may have good detergent action. The possible reason for the lower surface tension
value of LF may be because of the combination of soap nut and
shikakai in an optimized ratio as surfactant. When these results
Table No. 4: % solid content, surface tension, and % cleansing action for formulations
Sr.
No

Formulation code

LF

MS

Surface
tension
(dynes/cm)

% Cleaning action

25.75%

25.86

33.22%

25.00%

24.76

32.17%

% solid
content

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Chandran et al., (2013) Evaluation of antidandruff shampoo based on natural sources

were compared with the marketed sample there was no significant
difference observed. This proves the effectiveness of soap nut and
shikakai in combination as a best replacement for synthetic surfactant, which are commonly incorporated in marketed shampoo.
Cleaning action was tested on wool yarn in grease.The efficiency of
developed formulations to remove the grease applied on the wool
yarn was assessed and reported (Table No.4). Formulation LF, which
was incorporated with multiple surfactants, had percentage cleaning
action of 33.22. The percentage cleaning action obtained for the
marketed sample in this investigation was 32.17, which was marginally lesser than LF3. The possible reason behind the improved percentage cleaning action of developed formulation LF may be because of incorporation of two surface active agents, soap nut and
shikakai in optimized concentration. The presence of these surface
active agents might have resulted in reduction of surface tension;
more effectively than its established marketed sample (Chris the
limey , 2010).Another important advantage found with developed
formulation especially LF, was its ability not to leave the wool yarn
excessively dried. Whereas, the wool yarn sample which was treated
with marketed sample left dried out, this was considered to be one
of the major drawbacks of synthetic hair shampoos containing synthetic detergents which are regarded on oil strippers (Chris the
limey , 2010).
Guar gum was used in this formulation for improving viscosity. Guar
gum has high water-thickening potency, which is almost eight times
greater than corn starch. Hence, only a small quantity was needed
to increase the viscosity of a product (0.5-1%).The viscosity measurement showed that theviscosity of the samples changes gradually
with the increase in rpm, therefore the shampoo formulations were
time dependent and developed shampoo formulation was shear
thinning or pseudo plastic innature. Pseudo plastic behavior is adesirable attribute in shampoo formulation. This behavior may favor
spreading property of developed formulations (Fig No.1).Developed
formulation LF possessed higher viscosity and with increase in the
shear rate, the viscosity of the shampoos dropped in compared with
marketed sample; this is a favorable property which eases the
spreading of the shampoo on hair.
Foam is also called lathering and does not have much to do with
the cleaning process. But it is of paramount importance to the consumer and is therefore an important criterion in evaluation of shampoos (Sharmaet al., 2011).The higher foaming property of LF may be
due to the combination of soap nut and shikakai. Normally it is
considered that forming ability of natural shampoo is not comparable with its synthetic counter parts. But the study proves that combination of natural surfactants such as soap nut and shikakai in
optimized concentration (20% w/v) can generate sufficient foam for
the shampoo. When the developed formulation was compared with
established marketed sample, even though foam volume was higher
for marketed sample143 ml in 1 minute and 129 ml after 5 minutes.
Whereas the LF which had highest foam volume, ie130 ml in 1 minute and 119 ml after 5 minutes, was not showing significant differences in terms of foam volume and foam stability. When we closely
observed the data, the drop in foam volume was marginally higher
for marketed sample when compared with LF (Table No. 5) This data
Table No.5: Foam volume of developed formulation
Time in
minutes
1
2
3
4
5

Foam volume in ml
LF
130
127
124
121
119

MS
143
140
134
132
129

may prove the ability of natural surfactants soap nut and shikakai; in
optimized concentration as the best replacement for the harsh synthetic detergents which are commonly used in majority of synthetic

and their commercial herbal shampoo.

Dandruff is a common embarrassing scalp disorder affecting

global populations. The aim of the dandruff treatment is to reduce the count of Malassezia furfur on the scalp and goals of
therapy are to reduce morbidity and prevent complications.
Malassezia furfuris yeast like fungus Sabahat Saeed and Perween
Tariq, 2007; A R Manikar and C I Jolly,2001),so antifungal study is
carried out for evaluating antidandruff activity of developed
formulations. Dandruff is caused by the commensal lipophilic
yeast and hence cannot be completely eliminated but can only
be managed. Recent years for the treatment of dandruff, verity
of synthetic and natural ingredients are commercially incorporated in shampoo.The antifungal activity of developed formulations showed positive resultsagainst the tested fungal pathogen
Candidaalbicans, (Table No. 6). Formulation LF had shown maximum inhibition, ie 20mm. Marketed formulation possesses lower
antifungal activity as compared with LF. The maximum antifungal activity of formulation LF may be because of the presence of
Sidacordifolia, which has established anti-dandruff activity. But
this study may prove that ability of Sida cordifolia as antidandruff agent might have improved in the presence of good
surfactant ie optimized combination of soap nut and shikakai.
When zone of inhibition was measured, formulation LF3 was
having highest zone of inhibition of 20 mm, which was higher
than the commercially established marketed shampoo containing synthetic ingredients. The results from in-vitro anti-dandruff
study confirm the ability of antidandruff shampoo developed
from natural ingredients is the best replacement for synthetic
counterparts, if formulated with best ingredients in optimized
combination.
Table No.6: In vitro antidandruff activity of formulations
Sr
NO

Organisms

Formulations

Zone of
inhibition (mm)

Candida albicans

LF

20

Candida albicans

MS

19

Stability and acceptability of organoleptic properties of formulations during the storage indicated physical and chemical stability
of developed formulations. Stability of LF was checked for selected parameters after the interval of one month. There was marginal increase in pH was reported for the developed formulation
with increase in temperature, ie at 4520C after one month.

Fig No.1: Viscosity for the developed formulation LF

When % cleansing action was assessed for developed formulation after one month, it was evident that % cleansing action was
dropped at negligible level. Over all stability of shampoo developed from natural ingredients was good at a temperature ranging between 4 450C.
CONCLUSION
The main purpose behind this investigation was to develop a
stable and functionally effective antidandruff shampoo by excluding all types of synthetic additives, which are normally incorporated in such formulations. When investigation data were

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J Pharm Phytother 2013, 1:4 (ISSN 2321-5895)

assessed, it was quite evident that development of stable, effective

hair shampoo which may be commercially replacing the existing
shampoo based on synthetic agents was possible. Main challenge
lies in the area of standardizing the natural ingredients which may
assure the batch to batch consistency of these products when produced in large scale. Shift towards nature does not mean to produce products by destroying existing nature. It will be essential to
have a green revolution which may definitely help our society to
survive healthier and long lasting. This world believes in the concept
of green pharmacy or green cosmetics, hence there is a huge scope
for shampoo developed from natural origin. But more radical approach in popularizing natural shampoo, with emphasis on safety
and efficacy has to be done among the consumers. Further long
term studies may be recommended to prove the safety, stability and
efficacy of this formulation to make it suitable as a commercial
product.

Kunda B. Patkar , (2008), Adulterants in Asian patent medicines Indian J Plast Surg
Supplement, Vol 41,pp no: 134- 137.

DECLARATION OF INTEREST

Swati Deshmukh, Bindurani Kaushal and Shweta Ghode, (2012), Formulations and
evaluation of herbal shampoo and comparative studies with herbal marketed
shampoo, Int J Pharm Bio Sci; Vol 3(3), pp no: 638 - 645.

The authors report no declarations of interest.

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