HOW TO PLAY THIS GAME

This guide has been written under the assumption that you have a basic idea of what
you want your character to be. You should at least figure out what it is your character is doing
with their life, and possibly what their career is or what their life goals are. Pick something you
know youll stick with. You can work from there using this simple step-by-step process.
STEP 1: CHOOSE A RACE
STEP 2: KNOW YOUR CHARACTER SHEET
STEP 3: TAKE ADVANTAGES
STEP 4: TAKE DISADVANTAGES
STEP 5: CHOOSE SKILLS AND ATTRIBUTES
STEP 6: ANALYZE YOUR CHARACTER
STEP 7: LEARN THE GAME
STEP 8: YOU CANT GET TO STEP 8
If you know absolutely nothing about GURPS, none of whats on that list made any
sense to you. If you think you understood it you might be right, but chances are that you didnt
fully grasp what each of these steps actually consist of.
You know other RPG systems, you know D&D, and youve got countless sessions under
your belt. GURPS should be easy to get into since youre already experienced with tabletop
gaming right?

NOPE.
This system is absolutely bonkers. It doesnt appeal to newcomers because of the sheer
mass of information it presents all at once. It expects a lot from you, and you will need to muster
a lot of effort before it ever starts giving back to you. Its a very ambitious concept but its
actually, for lack of a better word, flawless. Once you get an idea of what exactly GURPS is
capable of, youll realize that no other system can be lined up next to GURPS and still be
recognized as even relatively decent. Its worth the time it takes to figure it out.

Ignore the steps for now. Right now youll just be learning about the important terms that
are critical to understanding how this game functions. Only the basic information is included in
this introduction.

CHARACTER POINTS (CPs)

Progression is not based on EXP or how many dragons youve slain. These things called
Character Points (CPs) measure just how valuable your character is in comparison to others.
CPs are used to advance your attributes, skill ranks, and other traits that make your character
more useful.
Everybody (NPCs included) has a pool of spent CPs and a pool of unused/ remaining
CPs. Your rating is measured by your spent CPs, as your unspent CPs arent doing anything
for you. CP ratings can be directly compared to one another to judge how much better one
character is than another in solely objective terms. At the beginning of a campaign the entire
party usually has exactly the same CP rating, but some people usually end up getting a few
more CPs than their compatriots as the campaign goes on. For this campaign, we are all
starting with +75 CPs.
You dont murderhobo monsters or murderhobo strange loot you find in caves for CPs;
you get them for playing the game right. You get CPs for roleplaying your character even when
it would be a much better idea to do something else. You can also get them for reaching major
story arcs or finishing missions that the GM designed for you. The most consistent way to get
CPs is by making it all the way through a session. At the end of every session, the GM will give
each player up to 5 points. He cant give you any more than this, but might also rule that you get
less or even no CPs if you played your character poorly in that session.
You can also lose CPs by coming under circumstances that make your character worse,
like losing an arm or becoming permanently blind. Being at a disadvantage like this effectively
lowers your CP rating since you would be worse off than before, when you had your old rating.
Even if you somehow reattached your arms and corneas and got them to function exactly how
they did before you lost them, those CPs are still gone for good. The CPs you lose this way are
first taken out of your unspent pool, and if thats empty, the rest will be taken out of your spent
CP (and therefore, your CP rating). When points get taken out of your CP rating, all CPs you
acquire thereafter must be spent to make up the points that got taken from it until you reach
your old CP rating. The CPs that you spend by doing this dont give you any benefits, cannot be
recovered, and are essentially forfeited.
You can get additional CPs at the start of a new campaign if you willingly give yourself a
disadvantage, since it gives you negative CPs. More on this at STEP 4.

CLASSES

There are no classes. Everything that defines your character comes from your CPs. It
makes sense to specialize in most cases, but you are free to spend CPs on whatever you want
at any time as long as you can justify why your character would want to do that.
If you were looking to pick a class then picking a race is as good as it gets. See STEP 1.

ATTRIBUTES

All of your primary and secondary attributes start at 10. You do not roll for them. They
must be purchased with CPs. You can opt to take points away from a particular attribute and
gain the amount of CPs those points are worth if you are making a new character.
Your attributes are listed on your character sheet on the Main tab:

Strength (ST) [10 CPs per point]

ST measures your capacity to use your body to both apply and absorb force. It has its
own checks, but most of the benefits it can give are a result of the secondary attributes that it is
responsible for:
-

Hitpoints (HP) [2 CPs per point]

Your base HP is the amount of damage you can take before you risk falling
unconscious. Your base HP is equal to your base ST; if you buy a point of ST
you will also gain a point of HP for no extra cost. You may also spend CPs to
directly improve HP, but this has no bearing on your ST or any other attributes; if
you spend 10 CPs on HP you will gain 5 HP and nothing else.
Not to be confused with HT.
For information on how low or negative HP affects you, see STEP 7.

Basic Lift (BL)

Your Basic Lift is the maximum weight you can lift over your head with one hand
in one second. Its equal to your ST 2 5. If your ST is 10, your BL is 20. Basic
Lift is used to measure the points at which you are encumbered by whatever
youre carrying. You cannot buy BL directly; ST must be bought in order to raise
it. Its important, but its not really as useful as the other attributes in a Star Wars
setting.
Page 17 in the Basic Set has a table that incorrectly measures the specific
encumbrance weights for BL. Fortunately your character sheet automatically
calculates the correct numbers for you once you input your BL.
The specific effects of each encumbrance level can be found on

Striking Damage (Dmg) [+5 CPs per extra point of ST]

This only affects the damage you do with non-Lightsaber melee and thrown
weapons. There are two different attack types that Dmg can influence: Swing
(sw) and Thrust (thr). A thr attack isnt as strong as a sw attack, but they each
have their own unique damage type. CPs can be spent to move your Dmg up a
rank as if your ST was 1 point higher than it actually is. It does not affect your
actual ST or any of its subsidiaries.
For a table of what level ST does what Dmg for thr and sw attacks, see STEP 7.

Dexterity (DX) [+20 CPs per point]

DX measures your ability to move swiftly and gracefully. It is arguably one of the most
important attributes to have for combat: a close second to HT. A lot of skills (see STEP 5) also
base their rolls off of DX, making it a very versatile attribute for both combat and non-combat.
-

Basic Speed [+5 CPs for 0.25 of a point]

Basic Speed is your reaction time. This attribute is better known as initiative in
other systems. Your Basic Speed is a quarter of the sum of your DX and HT, but
you can just treat every point of DX and HT as 0.25 and get the same results.
The only thing this attribute directly affects is determining who acts first, but it
also has two very important sub-attributes of its own: Dodge and Basic Move.

Dodge
Your Dodge is simply your Basic Speed +3, rounded down. Its technically a
combat maneuver so I will have another description for it over in Combat, and HT
plays as much a role as DX does in determining what your Dodge is, if not a
better one (its only half the price).
The main reason I associate DX with it is because of the Acrobatic-Dodge
maneuver, which is a DX based skill check (see STEP 5) that can increase
Dodge by +2 on a success but also gives a -2 if it fails. In any case Dodge is
your only way to defend against blaster fire, which is very scary in this system.
Thats what I based my character on, but feel free to do whatever you want.
There are a lot of viable ways to build a character.

Basic Move [+5 CPs per point]

Basic Move is how far (in yards) you can go in one second or combat round. Its
equal to your Basic Speed, rounded down. It has uses outside of combat as well
and determines just how far you can jump, among other things. Going fast is
pretty neat, but its not that high of a priority most of the time.

Intelligence (IQ) [+20 CPs per point]

IQ is a very powerful attribute. It governs the majority of all skills (see STEP 5) and a
single point can cover a lot of ground as a result. The tradeoff it makes for having such amazing
utility is its small impact on combat, although several IQ based skills can be used somewhat
effectively in a fight; some might just let you avoid combat altogether. Anythings possible when
you take IQ. Im on a horse.
-

Will [+5 CPs per point]

Will measures your mental fortitude. Its not exactly something you can use in
every situation, but it comes in handy. Its hardly what you buy IQ for; this is just
a great convenience when the need for it actually arises. Thats the reason you
get a lot of IQ: its useful everywhere. This attribute might just save your life at
some point. Its just not something you should put points into when you can
choose IQ instead.

Perception (Per) [+5 CPs per point]

Perception is, like all of IQs benefits, extremely useful. Its another one of those
life-saving attributes, except this one guarantees survival in almost every
scenario. Many unfortunate, terrible losses are just a single failed Perception
check away. This is definitely a good use of your points if you have no plans to
grab any IQ. 14 is a good number to leave this at in that case.

Health (HT)

[+10 CPs per point]

This attribute is important for everybody, especially for people who think they can get
away with just being a brainiac or just being sneaky. I dont care who you are; that big brain of
yours isnt going to do you much good against a critical hit from an enemys blaster. Make sure
you have a plan for when you get walloped, its going to happen at some point whether you like
it or not. Not taking at least one or two points in this attribute will undoubtedly get you killed very
soon. If you still choose to leave your HT untouched after reading this, then you acknowledge
that you are taking a huge risk. Consider yourself warned.
-

Fatigue Points (FP) [+3 CPs per point]

I have no idea how FP is supposed to work in the actual game. I suppose that
will just be a matter that will sort itself out once we get acclimated to playing it a
little. As far as I can tell, this is for stuff like holding your breath, nonstop
sprinting, and using something called extra effort. I have a feeling that FP will
end up being transient at best in the actual campaign. Im probably wrong
though; apparently losing all of your FP is capable of killing you. So, uh, dont
work too hard, I guess.

Basic Speed
If youre stocking up on IQ, buying HT is going to be your source of Basic Speed
and Move. Its not a good idea to get both DX and IQ because you would be
spreading your points rather thin; they both target very broad areas of skills so
having both would be redundant and expensive. A combination of DX and HT is
also very effective. Take note of how pretty much everything goes well with HT.

Basic Move

CHECKS

I know you know what a check is. The reason that Ive put this here is mostly to remind
you that rolling 3d6 is nothing like rolling a d20.

A d20 has a flat 5% chance to roll any given number on it. You are going to be rolling on
a bell curve. This greatly reduces the odds of rolling a critical (3, 4, 17, 18). It makes also makes
your modifiers matter a lot more.

Look at this table. In GURPS, you want to roll at or below your Skill Level. See how easy
it is to roll at or below 14? The probability of success is greater than it would be to roll a d20 and
not roll a 1 or a 2. Those are amazing odds, and your character is only at what is considered
level 1 by most standards. This is not your run-of-the-mill d20 based fantasy RPG where your
rogue is a brainless halfwit for the first two years of his career.

SKILLS

Your skills are your primary actions both in and out of combat. Theres a skill for nearly
every purpose, and they are called upon any time you draw your weapon, grease your pistons,
do the nasty, and other such actions (not necessarily in that order). All of them are 3d6 rolls.
Ill go into a lot more detail about this at STEP 5.

CRITICAL SUCCESSES AND MISSES

There is no such thing as a natural die roll since they are never directly modified, so
there is never an unnatural roll to differentiate it from.
With that said, a roll (the sum of all three dice) of 3 or 4 is a critical success. No matter
what number you had to roll under, even if it was a 1 or a 2, you succeed in the most
spectacular fashion possible. If this was an attempt to attack someone, they dont get to defend
against it. Critical success ranges can also be higher if your effective skill is 15 or above.
A critical failure is a roll of 17 or 18. Sometimes all this means is that you automatically
miss, but a roll of 18 usually isnt so kind. More information about this is on STEP 7.
-

ADVANTAGES

You can spend CPs to buy advantages, which are special traits that let you do specific
things that skills dont already let you do. They usually do not require you to roll for the abilities
that they grant. The advantage may manifest physically, mentally, socially, supernaturally and/or
be of an exotic nature.
Supernatural advantages do not make much sense for a Star Wars campaign outside of
manipulation of the Force, so in STEP 3 I have taken the liberty of excluding most of them from
my list of possible advantages you might want to consider picking. Exotic advantages most
often pertain to certain races and make no sense for a typical human being to have.
A good chunk of those advantages are also superhuman (x-ray vision, self-duplication,
time travel at will, and laser-eye beams to name a few), so Ive ruled out a good chunk of those
too. However, some of them do remain fairly plausible for a few of the races that are available to
you. These include unique physical traits such has having extra arms, water-breathing, 360o
vision, etc.
If you arent pleased with the selection of advantages that Ive included in this guide,
then feel free to browse the full selection of advantages on page 32 of the Basic Set. They will
also include more in-depth descriptions of what Ill be providing here, so you should take a look
at them anyway. Dont worry about it until STEP 3 comes.

DISADVANTAGES

These are pretty much the opposite of advantages. They limit and hinder you and
otherwise completely change the way you play your character, even if its not optimal, just like
having a Lawful Good alignment. Now, why would you want to subject yourself to that? Because
disadvantages cost negative CPs. This decreases your spent pool of CPs, and in order to not
exceed the 75 CP limit for making your character, this lets you take additional skill training,
advantages, and attributes in order to compensate.
Some disadvantages include, for example, not having one or several of the expected
amount of limbs for your particular species. The more hindering the disadvantage, the more
negative CPs you get. Not having a thumb is a lot worse than not having your pinky finger! You
can go into a negative value of CPs for your spent pool if youd like, and you would then have
however many CPs below 0 to spend in addition to the 75 you were given initially.
Theres more to having disadvantages than cutting off your limbs. You can have a
mental or social disadvantage just as well maybe even several! You might suffer from severe
hallucinations in conjunction with being a sociopath, pyromaniac, autophobe, necrophiliac The
possibilities are endless!
Remember, youre allowed to take as many disadvantages as you are willing to bear.
You just have to justify all of them with a half-decent backstory.

COMBAT

I know that movement in combat is based on a hexagonal grid, but I only have very
basic idea of how the combat system works exactly (I will have more details at STEP 7), but the
way I think it works goes a little something like this:
1. INITIATIVE: Highest Basic Speed goes first. In a tie, use the higher DX. If still a tie, roll
for it or something.
2. READYING: In order to draw a weapon, you must use a Ready maneuver. You may
move while doing this, but you may not attack unless you make a successful Fast-Draw
skill check. Some weapons need to be readied after every attack.

3. DECLARE MANEUVER: A combatant with a readied weapon may choose to do any of

the following maneuvers: Attack; All Out Attack; All Out Defense; Move and Attack;
Feint; Aim; Evaluate; Ready (a different weapon or shield); Move; Change Posture
(kneel, prone, sit, stand, etc., a crouch is free); Wait; Do Nothing

4. DEFENDING: When someone is aware that they are being attacked, they have the
opportunity to defend against the attack unless they used an All Out Attack on their last

turn. They may respond by Blocking, Parrying, or Dodging. If they have neither a readied
melee weapon that can parry nor a blocking device, they may only attempt to Dodge
unless theyre trained in like Martial Arts or some shit, iunno. Defending against a ranged
attack has some strange rules that Im not familiar with, but they can always be
defended against with a successful Dodge.
ALL-OUT: If they declared an All Out Defense (AOD or AD) on their last turn, they get a
bonus to whatever defense type they declared with it. AD (Double) means they may
defend with two different defense types against a single attack that round. AD Parry and
AD Dodge give a +1 bonus to Parry and a +3 bonus to Dodge respectively against a
single attack that round.
5. ATTACKING: When making an attack with any weapon, the user must make a skill roll
corresponding to the weapon they are using. If the attacker is using a ranged weapon
and used an Aim maneuver against the same target on the previous turn, the attack gets
a bonus to hit, which varies per weapon on a table somewhere. If the roll is successful,
the target must make an attempt to defend. If their defense roll failed, or they used an All
Out Attack on the previous round, the attack hits and damage is rolled. A critical success
(3, 4, sometimes higher; see STEP 5) means that the target gets no defense. A skill roll
of 3 means the attack does maximum damage. Feints are described in STEP 7.
ALL-OUT: There are four different types of All Out Attacks (AO or AOA): Determined;
Double; Feint; and Strong. A Determined melee AO has a +4 to hit, a ranged one has
+1. All of the other AOs are exclusive to melee. Double allows two attack rolls with a
weapon that does not need to be readied before use or with two weapons (-4 offhand
penalty applies). Feints are described in STEP 7. Strong does +2 damage or +1 damage
per die, whichever is better.

This covers the basics of combat. Everything else is in STEP 7.

STEP ONE:
CHOOSE A RACE
Choosing a race you want to play is tough if you know nothing about this game. Unless
you had planned on being a filthy Human, you need to know about all of the things in the miniglossary I just provided in order to make a decision. Im going to assume you read all of it if you
are at this part of the guide.
Your race is your baseline for your character, which is why its the first step. You will be
selecting a list of racial templates. A template contains specific advantages and disadvantages
that your character must have in order to be a part of that race. When you make a character, it
starts out as whatever the average member of that race is. You can use your CPs to change
your character in any way after that, but you may not remove your templates default
advantages, disadvantages, or trained skills. Your race just has those qualities, plain and
simple.
Your racial template makes suggestions for attribute scores, but you dont have leave
them at what they give you. You can add or take away anything you want from your characters
attributes as long as you have the CPs for it. Make sure that your attributes also make some
sense for your race too; a Jawa cant just go all in on ST to be a hulking monstrosity, they just
arent capable of that. The attribute suggestions just reflect what the average for that race is.
Every race has an average Tech Level (TL) that reflects how advanced their concept of
technology is. In this campaign, all modern equipment is TL 11. Several races have a TL below
this, and they suffer a massive -5 penalty to IQ-based skill rolls per point of TL difference when
using modern technology. A backstory can explain a slightly higher level of TL for your race, but
you should still try to act like your race. Gammoreans are a good example of a race that can still
function in a TL 11 campaign despite a huge 8 level difference.
Dont be all my character is the first of his kind either. You dont just set a trend or
break every physical boundary of your race just because youre special. If you want something
that your race doesnt have then you should just play a different race.
Additional advantages and disadvantages may be added alongside your default ones as
long as they do not directly contradict them. For example, if your race has Cowardice as a
disadvantage then you cant go and choose Fearlessness to cancel it out. Youre just stuck with
Cowardice.

Entry Fees

Nearly every race has a cost of CPs in order to be a part of it that can be negative or
positive. A filthy default Human has no advantages, no disadvantages, a TL of 11, and 10 in
every attribute. This means that their CP rating is exactly 0. This gives them an entry fee of 0
CPs since they have nothing particularly special about them, so the amount of CPs you get to
spend on advantages will remain unaffected if you choose to be a Human.
There are only two other races that have no entry fee: Ebranites and Kalduu. Their
advantages and disadvantages are the exact same value, so they just result in a CP rating of 0.
And unlike Humans, they have plenty of complexity and depth to them. Unfortunately, neither of
them would make any sense in this campaign. You would need an impossibly good backstory to
play either of them.
Everything else has a fee that will either increase or reduce the amount of CPs you can
spend to improve your character.
-

Negative Entry Fees

If a race has enough disadvantages, the deficit of CPs can outweigh their advantages to
the point where the average member of that race has a negative CP rating, and thus, a negative
entry fee. All of our characters will be starting out with a CP rating of 75, so if your race has a
negative entry fee, you get an amount of CPs equal to that to further upgrade your character
with attributes and advantages.
For example, a Gammorean has poor IQ, TL, and -50 CPs worth of disadvantages,
which includes things like Bloodlust, Lv. 5 Intolerance and a few other nasty things. Having poor
IQ and TL are also disadvantages, with IQ being worth -20 CPs and TL worth -5 per dropped
point. Gammoreans have and IQ of 7 (-60 CPs) and a TL of 3 (-40 CPs), which totals to -100
CPs.
They have a fair share of advantages too, though: they have an extra 2 ST, which costs
+10 CPs each point, so they have 12 ST (+20 CPs). They also have 1 extra HP, worth +2 CPs.
Their advantages include Dark Vision, Combat Reflexes and some other neat things, which total
up to +48 CPs. They also have +12 CPs spread across a few combat skills.
This totals up to -130 CPs from disadvantages and +62 CPs in advantages. The sum of
these is the entry fee for this race, which ends up being -68 CPs. The average Gammorean
has a CP rating of -68, which is 68 points lower than the average Human CP rating. If you chose
to play a Gammorean, you would get to spend 143 CPs!
Gammoreans are a rather extreme example of a negative entry fee. Most negative entry
fees are usually around the -20 to -30 range.

Positive Entry Fees

A positive entry fee means that you will have less CPs to spend by choosing that race.
Their advantages simply outweigh their disadvantages, and their average member is better than
the average human.
Im not going to bog down an example of positive entry fees with numbers like I did in the
description for negative entry fees above. If youve already read that and understood the
concept, you should be able to understand positive entry fees just fine.
Droids are people too! Well, not really, but they do have a multitude of their own racial
templates. You wont be able to play one in this campaign however, since our campaign takes
place in 3951 BBY and the only templates they have in the book are for droids that hadnt been
invented until around 100 BBY. They also have very costly entry fees, so Ill be using them for
example purposes.
A Droideka Destroyer Droid requires +1142 CPs, and it is impossible to choose one for a
character if you are to still meet the +75 CP rating limit. There arent enough disadvantages in
the entire game that would bring you down anywhere near that number.
3PO Protocol Droids have a far more reasonable fee, though its still unreasonable when
compared to the normal, organic races. It has an entry fee of +96 CPs, which means you would
have to take -21 CPs worth of disadvantages if you wanted to play it at all, and you would have
no points left to improve yourself any further after that!
Positive entry fees are not necessarily a bad thing. Their only drawback is that it gives
you less variety in your customization options. However, some advantages are exclusively
racial. Many races with positive entry fees offer at least one unique advantage that a Human
cant just buy later on. This makes positive entry fees a worthwhile investment, even though
youre limiting yourself a little.
Some races offer very powerful combinations of advantages right at the start too, even if
theyre not exclusively racial. Just looking at the stats of every race can give you an idea of how
youd further like to customize your character even if you decide to play a different race.

DISCLAIMER

You arent going to know what any of the advantages and disadvantages of the races on
the list are going to do if you arent already familiar with them, but thats okay. You dont need to
know them. You just need to look at the names of the traits of each race that catches your eye.
Try to get an idea of what exactly a character of that race is capable of. Do not start looking
things up. Ask yourself if your first impression of this character would be something youd be
interested in playing. If the answer is yes, then go to STEP 2. If its only a little bit interesting,
keep it in mind and look at the rest of the races. Youll probably find a few that you like.
Hooray for judging characters by their race!

RACE TABLE

Over the next 10 pages is a list of all of the races that I believe could work for this
particular campaign setting. If you would like to look at the full list of races (along with
comprehensive descriptions of the races culture and physiologies) then consult the Star Wars:
Sentient Species Book, which can be found here. My list covers 65 different races; the book
covers 220.
-

True Entry Fee

The true entry fee for a race is usually different than its actual entry fee. The actual entry
fee is what is listed in the book, and it includes what Ive called the Recommended Attribute
Cost (RAC). Its the cumulative cost of attribute adjustments and stands separate from what I
deem to be the true entry fee as it is entirely optional. You should still use it as a guideline
though. The true entry fee is labeled as Entry on the table.
This does not include CP modifiers from a higher or lower TL; that is a part of the true
entry fee. You should be sticking with your races TL whether you like it or not; thats why its a
disadvantage. Changing a TL from 10 to 11 is justifiable, but I still recommend that you keep
your TL where it is.
-

Advantages and Disadvantages

The names of advantages and disadvantages will always be contained in brackets. The
advantages section of the table also includes bonuses for racially learned skills, and can be
identified by the absence of brackets around it.
The Talent advantage is listed as the subcategory that it affects, despite it not saying
Talent anywhere. They too can be identified by the lack of a set of brackets.
If you cannot find a listed advantage or skill for a particular race in the book, it is
probably a Talent. (SC <number>) is a self-control roll that must roll under whatever the
number following it is.
-

Attributes

An asterisk ( * ) by the ST value denotes that the race gets a CP discount when buying
ST points due to having a Size Modifier higher than 0. Keep in mind that the negative points you
get from removing a point of ST is also discounted, e.g. if you buy ST for 9 CPs, you get 9 CPs
for selling them. There is no indication as to whether a races SM is below 0 just by looking at
the table. This is something you should check for yourself in the Sentient Species book.
Per, Will, HP and FP are based off of their respective primary attribute, and I have
accounted for that. If one or more of these secondary attributes are different than what their
primary attribute is, it means that it is recommended that you upgrade that particular secondary
attribute directly. Remember, everything attribute related is just a recommendation. You can do
whatever you like with them. Theyre here to help give you an idea of what each race is good at.
Youll be coming back to this list in later steps, so just skim it for now.

Listed by True Entry Fee, Highest to Lowest:

Race

TL

Advantages

Disadvantages

ST

DX

IQ

HT

Per

Will

HP

FP

RAC

Entry

On The Edge
(SC 6)

12

10

10

10

10

10

+10

+60

9*

11

11

11

12

+14

+56

10

10

12

12

12

10

+30

+49

[Dependency:
Moist, Daily,
only in arid or
non-moist
environments]

10

11

10

11

12

10

10

+5

+47

[Compulsive
Behavior:
Learning]

10

10

11

10

11

11

10

10

+20

+46

[Ambidexterity]
[Combat Reflexes]
Xexto

11

[Compartmentalized
Mind 1]
[Extra Arms+2]
[Claws (Blunt)]
[Compartmentalized
Mind 1]

Quermian

11
[Extra Arms+2]
[Telecommunication
(w/ Quermians)]

[Pacifism: SelfDefense Only]

[Quirk: BroadMinded]
[Quirk: Vow]

[Acute Senses 2:
Hearing and Vision]
[Sense of Duty]
Adarian

11

[Innate Attack: Long

Call, 2d dmg to FP,
stun, 3 per day]

[Indecisive]
[Stubbornness]

Business Acumen+1

[Amphibious]
[Doesnt Breathe]
[Nictitating
Membrane 1]
Mon
Calamari

11
[Peripheral Vision]
[Pressure Support]
[Reputation+1]
[Speak Underwater]

[Extended Lifespan
3]
[Damage
Resistance 2]
[Night Vision+1]
Exiled
Draethos

11
[Telecommunication]
[Fit]
15 CPs worth of 1 or
more IQ-based skills

[360o Vision]
[Acute Senses 4:
Touch]

[Low Pain
Threshold]

[Charisma 2]
Vuvrian

11

[Cultural
Adaptability]
[Reputation+1]

[Gerontophobia
(SC 6)]

9*

10

11

10

11

11

10

+11

+44

10

10

10

11

10

10

11

+13

+38

[Thallassophobia]

11

10

10

10

-10

+36

[Appearance-1]

11

10

10

10

11

-20

+35

[Dispersed
Vital Parts]

10

12

10

10

10

+12

+34

[Xenophilia
(SC 12)]

[Sensitive Touch]
[Social Regard]

[Amphibious]
[Damage
Resistance 1]
[Doesnt Breathe]

Quarren

11

[Nictitating
Membrane 1]
[Night Vision+4]
[Pressure Support 2]

[Dependency:
Moist, Daily,
only in arid or
non-moist
environments]
[Quirk: Dislikes
Idealists]
[Quirk: Dislikes
Optimists]

[Speak Underwater]
Swimming at HT+1

[Acute Senses 3:
Taste and Smell]
Chadra-Fan

11

[Dark Vision]
[Discriminatory
Smell]

[Extra Arms+2]
Besalisk

11

Swimming at HT+2
Survival (Arctic) at
Per+4

[Flexibility: DoubleJointed]
Gados

11
[Perfect Balance]
Acrobatics at DX+1

[Affliction: Sound
Attack (Stun,
Deafness)]
[Penetrating Voice]
Ithorian

11
[Reputation+2]

[Pacifism: SelfDefense]

10

11

10

11

11

10

10

+30

[No Sense of
Taste or Smell]

10

10

10

10

11

10

10

10

+5

+29

10

10

10

10

10

10

-7

+29

10*

10

10

10

11

-7

+28

Expert (Ecology) at
IQ
Farming at IQ
Gardening at IQ

Chagrian

11

[Radiation
Tolerance/100]
1 Law skill at IQ

[Affliction:
Pheromones (Social
Reactions+1)]
[Appearance:
Handsome or
Beautiful]
Zeltron

11

[Chummy:
Gregarious]
[Compulsive
Behavior]
[Gluttony
(SC 12)]

[Charisma 2]
[Empathy]
[Reputation+2]

[Lecherous
(SC 12)]
[Pacifism (SelfDefense)]

[High Metabolism]
Smooth Operator+1

[Appearance:
Attractive]
Ayrou

11

[Reputation+1]
[Flexibility: DoubleJointed]
[Rapier Wit]
Fast Talk at IQ+1

[Curious]

[Acute Senses 4:
Taste and Smell]
[Damage
Resistance 1]
Baragwin

11

[Discriminatory
Smell]

[Ham-Fisted]

10

11

11

11

11

10

11

+10

+27

[Bad Sight:
Nearsighted]

10

13

14

13

+35

+27

[Pacifism: Total
Nonviolence]

10

12

12

12

+20

+26

10

11

10

10

10

10

10

+15

+26

1 Mechanic skill at
IQ
Engineer (Small
Arms) at IQ-1

[Acute Senses 1:
Taste and Smell]
[Doesnt Sleep]
Bith

11

[Fearlessness+5]
[Microscopic
Vision+3]
[High Manual
Dexterity+1]

[Reputation+1]
[Racial Memory:
Active]
Caamasi

11

[Eidetic Memory]
1 Artist skill at IQ
Diplomacy at IQ-1

[Reputation+5:
Power Groups]

Dashade

11

[Radiation
Tolerance/2]

[Reputation-5:
Commoners]
[Overconfident]

[Force Static:
Resistible]
[Heat Dissipation+1]

[Claim to Hospitality:
Togruta]

Togruta

[Scanning Sense:
Sonar]

[Reputation:
Poisonous]

[Striker: Horns]

[Quirk:
Attentive]

11

10

11

10

11

11

10

+20

+25

[Reputation-2]

11*

10

10

11

10

10

11

11

+19

+24

[Truthfulness]

11

10

11

11

10

-10

+19

10

10

10

10

10

10

-20

+18

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

+18

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

-5

+18

[Teeth: Sharp]
Stealth at DX+1

[Unaging]
[Night Vision+2]
Feeorin

11
[Fit: Very Fit]
[Less Sleep]

[Claws: Sharp]
Drall

10
Science! at IQ

[Voice]

Bimm

11

Merchant at IQ+2
OR
Literature at IQ, and
Public Speaking at
IQ+1

[Intolerance-1:
Other Species]
[Amphibious]
[Claws: Sharp,
Deadly Venom]
Selkath

11

[Doesnt Breathe]
[Pressure Support 2]
[Speak Underwater]

[Vow: Never
use claws to
attack]
[Vulnerability:
Sonic Wailing,
x2FP, Willcheck at 0FP
or go insane]
[Quirk: Likes
Neutrality]

[Charisma 1]
Twilek

11

[Night Vision+1]
[Resistant: Disease]

[Quirk: Careful]

[Wealthy]
Anomid

12

10 CPs across 2
Mechanic skills at a
50% discount

[Cannot Speak:
Mute]
9

10

10

-50

+17

10

11

10

10

10

+17

11

10

10

10

10

11

10

-10

+17

10

10

11

10

11

11

10

10

+10

+15

10

11

10

11

12

10

+13

+15

10

11

10

10

10

+5

+9

10

10

10

10

11

10

10

+9

[Pacifism: SelfDefense]

1 Engineer at IQ+5
[Flexibility: DoubleJointed]
Blood
Carver

11

[Reputation-2:
Wealthy]

[Claws: Sharp]
Stealth at DX

[Berserk
(SC 12)]

Trandoshan

11

[Claws: Sharp]

[Bloodlust]

[Damage
Resistance 1]

[Cold-Blooded]

[Regrowth]

[Intolerance-3:
Wookiees]

Survival (Desert) at
Per

[Selfish
(SC 12)]

Tracking at Per

[Short
Lifespan 1]
[Quirk: Likes
Hunting]

Advozsec

Neimoidian

11

[Dark Vision]

[Pessimism]

[Fashion Sense]

[Cowardice]

[Higher Purpose]

[Fearfulness-1]

[Wealthy]

[Greed]

Business Acumen+1

[Reputation-1]

11

[Acute Hearing 4:
Hearing]
Balosar

11

[Appearance-2:
Unattractive]

[Resistant: Poison]

[Combat Reflexes]
[Bad Smell]
[Enhanced
Tracking+1]
Rodian

11
[High Manual
Dexterity+1]
Tracking at Per

[Obsession:
Violence]
[Reputation-2]

Arkanian

[Wealth:
Comfortable]

[Reputation-1]

[Claws: Blunt]

[Overconfident]

11

10

11

11

11

11

10

11

+10

+3

10

10

10

10

10

10

-10

+3

10

10

10

10

10

10

-10

+2

10*

10

11

10

11

11

10

+18

11

10

10

10

10

10

11

10

+10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

12*

12

12

12

13

15

12

+27

-1

Navigation
(Hyperspace) at IQ
Duros

11
Piloting (Low or
High-Performance
Spacecraft) at DX-1

[Charisma+2]

Caarite

Acting at IQ

[Reputation-2]

Merchant at IQ+1

[Selfish]

10

Survival (Jungle) at
Per-1

[Protected Sense:
Vision]
Adnerem

11

[High Manual
Dexterity+1]

[Fanaticism:
Steris]
[Uncongenial]

[Subsonic Hearing]

[Bad Temper]
Aqualish
Quara

[Amphibious]
12

[Bully]
[Doesnt Breathe]
[Reputation-2]

Human

Youre a boring
old human.
Congratz.

11

[Cold-Blooded]
[Reduced
Consumption 2:
Cast Iron Stomach]

[Gluttony]

[Damage
Resistance 1]

[Intolerance-1]

[Greed]

[No Legs]
Hutt

11

[Extended
Lifespan 3]

[Overconfident]

[Longevity]

[Sense of Duty]

[Force Static:
Resistible]

[Vow: Never kill

a messenger
from another
Hutt]

Cathar

11

[Acute Senses 2/1:

Hearing/Taste and
Smell]

[Impulsiveness]

[Catfall]

[Berserk]

[Claws:Sharp]

[Sleepy /2]

11

11

10

11

10

+10

-2

11

10

11

10

11

10

-5

-4

10

10

10

11

10

12

10

12

+23

-4

10

11

10

10

10

10

+10

-5

10

10

10

10

10

-20

-7

10

11

11

10

10

11

-10

[Teeth: Sharp]

[Damage
Reduction 1]
[Reputation+1:
Criminals]
Chevin

10
[Extended
Lifespan+1]

[Reputation-1:
Non-Criminals]
[Code of
Honor:
Professional]

Merchant (Illegal
Goods) at IQ

Zabrak

11

Survival (Acid
Wasteland) at Per

[Overconfident
(SC 12)]
[Quirk:
Attentive]

Diplomacy at IQ

Bothan

11

Electronics
Operation
(Communication) at
IQ

[Reputation-2]
[Easy to Read]

Intelligence Analysis
at IQ-1
Surveillance at IQ

Gran

11

[Infravision]

[Pacifism: SelfDefense]

Beam Weapon
(Pistol) at DX+2

Klatooinian

11

Beam Weapon
(Rifle) at DX+2
12 CPs across any
amount of Melee
Weapon (Vibro)
skills at a 50%
discount

[Social Stigma:
Subjugated by
Hutts]
[Code of
Honor]

[Teeth: Sharp]
Devaronian

11

[Compulsive
Behavior:
Wanderlust]

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

-11

11

11

10

11

11

10

+30

-12

10

10

11

10

11

12

10

10

+25

-13

11

10

11

11

11

-14

10

11

10

10

10

10

+10

-15

10

10

11

10

11

-30

-16

[Striker: Horns]
[Increased
Consumption]

Jenet

[Eidetic Memory]

[Illiteracy]

[Night Vision+1]

[Odious Racial
Habit: Tactless]

11
Climbing at DX+1

[Reaction-2]
Swimming at HT

[Damage
Resistance 2: Torso]
[Extra Legs+4]
Krevaaki

11

[Flexibility]

[Appearance:
Hideous]
[Pacifism: SelfDefense]

[Longevity]
[Selfless]
Hidden Lore (Jedi)
at IQ-1

[Chameleon+2]

Brubb

[Damage
Resistance 2]

[Hard of
Hearing]
[Cold-Blooded]

[Enhanced
Defenses: Dodge+1]

[Gregarious
(SC 12)]

Sullustan

11

[Absolute Direction:
3D Spatial Sense]

[Curious
(SC 6)]

[Acute Senses 2:
Hearing]

[Pacifism:
Reluctant
Killer]

[Night Vision+5]
Climbing at DX+1

[Xenophilia
(SC 12)]
[Quirk: Likes
Practical
Jokes]

[Damage
Resistance 1]
Vodran

11
Survival (Jungle) at
Per

[Social Stigma:
Subjugated by
Hutts]

[Cowardice]

Jawa

[Night Vision+1]

[Illiteracy]

Scrounging at Per+2

[Odious Racial
Habits: Odor]

10

11

10

10

10

10

-5

-28

12

10

10

12

11

-38

-30

10

10

10

11

10

10

10

11

+10

-32

12*

10

10

10

12

10

-7

-42

10

11

11

11

11

10

+30

-151

[Reputation-1]

[Dark Vision]
[Combat Reflexes]

Gamorrean

[Short
Lifespan 1]

[Damage
Resistance 2]

[Bloodlust]

[Striker: Horns]

[Reputation-4]

[Striker: Tusks]

[Intolerance-5:
Ranged
Weapons and
Droids]

Brawling at DX+2
Melee Weapon
(Gammorean) at
DX+2

[Acute Senses 2:
Hearing, Taste and
Smell]
Arcona

[Bad Sight:
Near Sighted)]

11
[Claws: Talons]

[Addiction:
Salt]

[Damage
Resistance 1]
[Berserk
(SC 6)]
[Brachiator]

[Cannot Speak:
Basic]

[Claws: Sharp]
[Damage
Resistance 1]
Wookiee

11

[Extended
Lifespan 2]

[Code of
Honor: Family]
[Intolerance-3:
Trandoshans]

[Rapid Healing]

[Sense of Duty:
Life Debt]

[Social Regard+1]

[Social Stigma]
[Vow: Dont
use claws in
combat]

Kel Dor

11

Mechanic (Breath
Masks and Goggles)
at IQ

[Code of
Honor]
[Dependency:
Breath Mask]

STEP TWO:
KNOW YOUR
CHARACTER SHEET
This will just be a quick run-through of the roll20 interface for GURPS. The example
pictures Ill be including are from my own completed character sheet, so your values will be
different.
Youll find your character sheet in the Journal tab of the roll20 sidebar.

Main Tab

This first tab is where all of your attributes are recorded. All of the entry boxes have
special qualities that vary based on their color.
I dont fully know how to utilize the weapon or armor sections (the green and blue
boxes), so I wont be covering them in this chapter. If I do end up figuring it out, Ill put it in
STEP 7.
Dont worry about filling this page out right now, youll decide what you want to put in
here at STEP 5. For now, just try to understand the layout.

Gray Boxes (Generic)

There are two different kinds of these boxes: light and dark.
A light box is for entering a base value of some sort, like for attribute scores. As a rule,
these boxes contain completely unmodified attributes that can only change with the use of CPs.
Theyre also used to enter descriptions for things.

A dark box is similar, but it does not necessarily contain just the base value all of the
time. It is used for stats or attributes that have base values but also have other factors that can
influence them, such as advantages, disadvantages, or equipment. They also are used to track
non-character related values in the other tabs.

Yellow Boxes (Dynamic)

A yellow box contains a value that will get changed a lot. These will be used to keep
track of things like current hitpoints and defense ratings. The values they keep track of will never
have a base value that is completely their own.

Purple Boxes (Reactive)

These boxes are unique in that you cannot directly enter a value for them. They only
contain values that are dependent on other values, like your marker for half-HP. All these boxes
do is apply a set formula to a value from another box and display the result.

The two exceptions to this are the Combat and Full Load Dodge rating boxes, as the
formulas that govern their values can change depending on which of their bubbles is filled in.
This is the only application of bubbles.

Beige Boxes (Dropdown)

Clicking on one of these boxes will show a dropdown list of all of the options that can be
put in that box. By clicking an option on the list, it sets that as the selection for the box. This
value is usually then called upon by another formula executed by a purple or black box.

Black Boxes (Interactive)

Clicking on any black box will perform some kind of action. Usually the black boxes will
perform a check for you, but the Maneuver box declares your next combat maneuver in the chat
depending on what you filled the beige and gray boxes around it with. If I wanted to do an All
Out Defense (Dodge) maneuver with an Acrobatic Dodge while Retreating, then I would fill
everything out like so:

And when I click it, this will appear in the chat:

I dont think it matters what you put in the boxes that arent for base maneuvers or
maneuver options. I could be wrong, but as far as I can tell the Maneuver button only displays
whats in those.

Skills Tab

Now that you understand how the boxes work, try to get a grasp of how your skills are
going to be laid out. You arent going to be deciding on these now either; thats also in STEP 5.
What youll be doing with this right now is figuring out how to add skills to your list.

My character sheet has a bunch of stuff already on it, but yours is going to look more like
the way my Techniques look. You wont have anything there, so to add a new line for a skill, you
just click the +Add button and one will pop right up.
Take a look at all of the boxes. The only one you shouldnt recognize is the one labeled
CP. Youll never have to worry about this since it doesnt really do anything other than remind
you to do something with it later. If you mouse over it, a help bubble with show up:

To remove a line, hit the Modify button at the bottom right of the Skills section. All of the
lines will then be grayed out and a red button with a trashcan will appear on each line. Click the
red button of the line you want removed and itll disappear. To go back to editing your lines,
press the Done button where the Modify button used to be.
The section labeled Ref. is where youll be putting page references to the skill in
question. This is helpful for finding it in the book again later, but Im going to include that sort of
thing later in this guide so that you dont need to worry about it. Its more convenient if you do it
yourself though.
Thats all you need to know about how to operate this tab for now. Youll learn how to fill
it out in STEP 5.

Traits Tab

This layout is the same as the one for skills, except there are no fancy boxes.

In this tab, you just add lines and page references. Dont worry; you dont need to put
down this much stuff. Even though it looks like I put down the entire description (which I did) for
every advantage and disadvantage, I spread that out over multiple lines to make it easier to
read. It doesnt do that automatically; the line just keeps on going on and on and on if you dont
stop adding to it.
If you want a more concise layout, you should summarize your advantages and
disadvantages in as few words as possible. I find the exact wording more helpful, but thats just
personal preference. Make sure you include all of the vital information like the CP cost and
such.
The next step, STEP 3, will contain further instructions on how to use this layout
effectively. Theres not much to do here.

Inventory and Powers Tabs

I dont know how items are going to work in this until we actually start the campaign. Im
also pretty sure that Powers wont be a thing in this unless youre a Force user. Im not a Force
user, so it doesnt concern me. Thats something youve to figure out on your own.

Various Tab

This part is useful, but not really required. The CP tracker is all you will need this for.

I highly advise that you use the Quick Notes feature of this tab to keep track of your CP
expenditures. Log everything that you take and note the cost of it. Go through it and make sure
everything adds up to +75 CPs before you finish making your character.
Something else thats really cool about this tab is the way it uses languages. If you click
the interactive box by any of your known languages, a prompt will appear. You can then type
whatever you want to say in that language into it. Press Submit and it will appear in the chat:

STEP THREE:
TAKE ADVANTAGES
Hopefully, you already have somewhat of an idea about what you wanted your character
to be like. If you still dont, thats fine; maybe looking through the available advantages will help.
You only really need to have an idea of what your character is going to be like by the time you
get to STEP 5.
By reading through the selection of races, youve probably got an idea of what
advantages are. Theyre traits that, to say the least, improve your character or otherwise give
them the upper hand over others who do not have this trait. Advantages are always a good
thing!
They really define who and what your character is. Coming up with a reason as to why
theyre like they are falls into your hands when you pick the advantage. You have to justify your
advantage within your backstory. You dont just wake up one morning and suddenly have
Combat Reflexes! Picking a lot of advantages means you have to have a very colorful
background and usually a bunch of CPs to purchase them all, too.
Advantages that demand lots of CPs are considered more powerful than cheaper ones.
Theyre also considered less realistic. If your advantage is ridiculous, you would need a very
good reason to have it. You might even have to base your entire backstory off of it.
Some advantages are also completely unreasonable for this campaign, so Justins might
forbid it entirely. One that I know hed ban for sure would be Jumper, which lets you travel
through time and space to any point of your choosing as often as you like, and you can do it at
will, without any devices or cost outside of what it initially costs to purchase the advantage.
Despite the cost of 100 CPs, theres no way you can justify an ability that powerful within the
limitations of the Star Wars universe.
However, any advantages given to you on the basis of race are always possible within
the Star Wars universe. You would still have to justify it somewhat with your backstory, but you
wouldnt have to try as hard to incorporate it as you would have to do for a learned advantage.
Many advantages are labeled as being superhuman, so if youre a human, you just cant have
them. Many advantages are exclusive to particular races (e.g. Extra Arms, Amphibious,
Regrowth, etc.) so it would be completely unjustifiable for anyone who didnt naturally have it,
including non-humans, to just develop it over time. You can try though!

ADVANTAGE TABLES

There are four tables spread across the next few pages that list all of the advantages
that could both be learned by any one particular race (within reason) and that are also viable
for this campaign. There are even more advantages in the Basic Set Rulebook that are not
listed here if youd like to try to find other stuff that might work for this campaign.
After character creation, you may only spend points on advantages marked with
asterisks. If marked with two asterisks, the advantage requires some sort of special condition to
be met (e.g. finding a teacher) before it can be learned post-character creation.
If youre still in character creation, you can pick any advantages you want from this first
section of lists regardless of whether they have asterisks. You will still have to justify any
advantage you learn non-racially in your backstory, but bolded advantages require significantly
more explanation. An explanation for a non-bolded advantage such as Combat Reflexes could
be as simple as served as a soldier, or grew up with multiple brothers. Justifying Weapon
Master, on the other hand, would have to be something as drastic as galaxy renowned
blademaster and is head-engineer of a primary vibroblade production enterprise; he watched as
both of his parents were chopped to bits in an alleyway when he was nine years old which made
him become just like Batman, but the difference was that the blade that his parents were cut
down by happened to be of his own design and he was the one that was doing the chopping.
Its still possible, but yknow.
Each table governs one particular category of advantages out of 4 possible categories:
-

Combat
Utility and Skills
Social Reactions
()*:

The tables will be presented in that order for both of the sections. The advantages
themselves are listed from most expensive to least expensive. The table the list is on will also
say if a particular race comes pre-packaged with it.
-

Table 1: Combat Advantages

Name

Weapon Master**

Description
When performing an attack with a specific
(all/large/medium/small/paired/one) class of muscle-powered
weapon(s):
add +1 per die if relevant weapon skill is at DX+1 or
+2 per die at DX+2 or higher
halve your penalty to make a Rapid Strike
halve your penalty to parry more than once per turn
use a higher default if untrained
Examples of some classes:
(large): all bladed weapons
(med) : all bladed vibro-weapons
(small): all vibro-swords
(pair) : dual-wield vibro-sword with offhand vibro-shortblade
(one) : longbladed vibro-sword

Race(s)

Page

99

CP cost

+45 all
+40 large
+35 med
+30 small
+25 pair
+20 one

Extra Attack**

You get additional Attack maneuvers per turn equal to the

level of this advantage. Any readied ranged and/or melee
weapons can be used in combination. The amount of attacks
you can do is limited to the amount of readied weapons you
have during that turn. A kick can be used as an attack,
provided youve got one left to stand on too.

Gunslinger**

Treat all single shot ranged attacks (RoF 1-3) done with a 1handed weapon as if an Aim maneuver had been used prior.
2-handed ranged attacks get half of what their normal Aim
bonus is, but still get their full bonus when actually Aimed.
Bracing and any other modifications retain their benefits.

Combat Reflexes*

+1 to all active defense rolls and the Fast-Draw skill and +2 to

Fright checks. You do not freeze when surprised and get +6
on all IQ rolls to wake up or recover from mental stuns. Your
entire party gets a +1 on initiative +2 if you are considered
the leader.

Enhanced
Defenses**

Fit*

Rodian

(Enhanced Dodge**): +1 Dodge.

(Enhanced Parry**): +1 Parry for all melee skills OR for one
melee skill.
(Enhanced Block**): +1 Block for either Shield or Cloak.

(Fit*): +1 to all HT rolls that arent skills or the HT check itself,

which includes avoiding death, stay conscious, etc. You also
recover FP at twice the normal rate.

Draethos Exile
(Fit)

(Very Fit*): As above, but the bonus to HT rolls is +2. In

addition, you lose FP at only half the normal rate.

Feeorin
(Very Fit)

53

+25 per lv

58

+25

43

+15

51

+15 for
Dodge
+10 for all
Parry
+5 for one
Parry or
Block

55

+15 for
Very Fit
+5 for Fit

High Pain
Threshold**

You never suffer a shock penalty when injured. You also get
+3 on HT rolls to avoid knockdown or stunning. If you are
tortured physically, you get a +3 to resist. You may also get to
roll against your Will+3 to ignore pain in other situations.

Arm ST*

You can dedicate CPs to extra ST for purely arm-related

uses; it does not affect HP or Basic Lift. If a task requires you
to use multiple arms and they dont all have the same ST, use
the average. Arm tasks include making melee and throwing
attacks. Discounts for Size Modifiers can be used.

40

Ambidexterity

You never suffer the -4 DX penalty for using the off-hand.

39

+5

79

+5

Rapier Wit**

You can use witty repartee to stun your foes in combat. Roll
Public Speaking vs your opponents Will. -1 per opponent
beyond the first to affect a group (you must know something
the entire group has in common so you can taunt them with
it!). If you win, your opponent is mentally stunned. A critical
success causes 1 HP damage (drops something on their foot,
bring their head up suddenly and hit something, etc.). If you
lose, theres no effect. Crit failures are for the GM to decide!

59

Ayrou

+10

+8 for 3
arms
+5 for 2
arms
+3 for 1
arm

Hard to Kill*

Hard to Subdue*

Each level of this advantage gives +1 to HT rolls made for

survival at -1xHP or below and on any roll where failure
means instant death (poison, etc.). If this bonus means the
difference between success and failure, you collapse,
apparently dead, but come to in the usual amount of time. A
successful Diagnosis roll reveals the truth. This can fool your
enemy into thinking youre actually dead... but your allies
might not be able to tell either!

Each level of this advantage gives a +1 to any HT roll to

avoid unconsciousness whether as a result of injury, drugs,
or stun guns and to resist Force abilities that cause
unconsciousness.

58

+2 per lv

59

+2 per lv

Page

CP cost

Table 2: Utility and Skills

Name

Race(s)

Description
You are an inventor; its easy for you to design cool gadgets
even at TL levels higher than your own. You need money
and equipment to do your work, and it might take several
days or months to put what you want together. To make a
concept, describe it to the GM and he will tell you what skill
you have to roll against (you must be trained in it to have any
success). Next, the GM will arbitrarily assign a complexity
level of the invention. Use the following table for inspiration:
Complexity

Gadgeteer**

Req. Skill Level

Time (min

Price (in

1 day)

credits)

Simple
14 or less
1d-2, day Up to 225
Average
15-17
2d, day
Up to 2,250
Complex
18-20
1d, mon.
Up to 22,500
Amazing
21+
3d, mon.
22,500+
Now the GM will make a concept roll against the skill
chosen earlier. Theres no penalty if its simple, but you have
a -2 penalty if its average, -4 if complex, or -8 if its amazing.
+5 if you have a working model youre trying to copy, or +2 if
it exists but you dont have it with you. +1 to +5 if the item is a
variant on an existing one. You can attempt to make
inventions of a higher TL at a -5 penalty per level above your
own, and the price also doubles per level. If you fail, nothing
happens and you may try again the next day with no
additional penalty. Success means you go to the next step.
Critical failure means you go to the next step and will fail on
every attempt until you get a critical success, at which point
you may make the concept roll again.
If you made it to the next step you must pay the appropriate
costs, then the GM secretly makes another roll against your
previously mentioned skill with the same modifiers, but at a 1 to -10 if he believes youre using anything less than the
best tools available to make the prototype. If you fail, divide
the cost by 10 and pay that in order to attempt the roll again.
Critical failure inflicts 2d damage and the next attempt is at
full price. If you succeed, congratulations!
(Quick Gadgeteer): Scrounged parts, not money; concept
takes 1d mins; simple gadget is 2d minutes of assembly,
average is 1d-2 hours, complex 1d hours, amazing 4d hours.

+50 for
Quick
475,
57

+25 for
normal

Arm DX*

Daredevil

Empathy

You can dedicate CPs to extra DX for purely arm-related

uses; it does not affect Basic Speed. If a task requires you to
use multiple arms and they dont all have the same DX, use
the lowest. Arm tasks include using firearms while remaining
stationary along with anything requiring fine manipulation.
Combat or DX based skills that require moving the body do
not benefit from this.

40

Any time you take an unnecessary risk (in the GMs opinion),
you get a +1 to all skill rolls. Furthermore, you may reroll any
critical failure that occurs during such high risk behavior. For
example, this advantage would not grant any bonuses if you
ducked behind a wall to take cover from gunfire, but it would
if you barreled over the wall screaming at the top of your
lungs as you charged the gunmen with your fists!

47

(Sensitive): When you first meet someone, or are reunited

after an absence, you may ask the GM to roll against your
IQ-3. He will tell you what you feel about that person. If you
failed, you will have misread the person, but you wont know
that. +1 to Detect Lies and Psychology.

+16 for
two arms
+12 for
one arm

+15

+15 for
Empathy
Zeltron
(Empathy)

51
+5 for
Sensitive

(Empathy): As above, but +3 bonuses to Detect Lies and

Psychology instead of +1. Roll at full IQ instead of at -3.

Flexibility

(Flexibility): +3 on Climbing, Escape (to escape bindings),

and Erotic Art. You may ignore -3 in penalties for working in
close-quarters (e.g. fighting someone in the same space as
you).
(Double-Jointed): As above, but +5 to those skills. You
ignore -5 in penalties for close-quarters.

Ayrou
(DoubleJointed)
Blood Carver
(DoubleJointed)

+15 for
DoubleJointed
56
+5 for
Flexibility

Gados
(DoubleJointed, no
Erotic Art)

A level in any of the following (there are more in the book)

grants +1 to every skill that it governs:
(Business Acumen**): Accounting, Administration,
Economics, Finance, Gambling, Market Analysis, Merchant
and Propaganda; reaction bonus from people you deal with.
(Healer**): Diagnosis, Esoteric Medicine, First Aid,
Pharmacy, Physician, Physiology, Psychology, Surgery and
Veterinary; reaction bonus from patients, past and present.
Talent**
(Mathematical Ability**): Accounting, Astronomy,
Cryptography, Engineer, Finance, Market Analysis,
Mathematics and Physics; reaction bonus from engineers
and scientists.
(Smooth Operator**): Acting, Carousing, Detect Lies,
Diplomacy, Fast-Talk, Intimidation, Leadership, Panhandling,
Politics, Public Speaking, Savoir-Faire, Sex Appeal and
Streetwise; reaction bonus from con artists, politicians, etc. -but only if you are not trying to manipulate them.

Adarian
(Business
Acumen+1)
Neimoidian
(Business
Acumen+1)
Zeltron
(Smooth
Operator+1)

+15 for
Smooth
Operator

89-91

+10 for
groups of
7-12 skills
+5 for
groups of
6 or lower

Absolute
Direction*

(Absolute Direction*): You always know which way is north

and you can always retrace a path you followed within the
past month, no matter how faint or confusing. This doesnt
work in interstellar space, but it does work underground,
underwater, and on other planets. +3 to Body Sense and
Navigation (Air, Land or Sea).

Sullustan (3D
Spatial Sense)

+10 for
3D Spatial
Sense
34
+5 for
Absolute
Direction

(3D Spatial Sense**): As above, but works in three

dimensions. This ability is useful in deep space. In addition to
the bonus from above, you get +1 Piloting and +2 to
Aerobatics, Free Fall, and Navigation (Hyperspace or Space)

(Eidetic Memory): You automatically remember the general

sense of everything you concentrate on, and can recall
specific details by making an IQ roll. However, it gives a +5
bonus whenever the GM requires an IQ roll for learning.
Eidetic Memory

Voice*

(Photographic Memory): As above, but you automatically

recall specific details, too. Any time you, the player forget a
detail your character has seen, the GM or other players must
remind you truthfully! This trait affects recall, not
comprehension, so it does not benefit skills. +10 bonus for
learning.

You have a naturally clear, resonant, and attractive voice. +2

Diplomacy, Fast-Talk, Mimicry, Performance, Politics, Public
Speaking, Sex Appeal, Singing, and on reaction rolls from
anyone who can hear your voice.

Brachiator*

You can travel by swinging on vines, tree branches, ropes,

chandeliers, etc. You can move at half your Basic Move while
brachiating. +2 Climbing

High Manual
Dexterity

Each level (max 4) of this advantage gives +1 to DX for tasks

that require fine, delicate touch. This includes all DX-based
rolls against Artist, Jeweler, Knot-Tying, Leatherworking,
Lockpicking, Pickpocket, Sewing, Sleight of Hand, Surgery,
as well as DX-based rolls to do fine work on Machinist or
Mechanic (e.g. clockwork). This doesnt apply to IQ-based
tasks or large scale DX-based tasks, nor does it apply to
combat related die rolls of any kind.

Lightning
Calculator

(Lightning Calculator): You, the player, may use a calculator

at any time to figure anything you want even if your
character is fleeing for his life! For most math-related things
that could be solved using a calculator, the GM will assume
that your character instantly knows the answer.

+10 for
Photographic
Memory

Caamasi
(Eidetic
Memory)
51
Jenet (Eidetic
Memory)

+5 for
Eidetic
Memory

Bimm

97

+10

Wookiee

41

+5

59

+5 per lv

66

+5 for
Intuitive
Mathematician

Adnerem (+1)
Bith (+1)
Rodian (+1)

(Intuitive Mathematician): As above, but your ability is not

limited to arithmetic. You can perform astrogation without a
computer, do any level of engineering design in your head,
and solve differential equations almost instantaneously.

Single-Minded*

+3 to skill rolls that you concentrate on to the exclusion of

other activities, if the GM believes that concentration would
help. If it already would have required your undivided
attention (e.g. inventing), this provides no benefit.

+2 for
Lightning
Calculator

85

+5

Versatile*

You get a +1 bonus on any task that requires creativity or

invention, including most rolls against Artist skills, all
Engineer rolls for new inventions, and all skill rolls made to
use the Gadgeteer advantage.

96

+5

35

+2 per lv

55

+2 per lv

71

+2 per lv

Adarian
(Hearing+2,
Vision+2)

Each acute sense is a separate advantage that gives +1 per

level to its respective Sense roll:
(Hearing):
You are more capable of hearing faint sounds, such as the
safety of a gun being switched off in the dark.

Acute Senses

(Taste & Smell):

You are more capable of recognizing subtle tastes or smells,
such as poison in your drink.
(Touch):
You can get more precise information by touch, such as
being able to tell if youre being pickpocketed.
(Vision):
You have a sharper eye for very fine details, such as looking
for traps or noticing a flawed replica.

Arcona
(Hearing+2,
Taste &
Smell+2)
Balosar
(Hearing+4)
Baragwin
(Taste &
Smell+4)
Bith (Taste &
Smell+1)
Cathar
(Hearing+2,
Taste &
Smell+1)
Chadra-Fan
(Taste &
Smell+3)
Sullustan
(Hearing+2)
Vuvrian
(Touch+4)

Fearlessness**

Add your level of this advantage to your Will any time you
must make a Fright check. Subtract your level of this
advantage from Intimidation rolls made against you.

Bith (+5)

Exiled
Draethos (+1)
Quarren (+4)

Night Vision*

Each level of this advantage (max 9) allows you to ignore -1

in combat or vision penalties due to darkness, provided there
is at least some light. Regardless of level, this advantage has
no effect on the -10 penalty for total darkness.

Feeorin (+2)
Twilek (+1)
Jenet (+1)
Sullustan (+5)
Jawa (+1)

Section 1, Table 3: Social Reactions

Having above average appearance is an advantage. Below
average would be a disadvantage. For these bonuses to
have any effect, you must be visible.

+16 for
Very

(Somewhat Attractive): +1 on reaction rolls.

Appearance

(Quite Attractive): +4 for people attracted to your sex, +2 on

reactions otherwise.

Ayrou
(Somewhat)

21

Zeltron (Quite)

+12 for
Quite
+4 for

(Very Attractive): +6 for people attracted to your sex, +2

otherwise. For those not attracted to your sex that also have
reason to dislike you, they resent your good looks and react
at -2 instead.

Somewhat

Claim to
Hospitality

You belong to a social group that encourages its members to

assist one another. When you are away from home, you may
call on other members of this group for food, shelter, and
basic aid. Members of the group are friendly to each other
(+3 reactions) and may provide advice, introductions, and
small loans, if asked.

41

+1-10,
depends
on how
big the
group is

Charisma*

Per level of this advantage, you get +1 on all reaction rolls

made by sapient beings with whom you actively interact; +1
to Influence rolls; and +1 to Leadership, Panhandling, and
Public Speaking skills. This may not affect those with vastly
different social understanding than yours (e.g. Vratix).

41

+5 per lv

21

+5

22

+5

86

+5

Fashion Sense**

You get +1 to reaction rolls when you have a chance to plan

your attire in advance. You can also give someone else a +1
bonus when you put together the outfit.

Pitiable

You get +3 on all reaction rolls from those who consider you
to be in a position of helplessness, weakness, or need. This
does not affect those with the Callous disadvantage.

Social Chameleon

You are exempt from reaction penalties due to differences in

Rank or Status. In situations where there would be no such
penalty, you get +1 on reactions from those who demand
respect (priests, kings, etc.).

Togruta (+10)

Twilek (+1)
Vuvrian (+2)
Zeltron (+2)

Neimoidian

Section 1, Table 4: ()*:

Signature Gear

You have distinctive, valuable possessions unrelated to your

wealth level. This gear is as much a part of your personal
legend as are your reputation and skills. You must explain
where it came from: you won your starship in a card game,
inherited your droid from your father, etc. The more powerful
it is, the more points its worth and the more ridiculous your
explanation should be.

+???
85
GM
decides

You can function under a wider range of gravities. Without

this advantage, your G-Increment is every 0.2 difference in
gravity magnitude: if your home gravity is 1.0G then your
tolerance is 0.8G to 1.2G, at which point you would gain a GIncrement. You can increase this 0.2 difference by putting
points in this advantage, thereby widening your tolerance
threshold. This comes in several levels:

Improved GTolerance*

(10.0G difference)
(5.0G difference)
(1.0G difference)
(0.5G difference**)
(0.3G difference*)

+25 for
10.0G
+20 for
5.0G

60

+15 for
1.0G
+10 for
0.5G

A -1 penalty applies to IQ and HT for every two G-Increments

higher your environment is as compared to your home
gravity. A -1 to DX applies for every two G-Increment
difference, but this does not apply to DX-based skills that
have only manual components (Lockpicking, etc.) and do not
have anything to do with judging ballistic trajectories (i.e.
Beam Weapons is not affected, but Melee Weapons and
Guns would be). It affects everything else, such as
Acrobatics, normally.

+5 for
0.3G

I have a bad feeling about this.

Danger Sense

Indomitable

If you have this advantage, the GM rolls once against your

Per, secretly, in any situation involving an ambush,
impending disaster, or similar hazard. On a success, your
character knows that somethings up but has no idea what
the actual problem is, and wont be able to provide any detail
as to whats wrong to the party; but you at least get enough of
a warning that you can take action. On a critical success, you
can get a very minor clue. Make sure you save the game if
this happens.

You are impossible to influence through ordinary words or

actions. Those who wish to use Influence skills on you must
possess the Empathy advantage. Everyone else however
convincing fails automatically.

47

+15

60

+15

43

+10

Any time you start to do something that the GM feels is

Common Sense**

STUPID
he will roll against your IQ. A successful roll means he must
warn you: Hadnt you better think about that? The GM may
decide that you have this advantage at any point if your
character is being jeopardized by you, the player.

G-Experience*

You suffer only half the DX penalty for different gravity. In

situations where low gravity would make a task easier, you
roll at full DX, plus the bonus for low gravity, plus an extra +1.
For instance, if a normal person would get +2 to catch a ball
in low gravity, you would get +3.

+10 for all

gravities
57
+1 for one
field of
gravity

Less Sleep*

Each level of this advantage reduces the amount of sleep you

need by one hour, down to 4 hours per night.

Feeorin (+1)

65

+2 per lv

(Reduced Consumption 1*): You require 2/3 as much food

and water.
(Reduced Consumption 2): You require 1/3 as much food and
water.
(Reduced Consumption 3): You require 1/20 as much food
and water.
Reduced
Consumption**

(Reduced Consumption 4): You require 1/100 as much food

and water.

+2 per lv
for normal
Hutt (Cast-Iron
Stomach 2)

80
+1 per lv
for CastIron

(Cast-Iron Stomach 1*): You only require your food to be 2/3

of the standard quality. +1 to resist food-borne poisons and
diseases. -3 on reactions from anyone watching you eat.
(Cast-Iron Stomach 2): As above. 1/3 quality. +2 to resist.
(Cast-Iron Stomach 3): As above. 1/20 quality. +3 to resist.
(Cast-Iron Stomach 4): As above. 1/100 quality. +4 to resist.

Temperature
Tolerance*

Each level of this advantage adds your HT to your comfort

zone width. For example, a normal human the zone width is
55o wide and falls between 35o and 90o, though for
nonhumans this range can start and end anywhere as long
as the width is 55o. This extension can be distributed in any
way you wish between the high and low ends of the zone.

93

+1 per lv

The advantages not listed here are in the Basic Set Rulebook. Many of the advantages for each
race listed in STEP 1 are not listed in this guide, so you will need to look there to find those. I was going
to at least list all of them, but for the sake of time in getting this finished I will not be bothering with it.

STEP FOUR:
TAKE DISADVANTAGES
These are my favorite part of the game. Unfortunately, I cant go into too much depth
about them due to time constraints. There are so many viable disadvantages you can take in
this campaign that it would be a painstaking effort to try to list, categorize, and summarize every
single one of them. You would be much better off looking through the book yourself and picking
ones that you like.
Whats so cool about disadvantages, you ask? Because they make you stronger, albeit
indirectly. The total CP pool that you are trying to meet for character creation can be lowered by
taking disadvantages, thus allowing you to further improve your attributes and specialties.
Say that you take 68 CPs of attributes, skill training, and advantages. Your CP limit is
75, so that means you have 7 points left to spend. If you were to take Bad Smell, a -10 CP
disadvantage, your character would smell really funky but they would also have 17 CPs to
spend instead of 7! Its a really simple concept.
Whats less simple is picking disadvantages that will be fun for you (and hopefully
everyone else too). Its tempting to take Blindness, a -50 CP disadvantage, but it would hinder
you and your party so much that it likely would end up getting you into more trouble and unfun
situations than even an extra 50 CPs would be worth. It can also be tempting to not take any
disadvantages. While this is certainly something you can do, it wouldnt be as much fun as it
would be to do otherwise. It would also mean you wouldnt get as much CPs to spend!
Disadvantages are what keep your character interesting and fun to play. Many powerful
characters from other stories have plenty of disadvantages that they have to adhere to, but they
are all very interesting as a result. If your powerful character had no disadvantages, you would
be playing a neutrally aligned first-edition bard. First-edition bards are very powerful, but overall
lack character depth since they can do pretty much anything they want. Tack that on with having
a neutral alignment, and soon youll find yourself completely unstoppable since you have
nothing that keeps you from doing things with a healthy amount of risk. Playing a character like
that might be interesting for the first couple of sessions, but at some point youll realize that no
matter how much you roll the dice, the outcome isnt affecting you. Youll get bored, to say the
least.
Other versions of D&D punish you by putting you at risk for doing anything that is
considered less than the standard. Essentially, this means that youre being punished for

wanting to be different. In GURPS, you get rewarded for trying to keep yourself from being a
generic first-edition bard through the benefits provided by taking disadvantages. It rewards you
for trying to play an interesting character. Id rather play a delusional, armless, blind, deaf,
quadriplegic, terminally-ill krayt dragon over a bard that turns himself into a fully functional
dragon on a whim. I wouldnt necessarily want to be that krayt dragon, but I would find him a
much more interesting character to play.
Find what works for you; this system is perfectly capable of fulfilling your wildest dreams
of being the most talented sentient fish tank that you could have ever hoped to be.

STEP FIVE:
CHOOSE SKILLS AND
ATTRIBUTES
There are a lot of choices to make here, and all of them are terribly confusing. I cant tell
you how to make your character correctly because thats not something I can really define for
you. What I can do, however, is tell you how to build your character efficiently.
First, you need to understand what skills are and just how much of the game they have
control over. Everything that your character does has a skill for it; there are so goddamn many
of them that I cant even begin to list them like Ive been listing everything else in this guide. You
should just assume that if you can feasibly do something, theres a skill tailored expressly for
that. There are lots of combat skills and other roguish-type skills, but there are also skills that let
your character design and engineer deadly machines or works of art; and possibly deadly works
of art. There are entire skills dedicated to all forms of politics and typewriter usages, too. Pretty
much everything is a skill.
Earlier, I described how a 3d6 system differs from a d20 system. This is very important
for skills, as more than 80% of your rolls are going to be skill checks. The bell-curve probability
chart shows you just how valuable it can be to improve your skills, but also demonstrates
diminishing returns. Ill put the corresponding table here again just for convenience:

So, what is a skill level? Its a measure of your characters competence when it comes
to whatever the particular field of skill theyre working in. Every skill has a relevant attribute that
determines the base value of the skill. The largest categories of skills fall under IQ and DX, but
the rest of the attributes govern some skills of their own as well. Essentially, your score in the
relevant base attribute is what helps or hinders how you can perform the skill before any training
is considered.
Your training in a skill comes from however many points youve spent on it in order to
raise the modifier of the skill. Each skill has a predetermined difficulty that defines where on this
table your costs begin to ramp up. The first rank of a skill always costs 1 CP, and depending
on the difficulty of the skill, the modifier will determine your skill level.

Imagine that I need to make an Acrobatics check, which is a Hard DX-based skill. If my
DX is 12 and I have 1 CP in the Acrobatics skill, my skill rank would be 1, but my skill level
would be -2. This is because the first rank of any Hard skill puts your skill level at Attribute-2, as
demonstrated by the table above. Now that I know my skill level, I apply this to the base
attribute, which would be my 12 DX: 12 minus 2 is 10, and this number is my Base Skill. In order
to succeed the check I would need to roll a 10 or lower. Some advantages and disadvantages
can indirectly affect your Base Skill by adding a bonus or a penalty to your skill level. If I had the
Perfect Balance advantage I would get a +1 to my Acrobatics skill level, thereby increasing it
from -2 to -1. As a result, my Base Skill would total to 11.
Your Base Skill is what you roll against when there are no situational modifiers applying
to it. If there is a situational modifier, then you would then roll against your Effective Skill.
Effective Skill is simply your Base Skill with the new modifier applied to it, so if Im getting a +2
bonus to my Acrobatics check because Im simply trying to do a somersault then this is a good
thing. The bonus is added to my Base Skill, and this sum results in my Effective Skill being 13
instead of the usual 11. Now I only need to roll below a 13 instead of an 11, which means my
likelihood of success jumped from 62.5% to 83.8%. If I were instead given a -2 penalty, my
Effective Skill would be 9 instead, and this lowers my success rate down to 37.5%. Remember,
the situational modifier is never applied to the actual roll you make; it only affects the target
number. A positive modifier is always a good thing.

If I wanted to get to the second skill rank, I would need to buy the first one beforehand.
This means I would have to spend 3 CPs on the skill in total in order to get to it without already
having the first one. The third skill rank would require a total of 7 CPs in the skill if I was
previously untrained in it. If I already had the first skill rank however, I would need to pay the
cost for the next one, which is 2 CPs. In the end, this means I still had to pay 3 CPs on the skill
in total anyways. What this means is that advancement to other skill ranks must be done in
order; if you had anything at rank five you mustve already dedicated at least 27 CPs to it.
27 CPs just for five ranks? In just one skill? That seems a bit overkill if you wanted a
good chance of success at a decent number of skills. However, if you wanted to have quite a
variety of skills, there are still plenty of options for you. If you wanted a lot of IQ based skills,
then it might just cost less overall to buy a point of IQ so that you can upgrade your Base Skill
for all of them at the same time. Since there are so many IQ based skills, upgrading the attribute
directly can be very worth it despite the cost of 20 CPs per point; its a better idea to spend 20
CPs on a single point of IQ to raise the Base Skill of 50+ different skills than it would be to
spend points upgrading each one separately.
However, this doesnt make training your skills entirely worthless either. If you are not
trained in a skill at all, then you must use whatever the Default Skill Rank happens to be for that
skill whenever you must make a check for it. The Default Skill Rank for any skill usually carries a
penalty around -5, which is a lot. If you plan to get a variety of skills, its worth spending just a
single CP on each one in order to get the first rank of a skill and avoid needing to use the
Default Skill Rank so that you can have a good chance to succeed in any of them.
For characters that only require a few skills, then buying ranks past the first for any given
skill can be quite worth it; especially if they all have different base attributes. In this case, it
wouldnt be worth it to buy attribute points just to upgrade skills until those skills are around rank
five or six. These kinds of characters would typically want to focus on attribute points
(particularly HT) for their many non-skill related benefits.
In reality, it comes down to what you think you want your character to do. There are a lot
of possibilities here, but Im going to try to list as many as I can and hope that at least one of
them can fit the archetype you want your character to fulfill:
-

Brainiac

This archetype fits the role of the brains of the group. It involves thinly spreading CPs
across many IQ-based skills, then pumping IQ up to a level that nearly guarantees the success
of any IQ-based skill check should the need for it arise. This path is very versatile and can easily
cover a lot of ground, but it severely lacks the ability to be competent in combat situations. This
can paint an enormous target on the Brainiacs back since they are not only an easy target, but
a valuable one too. The Pacifist disadvantage is a good choice for this kind character.
To make a Brainiac, first go through the book and find every single skill that you think will
be useful. Dont worry about your CPs just yet, just find everything that you might want. When
you think youre finished, count them up and separate them into groups based on the skills

difficulty. Your goal is to get most of these skills up to at least 13 Base Skill, and all Easy ones
must be at 14. Skills that are Very Hard could stand to be at 12, but if you have the CPs to get
them higher then you should do that. To get a Very Hard skill at rank one up to 13, you ideally
would need 16 IQ; this totals to 120 CPs for the IQ alone. To remedy this, count up all of your
Very Hard skills and bring them to rank two, and get your IQ to 15. If you still cant afford an IQ
of 15, then consider focusing less on Very Hard skills or taking a few more disadvantages. A
Brainiac should have at least 14 IQ.
To help pay for IQ, consider putting your ST and DX at 9 each. You might also consider
taking more out of DX for better results, but you also take away a few of your DX based skill
options by doing this. This isnt that big of a deal since you already encompass a very wide
variety of skills thanks to your IQ, so I recommend putting it lower if you really cannot afford to
take any more disadvantages than you have likely already taken. Going for a jack-of-all-trades
DX/IQ hybrid sort of character is very viable, but also gets extremely expensive without giving all
that much back when considering the cost.
Kevins Jawa character is a great example of a Brainiac, and is put to fantastic use
alongside the Quick Gadgeteer advantage. There are probably even more great synergies with
being a Brainiac out there, too.
-

Brawler

This archetype fits the role of the brawn of the group. It involves heavy focus on one or
two weapon skills alongside ST and HT. In some cases, a Brawler can double as the leader and
looks of the group, but this would be more befitting of a Commander (which is the archetype
after this). A Brawler is a very combat oriented kind of character, and this may not be
appropriate for the kind of campaign were doing; especially since this character is fairly meleebased.
Simply put, the way to build this kind of character would be to choose a melee weapon
skill, preferably one thats common (you can find your fists almost all of the time!), and start
pumping ST like its nobodys business. Ideally, you would want to get your ST to at least 19 but
this could be inefficient if you dont think youll be doing any heavy lifting for an extended period
of time (at this TL almost everything is pretty light). 14 or 15 ST should suffice, but also make
sure to grab several levels of the Striking ST advantage until your effective ST for melee combat
reaches 19 or so. If you plan on having something you can use to swing with on you and think
you can afford it, go for 21 effective melee ST.
You need HT. How much you think youll need is up to you; I recommend at least 14.
You need this for several reasons, but the most important one is so that you dont end up dying
within the first combat encounter. An HT of 14 also has the benefit of increasing your Basic
Speed by 1, which means youll also improve your Basic Move and Dodge. Along with this, take
Hard to Kill of level 2 or more and the Very Fit advantage (or just normal Fit if you prefer). You
are going to spend a lot of time with your HP below zero whether you like it or not, regardless of
how much HP you had initially. Youll lose a lot of FP if you are actively in hand-to-hand combat,
but Very Fit should prevent any shortage of it. High Pain Threshold is also very useful.

When considering how to get more CPs to spend, try to leave DX untouched. Youll
need this for a lot of combat related rolls. Youll also need it for your weapon skills, but youll be
bringing those up to around rank four or five since those are the only ones youll ever need; the
DX still comes in handy though. If youre going to lower a stat, take it out of IQ. I think youll find
that you have very little need for it if you play this character right.
-

Commander

This archetype fits the role of the leader and face of the group. This is a very general
concept thats open to a lot of interpretation, but the main idea is for this character to do most of
the talking. This character also needs Combat Reflexes, as it has a useful benefit for the entire
party if whoever is considered the leader has it. My recommendation is to try an overall
general build, specializing in skills as you see fit. HT is the most important attribute by far.
You dont necessarily have to be friendly or charismatic to be the leader, you just have to
be the one thats making the big decisions. This archetype could easily be combined with the
other ones listed here.
A ranged skill build with other things that increase overall survivability would mesh well
for this. Logans character definitely fills this role pretty well. So does Han Solo, but he is more
of a Scout (youll see this later).
-

Fight then Flight-er (Flighter)

This archetype is similar to the Brawlers, except it has very little to do with ST. It focuses
heavily on DX and versatile mobility options for combat. Another advantage this archetype has
over Brawler is that its a lot more useful outside of combat since all of that extra DX covers a
good amount of skills. It combines the combat prowess of a Brawler with the utility function of a
Brainiac, which makes this character a valuable asset. It doesnt entirely replace them either
however; this archetype covers no IQ based skills and has very low survivability if struck.
Unlike the Brainiac, this type of character does not have skills as their first priority.
Combat is a very important aspect of this character, and the reason why this character is so
good at it is because it doesnt need to put itself at risk. A Flighter stays out of sight and/or out of
reach, but still contributes to combat with ranged damage and positional advantage. Skills like
Acrobatics, Climbing, Jumping, and Stealth let this character get to places that would otherwise
be very dangerous to navigate to, then take advantage of this position to ambush the enemy
and cause disarray. Once seen, the Flighter takes flight and tricks the enemy into following them
to an even worse position for them since the Flighter can take advantage of its mobility options
to navigate terrain that would be impossible for someone without training to do. If they dont
follow the Flighter, then they continue to get shot at from an angle that they cant defend
against, leaving the enemy in a predicament that can only end badly for them. If the Flighter
comes under heavy fire, active defense maneuvers combined with Acrobatic Dodges allow it to
escape any pressure it comes under; it also diverts such heavy fire away from the rest of the
party. A Flighter is tricky to deal with and even trickier to play, but it can provide a lot of combat
utility to the party.

The risk a Flighter carries is that if it is struck, shock from the blow will apply a penalty to
DX that might endanger them. Being at low HP also applies penalties to Dodge and Basic
Move, which further limits their mobility. Because of this, a Flighter should avoid risk whenever it
is possible. A Flighter can respond to any danger with evasive action and can solve a conflict
without any direct head-to-head combat; usually done through indirect knife-to-back means.
To build a Flighter you need a good amount of DX, I recommend around 13. You dont
need as many points in your main attribute as some other character types since you arent as
skill oriented as a Brainiac and not a big enough target to warrant getting a bunch of survivability
attributes. The DX just provides a good baseline to start your skills from while also contributing
to your Basic Speed. Most of your utility comes from your advantages however, like Flexibility.
Many advantages that provide mobility options can only be justified by the race that you pick; a
Gados would be a perfect fit for this role. Between your advantages and your bought DX, most
of your CPs will have been used up. Spend about 15 CPs worth of whatevers left on mobility
skills and a weapon skill of your choice, preferably a middle to long ranged beam weapon. After
this, spend CPs on HT if you can afford it. Try to at least get HT to 11 so that your Basic Speed
reaches 6.
This is what my character is.
-

Jedi

I dont know what youre supposed to do, exactly. The universally recommended option
is to just pump everything into HT and then pick whatever you want. Pick skills that are
appropriate for your backstory and at least one weapon that youll have access to (i.e. not
lightsabers). I cant be of any more help, just like follow the Jedi way and be the source of
galaxy-wide suffering or something.
Figure it out.
-

Scout

This archetype fits the role of the eyes and ears of the group. In other RPGs, this would
essentially be the thief. Scouts are very reliant on IQ since a lot of skills they need (Fast-Talk,
Streetwise, and Urban Survival just to name a few) are IQ based. They require a few DX based
skills too, but not enough to warrant putting points into straight into DX; its better to just buy skill
ranks for those. This type of character is rather similar to a Brainiac except it focuses more on
guile and manipulation rather than booksmarts and craftiness.
A Scout doesnt need nearly as much IQ as a Brainiac would, but still needs a significant
amount; 13 should suffice. It would be better to have more, but you still need to have a few
points to use on HT and non-IQ-based skills. Advantages that improve social reactions would do
well for a character like this (Appearance and Voice are good ones). The Smooth Operator
talent works well, too. As far as combat goes, one ranged weapon skill and a good bit of HT
should be all you need. A good Scout wouldnt always have to resort to violence, though.
Han Solo is a great example of a Scout/Commander. A Zeltron would be the ideal Scout.

If you didnt like any of those character types, then heres some general advice on
making your character:
-

If you want lots of skills that are based off of the same attribute, it may be more cost
effective to just upgrade the attribute directly.

If you wanted around 5 or 6 different skills, it is probably a better idea to just upgrade
their ranks directly until it just becomes more cost effective to buy their attributes. If they
are mostly based off of different attributes, then you might need to upgrade their ranks a
lot before their attribute would be of any help.

Go to the actual book and read what each skill does, then go to the advantages section
and look at the Talent advantage. Each talent encompasses a wide variety of skills that
can all be bought at the same time for a cost that doesnt scale. Some of the preset
groups of skills they mention might be very cost effective for you.

When in doubt, just buy HT.

This is how your skills should be organized. For more information on how to do operate this
interface, see STEP 2.

STEP SIX:
ANALYZE YOUR
CHARACTER
Now that youve made some pointless decisions, go back to the beginning and start this
entire guide over. You are going to make your character from scratch again. Why? Because
when you made it, you didnt know how to make a character. Now that you do, go and make it
right this time.
Before you do that, go and read through the actual books advantages, disadvantages,
and skills. Make sure you know what all of your options are before you make any decisions
about what you want to go in your character. If you didnt already know what you wanted to
make, you do now.
Once youre done reading that, go through the steps in no particular order. Make your
character in whatever way that you want. Forget everything that I said about character
archetypes a little while ago; they are not character templates. They were there to give you an
idea of what kind of things you could do with the system. They are by no means all of the
possibilities, and I encourage you to figure something out on your own.
STEP 6 is short, but it requires the most reading out of any step. Come back to STEP 7
when you think youve got a solid character put together.

STEP SEVEN:
LEARN THE GAME
I dont know what to put here because I havent learned this game yet myself. Ive only
glanced at section two of the Basic Set, and it does a much better job of explaining the more
advanced parts of the game than I could ever do. This is pretty much the section where I store
any non-character creation trivia about the game that I could put together from the first section
of the Basic Set, which is pretty much just whatever I decided I would leave for later from the
introduction of this guide. This is going to be a lot shorter than it ought to be, but I am just not
well equipped enough to provide any other decent information.
-

Death, Dying and Negative HP

When your current HP drops below one of the milestones listed below (relative to your
base HP), several things may happen:
1/3rd HP: Halve your Basic Move and Dodge. Basic Speed is not affected.
0 HP or less: When your turn starts, make an HT check at a -1 for every full multiple of your
base HP that you are below 0 by. If your HP is 10, you would have a -1 penalty at -10 HP, a -2
penalty at -20, and so on. If you succeed, you may act normally but must make this roll again at
every turn (unless you choose to do nothing) until you fail the check or your HP becomes 1 or
higher. Failing the check means that you fall unconscious.
-1xHP or less: Immediately make an HT check or die. Failure by a margin of 2 or less means
youre dying, but not dead. You do not have to make this roll again until your HP drops down
another negative multiple of your base health. Youre still conscious if you still have not failed an
HT check, but you must keep making those checks at a -1 penalty as per the above description.
-5xHP or less: You die.
-10xHP or less: Killed in whatever spectacular and gore-drenched fashion the player or GM
cares to describe.

Rolling a Critical

Your critical range always includes a roll of 3 for success and a roll of 18 for failure, no
matter what it is that youre doing or how good you are at it. 4 and 17 are also criticals, but they
sometimes just mean a regular (but always guaranteed) success or failure regardless of skill.
5 and 6 can also be critical successes if the rollers effective skill (or target number) that
theyre rolling against is 15 or 16+, which can be thought of as 10 degrees of success or more
despite that the maximum roll for critical success is 6.
Critical failure has no such limit; failure by 10 degrees or more is always a critical failure
(unless its a 3 or 4, in which case its actually a critical success despite all odds!). If the
effective skill is 6, critical failure occurs on a roll of 16 or higher instead of on just 17 and 18. At
5 effective skill, this range becomes 15 or higher. This goes all the way down to -15 effective
skill, where every roll but a 3 or 4 is a critical failure.
If the only way to make or fail a particular check would be to roll a critical, then some
special rules apply. When the rollers target number is 16 or higher a roll of 17 is not a critical
failure, just a normal failure. It doesnt matter how high their skill is, a 17 always fails. Its not a
spectacular failure though, thats what their high amount of skill helped to avoid. Likewise, when
the rollers target number is 4 or below, a roll of 4 is just a normal success, and can sometimes
be described as just barely scraping by; some fluke completely outside the control of the
character was the reason success was possible at all. Theres always some kind of reward for
rolling a 3 or a 4, its not just something like the bomb didnt explode in your face, try again. A
roll of 4 succeeds; something good always happens on a success. A response like that would
be more appropriate for someone who rolled a 17 when their effective skill was 16 or higher.
If the expert with 16 or higher effective skill had rolled an 18 however, then that bomb
definitely explodes. Against all odds, most likely as a result of something that is completely
beyond their control, the worst possible scenario occurs. Even if what they were dealing with
had nothing to do with bombs, something is going to explode in their face. Something very bad
always occurs on a roll of 18. The GM should not be afraid to be absolutely ruthless about the
result; this is not the standard critical failure that you would see on a roll of 1 on a d20, which
has a 5% chance of occurring on every roll. An 18 occurs once every 200 rolls on average, or
0.5% of the time. Death would not be out of the question! If an 18 happens on a roll to parry,
block, or dodge, then the defender might have to roll for unconsciousness or even death despite
what HP they were at.
Thats what happens on an 18 for anybody, but critical failures on other rolls arent
nearly as bad. Theyre still pretty bad (something bad should always happen), but usually this
roll is your typical natural 1 on a d20: you pull a muscle; drop your weapon, etc. Its a result
that can turn the tide of a battle, but never something that decides it (thats what an 18 is
supposed to do!). Remember that a critical failure is different from a normal failure and that a
normal failure is different from a critical one. This may seem redundant, but a normal failure
should never be any more complex than it doesnt work. Thats the worst thing that a normal
failure can ever do. A critical failure must be more than that, but not quite to the extent that a roll

of 18 can do. The GM will figure it out! Someone that critically failed their defense might be at a
penalty to attack the next turn, or maybe they fell over! If a critical failure is made for an attack
roll, take a look at page 556 of the Basic Set You get to roll to determine the effect!
Similarly, a critical success is a normal success, but it also has some other bonus effect.
On a check for a skill such as Engineer, a critical success might mean that the design is
especially efficient and requires fewer resources to build or maintain. For a defense roll, you
might be able to dodge into an advantageous position that gives you a +2 to hit on your next
turn or +2 to defend against any other attacks made against you that turn. For a critical attack
roll (critical hit) your opponent doesnt even get a chance to defend against it, so you
automatically hit them. You also get to roll again for any of the effects listed on page 556 of the
Basic Set; one such effect is doing triple damage!
A roll of 3 is the best case scenario, no matter who you are or what youre doing. If this
was made during or at the beginning of a series of checks, you automatically succeed the rest
of them (an 18 would have failed them all!). Additionally, something spectacularly lucky happens
that is completely outside of the expectations the character had in mind for what they were
trying to do. Someone trying to get out of the way of a massive explosion would not only take no
damage whatsoever even when a normal success would have done half damage, but the
weapon that had been knocked out of their hand earlier comes skittering across the floor from
the force of the explosion and stops right next to them, completely intact. Against every single
odd, they profit from a situation that would have been a loss for anyone else. If a 3 is rolled to hit
for an attack, it not only bypasses the enemy defense and rolls on the critical hit table on page
556 of the Basic Set, but it also automatically rolls 6 for all of the damage dice for the attack. Its
also assumed that the attack lands wherever it would be the most inconvenient for the target,
but the most convenient for you. If your effective skill was astoundingly low, even into negative
integers, a roll of 3 would still allow you to succeed with the maximum effect.
-

Advanced Combat

Most rules that have to do with cloaks, shields, and fencing will have very little impact on
the game we will be playing. Our game will mostly be shooting blasters and dodging any return
fire. Attempts at melee combat would just be responded to with Parthian shots until a bolt lands,
followed by more blaster shots that would be even harder to dodge after the first shot (if youre
still standing, that is).
The rules about combat begin on page 362 of the Basic Set. Go and read them if you
want, but youre probably never going to need to know most of those rules for this campaign. I
will be providing everything I know about how ranged combat works for this section of the guide.
A basic outline of how general combat works can be found in the introductory section of this
guide.
On the next 10 pages is a list of all labeled blaster and ion weapons that might be seen
throughout the course of this campaign. The various labels spread across the table will be
explained below it. Ive put it on every page so that you dont have to scroll back up every time.

Damage
The damage (in dice) inflicted on a successful blow before modifiers from DR apply.
o

Armor Divisor

The number in parenthesis is the armor divisor. Divide the targets DR by

this number before calculating the damage negated by DR.
o

Type

The properties of the damage dealt by the attack, which are listed after
the armor divisor (if any) and are denoted as follows:

Burning (burn)
Deals 1x damage (damage is unchanged) after DR
negation to all targets that dont otherwise specify a
different modifier for Burning-type damage. This kind of
damage does not cause flames to ignite on flammable
targets (e.g. curtains, wood), but can ignite particularly
heat sensitive materials (e.g. gasoline). This is specified
mostly to better visualize the nature of the injury. Blood
from this kind of wound is rare since it is immediately
cauterized.

Impaling (imp)
Deals 2x damage (doubles) after DR negation to all
targets that dont otherwise specify a different modifier for
Impaling-type damage. This kind of damage causes
massive bleeding and deep wounds that can rupture vitals.
These injuries are much larger than typical bullet wounds
and frequently over-penetrate; passing through the target
to possibly hit multiple others before stopping completely.

Surge (sur)
The attack produces an electrical surge or pulse
that can disable electronics or anything with the Electrical
disadvantage, which includes a number of blaster
weapons and non-combat droids (though some combat
droids have vulnerable electrical parts). This isnt a
damage type in its own right, but it always accompanies at
least one other. It is assumed that this only affects objects
that are directly targeted by the attack, so if a blaster bolt
strikes your body then you can assume that your blaster
will still work just fine. If your blaster gets shot right out of
your hand however, its probably busted. This has no effect
if the damage is completely negated by DR.

Affliction (aff)
This attack deals 1d3 Burning-type damage with an
armor divisor of (1). Any damage that makes it past DR
has the Surge modifier (see above). Whether or not any
damage penetrates, the target must make an HT roll at a
-4 penalty plus half the DR on the location struck (this
secondary hit has an armor divisor of its own: (2) unless
otherwise specified). On a failure, the target is physically
and mentally stunned. They may then roll against HT every
turn at the same penalty (but without the DR bonus) to
recover. In addition to this, droids also take damage
directly to their HT (the primary attribute, not HP) equal to
the penalty specified by the modifier listed by HT for the
respective weapon (an ion pistol would be -3). This
damage is in combination with the 1d3 Burning-type
damage to HP. The droid still must roll for stunning, but the
HT damage is still applied whether the HT check succeeds
or fails (the droid must make the roll with the new HT total,
-4 penalty still applies). HT lost in this way can only be
regained through extensive maintenance and replacement
of fried components. If the droids HT ever drops below 0,
then it is completely scrapped and every electrical
component that was a part of it becomes worthless and
unusable. Repairing it is impossible and far less practical
than just building/buying/finding a new one.

Or
This weapon (AKA an Omni-Weapon) has a secondary firing mode that
has a different damage formula as well as other range values and properties.
Only one mode can be active at a time, but switching between these modes
is a free action. Both use the same ammo types unless otherwise specified.

Theres something next to the damage of ion weapons that says (1 yard) but I am
unsure as to what that means. It might be that that is the maximum range it can stun at, but it
does not specify; it could just as well be for the damage to HT on a droid. I assume that the
burning and droid damage are unaffected by this 1 yard range and instead use the normal
one.

Accuracy (Acc)

Accuracy gives you a bonus to weapon skill equal to whatever the weapon has listed
under Acc, but only if you took an Aim maneuver on the previous turn or, if applicable, have the
Gunslinger advantage. The accuracy listed by a particular weapon also represents the
maximum possible accuracy bonus that can be gained from the accumulation of all attached
upgrades for that weapon (e.g. if your 3 Acc Holdout Blaster has a padded grip that gives +1
when aiming and a scope that gives +4 when aiming, you get a +3 bonus, not +5). That same 3
Acc Holdout Blaster with all of its upgrades has a +6 bonus in total as a result.
If a weapons Acc has a + and another number by it, that means the weapon comes with
a built-in scope or aiming device upon purchase (removal of this aim-assist device takes this
bonus away but allows additional upgrades to take effect if they would surpass the base Acc).
That same 3 Acc Holdout Blaster with all of its upgrades installed would look like 3+3 Acc upon
purchase.
After this, you can further increase the bonus you get from aiming by bracing your
weapon. This entails resting your two handed weapon on a low wall, table, windowsill, etc. Its
also possible to brace a weapon by using a bipod and lying prone. For one handed weapons
like pistols, its considered braced if you are using two hands to aim. This gives +1 to hit.
In order to Aim, you must declare what your target is (it must be visible to you) and
which weapon youre aiming at it with. Aiming is a full turn maneuver, so you may do no actions
other than free ones if they would be considered as something that would not take away from
your concentration. You can fire it on the next turn for a +1 bonus, or you can choose to use an
Aim maneuver again and fire on the next turn for a +2 bonus. You can keep using Aim on the
third turn for a +3 bonus to hit for the next turn, but more Aim maneuvers after this would just
retain the +3 bonus without adding anything else. If you are attacked while aiming you may
choose to defend, but doing so automatically ruins your Aim and any accumulated benefits. If
you are injured while aiming then you must make a Will roll or lose your Aim. The only way to
move while aiming is by making no more than a single step per turn. You cant move at all if
your weapon is braced on something other than yourself.

Range

The numbers listed under this section of the table denote the range (in yards) at which
the attack starts to do only half of its original damage on the left side of the slash and the
maximum range on the right side of it. If theres just one number, there is no half-damage range
and this is just the maximum distance. Any range between 0 and the half-damage range is the
distance the weapons projectile can travel and still do full damage.
-

Weight

The weight for any given weapon on the table is listed in pounds (lbs.) and accounts for
the weight of an energy cell. Beyond the slash is the type of energy cell needed in order to
power the weapon, and the number too if it needs more than one. The weight of these cells is
not specified. Dp is a portable D-cell, usually in the form of a backpack.
-

Rate of Fire (RoF)

This is the amount of shots a particular weapon can fire in one round of combat. If you
have a weapon that can fire more than one shot per round, you must specify how many times
you are shooting that round before making the attack roll. You only roll to attack once. For every
degree of success you make it over your effective weapon skill, an extra hit lands (rolling right
on your score would be 1 hit in total, rolling 1 under it would be 2 hits, rolling 2 under it would be
3 hits, etc.). You cannot fire more shots than what your energy cell has left for in its remaining
charge, for obvious reasons.

Shots

The value listed in this part of the table represents how many shots you can make with a
fully charged energy cell before needing to replace it. The number in parenthesis (its 3 for all of
the weapons up there) next to it is how many 1 second Ready maneuvers (which is essentially
an entire turn) it takes to eject the dead cell (turn 1), retrieve a new cell from somewhere,
usually on your person (turn 2), insert the new cell (turn 3).
A successful Fast-Draw skill check can make the retrieval of a new cell not an issue, so
you can reload by spending 2 turns instead of 3. A failed Fast-Draw check means you drop the
cell and/or fumble around with it for long enough to waste your entire turn, but you still didnt
manage to retrieve the cell on this turn and it is not in your hand, so youre not putting it in your
blaster on the next turn (you can try another Fast-Draw check on the next turn to possibly do
both at the same time, however). You need to get another cell before you can move on to step 3
and finish loading your weapon.
As long as the dead cell has been ejected, you can delay your other two Ready
maneuvers since your blaster remains empty. You need two free hands in order to eject the cell
(you can probably do it with one but it would take a long time in combat), so you cant just hold
the fresh cell in your hand prior and have it ready to go once the dead one is ejected; thats
what a Fast-Draw check is supposed to determine. If you think you can get away with tape and
turning (if you know what that is), it wont work because you have to close off the cell with a
protective cover for the blaster to resume functioning; a second cell wouldnt be able to fit in
there with it.

Requisite Strength (ST)

The numbers in this section refer to the required amount of ST needed to properly use
the weapon. A number with a dagger () denotes that the ST listed there is what is required to
use the weapon with two hands. If you try to use weapon that requires more ST than you have,
you will be at a -1 to weapon skill for each point of ST that you lack in addition to losing extra FP
equal to ST lacked at the end of a battle that lasts long enough to fatigue you.
If you try to use a two handed weapon with only one hand, treat it as if the requisite ST
was 1.5 times as much (round up). Using a weapon like this to attack means that it becomes
unready, so the next turn requires a Ready maneuver before the weapon can be used again. If
you suffer more than a -5 penalty for doing this, you cant do it at all. If you want to use it without
the weapon becoming unready at all, treat it as if the requisite ST was twice the base amount
(cant do this either if the penalty for doing so is -5 or more). Youll have to figure out how to
reload it on your own though.
-

Bulk

Bulk measures the weapons size and handiness. Apply this modifier to your weapon
skill when you make a Move and Attack maneuver. It also applies as the penalty to conceal the
weapon with the Holdout skill.
-

Recoil (Rcl)

A high value for this means that the weapon is hard to control when firing more than one
shot in a turn. Rcl 1 means theres no recoil, so dont worry about this.
-

Cost (credits)

This is the amount of credits required to purchase the weapon. This cost includes the
most basic repair kit in order to do routine maintenance, such as cleaning rust off of the cell
chamber so that. Its assumed that if you bought the weapon yourself, then you also have the
means to keep it from falling into disrepair in the future.

Legality Class (LC)

The Legality Class of a weapon determines how easily you can find a weapon or how
easily you can keep it from being confiscated by law enforcement. It doesnt measure how
socially accepted it is to carry around, just how legally accepted it is to carry it around. Widely
available weapons have a high Legality Class and heavily restricted ones have a low Legality
Class.
o

LC 4 (Open)
The weapon is widely available and can be owned and used by anybody.
Usually such weapons are for recreational use in certain combat sports not
self-defense so there are very few regulations for them. Someone cant just
take one and walk down the street with it in their hands; its still recognized as
a lethal weapon and action can be taken against the carrier if they try to bring
it into a designated non-hostile area (e.g. school, airport, etc.).

LC 3 (Licensed)
The weapon is available, but requires some sort of registration in order to
be carried legally. Any adult seen carrying such a weapon by their hip
wouldnt rouse much suspicion; they would likely just be assumed to already
have a license for it. A kid carrying one is almost always unlicensed.

LC 2 (Restricted)
A weapon like this usually requires the owner to be a part of some higher
caste, such as law enforcement. A citizen caught walking around with one
might be called out by law enforcement, but it is usually legal to keep such a
weapon within their own property.

LC 1 (Military)
This sort of weapon gets the attention of legal enforcement and fellow
citizens. It is not legal to own a weapon like this as a citizen no matter where
they might use it. Only military personnel can be authorized to operate a
weapon of this type. Holdout Blaster is the only weapon on this list with LC 1,
but I should clarify that this kind of LC pertains to things like anti-aircraft
missiles and armored combat vehicles. Thats how illegal a Holdout Blaster
is.

LC 0
Everybody knows this weapon is illegal. This kind of legality class is
consistent galaxy-wide and is reserved for things such as an entire Death
Star. If theres even a mention about a weapon like this somewhere, there will
be people from all sorts of governments after it to make sure that nobody can
ever use it for any reason. Theres no weapon on this chart here with LC 0,
but anything thats considered a super-weapon that gets people around the
galaxy talking about planet-shattering should be considered LC 0.

Notes

Notes are specifications that are unique to a particular weapon. There are only two
different notes on this table, but there are a lot more of them in the book. They all mostly have to
do with weapons that will likely never play a role in this campaign however (cavalry, musclepowered crossbows, etc.), so Ive left those out for the sake of simplicity.
Note [2] was just to specify the special stunning and droid damaging effects of the
Affliction damage type, so that description can be found back up at the Damage section of
these table elements. It was already described in full detail in that section.
Note [4] means that the weapon can have different firing modes and has the OmniWeapon specification. This was described in the Damage section under Or, but what I didnt
mention there was that you can apply this specification to any other weapon on this chart
(except ion weapons because of redundancy). All you have to do is double the price of the
weapon you want to apply it to.
The secondary firing mode provided by this specification functions similarly to an ion
weapons Affliction, but it renders the target unconscious for minutes equal to the margin of
failure on the HT-4 roll to resist was (instead of stunning them mentally and physically). It also
has no effect on droids! It has a few different modifiers. For a pistol, the armor divisor against
the initial bonus from DR to resist the knock-out effect is (3). A carbines armor divisor is (3). A
rifles armor divisor is (3). For all of these, divide the half-damage and maximum ranges by 7.
An Omni-Weapons settings can be switched between at any time as a free action.

STEP EIGHT:
YOU CANT GET TO STEP EIGHT
Are you done learning the game? The answer is no. Thats why you cant get to step
eight. Thats why you never will. This system is so deep and complex that the rules are literally
endless. The guide might be over, but you are not done. I dont even know if the guide is over
yet; theres some homebrew rules that we havent even made yet that have nowhere to go but
in this guide. I might be making further edits to this guide and Ill have to figure out a way to
upload it in a way that can be reached by all of you at some point (uploading directly to Skype
just gets buried eventually).
Theres a lot of stuff that I didnt cover in this guide and probably wont ever get around
to covering them. This is because the book can usually explain stuff better than I can. I wouldnt
have written this guide if I didnt think I could do it better at some parts, but for the most part the
book does a great job of organizing displaying a lot of information in a way thats coherent there.
That said, if you need to find yourself some more numbers to crunch then you will find what
youre looking for stumble upon something in the book.
Dont know where to find the book? Well, heres a list of all of the vital components that
you are going to need in order to understand like maybe 30% of what I havent already
explained:
4th Ed. GURPS Basic Set pt. 1:
https://www.scribd.com/doc/119108893/GURPS-4th-Ed-Basic-Set-I

4th Ed. GURPS Basic Set pt. 2:

https://www.scribd.com/doc/119108204/GURPS-4th-Ed-Basic-Set-II

4th Ed. GURPS Star Wars Sentient Species:

http://members.upc.nl/l.deckers3/pdf/GURPS%204th%20-%20Star%20Wars%20Sentient%20Species.pdf

4th Ed. GURPS Star Wars Sourcebook:

http://members.upc.nl/l.deckers3/pdf/GURPS%204th%20-%20Star%20Wars%20Sourcebook%20(2009-06-11).pdf