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Speaker Stand with Hidden

Storage

Storage
Techniques for Tighter,
Faster, Stronger Miter Joints
Small Shop Solutions
by Gary Wentz
Start with Straight-Grained Wood

Wood selection makes all the difference in this project. Straight-grained pieces
emphasize the stand's simple lines. Wild or angled grain is distracting, but often it's
the norm in oak. No problem. If you don't mind wasting some wood, you can make
your own great-looking straight-grained boards.
Begin by selecting boards for the stiles and rails. You don't need many. It doesn't
matter what angle the grain runs at in these pieces, as long as some of it is straight.
(Click here for Cutting List) Save the parts of these boards with really wild grain for
the frames (K) and top (P) since their faces don't show. Rip the boards at an angle
that follows the grain (Photo 1). Use the new edge to cut your stiles and rails.
Photo 1
Straight-grained wood complements
the simple lines of this project. This
simple jig with toggle clamps lets you
rip straight-grained pieces from
ordinary boards.
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Rails, Stiles and Panels

The storage cabinet is basically four frame-and-panel assemblies with similar stiles
and rails. They are grooved to hold plywood panels (G) and splines (E, F). The
splines join each assembly. We'll use a standard blade to cut the grooves, rather
than a dado blade, because 1/4-in. plywood is usually undersized.
1. Rip and crosscut the stiles (A, B) and rails (C, D). Hang on to your offcuts to use
as trial pieces when making the grooves. Note that the stiles are two different widths.
The back has two narrow stiles; the door has two wide ones. The sides have a
narrow stile in front, a wide stile in back.
2. Cut the plywood panels (G) and use leftover scraps to make splines.
3. To make assembly easier, use sandpaper to slightly round the edges of the
panels.
4. Select and mark the best-looking side of each rail and stile as its face. Place the
face against the fence each time you cut a groove. That way, any slight variations in
wood thickness will create uneven joints on the inside rather than the outside of the
speaker stand.
5. Set your blade to 1/4-in. cutting depth and set your fence 1/4 in. from the blade.
Cut one kerf in some trial pieces and every stile and rail (Photo 2; Click here for
Fig. A, Detail 1, left). Move the fence and make a second pass in one of the trial
pieces. Use a spline to check the fit of the groove. The spline should slip in easily,
allowing room for glue. Adjust the fence if necessary and finish grooving all the
pieces.
Photo 2
Cut grooves in the rails and stiles to
hold plywood panels and splines. The
rails are very short and unsafe to hold
by themselves, so push them with a
shop-made jig (Click here for Figure
B).
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Speaker Stand with Hidden Storage, cont.

Assemble the Cabinet
Make a dry-run assembly to ensure everything goes together smoothly. You're
assembling rails and stiles of different widths and each part has a face and a
backside, so take a moment to double-check the configuration before you spread
any glue. Pay special attention to the face sides when cutting biscuit slots and
assembling the left and right sides of the cabinet. Otherwise, you might end up with
a side that's inside out.
6. Assemble the door, sides and back of the cabinet (Photo 3).
7. Cut the subtop and subbottom (H) of the cabinet from 3/4-in. plywood. We
covered the front edges of these parts (and the shelves) with 1/4-in.-thick strips of
oak banding (Q, R).
8. Cut slots for No. 0 biscuits. Biscuits aren't vital to the strength of the cabinet, but
they hold the parts in alignment and make assembly much easier.
9. Drill the holes for shelf pins before assembly (Photo 4).
10. Glue up the cabinet in two stages. First, glue and clamp the back to one of the
sides. Immediately add the subtop and subbottom to square the assembly (Photo
5). When the glue has set, add the other side.
Photo 3
Glue each side of the cabinet using
1/4-in. plywood splines. The back and
the door are built exactly the same
way, although the back is narrower.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/article.do?siteId=2222&categoryId=7002&contentId=484&pageNo=1 (1 of 3)26.09.2004 22:20:19
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Photo 4
Cut biscuit slots; then drill holes in
the sides for shelf supports. This jig
indexes the holes and acts as a depth
stop. The chuck of the drill hits the jig
before the bit goes too deep.
Photo 5
Assemble the cabinet using the
subtop and subbottom to square the
sides to the back. Place spacers
between the stiles so they don't flex
under clamping pressure. Biscuits
make aligning the parts a no-brainer
for this critical step.
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The Top and Base
The top and base are attached to identical mitered frames that are beveled to 45
degrees.
11. Miter the frame sides (K) and cut slots for No. 0 biscuits.
12. Glue up the frames (Photo 6).
13. Bevel the frames by running them over - not under - the tilted blade (Photo 7;
Fig. A, Detail 2). If you have a right-tilt saw, move the fence to the blade's left side.
If there isn't enough room, cut the bevels using a 45-degree chamfer bit in your
router.
14. Cut the sides (L) and corner blocks (M) for the base.
15. Assemble the base sides and glue in the corner blocks.
16. Stick the frame and base together with double-sided carpet tape. Screw and glue
them together (Photo 8).
Photo 6
Glue the mitered frames that go on
the top and bottom of the cabinet.
This awkward glue-up is a cinch with
a band clamp.
Photo 7
Bevel the mitered frames with the
blade tilted away from the fence. It's
safer to run your workpiece over a
tilted blade rather than under the
blade. Plus, this leaves a cleaner cut.
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Photo 8
Attach the mitered frame to the base
with double-sided tape. Drive a couple
of screws and check the alignment.
Back out the screws, remove the tape
and reassemble using screws and
glue.
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17. Use the same tape-screw-glue method to fasten the beveled frame to the
cabinet.
18. Make the top (P) by gluing three boards together. A single, wide board is less
likely to stay flat.
19. Attach the beveled frame to the top using screws, but no glue. Drill oversize
clearance holes in the frame so the top can move freely with changes in humidity.
20. Screw a scrap of 3/4-in. plywood (N) to the top, inside the frame, so you can
screw the top to the cabinet.
21. Fasten weights to the base to stabilize the stand (Photo 9).
Photo 9
Mount two 5-lb. barbell weights inside
the base so the stand is more stable.
Make a sturdy post for the weights
from a toilet bolt and a fender washer
with four holes drilled in it for screws.
Hang the Door

At this point, the door is the same height as the cabinet. The top and bottom ends
need to be trimmed to leave 1/8-in. gaps above and below the door. Make the trim
cuts with a miter saw or tablesaw sled.
22. Trim the door just enough so that you can set it in place and check the fit. Adjust
the angle of the final trim cuts to compensate if the cabinet is slightly out of square.
23. Cut a 1/8-in.-deep, 1-1/4-in.-long finger pull at the top of the door using a router
and chamfer bit (Fig. A).
24. Hang the door using no-mortise hinges (Photo 10). Install a magnetic catch (not
pictured) to keep the door shut.
American Woodworker
Photo 10
Attach the door to the cabinet. First
screw the hinges to the cabinet. Stick
double-sided tape to the loose side of
the hinges. Set the door in place and
gently swing it open. Support the door
with stands as you screw the hinges
to the door.
Finishing Touches
25. Drill holes in the top and bottom for speaker wire. Set a speaker on the stand to
determine the best hole position.
26. Finish the speaker stand with golden oak stain followed by three coats of sprayon polyurethane.
27. Stick adhesive-backed felt pads to the underside of the base.
Sources
Lee Valley, (800) 871-8158, www.leevalley.com
No-mortise hinge, 1-1/2 x 5/8-in., bronze finish, #00H51.21, $1 ea.
Band clamp, includes 90-degree corners, #17F10.13, $9.50
Adhesive-backed felt pads, 3/4-in.-dia., #93K86.03, $2.50 per pack of 24.
Woodcraft, (800) 225-1153, www.woodcraft.com
Bracket-style shelf support, 1/4-in. shank, #27I14, $4.50 per bag of 25
Toggle clamp, 6-1/2 x 1-3/4-in., #143993, $10 ea.
Minwax Co. (800) 523-9299 (for dealer locations), www.minwax.com
Golden oak stain, #210B, $8 per quart
Satin polyurethane, $5 per 11.5-oz. spray can.
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Storage
Make those maddening miters more

accurate.
by Gary Wentz
Miter joints provide one main advantage over

other joints: A miter joint hides end grain and
brings face grain neatly together. Everything
else about miter joints is a hassle. They're
fussy, time-consuming and easy to screw up. But there are ways to
minimize those hassles.
The 60-Second Squeeze
When you're dealing with small or hardto-clamp parts, the best clamping tools
might be your hands. Simply apply glue
to the parts; then rub them together to
distribute and tack-set the glue. Hold the
parts together on a flat surface for 30 to
60 seconds (although it may seem like 5
minutes). Watch the joint as you release
pressure; if anything moves, squeeze
and hold for a few more seconds. Let the
assembly sit undisturbed for a half-hour
before you handle it again.
Make Micro Adjustments with a

Disc Sander
No tool can tweak a miter's fit as easily
as a disc sander can. You can shorten
the workpiece a hair with a quick touch of
the disc. You can also adjust the angle
by a fraction of a degree. Instead of
fussing with the miter gauge, make tiny
adjustments by sticking a paper shim
between the gauge and the workpiece.
American Woodworker
Knock-Off Blocks for Long

Miters
Long miters are a nightmare to clamp,
but adding temporary triangular blocks
makes it a snap. The key is to use paper
from a grocery bag. Dab some wood
glue on both sides of the paper, stick the
blocks wherever you need them and let
the glue set overnight. When you're done
clamping, remove each block with a
hammer blow. The paper creates a weak
spot in the glue bond, so the blocks
break away without damage to the wood.
Use hot water to soften any paper or
glue left on the wood, then scrape it
away and sand as usual.
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Techniques for Tighter, Faster, Stronger Miter

Joints, cont.
Customize a Drafting Square
Drafting squares are inexpensive,
accurate and great for tool or jig setup.
Because they're plastic, you can easily
customize them to suit the job. We filed
notches in this square to keep the saw
teeth from interfering with setup. Drafting
squares are available in various sizes for
$4 to $10 at art and office supply stores.
Guides for Perfect Edging

Mitered guides clamped in place let you
perfect the length and angle of mitered
edging. Use the edging stock itself to
guide the fit of each piece. Clamp the
guides precisely in place and work your
way around the tabletop, gluing each
perfected piece in place as you go. After
you glue and clamp a section of banding,
remove the adjoining guides immediately
so you don't accidentally glue them in
place.
The Touch Test

When you're building a box or frame, the
opposite sides must be precisely the
same length. Otherwise, even the most
perfect miters won't form a tight joint. To
compare lengths, hold the parts together
on a flat surface and feel the ends. Your
finger can detect differences your eyes
can't.
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Stop Cutting Creep

When you're cutting miters on a miter
saw, the spinning blade tends to push or
pull the workpiece along the fence. A
hold-down clamp will stop the creeping,
but molded stock can be hard to clamp.
In that case, dampen the back side of the
wood. Moistened wood is less slippery
and easier to hold in place.
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Techniques for Tighter, Faster, Stronger Miter

Joints, cont.
Notched Blocks for No-Rush
Glue-Up
Getting all four corners of a box or frame
aligned and clamped before the glue sets
can be a frantic rush. Four notched
blocks lower the frustration level by
letting you tackle glue-up in manageable
steps. Start by joining two corners to
form the two halves of the box or frame.
Allow those first two glue joints to cure
for 30 minutes or so. Then rotate the
notched blocks and complete the
assembly by gluing the two halves
together.
Join Miters First, Rout Later

Flat, square stock is easier to miter, align
and clamp than shaped parts, so you'll
often get better results by routing edges
after assembly. To avoid splintering at
corners, make a few light passes instead
of one full-depth cut. Most importantly,
start each pass on a side, not at a
corner.
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Grain Match Matters

It takes more than a precision fit to make
a miter joint look good; the wood's grain
and color should match, too. Using a
single board to band a tabletop or build a
picture frame makes color matching
easier. Straight-grained boards are
easier to match than those with wavy
patterns. When matching wavy grain, try
this: Miter one piece and then use it to
find a matching area on the piece that
will adjoin it.
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Great ideas from space-challenged
woodworkers just like you.

Storage
by Sue Brunclik, Ernest Blair, Tim Johnson
Sliding Wall-O-Tools
I built this 8-ft.-long shelf system to take advantage of the narrow space in the corner
of my garage. When the unit is "closed," I've got ready access to the tools hanging
on both doors. By sliding one or both doors, I can get to every inch of shelf space
behind them. I got everything I needed to build this unit at the home center for about
$175.
The key was to mount the pegboard doors at least 5 in. apart, so I could load the
back door with tools and still have it pass behind the front door. I bought two slidingdoor hardware kits so each door could slide on its own track. Each kit contains a
single length of track designed to hold both doors, two pairs of door hangers and a
tracking guide designed to keep both doors in line at the floor.
How I Built It
I installed the shelves first, leaving enough room underneath to store my lawn
mower and other garage essentials (see above photo). All three shelves came from
a single sheet of plywood. The upper shelves are 11 in. wide and the bottom one is
20 in. I used 11-in. double-mount brackets for the upper shelves and 14-in. doublemount brackets with support arms for the wide bottom shelf.
I mounted the sliding-door tracks on a 2x10 header that I anchored directly above
the wide shelf with lengths of slotted angle extending from both the ceiling and wall
(Photo 1).
To make the sliding doors, I cut a single sheet of pegboard in half and framed both
pieces with 1x2 stock (each door has four vertical stiles for rigidity). I suspended
each door from four hangers (Photo 2) and fastened the tracking guides, one per
door, on the wide plywood shelf (Photo 3). After installing the doors, I blocked the
open end of the tracks with a stop.
Sue Brunclik
American Woodworker
PHOTO 1:
The doors hang from widely spaced
tracks mounted on a 2x10 header.
Lengths of slotted angle hold the
header securely in place.
PHOTO 2:
The doors glide smoothly on rollerequipped hangers. Each track has two
grooves, so you can easily change the
spacing between the doors and
shelves, if necessary.
PHOTO 3:
Each door has its own tracking guide.
My system uses two sliding-door
hardware kits. Each kit contains one
guide designed for two doors. I
customized them with a hacksaw.
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Small Shop Solutions, cont.
Pantry Door Tool Cabinet

Inspired by the pantry cabinet in the kitchen of our new house, I built this compact
version for my workshop. It has the same deep double-hinged doors that make
everything inside easy to reach. I used 3/4-in.-thick stock so I could use screws to
hang tools inside. The thick back made it easy to fasten the cabinet to the wall.
I used less than a sheet of 3/4-in.-thick plywood and two 4-ft.-long continuous hinges
to build my cabinet. I got everything I needed at the local home center. Including the
latch and magnetic catches, my total cost was $75.
Ernest Blair
Build It
Click here for Cutting List and Exploded View
1. Cut the cabinet frame pieces to size. Rabbet the sides (A) for the ends (B) and the
back (C). Rabbet the ends for the back, too.
2. Glue the cabinet frame and back simultaneously. Make sure the assembly is
square before you drive the nails and screws.
3. Install the shelves (D). Drill holes for router bits and other accessories before
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installation. Bevel the shelves' back edges to match the slope that works best for
you. Screw the shelves from the back and nail them from the side.
4. Cut the door frame pieces. Rabbet the door sides (E and H) for the ends (F and
J).
5. Cut or rout grooves in the inner door frame pieces (E and F) for the dividers (G).
6. Assemble the inner doors. Make sure they're square.
7. Round over the edges and rout rabbets around the outer door faces (K).
8. Assemble the outer doors. Make sure they're square.
9. Cut the hinges to length with a hacksaw.
10. Lay the cabinet on its back to install the doors. Clamp the inner doors in position
on top of the cabinet. Then attach the hinges.
11. Clamp the outer doors on the inner doors and attach the remaining hinges.
12. After hanging the doors, install magnetic catches and mount the latch.
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Small Shop Solutions, cont.
Instant Surface
In my compact shop, everything has to be portable and stowable, including my work
surfaces. Whenever I need tabletop space for processing parts, milling boards or
even assembling a project, I whip out this little gem. It's easy to maneuver because it
folds flat for storage and weighs less than 25 lbs. It sets up in seconds and is
surprisingly rigid.
I used half-lap joints on the base and heavy-duty 270-degree hinges on the top (see
Sources, below). When the table is folded, cleats extending from the back rail hold
the hinged legs, and hand holes in the top and back rail align to form a comfortable
grip. When the table is set up, the swing-leg assemblies butt against the back rail
and are firmly captured by cleats attached to the bottom of the top.
Tim Johnson
American Woodworker
Build It
Click here for Cutting List
1. Cut the legs (A) and rails (B and C) to size.
2. Cut the hand hole and mortises for the 270-degree hinges in the back rail.
3. Cut half-lap joints in the legs and rails.
4. Lay the back assembly on your bench and clamp the swing-leg assemblies on top
of it in the open position. Make sure the top edges and outside faces of the swingleg rails (C) are flush with the top and outside edges of the back rail (B).
5. Screw on the butt hinges.
6. Install the 270-degree hinges and fasten the top (D).
7. Transfer the location of the hand hole from the back rail to the top and cut it out.
8. Turn the table upside down, swing the legs wide open (so they bear against the
back rail) and fasten the cleats (E and F).
Source
Woodworker's Hardware, (800) 383-0130, www.wwhardware.com
C374 Full overlay 270-degree hinge, $4 each (2 required).
123
American Woodworker: Workshop Tips
Belt Sanding Block

I do most of my sanding by hand, so I made this convenient wooden sanding block to
fit 3-in. x 21-in. sanding belts. The block is split for two-thirds of its length, and the
belt is tensioned with a removable dowel. A softer wood, such as poplar or white pine,
gives the best results. If the belt stretches and becomes loose, insert a slightly larger
dowel.
Bill McCarthy / Riegelsville, Penn.
Workshop Tips October 1999
1999 American Woodworker
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199910/workshop_tips/main/belt_sanding.html26.09.2004 22:25:37
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More Tips
Bottoms-Up Glue Cup

by Paul Lee
Pipe Insulation Contour

Sander
Complete Library
Whenever I need a small amount of glue, I

reach for a paper cup. And since I visit the
neighborhood coffee shop every morning, I
always have a supply of used cups! But instead
of filling the cup with glue, I turn it upside down.
The indentation on the bottom holds enough
glue for small glue-ups, and the inverted cup is
very stable. When the job is done, I just throw
the cup away.
>> View our complete library of Workshop Tips.
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More Tips
Pencil Lines Tell You When

To Stop

Sander
Complete Library
by Eric Smith
There's nothing worse than sanding right
through a veneer. Pencils lines are a great way
to gauge sanding progress. I always draw lines
on plywood where it meets a solid hardwood
edge. The lines will start to disappear when the
hardwood edge is flush with the plywood. That's
when you know it's time to stop. Pencil lines
work on glued-up boards, too. The boards aren't
even until all the lines are gone.
Classy Face Frames

I make a lot of traditional face frame cabinets and its always a problem covering the
raw edge of the plywood at the corners. A normal face frame is very obtrusive when
viewed from the side. My solution is to attach rabbeted edging, as shown. This gives a
finished look and the corner can sustain minor damage without marring the veneer.
With a little easing of the corner, the face frame joint is almost invisible. You do have
to cut the top and dividers so they are set back from the sides by the depth of the
rabbet.
Michael Kurtz / Toledo, Ohio
Workshop Tips Page 18 December 1999
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199912/workshop_tips/main/face_frames.html26.09.2004 22:27:54
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More Tips
Convenient Benchtop
Protection

Sander
Complete Library
by Gerry Casiello
My workbench is beautiful and I want to keep it that
way, so I cover the top with builder's paper ($7/140ft. roll at my local home center) whenever I'm gluing
or staining. But the heavy roll was hard to handle
and a nuisance to store until I devised this simple
holder made from 4-in. PVC drain pipe (10-ft.
length, $3).
The holder is no wider than the roll, so there aren't
any protruding hangers or rods.Using my chop saw,
I cut the PVC pipe and the roll of paper to the width
of my workbench. Then, on my tablesaw, using the
fence, and with the blade set just high enough to
cut through the pipe, I carefully cut a lengthwise
slot.
I screwed the pipe to the end of my bench, using
the drain holes for access. Then I slid in the roll of
paper. It was a tight fit at first, because the new roll
was the same diameter as the pipe, but once I'd
covered the bench a couple times, the paper pulled
out easily.
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Dual-Grit Disc Sanding

by Dan Reeve

Sander
Complete Library
My disc sander is indispensable for both quick

wood removal and final smoothing. I got tired of
changing and wasting discs every time I needed
a different grit, though, so I made one disc out
of two. To make the dual-grit disc, I lay two 12in. discs together, one coarse and one fine grit.
Then I cut a 6-in circle out of the middle of them
with a utility knife. This gives me two sets of
dual-grit discs and nothing goes to waste. When
I mount them to the disc sander, it's just like
putting the doughnut hole back in the doughnut.
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More Tips
Fender Washers for

Mounting Pictures

Sander
Complete Library
by Larry Jenkins
I enjoy making picture frames but always found it a
pain to use tacks or staples to hold the picture in
place. Plus tacks and staples are hard to remove
when you want to change the picture. That's why I
developed this method for holding the picture,
glass, matting, and backing board in the frame. I
use 1-in.-diameter fender washers and #6 by 3/8-in.
pan head screws. I drill the recess for the washer
with a Forstner bit and make the recess deep
enough so the washer will bear against the backing
board to hold everything snug.
Grind Your Own Knives

With this simple jig, a drill press and a cup grinder, I can sharpen any jointer or planer
knife. First I make a hardwood block and cut it to 1/16 in. less than the length of the
knives. Then I add a retaining piece at each end, as shown. Install a medium-grit cup
grinder in the drill press and set the speed at the high end of its range. Lower the
grinding wheel until it just touches the blade, then lock the quill. Continue grinding
until all the nicks in the knife are removed. Use the same procedure to grind the
remaining knives, then hone them on an oil or waterstone in the usual way.
Arthur Chism / Hot Springs, Ark.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199912/workshop_tips/main/grind_knves.html26.09.2004 22:30:25
Jig for Router Dadoes

For fast and accurate dadoes, this jig is hard to beat. The trick is to run the router
against one guide, then back against the other. This allows you to use a 1/2-in. bit, for
example, to cut a dado that's 13/16-in. wide or less, to get a perfect fit with plywood.
Because the dado is cut in the end of the jig, you can simply line up the jig with one
mark. This makes it hard to goof up by having the dado on the wrong side of the mark.
For greatest accuracy, make a dedicated jig to fit one router and one bit. Note: The jig
will only cut one size dado.
Eliot Ehrich / Chatham, N.J.
Workshop Tips Page 18 February 2000
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/200002/workshop_tips/main/dadoes.html26.09.2004 22:31:04
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Jointing With A Planer

by Mike Hofer

Sander
Complete Library
I came across some wonderful oak boards for a

small table I wanted to build. The problem was
the boards were too wide for my jointer and I
didn't want to rip them any narrower. I solved
my dilemma with this planer sled that allows me
to use my planer as a jointer. The trick is to
keep the board from rocking during planing. A
wood shim under the high corner is all it takes. I
add hot-melt glue to the shim and all four
corners of the board to keep them from shifting
on the sled during planing. Once I have one
side planed flat I take the board off the sled, flip
it over and plane the other side. The boards for
my table were only 4-ft. long and the sled is
about 6-in. longer. This technique works equally
well for longer boards although you will need a
longer sled and you may need additional shims
along the sides.
American Woodworker
Large Sheet Crosscutting

Crosscutting large sheets of plywood on the tablesaw can be difficult, and I usually end
up binding the blade, burning the wood, or worse. To get around this, I clamp a board
under the plywood, and use it as an auxiliary fence which rides against the left edge of
the tablesaw top.
Amy Kendall / Milwaukee, Wisc.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199910/workshop_tips/main/crosscutting.html26.09.2004 22:32:01
Mobile Machine Caddy

My shop space is so limited-only 12 feet square-that I designed this system to house
four machines: belt-disc sander, miter saw station, drill press and planer. Each machine
has an accessory storage tray below. With all the machines down I have a clear
working surface above. Each machine is wired to a central outlet so its always ready
for use.
Stephen Vogt / Ludington, Mich.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199912/workshop_tips/main/machine_caddy.html26.09.2004 22:32:11
American Woodworker
Repair Ripped Belts

Sanding belts can rip at the worst possible moment such as when you're out on a
jobsite with no spares. When this happens I remove the belt, turn it inside out and cut
the torn spot into a diamond-shaped hole with a utility knife. This adds life to the belt
without affecting its performance.
Rodney Baker / Dalton, N.Y.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199910/workshop_tips/main/ripped_belts.html26.09.2004 22:33:29
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Raised-Panel Tablesaw Jig

by Pat Hunter

Sander
Complete Library
Rather than buy a set of raised-panel router

bits, I use this tall fence on my tablesaw. It's
simply a plywood box that slides on the rip
fence. I use two bar clamps to hold my 3/4-in.thick panel to the fence. The stop at the back of
the jig also keeps the panel from shifting. To
saw the bevel, I set the saw blade at 15
degrees and raise it 1-1/2 in. high. I use a scrap
board to test the setting and adjust the rip fence
so the beveled edge of the panel ends up
slightly less than 1/4 in. thick. This permits the
panel's beveled edge to fit snugly into the slot in
the rails and stiles of my project. I also adjust
the blade height so it creates a 1/8-in.-wide
shoulder on the inner edge of the bevel.
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Rock-Solid Bench Support

by Dave McNeely

Sander
Complete Library
The face vise on my workbench didn't hold long

boards rigidly enough until I added this
adjustable "bench slave." And it only cost about
$30.
First I milled a board to attach to the leg, making
sure it was thick enough to fit flush with the front
edge of the benchtop. Then I cut a dado right
down the middle of the board, to house a piece
of T-track (slotted aluminum track that accepts
T-bolts; see Sources, below). When I installed
the T-track, I left a gap at the top for installing
and removing the support block. Next I drilled
two centered holes in the support block, one
large enough for the T-bolt to slide through
freely, the other small enough for the T-bolt to
thread into. I attached a T-style knob to the freesliding bolt and fastened a toggle clamp (see
Sources, below) over the threaded-in T-bolt.
Installing and removing the support block is
easy, thanks to a small gap for the T-bolts at the
top of the T-track.
Sources
Woodcraft, (800) 225-1153 www.woodcraft.com
28219 36" Mini-Track (T-track); $13
130435 1/4"-20 1-3/4"-L T-bolts (10 pack); $6
85J95 1/4"-20 Phenolic T-style knob; $2.
Highland Hardware,(800) 241-6748 www.
highlandhardware.com
166105 Toggle clamp; $7.
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Rounded Corners In A Jiffy

by Randy Johnson

Sander
Complete Library
Getting rounded corners that match is a cinch

with this template. Legs fastened to both sides
automatically center the template on the
workpiece. Once the template is in position,
only spring clamps are needed to hold it in
place. When you install the template on top of
the workpiece, rout the profile with a top-bearing
pattern bit. If you install the template on the
bottom, rout with a regular flush-trim bit.
Slipping Edges
Sharp edges and thin laminates have a way of slipping under the tablesaw fence and
ruining a projector worse. My answer is to lay a piece of 1/4-in. hardboard or
plywood up against the fence. A stop at the back prevents the assembly from sliding
forward as I push the work past the saw blade.
Mike Hofer / Rosetown, Sask.
NOTE: Blade guard above is not
shown for clarity. Use Yours!
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199912/workshop_tips/main/slipping_edges.html26.09.2004 22:35:20
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Surefire Marking Gauge

by Jacques Paquette

Sander
Complete Library
Screwing plywood pieces with drywall-type

screws is quick and easy, but drilling holes in a
straight line can be tricky. That's why I made
this handy little marking gauge that allows me to
quickly and accurately mark a line on my
plywood for drilling screw holes. To make it,
simply cut a 3/8 in. by 3/8-in. rabbet into a board
that is about 1-in. wide by 8-in. long. You now
have a marking gauge to make a line that will
put your screws exactly in the centered edge of
your 3/4-in. plywood.
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American Woodworker
Tablesaw Jig Clamp

I added this hold-down to my tablesaw's sliding cutoff jig and find it a great
convenience, because the height of the clamp is easily changed. This clamp uses a
standard bar-type caulking gun, cut in half, as shown. The mounting block slides to
apply clamping pressure where needed, and I covered the plunger with rubber so it
wouldn't mar the workpiece. One squeeze of the handle and the work is locked in
position and all for less than $3!
Rusty Bentzinger / Leighton, Iowa
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/199910/workshop_tips/main/tablesaw_jig_clamp.html26.09.2004 22:35:55
Template for Rounded Corners

This guide takes only a minute to make and helps you make perfect corners in four
different diameters.
Steve Robertson / Durango, Colo.
Workshop Tips Page 18 February 2000
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/tips/200002/workshop_tips/main/rounded_corners.html26.09.2004 22:36:19
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Wall-Hung Storage Bins

by Larry Jenkins

Sander
Complete Library
I recently bought a big stack of plastic storage

bins at a flea market. I got a great deal on them,
but they didn't come with any hanger strips. I
came up with my own hanger by using a piece
of colonial-style base molding attached with the
good side toward the wall. The bins hang
perfectly from the thin top edge. Boy, now my
hardware is going to finally be organized!
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By Ed Krause
Get better results in less time with these great tips.
Hand tools are a joy to use, but only

when theyre sharp. Just as learning to
walk is the prerequisite to running,
successful sharpening is the key to
"unplugged" woodworking. Try these tips
and youll be surprised at the strides your
sharpening skills take and by the quiet
satisfaction you get from your hand tools.
Homemade Angle Checker

This angle checker, made from a plastic
lid, is a simple (and free) way to check
the bevel on your chisels and planes. It
only takes a few minutes to make.
No More Waterstone Mess

Theres no getting around itwaterstones
are messy. Heres a simple tip for keeping
that mess contained: Pick up a heavygauge, 13 in. by 19-in. cookie sheet (about
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200009/bettersharp/main.html (1 of 3)26.09.2004 23:04:05
Simply cut a 4- to 6-in. diameter plastic

lid in half. Then, using a protractor, mark
the desired angles on a piece of paper.
Cut out the triangles and use them as a
template to mark the angles on the lid.
Cut out the angles on the lid with a pair
of scissors. Drill a hole at the top and
hang it on the wall near your grinder.
Dress for Success

Ever lose your temper? I mean your
chisels temper. Dont get burned by a
clogged, uneven grinding wheel.
Dressing your grinder wheels
periodically to keep them clean and flat
helps prevent the excess heat that leads to
bluing and loss of temper(s).
Single-point diamond wheel dressers do a
great job but theyre difficult to use
freehand. Try a flat-tip diamond dresser
instead. It has 36-grit diamond stone
particles imbedded in a 1/2-in. wide by
3/4-in.-long face. Simply place it on your
grinders tool rest and make contact with
the wheel.
Flat-tip diamond dressers are available
from Woodcraft Supply, (800) 225-1153,
#124670, $18.
$7) at the grocery store, hardware store

wherever. Its large enough to easily hold
three stones. Use a 3/4-in. board pushed
against the stones and clamp down the
board and the cookie sheet on your bench.
When youre done, just wipe the cookie
sheet dry and hang it on the wall.
Surefire Scraper Filing

Youve probably heard other
woodworkers talk about what a great tool
the scraper is, but maybe youve never
had much luck with one yourself. Using
them is easy; getting a good edge on them
is the tough part. The hardest step in
sharpening a scraper is the first one
filing the edge square and flat. Start off
right with this easy-to-make file holder:
Cut a kerf equal to the thickness of an 8in. mill file in a 1-1/4-in. thick by 4-in.
wide by 6-in.-long piece of wood. The
kerf should be a little deeper than half the
width of the file. This allows you to set
the file at different depths to avoid dulling
it in one spot. Clamp the scraper in a
wood-jaw vise. Push the scraper firmly
against the holder while filing for a
perfectly square edge.
Easy Knife Sharpening

Custom Gouge Strop
Getting a mirror finish on the contoured
profiles of carving gouges can be a real
hassle. The curved surfaces dont lend
themselves to polishing on a flat stone or
strop. Making a custom strop is easy. Use
the chisel to cut its own contour in a
piece of poplar or basswood. Rub
chromium oxide polishing compound in
the contour and you have a custom-made
strop.
Chromium oxide is available from Lee
Valley & Veritas, (800) 871-8158,
#05MO8.01, $7.
Dont keep your sharpening skills

confined to your shop tools. Why not
tackle that dull set of kitchen knives
youve been crushing tomatoes with?
Heres a great tip: Go to any office supply
store and buy one of those loose-leaf
folders with a plastic spline (about 40
cents). Cut and trim the spline to fit over
the back of the knife. The spline raises the
back of the knife just enough to put a
consistent bevel on the cutting edge. Now
your knives will glide right through those
tomatoes!
Next Page
Workshop Tips 12 Tips For Better Sharpening Page 78 October 2000

2000 American Woodworker Magazine
The Right Angle Every Time

Spend Less Time Sharpening
Less time sharpening means more time
woodworking. Isnt that what we all
want? Honing guides get the job done
fast, but setting the blade in the guide to
get the right bevel angle can be time
consuming.
Heres a quick trick: Mark the
appropriate blade extension for each
bevel angle on your benchtop, or a wood
scrap, for convenient reference. Hold the
edge of the blade to the desired bevel
mark, butt the guide to the edge of the
bench and tighten. The side-clamp
honing guide, shown above,
automatically squares the blade and
prevents it from rocking or shifting in the
jig. This guide is available from Garrett
Wade, (800) 221-2942, Item # 10M0701,
$12.
Chisels and planes have bevel angles

from 25 to 35 degrees depending on their
intended use. You can buy a jig for
grinding these angles, or make your own
angle blocks at no cost!
Make one block for each angle. Glue up a
block 2-1/2 in. deep by 4-in. wide by 10in. tall. Mark the desired angle on the top
of one side. Drill a 1-in. hole through the
side of the block at the halfway point of
your angle mark. Then cut the angle on
your tablesaw. The remaining groove
makes an excellent guide for your
fingers. Cut the block to length so the top
is equal to the center height of your
wheel. To secure the block, drill a 1-1/4in. hole near the bottom of the block for a
bar clamp.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200009/bettersharp/page2.html (1 of 3)26.09.2004 23:04:55
Keeping Waterstones Dead

Flat
Fine Edge On Your Scraper
The edge left after filing a scraper is a
little rough for fine work. Use a piece of
wood to align the scraper when moving it
against the stone and youll retain the
square edge you achieved with your file
jig.
An extra-fine (1,200) diamond stone is a
good choice for this because the scraper
wont wear a groove in the stone. You
can get one from Trend-lines, (800) 7679999, Item # DM6E, $45.
Waterstones are great for sharpening

bench tools, but their soft binder makes
them prone to dishing out and grooving.
Fortunately, flattening them is no big
deal. An 11 in. by 12-in. piece of 1/4-in.
plate glass and a sheet of 180-grit wet/dry
sandpaper provide a cheap, perfectly flat
abrasive surface for flattening all your
waterstones. The glass will cost you
about six bucks (be sure to have the
edges sanded) and the wet/dry sandpaper
about 70 cents a sheet. Both are available
at hardware stores. Use water to hold the
paper on the glass and to flush away the
slurry.
3 Ways to Test for Sharpness

Flatten Blade Backs Fast
It would be great if chisels and planes
1. If you can see light on the edge, its

not sharp. A sharp edge is too fine to
reflect light.
came from the factory ready to use, but

they dont. A perfectly flat, mirror-like
finish on the back is essential for a truly
sharp edge. Flattening always requires a
large dose of elbow grease and patience.
The fastest method is to use an extracoarse diamond stone. It wont dish out
the way oilstones and waterstones do and
it can easily be clamped in a vise.
Once you have a flat surface, move on to
finer stones until your chisels and planes
shine like a mirror.
Extra-coarse diamond stones are
available from Lee Valley & Veritas,
(800) 871-8158, 8" x 2-5/8," Item
#70M04.01, $66.
2. A sharp edge
catches easily on
the side of a plastic
pen barrel. A dull
edge slides right
off.
3. A sharp blade
slices softwood end
grain cleanly (left).
A dull blade tears
the end grain
(right).
Previous Page
Workshop Tips 12 Tips For Better Sharpening October 2000

American Woodworker: Project of the Month: Frame and Panel Hope Chest
Mortise and tenon joinery the easy

way.
By Tom Caspar
I used to struggle with mortise and tenon
joinery. I tried every new system that
came along, but they all seemed way too
complicated. One day a friend of a friend
walked into my shop, said Throw away
those fancy jigs! and showed me an
elegant way to make these classic joints.
This blanket chest is the ideal project to
showcase this technique. One of the ways
I used to get into trouble with joinery was
to constantly measure everything. No
more. Whenever possible, I use the
thing itself to guide my cuts, especially
in mortise and tenon work. That is, I use
an object, not a ruler, to measure directly
from one thing to another. Settle on the
most important sizes first, make the
pieces and then everything else falls into
place.
Youll see how fool-proof the system is

in building this blanket chest. The design
utilizes a form of frame and panel
construction that goes back hundreds of
years. This joinery has proved to be
durable and reliable, so if youre thinking
of making an heirloom project, heres one
that will last many generations.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200002/main/index.html (1 of 2)26.09.2004 23:13:34
THE TENONS of this chest line up

exactly with the grooves that hold the
panels. This simplifies laying out the
joints. Cut the grooves first and the rest
naturally follows.
Next Page
Tools, Materials, & Sources Exploded View of Hope Chest
The Grooves & Mortices The Tenons The Tenons (Continued)
The Stiles & Panels and The Top & Bottom Assembly
Project of the Month Frame and Panel Hope Chest Page 37 February 2000
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200002/main/index.html (2 of 2)26.09.2004 23:13:34
You should have some experience

milling rough lumber straight and square
before tackling this project. Youll need a
jointer and a planer to prepare the wood,
a carbide-tipped stack dado set to cut
grooves and tenons and a miter gauge
you can trust to make square cuts. I prefer
a mortising machine for its speed and
accuracy, but you can use a plunge router
or a drill press to cut mortises.
Youll need three different thicknesses of
rough hardwood. I used Pennsylvania
cherry, which is easy to work and
available in both rift and plain sawn
boards (see Sources). The legs are made
of 8/4 stock and require about 10 board
feet of lumber. The rails and stiles come
from 5/4 stock and youll need about 30
board feet. I used the straight grain of riftsawn wood in the legs, rails and stiles to
offset the plain-sawn top and panels,
which required about 20 board feet of 4/4
wood. I used about 12 board feet of white
pine for the bottom boards and back
panels partially for economy, but mainly
because I like the smell. Using rift-sawn
wood, the total lumber cost is about $400.
5 ways to soup up your Mortiser

These machines can cut accurate
mortises incredibly fast. Here are some
tips to make a good machine even better
for any project:
Install a wider and longer support

table.
Fasten the machine to your
workbench.
Add a homemade riser block to
the machine to accommodate wide
legs and rails.
Lock the work in place with a
quick-action clamp.
Blow out the chips with
compressed air.
Begin by milling all the legs and rails to

thickness, width and length (see Cutting
List). Be sure to cut the rails to their
overall length, which includes both
tenons. Mill the stiles to thickness and
width, too, but leave them a bit long for
now. Make a few extra short rails to use
as test pieces down the road.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200002/main/page2.html (1 of 3)26.09.2004 23:13:51
Cutting List
Part Qty. Name
Material
Dimensions
Comments
TOP
4/4 Cherry 13/16 x 19 x 48
LEGS
8/4 Cherry 1 x 3 x 25
TOP LONG RAILS 5/4 Cherry 1 x 3 x 40-7/8
Tenon Length 11/8" Between

Shoulder 38-5/8"
BOTTOM LONG
RAILS
5/4 Cherry 1 x 4 x 40-7/8

Shoulder 38-5/8"
TOP SHORT
RAILS
5/4 Cherry 1 x 3 x 16

Shoulder 14"
BOTTOM SHORT
RAILS
5/4 Cherry 1 x 4 x 16

Shoulder 14"
STILES
5/4 Cherry 1 x 3 x 14
Tenon Length "

Between
Shoulder 13"
FRONT PANELS
4/4 Cherry 5/8 x 11-1/16 x 1311/16
OPENING IS 103/8"W 13"L
BACK PANELS
4/4 Pine
SIDE PANELS
4/4 Cherry 5/8 x 15-3/16 x 1311/16
OPENING IS
14"W 13"L
BOTTOM
4/4 Pine
x 6 x 44-13/16
OVERALL
WIDTH OF
BOTTOM IS 1611/16"W,
TONGUE AND
GROOVE IS 3/8"
DEEP
BOTTOM
4/4 Pine
x 5-11/16 x 4413/16
BOTTOM
4/4 Pine
x 5-5/8 x 4413/16
5/8 x 11-1/16 x 1311/16
HARDWARE
2
HINGES
BRASS
2"H x 1" OPEN WIDTH
DOWEL ROD
CHERRY
3/8"DIA. 24"L
LID SUPPORTS
LUMBER:
Pennsylvania cherry: Groff and Groff
Lumber, (717) 284-0001
Cherry dowel rod, #50B02; $1.50:
Woodcraft Supply, (800) 225-1153
Router bits, 1/2-in. shank size:
3/4-in. dia. Round-nose, #747; $17
Round-over, #655; $17
Tongue and groove, #7844; $40:
MLCS, (800) 533-9298
HARDWARE:
Hinges: 01B01.07; $22/pr.
Lid Support: 03K20.06; $4:
Lee Valley, (800) 871-8158
(Be sure to ask for installation
instructions.)
Tools:
Flush-cutting saw, #126296; $16:
Woodcraft Supply, (800) 225-1153
Previous Page Next Page

Hope Chest Tools, Materials, & Sources Exploded View of Hope Chest
Project of the Month Frame and Panel Hope Chest February 2000
26H 48L 18D

Ive learned the hard way that its best to

make the mortises first, then size the
tenons to fit them. Begin mortising by
making the grooves, because they define
the sides of the mortises. In addition, the
depth of the grooves defines one end of
the mortises (see Fig. B). Notice how the
bottom of the groove becomes the edge of
a tenon (see photo). In this project, the
groove is the thing itself thatll guide
your cuts.
Make the grooves on the tablesaw with a
dado set. Its a simple set-up: the groove
is 3/8-in. wide, 3/8-in. deep and 3/8-in.
from the fence (Fig. A, Detail 2). Mark
the face side of each piece before you
begin to cut. The face side always goes up
against the fence. Groove one edge of all
the rails, including the test pieces, and
both edges of the stiles.
Cut one stopped groove in each leg (Photo
1). Youll have to limit the length of the
groove because it stops at the bottom edge
of the lower mortise (Fig. A). Clamp a
stop block to a long auxiliary fence board.
LEG AND RAIL JOINTS

These grooves define the width of both
the tenon and the mortise. The haunch
is the part of a tenon that fills in the
groove.
Reset the fence to the left side of the saw

blade to cut the other groove in each leg.
Use one of the legs as a measuring tool to
position the fence. Unplug the saw, nestle
the grooved edge of a leg right on top of
the dado set (face side pointing to the left)
and snug up the fence. Run the other face
of each leg up against the fence when you
cut the groove (Photo 2).
Next, cut the wider groove that holds the

bottom in place (Fig. A, Detail 5). It will
become the lower edge of a tenon. Use the
top of the rail as your reference edge. The
tenons on these lower rails fit exactly
between the two kinds of grooves youve
made (Fig. B).
Deepening parts of the grooves creates the

mortises. Where exactly do the mortises
go? Pick up any rail and youve got the
information right in your hand.
Lay the top rail on a leg and youll be
using the thing itself (Photo 3). Place
the rail so it barely hangs over the leg
(Photo 4). Just follow the lines down from
the grooves (Fig. B). Cut a piece of wood
the length of the panel opening (Cutting
List) to precisely position the lower rail.
Once youve marked one leg, clamp all
the legs together and transfer the mortise
marks from the first leg to the others.
Make the mortises 1/8-in. deeper than the
length of the tenons (Photo 5).
THE GROOVES THE THING. Its size

and location determine where the
mortises will go, so heres the place to
start.
SAW ONE STOPPED GROOVE in

each leg with a dado set. The end of the
leg is marked with lines identifying the
two face sides. Put the face side against
the fence. Re-set the fence to the other
side of the saw blade to cut the second
groove.
PUT AWAY YOUR RULER and lay

out the mortises directly from the rails.
This is much easier and more accurate
than using a bunch of numbers. Sketch
in the tenon on the end of the rail and
extend lines down onto the leg. To
position the bottom rail, make a spacer
thats the exact length of the panel
opening and place it between the rails.
THE TOP RAIL should extend about

1/32-in. above the leg. This makes your
life a whole lot easier because after glueup you are able to plane the rail to meet
the leg, rather than trying to plane the
end grain of the leg.
MORTISE THE LEGS. A mortising

machine with a tuned-up bit and chisel
makes short work of these deep
mortises. The groove locks in the chisel,
producing a mortise with perfectly
straight walls.

Having made the mortises, cut the tenons

to fit them. You wont have to measure.
Simply use the parts youve got so far. To
get started, install the dado set with all its
chippers and raise the blade the height of
the outer wall of the groove (Photo 6).
This is the same distance as the tenons
shoulder, because this is a flush joint.
Try this dado setting on a test piece
(Photo 7). Adjust the height of the dado
set until the face of the tenon is exactly in
line with the groove (Photo 8). Then cut
both ends of all the long and short rails.
Youll be revisiting this setting later, so
improvise a simple paper indicator to
record it (Photo 9).
SET THE DADO BLADE HEIGHT for

cutting the tenons. It should be even
with the groove in a leg. Fine-tune the
setting by trial and error. Its best to
start out low and work your way up.
Cutting the opposite face of the tenon

requires lowering the dado set. Leave the
fence where it is. Place a rail with its face
side up next to the blade. Lower the blade
until it lines up with the bottom wall of
the groove, just as you did before. Cut a
test piece and try it in the mortise (Photo
10). This is a finicky setting, so it will
take a number of attempts to get it right.
Record this blade height, too.
Saw each haunch on the bandsaw (Photo
11). Lay it out directly from the mortise
(Fig. A, Detail 3). The haunch serves
three purposes: It fills in the groove; adds
more gluing surface; and widens the tenon
to fight racking of the case. Its great. I
use a haunched joint in table legs, too.
Finish the legs by beveling the inside
corners (Fig. A, Detail 3). Tilt the blade

away from the fence at a 15-degree angle.
Clean up the saw marks on the jointer.
CUT A CHEEK on the face side of a

test piece. Set the saws fence to the
length of the tenon. Take two passes
across the tenons face to remove all of
the waste. Make sure the end of the rail
is tight against the fence during the
second pass.
CHECK THE ACCURACY of your cut

by holding a tight-fitting stick of wood
in the groove. Run your finger across
the tenon and stick. They should be
perfectly even.

SAVE THIS SETTING! Youll need it

for cutting tenons on the stiles. Mark
the position of your hand wheel to
record the height of the dado set. Then
lower the dado set and cut the back side
of each tenon.
SIZE THE TENON by inserting the

test piece into the mortise. If it takes a
mallet to get the tenon into the mortise,
the fit is too tight. If the tenon drops
into the mortise with ease, its too loose.
The correct fit is somewhere in
between. Adjust the height of the dado
blade to find that fit, then cut the back
side of all the tenons.
BANDSAW THE NOTCH that forms

the haunch. A fence helps keep the cut
straight, but you can also cut freehand,
following a pencil line. Clamp a board
onto the fence and raise it above the
bandsaws table. When the waste piece
falls out of the notch, it will slide
underneath the board and wont get
trapped between the blade and the
fence.
OOPS!
We accidentally cut off the haunch on
one tenon. Heres an easy fix: You can
insert a new one! Cut a dado right in
line with the tenon and glue in another
haunch.

Theres one more fussy operation to do,

and thats fitting the stiles between the
rails. You might think this is asking for
trouble, but it only takes a minor
adjustment of your fence to get it right.
The first thing to figure out is the exact
length of the stile, which includes two
tenons. Assemble the front of the chest,
without glue, by clamping together two
long rails and two legs. Measure the
opening and add the length of the two
tenons (Fig. A, Detail 6). You can do this
without a ruler by marking directly on a
stile.
JOINTS BETWEEN STILE AND

RAIL
This tenon is captured between two
grooves.
Cutting the opposite face of the tenon

requires lowering the dado set. Leave the
fence where it is. Place a rail with its face
side up next to the blade. Lower the blade
until it lines up with the bottom wall of
the groove, just as you did before. Cut a
test piece and try it in the mortise (Photo
10). This is a finicky setting, so it will
take a number of attempts to get it right.
Record this blade height, too.
Cut all the stiles to length. Then cut a
complete tenon on one end of each stile.
Because you recorded the two heights of
the dado set to make a tenon, this should
be easy. If you use all the dado chippers,
add a wooden face to your fence.
Fit the stiles to the opening when you cut
the tenons on the other end. You can finetune the stiles length between its
shoulders by moving the saws fence.

Now you can precisely mark the mortises
directly from the tenons (Fig. C and Photo
12). Take the front apart and make three
spacers the width of the panel openings.
Mark alongside the tenons on one rail,
then clamp all the rails together and
transfer these marks across them. Cut the
mortises.
You can size the panels by another
method of direct measurement using
pinch sticks (Photo 13). Theyre two
narrow sticks, each a bit shorter than the
opening. Reassemble the front with the
stiles in place. Butt one end of each stick
into opposite grooves and pinch them
together with a small spring clamp.
Wiggle the pinch sticks out of the opening
and youve got another thing itself.
Cut the panels 1/16-in. smaller in width
and height than the length of the pinch
sticks. Shape the panels with a 3/4-in.-dia.
round-nose bit on a router table equipped
with a tall fence (Fig. A, Detail 2. Also
see AW #73, p. 39 for more information
on raising panels and Sources, at right for
the bit). Sand and apply a finish to the
outside of the panels before you glue up
the case.
The bottom is notched around the legs.

Dont mess around with measuring angles
to make the notches. Heres a direct
method:
Put the whole chest together without glue
to figure out exactly how big the bottom
needs to be. Measure from the bottom of

one groove to the opposite groove as you
did for the panels. Make the bottom from
three loose boards connected by tongue
and groove joints (Fig. A, Detail 2). Cut
the bottom boards to length and width, put
them together on a flat surface and place
the chest on top of them. Scribe around
the legs onto the bottom, remove the
bottom from under the chest and cut out a
notch in each corner on the bandsaw (Fig.
A).
Glue up the top and cut it to fit the chest.
Rout a molding on the front edge and
ends, but not the back (Fig. A, Detail 1).
LAY OUT THE MORTISES in the

long rail directly from the stiles. Cut
spacers that are the width of the panel
opening and place them between the
stiles. Then draw a pencil line along the
side of each tenon.
PINCH STICKS DIRECTLY

MEASURE the size of the panels.
Misreading a ruler can get you in
trouble, but these sticks are always
accurate.

Glue up the front and back. Plane down

the top rails so theyre even with the legs
(Photo 14). Cut the double-deep mortises
for the hinges on the back rail (Fig. D).
Set in the dowel pins and cut them off
flush (Photo 15). Plane, scrape or sand all
the joints flush.
Glue up the entire case (Photo 16). Plane
the top of the side rails even with the legs.
To install the hinges, lay the case on its
back supported by boards that are the
same thickness as the top. Butt the top up
to the back rail and mark the positions of
the hinges (Photo 17). Install the top and
add spring-loaded lid supports (see
Sources, below) to prevent the top from
squashing a kids fingers as it closes.
PLANE THE TOP RAIL flush with the

leg after you glue up the chests front
and the back. This beats planing down
the end of a leg to meet a rail!
Cherry naturally darkens with age,

especially under a thin finish. Patience,
rather than stain, will yield the best
results. If you oil your chest it will turn a
beautiful deep color in a year or two. You
can leave the interior of your chest
unfinished, or use shellac or wax to avoid
unpleasant odors.
CUT OFF THE DOWEL PINS that

lock the joints with a Japanese-style
flush-cutting saw (see Sources, below).
Its teeth have no set, so they wont cut
into the wood around the pins. Glue the
pins in the front and back assemblies
and saw them flush before you glue up
the entire case.
SLIP IN THE BOTTOM BOARDS

during the final glue up. They fit in a
groove that goes all the way around the
inside of the chest. Tongue and groove
joints hold the boards together so you
dont have to glue them to each other.
POSITION THE HINGES on the top

and mark the screw holes with an awl.
Each hinge sits snugly in a mortise
thats as deep as the thickness of a
doubled-over hinge, so theres no need
to mortise the top.
DETAIL OF HINGE MORTISE

The mortise is as deep as a closed hinge.
Previous Page
American Woodworker: Shop Solutions
Every shop needs a work table or two. In cramped shops, its great to have the table
the right height for assembly, as well as infeed and outfeed support for power tools.
Heres a unit that has adjustable height, compensates for uneven floors, and even
stores easily. Much of it can be made from scrap hardwood thats lying around your
shop.
This shop solution was submitted by Michael and Christine Powell, Bellingham,
Wash.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/199912/table/index.html (1 of 2)26.09.2004 23:24:31
Turn wasted space into storage space.

In my cramped little shop, every square foot counts. With that in mind I designed this
cabinet to fit in the wasted space under the table of my floor-model drill press. The top
drawer holds (vertically) all the twist bits and brad-point bits a person could ever
accumulate, and the lower drawers hold sanding drums, spade bits (horizontally), plug
cutters and all the rest of the drill press paraphernalia. If you ever need to drill into
something 4-ft. thick, the cabinet slides out easily.
I based the design on the Roll-Around Shop Cabinet that appeared in AW #72, p. 79.
An important feature of this cabinet is the drawers that have extra-long slides to give you
full-extension. I sized my cabinet to fit my Delta 17-in. drill press, model 17-900 and
made it all from birch plywood. The total cost was $75.
To build the cabinet, cut all parts, including the top cutout. Then screw and glue parts A
and B. Screw on the sides, then attach slides and top. Nail and glue together the drawer
boxes, then nail on the bottoms to square them up. Now attach the slides and install them
in the cabinet. Using double-stick tape, attach the drawer fronts so there is a uniform gap
all around. Screw on the fronts, attach pulls and bingo, youve got storage space.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200002/drillpress/index.html (1 of 3)26.09.2004 23:25:22
Submitted by Jean Bartholome, Dundas, South Dakota.

CUTTING LIST
Overall Dimensions: 151/2 x 21 D x 32 H
PART
NAME
QTY
DIMENSIONS
Inner brace
3/4 x 14 x 12
Back
3/4 x 11-1/2 x 28-1/4
Side
3/4 x 20 x 31-1/4
Top
3/4 x 17-1/2 x 21
Drawer side
1/2 x (7, 5, 5, 5)* x 11
Drawer end
1/2 x (7, 5, 5, 5)* x 12
G Drawer bottom 4
1/4 x 11 x 13
Drawer front
4 1/2 x (8, 6, 6, 6)* x 15-1/2
Bit rack
3/4 x 11-3/4 x 9-3/4
Toe-kick
3 7/8 x 15-1/2
All parts plywood or MDF

*Four drawers are required: three smaller ones and
one larger one.
MATERIALS LIST
3/4 Birch plywood or MDF 63 x 48
HARDWARE
Eight 20 single-extension bottom-mount drawer
slides; e.g. Alfit 878-197; $6.25/pr. from
Woodworker's Suply (800) 645-9292.
2-1/2 utility screws, brads, four drawer pulls, eight
#8 x 1 round-head screws
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200002/drillpress/index.html (2 of 3)26.09.2004 23:25:22
American Woodworker
Welcome to the American Woodworker Library,

where we post previously published articles from the
pages of the magazines - and give you FREE
ACCESS to download them and print them fo your
DIY library at home! You can also view our Article
Index, which includes information on ordering back
issues.
Projects
Craftsman Frame
Farm Table
Frame & Panel Hope Chest
Keepsake Box
Lighted Quilt Hanger
Mobile Router Center
Modern Hoosier Cabinet
Storage
Table Hockey
Three Projects for Gardeners
Tile-Topped Outdoor Table
Two-Part Bookcase
Product Tests
6-in. Jointers
Benchtop Mortisers
Mid-Size Routers
New Tools For 2006
Sources
Well-Equipped Shop Special:
Best New Tools for 2004
Shop Projects
Bandsaw Resawing
Collapsible Work Table
Drill Press Cabinet
Flammables Cabinet
Techniques & Skills

12 Tips for Better Sharpening
Coved Doors on the Tablesaw
Fast Furniture Fixes
Lock Rabbet Drawer Joinery
Mortising on the Drill Press
Router-Made Drawer and
Door Pulls
Tablesaw Box Joints
Tablesawn Circles
The Virtues of No. 1 Common
The Way Wood Works: Knots
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American Woodworker
More Articles
Tablesawn Circles
Tablesaw Box Joints
Keepsake Box
by Mac Wentz
As the holidays approach, my thoughts turn to

how I can weasel out of gift shopping. And
this year I have the perfect scheme: While the
malls are jammed with poor saps, I'll be in my
shop blissfully building these boxes for
everyone on my list.
When they marvel at the elegant keyed joinery at the corners,

I won't mention how fast and easy these boxes are to make.
Making the jigs and resawing lumber takes a few hours, but
once you're set up you can churn out three or four boxes in a
day. There's no need to mention how cheap the materials are
either. If you stick with common species like oak, cherry or
maple, each box will cost only $10 to $15.
Tools and Materials

The box shown at left is made from 3/8-in.-thick wood, so I used a bandsaw for
resawing and a planer to take the wood to final thickness. For more information
about resawing, check out "Bandsaw Resawing," AW #81, August 2000, page 46.
If you don't have a bandsaw and planer you can also mail order 3/8-in. wood (see
Sources at end of story). You'll also need a tablesaw, belt sander, router table, 1/8in. and 3/4-in. straight router bits and some 3-in. spring clamps.
Start With Grain Selection

Grain pattern has a big influence on the appearance of a small project like this box,
so don't just rip up boards and leave it to chance. Begin by making paper windows
that let you preview the look of the box parts (Photo 1). I generally use finer,
American Woodworker
straighter-grained material for the ends and sides and a more dramatic pattern for
the top. This is not a hard and fast rule, so experiment until you get something you
like. Grain pattern for the bottom isn't critical, since it doesn't show. For the keys I
use a different color wood so they contrast with the box.
Cut the Sides

I strongly recommend you miter the box sides on a tablesaw using a tablesaw sled
(Photo 2). The every-time accuracy of a well-made tablesaw sled is hard to beat. In
fact, I built a small one just for building these boxes. For more information on making
a sled, see "The Ultimate Shop-Built Crosscut Sled," AW #75, October 1999, page
38 (for reprints, click here). Cut the parts for the ends and sides and make an extra
set to test your machine setups later on.
Next cut the dadoes in the ends and sides for the bottom (Fig. A, page 55). The
dadoes should be wide enough to provide an easy fit for the bottom.
Now select two ends and two sides that have the least attractive grain and mark
them "GP" for guinea pig. These GP parts are the first to go through each step in the
machining process and hopefully the only ones to suffer from setup mistakes.
Beginning with the GP parts, rout the relief in the bottom of the ends and sides to
form the corner feet using a 3/4-in. straight router bit in your router table (Photo 3).
PHOTO 1:
Lay out the box parts exactly where
you want them using a paper window.
The window helps you see the grain
patterns for each part before you cut
them to final size.
PHOTO 2:
Miter the box ends and sides on your
tablesaw with the help of a tablesaw
sled. Miter one end of all the pieces
first. Then clamp a stop block to the
sled when cutting the other ends.
American Woodworker
PHOTO 3:
Create feet on the sides and end by
using a 3/4-in. straight bit in your
router table. Set up a pair of stop
blocks to limit the length of the cut.
To prevent the grain from chipping
out at the feet, make three passes,
raising the bit about 1/8 in. after each
pass.
123
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(3 of 4)2005.12.11 01:31:34
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American Woodworker
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Copyright 2003 American Woodworker Magazine, Inc.
American Woodworker: Bookcase
By Tim Johnson
Thrill the garden lover in your

family with one (or more!) of these
easy-to-make projects.
Before you set aside your push sticks and
dust mask for the season, make something
to enjoy all summer. Each one of these
projects takes only about a day to build,
once youve got all the materials. Theyre
designed for outdoor usemade from rotresistant woods and assembled with
weatherproof glue and rust-resistant
fasteners. Protected with a finish or not,
theyll enhance your garden or deck for
years to come.
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200206/thismonth/main.html (1 of 2)2005.12.11 01:31:54
Next Page
Three Projects for Gardeners Nine-Pot Plant Stand
Nine-Pot Plant Stand (continued) Vine Trellis Vine Trellis (continued)
Patio Planter Patio Planter (continued)
Project of the Month: Three Projects for Gardeners Page 69 June 2002
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200206/thismonth/main.html (2 of 2)2005.12.11 01:31:54
This sturdy little stand is perfect for your

deck or patio. Its got room for your
favorite plants and it doesnt take up a lot
of space. When the weather gets cold, you
can easily bring it, and a bit of
summertime, indoors.
Theres no complicated joinery, just glue
and screws. The legs simply chase each
other around the base, like a pinwheel. The
arms follow suit, but theyre offset, so
your plants have plenty of room to grow.
Once you make templates for the legs and
arms and the jig for routing the discs,
youll have the stand together in no time.
For tools, youll need a tablesaw, jigsaw,
router and a drill, plus clamps and a file or
rasp. If you use construction-grade lumber,
you wont need a planer or jointer. Rip the
1-1/2-in.-square column from a straight,
clear 2x4 and use 1x stock for everything
else. We went whole-hog, making ours out
of mahogany. We spent about $100 for
rough stock and milled it ourselves.
1. Mill all the parts to thickness. Cut

the column (A), legs (B) and arms
(E) to their finished dimensions.
2. Make templates for the leg and arm
profiles (Fig. C).
3. Rough out the legs and arms with a
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200206/thismonth/page2.html (1 of 4)2005.12.11 01:32:12
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
jigsaw or bandsaw, about 1/8-in.

oversize. Smooth the profiles with a
rasp and sandpaper, a sanding drum
mounted in your drill press, or an
oscillating spindle sander.
Position each leg on the column
and drill pilot holes for the screws
(Photo 1). Be sure to mark the legs
so theyll go back on the same
column face during final assembly.
Round over the edges of the legs,
except for portions that support the
discs or go against the column (Fig.
A). On the column, stop the roundovers 1-in. away from the joints.
Fasten the legs to the column with
weatherproof glue and stainless
steel screws.
Attach the column support block
(C).
Glue the triangular-shaped arm
blocks (D), cut from your leftover
column stock, to the column (Photo
2). If a stuck-on block keeps sliding
down the column, pull it off,
remove the excess glue and stick it
back on. Before gluing on the
second pair, plane the first pair
flush.
Attach the arms, following the
same procedure you used for
fastening the legs (Steps 4 through
6). Make sure the arms wrap
around the column in the same
direction as the legs, otherwise the
discs wont be properly staggered.
Make a jig to rout the discs (Part
F, Fig. A and Photo 3), cut them to
rough size and rout them (Fig. B).
Then round over the edges.
On all discs but one, drill out both
holes left by the jig for the
mounting screws. Countersink the
Exploded View
The legs and arms are offset to
stagger the pots and maximize
growing room for your plants.
holes on one side. Drill out only the

center hole on the disc thatll go on
top of the column. Position the
discs on the legs and arms, drill
pilot holes, and fasten
them.
Detail 1: Optional Pot Spike
12. To keep your plants from getting

blown off their discs by the wind,
you may want to install pot spikes
(G) in the arms and legs (Fig. A,
Detail 1). Drill out the discs
center holes, as well as the
corresponding screw holes in the
legs and arms, with a 3/8-in. bit.
Then glue sharpened mahogany or
white oak dowels into the arms
and legs. Slip the discs over the
dowels and fasten them with the
remaining screws. Stake your
plants on the dowels, using the
drainage hole in the bottom of the
pot. Provide air space between the
pot and the disc by using a plastic
"deck protector" (available at
garden stores).
Previous Page
Next Page
Three Projects for Gardeners Nine-Pot Plant Stand

Nine-Pot Plant Stand (continued) Vine Trellis Vine Trellis (continued)
Patio Planter Patio Planter (continued)
Project of the Month: Three Projects for Gardeners June 2002
American Woodworker
More Articles
Tablesawn Circles
Tablesaw Box Joints
Tile-Topped Outdoor Table

This sturdy white-oak table will last a
lifetime and won't blow over
by Jock and Susan Holmen
Before You Start

Buy your ceramic tile before you build this table, because the actual size of tiles can
vary. We purchased a single 12-in.-square x 1/4-in.-thick ceramic tile at our local
home center. The actual size was closer to 11-7/8-in. square. The tile is undersize to
allow a grout joint in normal applications, but the amount can vary. We used white
oak for its natural resistance to rot (see Sources, page 4). Other wood, such as
mahogany, teak, cedar or ipe, will also withstand the elements.
Taper The Legs

Start by sawing the 8/4 lumber for the legs (A) 1/8-in. oversize (Photo 1). Then joint,
plane and cut to the final size (see Cutting List).
Next, mark an X at the top of two adjacent sides on each leg. These two marked
sides will be tapered. Use these Xs to help you keep track of the tapers. The tapers
are subtle and it's possible to confuse them with the untapered outer sides (see
Oops! page 4). Also, the legs are untapered where they join the aprons (B, Figure
A).
Mark lines for the tapers on each leg and saw the taper on the bandsaw (Photo 2).
Stay about 1/16 in. away from your pencil line. After the first taper is cut, reattach
scrap with masking tape and cut the second taper. Remove the bandsaw marks with
a pass or two over your jointer (Photo 3).
American Woodworker
PHOTO 1:
Rip thick lumber for the legs to rough
size on the tablesaw. Always use a
pushstick when cutting narrow boards.
Joint, plane and crosscut the legs to final
size.
PHOTO 2:
Bandsaw two tapers on adjacent
sides of each leg. Saw each taper
about 1/16 in. oversize. The tapers are
subtle, so mark an X at the top of each
one to help you keep track of which
surface is tapered.
PHOTO 3:
Smooth the tapered sides with your
jointer. A freehand bandsaw cut can be
fairly uneven, so smoothing might take
two passes. Feed the legs top-end first.
Use a push block and stick to guide the
leg.
1234
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American Woodworker
More Articles
Tablesawn Circles
Tablesaw Box Joints
Lighted Quilt Hanger

by Randy Johnson
Cut and Assemble the Parts

Start by calculating the size of the parts you need for your quilt according to the
Cutting List. You can machine your material to final width and thickness at this
time, but don't cut the pieces to final length yet.
Next rout the profile on the edge and cut the groove on the back of the board you
plan to use for the valance pieces (A and B, Fig. A; Photo 1). Then miter them to
final length and cut biscuit slots in the ends (Photo 2). Do a test assembly of the
three valance parts and double-check the length for the light board (C).
PHOTO 1:
Rout the profiles on the valance and
trim boards before you cut them to
final length. Two common router bits
are all you need to make this project:
a 3/8-in. cove bit and a 3/8-in beading
bit.
American Woodworker
PHOTO 2:
Cut biscuits in the mitered ends of the
valance boards. Position the slots
near the miter's inside edge. This
prevents the slot from coming
through the board's face. The board
that the lights mount on will fit into
the groove in the back of the valance
boards.
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American Woodworker: Two-Part Bookcase
By Tom Caspar
Heres a big bookcase that you can
build in a small shop.
Building a tall bookcase can stretch the
limits of a small shop. We all know that
big boards can be a bear to handle and
glue up, so Ive taken an old
Scandinavian design and sliced it up into
bite-size pieces. My solution is to break
the bookcase into two interlocking
sections that require only short and
narrow stuff. Not to mention, thats the
only way I could get it out of my shop
and up the basement stairs!
Biscuits join the shelves and sides. Its a
snap to put together wide boards at right
angles with a plate joiner. But biscuits
alone arent enough to make a stiff case,
so Ive added backboards that lock the
whole bookcase into a rigid unit.
Rather than splurge on the best quality

lumber simply to make shelves, you can
save money on this project by using a
lower grade of hardwood, No. 1
Common. Youll find many good boards
that are too short or narrow to make the
best grade but are perfect for this
bookcase. I used No. 1 Common birch
because its inexpensive (about $1.75 per
bd. ft.), a light color (the case looks less
massive) and stiff enough to support
heavy books. Youll need about 75 bd. ft.
(If you build with pre-planed, 3/4-in.

boards that have one straight edge, you
can get by without a jointer.) A crosscut
sled for your tablesaw isnt required but it
sure makes life easier (see AW #75, page
http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200009/bookcase/main.html (1 of 2)2005.12.11 01:33:55
American Woodworker: Two-Part Bookcase
for a total cost of $130.

As an alternative you can use 3/4-in.thick boards from a home center. Pick
straight ones, glue them together and
plane them to 5/8 in. I built a prototype
bookcase this way and it worked just
fine. To tell the truth, I preferred its slim
look to one made of thicker wood.
However, I found that 5/8-in. thick
shelves bend under a lot of weight, so
they wouldnt be suitable for a set of
encyclopedias. (For more on designing
strong shelves, see Practical Design, AW
#75, October 1999, page 75.)
Youll need the three basic machines for
processing solid wood to make this
bookcase from rough lumber: a tablesaw,
a jointer and a planer.
38 for plans). In addition, youll need a

router, plate joiner, bandsaw or jigsaw, an
accurate framing square (see Q&A, page
10) and eight pipe clamps to hold the
case together during glue up.
Any white or yellow glue works fine for
the biscuit joints, because both glues
contain the water needed to swell the
biscuits. Use a special yellow glue with a
long open time (see Sources, page 63) if
youre going to glue up the cases by
yourself and dont like working like a
speed demon!
Do you have a portable planer?
Great, because we've kept every part less
than 12-in. wide. That means you can
flatten the sides and shelves with your
planer.
Next Page
Two-Part Bookcase Exploded View of Bookcase
Preparing & Gluing Milling The Sides & Shelves
Fitting The Backboards & Final Assembly
Feature Article Two-Part Bookcase Page 57 October 2000
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American Woodworker: Two-Part Bookcase: Exploded View of Bookcase
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American Woodworker: Two-Part Bookcase: Exploded View of Bookcase
Safety Note: Anchor this bookcase to the wall with screws through the
backboards so it cant accidentally tip over.
CUTTING LIST
Dimensions: 88" H x 36" W x 11" D
Part Name
Qty. Dimensions (TxWxL) Comments
Upper Unit
A
Rear Board
Middle Board
Front Board
7/8" x 3-1/2" x 52-1/4" Glue together, thickness to

7/8" x 5-1/2" x 51"
3/4" and trim bottom end so
overall length is 52."
7/8" x 2" x 28-1/2"
Back
3/4" x 5-1/2" x 50"

7/8" x 3-1/2" x 36"
Lower Unit
E
Rear Board
Middle Board
Front Board
Glue together, thickness to

7/8" x 5-1/2" x 37-1/4" 3/4" and trim middle board to fit
notch in upper unit.
7/8" x 2" x 36"
Back
3/4" x 5-1/2" x 32-1/2"
Shelves
J
Wide Shelves
3/4" x 1" x 34-1/2"
Narrow Shelves 3
3/4" x 8" x 34-1/2"
Glue up from 7/8" boards,

thickness to 3/4" and trim to
length.
Sources
Garrett Wade
(800) 221-2942:
Special Slo-Set Glue, 62J04.01, 1pt., $7.

Feature Article Two-Part Bookcase October 2000
American Woodworker: Two-Part Bookcase: Preparing & Gluing
For the sides and backboards, select

boards that dont have a pronounced
twist. Twisted wood isnt worth the
hassle. Rough cut your boards 1 in. over
final length and 1/4 in. over final width.
Set your jointer to remove 1/32 in. Run
one face over the jointer only a couple of
times. Its OK if this doesnt clean up the
whole board.
Run the other face of the boards through
a portable planer until most of the rough
spots are gone and the boards are all
about 7/8-in. thick. Dont sweat it if they
end up a bit thinner. Then joint one edge,
rip the boards 1/32-in. over final width
and joint the second edge. Pay attention
to boards B and Ftheyve got to be
exactly the same width. Square one end
and trim the boards to exact length using
a crosscut sled and a stopper arm (Photo
1).
TRIM LONG AND WIDE BOARDS on

your tablesaw with a crosscut sled. A
sled is easier to use and more
accurate than a standard miter gauge.
Clamp a hooked stick onto the fence
to act as a stopper arm. This ensures
that all your boards come out the
same length.
The upper and lower sides are composed

of three boards that form a tongue and
notch (Fig. F). Theres no trick to getting
the sides to nest together perfectly. Its
simply a matter of being careful at glue
up.
Start with the upper sides. Lay out the
ogee curves on boards C and the cutouts
on the top end of boards B (Figs. C and
D). Cut out the curves on the bandsaw
RIP THE STEPPED BOARD (C) on the

bandsaw. A simple fence helps you
make a straight cut. Stop the cut at
the top of the ogee curve and
(Photo 2).
withdraw the board. Remove the

fence and cut out the ogee.
Dry clamp boards A, B and C together.

Boards A and B are flush at the top.
Boards A and C are flush at the bottom.
Check both ends with a straightedge, then
draw an alignment mark across all three
boards (Photo 3).
Glue the upper sides together. Getting a
perfect alignment end-to-end drove me
nuts until I adopted the method of
rubbing the boards together first, before
clamping (see Q&A, page 8). Glue the
lower sides the same way. Here all three
boards are flush at the bottom.
GLUE THE UPPER CASE SIDES from
1-in.-thick rough boards that are
planed to 7/8-in. thick. This leaves
some untouched low spots, but thats
OK. Align the outside boards so their
bottoms are even.
Detail of Top Cutout

Its easier to cut this with a jigsaw than a
bandsaw because its hard to balance
the board on a bandsaws table.
Connection Between Top and Bottom

The top half of the bookcase fits snugly
onto the bottom half. The lower
backboards (H) prevent the top half from

shifting side-to-side, and the notched
sides lock in the top, front-to-back.
Details of Ogee Curve and Shelf

Molding
This is a 50-percent reduction. Make a
copy, double its size on a photocopy
machine, paste it onto an index card and
cut it out.

Feature Article Two-Part Bookcase October 2000
American Woodworker
More Articles
Tablesawn Circles
Tablesaw Box Joints
Fast Furniture Fixes

Sometimes fixing something old is as
satisfying as making something new.
by Mac Wentz
Major furniture repair
often involves
disassembling the
piece and putting it
back together. Sounds simple enough: knock things
apart and glue them back together. But anyone
who's tried this knows that it never goes that
smoothly. This article will show you some slick ways
to deal with the most common and frustrating
aspects of the job. Plus, we'll show you some
shortcuts that might help you avoid disassembly altogether. Just keep in mind that
these methods aren't meant for fine antiques. If you suspect that a piece of furniture
is especially old or valuable, have an expert take a look (see "Antiques-Repair &
Restore" in the Yellow Pages).
1. Twist out damaged screws with an extractor

There are lots of ways to attack screws with damaged or broken-off heads.
But in most cases, drilling into the screw and using a screw extractor is the most
foolproof method. Extractors come in sizes small enough to remove 3/32-in.-dia.
screws and are available at home centers for $3 to $5. Centering a drill bit on the
jagged end of a broken screw can make you curse. So begin by drilling a starter hole
with a tiny bit (1/16 in. or so), which is easier to control.
Drill a hole in the screw shank. No need
to drill deep-1/8 to 1/4 in. is usually deep
enough.
American Woodworker
Remove the broken screw by inserting

the extractor and turning
counterclockwise. The extractor will lock
into the hole and twist out the screw.
Drill holes to get a grip on nails

Some nails are easy to deal with.
Sometimes you can separate the parts
and then remove the nails. Other times
you might be able to drive a nail right
through the part and out the other side.
But in some cases there's no alternative
to pulling them. And that means you
need a way to grab the nail's head. If you
can't get hold of the nail's head, drill
holes-just large enough for needle-nose
pliers-on opposite sides of the nail
shank. Run the bit right along the shank
and bore as deep as the shank, if
possible. This will help to loosen the nail.
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3. Hollow out, then chip out
broken tenons
When half of a dowel or tenon stays in
its hole, you'll be tempted to grab a bit
of the same size and completely drill it
out. But this is almost certain to leave
you with an enlarged, off-center hole.
Instead, use a bit that's about 1/8-in.
smaller than the socket. Then break
out a section of the remaining
material and the rest will chip out
easily. A small carver's gouge is the
perfect tool for the job, but a narrow
chisel or even a sharpened
screwdriver will work, too.
4. Disassemble with a hammer

Despite the variety of spreading
clamps and prying tools available,
hammers are still the favorite
disassembly tools of furniture repair
pros. Some use rubber mallets, others
like dead-blow hammers, which have
heads filled with sand or metal shot to
eliminate bounce-back. Either way,
you'll need a collection of wooden
blocks, cardboard or carpet scraps to
prevent surface damage. Cover your
workbench with carpet or a heavy
blanket and swing away. Try to knock
joints straight apart. Some twisting
and wrenching is inevitable, but keep
it to a minimum and you'll avoid
breaking joinery.
American Woodworker
5. Inject epoxy into loose joints

This is a fix that makes furniturerepair purists cringe, but let's face it:
some pieces just aren't worth the time
it takes to make a first-class repair.
Epoxy injection is fast and easy, but
also a bit of a gamble. It doesn't work
every time and if it doesn't, you're
stuck with a loose joint that's almost
impossible to pull apart and reglue.
The goal is to force epoxy into the
pocket between the end of the tenon
and the bottom of the mortise or
socket. That way, epoxy will flow into
gaps around the tenon. The hole you
drill into the pocket should be sized
so that the tip of your syringe seals
tightly when inserted. As you apply
pressure to the syringe, wiggle the
loose part so epoxy flows all around
the tenon. You'll get the best results
using low-viscosity epoxy that will
inject and flow easily (see Sources,
page 55).
6. Heat and scrape glue off tenons

New glue doesn't adhere very well to old glue, so you have to get rid of the old
stuff before reassembly. Turn a heat gun on old glue, and it reacts just like old
paint, becoming soft, gummy and easy to scrape off. Just remember that a
heat gun is designed to destroy finishes and can even ignite wood. Have a wet
rag handy to keep things cool.
Shield the nearby finish with a broad
putty knife as you apply heat to the old
glue. If your heat gun is adjustable, start
out using the lowest heat setting.
Scrape away the softened glue

immediately. It will cool and harden in
just a few seconds. Any leftover glue
residue can be removed with light
sanding.
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More Articles
Tablesawn Circles
Tablesaw Box Joints
Mobile Router Center

by George Vondriska
This rolling router center has onboard storage for all your router components, folds
into a tidy package, serves as an extra work surface and rolls out of the way when
you're done!
Use it!
American Woodworker
Move it!
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Speaker Stand with Hidden

Speaker Stand with Hidden

Start with Straight-Grained Wood

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Hang the Door

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Techniques for Tighter,

Speaker Stand with Hidden

Make those maddening miters more

Miter joints provide one main advantage over

Make Micro Adjustments with a

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Knock-Off Blocks for Long

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Techniques for Tighter, Faster, Stronger Miter

Guides for Perfect Edging

The Touch Test

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Join Miters First, Rout Later

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Grain Match Matters

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by Sue Brunclik, Ernest Blair, Tim Johnson

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Pantry Door Tool Cabinet