STEPPER MOTOR IDLE CONTROL FOR SEAT IBIZA CORDOBA

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STEPPER MOTOR IDLE CONTROL FOR SEAT IBIZA CORDOBA
THIS IS AFTER MARKET PART
PART IS LOCATED ON THE THROTTLE BODY
THIS ITEM IS LOCATED AS NUMBER 09 ON THE 2ND DIAGRAM.
THIS SENSOR IS USED TO SEND SIGNAL TO THE ECU REGARDING SPEED AND ACCELERATION.
Carbon can build up on an idle air-control valve, making it stick. When it sticks, it cannot
control the idle of the car--it might make the car idle at a very high RPM or, in most cases,
make the car stall at a low RPM. Cleaning an idle air-control valve can keep you from buying a
new part, but only certain idle air-control valves can be cleaned. The idle air-control valve
must have a spring-operated valve for cleaning to make it work.
REASONS FOR BUYING:
1.
2.
3.
4.

BROKEN SENSOR / JAMMED VALVE

CAR NOT PICKING UP SPEED
FAULT SHOWN ON ECU
DIAGNNOSTICS SHOWS THIS IS THE FAUL

1.4 Golf fluctuating idle and poor starting 04-03-2012,02:15 AM

I have a 94 1.4 Golf and have noticed a growing tendency for it's idle to fluctuate and creep up to about a 1000
when the engine's warmed up, instead of the usual rock steady 8200.
When starting from cold, the engine also doesn't seem to catch as it once did, and sometimes starts with a late kick
which shakes the car.
Thinking I might have an air leak I tried fitting new vacuum pipes but this didn't work, so I now think the problem is
with the idle speed control valve (stepper motor type) which is not responding quickly enough when starting.
But before I buy a new ICV I'd like to know if the following information is correct?,
"When fitting a new idle valve, it is very very important to thoroughly clean the housing prior to fitting the new
valve.
After fitting the new valve, you should also go through a simple reset procedure:
1. Switch ignition on (do not start engine) Leave for 10 seconds, then switch ignition off.
2. Switch ignition back on for 10 seconds, then switch off.
3. Switch ignition back on for 10 seconds, then switch off.
4. Start engine and take vehicle for drive going through gears.
The idle speed should settle to the required speed."

Manc
Golf fluctuating idle and poor starting 04-03-2012,10:27 PM
None of those systems is like yours, the stepper motor simply keeps the throttle butterfly in a position that will
maintain the idle, not by separate air bypass control.

Dark was that day when Diesel conceived his grim engine that begot you, vile invention, more vicious, more
criminal than the camera even, metallic monstrosity, bale and bane of our culture, chief woe of our
Commonweal. How dare the Law prohibit hashish and heroin yet license your use, who inflate all weak
inferior egos? Their addicts only do harm to their own lives: you poison the lungs of the innocent, your din
dithers the peaceful, and on choked roads hundreds must daily die by chance-medley. Nimble technicians,
surely you should hang your heads in shame. Your wit works mighty wonders, has landed men on the
Moon, replaced brains by computers, and can smithy a "smart" bomb. It is a crying scandal that you
cannot take the time or be bothered to build us, what sanity knows we need, an odorless and noiseless staid
little electric brougham.
High idle on a 95' 1.8GL 14-02-2010,01:18 PM
Engine code is ABS.
I've not done any work on my car this month but suddenly it's idling quite high. Upon starting the engine, it idles at
1200rpm, give it some throttle and it will stay stuck at 2000-2200rpm. Changing up the gears usually reduces the
revs but not always. I've changed the spark plugs and air filter as they where due anyway but did not resolve the
idle issue.
Any help on what could be causing the issue?
Update: on closer inspection, I've discovered that the rubber (intermediate flange?) between throttle body and inlet
manifold gasket has cracked and become completely detached, possibly caused by the extremely cold weather.
- does anyone know the part code for the intermediate flange and where online I could buy one
- is it safe to continue to drive with the throttle body simply resting on the inlet manifold without a proper enclosed
seal?
Happened to me over Christmas but GSF and ECP didn't stock them. I get discount at VW and got mine for 38.
Mine is a 95 GL with an ADZ engine code so my part number may be different? 050129761H

Either way it seems to be a dealer only part.

As for is it safe, my car didn't start because the split was so bad but it would run if I held it down and got someone
to crank it. Only once did it cut out when i hit a pothole, I suppose the jolt dislodged it enough not to get any fuel in.

Immobilizer reset on 2001 seat ibiza

Posted by Anonymous on Aug 23, 2013

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3 Suggested Answers
barry corrin

510 Answers

SOURCE:How to reset service light on a 58 plate Seat

Dealer would simply reset using diagnostic and charge you for it
Here is manual reset
Switch ignition off
Press and hold trip button left off speedo
Switch ignition on
Service will appear in display
Release trip button
Turn trip button to right untill [-] appears
Release trip button
Switch ignition off
Posted on Feb 03, 2010

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TDISLine

1874 Answers

SOURCE:how do i reset the

Service reset

Posted on Aug 22, 2011

VW polo coolant temperature sensor replacement

The engine coolant temperature sensor was damaged and telling the computer that the engine was hot all the
time and therefore not injecting enough fuel for it to start in cold conditions. These readings dont show on the
dash as those readings are from a different temperature sensor. Unpluging it makes the computer think the
engine is very cold and injects alot of fuel. It starts with the sensor unpluged but it uses a rediculous amount of
fuel. I got a replacement sensor from ebay for 10 and fitted it myself in ten minuites :-D VW Polo 1.4cl 6n1 8v

How to stop my Volkswagen Polo 1.4 1997 stalling?

I have a VW Polo 1.4 1997 and it keeps cutting out. It starts fine, all weathers but as soon as you drive away and then
dip the clutch to brake the idle drops so low it cuts out. Sometimes it manages to keep going the idle is up and down all
over the place as though its struggling then it begins to settle. I can be travelling along the motorway then as i approach
traffic you dip the clutch to apply the brake but unless you can get back on the throttle quickly the revs drop to a point it
cuts out. As previously mentioned sometimes it just about keeps going, the ignition lights just begins to come on but it
picks up again and it settles again. I checked the plus and they appear ok, i renewed the air filter at the beginning of the
week and it helped but its worse than ever now. Any ideas..
Thanks

Best Answer Asker's Choice

Ruski answered 8 years ago

Does this happen during Heat, make sure the Temps are normal
you will need to have a mechanic verify that the fuel pressure
regulator is faulty. If this is indeed the case, have it replaced.
First off, an engine that stalls while driving is generally having
a fuel problem... specifically, a lack of fuel.
Next, as you indicated in it's profile, this vehicle is equipped
with fuel injection. All fuel injected engines have something
called a "fuel pressure regulator". Its purpose is to maintain
fuel pressure to each of the fuel injectors. Any problem with
this device will result in a fuel starved engine and, of course,
a fuel starved engine will stall.
Source:
AutoTech,
Asker's Rating & Comment

Think your right, i have just tried some injector cleaner and it seems to be helping so think i am on the right track
thanks

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Alicia D answered 8 years ago

Dead simple. I have a golf about the same age that had the same problem. After i warmed and the choke
switched off it occasionally cut out because it was idling at about 200 which is too low. It's as simple as
adjusting a screw under the bonnet (hood to the americans). At the end of the acelerator cable which should be

attached somewhere under or near the air filter (right hand side of the filter as you look at it it think, not sure on
your car though). there is a cam that the accelerator cable is attached to that rotates as the cable is tightened,
i'e as you accelerate. Somewhere here the is a little screw you can adjust to tighten the cable and therefore put
a little more fuel into the idling engine. It's a 5 minute job. This is by far the most common cause of cars cutting
out. If this doesn't solve it then there may be a probelm with tyou fuel/air mixture or fuel pump. that would
require a mechanic to look but it's more likely to be a slack cable. Hope that helps! VW's rule!
Source(s):
I'm almost 100% sure it's just the cable. Your symptoms were exactly the same as mine. I thought i was alone!
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Ojibwehaynesmanualmechanic answered 8 years ago

1. I would look at the MAP sensor and spray it with electrical component cleaning spray ( starting fluid will work
too). I'm not talking about the connectors, but the little sensor wires on the inside.
2. Check the plugs, wires and distributor if it has one. Are the plugs gapped correctly? Did you performany work
on those recently?
3. Check the TPS.
If this doesn't help, than there may be a leaky gasket or egr failure problem.
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restfullone answered 8 years ago

Look at the mounting of the carb its sitting on a rubber looking block polo's have a habit of cracking around the
mounting plate letting in air thus weak mix i had the same problem.So take the air filter off and try to see if its
cracked.
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thejedi answered 8 years ago

Hi, take it to a garage. It just requires a simple adjustment that will cost you about 30-40. Any more than that
and walk away!
REPLACING THE SPARK PLUGS AND SPARK PLUG WIRES ON A MKIV VR6 12V
The following procedure will outline the steps to replace the spark plugs or spark plug wires on a MKIV VR6. Over time,
installed spark plugs will deteriorate or have an excessive amount of carbon buildup, causing decreased fuel efficiency and
increased engine wear. The newer platinum plugs will last long beyond their expected lifetime, but that does not mean they
should not be changed. The plug wires themselves are typically good for the lifetime of the car, but I would change them at
around 100,000 miles. You do not have to change them if you do not want to.
The procedure was based on a '00 MKIV Jetta GLX 12v VR6, engine code AFP, however the procedure should be valid for
any VR6 12v engine.
Please be careful when performing the below steps. I always label all my loose parts or place the small ones in plastic bags
and label them so I know where they go.
It took me approximately 1 hour to do the entire job. Depending on how good you are with tools, it may take you more or
less time.
First, for the parts list. I bought my spark plug cables at http://www.ecstuning.com, but I could not find the spark plugs I
wanted there so I bought them at Advanced Auto Parts.
Parts
1) Set of 6 spark plug wires ($91.76 at ECSTuning.com, optional)
2) Set of 6 spark plugs - I bought NGK Iridiums @ $6.25 each from Advanced Auto Parts, you may want to go with OEM
b/c they are cheaper
Tools
1) Torque wrench (low range)
2) 5/8" spark plug socket (or 5/8" deep socket)
3) 12" ratchet extension
4) ratchet to fit your extender and socket
5) Torx-35 bit or small flathead screwdriver
6) Needle-nose pliers
7) Magnetic screwdriver (optional)
8) Special VW Spark plug tool remover - You only need this if your installed spark plug wires do not have a plastic looped
pull piece (more on this later)
Please be careful. Do this procedure at your own risk, I can't be held responsible if I have made a mistake in
the steps.
Examining your parts
i. Before you begin, first examine your parts to make sure you have all the parts. You should have a set of 6 spark plugs.

ii. If you are going to replace the spark plug wires as well, make you also have a full set of 6 new spark plug wires (see
step #25 for a picture)
iii. Drive your car to the location where you will be performing the maintenance. Apply the parking brake and put the
transmission in neutral. Make sure you have plenty of light in the area you will be working.
Clearing room to access the spark plugs
1. First, pop the hood and open it up.
2. Remove the two Torx-30 screws holding down the passenger side engine cover.

3. Gently remove the passenger side engine cover by pulling straight up on the cover as shown.

4. Gently pull the 3 spark plug wires from their groove in the front driver's side engine cover.

5. Remove the one Torx-30 screw holding down the front driver's side engine cover.

6. Gently remove the front driver's side engine cover by lifting up slightly on the place shown and pulling it towards the
front of the car.

7. Label your spark plug wires by finding the number from your coilpack and following the appropriate wire. I prefer to use
the firing order from the Bentley as my nomenclature. Note: it is VERY important that you label your wires properly.

Wrap a small piece of scotch tape around the wire and write the applicable number on it.

If you have OEM spark plugs, they will actually be labeled appropriately, but re-label them anyways. Look towards the boot
of the plug for the label.

8. Label your spark plugs by following your labeled wires back to their appropriate sockets. Put a small piece of scotch tape
on your intake manifold, and write the number down on the tape. Note: Do NOT attach the tape to the black engine cover,
as you will be removing it later on in the procedure.

As a backup check, make sure all the spark plugs towards the front of the car are even numbered, and the ones towards
the back are odd numbered. Double check your labeling, because the incorrect wire attached to the incorrect spark
plug could cause damage to your engine.
9. Remove the spark plug wires from their grooves in the center engine cover by gently pulling up on the plug wires.

10. Remove the four Torx-30 screws that hold the center engine cover down.

Removing and installing the new spark plugs

11. After you have triple checked your labels on the spark plug wires and the spark plug sockets, find out what type
of spark plug boot you have installed. Note: Most post 2000 VR6 model engines will have the loop-pull type of spark
plug wire.

If you do not have the loop-pull type of spark plug wire, you will need an additional tool to remove the spark plug boots
from the plugs. See Vasillalov's DIY for removing spark plugs on a 2.0 engine:http://dubpix.com/Pics/VORTEX/...G.pdf
12. If you have the loop-pull type of spark plug wire, remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs as follows: Pull up
on the loop until it extends approximately 2".

Then pull up on the loop parallel to the plane of the spark plug. It may require a bit of force, depending on how old the
wire is and when you last changed your spark plugs.

13. Continue to remove all of the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. For some of the hard to get to spark plugs, a
needle-nose pliers will be useful to extend the loop so you can get a grip on it.

14. Once all the plug wires are removed, set them to the side, ensuring your labels are still intact.

15. Pull straight up on the center engine cover to remove it, and set it aside.

16. At this point, you should be able to see each of the plugs. Before removing the plugs, you should use compressed air to
remove any sand, dirt and other debris from around the plugs. If you don't it can fall into the cylinders and cause wear,
especially the abrasives.
If you don't have an air compressor, you can use one of the computer duster cans. Just make sure to keep the can as
upright as possible and use the thin spray tube or you'll just be spraying propellant instead of air.
Assemble your ratchet, ratchet extension, and 5/8" spark plug tool (or 5/8" deep socket). It will be a slightly tight squeeze
to remove some of the plugs, so lightly spray the socket with a silicone lubricant prior to each plug removal.

17. Insert your spark plug tool into the socket for the spark plug. Note: It is important that you replace only one spark
plug at a time. This minimizes the time that your engine is exposed to the outside, preventing the entry of foreign objects.

18. Once you feel your spark plug tool bite onto the spark plug, gently remove the plug by unscrewing it counter
clockwise. If you are too aggressive you may crack the ceramic crown.
19. When the spark plug is fully unscrewed, withdraw your tool. If you have used a spark plug tool, then most likely the
rubber inside the spark plug tool will have removed the spark plug with it. If you did not, then you may need to insert a
magnetic screwdriver to remove the spark plug.

20. Remove the ratchet from the extender, and place the new spark plug in the spark plug socket. I used a magnetic
screwdriver to guide the new spark plug into the socket.
21. Insert your spark plug tool into the socket for the spark plug. Tighten the spark plug until it is finger tight.

22. From here, you need to read the directions on the new spark plug box. It should have installation instructions, ranging
anywhere from a torque setting to a number of turns to tighten. The NGK Iridium plug instructions tell you to tighten either
1/16 of a turn or 1/2 of a turn based on the type of crush washer included with the spark plug. Note: By all means
do NOT exceed 25 N-m (18.5 ft-lb). Doing so may strip the threads in your engine block, and you will not be a happy
camper.

After you thoroughly understand the directions, install the spark plug. I used a torque wrench to tighten the spark plug to
ensure I did not exceed 25 N-m.
23. Repeat the above steps 16-22 for the remaining five spark plugs. Spark plug #4 is notorious for being difficult to
remove. When withdrawing your spark plug tool for #4, twist the tool at the same time to work it out of the socket.
Installing / Replacing spark plug wires
24. If you are not replacing your spark plug wires, skip to step 31.
25. Now for the spark plug wires. It is VERY important that you do each wire one at a time so you do not confuse which
wire is which. All of the plug wires are different lengths.

26. Using your new spark plug wire, find an old plug wire that most closely matches the length of your new spark
plug wire, and label the new spark plug wire with the same number as the old one.

27. Remove the old plug wire from its location on the coilpack. It may take two hands and several minutes of wiggling to
remove the plug. I made my life easier by removing the Air Box Filter cover: Steps 21-22
of VgRt6's excellent Water Pump replacement DIY: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1154344

28. Install the new spark plug wire into the vacant location on the coilpack. As you push it into place, it may make a soft
"click" sounds, or no sound at all. Regardless, make sure that it is seated firmly on the coilpack.

29. Repeat steps 26-28 for the remaining five spark plug wires.
30. Re-install your Air Box Filter Cover (if you removed it) and set your new spark plug wires to the side. Re-install the
center engine cover with the four Torx-30 screws.
31. Now install the applicable spark plug wire to each spark plug using the labels that you have written. Slide the spark
plug boot into the spark plug socket, and press down very hard. The boot may make no noise as it seats onto the spark
plug, so tug lightly at the wire once it is installed to make sure it is seated properly.
32. Give each spark plug wire an additional push to make sure each is seated properly onto the spark plug and onto
the coil pack. Also second check to make sure the labels match up properly.
32. Re-install the front driver's side engine cover with the one Torx-30 screw.
33. Re-install the passenger's side engine cover with the two Torx-30 screws.
34. Gently reseat the spark plug wires into their grooves in the engine covers.
35. Start up the engine. It should run smoothly and cleanly. If it sounds rough or mis-fires, you have made an error
somewhere. Check all your cables to ensure they are seated properly and that your labels match up.
That's it! Email me with questions if you have any, I'd be happy to answer them!