A W 15 16 Kingpins Amsterdam Trend Analysis

A/W 15/16: Kingpins Amsterdam trend analysis
By Katy Rutherford, WGSN, 15 May 2014

This season sees a wide spectrum of denim textures, from extreme cosy fabrics, ultra-refined taffeta
shine and heavily worn vintage looks.
CLICK to return to the A/W 15/16: Kingpins index page.
TREND CHECKLIST
Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16
Key laundries adopt varied techniques from hand-stitched

repairing to state-of-the-art laser technology for a heavily vintageinspired season of strong high-low contrasts, defined whiskers
and authentic stained finishes.
Noisy character constructions continue with square weaves,
sashiko, linear twill, corduroy, and new takes on classic
herringbone.
The emergence of super-cosy and ultr- refined fabrics make this
a season of extremes. Exciting fabrics include brushed blanket
heavyweights, super-slubs and high-gloss taffeta denim.
Indigo jersey remains an important message for the season, with
chunky waffle and piqu offer contemporary jogger options while
heavyweight jersey looks take on a plush aspect.
Stand-out denim and casualwear colours reference vintage naval
denim for deep green-casts, while tea-stained tints update
neutrals.
WGSN 2014
Vintage laundry: highlow contrast, hand

repair, contemporary
patchwork, carbon
coatings, 3D creases
Character
constructions: wide
twill, herringbone,
square, extreme
texture
Extreme cosy: blanket
surfaces, refined softtouch, taffeta sheen
Indigo jersey: waffle &
pique, premium
jersey-sweat, indigo
pattern
Vintage colour: naval
green casts, teastained, black,
hyperblue, brights
SHOW INFO
Next show dates: TBA

www.kingpins.info
FROM SUPER-COSY BLANKET

TEXTURES, ULTRA-REFINED TAFFETA
SHINES, AND HEAVILY VINTAGEINSPIRED WORN LAUNDRY FINISHES KINGPINS AMSTERDAM WAS A SHOW OF
DENIM EXTREMES!
Katy Rutherford, Associate

Denim Editor WGSN
Vintage laundry
High-low contrast
Key laundries showcase their wash skills this season, drawing on heavily worn vintage garments for
inspiration. Strong high-low contrast, defined whiskers, natural abrasions, baked-in 3D creasing, stained
finishes and hand-repaired looks are all key to achieving these authentic looks, with many laundries
using waterless technology to create new eco laundry effects.
Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16
Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

autumn/winter 2015/16
Kurabo at Kingpins autumn/winter

2015/16





Hand repaired
Laundries are championing the current folk repair trend,by incorporating stitched, darned and patched
details for a pre-loved sentiment.
WGSN 2014
Royo Textile at Kingpins

Autumn/Winter 2015/16





2015/16

2015/16

Contemporary patchwork
Another hot street trend spotted at key laundries is contemporary patchwork which includes removed
patches for shadow branding looks, tonally printed blocking and stripes, and a strong knee focus.
Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job

at Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16


WGSN 2014

Carbon coatings
Black staining adds a dark grungy edge to the more authentic vintage effects on show this season.
Choose abraded waxed looks and apply black coatings over blue denim for a worn carbon-coated effect,
or choose bleached ombr effects on black denim for a younger fashion interpretation.



Knitdigo at Kingpins autumn/winter

2015/16
3D creases
Heavily defined creases are a key aspect of the dark vintage looks re-emerging this season. Pair bakedin creases at thighs, knees and hems with a resin coating for a 3D moulded look.
Orta Anadolu at Kingpins




Character constructions
Wide twill
Soft handle linear weaves,such as wide twills, rib-like indigo knits, and bedford and corduroy fabrics, are
a continuing trend supporting the move towards super-comfort and soft-touch fabrics.
WGSN 2014
Rainbow Textile at Kingpins

ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter

2015/16
Prosperity Textile at Kingpins


2015/16
Herringbone
Herringbone continues to be an important fabric, increasingly replacing twill as a base for experimental
laundry effects. Bleached and overdyed looks, extreme cosy and brushed backs, and compact hyper
blue are all fresh takes on this classic fabric.

2015/16


2015/16

Square & noisy weaves

Noisy micro-constructions, waffle structures and defined square weaves grow in strength for lightweights.
Offering a great update for casual canvas and oxford shirtings in dark indigo shades, while heavierweight sashiko-inspired weaves, dry raw finishes and transparent coatings offer a sheen aspect for
jackets and bottoms.
WGSN 2014
Far East Network at Kingpins

Advance Denim at Kingpins




2015/16

2015/16

2015/16

Extreme texture
Texture goes super-sized for heavyweights. Natural character is exaggerated through super slubs,
coarse yarn fibres and irregular constructions.



WGSN 2014

2015/16
Extreme cosy
Last autumn/winter's cosy denim looks are once again a key trend for directional mills. Fluffy fleece
reverse and brushed blanket surfaces take comfort and texture to the max. Soft wool-looks and contrast
double-faced marls continue for a more commercial option.




Central Fabrics at Kingpins


Far East Network at Kingpins


Refined cosy
Super-soft handle denim remains a constant development area for mills, as fabrics become increasingly
refined and cosy. Peached and plush surfaces remain a strong commercial success story for skinny
jeans, while compact gabardine offers a premium option for colour applications and sporty synthetic
indigo looks.
WGSN 2014


2015/16






Taffeta denim
Super-compact, high-shine lightwight denim fabrics emerge, elevating the summer's glossy raw looks.
Super-fine yarns and tight constructions lend a glass-like taffeta sheen for premium women's denim
fashion.
WGSN 2014
Indigo jersey
Waffle & piqu
As the cosy denim trend continues, new knitted constructions emerge offering fresh alternatives to the
commercial sports denim looks currently at retail. Chunky square waffles and piqu jerseys offer a
textural element to the flatter knitted qualities we've tracked over the last few seasons, and are seen in
indigo overdyes and laundered finishes.


2015/16


2015/16
Premium jersey-sweat
Heavier-weight knitted denim fabrics look increasingly contemporary, breaking away vintage laundry
effects of previous seasons and instead moving towards cleaner performance looks. Plush and loop-back
reverse fabrics and compact super-soft, almost spongy handles elevate this core area of the market.

2015/16

Artistic Fabric Mills at Kingpins

WGSN 2014

2015/16




2015/16
Indigo pattern
Indigo jersey in T-shirt weights are a key development at many Japanese and European mills this
season. The newest looks are woven indigo-ecru stripes and spots, while discharge prints are also seen
in conversational designs for super-commercial denim and casualwear looks.

2015/16



WGSN 2014
2015/16
2015/16
2015/16
Colour
Vintage naval green casts
Last summer's teal shades take on a vintage sentiment for autumn, with strong naval references seen in
the dark green casts and authentic vintage finishes, both particularly important for men's denim. For
women, indigo takes on a calmer and cooler nautical green shade, with washed colour coatings and
green-cast indigo sateen weaves.




2015/16


2015/16


Tea-stained
The importance of contemporary neutral and military classic colours continues and is seen across a wide
range of mills and laundries. The latest updates take on a tinted or tea-stained look, with soft neutral
pigments layered over paler base fabrics.
WGSN 2014

2015/16






Denim Valley by Royo at Kingpins

Black
Grey denim is a strong contender for colour of the season for spring/summer 2015 and now
this commercial look moves into darker territory for autumn. Washed black and black overdyes remain
key for fashion grunge looks, while matte black coatings continue for fashion looks, with biker-inspirations
for women and dark rugged utilitarian looks for men, both explored in our A/W 15/16 Decrypt collection.

2015/16


WGSN 2014

Hyper blue
One of the key colour messages from last season, bright synthetic indigo shades continue to be evident
this season, seen in compact fabrics and rich colour coatings.


Denim Valley by Royo at Kingpins


Reds & brights

Bold colour remains a source of inspiration and is key for experimental laundry effects. Dark oxblood,
bright aqua and green are stand-out shades against the otherwise indigo and black season, offering a
bright colour injection for young fashion-denim looks.
Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job at Kingpins

Orta Anadolu at Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16
WGSN 2014
Prosperity Textile at Kingpins autumn/winter

2015/16
ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16
Kurabo at Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16
WGSN 2014
Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job at Kingpins


A W 15 16 Kingpins Amsterdam Trend Analysis

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A/W 15/16: Kingpins Amsterdam trend analysis

By Katy Rutherford, WGSN, 15 May 2014

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at Kingpins autumn/winter 2015/16

Key laundries adopt varied techniques from hand-stitched

Vintage laundry: highlow contrast, hand

Next show dates: TBA

FROM SUPER-COSY BLANKET

Katy Rutherford, Associate

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Kurabo at Kingpins autumn/winter

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Royo Textile at Kingpins

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Kurabo at Kingpins autumn/winter

Kurabo at Kingpins autumn/winter

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job

Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job

Knitdigo at Kingpins autumn/winter

Orta Anadolu at Kingpins

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Garmon Chemicals + The Italian Job

Rainbow Textile at Kingpins

ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter

Prosperity Textile at Kingpins

Knitdigo at Kingpins autumn/winter

ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Knitdigo at Kingpins autumn/winter

Rainbow Textile at Kingpins

Square & noisy weaves

Far East Network at Kingpins

Advance Denim at Kingpins

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Rainbow Textile at Kingpins

ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter

ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter

ITV at Kingpins autumn/winter

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili at

Kurabo at Kingpins autumn/winter

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins

Advance Denim at Kingpins

Central Fabrics at Kingpins

Toyoshima Co. at Kingpins