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Yokos Pizzeria
The c he mis t ry, manufac t ure , and
de bugging of pizza doughwit h s ome
re c ipe s .
Copyright 1995 1996 Yoko Nonaka & Giordano Beretta. All rights reserved.
URL http://www.hpl.hp.com/personal/Giordano_Beretta/Acrobat/pizza.pdf
DOUGH CHEMISTRY Flour. The choi ce of our i s very i mportant. Sel ect a strong or bread our,
whi ch has a hi gh protei n content. When water i s added, the protei n i s trans-
formed i n gl uten, whi ch makes a smooth and el asti c dough when kneaded.
Strong or ri ch i n protei n ours suck up the moi sture rapi dl y and through
kneadi ng make a ni ce smooth dough wi th a ne structure.
Regul ar our can be kept for 46 months, whol e grai n our for 2 months.
Ye as t . The yeast i s necessary to ferment the dough, i.e., to make i t rai se.
The dough becomes l oose because carbon di oxi de i s produced: smal l bubbl es
form, whi ch are trapped i n the dough and make i t rai se.
Dry yeast can be stored for a year. To test i f dry yeast sti l l works, take a coupl e
of grai ns and di ssol ve them i n water; i f after 10 mi nutes there are smal l bub-
bl es, the yeast i s sti l l good. Fresh yeast l asts for 12 weeks.
Prepare dry yeast by rst di ssol vi ng a spoon of sugar or honey i n warm l i qui d.
Then pour i n the yeast and l et i t si t on a warm pl ace for 10 mi nutes, unti l
there are bubbl es. Fi nal l y, add the prepared yeast to the other i ngredi ents.
Prepare fresh yeast by mi xi ng i t wi th some l i qui d and then addi ng the our
and other i ngredi ents. The l i qui d can be col d, but i f i t i s warm (3843C) the
dough rai ses faster.
CAUTION: Yeast l ooses the boost power above 60C, so i t shoul d not get too warm when
mi xed or the dough i s ri si ng. When the dough i s put i n the oven the yeast
l ooses the boost power and the dough stops rai si ng.
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Salt . I t i mproves the taste and prevents the yeast from fermenti ng too fast.
Too much sal t ki l l s the yeast. Wi thout sal t the dough becomes sti cky i nstead of
smooth and the baked pi zza remai ns smal l and rm.
Sugar. Makes the gl uten soft and the crust brown. Too much sugar ki l l s the
yeast.
Fat . Makes the dough soft, gi ves col or, and i mproves the storage abi l i ty.
Liquids . Al ways add al l the ui ds at once. I f the dough i s too soft, i t i s
al ways easy to add some our, but i t i s hard to add l i qui ds to a formed dough.
Vit amin C. I t makes ri se the dough much faster. However, i t does not make
i t more nutri ent, because vi tami n C i s destroyed duri ng the baki ng process.
BAKING, STEP BY STEP Mixing. The dough can be prepared wi th a machi ne, usi ng the kneadi ng
hooks. Fi rst put al l l i qui ds i n the contai ner, then add the other i ngredi ents.
Use the l owest speed and l et i t run for 12 mi nutes, unti l the dough comes off
from the border of the contai ner.
Kne ading. Thi s step i s i mportant to make the dough smooth and the pi zza
crunchy. Usi ng a machi ne and the second sl owest speed i t takes onl y 23 mi n-
utes unti l the dough i s smooth.
Firs t rais ing. Before baki ng, the dough must have ri sen at l east once for
the yeast to have an effect. At oven temperature the yeast di es, so the dough
has to have ri sen compl etel y before i t i s baked. When i t rai ses, the dough vol -
ume must at l east doubl e. I f the dough rises too long, it collapses; in that case it
must be kneaded and let raise again.Duri ng the rai si ng ti me i n the bowl , the
dough must be compl etel y covered wi th a pl asti c foi l to prevent the formati on
of a crust. The rai si ng can al so take pl ace i n a pl asti c bag smeared wi th oi l .
Typi cal rai si ng ti mes: i n a warm pl ace (38C) 4560 mi nutes. At room temper-
ature (1821C) 1.52 hours. I n a cool pl ace 8 hours. I n the refri gerator 12
18 hours.
I f the dough i s l et to rai se over ni ght, l et i t si t i n a cool pl ace or i n the refri ger-
ator. The next day i t i s kneaded and attened agai n and must go through the
second rai si ng.
After the rst rai si ng, the dough can be frozen i n a pl asti c bag smeared wi th
oi l .
Forming. The ri sen dough must be beaten, i.e., squeezed at wi th the
knuckl es and kneaded for 12 mi nutes. The beati ng knocks out the ai r bub-
bl es, so the dough can ri se twi ce uni forml y. Be careful that there i s not too
much our on the worki ng surface because i t affects the crust col or.
The dough i s then formed on a wooden pi zza peal .
Se c ond rais ing. I t i s easi est to do the second rai si ng by sti cki ng the peal
wi th the dough i n a food pl asti c bag smeared wi th oi l . The bag has to be suf-
Express Dough
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ci entl y l arge to hol d the ri sen dough. The vol ume has to doubl e. The second
rai si ng ti me i s shorter than the rst rai si ng ti me.
Baking. Pre-heat the oven and use the l owest rack. I f you use a baki ng
stone, i t wi l l dry out better the dough and, i f adequatel y pre-heated, make the
crust crunchi er. The pizza is ready when the dough is gold-brown.
I t s di fcul t to make predi cti ons on the ti me. The actual ti me depends on the
oven (gas, wood, el ectri c; si ze; etc.), the toppi ngs (water contents, wei ghts,
etc.), and vari ati ons i n the dough (ai r, pul se, i ngredi ents, etc.). Some of the rec-
i pes contai n proven ti mes.
As a rul e of thumb, pre-heati ng an oven wi th a baki ng stone to 500F takes
about 15 20 mi nutes and baki ng the pi zza at 450F 475F takes 20 25
mi nutes.
EXPRESS DOUGH Thi s method consi sts i n usi ng vi tami n C to shorten the rst ri si ng ti me.
When fresh yeast i s used, the rst rai si ng ti me i s onl y 5 mi nutes. Wi th dry
yeast the rst ri si ng ti me i s 1 hour. The second rai si ng l asts 4550 mi nutes at
room temperature (21C) or 40 mi nutes i n a warm pl ace (32C).
Use a l i ttl e more yeast as i n the regul ar reci pe and make sure there i s al ways
a l i ttl e sugar.
TIPS & TRICKS 1. Use the correct ki nd of our
2. Mi x i n correctl y the yeast
3. Add al l l i qui ds at once
4. Knead the dough thoroughl y, 23 mi nutes wi th the machi ne usi ng the
kneadi ng hooks
5. Let the dough ri se covered, to prevent crust formati on
6. Make sure the oven i s pre-heated at the correct temperature
DEBUGGING
Bug Diagnostics Fix
The dough is too rm The our is too ne Use stronger our
Too much salt Accurately weigh the salt
Raising time too short Make sure the dough volume has
doubled during the raising step
Oven not warm enough Always pre-heat the oven to the
correct temperature
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FREEZING Dough can be frozen for two (2) months. After that ti me the gl ue acti on of the
our di ssol ves and the starch crystal l i zes, changi ng the taste. The dough has
to be packaged ai r-ti ght and frozen i mmedi atel y when i t i s ready. I f fresh
yeast i s used, the yeast quanti ty has to be doubl ed because i t l ooses i ts
potency when frozen.
UNFREEZING Thaw dough i n refri gerator, rol l when sti l l col d. I f i t i s thawed i n a mi crowave
oven, i t has to be unfrozen i n a mi crowave pl asti c wrap to prevent the dough
from dryi ng out.
ITALIAN PIZZA DOUGH Thi s reci pe i s for one pi zza for 6 peopl e or for 6 smal l pi zzas.
Thi s dough becomes a soft, l i ght pi zza shel l . Put on i t what you l i ke: sh,
meat, or vegetabl es. Experi ment a l i ttl e bi t unti l you nd your preferred top-
pi ng. I t i s easi est to begi n wi th a l ayer of peel ed tomatoes and garl i c, a l ayer of
i ngredi ents you l i ke, oregano and basi l , grate some cheese on top, and bake.
15 g fresh yeast or 1 tea spoons of dry yeast
tea spoon sugar
5 spoons luke warm water
50 g butter or margarine
225 g our (type 550)
tea spoon salt
1 egg
The dough is lumpy Too much yeast Carefully weigh the yeast
You did not knead and atten
enough
Sufciently knead the dough
The dough has risen for too long If you have let the dough raise for
too long, knead it and the repeat
the forming and second raising
steps
Strong yeast taste Too much yeast Weigh the yeast carefully
The dry yeast was not solved cor-
rectly
Make sure the dry yeast is fully dis-
solved before using it
Fresh yeast was mixed with sugar Use only little sugar with fresh yeast
Broken crust Flour too ne Use stronger our
The dough did not rise sufciently Let the dough rise for a longer time
Pizza is too wet There was too much tomato juice
and it could not dry out
There are dozens of different
tomato kinds. For pizza, like for
sugo, rm tomatoes with little juice
and lots of ber works best. Best
choice: pelati, also known in Cali-
fornia as Roma tomatoes
Bug Diagnostics Fix
Pizza Neapolitan
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Di ssol ve yeast wi th sugar i n l uke warm water, l et si t i n warm pl ace unti l i t i s
bubbl y. Kneed the butter or margari ne i n the our unti l i t makes crumbs. Mi x
i n the sal t. Mi x the yeast and the shaked egg and the our to a tough dough.
Kneed on a surface wi th our, put i n a bowl covered wi th a pl asti c foi l smeared
wi th oi l , and l et i t si t unti l the vol ume doubl es.
Throw the dough on a surface covered wi th our. Rol l out to a ci rcl e (di ameter
30 cm) or a rectangl e (2330 cm). I t can al so be rol l ed out to make 6 smal l pi z-
zas. (Make sure the bi g pi zza ts i n the oven!)
PIZZA NEAPOLITAN 9 peeled, smashed tomatoes
salt & pepper
12 anchovy llets
175g thinly sliced mozzarella
1 tea spoon oregano, basil, thyme
2 spoons olive oil
Mi x the tomatoes wi th sal t & pepper and smear uni forml y on top of the dough.
Hal ve the anchovy l l ets and arrange on the pi zza. Cover wi th the cheese and
spri nkl e wi th the herbs, spri nkl e wi th the oi l . Bake for 1520 mi nutes. Bake
the smal l pi zzas for 10 mi nutes.
PIZZA ALLA FRANCESCA 225 g sliced mushrooms
25 g butter or margarine
212 g sliced mozzarella
225 g canned peeled tomatoes
1 pressed garlic clove
300 g tomato concentrate
50 g black olives
1 tea spoon oregano and basil
2 spoons olive oil
Parmesan to sprinkle on top
Saut the sl i ced mushrooms i n the butter or margari ne at a hi gh temperature
for 23 mi nutes. Cover the dough wi th the mozzarel l a sl i ces. Di scard the jui ce
from the canned tomatoes, smash them i n a bowl , add the garl i c and the
tomato concentrate. Smear thi s mi x on top of the cheese. Spri nkl e wi th the
mushrooms, decorate wi th the ol i ves, spri nkl e wi th the herbs, spri nkl e wi th
the oi l , and grate some parmesan on top. Bake for 1520 mi nutes. Bake the
smal l pi zzas for 10 mi nutes.
PIZZA CON PEPERONI
(BELL PEPPER PIZZA)
For 4 persons:
1 pizza dough
1 jar pickled roasted peppers
4 pealed tomatoes (pelati)
2 small onions
1 table spoon olive oil
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Preheat the oven to 280C and prepare the dough. Pl ace the knuckl ed dough
on the peal and di stri bute evenl y the squashed tomatoes. Drai n wel l the
roasted pepper from the l i qui d and cut them i n stri pes; di stri bute them on the
pi zza wi th the oni ons cut i nto ri ngs. Let a fathom of oi l ow and put i n the
oven for 15 mi nutes.
PIZZA AI FUNGHI
(MUSHROOM PIZZA)
For 4 persons:
1 pizza dough
3 fresh porcini mushrooms
salt
olive oil
Fl atten the pi zza dough and smear i t wi th oi l . Cut the porci ni i n very thi n
sl i ces usi ng a trufe cutter or a cerami c kni fe and di stri bute them on the
dough. Pl ace a tomato l et here and there, sal t, and spri nkl e wi th oi l . Bake for
15 mi nutes i n the oven at 250C.
PIZZA QUATTRO STAGIONI
(4 SEASON PIZZA)
For 4 persons:
1 pizza dough
1 small can vongole
1 box frozen clams
1 small jar artichokes in oil
70g black olives (Gaeta type)
olive oil
Fl atten the pi zza dough and mark a cross wi th the kni fe. Wash the sea frui ts
under runni ng water and pl ace them i n two quadrants. Hal ve the arti chokes
and put them i n one quadrant. Put the stonel ess ol i ves i n the l ast quadrant.
Let a few drops of ol i ve oi l fal l on the sea frui ts and put i mmedi atel y i n the
oven at 250C.
Thi s i s the Neapol i tan reci pe. Further north the four toppi ngs are: prosci utto
(wi nter), arti chokes (spri ng), bel l pepper (summer), and bol eti mushrooms
bol eti (fal l ). Capers are spri nkl ed over the whol e pi zza. Before the i ngredi ents
are added, some mozzarel l a and tomato i s put on the dough.
PIZZA ALLORIGANO
(OREGANO PIZZA)
For 4 persons:
1 pizza dough
5 garlic cloves
salt
pepper
plenty of oregano
oil
Fl atten the dough and sti ck i nto i t the garl i c pi eces cut al ong thei r l ong si de.
Dust the pi zza wi th sal t and pepper. Put a l ot of oregano on the pi zza and
spri nkl e i t wi th oi l before putti ng i t i n the 250C oven.