USTER

ZWEIGLE
TWIST TESTER 5

APPLICATION REPORT


Measurement and
significance of yarn twist

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM











R. Furter, S. Meier
September 2009
SE 631



THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM










































Copyright 2009 by Uster Technologies AG

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a re-
trieval system, translated or transmitted in any form or by any means, electroni-
cally, mechanically, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permis-
sion in writing of the copyright owner.

veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\Off-line\Zweigle\SE_SD-631_Measurement and significance of yarn twist

2 (16) USTER

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
Contents
1 Introduction ................................................................................ 5
2 Basics of yarn twist ................................................................... 5
2.1 Calculation of the yarn twist ......................................................... 5
2.2 Yarn twist versus yarn count ........................................................ 6
2.3 Yarn twist for a specific end use .................................................. 7
2.4 Yarn twist limits for knitting yarns................................................. 7
2.5 Yarn strength versus yarn twist .................................................... 8
2.6 Yarn hairiness versus yarn twist .................................................. 9
2.7 Yarn twist and productivity ........................................................... 9
2.8 Yarn twist and compact yarn...................................................... 10
2.9 Accuracy of yarn twist measurement ......................................... 10
3 Benchmarks.............................................................................. 11
4 Yarn twist of alternative spinning systems ........................... 12
5 Twist measuring methods ....................................................... 14
6 Measuring standard for twist .................................................. 15
7 Conclusion................................................................................ 15

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM


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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
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1 Introduction

Yarn twist belongs to the basic quality characteristics of ring-spun yarns.
Yarn twist also determines the productivity of a mill because more twist
means less productivity. Therefore, it is of utmost interest to find the opti-
mum twist.

There is also a relationship between twist and diameter, density, hairiness,
strength and elongation.

Yarn twist should be within narrow limits. Otherwise, the specialists may be
faced with various problems such as yarns of different dye uptake, visible
stripes in the fabric, reduction of strength and elongation, etc. Particularly
dangerous are slow spindles due to defective or contaminated spindle
drives on the ring spinning machine.

A reduction of the yarn twist increases the yarn diameter and decreases the
density.

The following recommendation has to be followed in order to avoid prob-
lems in subsequent processes:
The variation of yarn twist CV
t
should not exceed 3,5% to avoid quality
problems which can be recognized by the human eye.

If the variation is higher than this figure, there is a danger that the fault can
be seen in the final fabric, particularly after dyeing.

This paper deals with the USTER

ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER 5.

2 Basics of yarn twist

2.1 Calculation of the yarn twist

The following survey shows the calculation rules for twist factors used in
the textile industry:
English twist factor: e = turns per inch / Nec
Metric twist factor: m = turns per meter / Nm
Twist factor based on tex: tex = turns per meter t ex

The twist per meter of a yarn is dependent on the yarn count. A fine yarn
requires more twist than a coarse yarn for the same application. Therefore,
the English twist factor takes this into account, e.g. a statement such as:
The twist factor of combed cotton yarn should not exceed the value of 3,7
is valid for the entire count range.

The twist factor is also named twist multiplier in some countries.


THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
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Example

A combed cotton yarn Nec 50, has a twist of 1020 per meter. What is the
English twist factor?

Turns per inch = 0,0254 1020 = 25,91 [tpi]

English twist factor e =
Nec
i nch per t
=
ur ns
50
91 , 5 2
=
07 , 7
91 , 5 2
= 3,66

This is the twist of a hosiery yarn.



2.2 Yarn twist versus yarn count

There is a relationship between the yarn twist and the yarn count as shown
in Fig. 1 (cotton yarns).

Twist (1/m)
Ne 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 1416182022 25 30 35 40 50 60 70 8090100120 140
1 7/8"
1 1/2"
1 1/8"
1 1/16"
1"
Count
Hosiery yarn
Weft yarn
Warp yarn
400
500
600
700
800
900
1000
1100
1200
1300
1400
1500
1600
1700
1800
1900
2000

Fig. 1
Relationship between yarn
twist and yarn count for
ring-spun yarn


Fine yarns require long staple fibers and high twist. Coarse yarns can be
produced with short fibers and low twist.

The warp yarns are the yarns with the highest twist.

The twist of weft yarns is approximately 4 5 % below the twist of warp
yarns.

The twist of hosiery yarns is approximately 12 15 % below the twist of
warp yarns.

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
2.3 Yarn twist for a specific end use

Table 1 shows experience values for ring spun yarns. The table is valid for
short staple yarns and deals with twist factors for yarns of various applica-
tions.

Twist factor
e m
Twist per m
Nec 30
Application range Characteristics
2,5 3,9 76 118 537 824 knitting yarns soft twist
3 4,3 90 130 636 919 weft yarns normal twist
3,7 4,5 111 135 785 954 warp yarns, soft hard twist
4,3 4,6 130 140 919 990 warp yarn, normal hard twist
4,6 5,4 140 165 990 1167 warp yarn, hard hard twist
6,3 8,9 190 270 1343 1909 crepe yarns special twist
Table 1 Twist for various subsequent process


The twist factors are valid for the entire count range. The twist range per
meter in Table 1 is only valid for a count of Nec 30 (20 tex).



2.4 Yarn twist limits for knitting yarns

The twist factor for combed cotton yarns for knitted fabrics should not ex-
ceed 3.7, whereas in case of carded yarns, a twist factor up to 3.9 is toler-
ated for yarns for knitted fabrics (Fig. 2).


Fig. 2
Recommendation for yarn
twist limits, combed yarns


In case of knitting yarns a part of the yarn strength has to be sacrificed for a
better and softer handle.

Yarns with low twist are used for knitted fabrics, yarns with high twist are
used for crepe yarns. Yarns with average twist are used for regular woven
fabrics (Fig. 3).
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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
2.5 Yarn strength versus yarn twist

If the yarn twist increases, the yarn strength increases as well. A warp yarn
of medium count Nec 30 reaches the peak value at about 1000 turns per
meter. The yarn strength decreases again at higher twist.


Fig. 3
Relationship between yarn
strength and yarn twist


Most of the fibers in the cross-section of compact yarns contribute to the
yarn strength.

The protruding fibers of a conventional combed ring-spun yarns do not con-
tribute to the yarn strength.

The short fibers of carded yarns cause a reduction of the yarn strength.

The wrapped fibers of OE rotor yarns do not contribute to the yarn strength.

Fig. 4 demonstrates how strong the twist can influence the breaking force
and the elongation of the yarn (combed cotton yarn, 25 tex, Nec 24).


Fig. 4
Relationship between yarn
braking force / breaking
elongation and twist for a
particular example

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
Fig. 4 shows that the highest force is available at a twist level of 1100 per
meter for this type of yarn. The yarn force decreases with lower and higher
twist. The elongation increases from 600 to 2000 turns per meter. The elon-
gation is 7.25% at the highest yarn force and reaches a value of 9.5% at
2000 turns per meter. These values are only valid for this type of yarn.



2.6 Yarn hairiness versus yarn twist

The reduction of twist increases the hairiness because the number of pro-
truding fibers increases. However, there are some limitations concerning
the twist multiplier. This value should not exceed 3,7 for combed yarns.

Twist
Hairiness
low
twist
high
twist

Fig. 5
Relationship between yarn
hairiness and yarn twist



2.7 Yarn twist and productivity

Fig. 6 shows the relationship between ring traveller speed and count.


Fig. 6
Relationship between ring
traveller speed and yarn
count
(Source: Brcker)

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
The yarn twist determines the productivity in a spinning mill to a large ex-
tent. However, as already described, the degrees of freedom are limited. In
order to reach a yarn strength required for a warp yarn, the turns per meter
have to exceed 1000 per meter for an average count. Another limiting ele-
ment is the maximum speed of ring travellers which is about 42 (m/s). The
alternatives are smaller rings for the ring travellers and, therefore, smaller
bobbins. This results in more splices per kilometer.



2.8 Yarn twist and compact yarn

A compact yarn has very little protruding fibers because most of the fibers
are embedded in the yarn body. Therefore, a compact yarn has a tenacity
which is about 15 to 20 % above the tenacity of a regular ring-spun yarn.
This is valid under the assumption that the yarns are produced with the
same raw material.

Therefore, it is possible to reduce the twist as an alternative to increase the
productivity of the ring spinning machine if the higher yarn strength is not
required (Fig. 7).


Fig. 7
Options to increase the
productivity by lowering the
twist for compact yarn
(Source: Rieter)



2.9 Accuracy of yarn twist measurement

Every measuring system has its limitation with respect to accuracy of the
results. This is also valid for twist testing. However, the accuracy of this
system is very high.

The behaviour of measuring systems with respect to accuracy is frequently
checked by the evaluation of inter-laboratory variations. The inter-
laboratory variations CV
b
for twist with the Zweigle system is around 1%.
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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
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Example
Testex round trial no 80, cotton 100 %, Ne 40, combed,
Sample size: 10 bobbins
Extraction of the Zweigle results; participants: 34 spinning mills

Mean : 986
Standard deviation s: 16.9
Interlaboratory variation: CV
b
=
x
s
=
9
1
85
7 , 7
= 0,018 = 1,8%

Confidence interval: Q
95%
=
n
s t
=
34
7 , 17 2 , 2
=
83 , 5
9 , 38 2 , 2
= 6,7


The probability, therefore, is 95% that the mean of the twist lies within the
limits 978 and 992 (1/m) if another sample of 10 bobbins is measured from
the same lot.



3 Benchmarks

In order to compare the twist values with the world production, Uster Tech-
nologies offers benchmarks for twist testing.

Fig. 8 and Fig. 9 are recently developed benchmarks for twist. These fig-
ures are examples for cotton 100%, ring-spun yarn, carded, bobbins, for
knitted fabrics.

Fig. 8 represents the USTER

STATISTICS for twist and Fig. 9 shows the

USTER

STATISTICS for twist variation.

Fig. 8
Example, USTER

STATISTICS for twist

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
Interpretation of Fig. 8: most of the measured values taken from the
USTER

STATISTICS database were close to the 50%-line with some

variations. 90% of all the values were between the 5% and 95%-line. The
95%-line does not mean that values on this line are inferior to values on the
5%-line. It simply means that the yarns with twist values on the 95%-line
were produced with more twist and, therefore, with lower productivity.

Fig. 9
Example, USTER

STATISTICS for twist
Variation. Carded cotton.


Fig. 9 shows the variation of twist for the cotton yarn mentioned above. It is
an evaluation of the values of the USTER

STATISTICS database.

For a complete collection of benchmarks (USTER

STATISTICS for twist)

see application report SE 633.



4 Yarn twist of alternative spinning systems

There are currently four spinning systems in the market:
Conventional ring spinning system (Fig. 10)
Compact spinning system (Fig. 10)
OE rotor spinning system (Fig. 11)
Vortex spinning system (Fig. 11)


The conventional ring spinning and the compact spinning system are both
ring spinning systems where the embedded fibers in the yarn body have a
preferred direction. The twist of these two yarns can easily be measured.


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Structure of a ring-spun yarn Structure of a compact yarn
Fig. 10
Structure of ring-spun yarn
and compact yarn





Structure of an OE rotor yarn

Structure of Vortex yarn
Fig. 11
Structure of OE rotor yarn
and Vortex yarn. The inner
layers have less twist.


Fig. 12 shows the twist characteristics of the 4 spinning systems. Ring-spun
yarn and compact yarn have approximately the same preferred fiber direc-
tions from the center of the yarn to the outermost layer.

OE rotor yarns have a preferred fiber direction in the center of the yarn, but
the outermost layers are wrapped fibers (see also Fig. 11).

Vortex yarns have untwisted fibers in the yarn center and twisted fibers at
the yarn surface (Fig. 11, Fig. 12).


Fig. 12
Twist characteristics of
various spinning systems
(Source: Muratec)
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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM
For the spinning systems OE rotor and Vortex there exist no internationally
accepted rules for the measurement of the yarn twist. Therefore, spinning
mills mostly measure the twist of these two yarns according to internal
regulations or by means of other parameters (strength, elongation).

OE rotor machine manufacturers provide recommendations for the twist
setting of OE rotor yarns on the machines. Fig. 13 shows the recom-
mended twist and twist range for various fibers which are processed on an
OE rotor spinning machine. Fig. 13 demonstrates that the twist setting must
be higher for short or very short fibers.

Twist (1/m)
400
600
800
1000
1200
3 6
10
20 30 40 Ne
Count
3
1
2
4
5

Fig. 13
Twist for OE rotor yarn
(Source: Rieter)


Explanation of the figures:
1 = Comber noil (e = 5.1)
2 = Cotton waste (e = 5.0)
3 = Cotton 1 1 1/8 (e = 4.7)
4 = Synthetic fibers 38 mm (e = 3)
5 = Twist for hosiery yarns, raw mat. according to 3, 4 (e = 3.2 to 4.1)



5 Twist measuring methods

With the Zweigle twist measuring system five different twist measuring
methods can be selected. The most common method is the simple untwist-
retwist method (Fig. 14).

The Zweigle measuring system can also be applied for the measurement of
filament yarn twist.

For other twist measuring methods please consult the Application Manual
of the USTER

ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER 5.

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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Fig. 14
Twist measuring principle


In a first step the yarn is untwisted until the yarn reached the status where
all the fibers have the direction of the yarn axis. This is the twist position
where the yarn reaches the largest extension. In a second step the yarn is
twisted in the same direction again until the yarn reaches the original length
(change from Z-direction to S direction or vice versa).



6 Measuring standard for twist

The most important measuring standard is ASTM 1423.



7 Conclusion

The twist is an important quality parameter of yarns. The twist determines
various other characteristics such as the hairiness, the density, the
strength, the elongation, the hand, the productivity, etc.

Uster Technologies has developed benchmarks for yarn twist. One exam-
ple for carded cotton yarns is shown in Fig. 8 and Fig. 9.

This paper serves as an introduction into twist measurement.


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THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM












































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ax +41 43 366 36 37 F

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