1

ABSTRACT
The project has undertaken at Fort Wardrobe, Tirupur for the period of 5 days in the
area of production management. The project was related to the Process of Textile
Manufacturing of the garments and also includes the survey of customer satisfaction.
The survey has done on the various customers and exporters in Tirupur.The survey
has done through Personal Interview with the help of Questionnarie.The Random Sampling
Methods was used in the survey.
And most of the customers opinion that there satisfied with Quality, Variety, Offers,
Awareness and value for money of the product. This project summary provides the key
findings of customer satisfaction level of the Garments.
















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TABLE OF CONTENT

CHAPTER CONTENT PAGE NO
1 1.1 Introduction 3
1.2 Importance of Customer Service 5
II 2.1 Company Profile 6
III 3.1 Production Process of Textile Manufacturing 12
3.2 Yarn 13
3.3 Knitting 16
3.4 Dyeing 18
3.5 Cutting 20
3.6 Textile Printing 21
3.7 Stitching 23
3.8 Quality Management 25
3.9 a Ironing 27
3.9 b Packing 27
V 5.1 Findings 31
Conclusion 32
Annexure 33



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CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
The textile industry or apparel industry is primarily concerned with the production of
yarn, and cloth and the subsequent design or manufacture of clothing and their distribution.
The raw material may be natural, or synthetic using products of the chemical industry.
Cotton manufacturing
Cotton is the world's most important natural fibre. In the year 2007, the global yield was 25
million tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries. There are five
stages
Cultivating and Harvesting
Preparatory Processes
Spinning- giving yarn
Weaving- giving fabrics
Finishing- giving textiles

Synthetic fibres
Artificial fibres can be made by extruding a polymer, through a spinneret into a medium
where it hardens. Wet spinning (rayon) uses a coagulating medium. In dry spinning (acetate
and triacetate), the polymer is contained in a solvent that evaporates in the heated exit
chamber. In melt spinning (nylons and polyesters) the extruded polymer is cooled in gas or
air and then sets. All these fibres will be of great length, often kilometers long.
Artificial fibres can be processed as long fibres or batched and cut so they can be processed
like a natural fibre.
Natural fibres
Natural fibres are either from animals (sheep, goat, rabbit, silk-worm) mineral (asbestos) or
from plants (cotton, flax, sisal). These vegetable fibres can come from the seed (cotton), the
stem (known as bast fibres: flax, Hemp,Jute) or the leaf (sisal). Without exception, many
processes are needed before a clean even staple is obtained- each with a specific name. With
the exception of silk, each of these fibres is short being only centimeters in length, and each
has a rough surface that enables it to bond with similar staples.

4

Textile Industry in India

The Textile industry in India traditionally, after agriculture, is the only industry that has
generated huge employment for both skilled and unskilled labor in textiles. The textile
industry continues to be the second largest employment generating sector in India. It offers
direct employment to over 35 million in the country. The share of textiles in total exports was
11.04% during AprilJuly 2010, as per the Ministry of Textiles. During 2009-2010, Indian
textiles industry was pegged at US$55 billion, 64% of which services domestic demand. In
2010, there were 2,500 textile weaving factories and 4,135 textile finishing factories in all of
India.
The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the economy as well as in the
international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in terms
of its contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange
earnings. It contributes 20 percent of industrial production, 9 percent of excise collections, 18
percent of employment in the industrial sector, nearly 20 percent to the countrys total export
earning and 4 percent to the Gross Domestic Product.

In human history, past and present can never ignore the importance of textile in a civilization
decisively affecting its destinies, effectively changing its social scenario. A brief but
thoroughly researched feature on Indian textile culture. India is the second largest producer
of fibre in the world and the major fibre produced is cotton. Other fibres produced in India
include silk, jute, wool, and man-made fibres. 60% of the Indian textile Industry is cotton
based.
The strong domestic demand and the revival of the Economic markets by 2009 has led to
huge growth of the Indian textile industry. In December 2010, the domestic cotton price was
up by 50% as compared to the December 2009 prices. The causes behind high cotton price
are due to the floods in Pakistan and China.India projected a high production of textile (325
lakh bales for 2010 -11). There has been increase in India's share of global textile trading to
seven percent in five years. The rising prices are the major concern of the domestic producers
of the country.
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Man Made Fibres: These includes manufacturing of clothes using fibre or filament synthetic
yarns. It is produced in the large power loom factories. They account for the largest sector of
the textile production in India. This sector has a share of 62% of the India's total production
and provides employment to about 4.8 million people.
The Cotton Sector: It is the second most developed sector in the Indian Textile
industries. It provides employment to huge amount of people but its productions and
employment is seasonal depending upon the seasonal nature of the production.
The Handloom Sector: It is well developed and is mainly dependent on the SHGs for
their funds. Its market share is 13% of the total cloth produced in India.
The Woolen Sector: India is the 7th largest producer. of the wool in the world. India also
produces 1.8% of the world's total wool.
The Jute Sector: The jute or the golden fibre in India is mainly produced in the Eastern
states of India like Assam and West Bengal. India is the largest producer of jute in the
world.
The Sericulture and Silk Sector: India is the 2nd largest producer of silk in the world.
India produces 18% of the world's total silk. Mulberry, Eri, Tasar, and Muga are the main
types of silk produced in the country. It is a labor-intensive sector.

CURRENT POSSITION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA

Textile constitutes the single largest industry in India. The segment of the industry
during the year 2000-01 has been positive. The production of cotton declined from 156 lakh
bales in 1999-2000 to 1.40 lakh bales during 2000-01. Production of man-made fibre
increased from 835 million kgs in 1999-2000 to 904 million kgs during the year 2000-01
registering a growth of 8.26%. The production of spun yarn increased to 3160 million kgs
during 2000-01 from 3046 million kgs during 1999-2000 registering a growth of 3.7%. The
production of man-made filament yarn registered a growth of 2.91% during the year 1999-
2000 increasing from 894 million kgs to 920 million kgs. The production of fabric registered
a growth of 2.7% during the year 1999-2000 increasing from 39,208 million sq mtrs to
40,256 million sq mtrs. The production of mill sector declined by 2.6% while production of
handloom, powerloom and hosiery sector increased by 2%, 2.7% and 5.1% respectively. The
exports of textiles and garments increased from Rs. 455048 million to Rs. 552424 million,
6

registering a growth of 21%. Growth in the textile industry in the year 2003-2004 was Rs.
1609 billion. And during 2004-05 production of fabrics touched a peak of 45,378 million
squre meters. In the year 2005-06 up to November, production of fabrics registered a further
growth of 9 percent over the corresponding period of the previous year.

SWOT ANALYSIS OF INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Indian textile industry has several Strengths
Abundant Raw Material Availability
Low Cost Skilled Labour
Presence across the value-chain
Growing Domestic Market

Indian textile industry has several Weaknesses
Fragmented industry
Effect of Historical Government Policies
Lower Productivity and Cost Competitiveness
Technological Obsolescence
Indian textile industry has several Opportunities
Post 2005 challenges
Research and Development and Product Development

Indian textile industry has several Threats
Competition in Domestic Market
Ecological and Social Awareness
Regional alliances




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CHAPTER II
COMPANY PROFILE

Fort Wardrobe are a professionally managed company engaged in the field of
manufacturing, supplying and exporting of high quality knitted and hosiery garments. The
garment was started with a zeal and determination to redefine fashion in the industry.
Standing on the grounds of style and elegance, it offer knitted and hosiery garments that are
abreast of the changing international trends.
The garment combines marketing expertise and creative imagination to deliver designer
garments with unique textures, designs and colors. Each garment is exclusively designed as
per the changing fashion trends that reflect fine craftsmanship and elegance that suit the
aesthetic tastes of their clients all across the globe. They serve their customers with high
quality of products along with a wide range of variety of designs and fabrics.

Sri Sarveswara Garments, the leading manufacturer and exporter of apparel in India,
specializing in casual wear, lingerie and high-performance thermals, chose Lectras CAD and
cutting solutions to automate and streamline their production process. After a quick and
effective implementation process, the customer has seen remarkable results:
Productivity has increased by 80%, and the company has achieved 5 to 8% savings on
fabric. Optiplan, in particular, has helped garments reduce costs and save on material by 2%
compared to the manual process. The garments now enjoys the benefits of improved quality,
material savings, greater cost control, and the automation of processes, which has led to
savings in time and labor hours. Lectras integrated solutions have enabled garments to meet
their challenges more effectively and efficiently.

The challenge:
The garments Knitting was using a manual process and wanted to streamline production
with an automated solution in the hope of increasing efficiency, improving cutting accuracy
and enhancing productivity. The challenge they setwas to implement an automated integrated
solution with faster machines that would be even easier for their operators to use. The
8

company aimed to reduce their operating costs even further by using less material and
energy, and to increase their productivity through non-stop automated cutting.

Products
The range of products we deal in are:
Men's Wear
Ladies Wear
Kid's Wear
Formal Wear
Sleep Wears
Sports Wear
Undergarments

Works

The garment have developed core competence in the field of supplying stylish and trendy
range of knitted and hosiery garments. Their collection reflects designs from the remotest
antiquity to the most elegant of contemporary statements. Their knitted garments are a blend
of traditional and contemporary styles.
With the voluminous experience of this industry they have acknowledged the needs and
wants of their customers. Globally they are serving them with quality.

The source the garments keeping in mind the tastes and preferences of their clients both in
domestic as well as international territory. Their ensembles are noted for their quality
workmanship. They ensure that the fabric is of the finest quality and a lot of emphasis is laid
on the designs, color and strength of the fabric used.

The garment has made inroads in the international market and has etched a respectable place
for their company by catering to the needs and wants of their clients in the overseas markets.



9

TOTAL MANPOWER:

As employees are considered as the back bone of any organization. Fort
Wardrobe has also got such wide strengthen of Employees.

The total number of employees that including in all departments was
approximately 270 workers. These employees is worked on the basis of daily wages.
According to their work discipline their wages are to be differ. There are 30 and more
workers (i.e.) Supervisors, Executives, Managers and Other Administrative workers are work
on Salary based.

WORKING HOURS OF THE ORGANISATION:

The normal working hours oh the garment is from 09.00 am to 06.00 pm.
This time is to be proposed for the Superior Level Employees. But the garment was has
various timings for production level employees, It was scheduled on the shift basis and the
supervisors has also worked on shift basis. The production department has a scheduled from
5am to 12 pm , and 12 pm to 7 pm .

DEPARTMENT AND ITS ACTIVITY:

Human Resource Department:

The department works for the welfare of the employees as well as generally
calls as the Human Resource Department. It takes care of welfare of the employees, salary,
recruitment, selection, appointment, counseling to the employees, and settlement to the
employees at the time of retirement.






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Production Department:

Production is the functional area responsible for turning inputs into finished
outputs through a series of production processes. The Production Manager is responsible for
making sure that raw materials are provided and made into finished goods effectively. He or
she must make sure that work is carried out smoothly, and must supervise procedures for
making work more efficient and more enjoyable.

Five production sub-functions:

In the Production Department function may be split into five sub-functions:

1. The production and planning department will set standards and targets for each section of
the production process. The quantity and quality of products coming off a production line
will be closely monitored. In businesses focusing on lean production, quality will be
monitored by all employees at every stage of production, rather than at the end as is the case
for businesses using
2. The purchasing department will be responsible for providing the materials, components
and equipment required to keep the production process running smoothly. A vital aspect of
this role is ensuring stocks arrive on time and to the right quality.

3. The stores department will be responsible for stocking all the necessary tools, spares, raw
materials and equipment required to service the manufacturing process. Where sourcing is
unreliable, buffer stocks will need to be kept and the use of computerized stock control
systems helps keep stocks at a minimal but necessary level for production to continue
unhindered.

4. The design and technical support department will be responsible for researching new
products or modifications to existing ones, estimating costs for producing in different
quantities and by using different methods. It will also be responsible for the design and
testing of new product processes and product types, together with the development of
prototypes through to the final product. The technical support department may also be
responsible for work study and suggestions as to how working practices can be improved.
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5. The works department will be concerned with the manufacture of products. This will
include the maintenance of the production line and other necessary repairs. The works
department may also have responsibility for quality control and inspection.

A key aspect of modern production is ensuring quality. The term quality means fitness
for purpose i.e. a product, process or service should do exactly what is expected of it.

Customer Relation Management:
The Customer Relation Management is a department which solves the customer
problems. The main work of the CRM is to measure the satisfaction level of the customers.
The department which co ordinates with exists in the company.

Finance Department:
The department consists of ACCOUNTS and INSURANCE DEPARETMENTS
which takes care of the payment of their customers, Salary of the Employees and maintain
other financial problems.












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CHAPTER III
Process of Textile Manufacturing
Textile manufacturing is a major industry. It is based on the conversion of three types
of fibre into yarn, then fabric, then textiles. These are then fabricated into clothes or other
artefacts. Cotton remains the most important natural fibre, so is treated in depth. There are
many variable processes available at the spinning and fabric-forming stages coupled with the
complexities of the finishing and colouration processes to the production of a wide ranges of
products. There remains a large industry that uses hand techniques to achieve the same
results.

Processing of Cotton
Cotton is the world's most important natural fibre. In the year 2007, the global yield was 25
million tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries
There are six stages
Cultivating and Harvesting
Preparatory Processes
Spinning
Weaving or Knitting
Finishing
Marketing
PRODUCTION PROCESS

FABRIC RELAXING
Relaxing refers to the process that allows material to relax and contract prior to being
manufactured. This step is necessary because the material is continually under tension
throughout the various stages of the textile manufacturing process, including weaving,
dyeing, and other finishing processes. The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink so that
further shrinkage during customer use is minimized.
Garment manufacturers perform the relaxing process either manually or mechanically.
Manual fabric relaxing typically entails loading the bolt of fabric on a spinner and manually
feeding the material through a piece of equipment that relieves tension in the fabric as it is
13

pulled through. Mechanical fabric relaxing performs this same process in an automated
manner.
Many garment manufacturers will also integrate quality assurance into this process to ensure
that the quality of the fabric meets customer standards. This step is performed by manually
spot-checking each bolt of fabric using a backlit surface to identify manufacturing defects
such as color inconsistency or flaws in the material. Fabrics that fail to meet customer
standards are returned to the textile manufacturer.
YARN

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production
of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope making. Thread is a
type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads
may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing.
Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.

Structure of yarn:

Spun yarn is made by twisting or otherwise bonding staple fibres together to
make a cohesive thread. Twisting fibres into yarn in the process called spinning can
be dated back to the Upper Paleolithic, and yarn spinning was one of the very first
processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fibre, or be a
blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibres (which can have high strength,
lustre, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibres (which have good water
absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The most widely used
blends are cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fibre blends. Blends of different natural
fibres are common too, especially with more expensive fibres suc
h as angora and cashmere.
Yarns are made up of a number of plies, each ply being a single spun yarn. These
single plies of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a
thicker yarn
Filament yarn consists of filament fibres (very long continuous fibres) either
twisted together or only grouped together. Thicker monofilaments are typically used
14

for industrial purposes rather than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural
filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects.

Texturized yarns are made by a process of air texturizing (sometimes referred to
as taslanizing), which combines multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the
characteristics of spun yarns.


Measurement of yarn:
Craft yarns
Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams. In the
United States, Canada and Europe, balls of yarn for handcrafts are sold by weight.
Common sizes include 25g, 50g, and 100g skeins. Some companies also primarily
measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and
eight-ounce skeins. These measurements are taken at a standard temperature and
humidity, because yarn can absorb moisture from the air. The actual length of the yarn
contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the inherent heaviness of the fibre and the
thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of lace weight mohair may contain
several hundred meters, while a 50 g skein of bulky wool may contain only 60 meters.

There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to as weight. This is not to be
confused with the measurement of weight listed above. The Craft Yarn Council of
America is making an effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring
this, numbering the weights from 1 (finest) to 6 (heaviest)
[4]
. Some of the names for
the various weights of yarn from finest to thickest are called lace, fingering, sock,
sport, double-knit (or DK), worsted, aran, bulky, and super-bulky. This naming
convention is more descriptive than precise; fibre artists disagree about where on the
continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes.

15

A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps
per inch (wpi). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps
that fit in an inch is counted.
Labels on yarn for handcrafts often include information on gauge, known in
the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are
produced per inch or per centimeter on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet
hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-four inch/ten-by-ten centimeter
knitted or crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across and rows high
made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge.
Thread
Most types of embroidery thread come in a single size or weight; an exception
is pearl or perle cotton, which comes in three weights, No. 3 (heaviest), No. 5, and
No. 8 (finest).

Color of yarn

Yarn may be used undyed, or may be colored with natural or artificial dyes.
Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of variegated
yarns:

KNITTING

Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine
crafts. Knitting consists of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new
loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another
loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, often a
garment.

Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. By hand, numerous styles and methods of
knitting exist.

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Different yarns and knitting needles may be used to achieve different end products by
giving the final piece a different colour, texture, weight, or integrity. Using needles of
varying sharpness and thickness as well as different varieties of yarn adds to the effect.

Industrial Knitting Process
It is a known fact that the main material for fabric construction is yarn. Knitting is
the second most frequently used method, after weaving, that turns yarns or threads
into fabrics. It is a versatile technique that can make fabrics having various properties
such as wrinkle-resistance, stretchability, better fit, particularly demanded due to the
rising popularity of sports wear and casual wears. As of present day, knitted fabrics
are used widely for making hosiery, underwears, sweaters, slacks, suits and coats
apart from rugs and other home furnishings.

Knitting Industry
Knitting industry is a very complex one. It has two primary areas having their own sub
divisions of specialization. One of the key segment of knitting industry manufactures knitted
goods for garment manufacturers, sewing centers, and consumers among others. The other
one produces finished apparelssuch as hosiery, sweaters, underwear etc.

Basic Principles of Knitting
A knitted fabric may be made with a single yarn which is formed into interlocking loops
with the help of hooked needles. According to the purpose of the fabric, the loops may be
loosely or closely constructed. Crocheted fabric is the simplest example of knitting where a
chain of loops is constructed from a single thread with the help of a hook. As the loops are
interlocked in a knitted fabric, it can stretch in any direction even when a low-grade yarn
having little elasticity is used.

Importance of Needles in Knitting Process:
The needle quality also affect the knitted fabric's quality. If the thickness of the hook
differs from one needle to another then the stitches will also vary in width. Same is the case
with loops which will vary in length with the needle lengths. Various types of needles are
used for making different knitted fabrics including latch needle, spring-beard needle, and
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compound needle. Latch needle has a latch or swinging finger that closes onto the hook of the
needle as it pulls the yarn through a loop in order to form a new loop. It is used for jersey and
rib knitting. A spring-beard needle has a fine, springy hook looking like a beard. This hook
has to be used with a sinker to hold the fabric down and a presser to close the hook as it
forms the loop. It is used for making more fine fabrics with smaller loops. A compound
needle made up of a hook and a sliding closing element is used for faster knitting with lesser
fabric distortion.

DYEING

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth
or garment form by treatment with a dye. They produced artificial dyes to achieve a broader
range of colors, and to render the dyes more stable to resist washing and general use.
Different classes of dyes are used for different types of fibre and at different stages of the
textile production process, from loose fibres through yarn and cloth to completed garments.
Acrylic fibres are dyed with basic dyes, nylon and protein fibres such as wool and silk are
dyed with acid dyes, polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of
dye types, including vat dyes, which are similar to the ancient natural dyes, and modern
synthetic reactive and direct dyes.

Methods
Dyes are applied to textile goods by dyeing from dye solutions and by printing
from dye pastes.
Yarn dyeing
There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the at package form and the
at hanks form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are
dyed at hank form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are
always dyed at package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because
of technology.


18

The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is as
follows:
1. The raw yarn is wound on a spring tube to achieve a package suitable for dye
penetration.
2. These softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle one on
another.
3. The packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable density of
packing.
4. The carrier is loaded on the dyeing machine and the yarn is dyed.
5. After dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier into a trolly.
6. The packages are hydro extracted to remove the maximum amount of water.
7. The packages are then dried to achieve the final dyed package.
After this process, the dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered.

Removal of dyes

In order to remove natural or unwanted colour from material, the opposite process of
bleaching is carried out.
If things go wrong in the dyeing process, the dyer may be forced to remove the dye
already applied by a process that is normally known as stripping. This normally means
destroying the dye with powerful reducing agents (sodium hydrosulphite) or oxidizing agents
(hydrogen peroxide or sodium hypochlorite). The process often risks damaging the substrate
(fibre). Where possible, it is often less risky to dye the material a darker shade, with black
often being the easiest or last option.

Compacting
Knitted fabrics are dyed in the laboratory winch machine with commercial grade vinyl
sulphone reactive dye. Fabrics were dried and compacting was carried out in the commercial
Tube Tex machine at 95C in dry state.




19

CUTTING

The Cutting Process is done through Manual or by using machines. The clothing which
was ordered by the customer, the designing department makes measurements according to the
customer specifications.
The designed sketch which was designed was fed to cutting section. The sketch includes
the customers specifications. The sketch includes measurements of every fabrics and
according to that the fabric was cuts.
After the cutting process was completed the fabric was fed to the printing section if any
printing or embroyding .Otherwise the fabric was pass to stitching section.

TEXTILE PRINTING

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs.
In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist washing and
friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is
uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain
parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.
In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens are used
to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent
the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:
Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants
or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
The printing of a mordant in the desired pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color
adheres only where the mordant was printed.
Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is
subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns
against a coloured ground.
Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed
fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.
20


Methods of Printing

Although most work is executed throughout by one or other of the seven distinct
processes mentioned above, combinations of them are not infrequently employed. Sometimes
a pattern is printed partly by machine and partly by block; and sometimes a cylindrical block
is used along with engraved copper-rollers in the ordinary printing machine. The block in this
latter case is in all respects, except that of shape, identical with a flat wood or coppered block,
but, instead of being dipped in colour, it receives its supply from an endless blanket, one part
of which works in contact with colour-furnishing rollers and the other part with the
cylindrical block. This block is known as a surface or peg roller. Many attempts have been
made to print multicolour patterns with surface rollers alone, but hitherto with little success,
owing to their irregularity in action and to the difficulty of preventing them from warping.
These defects are not present in the printing of linoleum in which opaque oil colours are used,
colours that neither sink into the body of the hard linoleum nor tend to warp the roller

Preparation of cloth for printing

Goods intended for calico printing ought to be exceptionally well-bleached, otherwise
mysterious stains, and other serious defects, are certain to arise during subsequent operations.
The chemical preparations used for special styles will be mentioned in their proper
places; but a general prepare, employed for most colours that are developed and fixed by
steaming only, consists in passing the bleached calico through a weak solution of sulfated or
turkey red oil containing from 21/2 per cent, to 5 per cent, of fatty acid. Some colours are
printed on pure bleached cloth, but all patterns containing alizarine red, rose and salmon
shades, are considerably brightened by the presence of oil, and indeed very few, if any,
colours are detrimentally affected by it.




21

SEWING
Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and
thread. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a
variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding
and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process
underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting,
appliqu and patchwork.
The basic process of sewing involves fastening of fabrics, leather, furs or similar other
flexible materials with the help of needle and threads. Sewing is mainly used to
manufacture clothing and home furnishings. In fact, sewing is one of the important processes
in apparel making. Most of such industrial sewing is done by industrial sewing machines. The
cut pieces of a garment are generally tacked, or temporarily stitched at the initial stage. The
complex parts of the machine then pierces thread through the layers of the cloth and
interlocks the thread.
Pre sewing functions
Before the actual task of sewing begins, there are certain other tasks that have to be taken
care of which can be termed as fabric handling functions- Ply separation; Placing the fabric
on working table; Guiding the fabric towards sewing needle; and tension control of fabric
during the sewing process.
While ply separation, stacks of fabric plies are sequentially positioned with the help of
some feeding apparatus in an unloading position. The uppermost ply in such a stack is
individually and sequentially separated from the stack. In the process, an edge of the
separated fabric is presented between the jaws of a gripping device. A proximity switch
determines the spacing between the gripper jaws. When this spacing confirms that only one
fabric ply is in place between the jaws, the single ply is transferred over onto the receiving
end of a conveyor for further processing. In aerodynamic technique, the uppermost ply of
fabric is lifted by suction from the remainder of the stack.
When the fabric is placed on the working table, the tasks that are performed before the
sewing process include - recognizing the fabric's shape, edges that will be sewn, planning of
the sewing process and identification of the seam line.
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Elements: stitches and seams:
Whether the object to be sewn is made of leather, fabric, paper, or plastic, the basic
components of sewing are the same: stitches and seams.
In sewing, a stitch is a single loop of thread brought in-and-out of the fabric in a particular
way.
[2]
A variety of stitches are used for specific purposes, named according to the position of
the needle and direction of sewing (running stitch, backstitch), the form or shape of the stitch
(chainstitch, feather stitch) or the purpose of the stitch (tailor's tack, hem stitch).
[3]

Basic machine stitches are chainstitch, lockstitch, and overlock. Fancy machine stitches
mimic traditional hand stitches using variations on the basic stitches.
[3]

A row of stitches fastening two objects together is called a seam. Seams are classified by
their position in the finished object (center back seam, side seam) and by their construction
(flat-felled seam).

Types:
Plain sewing: The making or mending of clothing or household linens
Fancy sewing: Also fancywork. Purely decorative techniques such as shirring,
smocking, and embroidery.
Heirloom sewing: The imitation of fine hand-sewing and fancywork using a
sewing machine and purchased trimmings.
Sewing machine:
A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric or other material together
with thread. Home sewing machines are all similar -- designed for one person to manually
sew individual items while using a single stitch type. Modern sewing machines are designed
in such a way that the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine without the hassle of
needles and thimbles and other such tools used in hand sewing, automating the process of
stitching and saving time.

The fabric shifting mechanism may be a workguide or may be pattern-controlled. Some
machines can create embroidery-type stitches. Some have a work holder frame. Some have a
workfeeder that can move along a curved path, while others have a workfeeder with a work
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clamp. Needle guards, safety devices to prevent accidental needle-stick injuries, are often
found on modern sewing machines.

SPOT CLEANING AND LAUNDRY
In addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked with performing
quality assurance are also looking for cosmetic flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment
that may have occurred during the cutting and sewing processes. Spots are often marked with
a sticker and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment is cleaned using steam, hot
water, or chemical stain removers.
Some customers request that a garment be fully laundered after it is sewn and
assembled; therefore, garment factories often have an on-site laundry or have subcontract
agreements with off-site laundry operations. Commercial laundry facilities are equipped with
at least three types of machines: washers, spinners, and dryers. Some facilities also have the
capability to perform special treatments, such as stone- or acid-washing.
Ironing
After a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the
facility for final pressing. Each ironing station consists of an iron and an ironing platform.
The irons are similar looking to residential models, but have steam supplied by an on-site
boiler. Workers control the steam with foot pedals and the steam is delivered via overhead
hoses directly to the iron. In most facilities, the ironing platforms are equipped with a
ventilation system that draws steam through the ironing table and exhausts it outside the
factory.
Packaging and Shipping
In the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and
packaged according to customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective
plastic bags, either manually or using an automated system, to ensure that the material stays
clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are placed in cardboard boxes and
shipped to client distribution centers to eventually be sold in retail stores.

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QUALITY MANAGEMENT
Quality Control of Garments:
Testing is a valuable aid for textile production, distribution, and consumption. During
textiles testing the variation of a fibre or fabric i.e. length, colour, fineness, threads per inch,
cover factor, is detected properly. Continuous test of the textiles results a enhanced and
efficient output of the production. By Apparel Testing we can evaluate and ensure the quality
of the garments to be used by the end users.
Importance of Apparel Testing
Textile and apparel testing is vital for Fashion industry and conducted so that apparel
manufactures clothing retailers and fashion wholesalers can evaluate and ensure the quality of
the garments they manufacture and sell is safe to use by consumers and fit for the purpose,
conforms to international or regional compliance, retain performance specification, quality
standards, meets product liability, environmental and other current legislation, prevent recalls
and promote repeat sales.
It is important for the manufacturers to learn and understand about fabric testing
methods set by retailers and to stay compliant in regard to quality. If a clothing manufacturer
does not know the retailer testing standard requirements that company may run into problems
such as receiving a chargeback claims or returned merchandise.
Typically, a retailer will require that testing be conducted at a third party laboratory so
that factories are not tempted to manipulate the testing results. In addition to avoiding test
altering, using a qualified third party lab will help insure that the "proper" fabric testing
method are used
It is important to note that all standards and regulations encapsulated in the Textile
Apparel testing have one or both of the following aims: Safety and Quality. While quality is
related more to general consumer satisfaction, safety is an important aspect as products not
meeting regulations can jeopardize the health of the consumer.
Many internationally recognized standards and practices for testing yarn, fabrics,
clothing etc. are applicable for Europe and United States and broadly denoted by the name of
well recognized institutions which developed them. Some tests are highly specialized in
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nature, but there is a core series of tests that are applicable depending on the end use of the
products. Methodology and equipment may vary among regional labs but basic objectives
remain the same.
Explanation of some of the Tests
Appearance Evaluation after Home laundering and dry-cleaning: Test method to
evaluate overall general appearance of a garment and other textile products after repeated
home laundering and dry-cleaning.
Colorfastness to accelerated Laundering: Test to evaluate the colorfastness properties like
color loss, bleeding and surface changes of textiles that intended to be laundered frequently.
Colorfastness to Crocking: Test to evaluate the degree of color, which may be transferred
from the surface of colored textile material to other surfaces by rubbing action such as
upholstery, carpet and other wearing apparel in the normal course of use.
Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles during
commercial dry-cleaning.
Colorfastness to Home Laundering: test to evaluate the colorfastness properties of textiles
during actual home laundering process as followed by consumer.
Colorfastness to Light: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles when subject to
light exposure.
Colorfastness to Non Chlorine Bleach: Test to evaluate the colorfastness performance of a
textile fabric when subjected to the action of Non-Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Perspiration: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property to Textiles to the
effect of perspiration on textile.
Colorfastness to Pool Water: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles to the
effect of chlorinated poor water.
Colorfastness to Sea Water: Test to evaluate the colorfastness property of Textiles to the
effect of sea water.
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Dimensional stability to dry-clean: Test to determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage or
elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subject to commercial dry-cleaning.
Dimensional stability to Home Laundering: Test to determine the dimensional stability
(shrinkage or elongation) in woven and knit fabrics when subjected to home laundering
Fabric weight: Test to determine the weight of textile fabrics in garments generally at 70
Fare height/21 degrees Celsius and 65% relative humidity.
Fiber content: test to determine the fiber composition of textile goods through special,
microscopic and chemical methods.
Flammability: The purpose of this test is to test and rate the flammability of textiles and
discouraging the use of any dangerously flammable clothing.
Formaldehyde: Test to determine the residual presence of Formaldehyde in textile products
finished with chemicals containing formaldehyde.
Lead Content: Test to determine any usage of lead or lead contaminants in excess of 0.06%
of the weight of total nonvolatile content of paint.
Mechanical Hazard/Sharp edges: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by
infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by laceration or incision.
Mechanical Hard/Sharp Points: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by
infants/toddlers for any measurable risk of injury by puncture or laceration.
Mechanical Hazard/Small parts: Test to evaluate clothing or toys intended for use by
infants/toddlers for any unreasonable risk of small parts choking hazard.
PH Value: Test to indicate the efficiency of washing operation after various wet treatment
either bleaching or scouring.
Seam Slippage: Test to evaluate the resistance to yarn slippage at sewn seams in woven
fabric when a load is applied at seams.
Seam Strength: Test to measure the maximum seam strength which can be achieved in
woven fabrics when a force is applied perpendicular to the seam.
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Skewness in Fabric: Test to evaluate percentage of torque in a garment, which may occur
during laundering procedures commonly used by consumers at home
Snap/De-snap: test to determine the force required to disengage snap fastness by a pull
perpendicular and parallel with the plain of the snap fastener.
Tearing Strength: Test to determine the average force required to continue a tear from a cut
in a woven fabric by means of falling apparatus.
Tensile Strength: Test to determine the breaking strength and elongation of most textile
fabrics. Not recommended for knit fabrics or fabrics with high stretch value.
Thread Count: Test to determine the number of Warp and Weft yarns or Wales/courses per
unit distance in woven or knitted fabrics respectively.
Water Repellency: Test to indicate the resistance of fabrics to get the wet by water.
Yarn size: Test to determine the size of fineness (linear density of a yarn expressed either as
mass per unit length or length per unit mass depending upon yarn numbering system of all
types of cotton, woolen, worsted or manmade fabrics in measurable length.)

Fabric Quality:

The word quality in knitted fabric sometimes is used to describe the loop density of
particular fabric.
This dimension, loop density, is the most important one in defining knitted fabric
properties, and is directly related to fabric appearance, weight per unit area, thickness, drape.
The loop length is the single unit cell formed in knitted fabric and is directly related to
loop density
In general, as the loop size increases, the loop density decreases.





28

Measurement of fabric (Relaxation)

It is difficult to measure the dimensions and quantities of cotton fabric because of the
extensible nature of the material and the possibility that it is under stress in the time of
measurement. Knitted fabric may change dimensions with time, handling and with
subsequent wet treatments including steaming, and such change can occur after garment has
been produced and sold to public. The concept of relaxation stated for knitted fabric is used.
Quality control must ensure that before knitted garments are cut, the fabric is in a relaxed
or near relaxed condition (i.e.) there will be little shrinkage of the fabric/garment when it is in
the consumer hands)
Most test procedures involve agitation in aqueous solution followed by measurement
under water, and spinning and tumble drying. They attempt to reproduce the conditions under
which the garment will be laundered during usage.

Knitted Faults

It can be grouped into horizontal and vertical components. Different course lengths
variation is one of the horizontal fault. Most faults in horizontal barring are connected in
some repect of yarn used.

Horizontal faults

* Uneven counts between yam;
* Uneven counts within yarns;
* Different dyeing shades between yarn;
* Different dyeing within one yarn;
* Different spinning/batch source of yarn;
* Different heat treatment given to man-made yarns.





29

Vertical faults

Vertical faults are resulted from the knitting process but can occur with finishing. A
common vertical fault is a needle line. It is because a faulty needle may produce a wale
slightly larger or smaller or distorted loop. Really faulty needles result in vertical lines of
occasional tuck stitches.

Stains

The knitting industry, unlike weaving, uses oil to lubricate machinery where the fabric is
being produced. (i.e on needles themselves). Such oil mixed with dust and metallic powder
can, cause stain on the fabric being knitted.

Minimise the stains
1. Control of the oil itself, by applying it in minimum quantities and delivering it
continuously, so that it present in the fabric but does not show up in any build up of soiled
material.
2. Using oils that are readily mixed with water, so called scour able or clean oils.
The majority of knitted piece goods are wet finished before cutting and
therefore, little oil staining will remain in finished fabric.
On stitch-shaped garment,, tight control is needed as they are not wet finished,
stains are dealt with during examination by solvent based spotting guns.
The problem is negligible in fully fashioned where oil is not used on the needles
and where wet finishing is usual.






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PACKAGING
After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio
wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information
in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily.


It was the process which was done at final stage of fabric production. The clothing which was
finished is completed finally by labeling the product name or brand name. After finishing the
labeling the brand tags and the price tags was stitched into the cloths.
Then it was covered with a qualified material such as paper and pack it into a box. Then
the large quantities of the clothing product were packed and then pass it to the buyers.
In the buyers side, the ordered products was checked and verified and then it feds to the
sales department.