Line Balancing PDF

Association
of
Universities for Textiles

E-TEAM
European Masters in Advanced Textile Engineering

"Analysis of Assembly Line Balancing in
Garment Production by Simulation
In the context of Lean Manufacturing and the TPS

Lina Katharina Rambausek

Promoter:
Prof. Dr. Fatma Kalaolu,
Technical University Istanbul, Istanbul, Turkey
Prof. Dr. Mario Arajo,
University of Minho, De Minho, Portugal

Academic year: 2007-2008
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Abstract
Subject of this dissertation is the analysis of assembly line balancing in garment
production by simulation. Aspects of Lean Manufacturing (LM) and the Toyota
Production System (TPS) will be discussed in reference to the simulation experi-
ments. The analysis is accomplished with help of a simulation program, Enter-
prise Dynamics. The thesis is developed in connection to the master study pro-
gram European Masters in Advanced Textile Engineering which is organised by
the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX).
The results are based on primary research and knowledge that was gained mainly
during the stay at the Technical University Istanbul, Turkey, as well as on field trips
to companies in the sector of garment production. The dissertation highlights
weaknesses and constraints in the application of simulation programs concerning
garment production. It further explores the opportunities a simulation program
could offer European manufacturers in order to stay competitive.
Also in the textile sector, best practices as they are applied at other producing
companies should be considered, and seen as benchmark. According to Jeffrey K.
Liker (2004)
1
the Japanese car manufacturer Toyota had its origin in the textile
sector, the weaving industry. It stands to reason that the ideas of the car manufac-
turing system today could be applied by the way of knowledge transfer to fields of
textile production. This thesis will focus on the idea of LM (Lean Manufacturing) as
well as on the strongly connected TPS (Toyota Production System).
The outcomes of this dissertation is intended to give applicants of simulation pro-
grams in the textile field an overview about the options to improve their business
with simulation. It will focus on opportunities and constraints of using a simulation
program within the application of production line balancing.

Keywords: Line Balancing, Garment Manufacturing, Simulation Software, Enter-
prise Dynamics, Lean Manufacturing, Toyota Production System

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Table of Content
ABSTRACT .............................................................................................................I
TABLE OF CONTENT............................................................................................II
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS................................................................................... VI
LIST OF TABLES............................................................................................... VIII
LIST OF EQUATIONS........................................................................................... X
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS.................................................................................. XI
PREFACE............................................................................................................ XII
DECLARATION.................................................................................................. XIII
SUMMARY.......................................................................................................... XIV
1 INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................1
2 OBJECTIVES..................................................................................................6
3 APPROACH ....................................................................................................7
4 THE MANUFACTURING CONCEPTS............................................................9
4.1 Progressive Bundle System (PBS).................................................................................... 9
4.1.1 Concept........................................................................................................................ 9
4.1.2 Advantages of PBS...................................................................................................... 9
4.1.3 Disadvantages of PBS................................................................................................. 9
4.2 Modular Manufacturing (MM) ........................................................................................... 10
4.2.1 Concept...................................................................................................................... 10
4.2.2 Advantages of MM..................................................................................................... 11
4.2.3 Disadvantages of MM................................................................................................ 12
4.3 Lean Manufacturing (LM)
,
................................................................................................. 12
4.3.1 Concept...................................................................................................................... 13
4.3.1.1 Pull system........................................................................................................ 13
4.3.1.2 One-piece flow .................................................................................................. 14
4.3.1.3 Value-added ratio.............................................................................................. 14
4.3.1.4 Handling reduction ............................................................................................ 16
4.3.1.5 Single minute exchange of die (SMED) ............................................................ 16
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4.3.1.6 Standard work ................................................................................................... 16
4.3.1.7 Takt time............................................................................................................ 16
4.3.1.8 Line balancing ................................................................................................... 16
4.3.1.9 Productivity........................................................................................................ 17
4.3.1.10 Flow velocity ................................................................................................. 17
4.3.2 Advantages of LM: ..................................................................................................... 17
4.3.3 Disadvantages of LM................................................................................................. 18
4.3.4 Toyota Production System
,
........................................................................................ 18
4.4 Mixed Manufacturing Module Design - Hybrid Version................................................. 21
5 ISTCOMP.......................................................................................................22
5.1 Data base ........................................................................................................................... 22
5.2 Product ............................................................................................................................... 22
5.3 Layout................................................................................................................................. 23
5.3.1 Section I & II. in detail ................................................................................................ 29
5.3.2 I. Body - Subassembly............................................................................................... 30
5.3.3 II. Collar and Lining Subassembly ............................................................................. 34
5.3.4 Section III.& IV in detail.............................................................................................. 38
5.3.5 III. Sleeve Subassembly ............................................................................................ 39
5.3.6 IV Final Assembly ...................................................................................................... 41
5.3.7 Workforce................................................................................................................... 45
5.4 The work flow .................................................................................................................... 49
5.5 Time Studies...................................................................................................................... 55
6 LINE BALANCING........................................................................................59
6.1 Line Balancing in general
,
................................................................................................ 59
6.2 Line balancing at HUGO BOSS........................................................................................ 66
6.2.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 66
6.2.2 Production site ........................................................................................................... 66
6.2.3 Workforce................................................................................................................... 67
6.2.4 General system of planning: ...................................................................................... 67
6.2.5 Efficiency.................................................................................................................... 69
6.2.6 Special conditions in Dynamic lines........................................................................... 73
6.3 Simulation.......................................................................................................................... 74
6.4 Line Balancing in garment production ........................................................................... 75
7 SOFTWARE ENTERPRISE DYNAMICS
,
......................................................77
7.1 Application
,,,
....................................................................................................................... 77
7.1.1 Model ......................................................................................................................... 77
7.1.2 Simulate ..................................................................................................................... 78
7.1.3 Visualize..................................................................................................................... 78
7.1.4 Control ....................................................................................................................... 78
7.2 User .................................................................................................................................... 79
7.3 Data..................................................................................................................................... 82
8 SIMULATION MODEL...................................................................................83
8.1 Simplifications................................................................................................................... 83
8.2 Aspects of Lean Manufacturing....................................................................................... 84
8.3 Setup process.................................................................................................................... 85
9 EXPERIMENTS.............................................................................................93
9.1 Experiment A0 ................................................................................................................... 97
9.1.1 Results of experiment A0........................................................................................... 97
9.2 Experiment A1 ................................................................................................................... 99
9.2.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment A1 ..................................................................... 99
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9.2.2 A1 Changes ............................................................................................................. 101
9.2.3 Results of experiment A1......................................................................................... 103
9.3 Experiment A2 ................................................................................................................. 103
9.3.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment A2 ................................................................... 103
9.3.2 A2 Changes ............................................................................................................. 103
9.3.3 Results of Experiment A2: ....................................................................................... 106
9.4 Experiment A3 ................................................................................................................. 106
9.4.2 A3 Changes ............................................................................................................. 106
9.5 Experiment A4 ................................................................................................................. 107
9.5.2 A4 Changes ............................................................................................................. 108
9.6 Overview experiment A .................................................................................................. 109
9.6.1 Output ...................................................................................................................... 110
9.6.2 Takt time .................................................................................................................. 111
9.6.3 Number of operators................................................................................................ 112
9.6.4 Productivity per operator.......................................................................................... 113
9.6.5 Average content in subassembly queues................................................................ 114
9.6.6 Average stay time of the product in the queue........................................................ 116
9.6.7 WIP values............................................................................................................... 119
9.6.8 Throughput time....................................................................................................... 120
9.7 Experiment B................................................................................................................... 121
9.8 Experiment B1 ................................................................................................................. 121
9.8.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment B1 ................................................................... 121
9.8.2 B1 Changes ............................................................................................................. 121
9.8.3 Results of experiment B1......................................................................................... 124
9.9 Experiment B2 ................................................................................................................. 124
9.9.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment B2 ................................................................... 125
9.9.2 B2 Changes ............................................................................................................. 125
9.9.3 Results of experiment B2......................................................................................... 126
9.10 Overview experiment B .................................................................................................. 127
9.10.1 Output ...................................................................................................................... 127
9.10.2 Number of Operators ............................................................................................... 128
9.10.3 Productivity per operator.......................................................................................... 130
10 CONCLUSION.........................................................................................133
10.1 Strengths.......................................................................................................................... 133
10.2 Weaknesses..................................................................................................................... 134
10.3 Opportunities................................................................................................................... 135
10.4 Threats ............................................................................................................................. 135
10.5 Personal problems of the author................................................................................... 136
10.6 Future outlook ................................................................................................................. 137
A. APPENDIX A ...........................................................................................139
A.1 List of minimum wages by country ..................................................................................... 139
B. APPENDIX B ...........................................................................................141
B.1 Data Basis Machinery ........................................................................................................ 141
C. APPENDIX C ...........................................................................................147
C1. ED System requirements: .............................................................................................. 147
D. APPENDIX D ...........................................................................................148
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D1. Simulation Model Layout................................................................................................ 148
E. APPENDIX E...............................................................................................149
Overview experiment A ............................................................................................................... 149
E1. Output of the sections individually ............................................................................... 149
E2. Number of operators per section .................................................................................. 150
E3. Number of operators per section .................................................................................. 152
F. APPENDIX F ...............................................................................................154
Overview experiment B ............................................................................................................... 154
F1. List of operators and their assignments to servers according to Layout of ISTCOMP
154
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES .................................................................156

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List of Illustrations
Fig. 3-1 Procedural method........................................................................................................... 8
Fig. 4-1 Value added vs. Non-value-added activities.................................................................. 15
Fig. 4-2 Potential effect on Lead time after reducing non-value-added activities by 50%.......... 15
Fig. 4-3 Decision tree for evaluation of processes...................................................................... 20
Fig. 5-1 Ladies jacket basic model ............................................................................................. 23
Fig. 5-2 Drawing of ladies jacket production line (sections I & II) .............................................. 24
Fig. 5-3 Advanced sketch of the production line (all sections).................................................... 24
Fig. 5-4 Layout ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008...................................... 27
Fig. 5-5 Layout ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008 (part1/2) ....................... 29
Fig. 5-6 Area which is worked-on in section I. Body ................................................................... 30
Fig. 5-7 Parts which are worked on in section II.C&L ................................................................. 34
Fig. 5-8 Layout Ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008 (part2/2) ...................... 38
Fig. 5-9 Parts which are sub-assembled in section III ................................................................ 39
Fig. 5-10 Parts which are assembled in section IV: .................................................................... 41
Fig. 5-11 Number of workers I .................................................................................................... 46
Fig. 5-12 Number. of workers II .................................................................................................. 46
Fig. 5-13 Average age of the workers......................................................................................... 47
Fig. 5-14 Average experience in this job..................................................................................... 47
Fig. 5-15 Number of operations the operators are trained-in...................................................... 48
Fig. 5-16 Work flow chart Ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008 .................... 50
Fig. 5-17 Work flow chart Ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008 (part1/4)

..... 51

..... 52

..... 53

..... 54
Fig. 5-21 REFA standard form for time studies........................................................................... 56
Fig. 5-22 REFA standard form for time studies additional side................................................... 57
Fig. 6-1 Work element sharing.................................................................................................... 63
Fig. 6-2 Division of work element ................................................................................................ 64
Fig. 6-3 Assembly sequence....................................................................................................... 65
Fig. 6-4 Hierarchies at HB........................................................................................................... 67
Fig. 7-1 Logo of the simulation software Enterprise Dynamics................................................... 77
Fig. 7-2 VR-simulation of a warehouse system & a production line with the ED Logistic Suite . 80
Fig. 8-1 The layout of the simulation model ................................................................................ 85
Fig. 8-2 The atoms source, queue, server and assembler ......................................................... 86
Fig. 8-3 Simulation model after the channels are connected...................................................... 86
Fig. 8-4 Simulation model after the channels are connected (more detailed) ............................ 87
Fig. 8-5 Application of the values of operation 7 in Stat:Fit ...................................................... 88
Fig. 8-6 Changing the atoms properties...................................................................................... 90
Fig. 8-7 After a test run of 90 hours the output volume is 7582 units. ........................................ 91
Fig. 8-8 3D Model View after inserting the atom VR building ................................................... 92
Fig. 9-1 Experimentation Wizard................................................................................................. 95
Fig. 9-2 Experimentation Wizard, Performance Measures PFM ................................................ 96
Fig. 9-3 Library Tree ED............................................................................................................ 100
Fig. 9-4 Status Monitor .............................................................................................................. 100
Fig. 9-5 Monitor ......................................................................................................................... 101
Fig. 9-6 Output per shift of entire production line...................................................................... 110
Fig. 9-7 Takt time of the entire production line.......................................................................... 111
Fig. 9-8 Total number of operators of the production line......................................................... 112
Fig. 9-9 Productivity per operator [units/operator]..................................................................... 113
Fig. 9-10 Average content in the sections queues................................................................... 115
Fig. 9-11 Average content in the section queue IIIb. Sleeve Prep............................................ 116
Fig. 9-12 Average stay time in the sections queues ................................................................ 118
Fig. 9-13 Average stay time in the section IIIb. Sleeve Preparation Queue ............................. 118
Fig. 9-14 WIP values of the entire production line according to values of A0 to A4................. 119
Fig. 9-15 Throughput time of the entire production line according to values of A0 to A4......... 120
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Fig. 9-16 Total output of the entire production line ................................................................... 127
Fig. 9-17 Number of operators entire production line ............................................................... 128
Fig. 9-18 Number of operators per section ............................................................................... 130
Fig. 9-19 Prodctivity per worker ................................................................................................ 131
Fig. 9-20 Overview B - Productivity of operators per section.................................................... 132
Fig. B-1 Machinery at ISTCOMP within the sections I. Body and II. C&L................................. 145
Fig. B-2 Machinery at ISTCOMP within the sections III. Sleeve and IV. Assembly.................. 146
Fig. D-1 Enterprise Dynamics simulation model layout .......................................................... 148
Fig. D-2Enterprise Dynamics simulation model layout with connections ............................... 148
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List of Tables
Table 4-1 Areas in which waste can be avoided......................................................................... 19
Table 5-1 Example: Code in section II. Collar & Lining............................................................... 25
Table 5-2 Example: Code in section II. Collar & Lining............................................................... 26
Table 5-3 Number of operations per section............................................................................... 28
Table 5-4 Operations of section I. Body - Subassembly (part 1/4) ............................................. 30
Table 5-8 Operations of section II. Collar and Lining - Subassembly (part 1/4) ......................... 34
Table 5-9 Operations of section II. Collar and Lining - Subassembly (part 2/4) ......................... 35
Table 5-10 Operations of section II. Collar and Lining - Subassembly (part 3/4) ....................... 36
Table 5-11 Operations of section II. Collar and Lining - Subassembly (part 4/4) ....................... 37
Table 5-12 Operations section III. Sleeve Subassembly (part 1/2.............................................. 39
Table 5-13 Operations section III. Sleeve Subassembly (part 2/2) ............................................ 40
Table 5-14 Operations of section IV Final Assembly (part 1/4) .................................................. 41
Table 5-18 Number of workers per section................................................................................. 45
Table 5-19 Standard symbols determined by The American Society of Mechanical Engineers 49
Table 6-1 Example calculation 1................................................................................................. 60
Table 6-4 Example: Operator A fulfils 4 different operations ...................................................... 71
Table 6-5 Line balancing sheet at HB......................................................................................... 72
Table 7-1 Overview Application fields and clients....................................................................... 79
Table 8-1 Operations and their distributions (part 1/3) ............................................................... 88
Table 8-2 Operations and their distributions (part 2/3) .............................................................. 89
Table 8-3 Operations and their distributions (part 3/3) .............................................................. 90
Table 9-1 Output values experiment A0...................................................................................... 98
Table 9-2 Input values experiment A0 ........................................................................................ 98
Table 9-3 A1 - 1st Change - results gained through simulation................................................ 101
Table 9-4 A1 2nd Change - results gained through simulation................................................. 102
Table 9-5 Effect of the changes in experiment A1.................................................................... 102
Table 9-6 A2 1
st
Change - results gained through simulation................................................... 104
Table 9-7 A2 2
nd
Change - results gained through simulation .................................................. 104
Table 9-8 A2 3
rd
Table 9-9 A2 4
th
Table 9-10 Effect of the changes in experiment A2.................................................................. 105
Table 9-11 A3 Changes- results gained through simulation..................................................... 107
Table 9-12 A4 changes Reduction in queue size .................................................................. 108
Table 9-13 A4 Change in WIP value......................................................................................... 109
Table 9-14 A4 Change in Throughput time............................................................................... 109
Table 9-15 Overview experiment A Output volume of the entire manufacturing line (1/2) .... 110
Table 9-16 Overview experiment A Output volume of the entire manufacturing line (2/2) .... 110
Table 9-17 Overview experiment A Takt time of the entire production line ........................... 111
Table 9-18 Overview experiment A Number of operators of the entire production line......... 112
Table 9-19 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators (output/no. of operator).......... 113
Table 9-20 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section I. Body................. 114
Table 9-21 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section II. Collar & Lining 114
Table 9-22 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section III. Sleeve............ 114
Table 9-23 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section IIIb. Sleeve Prep. 115
Table 9-24 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section I Body ............... 116
Table 9-25 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section II Collar & Lining116
Table 9-26 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section III Sleeve .......... 117
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Table 9-27 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section IIIb. Sleeve Prep.117
Table 9-28 Overview experiment A WIP values .................................................................... 119
Table 9-29 Overview experiment A Throughput time of the production line.......................... 120
Table 9-30 Number of operators entire line .............................................................................. 124
Table 9-31 Output entire line..................................................................................................... 124
Table 9-32 Number of operators of the entire production line. ................................................. 126
Table 9-33 Output volume of the total production line .............................................................. 126
Table 9-34 Overview B - Output of the entire production line................................................... 127
Table 9-35 overview B Total number of Operators................................................................ 128
Table 9-36 overview B Total number of Operators comparison A0 to B2 ............................. 128
Table 9-37 Overview B - Operator number within section I. Body............................................ 129
Table 9-38 Overview B - Operator number within section IV. Assembly.................................. 129
Table 9-39 Overview B Productivity per operator entire production line................................ 130
Table 9-40 Overview B Productivity per operator entire production line, A0 vs. B2.............. 130
Table 9-41 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section I. Body....................................... 131
Table 9-42 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section II. C&L....................................... 131
Table 9-43 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section III. Sleeve.................................. 132
Table 9-44 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section IV. Assembly............................. 132
Table A-1 Monthly gross minimum wage rates of an full-time adult employees. aged 23+ [1] 139
Table B-1 Machinery at ISTCOMP............................................................................................ 141
Table C-1 Hardware configurations .......................................................................................... 147
Table E-1 Overview experiment A Output volume per shift section I. Body .......................... 149
Table E-2 Overview experiment A Output volume per shift section II. Collar & Lining.......... 149
Table E-3 Overview experiment A Output volume Section III. Sleeve................................... 149
Table E-4 Overview experiment A Output volume section IIIb. Sleeve Preparation ............. 150
Table E-5 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section I. Body and II. C&L ....... 150
Table E-6 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section II. C&L........................... 150
Table E-7 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section III. Sleeve...................... 151
Table E-8 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section IIIb. Sleeve Prep. .......... 151
Table E-9 Overview experiment A number of operators in section IV. Assembly ................. 151
Table E-10 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section I. . 152
Table E-11 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section II. 152
Table E-12 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section III. 152
Table E-13 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section IIIb.153
Table E-14 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section IV.153
Table F-1 Assignment of operators to operations at ISTCOMP (part 1/2)................................ 154
Table F-2 Assignment of operators to operations at ISTCOMP (part 22)................................. 155

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List of Equations

Equation 1-1 Productivity .............................................................................................................. 3
Equation 1-2 Labour productivity .................................................................................................. 3
Equation 1-3 Takt time.................................................................................................................. 4
Equation 4-1 Lead time............................................................................................................... 14
Equation 4-2 Value added ratio................................................................................................... 14
Equation 4-3 Takt time................................................................................................................ 16
Equation 5-1 Average level of effort............................................................................................ 57
Equation 5-2 Average of measure times..................................................................................... 57
Equation 5-3 Standard time ........................................................................................................ 57
Equation 6-1 Efficiency in line balancing .................................................................................... 60
Equation 6-2 Idle time in line balancing ...................................................................................... 60
Equation 6-3 Demand for manpower .......................................................................................... 61
Equation 6-4 Group efficiency..................................................................................................... 69
Equation 6-5 Group performance................................................................................................ 70
Equation 6-6 Personal efficiency................................................................................................. 70
Equation 6-7 Personal performance ........................................................................................... 71
Equation 6-8 Output volume according to HB............................................................................. 72
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List of Abbreviations
ADO ActiveX for Data Objects
AUTEX Association of Universities for Textiles
CAD Computer Added Design
DCT Data Collection Terminal
DDE Dynamic Data Exchange
FedEE Federation of European Employers
FGI Finished Goods inventory
GSD General Sewing Standards
HB Hugo Boss
HV Hybrid Version
LM Lean Manufacturing
MM Modular Manufacturing
MTM Motion Time Measurement
ODBC Open Database Connectivity
OEE Overall equipment effectiveness
OPEX Operational Excellence
PBS Progressive Bundle System
PFM Performance Measures
RFT Right-First-Time
SMED Single minute exchange of die
SQL Structured Query Language
SWOT Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities & Threats
TEM Total production maintenance program
TPM Total productivity maintenance
TQM Total Quality management
TPS Toyota Production System
TSS Toyota Sewn System Manufacturing Module Design
VR Virtual Reality
VSM Value Stream Mapping
WIP Work-in-process / Work-in-progress

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Preface
The dissertation is part of the two year postgraduate study program European
Masters in Advanced Textile Engineering which is organised by the Association of
Universities for Textiles. The thesis was written in the final semester at the Techni-
cal University Istanbul, Turkey.
As of now, the use of simulation programs in production processes in the textile
industry is rare. Production planning is practical oriented, rather based on state of
the art production planning techniques than on experience. The advantages a
simulation program could offer the user, are not widely known, so the interest in
investing in new techniques, with an eye on time and money, is low. The necessity
to improve the companies ways in production planning is often neglected. An im-
portant planning tool in production is line balancing. In this paper, the technique of
line balancing is combined with the use of a simulation program to show the pos-
sibilities and constraints of simulation in production line balancing.
The supervisors for this thesis are Prof. Dr. Fatma Kalaolu, Technical University
Istanbul, Turkey, and Prof. Mario de Arajo, University of Minho, Portugal.
Specially mentioned should be besides several other companies I visited, the
company Altnyldz Mensucat ve Konfesiyon Fabrikalar. A.., Istanbul, where I
was allowed to spend some weeks for time studies and research at the production
site and HUGO BOSS AG, Izmir, where I had the chance to spend one week for
research in state of the art production planning techniques at their plant in Izmir. I
would like to thank both companies for the cooperation and support during my
stay.
Special thanks to Mr. C. Enginar, who supported me during the work on my thesis,
especially when it came to Turkish language skills.

I would appreciate receiving the criticisms, corrections, and frank opinions of my
readers
(Lina.Rambausek@gmx.de).
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Declaration
Herewith I declare that I have completed the present thesis by myself and without
the use of any aids other than those listed. All passages that were taken either
directly or mutatis mutandis from published and non-published sources have been
marked as such. The thesis has not been submitted to a different examination au-
thority in the same or similar form.

Copyright: The author

gives admission to make this Masters thesis available for
consultation and to copy parts of the Masters thesis for personal use. Any other
use falls under the limitations of the copyright, especially with regard to the obliga-
tion of mentioning the source explicitly on quoting the results of this Masters the-
sis.
The use of this paper regarding non-profit matters is without charge, a commercial
use in opposite needs agreement with the author. In addition, the author does not
take any responsibility for the correctness of the information in this paper.

Istanbul, 19
th
August 2008
Place, Date Signature

Author: Lina Rambausek, Email: Lina.Rambausek@gmx.de. Contact also through: Universiteit

Gent / Ghent University, Department of Textiles, Technologiepark-Zwijnaarde 907, 9052 Gent (Zwi-
jnaarde), Belgium

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Summary
The dissertation has been written in the fourth semester of the study program
European Masters in Advanced Textile Engineering, organised by the Associa-
tion of Textile Universities (AUTEX). It will evaluate the use of simulation software
application in garment manufacturing industry with special reference to the use in
production line balancing. The usefulness of simulation software application in the
context of line balancing in garment manufacturing industry is considered. Addi-
tionally, I shall ascertain whether or not this technique might be successfully ap-
plied in garment manufacturing by conducting and observing a range of experi-
ments.
Chapter 1 will give an overview of the topic and establish why using simulation
might be advantageous for textile companies. Further on, chapter 2 will outline the
aims and objectives of this dissertation and the 3
rd
chapter will address methodo-
logical issues.
In addition to simulation aspects, this paper will also examine issues concerning
Lean Manufacturing and the Toyota Production System (TPS). A comparison be-
tween manufacturing concepts is made in chapter 4. Here, the concepts of Pro-
gressive Bundle System (PBS), Modular Manufacturing (MM), Lean Manufacturing
(LM) and Mixed Manufacturing Module Design are discussed. A detailed descrip-
tion of the data base used for the experiments in further sections of this paper fol-
lows in chapter 5. The data collection was undertaken on the shop floor of a ladies
jacket production line in Istanbul. The layout and the workflow of this particular line
was analysed and time studies are made.
Line balancing techniques are the topic of chapter 6. Here, information from state
of the art techniques in use is shown. How the production lines at the company
Hugo Boss in Izmir are balanced and general techniques for line balancing are
described in detail. Chapter 7 gives a presentation of the software Enterprise Dy-
namics which is used for the construction of the simulation model in chapter 8.
The chapter introduces us to current application fields of the software. The con-
struction method of the simulation model is explained in chapter 8. In addition to
the setup process, this part deals with aspects of LM and degree of simplification
regarding the simulation model.
The experiments and its results are described closer in chapter 9. Six different
experiments with each a different line balancing strategy are conducted. The sec-
tions 9.6 and 9.8 summarize the result of the experiments and the outcomes of the
experiments are compared.

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The conclusion in chapter 10 contains a SWOT analysis which describes
strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the application of simulation
software in garment production and line balancing. Also future perspectives of the
application are discussed.

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1 Introduction
Worldwide competition as part of the process of globalisation challenges garment
manufacturers in Europe. The considerable pressure to outsource production be-
yond the boarders of Europe increased with time. To remain competitive, hence to
sustain the option to produce in the western world, companies have to find their
competitive advantages in production processes.
2

The potential yield of a strategic business unit, consequently, can be determined
by the difference between price and unit costs which are based on value-adding
and non-value-adding activities. Therefore the value of the product is defined by all
activities of the business unit.
This paper focuses on the ratio between value-adding and non-value-adding ac-
tivities. Those either accomplish to cost advantage by influencing the situation of
costs of the business unit, or provide a basis for achievement in differentiation to
the competitor.
According to Kutz, Zerres and Zerres, value-adding activities are those activities,
which generate added value for the final customer and for which the customer is
willing to pay. Also, value-adding activities become comparative advantages in
competition in terms of differentiation on the basis of costs
3

Customers are not longer willing to pay for non-value-adding production proc-
esses. Higher standards in quality and at the same time faster supply of products
are demanded.
In modern markets, customers demand:
4

The right product and its variations
Fashion trends are changing rapidly. The producer has to deal with a high vari-
ability in quantity, that means decreasing contract size, as well as with high
model diversity.
the best quality
As high-quality level and the best service are demanded, a need for more con-
trol emerged.
at the time needed
The manufacturer should be able to handle quick delivery, thus ensures a short
throughput-time at high productivity rates.
at a reasonable price.
www.congnhemay.net 2
The customer does not want to pay for things which do not add value to the
product, e.g. unnecessary transports.

To not reduce costs of production on account of the quality, to meet the pressure
on productivity and the shifted customer demands, companies need to find ways
to increase efficiency in production by other means. Time is a critical factor con-
cerning labour-intensive manufacturing, as in garment production.
5
So, how to
save money and time in the production procedure is a key issue which is tackled
by various companies in a number of ways. Some focus on radically changing the
production system to cut costs, others on increasing productivity and enhancing
quality, hence improving the existing system.
6

Clothing and textile production can be situated in less-developed countries. La-
bour-intensive but low-tech production methods contribute to the advantage in
production costs. In comparison, the necessity to decrease labour costs with high-
tech like information technologies and automation becomes more apparent in de-
veloped countries.
7

As mentioned, low labour costs, are besides other cost factors, a major reason
why companies outsource production beyond the boarders of Europe. Even if high
labour costs in Europe are reasonable, to produce in a European country is an
expensive business. A list of gross minimum wage rates of countries textiles are
also produced in is shown in Appendix A.
Nevertheless, staying competitive, when producing garments in Europe, is of great
importance. Therefore the aim is to reduce the costs of labour per produced piece.
From history, it can be recognized that some companies tried to decrease these
costs by reducing the number of employees but this is, on the long run, the wrong
approach to the problem. The past of developed countries as well as todays de-
velopment in China show that as manufacturing productivity accelerates, indus-
tries loose jobs in manufacturing. The rise in productivity comes from improved
technologies and reallocation of resources.
8
Nowadays rationalising the labour
force without labour replacement by technology attracts more and more notice
The better method to improve productivity is to use the available assets and work-
force more efficiently. Increasing productivity, is the new mantra and no stone is
left unturned to improve processes in production and other business units.
The term productivity has a number of different definitions. In industry, it is most
commonly used with labour efficiency. In general productivity is the ratio of output
and input.
input
output
ty Productivi =

Equation 1-1 Productivity
9

Regarding labour, productivity may be defined as output per unit of time or output
per labour hour; it directly contributes to the productivity of the firm as the author
Mosser Barnes (1980) indicates.
10

time
output
ty productivi Labour =
Equation 1-2 Labour productivity
11

Of course besides effectiveness of labour, other factors like the efficient operation
of machines, equipment, facilities and the economical use of materials affect pro-
ductivity of the company and finally the production costs of the product.
As noted above, besides increasing labour productivity, also technological innova-
tion can be considered to improve overall productivity. High tech-machines, auto-
mated production, or transport systems can be introduced into the production
process. Introduction of high-tech machinery costs time and is a capital invest-
ment, which in many cases the companies can ill afford.
The key is to start simple and investigate first the own production processes, to
finally find the scope where easy and quick changes can save money, time or in-
crease quality. Many simple changes can sometimes exceed the success of a sin-
gle complex one. This issue directs us to the practices of the car manufacture
Toyota and its production system TPS. It should be mentioned that Toyota derived
from a weaving company, hence the textile sector. One important issue in the con-
text of the TPS is the avoidance of waste in all production process steps. The TPS
is a well-known and highly successive production system; it should be possible to
apply the ideas within the system in garment and textile industry also. To improve
garment production the companies should investigate manufacturing processes
from other fields and apply best practices from other industries, like car manufac-
turing.
Another approach to increase productivity is line balancing. Line balancing loss is
waiting time, which is caused by unbalanced or inadequate balanced production
line, expressed in no. of operators. That means, periods when the operator waits
for further work which is coming from workstations in the production line which
works in sequential steps. If the line is balanced well, the line balancing loss
should be at a minimum. Perfectly balanced lines with a line balancing loss of zero
operators are unusual. The calculation of Takt time helps the planner to schedule
the work stations.
units
Time
Time Takt =
Equation 1-3 Takt time
12

If all workstations work with the same Takt time and there are no interruptions in
production, then exactly one output unit is produced in the rhythm of Takt time.
For example, a company should produce 500 units per shift of 8 hours.
unit
minutes 0,96

units 500
minutes 480
time Takt = =
The Takt time is 0.96 minutes. Every 0.96 minutes one output unit has to be pro-
duced to meet production schedule.

To find the optimum or an appropriate line balancing loss is certainly an issue
companies are focussing on. Planning tools in production line balancing attract
notice of an increasing number of companies. To keep the production labour costs
per produced piece as low as possible, companies try to increase efficiency in
workers assignment.
From my experience and knowledge that I gained during my studies, it appears to
be likely that:
If labour can be planned efficiently, production of garments is likely to be cost
effective even in countries with high labour costs.
Sewing is a labour intensive process hence reducing labour costs on the ba-
sis of carefully planning is likely to result in competitive advantage.
So far, companies in the textile sector do not use simulation as a tool for im-
proving their production.
Garment production is one of the industrial branches, which does not seem to
attach a great deal of weight to production planning tools or other methods of
industrial engineering to increase productivity.
In production, trial and error methods are still common which seems to lessen
the degree of productivity which might be possible to achieve.
Companies remaining focussed on experience based knowledge which is
hard to transfer to other employees for example in if employees need to be
replaced.
More or less, still the system based on experience based knowledge works. In
case experience values get lost or cant be developed further, production proc-
esses in real life situations could be complicated to deal with. In the textile sector
as in other producing industries, production planning tools are necessary to main-
tain and to improve productivity which arguably is a competitive advantage.
In other manufacturing industries, simulation of production processes is well estab-
lished. Simulation is recognized as a powerful problem-solving tool which has its
roots in hard systems engineering like car manufacturing. In garment and clothing
manufacturing the application needs to be more extensive as modelling human
systems is more demanding and complex. Consequently a range of simplifications
have to be made to achieve a decrease in the complexity of human behaviour.
13

The rationale for this paper lies in the observations and experiences within gar-
ment manufacturing processes cited above.
Chapter 2 and 3 describe the objectives of this thesis as well as show the method
completed in this thesis. A literature review regarding manufacturing concept is
given in chapter 4. The data base for construction the simulation in further chap-
ters is discussed in chapter 5. Chapter 6 deals with the literature review concern-
ing line balancing techniques. The software used for the experiments in chapter 9
is described in chapter 7. Chapter 8 contains a case study which is built upon data
gained during the research phase in this project. The content of this paper deals
with the topic production process, touches the matter of line balancing and the
theme simulation. Results of the empirical part of this work will be given in chapter
9. An overall evaluation of the application in line balancing in garment manufactur-
ing will be discussed in chapter 10.

www.congnhemay.net
2 Objectives
Aim of this dissertation is to evaluate the use of simulation software in the process
of line balancing in garment manufacturing. The information is intended to give
users or future users of simulation software an overview of strengths and weak-
nesses in this special case of application.
Furthermore, this aims to make suggestions concerning possible problem resolu-
tions during the first use of simulation software in line balancing. The experimental
approach in chapter 9, deals with several line balancing strategies.
The main subject of this dissertation focuses on line balancing in the context of
Lean Manufacturing, avoidance of non-adding value activities and constrains in
the usage of simulation software in line balancing in garment production.
Finally this paper is using SWOT analysis for the application of simulation software
in garment manufacturing in chapter 10. Advantages and Disadvantages of the
application of simulation software in production line balancing will be addressed.
Users of the information offered in this thesis should be aware that circumstances
of different production sites, of course, change the requirements of the application
of the software. The improvements within the experiments discussed are not the
only solutions valid for all production environments. Analysing a production proc-
ess and building a simulation model go hand-in-hand with close investigation of
the conditions at the manufacturing site. Also, in order to avoid exceeding the
scope of this dissertation, the model in this paper is based on a number of simplifi-
cations, which will be explored later on. The dissertation is written within confines
of the subject of textile technology and therefore is not intended to challenge mat-
ters of industrial engineering and programming.
www.congnhemay.net
3 Approach
The aim of this paper is to evaluate application of simulation software when com-
bined with the techniques of production line balancing. The SWOT analysis is
based on data collection on the production floor and through experimentation with
the simulation model derived from the data. Opportunities and constraints of the
use of simulation software in the context of line balancing are highlighted. Also
problems in setting up simulation models in the mentioned context are presented.
Following aspects will be investigated during the use of the simulation model.
output units and productivity,
status of the operator e.g. busy or idle,
number of units in inventory,
utility values of the single operations.
Of course, issues such as bottlenecks will be detected and analysed
The research plan is as follows:
1. Literature review and on-site research
2. Time studies
3. Work flow analysis
4. Simulation model set up
5. Simulation experiments with various techniques of line balancing
6. Evaluation of the usage of simulation software for the application in produc-
tion line balancing

The actual procedural method to the final results in chapter 10, is shown in Fig.
3-1

Fig. 3-1 Procedural method
14

www.congnhemay.net
4 The Manufacturing Concepts
Due to the tremendous increase in speed of fashion changes during the last dec-
ades, garment production is challenged by many influencing factors. Besides
variations in product style, in material and accessories, variations in order quanti-
ties and quality aspects; the time to respond to the market can be the decisive fac-
tor to the success as garment manufacturer in Europe. Apparel manufacturers
have to experiment with new manufacturing concepts to meet the demand of the
market and hence, staying competitive. Three important manufacturing methods
are explained in the following sections. They are developed consecutively in time
and always build upon the previous manufacturing system. According to this ap-
proach, the mentioned advantages and disadvantages always refer to the previous
concept.
4.1 Progressive Bundle System (PBS)
15

4.1.1 Concept
Each operator is assigned to only one machine, performing a single operation re-
petitively. Through the production line, the parts are passed on in bundles of for
example 25 pieces per bundle.
4.1.2 Advantages of PBS
If rework needs to be done the responsibilities are clear. Each worker is re-
sponsible for the operation fulfilled.
The operators work is easy controllable in means of payment terms e.g.
piece rate.
Large order quantities or mass production is realizable with this system.
4.1.3 Disadvantages of PBS
The higher the number of pieces within the bundle the higher is the value of
WIP, the longer is the throughput time with regard to the time the products
wait in the inventory section.
Quality inspections are generally made at the end of the line. At this point of
the line, the repair can get more complex due to the whole garment needs
to be unpicked to rectify a fault made early in the production stage. Hence,
more time is needed for rework.
Payment on production or piece rate means that intensive quality control is
necessary. The worker is incentives to speed up the production to generate
a higher output, on account of the product quality.
The level of flexibility is low. It is not recommended producing small quanti-
ties.
Generally large stock between the stations is built up. The operational time
at different workstation varies; so either inventory is kept or operators might
need to wait for pieces from previous slower work steps due to the bundle
system.
4.2 Modular Manufacturing (MM)
MM is one of the most popular concepts in garment production.
The MM concept
is similar to the Toyota Sewn System Manufacturing Module Design (TSS) of To-
yoda, today car manufacturer Toyota.
4.2.1 Concept
16

All operators are cross-trained and handle several machines. The operator works
in a predetermined section or zones of the production line, for example in a cell-
like arrangement. The bundle size is one. The worker is standing during fulfilling
his task. Due to the fact that in garment manufacturing most of the operations are
fulfilled seated, this concept cannot be transferred one-to-one to apparel produc-
tion systems.
The movement rules of the workers are as follows:
Operator A works in a U-shaped manufacturing cell. He moves with the
product counter clock-wise and along with the production flow.
Operator A moves with the product within his cell as long as he does not
reach the successive operator. If operator A meets the operator B, B is tak-
ing over the product moving with it in production flow direction.
Operator A, now without a product to work-on, moves against the produc-
tion flow in clockwise direction, till he reaches another product. This product
can be either waiting in a storage area or another operator (C) is working-
on it.

The American Apparel manufacturing Association (AAMA) has defined modular manufacturing as:
a contained, manageable work unit of 5-17 people performing a measurable task. The operators
are interchangeable among tasks within the group to the extent practical, and incentive compen-
sation is based on the teams output of first quality products. (Gilbert 1989)
Operator A interrupts operator C and takes over the product at the work-
station and again moves with it to the succeeding work step in production
flow direction.
The movement is continued according to the rules described.
Other worker movement rules are based on current WIP status in the production,
on push-and-pull aspects or the rabbit chase method. In this context the regula-
tions mentioned will not be explained more detailed.

4.2.2 Advantages of MM
The operator is involved in the production of complete garments. The rela-
tion between operator and product is emphasized; therefore the quality of
each single product attracts more attention of the operator then in PBS. In
PBS the operator fulfils only a single operation in the production line.
Variations in the working process enrich the job of the operator. The opera-
tors are cross-trained and perform several sewing tasks.
Quality inspection and rework can be assigned to a group of operators. For
example to a group which works in the same cell, team work is empha-
sized; quality defects can be recognized earlier.
The interface with the management can be intensified through e.g. group
meetings. Time for supervising and inspections can be reduced if done on a
team basis.
Concerning payment terms, fixed salaries in combination with production
bonuses can keep quality and production rates stable.
Throughput time and WIP are reduced which consequently reduces costs in
production.
17

Through the bundle size of one piece, time for handing is reduced signifi-
cantly.
Time the operator normally spends for waiting is decreased. The worker
can move against the direction of production flow to find parts to work on,
an increase in plant and worker productivity can be achieved.

Further details on operator movement with WIP, Rabbit chase and Push/Pull methods can be
found in A generic simulator for modeling manufacturing modules, B.J. Schroer, P.A. Farrigton,
J.J.Swain, D.R. Utley, Proceedings of the 1996 winter Simulation Conference, p. 1156 - 1158
4.2.3 Disadvantages of MM
When an operator reaches another and takes over an unfinished product
the work process is interrupted this can affect quality negatively.
The payment terms mentioned earlier could cause absenteeism of opera-
tors. According to that the turnover rate per employee can shrink. The op-
erators could also lose sight of the zero-defect strategy if the fixed wage
satisfies the operators needs.
Ergonomic aspects are neglected; the workplaces within one zone should fit
to all operators within the area which is practically impossible. The organi-
sation at the workstation can be deficient. Also the conditions at the work-
place can be inadequate, because responsibilities for maintenance of ma-
chines are not clearly assigned to the operators.
Due to increased speed in production the number of defects could rise.
Movement rules and time pressure; could cause the operator to feel pres-
surised; hence the operator is exposed to increased stress levels. The
products quality could fall.
To prevent bottlenecks an increased number of machinery is needed. Thus,
the floor space has to be enlarged, too.
The training of the operators is more time intensive using MM in compari-
son with PBS, especially when it comes to new operators. All operators of a
cell team need to be able to fulfil all operations within the cell.
When making changes in the production line, considerable supervisory
planning is needed.
4.3 Lean Manufacturing (LM)
18,19

Lean manufacturing was introduced to reduce the time to the market even more.
LM derived from TPS (Toyota Production System) which was developed by To-
yoda Motor Car Company, today known as Toyota Motor Corporation.
Definition:
a manufacturing system with extraordinary capability to meet the rapidly changing
needs of the market place; a system that can shift rapidly among product model or
between product lines, ideally in real-time response to customers demands
(Youssef, 1994)
20

Here, the concept is explained in key words, further details on the most important
aspects will be following in successive chapters.

4.3.1 Concept
One-piece flow with pull system,
instead of batch production with
push system.
No inventory, KanBan (Inven-
tory control via card system), to
synchronize production to the
market demand
Value-added ratio
Recognition and elimination of
waste
No over-processing means no
unnecessary work
Handling and transport reduc-
tion
Single minute exchange of die
(SMED)
Standard work
Takt time
Line optimization, Line balanc-
ing to prevent waiting operators
and overproduction
Productivity and Total productiv-
ity maintenance (TPM)
Poka Yoke (Mistake proofing),
Zero defect strategy
Application of Kaizen, (con-
tinuous improvement) and
Total Quality Management
(TQM)
Flow velocity
Machine reliability
Overall equipment effective-
ness (OEE)
Right-sized equipment
Jidoka (autonomation = Em-
powerment of workers),
Teamwork
Value stream mapping, visual
management
Facility and Layout, prevent
interruptions in production
stream
Customer driven, value
should be rethought from the
view point of the ultimate cus-
tomer.
Perfection is focused not
benchmarking with the com-
petitors

4.3.1.1 Pull system
The pull system describes the relationship between single workstations in the pro-
duction line. Successive workstations are treated like customers with demands.
Only if the consecutive station demands a part from the previous station for further
processing, the part is delivered. If there is no demand, the workstation stops pro-
duction. Hence, the building of stocks within the production line is prevented and
waiting time is reduced to a minimum. The procedure described is similar to the
Kanban system in the TPS.
4.3.1.2 One-piece flow
Each operator works only on one piece, bundles do not exist. Handling time and
WIP are reduces, plus costly stocks are not build up.
4.3.1.3 Value-added ratio
Comparing value adding and non-value-adding operations in production proc-
esses, the value-added ratio can be determined. The more value adding and the
less non-value adding activities exist, the lower is the ratio, the better is the pro-
ductivity per operator.
Through Value-Stream-Mapping the value-adding activities can be easily detected.
By subtracting the time value of those from lead time in production, the time which
is spend on non-value-adding activities can be calculated.
21

activities adding value - non activities adding value - time Lead =
Equation 4-1 Lead time
22

activities adding - value
activities adding value - non
ratio - added - value =
Equation 4-2 Value added ratio
23

Example:
The value-added ratio of a production process is 32/1. That means that each min-
ute, value is added to the product, 32 minutes of non-value-added activities are
accumulated.
Calculation: Lead time = 6480 minutes,
Value-added activities = 195 minutes
These values result in 6285 minutes of non-value-added activities.
The value added ratio is 32/1.
From this ratio it can be easily recognized that the production consists of 3,01%
value-adding and 96,99% non-value-adding activities.
The following example shall show the effect of a reduction in the value of non-
value-added activities. In this case the ratio between value-added and non-value-
added is 19/1. The non-value-adding activities sum up to 95% in comparison to
5% value-adding activities. See figure Fig. 4-1
Value-added vs. Non-value-added activities
5%
95%
Value-added activities
Non-value-added activities

Fig. 4-1 Value added vs. Non-value-added activities
24

The effects on lead time after reducing the non-value-added activities by 50% are
visualized in Fig. 4-2. As a result, the percentage of value adding activities would
increase; the lead time would be about 48% shorter.

Potential effect on Lead Time after reducting non-
value-adding activities by 50 %
5%
47%
48%
Value-added activities
Non-value-added activities
Lead Time Improvement

Fig. 4-2 Potential effect on Lead time after reducing non-value-added activities by 50%
25

4.3.1.4 Handling reduction
Often, handling and transport of material are non-value-adding activities. By reduc-
ing the handling and transport time to a minimum, the productivity per operator
and so the value-added ratio can be improved significantly. A reduction in trans-
port time can be easily achieved through clever layout planning.
4.3.1.5 Single minute exchange of die (SMED)
Another important factor for keeping flexibility in production and reducing handling
time is the time for setting up machines. Small order sizes and numerous varia-
tions in styles cause the operator to set up a machine several times a day. To
keep the time for the setup operation a non-value-adding activity - at a minimum,
SMED systems have to be developed.
4.3.1.6 Standard work
Through applying standard work in the production line, the quality of the product
and speed within the production line can be increased. The speed rises because
the optimal and fastest method to operate is determined by e.g. method studies.
Also the quality is improved due to that all operator use the same method. Both,
quality and speed can be kept more constant during the production; planning and
controlling the line are alleviated. Defects and rework can be avoided.
4.3.1.7 Takt time
The calculation of Takt time is based on the target production quantity per day and
on the standard time per operation.
[ ]
units
min time
Time Takt =
Equation 4-3 Takt time
26

An example:
The output volume per day is 117; the shift has a duration of 9 hours. Therefore
the production is 13 units per hour; accordingly Takt time is 4.6 minutes. That
means every 4.6 minutes one unit needs to be produced. The Takt time needs to
be adapted to the output targets per time. If the cycle times of the operations are
equal Takt time, the production runs smoothly, if not the line needs to be balanced.
Line balancing is explained explicit in chapter 6.
4.3.1.8 Line balancing
Line balancing is a tool for planning the amount of personnel needed for a certain
production quantity. The various methods for planning are explained in Chapter 6.
4.3.1.9 Productivity
The price per output unit is amongst other things determined by the productivity.
Particularly, in countries like Europe where high labour costs affect the overall
production costs highly, the productivity of each single operator is significant.
Through good planning and application of high technology equipment productivity
per operator can be improved easily.
4.3.1.10 Flow velocity
The higher the speed within the production line, the shorter is the resulting
throughput time. This causes fast inventory turns; the final turnover is generated
much quicker.
4.3.2 Advantages of LM:
Due to the bundle size of one, the WIP is kept at a minimum. Waiting time
between the workstations is reduced to zero; stocks within the production
line are not built up.
Assuming stock is not kept within the line, the requirements for floor space
is less than in MM. Also to reduce transport time within the production line
the floor size of the layout should be minimized in.
The throughput time is reduced due to a low WIP.
Clear responsibilities ensure enhanced quality of the product. According to
that the operators are dealing only with few different operations, the training
level of each operator is high. The operator can fulfil his task optimally re-
garding pace and quality. Additionally, the regularity in maintenance of the
equipment can be optimized when operators are assigned only to some
machines.
The line can be balanced through the use of Takt time. Each operator is as-
signed to a certain number of operations. When the durations of those op-
erations are summed up, the value should equal the predetermined Takt
time.
For example, the operator is handling 3 operations which have a duration of
1, 0.6 and 0.4 minutes. If the Takt time is 2 minutes this operator is not
causing a bottleneck situation within the process. The sum of the durations
of his operations exceeds the Takt time the operator is too slow, preceding
work stations have to wait. If the operational time under-runs the Takt time,
inventory could be built up, LM prevents inventory so the operator has to be
occupied with another task to keep production flow as smooth as possible.
Through time and motion studies the production can be planned even more
efficiently.
4.3.3 Disadvantages of LM
To meet Takt time specifications, more time for planning and control is
needed. Sometimes it is necessary to employ specialists to fulfil these
tasks. Also, it takes longer to train operators at several work stations and in
distinct operations.
Once a layout for a production with respect to lean manufacturing aspects
is set up, the structure is more rigid than others. This could cause problems
when it comes to the flexibility of the system. Rapidly changing styles or
small order sizes can affect the efficiency of the layout. For low volume and
prototype production, or one-of-a-kind products, lean manufacturing produc-
tion line setup is not suitable. Best results with the lean manufacturing con-
cept can be achieved in inflexible production processes like routine work.
4.3.4 Toyota Production System
27,28

A main issue in the TPS, besides the approach of LM, is the elimination of Muda,
which translated from Japanese, means waste. In this particular context manufac-
turing Muda is concerned, or better the non-value-adding activities within the pro-
duction process.

There are 7 types of waste:
1. Waste from overproduction
2. Waste from waiting
3. Transportation waste
4. Processing waste (work steps which are not needed necessarily)
5. Inventory waste (also products that no-one wants)
6. Waste of motion, and
7. Waste from product defects (mistakes which require rework)

Waste most often concerns the waste of time in the production process. Time is an
unrecoverable resource, once spend it is not possible to recover it. As with all re-
sources the efficient use of time should be focussed.
In the book Lean Manufacturing for the Small Shop, G. Conner mentions that
companies do not pay much attention to the prevention of waste. He also gives the
reason for this insensitivity in following quotation.
If wasting time would stink as garbage,
people would certainly pay more attention to it.
The guideline to avoidance or reduction of waste concerns: activities, behaviours
and conditions. Some ways to prevent waste are shown in
Table 4-1 Areas in which waste can be avoided
29

Areas in which waste
can be avoided :
A solution concept could be:
Facility layout
Considerable planning of the production line layout mini-
mizes transport ways and floor space.
Excessive set-up time
SMED and quick release tooling can save time in the pro-
duction process. The cycle time can be reduced.
Incapable process
Method and time studies can help to find the optimum
standard methods.
Poor prevention main-
tenance
Assignment of operators to machines set clear responsibili-
ties; hence, prevention maintenance can be accomplished
more regularly. Wasting time through breakdowns of ma-
chines can be avoided.
Uncontrolled work
method
To sustain quality, standards in work methods should be
set up. This could be done for example with Motion Time
Measurement (MTM).
Lack of training
Through regular training quality can be improved and the
defect rate is decreased.
Lack of work place
organisation
Ergonomic and organisational aspects should be ad-
dressed when planning the workplace. For example, the
supply of trimmings should be continuous without waiting.
Lack of supplier qual-
ity & reliability
Evaluation of suppliers should be a continuous process. A
classification of suppliers according to their evaluation can
avoid quality defect or shortages in production material.
Lack of concern (ac-
countability)
The assignment of operators to machines generates a re-
sponsibility for the equipment. Also if operations are clearly
assigned operators are more concerned with the quality of
their work.
Passing of defect parts
Continuous control during the operation can prevent de-
fects. Rework can be minimized.
Lack of communica-
tion
Regular team meetings are a tool to support communica-
tion within the team. Problems can be solved more effi-
ciently through team work.

A way to detect waste within processes is Value Stream Mapping (VSM). VSM is a
visual tool for identifying all activities in planning and production processes. All
business activities are shown in a detailed schema. Through mapping of proc-
esses, value adding or more important non-value-adding processes can be deter-
mined. If the non-value-adding activity is arbitrary it should be eliminated to finally
avoid waste. Fig. 4-3 shows a method to determine action if a non-value adding
activity is detected.

Fig. 4-3 Decision tree for evaluation of processes
30

VSM also offers the user better process control and visibility, with the possibility to
reduce lead times and costs, and to improve skills and technology which are all
linked to the companys competitive advantage.
31
The TPS enabled Toyota to syn-
chronize their production volume with their sales and hence, the demand in the
market.
32

LM derived from the TPS, so many aspects are at least similar and will not be dis-
cussed here in detail.
Is the operation of value for the ultimate customer?
Yes No
Can the operation be eliminated completely?
Yes No
Eliminate process, rear-
range the production proc-
ess.
Is the process (still) improv-
able?
Yes No
Keep
process
as it is.
Change process, improve
the production process.
4.4 Mixed Manufacturing Module Design - Hybrid Version
Of course, it is not always possible to clearly determine the production concept in
use. To meet order specifications and to optimise the production, a combination of
manufacturing concepts might be necessary. Order specifications change in time
and from customer to customer; also, varying order volumes and variations in
product styles are challenges the production line set-up needs to face.
The main reason to develop a hybrid manufacturing concept is the flexibility in
production. More customers with varying specification can be served at once, si-
multaneously or consecutively.
An example:
The combination of LM and MM in one and the same production line can be fruit-
ful. Lean Manufacturing could be applied in the critical path of the production line,
PBS or Modular Manufacturing in the supplying branches of the same. This hybrid
version guarantees the continuous supply of sub-assembled pieces through
MM/PBS and perfectly balanced operations within the critical path according to
LM. The critical path operations determine the throughput or output per day. As
long as these operations are fulfilled at optimum level, the maximum output per
day can be achieved.
To set-up a hybrid version of the manufacturing structure with different single lines,
a possible and common approach is to define the shares of the combination on
basis of the sales volume.
For example:
Special cells: 15% of sales volume prototype production, no concept de-
termined because the line is too flexible
Standard cells: 25% of sales volume e.g. LM
Just-in-time (JIT) Cells: 60% of sales volume e.g. MM or LM
Another possible scenario are the 80/20 rule, 80% of production is adapted to the
bread-and-butter business the rest is adapted to just-in-case scenarios.
33

Other hybrid versions are determined on basis of push- or pull strategy, where
batch and lot size one can vary within the production line. Also the assignment of
workers to single or multiple operations can be an aspect, hybrids are set-up on.
Both, mass production customers, as well as customers for special manufacturing
concerns can be served with hybrid systems. Through the combination of manu-
facturing concepts, the producer is not forced to an either-or decision which im-
proves his competitive ability.
5 ISTCOMP
5.1 Data base
Further analysis is based on data gained in at a production site. Due to reasons of
privacy this company will further be called ISTCOMP. Also time studies were car-
ried out at this company in February and March 2008.

ISTCOMP is situated on the European side of Istanbul close to the airport. Over
1000 employees are working at this production site. Besides the production of fab-
rics, ready-made clothing like suits, jackets and trousers are manufactured, either
for own brands or order-based for various retailer brands.

The production floor consists of four production lines and a prototype production
area. The four lines are divided according to the garment produced in: Mens
jacket, Mens trousers, Ladies jacket, and Ladies skirts and trousers. I had the
chance to analyse and to carry out time studies in the production line for Ladies
jackets.

The line for ladies jackets is divided into four sections:
I. Body
II. Collar & Lining
III. Sleeve
IV. Assembly

In section I-III. the subassembly of different parts of the ladies jackets takes place
simultaneously. In section IV, these parts are combined in the final assembly. Fur-
ther description of mentioned sections will follow in chapter 5.3.
5.2 Product
To analyse the production line of the ladies jacket, a particular jacket model was
chosen. To keep the complexity for simulation as low as possible, the analysis is
based on a simple basic model lady jacket. See (Fig. 5-1).


Fig. 5-1 Ladies jacket basic model
34

For the production of one of the chosen jacket model 85 individual manufacturing
steps are needed. When analysing the line, 96 operators were working in the pro-
duction line production. The analysis only focuses on the manufacturing steps;
final ironing, buttoning of fronts, quality control, and of course packaging and
shipment are not considered.
5.3 Layout
To analyse the production line and to set up a workflow chart, the analysis was
started from scratch. Information was not or insufficiently available, only names of
operations used within the line and old standard times were known. As well, the
list of operations had to be translated from Turkish to English first, so that at least
the name of the operation was clear. Later it was found out that even the men-
tioned list of operations was not updated, so coming across operations which were
changed or even new in this particular list was usual. Of course, the sequence of
operation within the production flow needed to be changed as well.

At first, it was essentially to set up a layout plan to get to know the product better,
to see how the production is running through the line and to check against the list
of operations supplied by ISTCOMP.
As mentioned, starting point was a drawing of the production line from scratch.
This drawing contained ways of transport and at first resulted into a spaghetti dia-
gram which showed all movements of the material. The diagram is shown in Fig.
5-2 and Fig. 5-3.

Remark: Unlike to Fig. 5-1, the model analysed is equipped with one flap pocket on the front sides
instead of a simple welt pocket. In the picture not visible are the three buttons on the backside
of each sleeve. The picture was supplied by ISTCOMP, February 2008.

Fig. 5-2 Drawing of ladies jacket production line (sections I & II)35

Fig. 5-3 Advanced sketch of the production line (all sections)
36

To improve outlook and comprehensibility the drawing was converted into a Micro-
soft Visio file. Measurements are not taken into account. Also only the movement
of the main parts like fabric or lining is analysed; movement of accessories and
trimmings are not examined.

To structure the operations regarding sections and numeration within the produc-
tion line, colours and codes were used. The codes give an insight about the mate-
rial or parts used within the operation and the manufacturing step the material is
involved in. The letters determine the fabric pieces involved in the operation; the
number sequentially determines the step number of the involved pieces.

Example: Collar & Lining, section II:

Table 5-1 Example: Code in section II. Collar & Lining
Step no Code
A= collar piece,
B= lining front body piece,
C= lining back body piece,
D=facing piece
within
the line
within
the sec-
tion
within
the sec-
tion
Operation
41 20 DCBA1 sew lining to collar

An example:
In operation no. 41 of the whole production line, or alternative in operation no. 20
within the section of collar & Lining, the code for the operation is DCBA1. That
means in this operation are 4 parts involved: A, B, C and D. Also this is the first
step (DCBA1) were an additional part is joined. From the list, it is recognizable that
the new part is the collar piece (A). The previous code is DCB1, so there this part
was not involved.


Table 5-2 Example: Code in section II. Collar & Lining
Step no Code
A= collar piece,
C= lining back body piece,
D=facing piece
within
the line
within
the sec-
tion
within
the sec-
tion
Operation
40 19 DBC1 sew facing to lining

The codes make clear at which operations the various parts enter the line and how
many operations are carried till out till the next piece is added.

Fig. 5-4 shows the number of operators and their position in the line. The various
tables are carrying a symbol, which gives a hint about the operation fulfilled at this
work station, e.g. sewing or ironing (see also Fig. 5-5). A list of the machinery in
use is shown in Appendix B.
ISTCOMP 27

Fig. 5-4 Layout ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008
37

ISTCOMP 28
Table 5-3 shows the number of production steps within each line, these steps are
explained more detailed within the following chapters.

Table 5-3 Number of operations per section
Section of production line Single production steps
I. Body
21
II. Collar & Lining
22
III. Sleeve
14
IV. Assembly
28
Overall no. of production steps 85

ISTCOMP 29
5.3.1 Section I & II. in detail
The sections of I. Body and II. Collar & Lining are explained in detail.

Fig. 5-5 Layout ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008 (part1/2)
38

ISTCOMP 30
5.3.2 I. Body - Subassembly
In the section I. Body the parts shown in the figure below are sub-assembled. The
outer shell of the body of the jacket is assembled; means the fabric part of the
garment; collar & lining are produced in section II. simultaneously.
It should be mentioned that some of the operations need to be carried out more
than one time to complete a full ladies jacket.

Fig. 5-6 Area which is worked-on in section I. Body
39

The following tables contain detailed information about each operation within sec-
tion I. Body; numeration, name of operation and a description of it is shown.
Table 5-4 Operations of section I. Body - Subassembly (part 1/4)
Step no. within
the
Code
A=front body piece
B=back body piece
C=pocket
I. Body
line section
within
the
section
Operation Description of operation
1 1 A1 sew darts
take up front piece, position, sew
app. 20 cm, mark dart end, sew
app. 5 cm, take up position, sew
app. 25 cm, take up & release at
trolley
2 2 A2 sew front-side seam
take up other front piece, position
it on front side piece, sew app. 40
cm, take up & release at trolley

ISTCOMP 31
Step
no.
within
the
Code
A=front body piece
B=back body piece
C=pocket
I. Body
line
sec-
tion
within
the
sec-
tion
3 3 A3
press darts & front-side seam,
fuse interlining
take up & position front piece, iron
dart, take up lining material, posi-
tion, fuse, press darts, take up &
release at trolley
4 4 A4
fuse interlining tape to front body
piece
take up two front body pieces, 2x
(position, fusing of interlining, and
press), take up & release at trolley
5 5 A5
fuse interlining tape to front arm
hole of front piece
take up body piece, position, fuse
interlining, take up & release at trol-
ley
6 6 A6
clean armhole at front with knife
machine
take up front part, position, sew
around armhole app. 30 cm, cut at
the same time, take up and release
at trolley
7 7 A7 mark pocket on front piece
take up front piece, position on ta-
ble, take up pocket flap, position on
front piece, mark position, take up &
release at trolley
8 8 B1 sew back centre seam
take up two back pieces, position,
sew app. 60 cm, take up & release
at trolley
9 9 B2 sew back side seam
take up two back pieces, position,
sew app. 60 cm,, take up third
piece, reposition, sew app. 60 cm,
take up & release at trolley
10 10 B3 press back centre & side seam
take up back piece, position, iron,
reposition twice & iron, take up &
release at trolley
11 11 B4
fuse interlining tape to back
armhole & collar
take up back piece, position on iron-
ing table, take up interlining
tape,3x(position & fuse - at arm-
holes & collar), take up and release
at trolley

ISTCOMP 32
Step
no.
within
the
Code
A=front body piece
B=back body piece
C=pocket
I. Body
line
sec-
tion
within
the
sec-
tion
12 12 C1-2
sew & trim pocket flap with
automate
Automate: take up & position two
pocket pieces single by single in the
template (loading), position this
marker in automate, process time,
13 13 C3 turn pocket flap take piece, turn & release at trolley
14 14 C4 press pocket flap
take up piece & position on ironing
table, press, turn around, press
again, take up & release on trolley
15 15 CA1
sew welt pocket on front body
piece
take up front piece & position in
automate, take up and position two
pocket parts, take up pocket flap &
position in automate, process time,
16 16 CA2 attach pocket bag & close bag
take up front piece, complex sewing
operation, includes attaching the
pocket bag, closing it & finish the
pocket, take up & release at trolley
17 17 CA3
press pocket front & sort front
sides in pairs
take up and position front piece on
ironing table, press pocket flap from
both sides, take up & release at
trolley
18 18 CBA1
insert shoulder seams & side
seams
take up back & two front piece, sew
side seam app. 60 cm, sew twice
the shoulder seam each app. 15
cm, sew other side seam, take up &
release at trolley
19 19 CBA2 press shoulder seams
take up & position on ironing table,
press both shoulder seams open,

ISTCOMP 33
Step
no.
within
the
Code
A=front body piece
B=back body piece
C=pocket
I. Body
line
sec-
tion
within
the
sec-
tion
20 20 CBA3 press side seams
press both side seams open, take
up & release at trolley
21 21 CBA4 fold hem & press
fold & press hem app. 100 cm,
check, take up & release at trolley
STORAGE BODY

ISTCOMP 34
5.3.3 II. Collar and Lining Subassembly
In this section, the inner part of the jacket is assembled; the collar and the lining
are joined to the body part in section IV, later in the manufacturing process. The
areas of the jacket, it is worked on in this section are marked in Fig. 5-7.

Fig. 5-7 Parts which are worked on in section II.C&L
40

Again, detailed information about each operation within section II. Collar & Lining;
numeration, name of operation and a description of it is shown in the following ta-
bles.
Table 5-8 Operations of section II. Collar and Lining - Subassembly (part 1/4)
Step no. within the Code
A= collar piece,
C= lining back body piece
D=facing piece
II. Collar & Lining
line section
within
the sec-
tion
22 1 A1 sew collar center
take up two pieces, position &
sew app. 5-10 cm, take up &
release at trolley
A2
distribute collars on ironing
table
take up batch of collars, dis-
tribute a certain number of
those on the ironing table,
release rest of batch on the
table
23 2
A3 press collar centre seam
take up iron, iron all collar cen-
tres distributed before, release
the iron at it's origin

ISTCOMP 35
A= collar piece,
D=facing piece
II. Collar & Lining
Line section
within
the sec-
tion
A4 Fuse interlining
take up interlining pieces (cut
before), distribute four on each
collar, release left-over pieces
at the table, iron the interlining,
release iron at its origin
24 3 A5 mark collar
take up template & pen, posi-
tion and mark twice per collar
piece, release pen & tablet on
table
25 4 A6 collect collars
take up pieces one by one,
release as a staple at the table
26

5 A7 sew comma seam
take up two pieces, position &
sew app. 25 cm, take up &
release at trolley
27 6 A8 Sew/topstich comma seam
take up piece, position and
topstitch app.25 cm, take up &
release at trolley
28 7 A9 sew front & back collar (join)
take up two pieces, position,
sew app. 35 cm (around cor-
ners), take up & release at
trolley
29 8 A10
regulate edges (cutting) before
turning collar
take up piece, position scissor,
cut according to requirements
the edges & sides of this piece
with repositioning, release at
trolley
30 9 A11
press collar edge & side seam
of collar & turn
take up one piece, position on
ironing device, press collar
edges and sides, take up col-
lar, turn & release at trolley
31 10 A12 press collar
ironing table, press one side,
turn around, press other side,

ISTCOMP 36
A= collar piece,
B= lining front body piece
D=facing piece
II. Collar & Lining
line section
within
the sec-
tion
32 11 A13 mark collar & regulation
take up collar, mark with tablet,
33 12 A14
regulate (cutting) of collar side
& edge
take up collar, cut according to
marks, check, cut again if nec-
essary, release at staple
34 13 B1 sew front-side seam
release at trolley
35 14 C1 sew back centre seam
release at trolley
36 15 C2 sew back side seam
sew app. 60 cm, take up an-
other pieces, position, sew
app. 60 cm, take up & release
at trolley
37 16 CB1
sew side seam (material com-
position label included)
sew app. 40 cm, position com-
position label, sew app. 20 cm,
38 17 D1 sew facing (preparation)
take up two parts, position,
sew app. 10 cm, take up a third
part, position, sew app. 10 cm,
39 18 D2 sew brand label on facing
take up complete facing, posi-
tion label on it, sew around
label (app. 10 cm), take up &
release at trolley
40 19 DBC1 sew facing to lining
take up facing & lining, posi-
tion, sew app. 140 cm, take up
& release at trolley
41 20 DCBA1 sew lining to collar
take up collar & lining, position,
release at trolley

ISTCOMP 37
A= collar piece,
B= lining front body piece
D=facing piece
II. Collar & Lining
line section
within
the sec-
tion
42 21 DCBA2 iron full body
take up C&L piece, position,
remove sticker on whole gar-
ment, repeated positioning &
ironing, take up & release at
trolley
43 22 DCBA3 fuse strobel interlining
take up lining piece, position &
sew app. 70 cm, reposition,
release at trolley
STORAGE Collar & Lining

ISTCOMP 38
5.3.4 Section III.& IV in detail
In this chapter the sections III. Sleeve subassembly and IV final assembly are ex-
plained in detail.

Fig. 5-8 Layout Ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008 (part2/2)
41

ISTCOMP 39
5.3.5 III. Sleeve Subassembly
As seen in Fig. 5-9, in section III. the subassembly of the sleeve takes place. Fur-
ther on in the production process, in section IV it will be joined to Body, Collar &
Lining.
..
Fig. 5-9 Parts which are sub-assembled in section III
42

The following table gives detailed information about each operation within section
III. Sleeve; numeration, name of operation and a description is shown.
Table 5-12 Operations section III. Sleeve Subassembly (part 1/2
Step no. within
the
Code
A= sleeve lining
B= sleeve fabric
III. Sleeve
line section
within
the
section
44 1 A1 sew sleeve lining
take up two different pieces,
position, sew app. 45 cm, posi-
tion, sew two times app. 15 cm.
Take up & release at trolley
45 2 A2 press lining
take up, position, iron app. 45
cm, fold hem, iron app. 25 cm,
46 3 B1 insert buttonholes in fabric
take up, position, process time
(7 hsec.), take up & release at
trolley
47 4 B2 sew elbow stitch
take up of two pieces, position,
sew app. 45 cm, take up & re-
lease at trolley
48 5 B3 mark & sew sleeve miter
take up, position, sew, turn first
corner , position, sew & turn
second corner, take up & re-
lease at trolley

ISTCOMP 40
Table 5-13 Operations section III. Sleeve Subassembly (part 2/2)
Step no. within
the
Code
A= sleeve lining
B= sleeve fabric
III. Sleeve
line section
within
the
section
49 6 B4
press sleeve miter & press el-
bow stitch
(stickers are removed in ad-
vance) take up, position, iron
app. 45 cm, sometimes corner
shaping with device, take up &
release at trolley
50 7 B5 Corner letter stitch
Take up, position, sew 2-3 cm,
reposition, sew 2-3 cm, take up
and release at trolley
51 8 B6 press vent / cuff
take up, position, iron cuff, take
52 9 B7 close vent
take up, position, sew app. 3
cm, take up and release at trol-
ley
53 10 B8 attach buttons
take-up sleeve, position in
automate, 3 buttons filling in
automate plus process time
(single by single), take up &
release at trolley
54 11 B9 close sleeve
take up one piece, position, sew
app. 45 cm, pick up & release
at trolley
55 12 BA1 insert sleeve lining to sleeve
sew app. 25 cm. (add fusing)
Take up & release at trolley
56 13 BA2
fix lining to sleeve (to prevent
slippage)
take up one piece, handling, 4
times: position & sew app. 2 cm,
57 14 BA3
turn back sleeve & match &
press cuff
take up piece, turn outside-
inside, position, press once,
STORAGE Sleeve
ISTCOMP 41
5.3.6 IV Final Assembly
In the final section IV Final Assembly, all preassembled parts are joined together.
First Body and Collar & Lining are joined then further on the sleeves are added.
Finally all superfluous threads are removed and the garment is stored and trans-
ported further to a quality control section. The picture below shows which parts are
involved in the assembly process.

Fig. 5-10 Parts which are assembled in section IV:
43

The following tables give a detailed description of the operations, codes and nu-
meration of the work steps within section IV. Assembly.
Table 5-14 Operations of section IV Final Assembly (part 1/4)
A= all three components of
subassemblies
B= Sleeve head
IV. Assembly
line section
within
the sec-
tion
operation description of operation
58 1 A1
mark collar, mark hem edge &
match
take up & position one body
pieces, mark piece on two
sides, take up right size of
interlining, take up both
pieces & release at trolley
59 2 A2 sew corners at collar
sew app. 10cm, at each cor-
ner of the collar, take up &
release at trolley
60 3 A3 join collar to body (closing)
take up piece, position & sew
at trolley
ISTCOMP 42
subassemblies
B= Sleeve head
IV. Assembly
line section
within
the sec-
tion
61 4 A4 press collar seam
take up piece & position on
ironing table, press seams,
62 5 A5 sew facing to body
take up, position, sew app. 60
cm repositioning, sew app. 60
cm, take up & release at trol-
ley
63 6 A6 press seam at facing
ironing table, iron app. 60 cm,
reposition, iron app. 60 cm,
64 7 A7
regulation of collar & hem
edge
take up, cut corner & hem
edges (4 positions per piece),
release at trolley
65 8 A8 remove stickers
take up piece, remove all
stickers, take up stapler, fix
last sticker at collar, release
stapler on table, take up &
release piece at trolley
66 9 A9 close hem & fix
take up one part, position,
sew app. 100 cm at hem,
repositioning & sew app.2 cm
to fix the hem, take up & re-
lease at trolley
67 10 A10 turn body
take up one piece, turn in-
side-out, release at trolley
68 11 A11 iron front facing (upper part)
take up one piece, position,
iron front upper part on both
sides, take up & release at
trolley
69 12 A12 iron front facing (lower part)
take up one piece, position,
iron front lower part on both
sides, take up & release at
trolley
70 13 A13 match arms & body
includes sorting right size
sleeves to the body piece
(very flexible in time)
ISTCOMP 43
subassemblies
B= Sleeve head
IV. Assembly
line section
within
the sec-
tion
71 14 A14 insert sleeves to body
take up & position body and
one sleeve, sew app. 30 cm,
take up the second sleeve,
position, sew app. 30 cm,
72 15 A15 iron - shape arms
take up & position garment on
ironing table, iron the armhole
seams (shaping), take up &
release at trolley
73 16 A16 mark & iron shoulder seam
take up & position, mark &
iron shoulder seams, take up
74 17 B1 preparation of sleeve head
sew app. 7 cm, take up third
piece, position, sew app. 7
ley
75 18 BA1 insert sleeve head
pieces, position, sew app. 25
ley
76 19 BA2 insert shoulder pad
pieces, position, sew app. 10
ley
77 20 BA3 fix sleeve pad & turn
take up garment piece, posi-
tion, sew app. 3 cm, reposi-
tion, sew app. 3 cm, take up
78 21 BA4 insert armhole head & fix
take up piece, position, sew
app. 40 cm, , reposition, sew
app. 40 cm, reposition, sew
app. 2 cm to fix, reposition,
sew app. 2 cm to fix, take up

ISTCOMP 44
subassemblies
B= Sleeve head
IV. Assembly
line section
within
the sec-
tion
79 22 BA5
fixate lining at bottom of
sleeve
take up piece, position, sew
app. 3 cm, reposition, sew
at trolley
80 23 BA6 turn back body
take up piece, turn back body
completely through sleeve,
release at trolley
81 24 BA7 close sleeve
take up, position, sew app 25
cm to close the sleeve, take
82 25 BA8 mark button holes at front
take up garment, position,
take up pen & template, mark
two button holes positions,
83 26 BA9 insert button holes at front
take up garment, position in
automate, process time, re-
positioning, process time,
84 27 BA10 bartack button holes at front
take up garment, position in
automate, process time, re-
positioning, process time,
85 28 BA11 clean threads & turn sleeve
take up, clean threads, (in-
tensive handling), release at
trolley
STORAGE GARMENT

ISTCOMP 45
5.3.7 Workforce
To gain more detailed information about the workforce available at ISTCOMP a
questionnaire was filled out by the supervisors of each section.

Table 5-18 Number of workers per section
No. of operators
Section of production
line
Male Female Overall
I. Body
13 14 27
II. Collar & Lining
5 14 19
III. Sleeve
8 6 14
IV. Assembly
14 22 36
Overall no. of workers 40 56 96

It can be seen from Table 5-18 that the operations in section IV, the final assem-
bly, are most labour intensive. Also it is visible that more female operators are em-
ployed in this manufacturing line than male. From my experience at the production
site, operations were not separated according to their hardness. For operations
like ironing, a high level of muscular strength is necessary and the temperature
conditions are unpleasant; in former times these operations were exclusively done
by men. At ISTCOMP also women were fulfilling this task. Of course the opera-
tions were improved in time so that they are not as hard to fulfil as in former times.
Fig. 5-11 and Fig. 5-12 show the overall number of operators according to the
gender in absolute values and in percentage.

ISTCOMP 46
Number of workers I
Women; 56,00
Men; 40
0,00
20,00
40,00
60,00
80,00
100,00
120,00
Women Men

Fig. 5-11 Number of workers I
44

Number of workers II
41,67%
58,33%
Men Women

Fig. 5-12 Number. of workers II
45

Another aspect in the questionnaire filled out by the supervisors was the age of the
operators within the line. From Fig. 5-13 it can be seen that the average age is 34
years. The operators have an average experience in their job of 6 years which is
shown in Fig. 5-14.
ISTCOMP 47
Average age of the workers
30
38
35
33
34
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
I Body II Collar & Lining III Sleeve IV Assembly Average

Fig. 5-13 Average age of the workers
46

Worker's average experience
in this job
6
7
5
6 6
0
2
4
6
8

Fig. 5-14 Average experience in this job
47

In the questionnaire it was also asked about the skills of the operators. Fig. 5-15
shows that an operator is able to fulfil in average 4 different tasks.

ISTCOMP 48
No. of operations the workers
are trained-in
3
2
5 5
4
0
1
2
3
4
5
6

Fig. 5-15 Number of operations the operators are trained-in
48

Besides information about the workforce in each section the supervisors were also
asked to mention problems which they recognize in the sections. Most often was
referred to following aspects:
Absence of employees
Machine breakdowns
Model diversity
Level of difficulty regarding models and styles
ISTCOMP 49
5.4 The work flow
49

In this chapter, all operations of the entire manufacturing line for Ladies jackets at
ISTCOMP are shown in a chronological manner, in the process chart (See also
Fig. 5-16). The workstations where material enters and exits the process are de-
termined, from arrival of raw material to the finished garment. The process chart
shows the work flow which is equal to the material flow.

In the chart only two kinds of symbols are used to determine the work process. A
numbered circle determines the step number of the operation within the work
process according to the already known numeration (see chapter 5.3). The triangle
normally is used as a symbol for storage, here it is used equally to show at which
work station material enters the process.
50

Table 5-19 Standard symbols determined by The American Society of Mechanical Engineers

Operation

Transport

Storage
Delay

Combinations possible

Inspection

In the following figures the work process is mapped. First the entire production
line, then each section in a close-up view.

ISTCOMP 50

Fig. 5-16 Work flow chart Ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008
51

ISTCOMP 51
A1
sew darts
C1-2
sew & trim pocket flap with
automate
B1
sew back centre seam
I BODY
A2
sew front-side seam
A3
press darts & front-side
seam, fuse interlining
A4
fuse interlining tape to front
body piece
A5
fuse interlining tape to front
armhole of front piece
A6
clean armhole at front with
knife machine
B2
sew back side seam
B3
press back centre & side
seam
B4
fuse interlining tape to back
armhole & collar
A7
mark pocket on front
CA3
press pocket front & sort
front sides in pairs
C1
sew pocket flap
C3
turn pocket flap
C4
press pocket flap
CA1
sew welt pocket on front
body piece (automate)
CA2
attach pocket bag & close
bag
C2
trim pocket flap
CBA1
insert shoulder seams &
side seams
CBA2
press shoulder seams
CBA3
press side seams
CBA4
fold hem & press
BODY STORAGE
alternative
A= front body piece
B= back body piece
C= pockets
Critical path according to
standard times
Back
Fabric
Front
Fabric
Pocket
8
9
10
4
20
19
18
17
16
3
2
1
6
15
12
13
14
5
11
21
7

52

ISTCOMP 52

53

ISTCOMP 53

54

ISTCOMP 54

55

For the set-up of the simulation with Enterprise Dynamics in chapter 9 the previous
work flow charts were taken as a basis to build-on and to modify according to the
aspects of LM and the TPS.
ISTCOMP 55
5.5 Time Studies
In all branches of producing industries, time studies have always been an impor-
tant tool to analyse production techniques and to detect methods to increase pro-
ductivity. Also, a very successful method is Motion and Time Study which should
be mentioned but not explained here in detail.
56

At ISTCOMP time studies were taken by the production planning manager ap-
proximately during the last 20 years. The standards times which were derived from
those time studies are not up to date, so time studies needed to be accomplished
again.
It was chosen to carry out the time studies in the same way ISTCOMP accom-
plished them. The REFA system and the stopwatch technique are the tools used.
The bundle size during the time studies varied between 20 and 25 pieces per bun-
dle. It needs to mentioned, that the bundle size is not taken into account in the
simulation model in chapter 8.
According to the REFA system, the time of each operation (t) is taken several
times, in this case 15 times (n=15). In former time studies at the companies, only
10 measurements were taken. To be sure of the quality of the measurements it
was decided to increase the number of measurements by 5. During this measure-
ment as well the effort level (L) of the worker was evaluated, which is also called
rating factor. To evaluate the level it was necessary to observe the operator for
quite a time to be able to estimate the level of pace he is working with. So as well
15 measurements of the mentioned rating factor were taken. All data was col-
lected in a REFA data sheet and then for better handling transferred to an Excel-
sheet.
It is important to understand, that the standard times are established by a particu-
lar operator also, times are taken by a particular work measurement analyst.
Therefore the operational time can change if the operator, fulfilling the task,
changes. This issue can be minimized if the effort of the operator is evaluated as
well. Of course evaluation is again depending on the analysts subjective impres-
sion, but with an experienced analyst there should not be a problem.
Even with regards to these variations, the determined standard time should stay
constant when another operator is assigned to the task. Motion and time study can
be used to determine the standard number of minutes that a qualified, properly

Motion and time study has as its objective the elimination of unnecessary work, the design of
methods which are most effective, which require the least effort, and which are suited to the per-
son who uses them. Moreover, it provides methods of measuring work for determining a perform-
ance index or productivity index for an individual or a Group of workers, a department, or for an
entire plant.
ISTCOMP 56
trained, and experienced person needs to perform a specific task or operation
when working at a normal pace. This time standard may be used for planning and
scheduling work, for cost estimating, or for labour cost control. It also may serve
as the basis for a wage incentive plan. Another important function is to investigate
all operations in the manufacturing line. If necessary time studies can give an idea
about issues like the elimination of steps, the combination of operations with oth-
ers, a better sequence in the line or more economical machines.

Fig. 5-21 REFA standard form for time studies
57

ISTCOMP 57

Fig. 5-22 REFA standard form for time studies additional side
58

To find the right standard time t, the average level of effort i L is calculated, divided
by 100 and multiplied by the average of the measured times i t . See Equation 5-3)

n
L
L
n
i
i
i
=
=
1

Equation 5-1 Average level of effort
n
t
t
n
i
i
i
=
=
1

Equation 5-2 Average of measure times
59

i
i
t
L
t =
100

Equation 5-3 Standard time
60

ISTCOMP 58
Where: n= overall number of measurements
t
i
= time taken at measurement i
L
i
= effort level at measurement i
i= number of measurement

To this actual time, also called normal time, an allowance compensation for han-
dling is added, at ISTCOMP it is 5% for work with automates and 10% for manual
work. It needs to be recognized that many other factors influence operational time,
too. This concerns the method, the operator, the properties of the fabric, trimmings
and accessories, the working environment, the quality level of the product, et cet-
era.
61

However, it is not expected that a person will work all day without some interrup-
tions. The operator may take time out for personal needs, for rest, and reasons
beyond his or her control.
Allowance for such interruptions to production may be classified as follows:
(1) Personal allowance
(2) Fatigue allowance
(3) Delay allowance
These allowances are applied separate from the rating factor. The resulting value
is the standard time for the particular operation.
The simulation model in Chapter 8 is based on time studies at ISTCOMP. To set
up the simulation model the standard times were not taken into account, but the
distribution based on the single measurements. This arrangement was made be-
cause variations in the operational times should be displayed; sticking to prede-
termined standard times would, due to their rigidity, decrease the models authen-
ticity for realistic applications.

Line Balancing 59
6 Line Balancing
Besides other aspects, output is affected negatively by:
Poor training and absenteeism of operators
Inadequate work study
Low standards in machine reliability
Low labour turnover
Poor line balancing
According to the scope of this paper, chapter 6 deals with the aspect of line bal-
ancing in garment production only.
6.1 Line Balancing in general
62,63

For keeping the production of garments uninterrupted as long as possible, prereq-
uisites are continuous supply of materials, cut-work and trimmings. Shortages of
specialized machinery or labour force with special skills should also be anticipated.
Minimizing changes within the manufacturing line, improves performance of su-
pervisors and operators which on the other hand results in higher output volume
and more consistent quality results.
To gain more control over the processes in production and to co-ordinate the
available workforce and equipment, it is necessary to schedule each workstation
of the line. Indeed, buffers between the operations, which also effect Work-in-
Process (WIP), help to overcome short-term problems, but good balancing and
small stocks are imperative for effective factory routine and successive manufac-
turer.
To determine the ideal number of workers, which should be assigned to the pro-
duction line, is analogous to the process of assigning the number of workers to a
workstation. Of course, there are other techniques determining the amount of
manpower needed; the Gantt chart for example can give an idea concerning the
number of employees involved in the process. The most adequate method to de-
termine the number of operators is to calculate it.
In the following example, calculation is made with assumed data.
The target is, to balance a production line with eight operators. The specific work
assignment might be as follows:

Line Balancing 60
Table 6-1 Example calculation 1
i SM
i

Waiting time based
on slowest operator
AM
1 0.88 1.13 2.01
2 1.34 0.67 2.01
3 1.12 0.89 2.01
4 2.01 - 2.01
5 0.95 1.06 2.01
6 1.66 0.35 2.01
7 1.84 0.17 2.01
8 0.70 1.31 2.01
Total 10.5 16.08
Where: i = operator number
SM
i
= Standard Minutes to perform operation of Operator i [min]
AM = Allowed standard minutes per operation [min]

If several operators, each performing consecutive operations and working as a unit
then the rate of production is dependent on the slowest operator. Here, operator 4
establishes the pace with a standard time of 2.01 minutes per operation.
The efficiency (E) of this line can be determined as the ratio of the total to the ac-
tual standard minutes, or:
100
AM
SM
E =

Equation 6-1 Efficiency in line balancing
64

Concerning the example, the efficiency is about 65%.
3 . 65 100
16.08
10,5
E = =
The idle time in % is calculated by
E - 100 time %idle =
Equation 6-2 Idle time in line balancing
65

Line Balancing 61
Regarding the example calculation, the idle time is about 35%.
Significant savings can be made, if the operator 4 could increase his/her pace by
e.g. 0.15. Then the total savings are 1.2 (=8 x 0.15) minutes.

Perfect balanced production lines are most unusual, only if the standard minutes
(SM) of each operation would be identical for each team member within the line
and without variations, the line could be perfectly balanced.
Normally, operators who would be idle because they are waiting for the slowest
operator will adjust their work pace or engage themselves in other tasks as not to
appear under occupied. Number of workers needed to produce the predetermined
output volume is equal to:

= =
E
SM
R AM R N
Equation 6-3 Demand for manpower
66

Where: N= Number of Operators needed
R= Desired rate of production (output)
In the example the desired rate of production is 700 units.

The production time is 540 minutes per shift. Per minute about 1.3 units can be
produced. As we do not want to keep stock within the line we calculate the de-
mand for manpower as follows:
The efficiency level is assumed to be 100%. Now, we have to estimate the number
of workers:
1
0.7 1.84 1.66 0.95 2.01 1.12 1.34 0.88
3 . 1 N
+ + + + + + +
= = 13.65
To adapt to a more realistic efficiency, we change the value to 90%.
13.65/0.9=15.2
The number of operators the line would need to run efficiently is approximately 16.
Decimals are always rounded up to integers. In this example, the value of 15.2
operators would be rounded up to 16. In practise, you could employ for example
15 operators plus one working part-time or on a hourly basis alternatively.
To estimate the numbers of operators needed per workstation, following calcula-
tion is applied.
Line Balancing 62
To fulfil the predetermined output volume of 700, the operational time at each work
station for the production of one unit shall be equal to Takt time.
unit
min
0.77
units 700
min 540
time Takt = =
In this example the Takt time is 0.77 min/unit.
i SM
i
SM
i
/Takt time No. of operators
1 0,88 1,14 2
2 1,34 1,74 2
3 1,12 1,45 2
4* 1,86 2,41 3
5 0,95 1,23 2
6 1,66 2,15 3
7 1,84 2,39 3
8 0,70 0,90 1
Total 10,35 18
*(reduced by 0.15)
To identify the slowest operation we divide the estimated number of operators by
the SM
i
.
i SM
i
/no. of operators
i
Time per operation
1 0.88/2 0.44
2 1.34/2 0.67
3 1.12/2 0.56
4 1.86/3 0.62
5 0.95/2 0.48
6 1.66/3 0.55
7 1.84/3 0.61
8 0.7/1 0.7
From this table we can see that with the calculated amount of workers per opera-
tion, operator 8 determines the output per production time.
Line Balancing 63
According to the calculation, the output of the line after the warming up period
would be equal to:
shift per pieces 765
minutes standard 0,7
minutes 540 worker 1
=

The output per hour is 85 units.
In case, it is necessary to increase the production volume or to increase the rate of
production of worker 8, following options could resolve the problem:
1. The operator at workstation 8 works overtime, thus accumulating a small
stock at this point of the line.
2. A part-time worker could be added to increase the output at operation num-
ber 8.
3. A part of the workload of operator 8 could be reassigning to operator 1 or
operator 5.
4. The technique of operator 8 could be improved to reduce standard cycle
time of this operation.
Other important strategies for improving balance in the production line are
1. work element sharing (one operation at two or more workstations)
Two or more operators whose operation includes some idle time-sharing the work
of another operation.

Fig. 6-1 Work element sharing
67

Operation 1
Operation 2
33% of Operation 4
Workstation B
Workstation A
Idle time
Operation 3
33% of Operation 4
Workstation C
33% of Operation 4
Line Balancing 64
Disadvantages:
Additional handling and transport time because material needs to be
delivered to various stations, not only to a single one.
Added costs for duplicate tooling, e.g. folding devices.
2. Divide work element (one operation at one workstation)
Two or more operators whose operations includes some idle time share the work
at another workstation.

Fig. 6-2 Division of work element
68

From an economic point of view, it makes not always sense to divide an element.
If the workplace needs to be ergonomically installed every time another operator
uses it, the time for installing the workstation is higher then the savings which can
be made by dividing the work element. Also if those operators are idle at the same
time the division of work elements is not of great use.
3. Assembly sequence
Normally, product design determinates the sequence of operations within the as-
sembly line. Some work steps can only start after the previous step has been
completed, e.g. the attachment of the flap pocket before closing the pocket bag.
Others do not necessarily need to be done in a particular sequence, e.g. sewing
first the back-side seams and the combining two of those parts, by sewing the
back middle or vice versa.
Operation 1
Operation 2
Workstation B
Workstation A
Idle time
Operation 3
Workstation C
Workstation D
Operation 4
Line Balancing 65

Fig. 6-3 Assembly sequence
69

Reconsidering available production methods, floor space or the functional design
of the product, can save operational time in production.

Sew middle
back
Close back-side
seams
Close back-side
seams
Sew middle
back
OR
Line Balancing 66
6.2 Line balancing at HUGO BOSS
6.2.1 Introduction
During the research phase for this dissertation it was of great importance to find
out about state of the art applications regarding line balance planning techniques
in the content of Lean Manufacturing. The supervising Professor, Dr. Fatma
Kalaolu from the Technical University Istanbul, Turkey, initiated a field trip to
Hugo Boss production Plant in Izmir, Turkey. The aim of the visit at the Hugo Boss
production site, which is one the leaders in garment manufacturing in Europe, was
to find out about their system in production line balancing. Also, to find out more
regarding line balancing in LM was a particular aim of the site visit.
6.2.2 Production site
Today, the production plant in Izmir produces about 50 % of all Hugo Boss prod-
ucts. Suits, Mens shirts, Womens wear as well as sportswear are manufactured
in Izmir.
The plant is set up as three single plants which are inter-connected and work to-
gether. The suits factory is the oldest and biggest factory of all three. Besides the
suits plant there are the shirts factory, the womens wear (trousers, jackets, skirts,
dresses and blouses) and sportswear plant.
In the suits plant and in the shirt factory the products are more standardized then
in the third factory. More interesting for achieving the research objective, was the
womens and sportswear factory of the Hugo Boss, due to its flexibility. In this fac-
tory, the products are manufactured with great variation regarding models and
styles. Only the production lines in sportswear, womens jackets and trousers are
almost standardized.
The production standard time for a jacket which is about 112 minutes with a line of
22 workers should be mentioned. Ladies jackets are produced in two lines.
For dresses, skirts and blouses exists a variable concept, named Dynamic groups.
The section for manufacturing of above mentioned products can change in the
number of lines (up to three). Thus, layout and number of workers are variable
within the line. Also the combination of operators is modifiable; from one line with
22 to two lines of 15 and 20 or three lines with 8, 10 and 15 operators, all varia-
tions are possible. The Dynamic lines are set up to meet customers demand in
small orders, high variations in models and styles. These lines are planned and
changed according to the requirements of each order throughout all seasons.
Line Balancing 67
6.2.3 Workforce
The hierarchies within the workforce of the line are organised as shown in the fig-
ure below. One hierarchy level always reports to the next higher level.

Fig. 6-4 Hierarchies at HB
70

Hugo Boss plans to reduce the number of hierarchy levels in future.
The operators are trained in various operations. Their work wear is coded with a
specific number of stripes, signifying their level of training and how many opera-
tions they are able to undertake. Also, the operators efficiency, performance and
skill level determines when he is able to take the next higher career step. A Stan-
dard operator carries one stripe and has the capacity to execute about four opera-
tions; a Flexi operator can deal with about 10 operations and carries two stripes.
The next higher positions are Libero and Master. This ranking affects the salary of
the operator as well as the range of tasks s/he is assigned to. As a result, to be
trained well and to be able to execute several operations is not only the interest of
the company but also the interest of each single operator.
In each line a disabled operator is working, the so-called indirect worker; the other
workers are direct worker.
6.2.4 General system of planning:
First step of production planning is happening in the department TPC (Technical
Preparation Centre), here the new model design arrives from the headquarter in
Metzingen, Germany. The workflow, that means the technique the product needs
to be sewn, is tested and determined in this department, which is situated close to
the production line. The time to sew a production is determined by the GSD data
Operator
Team Manager / Team Leader
Group Manager / Group Leader
Product Manager
Line Balancing 68
on base of the predetermined workflow. Detailed method studies like MTM are not
made, because it would be too complicated thus it would take too much time.
Nowadays, HB focuses on setting up its own GSD data (General Sewing Stan-
dards). The common general sewing standards do not match the production condi-
tions of the company. Most of the data is outdated, in many cases operators need
less time then the common GSD data suggests, that might be due to factors like
state of the art machinery or well trained workers and a clever layout. To deter-
mine own GSD, the sewing operation is recorded on video then analysed by the
system for Motion Time Measurement (MTM). Of course, the standard time deter-
mined is double checked through time studies with REFA stopwatch technique. To
the standard times determined an allowance value is added. The value concerns
machine efficiency, fabric criteria, technique training issues and layout aspects.
After standard times for sewing the product are established, the information is
transferred to the production and industrial engineers. They plan the production
line facilities, i.e. workforce, machinery, layout and production output per day.
In relation to seasonal planning, weekly planning is undertaken by employees from
the logistic and production engineering of the production line. The outcome of their
deliberations determines which orders are produced in the following weeks. Simi-
lar products are produced in sequence to keep the layout constant. That means
the number of changes from one model to the next should be kept low, in order to
run the production smoothly without interruption.
Secondly the order size is important, completion of big orders are prioritised, be-
cause this minimizes the number of changes in the line and eliminates non-value
adding effort, which would be required to re-plan the line, too. Of course, an impor-
tant factor is the delivery date, but this is, on the whole, more flexible and based
on the contracts with the final customers.
When setting up weekly planning, logistics has to arrange the material according
to the production order. If the material, cloth as well as accessories, has not ar-
rived in the warehouse in advance the order is moved to a later point in the pro-
duction.
As mentioned, after weekly planning the definition of the number of operators is
the next step in planning. Again this is done on the basis of TPC data. In opposite
to common planning techniques, at HB planning is not based on the target output
per day, but on the number of operators available in the line. Producing with a high
productivity and so the line balancing lost is of more importance
According to the number of workers, the total available time to produce can be
calculated. The production line works in two shifts. The time used for production in
the early shift is 450 minutes, in the late shift 540 minutes. The early shift has to
work 6 days per week, the late shift 5 days per week. So each operator, inde-
Line Balancing 69
pendent from which shift he is working in, works the same length of time per week.
Each shift is planned separately.
For a quick access to production data Hugo Boss has set up a kind of library for
own GSD standard times. The name and code of the operation, the segment or
cell in which this operation is fulfilled, and the standard time for the operation are
shown in this library.
Also through DCT (Data Collection Terminal) which are installed at each machine,
the operator him/herself adds data to the system. With terminal data like RFT
(Right-First-Time), quality and efficiency, the performance of each single operator
can be measured and possibly used to rate him/her according to his/her perform-
ance. Up to now this terminal is only used on a group basis within lines.
Following information is taken into account during planning of workforce:
1. Number of available operators
2. Machines and other equipment required e.g. presser foot
3. The method and segments used to produce the product
4. The work flow or sequence of work steps (at HB called workmanship)
5. Operation number and standard times (from GSD)
6. Date of production start (determined by weekly planning)
Information 2, 3 and 4 are determined by the TPC department.
6.2.5 Efficiency
The total efficiency is determined from 100% by subtracting machinery efficiency
for example due to automated processes (e.g. 95%), the fabric criteria (e.g. 85%)
the method training (e.g. 2.4%) and the layout (e.g. 0.91 %). All these factors af-
fect the total efficiency of the various operations.

Group efficiency is calculated by
shifts two of time working total workers of no.
ironing) and sewing from piece per (SM produced pieces of no.
efficiency Group
=
Equation 6-4 Group efficiency
71

Line Balancing 70
Group performance is calculated by:
e performanc Group
time) extra - shifts) (two time working (total workers of no.
ironing) and sewing from piece per (SM produced pieces of no.
=
Equation 6-5 Group performance
72

In the Group performance extra time, i.e. time for maintenance of machines, wait-
ing time etc., is subtracted from the available total time. Group values should al-
ways be lower then personal values.
An example:
The line has 25 operators which are working in two shifts with a duration of 450
and 540 minutes. It takes 132.4 minutes to sew the product, ironing takes 15.01
minutes. The group produces 152 units. The extra time for waiting is 40 minutes.
905 . 0
90 9 25
15.01) (132,4 152
efficiency Group =
+
=
The group efficiency is 90.5%.
943 , 0
40 * 25 990 * 25
15.01) (132.4 152
e performanc Group =
+
=
The group performance is 94.3

Personal efficiency:
Also data is gained each operation the worker fulfils.
Personal efficiency
shift the of time working total
piece per operation of SM operation in produced pieces of no.
n
1 i
i i
=
=
Equation 6-6 Personal efficiency
73

Each standard minute value per operation is multiplied with the no. of pieces pro-
duced by the particular operation, then the values are added up. Finally, the total
value is divided by the working time of one worker i.e. according to the shift s/he
has worked, by the value 540 (late shift) or 450 (early shift).

Line Balancing 71
Personal Performance:
time extra - shift the of time working total
piece per operation of SM operation in produced pieces of no.
e performanc Personal
n
1 i
i i
=
=

Equation 6-7 Personal performance
74

Again, the time not depending on the operator, like machine shutdown or waiting
time, is subtracted from the total working time.
Personal values should always be higher than group values.
An example: Operator A fulfils 4 different operations.
Table 6-4 Example: Operator A fulfils 4 different operations
Operation (i)
SM per operation meas-
ured
No. of pieces
1 2.45 75
2 1.12 90
3 0.68 75
4 1.01 120
Additional time: Machine breakdown: 40 minutes, waiting time: 15 minutes.
846 . 0
540
120 * 01 . 1 75 * 68 . 0 90 * 12 . 1 75 * 45 . 2
efficiency Personal =
+ + +
=
The personal efficiency of the operator is 84.6%.
942 . 0
15 - 40 - 540
120 * 01 . 1 75 * 68 . 0 90 * 12 . 1 75 * 45 . 2
e performanc Personal =
+ + +
=
The Personal performance of the operator is 94.2%
At HB the method of line balancing is based on the number of operators available
in the particular line. Planning is done with an Excel sheet set up in advance. The
line balancing sheet also shows the efficiency according to the operators perform-
ance. An example shall give Table 6-5.

Line Balancing 72
Table 6-5 Line balancing sheet at HB
Operation Operator
N
o
.

N
a
m
e

S
e
g
m
e
n
t

S
t
a
n
d
a
r
d

t
i
m
e

(
S
M
)

E
f
f
i
c
i
e
n
c
y

(
E
F
F
)

S
M
*
E
F
F

U
t
i
l
i
t
y

N
o
.

N
a
m
e

T
o
t
a
l

U
t
i
l
i
t
y

M
a
c
h
i
n
e

1267
Front
skirt
blind
stitch
Front prepa-
ration
0,33 100 0,33 0,1 1 A 0,1
Blind
stitch
sewing
machine
4356
Join
front &
back of
lining
Lining
preparation
1,88 100 1,88 0,4 2 B 0,8
3Thread
overlok
4321
Join
back
middle
Lining
preparation
1,62 100 1,62 0,4 2 B 0,8
Sewing
machine

The utility is either calculated as a percentage of the predetermined Takt time
which was in this case 4.4 min/unit or by the output multiplied with TE-EFF, di-
vided by the shift duration of 540 minutes.
The Takt time results from the division of the time per shift through the number of
units produced. Here, in a shift of 540 minutes a production of 124 units was tar-
geted.
In turn, the output volume can be calculated by multiplying the planned number of
operators with the time per available operator, divided by the production time per
model. To consider the line balancing lost, the total has to be multiplied with the
value the line balancing lost which previously was deducted from 1. The produc-
tion time per model is predetermined by the TPC, as mentioned.

Lost Balancing Line - 1 * )
ironig and sewing from model per time production
available operator per time * operators of number planned
(
volume Output
=

Equation 6-8 Output volume according to HB
75

The line balancing lost is calculated by subtraction of the no. of planned operators
from the no. operators which are actually used in this planning sheet. The number
Line Balancing 73
of the operators assigned, is the sum of the total utility of all operators used during
planning. The planned number of operators is the sum of all single utilities of the
operators.
As an example, the total utility of 0.8 tells that if 124 units shall be produced in 540
minutes the operator is 80% busy and 20% idle.
Assigning the operators to the various operations in the line is done by the indus-
trial engineer. By trying to add up the total utility of each worker to the value one
the line balancing lost can be reduced to a minimum. During planning, s/he also
has to consider the line layout and the sequence of the operations in the produc-
tion and the availability of the machine in the machine pool. After planning the lay-
out is constructed with Microsoft Office Visio.
6.2.6 Special conditions in Dynamic lines
For more flexibility in the production lines, a higher value for the line balancing lost
is assumed in the Dynamic Lines.
Applied values for the various lines:
Dynamic lines: < 10 %
Blazer: < 5 %
Trousers: 5-7%
Time for producing one product is defined by the critical path in the production line
and on basis of the predetermined standard minutes. This means the operations,
which determine the time to produce one unit output. The work flow of the line
needs to be known as well, to have an overview which operations are more and
which are less dependent on preceding one. During the visit at the plant, the cell of
front panel preparation and the assembly cell of a dress were determining the time
to finish one product. This critical path also defines the areas were the bundle size
in use is reduced to one according to lean manufacturing practices. With this lot
size the accumulation of stock and a high WIP are prevented. In the sections
which serve the critical path the bundle size is not of great importance, in the Dy-
namic line it is reduced to 4-5 pieces. Also it was found out that lot size one in
these section lead to a decrease in productivity. Thus, inventory is only kept in the
non-critical paths of the line.
Because of that the flexibility in the Dynamic lines is high, means conditions within
these lines are different from normal standardized lines. Due to daily changes in
the setup of production, some differences are as follows
The operators need to be trained in several operations. They need to be em-
ployable at various workstations and have the capacity to execute different
Line Balancing 74
operations. It is essential that they must also be flexible in order to adapt
quickly to new line arrangements and duties.
Machinery needs to be available. The definition of a machinery pool, the lines
can deal with is significant when planning the equipment needed during pro-
duction.
The operators have to work as a team to achieve the production target as
best as they can. If bottlenecks appear the whole team is responsible and
should solve the problem together. Also, when it comes to rework and quality
defects the whole team is accountable.
6.3 Simulation
When discussing the application of simulation in garment production with the em-
ployees at HB, following weaknesses in simulation software application were men-
tioned:
Too many variables need to be determined and considered to generate reli-
able simulation models. An important issue is the behaviour of the simulation
model during changing of product styles in production time.
Setting up the simulation model requires too much time. The time from plan-
ning to implementation is regarded as too long, when quick solutions are
needed.
To apply the simulation software also the connected skills to be able to work
with the program are required. Thus, the planning could only be done by
trained employees.
Also, changing and revising the model is very time intensive. Even making
little changes in the model and transferring those to the layout on the shop
floor is too slow.
HB is planning to set up an own simulation tool based on their information system,
which is called OPEX System (Operational Excellence System).
For each operation, the OPEX System supplies information to the workplace, the
quality and the method, also it offers the user a defect catalogue and records the
history of changes which were made to this operation.
With the data collected at the terminals of each workstation a data base can be
constructed which then can be used in the simulation tool. The company would
like to collect all required data for the application in simulation first and then to
concentrate on the simulation software. Software programs which were already
tested are: FLEXIM, Arena, ProSim, WITNESS, ProModel and Goldratt.

Line Balancing 75
6.4 Line Balancing in garment production
Line balancing in garment production is not as simple as it seams to be. Especially
in balancing apparel manufacturing lines, the responsible industrial and production
engineers are challenged by various factors.
The main issues which make line balancing such a tough business are based on
uncertainties of various kinds.
76

Garment manufacturing is a labour-intensive industry. The level of automation is
limited because the production of garments still involves operators. The complexity
of human behaviour is the most important factor influencing the production. For
example, the production rate per workstation is mainly influenced by the operator
assigned to it.
77
In the human centric and dynamic apparel assembly process, the
optimal operator allocation should be achieved which results in highest production
line efficiency.
78

During planning of the production the operators skills within the line is another
determinant for flexibility within the line. The more operations the operator is able
to complete, the more flexible can the planning of the line be. To determine the
optimal number of operations the worker should be trained-in, the so-called skill-
inventory of the line is an issue is garment production planning.
79
The operator
best fitting to the operation needs to be found,
80

Traditionally garment production is based on mass or large-scale series produc-
tion.
81
Today the production lines need to be more flexible then ever. Uncertainties
of the marketplace and fast changing requirements in the production make it diffi-
cult to balance the lines.
82
Fashion trends are changing more rapidly. Order sizes
shrink and at the same time are more customized according to issue like body
measurements, style and replacement cycle.
83
Thus, the number of different mod-
els produced in a certain period increased. To achieve optimal order scheduling
solutions, also processing time and order arrival time have to be considered
84
.
Also product cycle uncertainty, when predicting the complexity of production or-
ders and the degree of difficulty in handling an order is an issue
85
The material
flow is a critical factor,
86

To cope with the new requirements, producer introduced new manufacturing con-
cepts (see also chapter 4). PBS is not fashionable anymore. Instead of PBS cell-
like arrangements within the line seem to be more useful to ensure production tar-
gets. To response to the demand in the market the production line should be able
to handle multi-model or even mixed model production series, which is difficult to
plan. Through lower order volumes of course time savings during introduction of
changes in the production is spotlighted, too. Changes in the production arrange-
ment are time intensive, i.e. expensive. Set-up times play an important role to save
Line Balancing 76
time in production especially when a re-assignment of operators to the work sta-
tions was made.
87
The production within the line should flow to avoid costly inter-
ruption.
88
Also the customer wants the products just-in-time (JIT), thus time pres-
sure is also affecting line balancing.

More challenging then to balance a production line the first time is the configura-
tion or redesign
89
of those. To distribute the workload evenly in time, even if mod-
els, its operations and the number of workstations change in time, is a complex
task. Re-balancing existing lines is more challenging according to product charac-
teristics and changes in cycle time. The best result can be achieved if a high de-
gree ob similarity between the production layouts can be achieved. Consequently,
avoiding costs which are normally caused by changing the line like training of op-
erators, product quality assurance, equipment installation and time loss due to the
movement of operators an machines
90

How to plan multi-manned, work sharing and work revisiting
91
elements, when to
start production concerning earliness and tardiness, and how to assign machines
to operators in mixed and multi product assembly line are questions engineers try
to answer.
92,93
Through reducing line length, throughput time, costs of tools and
time for material handling it is possible to achieve the main target making the
production line more efficient.
94

Line balancing should be handled individually regarding enterprise sectors and
size.
95
A production line with standardized products needs another line balancing
approach then a highly flexible production line.
Another issue is that production line balancing also depends on the supervisors
interpretation and prediction of line performance. The skills and experience of the
supervisor are of great importance if the available line balancing techniques
should be used effectively. The supervisor should be able to manage balance con-
trol planning in a short time.
96
If the chosen line balancing techniques do not fit to
the real life configuration in the line the plan is of no use.
97

Software Enterprise Dynamics 77
7 Software Enterprise Dynamics
98,99

In this chapter the software program which was used in balancing the production
line is presented.

Fig. 7-1 Logo of the simulation software Enterprise Dynamics
100

7.1 Application
101,102,103,104

Enterprise Dynamics is an object-oriented dynamic analysis and control software
application used to
model,
simulate,
visualize
monitor
business processes to meet today's standards for dynamic engineering.
7.1.1 Model
Besides the so-called ED-Engine, the system is built on building blocks which are
grouped into ED-Suites. They are configured for a specific field of expertise, to
assist modelling of a specific problem or in a particular branch.
With the atom editor and the programming language 4DScript the user can cre-
ate, modify and fully customized own smart objects, called atoms and model build-
ing resources. Building up an own atom library is thus easy to manage and makes
modelling of other simulation processes with the same atoms much easier and first
and foremost much faster. ED already provides in its software the source codes to
over 130 objects.
Software Enterprise Dynamics, 78
The database interface of ED (ODBC, Open Database Connectivity) can dynami-
cally store and extract simulation data through the integrated Microsoft DDE link
(Dynamic Data Exchange), and the even faster ADO (ActiveX for Data Objects)
link with Word and Excel. Also SQL (Structured Query Language) calls from within
the simulation system can be used. Communication with remote simulation models
or software applications over the Internet as well as locally is assured. This means
plant floor devices like barcode scanners can be linked to the data base easily. In
addition, it is possible to connect the own dynamic link libraries (DLLs) to ED,
which makes it possible to use codes which are written in other programming lan-
guages.
The creation or customization of ED-Suites has no technical limitations. Advancing
or increasing the functionality of the ED software system is possible. Thus, even
simulation experts are provided with a platform on which a creation of new simula-
tion software programs for specific industries or for specific applications can be
realized.
7.1.2 Simulate
ED can be used to simulate business processes as dynamic-flow process activi-
ties and systems, not only for industrial applications. When building up a simula-
tion the entire production process needs to be investigated, all influencing factors
need to be detected. Even just by mapping of the process possibilities for im-
provement can be found. Through the detailed display of all operations the opera-
tors are more aware of the processes and their functions within the line.
7.1.3 Visualize
Setting-up and simulate business processes in a full virtual reality environment is
possible with ED. Animation of processes can be visualized in both, 2D to 3D envi-
ronments, which supports imagination and creativity.
Visualization and visual management improves communication. For example in
manufacturing, bottlenecks can be detected easily. Even employees which are not
involved in the simulated process get an insight into it and can support implemen-
tation or other changes. Another asset of visual simulation is the interactivity which
enables the user to interactively change the settings and processes in the simula-
tion even during the simulation is running.
7.1.4 Control
Flow processes can be controlled and monitored in real-time. Comparisons be-
tween actual production and data form simulation can be compared to check if the
production runs as scheduled.
Also ED can help to analyze and predict the impact of business changes in terms
of performance, people and profits. A comprehensive analysis can be generated
quickly and almost effortless. To avoid unnecessary risks, ED is also used as de-
cision supporting tool. The future performance of any business process can be
predicted.
7.2 User
ED uses open architecture and supports major industry standards. The integration
or connection of ED with other software systems and components that are already
in use is easy e.g. Microsoft Office Applications.
The original application field of ED has been modelling manufacturing, warehous-
ing, and material handling processes. Nowadays, the software is also used to
model, simulate, and visualize service and data flow processes.
To get a general idea, Table 7-1 gives a review of EDs clients and application
fields in the past.

Table 7-1 Overview Application fields and clients
105

Application field: Client:
Manufacturing LG. Philips
Railway timetables Prorail
Material handling Knapp
Airport & Airlines Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
Harbor & Shipping STAA

Enterprise Dynamics simulation solutions are available for the following product-
market combinations:
Airports & Airlines
Business Process Management
Contact Centres
Hospitals & Healthcare
Manufacturing & Logistics

As already mentioned, for various application fields Incontrol offers various ED-
Suites. The Suite used in the context of this paper is presented here shortly:

ED Logistic Suite
The ED Logistics Suite offers a solution for optimizing warehousing, manufacturing
and material handling systems. Resource objects which are available in this suite
are:
operators
assemblers
splitters
conveyors
turntables
cranes
elevators
racks
etc.

A wide range of ready-to-use modelling objects allows swiftly modelling processes
that are common in most manufacturing and warehouses processes.
It is even possible to build own equipment completely from scratch. Data can be
inserted through linking the atoms e.g. with CAD or Microsoft office applications.
The suite includes experimentation tools and VR animation.

Fig. 7-2 VR-simulation of a warehouse system & a production line with the ED Logistic Suite
106

ED can be used as a system within a network in intra- and internet environment or
as a standing-alone system.

There are 3 versions of ED available:
Economy edition
Studio edition
Falcon edition
The features of the three versions vary, so every user can find the best fitting state
of the art simulation tool with regards to application and budget.

The following, feature overview helps the client to select the right Enterprise Dy-
namics product meeting his or her needs:
107

In modelling:
Application development
Curve Fitting
Drag & drop modelling
Object customization
Object parameterization

In simulation:
Batch processing
Experiment Wizard
Optimization
Report customization
Scenario Management
In visualisation:
2D visualization
3D visualization
AVI production
Stereoscopy
VRML/3DS support

In control:
ActiveX client/server
Internet Protocol (IP)
Office Technology
OLE for Process Control (OPC)
Open Database Connectivity
(ODB)
Software Enterprise Dynamics 82
On the homepage of Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics, a demo and a student version
are available as downloads.
108
The student version is limited in numbers of atoms
and of course in its application options which makes it impossible to map out a real
production process. Complexity of processes which can be displayed with this ver-
sion is restricted.
For the analysis in this paper, a full version of the program was used. The com-
pany Incontrol, Enterprise Dynamics supported the work on the dissertation sub-
ject. Also, a three-day training course in basic applications of the program was
offered. For those users which are already familiar with simulation tools it will not
be difficult to work with the software, it is constructed very user-friendly.
So far, the company Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics has no customers in the gar-
ment production industry yet. A questionnaire was sent to various garment manu-
facturing companies. It showed that only a low percentage of the company knew
about the program. Unfortunately, only few of these questionnaires were returned.
The results will not be published in this paper because lack of response means no
reliable inferences can be made from the data.
Hence, to find out if the application of the software is useful for line balancing in
garment production is another aim of this paper.
To apply the software, low system requirements are necessary. A simple personal
computer which operates with Microsoft Windows System (2000) was utilized to
carry out the analysis. More details about the system requirements are noticed in
Appendix C.
7.3 Data
The variety of data which can be gained with the ED is far too broad to examine in
detail in this context. For the scope of this paper it is focussed on
output values
status of the operator e.g. busy or idle
number of units in queues
and utility values of single operations
Of course, bottlenecks detected will be analysed to set up the production as
smooth as possible. Further details are mentioned in the following chapters, more
precisely in the experimental section in chapter 9.

Simulation Model 83
8 Simulation Model
In this chapter the construction of the simulation model is described in detail.
8.1 Simplifications
To decrease complexity of the model construction, some simplifications to the
original data base from ISTCOMP were made. For the purpose of this paper we
assume that no time is allocated for following operational processes which are
likely to vary according to production site and context:
machine breakdowns
E.g. threads are not breaking, the operations occur are never interrupted
due to machinery issues, etc..
transport
The material goes directly from one operation to the succeeding. Time the
transport actually needs is omitted.
Single-piece-flow
The bundle size is equal to one.
No stocks within the production line
Inventory can only be accumulated after each subassembly process, not
within the section.
Continuous supply of material.
Fabric losses are not accounted.
Machines and energy are available at all times.
The process time is based on time studies at ISTCOMP and the resulting
distribution.
Influencing factors on the operational time like the operator, the practise
level, the material criteria, and other factors due to complexity of human be-
haviour are omitted. Also demographic, social, or health phenomena are not
taken into account.
109

The work flow for rework is not considered.
It is made the assumption that the line produces garments with zero de-
fects.
A working shift has a duration of 540 minutes.
Simulation Model 84
No change in the product model and style.
The product stays exactly the same during the whole production process.
Also material and trimmings as well as accessories do not change.
Time allowances are omitted.
The operators performance stays constant throughout the entire process
time. Breaks due to fatigue or personal issues are omitted.
The operators work without interruption.
Absenteeism and off-days are not important to the models application.
In all versions of Experiment A, the operators fulfil only one task they can
not move to other workstations. Hence, the number of machines equals the
number of operators as well as the number of operations. In experiment B
we assume that operators can be assigned to more that one operation or
machine.
Given that the purpose of constructing models is to enable comparison between
operating systems, the number of operational variables which are specific to a
production site and context, have been reduced to a minimum.
8.2 Aspects of Lean Manufacturing
During the construction of the simulation model, also aspects of LM and the TPS
were considered.
The one-piece-flow system prevents the accumulation of inventory within the pro-
duction, which on the other hand decreases the WIP value and the throughput
time. A short throughput time generates a fast turnover and so a quick conversion
of output into money.
As in the TPS and in LM, to prevent stocks the pull-system is applied within the
line. Each succeeding workstation is the customer of the preceding, so only when
the customer workstation asks for material to produce the material is delivered.
Piling up of material at workstations is in this way controllable, inventory can al-
most be omitted. Only queues after the preassembly section are inserted into the
simulation model.
Transport which is not adding value to the product should be avoided. In the TPS
needless transports or handling of material or output units is seen as waste and
should be eliminated. An improvement of the value-added-ratio is also a concern
of Lean Manufacturing. In the model transport time is not concerned so we as-
sume that the non-value-adding transport operation is eliminated.
Interruptions of the production flow are not taken into consideration. The material
in Lean Manufacturing flows through the process without interruptions.
Simulation Model 85
Another aspect of Lean manufacturing is the application of standard work. The
operation methods applied within the production line are predetermined by Time
and Motion Studies. Standard work ensures that the operation can be fulfilled re-
petitively in the same way and even more important within the same time duration.
Additionally, Takt time offers the planner the opportunity to recognize bottleneck
operations, thus enable the planner to identify at which point of the line improving
the process is reasonable.
Value stream mapping is essential for LM. Close investigation of the entire produc-
tion process is a prerequisite for suggesting improvements.
8.3 Setup process
110

After the setup of the work flow chart in chapter 5, all 85 listed operations were
added into the simulation model as so-called server. To enable better recognition
of the colour coding of sections which were previously allocated in the work flow
chart (see chapter 5) were kept in the simulation model as well. The position of the
various servers does not have an influence on the simulation.

Fig. 8-1 The layout of the simulation model
111

In this context, servers are atoms which symbolize an operation in the process
which is handled each by one operator. All servers in this simulation model sym-
bolize an operation with the name, coding and numeration from the work flow chart
of the production of ISTCOMP (See also chapter 5).

Simulation Model 86

Fig. 8-2 The atoms source, queue, server and assembler
112

Then, simple servers were changed to assembler atoms. Assembler atoms are
used when the operation is concerned with assembling of several (pre-assembled)
parts. For example the operation of joining two sleeves to the main body part.
Here two sleeves are added to one body part. According to the production line
layout from ISTCOMP some of the servers had to be duplicated to display the
number of workstations in realistic conditions. After these changes in the model,
the input and output channels of all atoms were connected according to the se-
quence in the work flow chart.

Fig. 8-3 Simulation model after the channels are connected
113

Simulation Model 87

Fig. 8-4 Simulation model after the channels are connected (more detailed)
114

Also, inside the properties of the atoms the send to strategies were changed in
some servers. The strategy 1. Specific channel: always send to channel 1. was
changed to 17. Round robin if available: all output channels are used in rotation if
channel is available. If channel is closed, then next available channel is chosen..
This was done to ensure that the preceding work station is not only sending the
workload to the first of the directly succeeding work stations (see Fig. 8-4). Conse-
quently the cycle time of each of the 85 operations must be established. To gain a
particular distribution for each of the operations, the time measurements from
ISTCOMP were considered. Because the times at ISTCOMP were taken in hun-
dredth of a second [hsec] they needed to be transferred to seconds first to facili-
tate easy application in the simulation program, then the statistical software pro-
gram Stat:Fit was applied.
115

Simulation Model 88

Fig. 8-5 Application of the values of operation 7 in Stat:Fit
116

For the application in the model, not the calculated standard times were taken into
account but the distributions of the measurements per operation. The reason to do
so is because process time of operations is variable and so a distribution is the
best way to represent real life characteristics. In Table 8-2 the operations and their
distributions are shown.
Table 8-1 Operations and their distributions (part 1/3)
117

Operation
no.
Distribution process
time [sec]
Operation
no.
time [sec]
1 Uniform(24,42) 44 Lognormal(20, 0.795, 0.488)
3 Uniform(31,60) 46 Uniform(7,17)
4 Lognormal(32, 1.78, 0.757) 47 Lognormal(19, 1.75, 0.425)
6 Uniform(4,8) 49 Negexp(16, 4.67)
7 Lognormal(35, 1.65, 0.617) 50 Negexp(16,1.73)
11 Negexp(31, 4.8) 54 Negexp(16, 1.6)
Simulation Model 89
Table 8-2 Operations and their distributions (part 2/3) 118
Operation
no.
time [sec]
Operation
no.
time [sec]
14 Lognormal(11,0.827, 0.308 57 Lognormal(9, 0.78, 0.55)
16 Lognormal(67, 2.4, 0.953) 59 Uniform(54,68)
17 Uniform(12, 26) 60 Lognormal(23, 1.7, 0.3)
23 15 66 Lognormal(40, 1.98, 0.715)
24* Lognormal(63, 3.07, 0,899) 67 Uniform(16,20)
25 Lognormal(5, 1.34, 0.319) 68 Negexp(17, 6.4)
26 NegExp(7, 1.8) 69 Lognormal(20, 1.34, 0.617)
27 Uniform(7,11) 70 0
28 Negexp(16, 3.53) 71 Lognormal(104, 2.88, 0.586)
29 Negexp(7, 3.33) 72 Lognormal(29, 2.56, 0.269)
35 Lognormal(14, 1.08, 0.731) 78 Uniform(65, 114)

Simulation Model 90
Table 8-3 Operations and their distributions (part 3/3) 119
Operation
no.
time [sec]
Operation
no.
time [sec]
40 Lognormal(54, 2.64, 0.481) 83 Uniform(11, 14)
42 Uniform(50,76) 85 Negexp(42, 33.8)
43 Lognormal(11, 1.31, 0.686)

The source atoms at the beginning of the production line in the simulation model
has been given a negexp(10) distribution according to literature.

Fig. 8-6 Changing the atoms properties
120

It is also assumed that the setup time for all operations is zero.

To verify the models reliability, a test run of 90 hours was made and the output
value was checked. According to data from ISTCOMP the output per 9 hours, that
Simulation Model 91
means one shift, should be about 700 units. The test run showed an output value
of 7076 units per 90 hours. Thus the output volume according to the model is
707.6 per 9 hours which a realistic value. The average output per hour is 79 units
(see also Fig. 8-7). The test run was operating without problems; hence, the pro-
duction line in the model ran smoothly without interruptions. The assumption was
made that the model is a realistic approach to the data basis of ISTCOMP. The
decision was made, to use the model as basis for further experiments. In the fol-
lowing chapters, the term A0 refers to the basic model, as discussed above.

Fig. 8-7 After a test run of 90 hours the output volume is 7582 units.
121

Another interesting view of the model is the 3D Model View. Through the addition
of the atom VR Building, the model can be enriched in its visualization with a
building and a 3D display of the processes. As mentioned, ED is not applied com-
monly in garment manufacturing, the 3D version shows unfortunately other types
of machines rather then the atoms which are indicating machines used in garment
production, e.g. sewing machines. Through insertion of CAD data (Computer
Added Design) into the simulation model it is possible to display realistic proc-
esses. Anyway, the atom VR Building makes the simulation livelier and gives the
user a realistic insight to the situation in the production line.
Simulation Model 92

Fig. 8-8 3D Model View after inserting the atom VR building
122

Experiments 93
9 Experiments
In this section, two approaches to line balancing are investigated in various ex-
periments. These are:
Experiment A:
Four different strategies in line balancing are examined. Five experiments were
completed.
A0: The basic models data was generated to compare the results of the follow-
ing experiments.
A1: By addition of parallel operations, that means the addition of operators to
increase the output of the entire production line
A2: Changes in circulation times of bottleneck operations to increase output
volume
A3: elimination of operators with low utility value to increase the productivity of
the entire production line.
A4: Changing queue sizes between the sections to decrease WIP values as
well as throughput-time.
As mentioned above, as part of experiment A operators are assigned to only one
operation, which means the number of operators determines the number of server
or work stations in the model. The operators can not switch to other operations.
The experiments are sequential, one follows the preceding one, starting with the
basic model A0.
Other line balancing strategies like changing sequence of processes to decrease
throughput time or changing the layout to reduce transportation ways can be omit-
ted. Because the sequence of the workstations is already ideal and transport
means are not considered. Also the bundle size is not important in the context of
Lean manufacturing with single-piece flow.

In experiment B, the operators may be assigned to various machines. That means
the number of servers determinants does not necessarily equal the number of op-
erators. To each section a team of operators is assigned. Operators of the same
team are assumed to be able to fulfil also all operations within the teams section.

As in experiment A, starting point is the data base gained in Experiment A0. Two
experiments are completed successively.
Experiments 94
B1: Operators are added into the simulation model. According to the layout
and workforce information of ISTCOMP, the operators are assigned to
one or more operations. In comparison to A0 the number of operators
should be reduced.
B2: Improvements on basis of B1 are completed. Through changes in the as-
signment of the operators and at the same time reduction in workforce,
the individual utility of the operators shall be increased and the output vol-
ume of the production line maintained stability.
The results of experiment B will be discussed in section 9.10.
Two methods to gain results of the simulation model were used.
First, the easier and faster method Simulation was used to detect points in the
process where improvements could potentially be made.
With this method, a certain time period is set and the model runs till this time. After
completing the time set, it produces values in form of a small report or you can
observe results in the model. There are only few values which can be gained with
this technique so the utility of this technique is limited. The simulation process
does not separate warming-up period and actual process time, so values com-
pared to the experiment method, which is explained below, might be different due
to that for the calculation of the values with the simulation mode the starting period
is taken into account, too.
In this context the simulation mode was used to get a quick overview of the proc-
ess, to decide whether or not improvements have an effect on e.g. the output
value. After the simulation mode showed the intended effects, the model was run
in the experiment mode.
It is also, possible to measure the throughput time by simulation technique.

The better method to gain more reliable values from the model is using the ex-
perimentation wizard. In the experimentation wizard, settings for the experiment
can be installed and values to be measured can be defined.
Experiments 95

Fig. 9-1 Experimentation Wizard
123

The installed values can be seen from Fig. 9-1. For the experiment, data from 600
shifts were analysed. That means 600 separate runs (=Number of observations) of
the model were achieved with a running time of each 9 hours runtime
(=observation period) plus a warm-up period of 12 hours. In the experiments the
value of the warming up period will change according to the application require-
ments.
For observation, all servers where material enters and leaves the process, all
queues within the production line, as well as some server or assembler at impor-
tant points of intersections were specified.

Experiments 96
In general, following Performance Measures (PFM) were taken of the above cited
atoms:
Input
Output
Average stay time
Maximal stay time
Content
Average content

Fig. 9-2 Experimentation Wizard, Performance Measures PFM
Experiments 97
From the information gained, improvement options were identified. Bottlenecks
were detected.
The combined use of the simulation mode and the experiment method offered the
chance to find points for improvements quickly though simulation and to gain reli-
able data by utilising the experiment method.
It is not recommended to try to get ideas for improvements through the experiment
method. With the setting, mentioned above, one experiment took about 6-12
hours, which was not only due to the properties of the hardware in use. Hence, the
application of the experiment method is very time intensive.
The results from experimentation are gathered in a report which can automatically
be transferred into an Excel file. The confidence interval defined for the values is
set to 95%.
The experiments will show the results of possible scenarios, also called What-if
Analysis.
9.1 Experiment A0
The experiment A0 is the analysis of the reference layout based on simplified data
from ISTCOMP.
In this experiment it is assumed, that in contrast to field data from ISTCOMP the
operators are assigned to only one operation, Hence the line has as many work-
stations as operations shown. That means 85 single work steps plus additional
workstation for work in parallel. The total number of 125 workstations equals the
number of operators assigned to these operations. At ISTCOMP the complete la-
dies jacket line had 96 operators; some were assigned to more than one opera-
tion. The assignment of operators to various operations on data basis of A0 will be
considered in experiment B.
9.1.1 Results of experiment A0
The reference model was analysed with the experimentation wizard cited above.
First of all the output per section was defined. The experiment gave following re-
sults.

Experiments 98
Table 9-1 Output values experiment A0

Output:

Section:
A
v
e
r
a
g
e

S
t
.
D
e
v
i
a
t
i
o
n

L
o
w
e
r

b
o
u
n
d

(
9
5
%
)

U
p
p
e
r

b
o
u
n
d

(
9
5
%
)

M
i
n
i
m
u
m

M
a
x
i
m
u
m

I. Body 712,16 5,11 711,75 712,57 697,00 726,00
II. C&L 712,15 5,11 711,74 712,56 697,00 726,00
III. Sleeve 1424,32 10,21 1423,50 1425,13 1396,00 1456,00
IIIb. Sleeve prepara-
tion
712,12 5,15 711,71 712,53 695,00 726,00
IV. Assembly 712,15 5,17 711,74 712,56 697,00 727,00

The output values seemed to be similar for all section, it follows that the input val-
ues needed to be investigated. It should be mentioned that the output unit, the
jacket consists of one body part, one Collar and Lining part, two sleeves and one
part from sleeve preparation. Table 9-2 shows the input values for all sections

Table 9-2 Input values experiment A0

Input:

Section:
A
v
e
r
a
g
e

S
t
.

D
e
v
i
a
t
i
o
n

L
o
w
e
r

b
o
u
n
d

(
9
5
%
)

U
p
p
e
r

b
o
u
n
d

(
9
5
%
)

M
i
n
i
m
u
m

M
a
x
i
m
u
m

I. Body 712,16 5,11 711,75 712,57 697,00 726,00
II. C&L 809,96 0,92 809,89 810,04 808,00 812,00
III. Sleeve 1436,08 18,27 1434,62 1437,54 1381,00 1497,00
IIIb. Sleeve prepara-
tion
712,12 5,15 711,71 712,53 695,00 726,00
IV. Assembly 712,15 5,17 711,74 712,56 697,00 727,00

Experiments 99
Comparing the output values with the input values of the queues, which are the
last step within each sub assembly section, the section where the bottleneck might
be situated was identified
Here, it was observed that the output might be limited due to a bottleneck in one of
the subassembly section. The input values showed that the Body section was
likely to contain a critical operation. The Sleeve Preparation part regarding the
work step concerned was too short to be considered an issue in planning. Also, it
was already established from the analysis of standard times of ISTCOMP that the
body section plus the assembly section were determining the critical path in the
work flow. (See also chapter 5), so the likelihood of the body section containing a
bottleneck operation was considerable.
Furthermore, the subassembly sections of Sleeve and Collar and Lining (C&L)
showed, by comparison of input and output value an inventory in the section final
queues. The starting point for the following improvements was identified.
9.2 Experiment A1
The data basis of A0 was taken to make the first improvements.
9.2.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment A1
The addition of operators at bottleneck operations should increase the output vol-
ume of the section and consequently the output of the entire production line.
From the data of experiment A0 the section of the assembly of the body part was
seen as critical. To find the bottleneck operation, various tools from the library tree
of ED were added to the simulation model. (See Fig. 9-3)
Experiments 100

Fig. 9-3 Library Tree ED
124

The tool Status Monitor, for example, shows the status of the operation interac-
tively during the running time of the simulation. The Status Monitor shows the dis-
tribution of the time, in which the operation is busy and idle. Due to that the model
works with a one-piece-flow the server can also be blocked if it can not give the
product further to the next work station.

Fig. 9-4 Status Monitor
125

Experiments 101
In addition the tool Monitor which was set to show the average output per hour
was often used.

Fig. 9-5 Monitor126
Most often bottlenecks are found in operations with a long cycle time; these opera-
tions should be seen as critical and so are clearly candidates for improvement.
For the detailed analysis of the outcomes of the experiments see in section 9.6
below.
9.2.2 A1 Changes
After the use of the simulation mode, it was decided to make two changes in the
body section.
1
st
change: In the Body section one operator was added to support the operation
at server 3, which means a parallel operation is added and connected to the pre-
ceding and succeeding work station. In the model all operations of the same kind
and working in parallel have equal properties. By utilising simulation following val-
ues were gained:
Table 9-3 A1 - 1st Change - results gained through simulation
1
st
Change:
Add Server3
A0 values After change
Change in
value
Change in %
Input queue
Body
[units/hour]
77 89 +12 +15,5%
Output IV As-
sembly
[units/hour]
77 78 +1 +1,2%
Experiments 102
The body section showed an increase in input in the final section queue from 77 to
89 units per hour. The assembly line output also increased from 77 to 78 units per
hour.
After the 1
st
change another bottleneck in the sleeve section was identified. The
sleeve section was not producing enough sleeves to adapt to the increased avail-
ability of preassembled Body and C&L parts. Next, the aim was to increase the
supply of sleeves in the sections queue.
The 2
nd
change of experiment A1 was the addition of another operator to the op-
erator at server 50 in the sleeve section. From simple simulation following values
were gained.
Table 9-4 A1 2nd Change - results gained through simulation
2
nd
Change:
Add Server50
A0 values
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Input queue
sleeve [units/hour]
161 178 +17 +10,5%
Output IV Assem-
bly [units/hour]
78 83 +5 +6,4%
The hourly input of the sleeve queue increased from 161 to 178 units, whereas the
output per hour of the final assembly section increased from 78 to 83 units.
Through the above mentioned improvements the output of the line could be in-
creased by 7.8 %. Once more the values gained by quick simulation can be seen
in the table below.
Table 9-5 Effect of the changes in experiment A1
Changes 1&2 :
Add Server3
Add Server50
A0 / 1
st

change
values
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Output IV Assem-
bly [units/hour]
77 83 +6 +7.8%
After the changes in the model were made the experiment A1 was run with help of
the experiment wizard. The warming-up period in this experiment had to be in-
creased from 10 to 12 hours, due to an increase in the WIP value. The outcomes
will be discussed in greater detail in section 9.6.
Experiments 103
After the addition of two operators in A1, other bottlenecks were identified. The
sleeve section was identified to be critical, because the comparison of input and
output values of the sections queues.
9.3 Experiment A2
The data basis of experiment A1 was used to make the next improvements.
In addition the focus of experiment A2 was based on the increase of output vol-
ume of the entire production line. The production gain is achieved in contrast to
experiment A1 not by additional operators, but by the changes achieved in opera-
tion cycle time. Changes in production cycle times can be achieved by improving
the working method or machinery. In the operation of joining the facing to the lining
for example, to add at the same time the piping, the use of a folding device can
significantly reduce the production cycle time.
9.3.2 A2 Changes
Following changes were made, before running A2 in the experiment mode.
As mentioned above, with the aid of the monitor tool it is possible to determine if a
server is blocked by succeeding operations. If one server shows a high percent-
age of the status blocked the subsequent server needs to be improved. The pro-
duction cycle time will be changed and adapted to the blocked servers production
cycle time. According to the properties of the preceding server, the production cy-
cle time distribution was adjusted to the same distribution as subsequent servers
production cycle time distribution.
The results of experiment A1 showed that the subassembly section III Sleeve is
critical.
1
st
change: First, in the sleeve section the cycle time of server 54 needed to be
adjusted to the preceding operation 53, hence, the operational time of server 54
was reduced.

Experiments 104
Table 9-6 A2 1
st
Change - results gained through simulation
1
st
Change:
Cycle time Server
54
From A1
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Input queue Sleeve
[units/hour]
178 185 +7 +3,9%
Output IV Assem-
bly [units/hour]
83 84 +1 +1,2%

As shown in Table 9-6, the hourly output of the sleeve section increased from 178 to
185, the output of the assembly section increased from 83 to 84 units per hour.
After the first change, a shortage in the C&L section was recognized.
2
nd
change: The production cycle time of the assembler 37 was adjusted to the
production cycle time of server 36, this resulted in an increase of hourly output.

Table 9-7 A2 2
nd
2
nd
Change:
Cycle time Assembler
37
From
A1/A2
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Input queue C&L
[units/hour]
89 102 +13 +14,6%
Output IV Assembly
[units/hour]
84 84 +0 +0%

The C&L sections output increased from 89 to 102 units per hour, the assemblys
output was kept constant. Because the increase in the output volume of the entire
production line was the aim of this strategy, further changes needed to be made.
3
rd
change: Once more, in the sleeve section the production cycle time of an op-
eration should be changed. The operational time of Server 47 was adapted to the
production cycle time distribution of Server 46, which led to an increase in the out-
put of the sleeve section from 185 to 205 units per hour, as shown in Table 9-8.

Experiments 105
Table 9-8 A2 3
rd
3
rd
Change:
Change Server47
From A1/A2
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Input queue Sleeve
[units/hour]
185 205 +20 +10,8%
Output IV Assem-
bly [units/hour]
84 84 +0 +0%
Unfortunately the output of the assembly section was not improved, so again other
changes were necessary.
4
th
change: The last change to increase the output value was made in the Assem-
bly section at Assembler 73. This operation got the same production cycle time as
Server 72 which resulted in an increase in the output of the assembly line form 84
to 104 units per hour.
Table 9-9 A2 4
th
4
th
Change:
Change Assembler73
From A2
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Output IV Assembly
[units/hour]
84 101 +17 +20,2%

Table 9-10 shows the effects of the four changes made as discussed above. Again it
needs to be emphasized that the results were gained by simple simulation, more
reliable values will be discussed in section 9.6.
Table 9-10 Effect of the changes in experiment A2
Changes 1-4:
Change Server54
From A1
REF
After
change
Change in
value
Change in
%
Input queue C&L
[units/hour]
89 102 +13 +14,6%
Input queue
Sleeve [units/hour]
178 205 +27 +15,2%
Output IV Assem-
bly [units/hour]
83 101 +18 +21,7%
After the changes the experiment A2 were made to check if the improvements
made have the effect identified by the simulation method.
Experiments 106
9.3.3 Results of Experiment A2:
The same effects resulting from the changes in A2 in the simulation mode could
be identified using the experiment method.
9.4 Experiment A3
The next improvements were base on the data analysis of experiment A2.
To keep the same output values as in A2 and at the same time reduce the number
of operators in the line is the objective of experiment A3.
To detect the server which might be disconnected from the production line, it was
necessary to change the send to strategy of the properties of those atoms which
had more than one output channel. The strategy was changed from 1 to the
strategy2. An open channel (First channel first): search, starting from the first
channel, and send to the first open channel found.. With the new strategy the
server leads the products preferably through the first output channel to the next
work station. Following the utility value was check was made during simulation.
Some work stations which were working in parallel to each other were either not
busy at all or had a low utility rate. Assuming that the first operator could also take
on the work load of the parallel operator, the parallel workstation was discon-
nected. After disconnection the output volume of the production line was checked.
If it was kept constant, the next operator was disconnected.
9.4.2 A3 Changes
First, two additional servers for operations 1, each one additional server for opera-
tion 2, 4 and 16 were disconnected and thus eliminated in the Body section. The
number of workers in this section was reduced by 5.
The hourly output of the body sections queue stayed at the value 102.
Secondly, the two additional servers for the operation 31, as well as each one ad-
ditional server of operation 23 and 25 were disconnected in the C&L section. The
number of workers in this section was reduced by 4
The hourly output of the C&L section remained at the value 102.
Next, the additional server for the operation 51 was disconnected in the Sleeve
section. The number of workers in this section was reduced by 1.
The hourly output of the sleeve section remained at the value 204.
Experiments 107
Furthermore, the two additional servers for the operation 62, and each one addi-
tional server of the operations 61, 66, 83 and 85 were disconnected in the Assem-
bly section. The number of workers in the section was reduced by 6.
The hourly output of the Assembly section remained at the value 101.
Summing up: The number of operators within the line was reduced by 16, as seen
in Table 9-11.
Table 9-11 A3 Changes- results gained through simulation
No. of operators Change in
Section
before reduc-
tion (A0)
after reduction value %
I. Body 32 27 -5 -15,6%
II. C&L 30 26 -4 -13,3%
III. Sleeve 20 19 -1 -5,0%
IIIb. Sleeve
Preparation
1 1 0 0%
IV. As-
sembly
42 36 -6 -14,3%
Total 125 109 -16 -12,8%

To verify that the output was kept constant or was changing only slightly, the im-
provements were run as experiment A3. Unfortunately the warming-up period in
this experiment had to be increased from 12 to 15 hours, due to increased WIP
value. The experiment had a duration of app. 12 hours. Results will be discussed
in the overview of experiment A.
9.5 Experiment A4
The results of Experiment A3 demonstrate that the output of the different sections
only changed slightly, the previously calculated values were rational.
Experiments 108
To reduce the WIP value by decreasing the content of the queues is the objective
of experiment A4. The throughput time was measured too.
In this case throughput time can also be achieved by using the simulation mode to
get reliable values. For that reason a code was inserted into the trigger on entry
field of the properties of the queue after the final assembly line.
The code forced the program to stop the simulation when the first product reached
the output queue. The code was structured as follows:
Do(
stop,
0
)
For the experiment 15 simulation runs were taken, to calculate an average
throughput time value. To compare it with the preceding experiments of course the
same method was applied to experiment A1, A2 and A3.

9.5.2 A4 Changes
The queue sizes are reduced as shown in
Table 9-12 A4 changes Reduction in queue size
Queue size [units]
Section before change after change
I. Body 700 50
II. C&L 1500 50
III. Sleeve 1500 50
IIIb. Sleeve Preparation 1500 50

Experiment A4 showed that the WIP in A4 compared to A3 decreased by 9.28
percent.

Experiments 109
Table 9-13 A4 Change in WIP value
Experiment Change in

A3 A4 value %
Line WIP 11682,52 10598,28 -1084,24 -9,3
A side effect of reducing in the length of the queue was that an increase in the
throughput time was achieved, as shown in Table 9-14.

Table 9-14 A4 Change in Throughput time
Experiment Change in

A3 A4 value %
Average
throughput time
[min]
19,90 20,07 0,17 0,85

Furthermore, the average stay time of the products within the sections queues
was affected. Two significant changes were observed; in the queue of the subas-
sembly section C&L the average stay time was decreased by 59,29 %,and the
stay time in the queues of the sleeve preparation section decreased by 96,38 %.

9.6 Overview experiment A
This section compares the data of the experiments A0 to A4.
Following factors were investigated:
1. Output
2. Takt time
3. Number of operators
4. Productivity per operators
5. Average content in subassembly queues
6. Average stay time of the product in the queue
7. WIP values
8. Throughput time
It should be mentioned that value changes indicated in the tables always refer to
the preceding experiment.
Experiments 110
9.6.1 Output
The following table shows the development of the output values during the
changes made in the experiments A1 to A4. According to the objectives, in the
experiments A1 and A2 the output value was increased. In the experiments A3
and A4 the output level was kept constant.
Table 9-15 Overview experiment A Output volume of the entire manufacturing line (1/2)

Output entire
line [units]
Change in value Change in %
A0 712.15
A1 762.37 50.22 7.05
A2 925.34 162.97 21.38
A3 921.91 -3.43 -0.37
A4 921.85 -0.06 -0.01
The output volume of the entire production line increased after the experiments by
a total of 28.28%, as shown in Table 9-15. Changes within the single section are
shown in Appendix E.

Table 9-16 Overview experiment A Output volume of the entire manufacturing line (2/2)

Output [units] Change in value Change in %
A0
712.15
A4
921.85 +200.7 +28.18
Fig. 9-6 shows the development in Table 9-15.

Output per shift of entire production line [units]
712,15
762,37
925,34
921,91 921,85
700,00
750,00
800,00
850,00
900,00
950,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
Output per shift

Fig. 9-6 Output per shift of entire production line
Experiments 111
9.6.2 Takt time
Table 9-17 shows the change in Takt time according to the experiments made.
A significant drop in Takt time has been observed, the time decreased from 0.76
minutes in A0 to 0.59 minutes in A4, according to that the value dropped by a total
of 22.37 %.

Table 9-17 Overview experiment A Takt time of the entire production line
Output [units]
Takt time
[min/unit]
Change in
value
Change in %
A0 712.15 0.76
A1 762.37 0.71 -0.05 -6.59
A2 925.34 0.58 -0.13 -18.31
A3 921.91 0.59 +0.01 1.72
A4 921.85 0.59 0.00 0.00
Fig. 9-7 visualizes the development in Table 9-17.

Takt time of the entire production line
712,15
762,37
925,34
921,91 921,85
700,00
750,00
800,00
850,00
900,00
950,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
Takt time

Fig. 9-7 Takt time of the entire production line

Experiments 112
9.6.3 Number of operators
The number of operators was increased by two in experiment A1. In experiment
A2 the objective was to keep the value constant. Experiment A3 had the objective
to reduce the number of operators to achieve the stabilisation of values within the
confines of the experiment. The development of the number of operators is shown
in Table 9-18. The comparison of the values of experiment A0 and A4 the number
of operators shows a decreased by 11.38 %.

Table 9-18 Overview experiment A Number of operators of the entire production line
No. of operators Change in value Change in%
A0 123 - -
A1 125 2 1.63
A2 125 0 0
A3 109 -16 -12.80
A4 109 0 0
The change in number of operators of the individual sections is shown in Appendix
E.

Following figure shows the development according to the data in Table 9-18.
Total number of operators
123
125 125
109 109
90
100
110
120
130
140
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
Total no. of operators

Fig. 9-8 Total number of operators of the production line

Experiments 113
9.6.4 Productivity per operator
According to Table 9-19 the productivity per operator increased from 5.79 to 8.46
units per operator, which means a rise in productivity of 46.11 %. The output vol-
ume of one shift was considered. A shift had a duration of 9 hours.

Table 9-19 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators (output/no. of operator)
Output per Change in

No. of op-
erators
Total line
[units]
Operator
[units]
value %
A0 123 712.15 5.79 - -
A1 125 762.37 6.10 0.31 5.35
A2 125 925.34 7.40 1.30 21.31
A3 109 921.91 8.46 1.06 -14.32
A4 109 921.85 8.46 0.00 0.00

Productivity values regarding the individual sections are shown in Appendix E.
Fig. 9-9 shows the development of the operators productivity according to the val-
ues in Table 9-19.

Productivity per operator [units/operator]
5,79
6,10
7,40
8,46 8,46
5,00
5,50
6,00
6,50
7,00
7,50
8,00
8,50
9,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
Productivity per operator

Fig. 9-9 Productivity per operator [units/operator]

Experiments 114
9.6.5 Average content in subassembly queues
Table 9-20 to Table 9-23 show the developments of the queue content per section.
Table 9-20 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section I. Body

Average content
[units]
A 1.00 - -
A1 262.83 261.83 26183.00
A2 1.00 -261.83 -99.62
A3 1.00 0.00 0
A4 1.00 0.00 0
In section I. Body especially in experiment A1, after the addition of two operators
the content size of the sections queue increased. This lead to the change in the
sleeve section in experiment A2 as highlighted (see section 0 above).
Table 9-21 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section II. Collar & Lining
experiment
Average content
[units]
change in value change in %
A 231.58 -
A1 1.00 -230.58 -99.57
A2 132.23 131.23 13123.00
A3 160.26 28.03 21.20
A4 49.97 -110.29 -68.82
In addition Table 9-21 shows the change made in experiment A4; the size of the
queues content was decreased to 50 units to obtain a decrease of the WIP value.
(See section 9.5)
Table 9-22 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section III. Sleeve

Average content
[units]
A0 52.74 -
A1 0.03 -52.71 -99.94
A2 20.32 20.29 67633.33
A3 39.93 19.61 96.51
A4 37.54 -2.39 -5.99
Experiments 115
As already mentioned, the sleeve section did not produce sufficient units to adapt
to the increased production volume. According to that fact a changes in experi-
ment A2 was made as Table 9-22 shows. The sleeve subassembly contained an
operation which caused the bottleneck and had to be improved in experiment A2.
From the following table, the reduction of queues size in experiment A4 can be
easily identified in section IIIb. Sleeve preparation.

Table 9-23 Overview experiment A Average content in queue of section IIIb. Sleeve Prep.

Average content
[units]
A0 1500.00 -
A1 1500.00 0.00 0
A2 1500.00 0.00 0
A3 1500.00 0.00 0
A4 50.00 -1450.00 -96.67
Fig. 3-1shows the development of the queue content per section according to the
values from Table 9-20 to Table
9-23.
Average content in the section's queues [units]
1,00
262,83
1,00 1,00 1,00
231,58
1,00
132,23
160,26
49,97
52,74
0,03
20,32
39,93 37,54
0,00
50,00
100,00
150,00
200,00
250,00
300,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
I Body II C&L III Sleeve

Fig. 9-10 Average content in the sections queues

Experiments 116
Average content in the section's queues [units]
1500,00 1500,00 1500,00 1500,00
50,00
0,00
200,00
400,00
600,00
800,00
1000,00
1200,00
1400,00
1600,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
IIIb Sleeve Prep.

Fig. 9-11 Average content in the section queue IIIb. Sleeve Prep.
9.6.6 Average stay time of the product in the queue
According to the adjustment in the queue size per section it was shown that the
average stay time in the queues also decreased. The average stay time within the
sections queues is shown in Table 9-24 to Table 9-27.
Table 9-24 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section I Body

Average stay
time [min]
A0 0.02 - -
A1 119.55 119.53 597650.00
A2 0.02 -119.53 -99.98
A3 0.02 0.00 0.00
A4 0.02 0.00 0.00

Table 9-25 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section II Collar & Lining

Average stay
time [min]
A0 121.74 - -
A1 0.02 -121.72 -99.99
A2 57.28 57.26 286300.00
A3 71.90 14.62 25.53
A4 29.27 -42.63 -59.29
Experiments 117
Table 9-26 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section III Sleeve

Average stay
time [min]
A0 17.66 - -
A1 0.10 -17.56 -99.42
A2 6.82 6.72 451.58
A3 11.57 4.75 69.65
A4 11.27 -0.3 -2.59

Table 9-27 Overview experiment A Average stay time in queue of section IIIb. Sleeve Prep.

Average stay
time [min]
A0 775.52 - -
A1 760.23 -15.29 -1.97
A2 710.51 -49.72 -6.54
A3 810.03 99.53 14.01
A4 29.29 -780.74 -96.38
Fig. 9-12 and Fig. 9-13 shows the development of the average stay time in the
queues per section according to the values from Table 9-20 to Table 9-23.

Experiments 118

Average stay time in the section's queues
0,02
1,99
0,02 0,02 0,02
121,74
0,02
57,28
71,90
29,27
17,66
0,10
6,82
11,57 11,27
0,00
20,00
40,00
60,00
80,00
100,00
120,00
A A1 A2 A3 A4
I Body II C&L III Sleeve

Fig. 9-12 Average stay time in the sections queues

Average stay time in the section's queues
775,52
760,23
710,51
810,03
29,29 25,00
125,00
225,00
325,00
425,00
525,00
625,00
725,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
IIIb Sleeve Prep.

Fig. 9-13 Average stay time in the section IIIb. Sleeve Preparation Queue

Experiments 119
9.6.7 WIP values
The WIP value was increased in experiment A1 to A3. Through a reduction in
queue content size the WIP could be reduced by 9.28 % in experiment A4. See
also Table 9-28.

Table 9-28 Overview experiment A WIP values
Line WIP Change in value Change in %
A0 9255,54 - -
A1 9983,72 728,18 7,87
A2 11691,66 1707,94 17,11
A3 11682,52 -9,14 -0,08
A4 10598,28 -1084,24 -9,28
The development of the WIP value during the experiments is shown in Fig. ABC.

WIP entire production line
9255,54
9983,72
11691,66 11682,52
10598,28
9000,00
9500,00
10000,00
10500,00
11000,00
11500,00
12000,00
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
WIP

Fig. 9-14 WIP values of the entire production line according to values of A0 to A4

Experiments 120
9.6.8 Throughput time
From the data in Table 9-29, a drop in throughput time of the entire production line
during the experiment A1 to A3 can be observed. By the changing the length/ du-
ration of the queue in the production process of experiment A4 the throughput time
decreased slightly.

Table 9-29 Overview experiment A Throughput time of the production line
Average [min] Change in value Change in %
A0 21.17 - -
A1 20.76 -0.41 -1.93
A2 20.52 -0.24 -1.16
A3 19.90 -0.62 -3.02
A4 20.07 0.18 0.90
According to the values in Table 9-29, the production lines development in through-
put time is shown in the following figure.

Throughput time [min]
21,17
20,76
20,52
19,90
20,07
19,50
19,70
19,90
20,10
20,30
20,50
20,70
20,90
21,10
21,30
A0 A1 A2 A3 A4
Average

Fig. 9-15 Throughput time of the entire production line according to values of A0 to A4

Experiments 121
9.7 Experiment B
The collection of data as part of experiment A0 serves as basis for the improve-
ment strategies in the experimental series B. The model in experiment A0 includes
123 operators; each was assigned to one machine only. The output volume of the
entire production line was 712.15 units per shift. (See also section 9.1)
the installations in the experimentation wizard were changed in experiment B. The
number of observations is reduced to 300. Because of that and also, because data
from all 96 operators needed to be collected in this experiment, the process was
slowed down considerably. To reduce the real time duration of the experiment
from approximately 20 hours to finally 12 hours, the above mentioned arrange-
ment was made.
The following sections show the improvement strategies considered, the changes
made and the results obtained from the experiments B1 and B2. The results will
be discussed in the overview of experiment B in section 9.10.
9.8 Experiment B1
The data basis of experiment A= was used to make the next improvements.
9.8.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment B1
For each section of this experiment, a group of operators is assigned. Some op-
erators are now undertaking more than one task; others continued to work at only
one workstation. The assignment of the workers to the various work stations is
based on data of ISTCOMP. The objective of this experiment was to reduce the
number of operators staffing the total line.
9.8.2 B1 Changes
At ISTCOMP 96 operators were working in the entire production line for Ladies
jackets; the staffing level breakdown for each section was as follows:
section I: Body 27,
section II: C&L 19,
section III: Sleeve 14
section IV: Final Assembly 36
Small section IIIb. Sleeve Preparation operation undertaken by an operator
from section IV. This means that section IIIb. wont be investigated indi-
vidually.
Experiments 122
(The positions and the assignment of the workers is shown in the layout of IST-
COMP in chapter 5. above)
To introduce operators into the simulation model, some new measures needed to
be introduced. As in experiment A3 the send to strategy in the properties of all
operations had to be changed. (See also section 9.4) To lead the products with a
preference to a certain output channel through the workstations within the produc-
tion line, this arrangement was taken. As a result, parallel workstations of low util-
ity could be easily identified.
The operator atoms were entered into the model according to the data of IST-
COMP. An icon was made up for each of the 96 operators to differentiate all of
then operators during the simulation process. After uploading those icons into the
model library, they were assigned to the operators. To ensure that the icons, even
after restarting the program, remained inside the library, a code had to be inserted
into the Startup Script editor of the program.
Do(
RegisterIcon([H:\desktop files\MA-THESIS\ED-Simulation\operators_symbols],[I-1.bmp]),
RegisterIcon([H:\desktop files\MA-THESIS\ED-Simulation\operators_symbols],[IV-36-
96.bmp]),
0
);
The operators were assigned the same code as the icon which represents a spe-
cific operator, for example the operator IV-26-86.
The 1
st
number determines the section, the 2
nd
number the operators number
within the section and the 3
rd
number determines the operators number within the
whole production line.
After the operator atoms were added to the model, a team atom which serves as
connector between the workstation and the operator must be inserted, too. In this
model for each section a team atom was inserted. Then all server or assembler
atoms which should be served by an operator must to be connected to the team.
This connection was established by adding an input channel at each server or as-
sembler and connecting it to the central channel of the team atom. Of course also
each operator needed to be connected to the team atom, which can be done in the
operators properties in the field connect to team.
To assign operators to workstations, or better to server or assembler atoms it is
necessary to make changes in the properties of each the workstations. In the
Trigger on entry field you are able to determine which action should be taken at
the moment a product enters the server, in the trigger on exit field verse visa an
action can be identified which should be achieved when the product leaves the
server. According to this assumption the operators can be called when a product
Experiments 123
needs to be processed and freed when the cycle time is over, to proceed to other
assignments.
A typical 4DScript programming code to call an operator is:
CallOperators(in(2,c),1,1,[IV-36-96])
In this case it was placed into the trigger on entry field of a server.
The code is translated into following action:
When a product enters the server, it causes a call to the team connected to input
channel 2 of the server. The team calls one operator. With the priority of one it
calls the 96th operator of the entire production line.
To free this operator after the cycle time, the following code can be used in the
trigger on exit field of the same or a succeeding server or assembler:
FreeOperators(in(2,c),i)
The code is translated into following action:
When a product leaves the server a command leads to the team which is con-
nected to the servers second input channel. In this case the letter i stands for any
operator who was called before.
In the assembler atoms two or more commands can be entered according to their
number of input channels. The following command was inserted into both trigger
on entry fields of an assembler atom in the model.
If(
content(c)=2,
CallOperators(in(3,c),1,1,[ II-14-41])
)
If the content is equal to 2, the Server calls an operator though the team con-
nected to input channel number 3. That means the operator is free as long as both
products did not arrive at the workstation for further assembly.
Another option to identify of the operator which is called from a particular server is
shown below.
CallOperators(in(2,c),1,1,[IV-36-96], [IV-33-93])
In this case two operators can be called. the first choice operator IV-36-96, the
priority operator, is called, if s/he is busy the second operator IV-33-93 is called.
This arrangement makes the sharing of one workstation possible. The first opera-
tor is the main operator working at that station, the second with the lower priority
helps at the station if the first is busy.
Experiments 124
To make the movement of the operators more obvious, in the filed Action when
freed the command yloc(c):=yloc(c)-20 was entered in their properties. This
means, the operator once freed by the server, is stepping back 20 meters from the
workstation in y direction. It should be noted that the simulation software con-
structs the model in a model plane based on coordinates.
9.8.3 Results of experiment B1
The number of operators could be reduced according to the data of ISTCOMP, in
only a few cases. It was not possible to assign the operators to the same ma-
chines as in the layout. This was due to the Lean Manufacturing approach, which
considers no transport time as well as lot size one. In contrast to the simulation
model, ISTCOMP worked with a batch production system so inventory was kept
even within the sections.

As intended, the number of operators was reduced from 123 in Experiment A0 to
96 in experiment B1. The workforce was reduced by 27 operators; this means a
reduction of 21.95 %.

Table 9-30 Number of operators entire line
No. of operators
A0 123 - -
B1 96 -27 -21,95
Unfortunately, the output volume was decrease by
1
/
3
in comparison to A0. Table
ABC shows the change in output of experiment B1

Table 9-31 Output entire line

Output of total
line [units]
A0 712.15 - -
B1 446,64 -265.81 -37,33

9.9 Experiment B2
The improvement strategy of B2 is based on the results gained from experiment
B1.
Experiments 125
9.9.1 Improvement strategy - Experiment B2
The aim of the following experiment is again a reduction in the number of opera-
tors, while keeping the output volume constant at the same time. Furthermore the
line should be balanced through reassigning operators to operations. Work should
be distributed more equal regarding the operators work load. For this reason the
status of each worker was measured in experiment B1 to be comparable to the
results from the changes made in B2.
9.9.2 B2 Changes
A worker has two statuses: busy and idle. The work should be distributed more
equally to increase the efficiency of .the workforce
The changes in this experiment were completed in all four sections.
First of all the operators with a status of higher than 50% idle, were assigned to
more or other operations. This was done either by changing priorities in the Cal-
lOperators code in the trigger on entry field of the server or by reassigning them
to the tasks other operators were assigned to before. Additionally, the number of
operators was reduced by those operators whose status was 100% idle.
Some examples:
In section I. Body:
Operator 25 was assigned to workstation 19.
The assignment of operator 26 was changed to the same as operator 27.
Now, both of them are assigned to the workstations 20 and 21.
In section II. C&L:
It made use of the priority option at workstation 30. In case II-3-30 is busy,
operator II-6-33 is called, too.
In section III. Sleeve:
The 55th operator of the production line takes over workstation number 53,
which was handled by operator 50 before.
In section IV. Assembly:
Operator 71, 72, 73 are assigned to workstation 67. Operator 74 which was
assigned to the station before is now responsible for workstations 68 and 69.
Operator 73 takes over the workstations 61 and 63.
Operator 96 takes over workstation number 73.
Operators 81 and 94 are disconnected from the process.

Experiments 126
9.9.3 Results of experiment B2
Through the improvements made in experiment B2 the total number of operators
could be reduced by 4.17 %. (See Table 9-32) A reduction of each 2 operators
was achieved in sections I. Body and IV. Assembly.

Table 9-32 Number of operators of the entire production line.
Total no. of operators Change in value Change in %
B1 96 27 24,77
B2 92 4 4,17
Table 9-33 shows, that the output value of the entire line was reduced from 446.64
units in experiment B1 to 410.52 units in experiment B2. Thus, the output per shift
was reduced by 8.09 %.

Table 9-33 Output volume of the total production line
Input queue/shift Change in value Change in %
B1 446,64 -265,51 -37,28
B2 410,52 -36,12 -8,09
It shall be noted that through the reassignment of the operators to more or other
workstations the work load was distributed more evenly between the workers.
Experiments 127
9.10 Overview experiment B
The following sections compare the data of the experiments A0, B1 and B2.
Following factors were investigated:
1. Output
2. Number of operators
3. Productivity per operators
Here, too, it should be noted that those value changes indicated in Table 9-34 to
Table 9-44 always refer to the preceding experiment.
9.10.1 Output
As Table 9-33 shows, the output of the entire production line is decreased from
712.25 units in experiment A0 to 410.52 units per section in experiment B2. The
output volume was slightly decreased through the changes made in experiment
B2.
Table 9-34 Overview B - Output of the entire production line
Input queue/shift Change in value Change in %
A0 712,15 - -
B1 446,64 -265,51 -37,28
B2 410,52 -36,12 -8,09
The following figure shows the output value development according to the experi-
ments completed.
Total output of the entire production line
712,15
446,64
410,52
400,00
450,00
500,00
550,00
600,00
650,00
700,00
750,00
A B1 B2
Output per shift

Fig. 9-16 Total output of the entire production line

Experiments 128
9.10.2 Number of Operators
As shown in Table 9-35 the number of operators could be decreased drastically. In
comparison to experiment A0 the number of operators was reduced by 25.2 % in
experiment B2. (see Table 9-36)
Table 9-35 overview B Total number of Operators

Total no. of op-
erators
A0 123 - -
B1 96 27 24,77
B2 92 4 4,17

Table 9-36 overview B Total number of Operators comparison A0 to B2

Total no. of op-
erators
A0 123 - -
B2 92 31 25,2
The following figure shows the increase of the total number of operators in the ex-
periments A0, B1 and B2 according to the value of Table 9-35.
Number of operators entire production line
123
96
92
90
95
100
105
110
115
120
125
A0 B1 B2
Total no. of operators

Fig. 9-17 Number of operators entire production line
In Fig. 9-18 the values of the following tables are shown
Experiments 129
Table 9-37 Overview B - Operator number within section I. Body
I. Body No. of operators Change in value Change in %
A0 31 - -
B1 27 -4 -14,81
B2 25 -6 -22,22

Fig. 9-38 Overview B - Operator number within section II. C&L
II. C&L No. of operators Change in value Change in %
A0 30 - -
B1 19 -11 -42,31
B2 19,00 0 0,00

Table 9-39 Overview B - Operator number within section II. Sleeve
III. Sleeve No. of operators Change in value Change in %
A0 19 - -
B1 14 -5 -26,32
B2 14 0 0,00

Table 9-38 Overview B - Operator number within section IV. Assembly
IV. Assembly No. of operators Change in value Change in %
A0 42 - -
B1 36 -6 -16,67
B2 34 -2 -5,56

In figure Fig. 9-18 Number of operators per section the number of operators per
section is shown per section and experiment
Experiments 130
Number of operator per section
31
27
25
30
19 19 19
14 14
42
36
34
12
17
22
27
32
37
42
47
A0 B1 B2
I. Body II. C&L III. Sleeve IV. Assembly

Fig. 9-18 Number of operators per section
9.10.3 Productivity per operator
The following table shows the change in productivity per operator within the ex-
perimental series B. As Table 9-39 indicates, the productivity was reduced by
28.82 % regarding the values from experiment A0 and B2,
Table 9-39 Overview B Productivity per operator entire production line
Productiv-
ity per
worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Out-
put/worker
Change in
value
Change
in%
A0 42 712,15 16,96 - -
B1 36 446,64 12,41 -4,55 -17,77
B2 34 410,52 12,07 -0,33 -2,68

Table 9-40 Overview B Productivity per operator entire production line, A0 vs. B2
Productiv-
ity per
worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Out-
put/worker
Change in
value
Change
in%
A0 42 712.15 16.96 - -
B2 34 410.52 12.07 -4.89 -28.82
Experiments 131

Productivity per worker
5,79
4,65
4,46
4,00
4,50
5,00
5,50
6,00
A0 B1 B2
Productivity per worker

Fig. 9-19 Prodctivity per worker
Table 9-41 to Table 9-44 give an overview about the development in productivity
per operator within each section.
Table 9-41 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section I. Body
Productivity
per worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Output/worker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 31 712.16 22.97 - -
B1 27 568.40 21.05 -1.92 -5.63
B2 25 568.36 22.73 1.68 7.99

Table 9-42 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section II. C&L
Productivity
per worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Output/worker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 30 809.96 27.00 - -
B1 19 810.05 42.63 15.64 44.10
B2 19 810.06 42.63 0.00 0.00

Experiments 132
Table 9-43 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section III. Sleeve
Productivi
ty per
worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Output/wo
rker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 19 1436.08 75.58 - -
B1 14 933.19 66.66 -8.93 -9.21
B2 14 820.34 58.60 -8.06 -12.09

Table 9-44 Overview B - Productivity of operators in section IV. Assembly
Productivi
ty per
worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Output/wo
rker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 42 712.15 16.96 - -
B1 36 446.64 12.41 -4.55 -17.77
B2 34 410.52 12.07 -0.33 -2.68
The following figure shows the productivities per section.
Productivity of operators per section
22,97
21,05
22,73
27,00
42,63 42,63
75,58
66,66
58,60
16,96
12,41 12,07 12,00
22,00
32,00
42,00
52,00
62,00
72,00
A0 B1 B2
I. Body II. C&L III. Sleeve IV. Assembly

Fig. 9-20 Overview B - Productivity of operators per section
Conclusion 133
10 Conclusion
To evaluate the use of the simulation program Enterprise Dynamics in the field of
garment production with focus on the application in line balancing, a SWOT analy-
sis was made.
Following sections will consider strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats
of simulation software application in garment manufacturing.
127
In section 10.5 the
writers experience during the work on this dissertation is described. A future out-
look follows in section 10.6.
10.1 Strengths
Construction and display of different versions of the model are possible so
various scenarios can be tested. Thus, analysis of what-if scenarios can be
undertaken, at the pre-production stage enabling the detection of mistakes
during planning and before realisation. The different versions can be com-
pared to achieve the optimal design of the process.
Designing processes with a high degree of perfection is possible; this enables
the user to determine relevant values before the process is constructed in re-
ality. Costs caused through realisation of less efficient constructions can be
prevented. Factors to monitor the production line can be predetermined. If in
the application process the values do not fit to the simulations data, the pro-
duction line should be monitored to detect where the mistake is located. Ac-
cording to the factors predetermined monitoring and controlling of processes
is possible.
Simulation enables a real time observation of the dynamic behaviour of the
model and the relationships between the atoms within it.
First-hand information is available directly after simulation, thus direct feed-
back during designing the real world system is possible.
Visualization of processes makes it easier to communicate with other de-
partments. To study processes at several abstraction levels, leads to better
understanding of those. Already the set up process of the model gives the
analyst a close insight into and understanding of the process.
Important for training and education in the company as well at educational
institutes like universities is that theoretical knowledge can be communicated
effectively to the recipient by visualisation. Teaching and demonstration of
process concepts is more powerful. Simulation is an excellent medium for
educational purposes.
Conclusion 134
Through the linkages with Excel, data can be transferred directly into a file
and so is easily processable. It means that it is more accessible for further
usage. The data does not need to be transferred manually into another pro-
gram, significant time savings can be achieved.
The application of the simulation program is easy. Drag and drop construc-
tions make the application highly user-friendly. To construct the model no
highly sophisticated mathematical formulas are needed. The validity of the
simulation model can be easily verified by comparing values of the real pro-
duction process with simulation data.
During construction of the model the analyst does not need to be at the pro-
duction site. Especially with long term production planning, like the construc-
tion of a new production site the simulation model can be designed from a
distance by a specialist.
10.2 Weaknesses
A huge data base is needed. Data from all factors influencing the process
need to be collected and inputted. Building up such a data warehouse is time
consuming and expensive. Especially, when human behaviour enters the
equation, the construction of a reality-like simulation model is difficult to
achieve. Too many factors influence human behaviour so that the data basis
is gigantic. Some values need to be collected over time such as values for
time taken off due to illness per year.
The model is based on many simplifications even though collected data is
introduced into the model. The decision to which degree of simplification
should to be chosen should be made according to the results the simulation
is aiming to achieve. Also the decision of which simplifications can be made,
and which lead to a wrong model, is a task which only can be undertaken by
an experienced simulation model analyst in cooperation with an experienced
process planner from the particular industry.
The results gained through the simulation are only as good as the model. If
there are faults in the models construction or installations, the results are
wrong and of no value for the company. To determine when the model is op-
timal is another issue.
To run the simulation in the experimentation mode of the program is not suit-
able for making quick decisions. This method is too slow and most often
needs to be run over night to get the results in the morning. So the applica-
tion of the program is better suitable for long term planning than to gain quick
but not reliable results.
Conclusion 135
Introducing a new software application like simulation is expensive. Not the
price of the program determines the costs, but the set up process which in
many cases can only be done with the help of the software producers con-
sultants. Also training and consulting of employees using the program in daily
planning is an investment which needs to be seen as long term payment. It is
possible to use the software without any training but to build up complex and
reliable systems trained and experienced staff is definitely preferable.
Knowledge and experience in programming is a prerequisite for application of
the software and the creation of realistic models. In general, common em-
ployees lack the capacity to write programmes. Addition costs for training will
need to be taken into consideration.
For application in garment manufacturing, so far no visualization data is
available. The 3D function is not very useful for the application in garment
manufacturing; it does not display a realistic view of the manufacturing site.
10.3 Opportunities
If in future an ED-Suite for garment manufacturing is developed, the applica-
tion and construction of models as well as the 3D view can be improved.
If the atom library in the program would also contain atoms built for the use in
garment manufacturing, the design or construction of the models becomes
much easier and most importantly, quicker. Even those employees which are
not familiar with simulation and programming are able to use the library tool
effectively.
If the CAD data of machines and equipment is inserted into the program, lay-
out planning can be done in combination with line balancing. Optimum proc-
esses and layout can be developed simultaneously.
Simulation can be a powerful tool in training and studying of processes, which
make theoretical information easier to understand and represent theoretical
matters very effectively, indeed. Research work can be supported by the use
of simulation application.
High speed computer processors make experiments quicker, thus results can
be obtained in a shorter time. Time savings can be achieved. The tool would
be more suitable for short term application.
10.4 Threats
The relationship between reality and virtual reality can get lost if planning
procedures are only based on data gained trough simulation, experience in
Conclusion 136
the particular field of industry is still essential. Also if planning is done not at
the site but at distance, simulation models can be faulty and so the results will
replicate the error. In addition, if planning relies only on data gained through
simulation, practical knowledge and experience can get lost.
Some production planners might want to use simulation for all and every
change in the line. Quick changes are not made, because the change should
be justified by simulation. Flexibility in planning might be reduced.
Another threat lies in the possibility to get lost in the simulation application.
The planner might be prone for being carried away with the possibilities the
simulation is offering. The original aim might be forgotten, perfection of the
model might be highlighted instead of the real target in planning by using
simulation. Model design might be more time consuming.
Building up a data basis for the usage in the simulation program is time inten-
sive. The threat that too much data, which is actually not needed for the ap-
plication purpose, is gathered. According to the idea of Lean Manufacturing
this causes the production of another type of waste which actually should be
prevented.
To omit important production influencing factors during designing the system
is an additional threat. Through oversimplification, results will not display real-
ity and so the simulation model is of no use for the application.
Also if too few simplifications are made, under-simplification occurs and the
simulations result are not applicable in reality. If the program has to deal with
too much data, the time for experimentation increases significantly. The com-
plexity of the model increases. Individuals, who are not familiar with the proc-
ess, might not understand the model any longer and the communication pos-
sibilities the software offers are getting lost.
If the simulation software application is not used constantly, thus only used
on a project basis to solve short term problems, the model needs to be re-
vised greatly or even be built up from scratched again. The old model was not
adapted to the changes made in between the versions of the models. And so
is of no use for further simulation applications.
128

10.5 Personal problems of the author
Two aspects should be mentioned here.
Building up a simulation model on the data basis of the company ISTCOMP (see
chapter 5) was difficult as many measures, and information needed for the con-
struction of the model, were not available at the company. It was a time consuming
and difficult process to gain all necessary information.
Conclusion 137
Also, the use of programming language was challenging because this was never a
subject in the context of the study program the dissertation was written in.
10.6 Future outlook
The section will sum up the issues discussed above and display evaluation of the
author regarding the application of simulation programs in garment manufacturing
and in the context of line balancing
Simulation is a powerful tool in planning of production processes. Unfortunately it
is not used in garment manufacturing at present; consequently application of the
tool is still not adapted to the requirements of this particular industry.
Garment manufacturing is still and will be in future influenced by human behaviour,
because it is very handling intensive. Complete automation of the processes are
still quite a way off. Human behaviour is complex and has many influencing factor.
To consider these influences in simulation, a huge data basis is necessary to con-
struct reality like simulation models. Although simulation application offers a wide
rage of application fields, in addition to balancing of manufacturing lines, the de-
termination of plant capacity, managing of bottlenecks, observation of inventory
capacities and work-in-process problems can be considered. Also it is possible to
test new practices, to justify capital expenditures, and to optimize production rates.

129

If the companies are willing to introduce the work with a simulation program, only
the big companies would be able to cope with the effort of setting up the neces-
sary data base. It is unlikely that smaller companies will have the required skilled
workforce to handle the program. The construction of a simulation model is time
intensive. Besides the costs for training of employees, to be able to design the
right model for the purpose, it is more often necessary to take notice of the costs
of consultancy by the software programs producer.
Of course, the tool has great utility for education and staff training purposes The
visualization of theoretical concepts leads to a better understanding of the proc-
esses displayed. This is also very helpful, for example, when it comes to the im-
plementation of changes in the layout. To communicate the reasons for a change
is often problematic if based only on theory, the acceptance of the change may be
difficult to achieve. By simulation it is possible to show a sceptic the results dy-
namically, i.e. a change in the production line set up. It is likely that the rate of ac-
ceptance is higher, which makes implementation of changes easier.
If the company, Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics would develop a suite for the appli-
cation in garment manufacturing for example on basis of the Logistic Suite and in
cooperation with a company from clothing production, it could prove to be a very
Conclusion 138
useful tool, which would make the application of line balancing, as well as layout
planning easier.
Due to worldwide competition issues, industrial engineering is getting more and
more important in garment manufacturing. To be able to produce garments effi-
ciently in the western world, companies need to adapt to best practices and tooling
which help to improve productivity. The combination of industrial engineering
knowledge and practices in production management is significant in order to be
competitive in the global market. Simulation of production processes will definitely
be an issue in developments of garment manufacturing in future.

Appendix A 139
A. Appendix A
A.1 List of minimum wages by country
130

In Table A-1, a FedEE review of minimum wage rates is shown. The values of im-
portant countries regarding garment production and their gross minimum wage
rate per month are first shown.
Table A-1 Monthly gross minimum wage rates of an full-time adult employees. aged 23+ [1]

Country Local currency Euro Date effective
Albania 16,000 lek 131.46 28.02.2008
Bulgaria 220 leva 112.48 01.01.2008
Croatia
[2]
2,747 kunas 380.97 01.07.2008
Czech Republic
[3]
8,000 koruny 318.78 01.01.2007
Estonia 4,350 kroons 278.02 01.01.2008
Hungary
[4]
69,000 forints 273.60 01.01.2008
Latvia
160 lats
180 lats
227.66
256.12
01.01.2008
01.01.2009
Lithuania 800 litai 231.70 01.01.2008
Moldova 766.1 lei 46.63 01.01.2007
Montenegro 55.00 01.07.2007
Poland 1,126 zlotys 329.49 01.01.2008
Portugal
[5]
426.00 01.01.2008
Romania
[6]
500.00 new lei 140.28 01.01.2008
Russian
Federation
2,300 roubles
4,330 roubles
61.76
116.86
01.09.2007
01.01.2009
Serbia 11,094 new dinars 138.41 01.08.2007
Slovakia 8,100 koruny 250.50 01.10.2007
Slovenia 566.53 01.03.2008
Turkey 608.40 new lira 290.42 01.01.2008
Ukraine 525 hryvnias 67.04 01.04.2008
NOTES:
[1] Where official rates are expressed by the hour or week, they have been converted to monthly
rates on the basis of a 40-hour week and 52-week year. Minimum wage figures are gross (pre-tax)
rates and exclude any 13th or 14th month payments that may be due under national legislation,
collective agreements, custom or practice.
[2] Croatia: there has been no statutory minimum wage since 1996, but there is a 'lowest wage' for
full-time work.
[3] Czech Republic: Rates may not include travel allowances, on-call payments and severance
compensation.
[4] Hungary: the minimum wage is 20% higher than the basic national minimum for those with sec-
ondary or vocational education but under two years' experience, and 25% higher for those with at
Appendix A 140
least two years' experience or older than 50 years of age. Employees with university-level educa-
tion are entitled to a minimum wage that is 60% higher than the basic national minimum.
[5] Greece, Portugal, Spain: white-collar workers only. Workers normally entitled to 14 monthly
payments per year.
[6] Romania: based on 170 hours per month.

Appendix B 141
B. Appendix B
B.1 Data Basis Machinery
Following Table lists the available machinery in the Ladies jacket production line
at ISTCOMP.
Table B-1 Machinery at ISTCOMP
131

M
a
c
h
i
n
e
r
y

n
o
.

Machinery Type/Name operation the machinery is used in
1 sewing machine,JUKI,type 39376 edge stitch on the collar
2 sewing machine,JUKI,type JMNS sew comma seam
3 ironing machine, ALBA mark the collar, fuse interliningto under collar
4 sewing machine,JUKI,type MP200N point stitch
5
sewing machine,Union Special Colum-
bia
point stitch
6 ironing machine, Malkan press collar center seam
7 ironing machine, Malkan press collar
8 sewing machine,Brother, type BF40 preparing hanger loop
9 sewing machine,Brother, type BF40 back center vent
10 sewing machine,JUKI,type CP160 fix lining to shoulder side
11 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 join lining to facing
12 sewing machine,JUKI,type CP160 join lining to facing and fringe
13 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert collar
14 ironing machine, ALBA press lining
15 ironing machine, ALBA fuse interlining to front body
16 overlock sewing mach.,JUKI,MD3616 overlock seam
17 sewing machine,JUKI, DMN-5420N-7 plain seam
18 table mark collar & regulation of collar
19 sewing machine, JUKI, DDL-5550N-3 join front and back collar
20 sewing machine,JUKI,type CP170 prepare labels
21 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 sew side seam
22 sewing machine,JUKI, type CP160 sew back center of lining and fringe
23 sewing machine, JUKI, DLN-5410N-7 plain seam
24 sewing machine,JUKI,CP160 sew back side seam of lining
25 sewing machine,JUKI,DMN-5420N-7 sew shoulder side seam
26 sewing machine,JUKI,type CP160 sew shoulder side seam
27 sewing machine, Pfaff, type 1183 sew mark label
28 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 join lining to collar
29 ironing machine, ALBA final press of lining
30 Table separation of parts coming from cutting room
31 ironing machine, ALBA fuse interlining to front body
32 table mark and prepare pocket flap
Appendix B 142
33 sewing machine, JUKI, DLN-5410N-7 sew front side and dart
34 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 sew front side and dart
35 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 sew front side and dart
36 ironing machine, ALBA press pocket flap
37 table regulate pocket flap and turn back
38 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 sew pocket flap
39 sewing machine, JUKI,DDL-9000S join pocket flap
40 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP170 close the pocket bag
41 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 close the pocket bag
42 fileto makinesi,Robotech,auto mark welt pocket and attach pocket bag
43 strobel machine, Maier DC1500 fuse strobel interlining to facing
44 table match lining to body
45 ironing machine, Ayvaz fuse chest interlining and press pocket
46 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP560 sew back center seam
47 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 sew back side seam
48 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 sew front side seam
49 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 sew front side seam
50 sewing machine, Auto Beisler press welt pocket & join to front and back
51 sewing machine, Auto Beisler press welt pocket & join to front and back
52
sewing machine,JUKI,type DDL-5550N-
3
close the pocket bag
56 sewing machine, JUKI, DLN-5410N-7 preparing pocket facing
57 ironing machine, ALBA open press back seam
58 ironing machine, ALBA fuse interlining to front and press front seam
61 ironing machine, ALBA fuse interlining to front armhole
62 ironing machine, ALBA fuse interlining to front armhole
63 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 preparing chest pocket
64 sewing machine, Pfaff, type 1183 join chest pocket
65 ironing machine, ALBA fuse interlining to front armhole and collar
67 buttonhole machine, JUKI open buttonhole on sleeve
68 sewing machine, Drkopp Adler join collar edge
69 sewing machine with side knife, Pfaff
match front body with lining& insert facing to
body with side knife mach.
70 sewing machine with side knife, Pfaff
match front body with lining& insert facing to
body with side knife mach.
71 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP 230 join lining to hem
74 ironing machine, Malkan final press
79 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 close collar back
Appendix B 143
80 ironing machine, Malkan press lapel and collar seam
81 ironing machine, Malkan press lapel and collar seam
82 table clean tread ends and regulation of lapel
83 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 edge stitch on the lapel
84 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 edge stitch on the lapel
85 bartack machine, JUKI, type LP1900 bartack buttonhole
86 buttonhole machine, JUKI open buttonhole
87 sewing machine, Brother,type BF40 prepare chest interlining
88 ironing machine, malkan fold hem
89 ironing machine, Rotondi press shoulder seam
90 ironing machine, ALBA open press side seam
91 ironing machine, Rotondi open press side seam
92 table clean thread ends
93 table clean thread ends
94 bartack machine, JUKI, type LP1900 bartack buttonhole
95 buttonhole machine, JUKI open buttonhole
96
sewing mach. With side
knife,Pfaff,37138
regulate chest interlining
97 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert shoulder & side seam
98 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert shoulder & side seam
99 table match arms
100 table match arms
101 sewing machine, JUKI, DLN-5410N-7 turn back body & edge stitch on the arm
102 sewing machine, JUKI, DLN-5410N-7 turn back body & edge stitch on the arm
103 table mark buttonholes
104 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert armhole lining
107 sewing machine, Drkopp Adler insert elbow stitch
108
sewing machine,JUKI,type DDL-5550N-
3
preparation of the sleeve lining
109 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 sew sleeve miter
110 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 sew back sleeve miter
111 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert elbow stitch
112 button sewing machine, JUKI, sew buttons
113 sewing machine, JUKI, DDL-5550N-3 insert under sleeve
114 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert sleeve lining to sleeve
115 sewing machine, JUKI, DLN-5410N-7 join lining bottom of sleeve
116 sewing machine, Pfaff,type 33756 insert arm to body
120 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 preparation of the sleeve lining
121 sewing machine, JUKI,DLN-5410N-7 sew sleeve miter
122 ironing machine, Special press elbow stitch
123 ironing machine, Special press elbow stitch
124 ironing machine, Special press under sleeve
125 sewing machine, JUKI, type CP160 insert sleeve lining to sleeve
126 ironing machine, Malkan turn back sleeve and press
127 sewing machine, Pfaff, type 33756 insert sleeve head
Appendix B 144
128 sewing machine,JUKI,type CP160 shape arm
129 sewing machine, JUKI, DDL-5550N-3 prepare sleeve head
130 ironing machine, ALBA press shoulder seam
131 sewing machine, Drkopp Adler, VD374 insert sleeve pad
132 sewing machine, Drkopp Adler, VD375 insert sleeve pad
133 sewing machine, JUKI, DDL-5550N-3 insert sleeve pad and turn back

Fig. B-1 and Fig. B-2 show the position of the equipment within the layout plan.
Appendix B 145

Fig. B-1 Machinery at ISTCOMP within the sections I. Body and II. C&L.
132

Appendix B 146

Fig. B-2 Machinery at ISTCOMP within the sections III. Sleeve and IV. Assembly
133

Appendix C 147
C. Appendix C
C1. ED System requirements:
134

ED System requirements
The following data shall give an insight about the requirements for using Enter-
prise Dynamics. Of course the mentioned values and recommendations should be
adapted to the circumstances the software should be used in.
Requirements:
Microsoft Windows operating system, compatible with Microsoft Windows 98
(Se), 2000 (Service Pack 3), XP (Service Pack 2) and NT4 (Service Pack 6).
Configuration depends on the application of the
The following table is showing a list for three different hardware configurations,
minimum, recommended and advanced.
Table C-1 Hardware configurations
135

Minimum Recommended Advanced
Processor: 200 MHz 1500 MHz 3000 MHz
Memory: 64 Mb 512 Mb 1 Gb
Harddisk space: 400 Mb 1 Gb 8 Gb
Operating sys-
tem:
Windows 98 Windows 2000/XP Windows 2000/XP
Videocard:
OpenGL
compatible
Consumer
OpenGL
Professional
OpenGL

To be able to use ED at full extent, it is recommended to apply the software in a
system which is equipped with a 3D graphics card with at least 32 Mb RAM.

Appendix D 148
D. Appendix D
D1. Simulation Model Layout
Fig. D-1 and Fig. D-2 show the layout of the simulation model generated with the
Logistics Suite of Enterprise Dynamics.

Fig. D-1 Enterprise Dynamics simulation model layout
136

Fig. D-2Enterprise Dynamics simulation model layout with connections
137

Appendix E 149
E. Appendix E
Overview experiment A
E1. Output of the sections individually
The output of the section is shown of each section individually, and then the
change in output volume Table E-1 to Table E-9.

Table E-1 Overview experiment A Output volume per shift section I. Body
I. Body Input queue Change in value Change in %
A 712,16
A1 925,81 213,65 30,00
A2 925,62 -0,19 -0,02
A3 921,82 -3,80 -0,41
A4 921,92 0,10 0,01
Table E-2 Overview experiment A Output volume per shift section II. Collar & Lining
II. C&L Input queue Change in value Change in %
A 809,96
A1 810,02 0,06 0,01
A2 981,81 171,79 21,21
A3 981,02 -0,79 -0,08
A4 921,92 -59,10 -6,02
Table E-3 Overview experiment A Output volume Section III. Sleeve
III. Sleeve Input queue Change in value Change in %
A 1436,08
A1 1587,12 151,04 10,52
A2 1844,54 257,42 16,22
A3 1844,38 -0,16 -0,01
A4 1842,05 -2,33 -0,13

Appendix E 150
Table E-4 Overview experiment A Output volume section IIIb. Sleeve Preparation
IIIb. Sleeve Prep. Input queue Change in value Change in %
A 712,12
A1 762,43 50,31 7,06
A2 925,34 162,91 21,37
A3 921,94 -3,40 -0,37
A4 921,84 -0,10 -0,01
E2. Number of operators per section
Table E-5 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section I. Body and II. C&L
I. Body No. of operators change in value change in %
A0 31 - -
A1 32 1 0,03
A2 32 0 0,00
A3 27 -5 -0,16
A4 27 0 0,00
Table E-6 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section II. C&L
II. C&L No. of operators change in value change in %
A0 30 - -
A1 30 0 0,00
A2 30 0 0,00
A3 26 -4 -0,13
A4 26 0,00 0,00
Appendix E 151
Table E-7 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section III. Sleeve.
III. Sleeve No. of operators change in value change in %
A0 19 - -
A1 20 1 0,05
A2 20 0 0,00
A3 19 -1 -0,05
A4 19 0 0,00
Table E-8 Overview experiment A Number of operators in section IIIb. Sleeve Prep.
IIIb. Sleeve Prep. No. of operators change in value change in %
A0 1 - -
A1 1 0 0,00
A2 1 0 0,00
A3 1 0 0,00
A4 1 0 0,00

Table E-9 Overview experiment A number of operators in section IV. Assembly
No. of operators change in value change in%
A0 42 - -
A1 42 0 0,00
A2 42 0 0,00
A3 36 -6 -0,14
A4 36 0 0,00
Appendix E 152
E3. Number of operators per section
Table E-10 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section I.
Productiv-
ity per
worker
no. Of
workers
input
queue
Out-
put/worker
change in
value
change in
%
A0 31 712,16 22,97 - -
A1 32 925,81 28,93 5,96 0,26
A2 32 925,62 28,93 -0,01 0,00
A3 27 921,82 34,14 5,22 0,18
A4 27 921,92 34,15 0,00 0,00

Table E-11 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section II.
Productiv-
ity per
worker
No. Of
workers
Input
queue
Out-
put/worker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 30 809,96 27,00 - -
A1 30 810,02 27,00 0,00 0,00
A2 30 981,81 32,73 5,73 0,21
A3 26 981,02 37,73 5,00 0,15
A4 26 921,92 35,46 -2,27 -0,06

Table E-12 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section III.
Productiv-
ity /
worker
No. Of
workers
Input
queue
Out-
put/worker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 19 1436,08 75,58 - -
A1 20 1587,12 79,36 3,77 0,05
A2 20 1844,54 92,23 12,87 0,16
A3 19 1844,38 97,07 4,85 0,05
A4 19 1842,05 96,95 -0,12 0,00
Appendix E 153

Table E-13 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section IIIb.
Productivi
ty / worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Output/wo
rker
change in
value
change in
%
A0 1 712,12 712,12 - -
A1 1 762,43 762,43 50,31 0,07
A2 1 925,34 925,34 162,91 0,21
A3 1 921,94 921,94 -3,40 0,00
A4 1 921,84 921,84 -0,10 0,00

Table E-14 Overview experiment A Productivity of operators per output value in section IV.
Productiv-
ity /
worker
No. of
workers
Input
queue
Out-
put/worker
Change in
value
Change in
%
A0 42 712,15 16,96 - -
A1 42 762,37 18,15 1,20 0,07
A2 42 925,34 22,03 3,88 0,21
A3 36 921,91 25,61 3,58 0,16
A4 36 921,85 25,61 0,00 0,00
Appendix F 154
F. Appendix F
Overview experiment B
F1. List of operators and their assignments to servers
according to Layout of ISTCOMP

Table F-1 Assignment of operators to operations at ISTCOMP (part 1/2)
Number of Number of Number of Number of
O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

I-1 1 I-25 18 III-3-49
45,
49,
51
IV-13-73 66
I-2 1 I-26
19,
20
III-4-50
46,
53
IV-14-74
67,
68,
69
I-3 1 I-27
20,
21
III-5-51 47 IV-15-75 71
I-4 2 II-1-28
22,
27
III-6-52 48 IV-16-76 71
I-5 2 II-2-29
23,
24,
25,
31
III-7-53 49 IV-17-77 71
I-6 3 II-3-30
30,
31
III-8-54
50,
52
IV-18-78
72,
73
I-7 4 II-4-31 26 III-9-55 54 IV-19-79 74
I-8 4 II-5-32
28,
29
III-10-56 55 IV-20-80 75
I-9 5 II-6-33 32 III-11-57
56,
51
IV-21-81 75
I-10 6 II-7-34 33 III-12-58 56 IV-22-82 76
I-11 12 II-8-35 35 III-13-59 55 IV-23-83 77
I-12 13 II-9-36 36 III-14-60 57 IV-24-84 78
Appendix F 155
Table F-2 Assignment of operators to operations at ISTCOMP (part 22)
Number of Number of Number of Number of
O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

O
p
e
r
a
t
o
r

O
p
e
r
a
t
i
o
n

I-13 14 II-10-37 34 IV-1-61 58 IV-25-85 78
I-14 7, 15 II-11-38 37 IV-2-62 59 IV-26-86 78
I-15 16 II-12-39 38 IV-3-63 59 IV-27-87 79
I-16 16 II-13-40 39 IV-4-64 60 IV-28-88
80,
81
I-17 16 II-14-41 40 IV-5-65
61,
63
IV-29-89 82
I-18 16 II-15-42 40 IV-6-66 62 IV-30-90 83
I-19 17 II-16-43 41 IV-7-67 62 IV-31-91 84
I-20 8 II-17-44 41 IV-8-68 62 IV-32-92 83
I-21 9 II-18-45 42 IV-9-69 62 IV-33-93 85
I-22 10 II-19-46
42,
43
IV-10-70
64,
65
IV-34-94 85
I-23 11 III-1-47 44 IV-11-71 66 IV-35-95 85
I-24 18 III-2-48 44 IV-12-72 66 IV-36-96 85

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[34] ISTCOMP (2008): Figure Ladies jacket basic model.
[35] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Drawing of ladies jacket production line (sections I & II).
[36] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Advanced sketch of the production line (all sections).
[37] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Layout ladies jacket production line, work flow at
22.02.2008.
[38] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Layout ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008
(part1/2).
[39] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Area which is worked-on in section I. Body.
[40] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Parts which are worked on in section II.C&L.
[41] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Layout Ladies jacket production line, work flow at 22.02.2008
(part2/2).

[42] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Parts which are sub-assembled in section III.
[43] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Parts which are assembled in section IV.
[44] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Number of workers I.
[45] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Number of workers II.
[46] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Average age of the workers.
[47] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Average experience in this job.
[48] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Number of operations the operators are trained-in.
[49] R. MOSSER BARNES, Motion and Time Study - Design and Measurement of work, 7th edi-
tion, John Wiley & Sons Editorial, New York, 1980.
[50] 5 standard symbols determined by The American Society of Mechanical Engineers.
[51] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Work flow chart Ladies jacket production line, work flow at
22.02.2008.
22.02.2008 (part1/4).
22.02.2008 (part2/4).
22.02.2008 (part3/4).
22.02.2008 (part4/4).
[56] R. MOSSER BARNES (1980): Motion and Time Study - Design and Measurement of work, 7th
edition, John Wiley & Sons Editorial, New York.
[57]REFA Verband fr Arbeitsstudien und Betriebsorganisation E.V., Darmstadt. REFA-
Zeitaufnahmebogen Z2 fr Ablufe mit Wiederholungen , Beuth Verlag GmbH, Berlin und
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[58]REFA Verband fr Arbeitsstudien und Betriebsorganisation E.V., Darmstadt.
Ergnzungsbogen zu REFA-Zeitaufnahmebogen Z2 , Beuth Verlag GmbH, Berlin und Kln.
[59]REFA Verband fr Arbeitsstudien und Betriebsorganisation E.V., Darmstadt: Equation
Average of measured times.
[60]REFA Verband fr Arbeitsstudien und Betriebsorganisation E.V., Darmstadt: Equation
Standard time.
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[67] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Work element sharing.
[68] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Division of work element.
[69] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Assembly sequence.
[70] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Hierarchies at HB.
[71] HUGO BOSS, Izmir (2008): Equation Group efficiency.
[72] HUGO BOSS, Izmir (2008): Equation Group performance.
[73] HUGO BOSS, Izmir (2008): Equation Personal efficiency.
[74] HUGO BOSS, Izmir (2008): Equation Personal performance.
[75] HUGO BOSS, Izmir (2008): Equation Output volume according to HB.
76 Z.X. GUO, W.K. WONG, S.Y.S. LEUNG, J.T. FAN, J.T., S.F. CHAN (2007): Genetic
optimization of order scheduling with multiple uncertainties, Expert Systems
with Applications, published online doi:10.1016/j.eswa.2007.08.058.
77 W.K. WONG, S.Y.S. LEUNG, P.Y. MOK (2006): Developing a genetic optimisation approach to
balancing an apparel assembly line, International Journal of Advanced
Manufacturing Technology, Vol.28, pp.387-394.
78 B.L. SONG / W.K. WONG / J.T. FAN / S.F. CHAN (2006): A recursive operator allocation ap-
proach for assembly line-balancing optimization problem with the consideration of operator ef-
ficiency, Computers & Industrial Engineering, 51, p. 585-608.
79 W.K. WONG, S.Y.S. LEUNG, P.Y. MOK (2006): Developing a genetic optimisation approach to
balancing an apparel assembly line, International Journal of Advanced
Manufacturing Technology, Vol.28, pp.387-394.
80 K.C.C. CHAN / P.C.L. HUI / K.W: YEUNG / F.S.F. NG (1998): Handling the assembly line bal-
ancing problem in clothing industry using a generic algorithm, International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology, Vol. 10 No. 1, p.21-37.
81 C. BECKER / A. SCHOLL (2006): A SURVEY ON PROBLEMS AND METHODS IN GENERAL-
IZED Assembly Line Balancing, European Journal of Operational Research 168(3)
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facture by inductive learning, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 9.
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[83] Z.X. GUO, W.K. WONG, S.Y.S. LEUNG, J.T. FAN, J.T., S.F. CHAN (2007): Genetic
with Applications, published online doi:10.1016/j.eswa.2007.08.058.
[84] Z.X. GUO, W.K. WONG, S.Y.S. LEUNG, J.T. FAN, J.T., S.F. CHAN (2007),: Genetic
with Applications published online doi:10.1016/j.eswa.2007.08.058.
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facture by inductive learning, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 9.
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use when?, International Journal of production Economics, 111, 509-528.
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for Simple Assembly Line Balancing, European Journal of Operational Research
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91 W.K. WONG /C.K. KWONG / P.Y MOK, / W.H. IP (2006): Genetic Optimization of JIT
Operation Schedules for Fabric-cutting Process in Apparel Manufacture, Journal
of Intelligent Manufacturing 17(3), 341-354.
92 Z.X. GUO / W.K. WONG / S.Y. S. LEUNG / J.T. FAN / S.F. CHAN (2006): Mathematical Model
and Genetic optimization for the job shop scheduling problem in a mixed- and multi-product
assembly environment: A case study based on apparel industry, Computers & Industrial Engi-
neering, 50, p. 202-219.
93 S. G. DIMITRIADIS (2006): Assembly line balancing and group working: a heuristic procedure
for workers groups operating on the same product and workstation, Computers & Operations
Research, 33, p. 2757-2774.
94 Y.K.KIM / W.S. SONG / J. H. KIM (2007): A mathematical model and a generic algorithm for
two-sided assembly line balancing, Computers & Operations Research.
95 J. F. OKANE (2003): Simulation as enabler for organisational excellence, Measuring Business
Excellence, Vol. 7, No. 4, p. 12-19.
96 K.C.C. CHAN / P.C.L. HUI / K.W: YEUNG / F.S.F. NG (1998): Handling the assembly line bal-
ancing problem in clothing industry using a generic algorithm, International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology, Vol. 10 No. 1, p.21-37.

97 N.BOYSEN / M. FLIEDNER / A. SCHOLL (2007): A classification of assembly line balancing
problems, European Journal of Operational Research, 183, p. 674-693.
[98] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008), URL: http://www.incontrol.nl/?to=products (28.04.2008,
17:43).
[99] Enterprise Dynamics7, Tutorial ED7, Educational Single-User Licence, Incontrol simulation
software B.V., The Netherlands Training Basics.
[100] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008): Figure Logo of the simulation software Enterprise
Dynamics.
[101] A. E. RIZZOLI (2007): A Collection of Modelling and Simulation Resources on the Internet,
URL: http://www.idsia.ch/~andrea/simtools.html (28.04.2008, 18:17)
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11:58).
[103] W. B. NORDGREN (2001): Taylor enterprise dynamics, Winter Simulation Conference, Pro-
ceedings of the 33rd conference on Winter simulation, Arlington, Virginia, p.69 271.
[104] L. GOULD (unknown): Simulation: The Real Story, Gardner Publications Inc., URL:
http://www.autofieldguide.com/articles/010202.html (14.6.2008, 15:45).
[105] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008), URL: http://www.incontrol.nl (28.04.2008, 17:33).
[106] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008): Figure VR-simulation of a warehouse system and a
production line with the ED Logistic Suite.
[107] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008), URL: http://www.incontrol.nl/?to=features (28.04.2008,
17:50).
[108] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008), URL:
http://www.enterprisedynamics.com/?to=downloads (28.04.2008, 18:02).
[109] G.FOZZARD / J.SPRAGG / D.TYLER, 1995, Simulation of flow lines in clothing manufacture,
International Journal of Clothing , Science and Technology, Vol.8 No.4, pp.17-27, MCB Uni-
versity Press.
[111] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure The layout of the simulation model.
[112] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure The atoms source, queue, server and assembler.
[113] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Simulation model after the channels are connected.
[114] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Simulation model after the channels are connected (more
detailed).
[115] Stat:Fit, Stat:Fit Version 2 tutorials, Statistically Fit Program, Geer Mountain Software Corp.,
South Kent, 2001.
[116] Stat:Fit, Stat:Fit Version 2 tutorials, Statistically Fit Program, Geer Mountain Software Corp.,
South Kent, 2001.
[117] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Table Operations and their distributions (part 1/3).

[120] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Changing the atoms properties.
[121] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure After a test run of 90 hours the output volume is 7582 units.
[122] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure 3D Model View after inserting the atom VR building.
[123] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008): Figure Experimentation Wizard.
[124] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008): Figure Library Tree ED.
[125] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008): Figure Status Monitor.
[126] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008): Figure Monitor.
[127] Donald Craig (1996): Advantages of Simulation,
http://www.cs.mun.ca/~donald/msc/node6.html, Disadvantages of Simulation,
http://www.cs.mun.ca/~donald/msc/node7.html (20:53).
[130] THE FEDERATION OF EUROPEAN EMPLOYERS (2008): List of gross minimum wages,
FedEE Services Ltd 2008, UK, http://www.fedee.com/minwage.html, Last updated:
23.07.2008, (31.07.2008, 16:49).
[131] ISTCOMP (2008): Table Machinery at ISTCOMP.
[132] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Machinery at ISTCOMP within the sections I. Body and II.
C&L.
[133] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Machinery at ISTCOMP within the sections III. Sleeve and
IV. Assembly.
[134] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008), URL: http://www.incontrol.nl/?to=requirements
(28.04.2008, 18:25).
[135] Incontrol Enterprise Dynamics (2008), URL: http://www.incontrol.nl/?to=requirements,
28.04.2008, 18:25).
[136] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Enterprise Dynamics simulation model layout.
[137] L. RAMBAUSEK (2008): Figure Enterprise Dynamics simulation model layout with connec-
tions.

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Author: Lina Rambausek, Email: Lina.Rambausek@gmx.de. Contact also through: Universiteit

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