Note: These instructions are provided

only as a guide to building a portable box

stand. Anyone building this or any other
type of structure assumes all liability for
their own construction. If you do not feel
confident building this structure, work with
a local building expert to assist you. When
using power tools, always follow the safety
instructions provided by the manufacturer.

How to Build a
PORTABLE BOX STAND

N othing beats the comfort of a well-built box stand. These popular

stands provide the hunter protection from the elements as well
as concealment. However, traditional box stands are not constructed to
make tear down and moving the stand easy.
The stand aired on Get in the Game is admittedly much larger than
your typical box stand. You can use our basic instructions to build
your own box stand. If you want to build a smaller stand simply scale
down the dimensions presented here.

THE BASE (8’ wide x 6’ deep x 8’ high)

The base is the only part of the project where light-weight materials are not used. After all,
2
the base must be strong and stable.
Materials:
• (4) 8-foot pressure treated 6”x6”
These form the legs for the stand. You can substitute with 8-foot pressure treated
4”x4” if building a smaller stand. However, do not use legs taller than 8 feet. The
higher the stand the less stable the structure will be, especially in high winds.
Remember that building a higher box stand will not improve your hunting! 8’

• (4) 8’ pressure treated 2”x8” 2x8

• (8) 5” long lag bolts

• (12) 8’ pressure treated 2”x4”
6x6 6x6
• (3) 8’ pressure treated 2”x6”
Instructions: 4
8’ 2x
1. Start by laying out the two 8’ sides. Lay the two 6”x6”s flat on the floor, parallel
to each other 7’9” apart (outside measurement). This will allow for your 2”x8” to
have a 1.5” overhang on each side.
2. Lay a 2”x8” (called the “band”) across the top of the 6”x6” and pre-drill a hole
for a lag bolt. Make sure 1.5” of 2”x8” extends beyond the 6”x6”. The top of the
2x4
2”x8” should be flush with top of the 6”x6”. Screw one lag bolt through the hole in
the 2”x8” into the 6”x6”. Use four wood decking screws around each lag bolt for 7’9’’ 1’

extra stability. Repeat on the other side.

3. Lay a 2”x4” across the bottom, 1’ off the other end of the 6”x6” and use wood decking screws 3
to attach the 2”x4” to the 6”x6”s. Add in cross bracing in
6 the same manner.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 to build a second frame for the base.
5. Now stand up both sides of base so the 2”x8”s are on
the outside and at the top. Make sure you have some
help to keep the sides up. Position the sides
8’ 6’ apart and parallel to each other.
6. Attach a pressure treated 2”x8” (cut to 5’9” long) to the
6”x6” and attach with lag bolts and screws to complete the band on one side. Attach
the 2”x4” across the bottom of each 6-foot side using deck screws and then attach
cross bracing. Using cross bracing is critical to ensure the structure is rigid.
6’
8’ Repeat this for both of the 6’ sides. You should now have a platform that is 6’ by 8’.
 6. Now rip a 7’ long 2”x4” down the middle to create
6 your ledger strip. This ledger strip24”
is attached to the
inside of your band on the 8-foot side. This will provide
5 1/2”
added support for the joists that will support your
floor system. Screw in your ledger strip so the top
of the ledger strip is 51⁄2” from the top of your band.
Remember, a 2”x6” is actually 1½”x5½”. This will ensure
that when you place your floor joists, the joists will be
flush with the top of the band.
7. Cut three 2”x6” joists to 5’ 9” and place on the ledger
strip on 24” centers. Use 3” wood screws to attach joists
24”
to the outside bands. Do not attach the center joist until
you have placed your decking. This will help you better
align the edge of the flooring so each of the two sheets
overlaps the center of the joist. Remember, nothing is
ever perfectly square so minor
adjusts are almost
always necessary. 4’

7 4’ 6’ 8

8. Cut two ¾” pressure treated 4’x8’ sheets down to two 4’x6’ sections.
Attach sheets to base using deck screws. Place screws 6” apart.

You should now have a base that is strong and rigid.

The base should not rock back and forth. If it does,
add additional bracing to remove any movement in
your base. Constructing a strong base is critical.

BUILDING THE SIDES

The lightweight construction materials for the walls of the box stand is what
allows for its portability. You will need to locate aluminum materials.
We used two different types of aluminum products. Most of the project was completed using 1”x2” aluminum channel.
We also used 2”x2” aluminum tubing on the four corners and the shooting rail. Both of these products are used in
the construction of sun rooms and screened porches. To find suppliers of these products on the web, you can enter
“aluminum building materials for patio room” into your computer’s search engine. Or, you can contact a local contractor
and see if you can purchase left-over materials or new materials.
Building the sides is the easiest part of the project. You will need a circular saw, or better yet, a miter saw, with a blade
designed for cutting aluminum. Your local hardware store will have these blades available.
Materials
• (100 feet) 1”x2” aluminum channel
• (32 feet) 2”x2” aluminum tubing
• (50) aluminum “L” brackets
• (10 pounds) sheet metal screws (5⁄8”x 1⁄4”)
• (8) 4’x8’ 1⁄8”sheets luan plywood
The combination of thin luan and aluminum framing results in a very rigid, strong and lightweight wall. We assembled
each of the four walls, including the door, in the shop. Once each wall was constructed it was a simple matter of
attaching the walls to the platform once in the field.
To allow for a pitch to our roof, we built the front wall slightly taller (6’) than the rear wall (5’8”). This way, the rain drains
off the rear of the structure instead of dripping down on your gun barrel.
Instructions
ROOF
1. Start by constructing the front wall
(8’ side). Cut 3 sticks of the 1”x2” CHANNEL
channel and 1 stick of the 2”x2” tubing FRONT FACES DOWN
to a length of 7’8”. One 1”x2” channel
stick will run parallel to the floor, the
2”x2” tubing stick is positioned 36”
8’
above and parallel to the bottom
channel. This second stick becomes
the bottom of your shooting rail. The 7’8’’
next stick of 1”2” channel is placed 12” 2’
above your shooting rail (becomes the
top of your window) and finally the last
stick of 1”x2” channel is placed at the
top of your wall (in front wall, this is 6’
from the bottom of the wall). SHOOTING WINDOW 1’ 6’
Note: You can make the shooting
window taller by raising the third
stick of aluminum channel.
2. Next, cut two 2”x2” aluminum sticks
3’
to 6’ high. These will be the ends of
the wall. Use the “L” brackets to attach 2’ 2’ 2’ 2’
the open-back channel sticks to the
2”x2” tubing sticks.
Note: the aluminum sticks should
be placed so the 1” side of the stick
is against the wall (in other words,
you will be 2” wide).
2x2 1x2
Make sure that the channel stick has
the flat surface toward the floor on the CHANNEL
bottom, and flat surface facing up on FACES UP
the top rail that attaches to the roof.
(see insets) FLOOR

3. Cut three pieces of channel to 3’,

and attach these on 2’ centers to the
bottom channel at the floor and to
the bottom of the shooting rail. This
will allow for additional strength when
resting your gun on the rail.
24”x96”
4. Now that you have assembled this
wall skeleton, you are ready to cut
and attach the luan to the sides. We
recommend that you paint your luan
using enamel paint (we used green)
before cutting to size. Cut the first
sheet to 36”x96”. This will cover the
wall from the floor to the bottom of
the shooting rail. Cut another sheet
24”x96” and attach to the top of the
wall. Use sheet-metal screws to attach 36”x96”
the luan to the aluminum sticks. Attach
screws every 6” to add strength and
keep the walls from rattling against the
tubing in the wind.
 The process for the remaining walls is essentially the same
as the front wall. Refer to the attached drawings for specific
dimensions. Again, if you want to build a smaller structure,
you can sketch out your own dimensions.

BACK

8’ 5’8”
8’

7’8’’
7’8’’ 3’
1’8”
2’ 2’
1’8”

1’ 5’ 5’8”

1’ DOOR
6’ 5’8” DOOR 1’ 6’

3’

4’8”

3’ 3’

2’ 2’ 2’ 1’11” 1’11” 1’11”

2x2 1x2

2x2 1x2 1x2

SIDES

5’8”

2’
1’8”
24”x96”
DOOR

SHOOTING FILLER PANEL

5’8” 6’
WINDOW 1’

3’

36”x96”
1’11” 1’11” 1’11”

1x2
THE ROOF
There are several options for the roof. We used four sheets of tin (4’x10’) ROOFING ROOF
and allowed for overhang on all four sides. This overhang provided additional SCREW MATERIAL
protection to the structure from rain. We used roofing screws with rubber
washers (designed for this type of application) to attach the sheets.
There are a variety of roofing materials on the market that you can use. Many
of the fiberglass and vinyl roofs are even lighter than the tin we used. Attach the 1”x4”
roofing to two 1”x4” pressure treated boards. Each board will sit on top of and
parallel to the front and back wall. 1”x2”
ALUMINUM
CHANNEL
FRONT
ASSEMBLY IN THE FIELD WALL
WOOD SCREW
At this point it’s time to load everything on a trailer and transport to your location (FINAL STEP TO
ATTACHING ROOF)
in the field. Once you reach your location it’s a simple matter of unloading
everything and making sure the base is level and stable. Don’t guess—use a
level to make sure the base is level before you assemble the sides and roof.
Although you only need two people to set up the structure, it is much safer if you have three of four people on hand to
stabilize ladders and hand up materials.
1. Start by positioning the front wall and use 2” deck screws to screw down through the 1”x2” tubing into the top of the
band. Use a screw every 12”.
2. Next, position a side wall and pilot drill a hole through the 1”x2” open-back channel on the side wall into the 2”x2” tubing
on the front and real wall. Drill in a sheet metal screw to attach the walls to each other. Use one screw every 12”.
3. Finally, and this is where you need as much help as possible, lift the roof onto the structure. Use at least two or even
four people in the stand and two to four people below to lift the roof on top of the walls. Use ½” wood screws to attach the
top open-back channel to the 1”x4”. (see above illustration)

1 2

LUAN 1”x2” ALUMINUM

PILOT DRILLED
CHANNEL
HOLES EVERY 12”

SHEET METAL
SCREW
FLOOR

2”X8”
BAND

Once this is complete you can

attach your door and windows
if you decide to use windows.
Use your imagination!