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Te c h n i q u e C o l l e c t i o n

A Publication of August Home Publishing


Finishing Essentials

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One of the keys to a top-notch fnish is to start with a well-prepared
canvas. I stick to a simple routine that guarantees a great result.
A high-quality finish starts before
you ever open a can of stain or
varnish. Ive found that the simple
surface preparation steps leading up
to finishing can often make or break
the end result. While its tempting to
rush the process, a little patience up
front can make the finishing go easier
and turn out better.
The goal is easy to define. You
want to end up with a smooth,
clean, consistent surface on which
to apply a finish. To achieve this, I
go through a systematic, four-step
surface prep routine.
First, I search for and remove any
glue spots or squeezeout. Next, I take
care of any surface blemishes that
might be noticeable once the finish is
applied. Third, I give the entire proj-
ect a final, pre-finish sanding. Finally,
I clean the surface to remove sanding
dust and any other debris that might
interfere with a smooth finish.
1
NO GLUE. Glue spots and squeezeout
are the bane of finishing. Glue
on the surface blocks penetration
of a stain or finish and creates an
unsightly off-color blotch.
The best cure for glue blotches is
prevention, of course. But this isnt
always foolproof. To be absolutely
certain theres no glue left on the
surface, you need to perform a final
inspection and removal.
Start with a thorough examination
of the most likely places at or near
the joints. Large beads of squeezeout
are easy to find, but thin smears are
harder to see. One way to make them
stand out is to wipe the surface with
mineral spirits (lower right photo).
Once I find glue, I go about remov-
ing it in a couple of different ways
depending on the location. On flat
surfaces, you can scrape or sand it
off. If the glue is in the corner, I start
by carefully paring away as much as
possible with a chisel. Then I use a
damp rag to soften and scrub away
the rest. (Ordinary PVA glue can
be removed with water and a little
elbow grease.)
2
FIXING BLEMISHES. Visible dents,
dings, or minor chips are almost
inevitable. Sometimes a blemish is
simply a small defect in the wood
that you werent able to work around.
But there are ways to fix them.
Depending on the type of blemish,
I approach it with one of two fixes.
Shallow dents can usually be lifted
with steam, as shown in the box
on the bottom of page 2. The steam
causes the wood fibers to swell, level-
ing the depression.
If wood is missing or the surface
has a natural defect, youll have to
repair it with filler. There are a lot
of different formulations of wood
filler. The two most practical for fill-
ing minor dings are the pre-mixed
water-based and solvent-based
types. Both come in a variety of
4 easy steps
for perfect
Surface
Prep
fnishing room
{ You can search for glue smears
by wiping the surface with
mineral spirits. The glue blocks
absorption and stands out.
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colors and dry quickly to a hard sur-
face that can be sanded. Theyll also
accept stain to a degree.
I generally choose a color thats a
shade darker than the wood in the
project. The filler tends to dry lighter
than what you see in the can. The flat
tip of a screwdriver makes a precise
applicator. Try to limit the amount
of filler you spread to the surround-
ing area. It can fill the pores of the
wood and show up once the finish
is applied. When the filler is thor-
oughly dry (check it with a finger-
nail), you can easily sand it flush
with the surface.
3
PRE-FINISH SANDING. When build-
ing a project, I sand parts and
assemblies all along the way as
Im working. But this doesnt mean
that once the project is complete, no
further sanding is necessary. Before
applying the stain or fnish, I go over
the entire project with a thorough
pre-finish sanding. The goal is to
create a consistent surface that will
accept the fnish evenly.
You may have scrubbed (with
water) or scraped away glue,
steamed out a dent, or filled a ding.
If these areas arent sanded, theyll
take a stain or finish differently than
the surrounding area. A good once
over with 180-grit sandpaper will
level the field.
At this stage, hand sanding is the
way to go. You have better control.
For large, open flat surfaces like a
chest or tabletop, I wrap the sandpa-
per around a padded sanding block.
For contoured or hard-to-reach cor-
ners, folded sandpaper works best,
as shown above.
Since many surfaces wont need
much attention, you can work
quickly. But try to be as thorough as
possible. Sand into the corners and
dont overlook the narrow edges.
Finally, gently ease any sharp edges.
Theyll hold the finish better and be
less prone to damage.
4
REMOVE THE DUST. Now its time for
cleanup. Before you lay on a
fnish, you need to remove all the
sanding dust and any other debris
that may contaminate it. For me,
this is a two-stage effort.
To begin, use compressed air or a
vacuum to remove the bulk of the
dust. A vacuum with a soft brush
is the tidier way to get the job done
and is my preferred method, as you
can see in the right photo. Com-
pressed air may be quicker. But
youll want to blow off the project
in a room separate from where
youll do the finishing.
A final dusting with a tack rag
completes the job, as shown in the
main photo on page 1. The tack
rag will pick up any remaining
dust or debris and leave you with
a clean surface ready for finish.
And when the finish goes on, the
wood will shine and your efforts
will be rewarded.
How-To: Remove Dents with Steam
{ Shallow surface dents can often be
lifted with steam. You start by wet-
ting the affected area.
{ Place a dampened cloth over the
surface and then apply a hot iron to
force steam into the wood fbers.
{ The steam created by the hot iron
causes the compressed fbers to
swell back into shape.
{ By applying fller using a
screwdriver, you avoid spillover
into the surrounding area.
{ A fnal, pre-fnish sanding ensures a smooth,
consistent surface. Here, hand sanding allows
you to get into all the nooks and crannies.
A vacuum
with a soft
brush will pull
the sanding
dust from the
surface pores.
}
Before
After
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Want a perfectly stained project
every time? Here are a few easy
ways to ensure success.
7
simple
tips and tricks for
Oil Stains
nishing room
If you apply an oil stain and the
color looks weak and washed out,
you might have overlooked an impor-
tant step. The pigments in oil stain are
simply suspended, not dissolved, in the
solvent. While the can sits on the shelf
unused, the pigments gradually settle
to the bottom to form a thick, gooey
layer (photo at right).
So after opening a can of stain, I never
make assumptions. The stain may look
like its ready to use, but I always give
it a good stirring to make certain. Youll
need to scrape all the pigments off the
bottom and stir until the mix looks
uniform. And then for good measure, I
close the can and shake it for a minute
or two. This ensures the stain will give
the color you had expected.
And when youre staining a large
project over a period of time, its a good
idea to stir the can periodically.
1
Stir it Up
I think every woodworkers
finishing nightmare is to apply stain
to a project, only to find some glue was
left on the surface and is spoiling the
job. The glue wont allow the stain to
penetrate into the wood, causing a light,
unstained area (right photo).
Unfortunately, this is an all too com-
mon occurrence, but the fix is easy. It
starts with some careful spot sanding
of the affected area. You want to sand
away the glue without creating a dip in
the surface. Carefully scraping away the
glue and then sanding is also an option.
Just be sure to sand up to the same grit
as the surrounding area.
Double-check to make sure all the glue
is cleaned off, then re-stain the sanded
area. You may need to go over the sur-
rounding area to even out the color.
2
Fix Glue Spots
Ask a woodworker what type of stain
he or she likes to use and most often
youll get the generic reply oil stain.
Oil or pigment stains have been the standard way to color
wood for years and for good reason. For the most
part, theyre easy to use and produce reliable results. You
simply wipe or brush the stain on the wood, let it soak
in for a few minutes and then wipe off the excess. Its
a simple way to obtain a very dramatic change in color.
But as anyone who has worked with oil stains knows,
the process isnt completely foolproof. And at this stage
of a project, if something
goes wrong, its a serious
downer. But for every problem you might encounter
with oil stains, theres almost always an easy way to
prevent it from occurring or to solve it afterward. Read
on to learn seven tips that will help you achieve the most
flawless stain for your projects. Youre sure to find one or
two tricks that youll use every time you stain.
4 WoodsmithPlans.com COL008 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
{tio Its easy to
avoid a blotchy
staining job.
Simply apply a
pre-stain wood
conditioner. When you apply an oil stain,
the pigments become trapped in the
pores on the surface. This is what
gives color to the wood.
But youll find that the stain isnt
choosy. Itll fill every nook and cranny
that it can find. Rough, crossgrain
sanding scratches or heavy swirls
from a power sander can attract
and soak up more stain than
the surrounding area. Once
the stain goes on, the scratches
pop right out and spoil the job
(lower right photo).
The key is to avoid this
problem with careful and thor-
ough sanding before staining.
But if its too late for that, you
can always sand away the
scratches and then re-stain.
The final tip is simple, but its
also one that I rely on frequently.
The problem is that its often a
challenge to find the perfect color of
stain for a project. The cherry stain
you tested is too red or the mahog-
any stain is too brown. For me, a
custom mix is the solution.
Stain colors of the same brand
can always be mixed to get an in
between color. And even different
brands of stain will often make a
compatible mix. With a little experi-
mentation, you can usually find the
color youre after. Just be sure to
keep track of the formula.
Its not uncommon, especially
when working on a large project, to
inadvertently leave a heavy streak or
smear of stain behind when clean-
ing off the excess, as you can see
in the photo below. Or you might
miss some stain thats lodged in a
hard-to-reach corner. Occasionally,
the problem is simply a matter of
applying stain to too much surface.
When you cant clean the excess off
fast enough, the stain starts to tack up
before you get to it.
Dont panic. This isnt a big deal.
In most cases, all you need to do to
remove the dried stain is re-wet
the area with fresh stain. The solvent
will soften the stain and allow you
to wipe down the area for an even,
streak-free color.
Some types of wood have a
well-deserved reputation for being
hard to stain. Cherry, maple, and
pine fall into this category. A coat of
oil stain usually leaves you with a
very blotchy appearance, caused by
uneven absorption of the stain (left
half of board below).
Here, the best cure is an ounce of
prevention. On blotch-prone woods,
its a good idea to apply a wood con-
ditioner before staining.
A conditioner is essentially just a
clear stain. It penetrates the surface
to partially seal the wood and limit
absorption of the stain to follow. This
gives you a much better shot at get-
ting a uniform look from your stain-
ing job, as demonstrated on the right
half of the board.
3
No Streaks or Smears
5
Avoid Blotching
6
Sand Away Scratches
7
The Perfect Color

4
Matching End Grain

The end grains on a project are a mixed blessing.
Their porous surfaces will soak up stain like a sponge.
The downside is that the end grain looks much darker
than the surrounding areas.
But theres an easy way to avoid this unwanted con-
trast. Before staining, take the time to sand the end grain
to a finer grit than the rest of the project. The smoother
end grain will trap fewer pigments. This way, the color
will end up matching the other parts of the piece better,
as you can see in the photo below.
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This easy-to-use product is the secret to achieving a rich, vibrant,
and natural-looking color on your next project.
great color with
Water-Based Dyes
fnishing room
} Water-based
dyes can be
mixed from
powders or
liquid
concentrates.
Staining is often a finishing step that
can make or break the appearance of
a project. And unfortunately theres
no magic bullet that will guarantee a
good outcome. But the more options
you have to choose from, the bet-
ter the chance of getting top-notch
results. This is why I keep water-
based dyes on hand.
WHY? A water-based dye can give
you a look thats very different from
a typical oil stain. Oil stains contain
large pigment particles that are sim-
ply suspended in a solvent. When
the stain is applied, the pig-
ments essentially sit on the
surface of the wood
to give it color.
However, this
can some-
times make
it diffcult to produce a deep, natural
color without obscuring the fgure
of the wood.
Water-based dyes work differ-
ently. The dye particles are very
small and actually go into solution
like sugar in water. This allows
the water to carry the dye particles
deep into the wood fibers. The
result is a look that is more trans-
parent and natural. You end up
with a very rich, penetrating color
that still lets the figure of the wood
show through.
As you can see in the photo
above, a dye can really pop the
beautiful figure of woods such as
curly or birdseye maple. And the
penetrating nature of a dye makes
it a good choice when a deep, dark
color is required.
MIX IT UP. Youll fnd dyes that are
formulated for use with different
solvents water, alcohol, and oil-
soluble types. However, because
of their slower drying time, water-
based dyes are by far the easiest to
use, especially on large surfaces
and projects.
A water-based dye can be mixed
from a powder or a liquid concen-
trate, as shown in the photo at left.
The dyes come in a wide range of
colors both wood tones and
pure colors. Two or more can be
combined to create virtually any
shade in the rainbow.
When you mix a powdered dye,
always use precise measurements
and keep track of the formula. This
way, you can easily match the same
color again, if necessary. For me, its
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easiest to simply measure by vol-
ume, but you can also weigh out
the powder.
Although the instructions on the
dye packet provide a recommended
concentration, this is just a loose
guideline. The base dye color can be
lightened or darkened by changing
the proportions of dye and water
(photo below). Coming up with the
desired color can involve experi-
mentation. Youll find that a small
amount of dye goes a long way.
The dye powder will dissolve
better in hot water. If any powder
doesnt dissolve, youll want to
strain it out before applying the dye
to the wood.
APPLICATION. Applying a water-
based dye requires a slightly dif-
ferent technique than that used
for an oil stain, but its just as easy.
With some practice, youll be an
expert in no time. The How-To box
below illustrates the basic routine.
The first thing you need to know
is that, as you might guess, a water-
based dye can raise the grain and
leave a fuzzy surface. The solution
to this drawback is to beat the dye to
the punch by pre-raising the grain.
Lightly dampen the surface, let it
dry, and then sand away the raised
fibers with 220-grit sandpaper.
A water-based dye can be
brushed, wiped, or sprayed on. I
like to use a foam brush (main photo
on page 5). You can apply the dye
quickly and its easier to get into all
the nooks and crannies.
When applying a water-based dye,
the goal is to avoid streaks and lap
marks that result from not maintain-
ing a wet edge. The relatively slow
drying rate helps you accomplish
this. The trick is to flood the surface
and keep it wet until the area youre
working on is completely coated.
Then you wipe off the excess dye
with a clean cloth. Youll get consis-
tent penetration and even color.
The color can be further darkened
by applying a second coat once the
first coat has dried thoroughly (30
minutes). Or, you can modify the
color by applying a different shade
over the first.
A TOPCOAT. Dyes dont have an oil
binder like pigment stains. So when
the water evaporates, the color will
appear drab. But once the topcoat is
applied, the rich look will return.
Water-based dyes are compatible
with most topcoats. The exception
is a water-based finish. Applying a
water-based topcoat can redissolve
the dye and leave a streaky mess. If
you want to use a water-based finish,
youll need to seal in the dye with a
coat of shellac or wiping varnish.
So the next time youre debat-
ing what the best color for a project
would be, consider using a dye. I
think youll be glad you did.
How-To: Apply a Water-Based Dye
{ Before applying the dye, its a
good idea to pre-raise the grain
by dampening the surface.
{ A thorough sanding with 220-grit
sandpaper will then prevent the
dye from raising the grain again.
{ Once an area is completely coated
and still wet, wipe the excess dye
from the surface.
{ The above photo shows how the color of the dye is dependent on
the concentration of the mixture. The left sample is
1
4 teaspoon to
8 ounces of water while the right sample uses a full teaspoon.
{ Applying a
topcoat brings
back the
vibrant color
you observed
while the dye
was still wet.
w
7 WoodsmithPlans.com COL008 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Once you know what each type of fnish brings to the table,
making the right choice becomes a whole lot easier.
Woodworkers are pretty lucky these
days. When it comes to deciding what
type of finish to apply to a project, we
have an abundance of options. The
catch is that each class of finish has
its own specific, and often very differ-
ent, attributes. So choosing the best
finish for a particular project involves
matching up your requirements with
the right finish. The key is having a
good understanding of what various
types of finishes have to offer.
CRITERIA. I judge each type of fnish
based on three basic criteria. First,
I consider what sort of appearance
the fnish will produce spe-
cifcally, color and sheen. Next,
you need to take into account the
method and ease of application.
Finally, you want to match the pro-
tection and durability offered to
the needs of the project. Ill offer a
brief summary of how the common
finishes available to woodworkers
stack up in each of these areas.
PURE OIL. Simply wiping on several
coats of a pure oil such as linseed
or tung oil rates very high in terms
of foolproof application. And the
amber color that the oil imparts can
be very desirable on many woods.
However, on the downside, a pure
oil fnish wont build a protective
flm, regardless of the number of
coats you apply. Youll get very
limited moisture and abrasion resis-
tance and little sheen. Its best saved
for light-duty projects that wont
see a lot of wear and tear.
OIL/VARNISH BLEND. A similar type of
fnish is referred to in the trade as
an oil/varnish blend. Its simply a
mixture of a pure oil, varnish, and
mineral spirits. Watco and Minwax
are a couple familiar brands. Its
equally easy to apply and produces
an appearance similar to a pure oil.
The bonus is that the varnish in the
blend will give you slightly better
protection. It will only build to a
thin, relatively soft flm with a mod-
erate sheen. So again, dont press
your luck. Limit use to projects that
will be treated kindly.
WIPING VARNISH. A wiping varnish is
merely a varnish thats been thinned
about 1 to 1 with mineral spirits.
The advantage is that the mixture
is fuid enough to be applied easily
with a rag. However, since a wiping
varnish dries faster than an oil, you
have to work at a good clip to wipe
on the fnish and then wipe off the
excess before it tacks up.
A wiping varnish adds a fair
amount of amber color to the wood
and will build a thin flm with a
noticeable sheen. I would rate the
protection offered by wiping var-
nish as middle of the road. Its a
relatively foolproof choice for many
moderate-wear projects.
a guide to choosing
The Best Finish
fnishing room
{ Wipe-on oil fnishes cant be beat for fool-
proof application and rich color. However,
dont count on a high degree of protection.
8 WoodsmithPlans.com COL008 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
SHELLAC. Pre-mixed shellac consists
of a natural resin dissolved in alco-
hol. Its extremely fast drying time
makes it a very appealing fnish. You
can brush, spray, or wipe on a coat
and it will be dry in a matter of min-
utes ready to sand and re-coat.
This is why shellac makes a very
useful sealer that can be applied
under almost any other fnish.
Available in both clear and amber,
shellac produces a warm color and
builds to a high sheen. Its moisture
and scratch resistance fall in the low
to middle range. I recommend shel-
lac for any classic project that wont
see much wear.
LACQUER. Lacquer consists of syn-
thetic resins dissolved in very
powerful solvents. Due to its fast
drying time, lacquer is most easily
applied with spray equipment. For
this reason, its the standard fnish on
most commercially produced furni-
ture. (There are slower-drying types
that can be brushed.) Youll fnd that
all lacquers have a strong odor.
Standard lacquers produce a film
with just a hint of amber color and a
pleasing sheen. You have your choice
in a range from matte to high gloss.
Youll get fairly reliable moisture pro-
tection and good overall durability.
If you have the means to apply it
successfully, lacquer is a great way
to finish any project.
WATER-BASED FINISH. Water-based fn-
ish is the new kid on the block. Its
formulated using many of the same
resins contained in other fnishes,
but with water as the carrier. So
the big selling point is the absence
of odor-producing and potentially
harmful solvents. It can be sprayed,
brushed or padded on, although
successfully brushing a water-based
fnish requires a practiced tech-
nique. The fast drying time is a big
plus while a tendency to raise the
grain is a drawback.
One common problem that people
have with a water-based finish is the
lifeless, water-clear film it produces.
The look can be pretty bland. An ini-
tial stain or sealer is often necessary
to add color to some woods.
From my experience, water-
based finishes hold up well to all
kinds of use and abuse. I wouldnt
be afraid to apply one to just about
any type of project.
VARNISH. If durability and all-
around protection are two things
at the top of your wish list, varnish
should be your choice. Although it
comes in several formulations or
resin types, polyurethane varnish
now dominates the market. It forms
a tough flm thats heat, moisture,
and scratch resistant.
The light amber color of a poly
varnish adds a warm look to the
wood. However, a thick poly var-
nish can take on a plastic look.
Varnishes are most commonly
applied with a brush. But be aware
that it takes an experienced hand
to do a good job. The slow drying
time is a negative. Only one coat a
day is the rule. And youll need to
control dust in the air. A poly var-
nish is my number one choice for
a high-traffic project such as a
kitchen or coffee table.
Choosing the perfect finish often
comes down to striking the right
balance. A finish can be that vital
component that your project needs.
It can create luster, provide protec-
tion from wear and tear, and prevent
the wood from drying out. The good
news is that when you decide what
you want from a finish, theres sure
to be a choice that will meet your
requirements, giving your project
that final touch.
{ A good-quality spray system makes
fast-drying lacquer or water-based
fnish a good option.
{ Polyurethane varnish forms a flm
that offers a very high degree of
moisture and abrasion resistance.
Finish Type Appearance Application Protection/Durability
Pure Oil Dark Amber Color, Dull Sheen Wipe-on, Slow Drying Low
Oil/ Varnish Mix Amber Color, Minor Film & Sheen Wipe-on Fairly Low
Wiping Varnish Light Amber Color, Builds Thin Film Wipe-on, Short Working Time Moderate
Shellac Warm Color, Good Build Versatile, Fast Drying Moderate
Lacquer Light Amber Color, Good Build Fast Drying, Generally Sprayed Good
Water-based Finish Adds No Color, Good Build Brush or Spray, Fast Drying Good
Varnish Light Amber Color, Very Good Build Brush, Slow Drying Excellent
Finish Comparison
9 WoodsmithPlans.com COL008 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Any discussion of oil fnishes usually begins with boiled
linseed oil. This fnish has been in use for hundreds of years.
Its main advantage is that it gives wood a warm, amber
color. Best of all, boiled linseed oil is inexpensive, and you
can fnd it in almost any hardware store or home center.
The oil is pressed from the seeds of the fax plant. And
it isnt boiled. In the past, the oil was heated so that it
would dry quicker and harder. Now, chemical drying
agents are added to speed the process. Linseed oil typi-
cally has a thicker consistency (like maple syrup) than
the other oils mentioned here.
Over time, boiled linseed oil will yellow, especially on
light woods like maple. So I fnd that you get the best
effect on medium- to dark-colored wood.
The warm, timeless, in-the-wood
look and silky feel of an oil fnish
makes it an attractive option for
woodworkers. A simple application
process thats nearly impossible to
mess up clinches the deal.
If all this sounds ideal to you,
take a look at these three types of
pure oil fnishes. Then youll learn
how to take advantage of their
unique benefts.
PRECAUTIONS. Keep in mind that
classic oil fnishes arent perfect.
Their main drawback is limited dura-
bility. An oil fnish doesnt form a flm,
so it doesnt stand up well on heavily
used surfaces like a dining table.
APPLICATION. An oil fnish may also
take longer to apply than some
other types. Oils, by nature, dry
slowly, so you can usually apply
only one coat per day. (In cool,
damp conditions, you may need to
wait two days.) I recommend four
to fve coats for the best look and
greatest protection.
In a nutshell, heres how to apply
an oil fnish. For the frst coat, food
the surface with oil and let it soak
in well. After 20-30 minutes, wipe
off any excess. For the following
coats, I rub in a thin layer of oil
and then wipe off the excess. When
its completely dry (about a day or
two), the project is ready.
Finally, a safety note: Make sure
to spread out oily rags and allow
them to dry fully to prevent spon-
taneous combustion.
These three simple, traditional finishes combine
great looks with easy application.
pure
Oil Finishes
PROS:
CONS:
Imparts warm amber color
on medium-colored wood
Enhances figure in wood
Inexpensive
Easy to find
Softest finish
Finish yellows over time
Not very moisture resistant
Can encourage mold &
mildew growth in damp
conditions
LINSEED OIL
10 WoodsmithPlans.com COL008 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Finishing products always seem to have a little mystery
surrounding them. Thats especially true with tung oil.
There are a few products on the market called Tung Oil
Finish or Tung Oil Varnish. The truth is they have little
or no actual tung oil in them. The easiest way to fnd true
tung oil is to look for it on the label. Several specialty mak-
ers produce 100% or Pure Tung Oil.
Tung oil does have some advantages. As you can see in
the photo at left, its lighter in color, so it works better on
lighter-toned wood than boiled linseed oil. It also doesnt
yellow with age, so its a better bet on light woods.
And even though it dries slowly, tung oil does dry harder
than linseed oil. That means you end up with a fnish that
builds up faster and is more water-resistant.
Of all the pure oil fnishes, walnut oil is the least common.
But I include it here because its a great natural fnish that
doesnt have any chemicals added to the oil. Some people
like it for kitchen items and toys.
There are two types of walnut oil fnish available. One
is simply pure walnut oil that you fnd at the grocery
store. Its usually used for making salad dressing. The
other type is the one shown here. This brand has been
heat-treated to speed the drying time and create a more
durable fnish. If you want to thin this fnish for greater
penetration, I recommend citrus oil.
When used on cutting boards, spoons, and bowls, youll
need to renew the fnish from time to time by simply wip-
ing on another coat. But also be aware of potential allergies
when using this type of oil on kitchenware.
{ Shellac Sealer. Wipe on
a couple coats of shellac to
seal the oil. Wait 10 to 15 min-
utes between each coat. Then
sand the surface smooth.
quick & easy
Hybrid
Finish
The traditional oil fnish I explained
earlier looks beautiful its appli-
cation is just time-consuming. Ive
come up with a way to get the look
of a pure oil fnish with more dura-
bility and in less time.
The process starts by applying a
thin coat of oil on the workpiece
just enough to give it a warm color.
Then wipe off any excess until the
surface feels dry. After letting the
oil set up for 30 minutes, you can
seal it and protect it with shellac
and varnish. Simply follow the
steps at right, buffng out the fnish
at the end for a satin sheen.
{ Varnish Top Coat. To add
sheen and increased durability,
wipe on two to three coats of a
fast-drying varnish. You can
add a coat every two hours.
{ Buff It Out. Use #0000
steel wool to rub out the
nish. This way, youll get
a satin sheen once the
last coat dries.
PROS:
CONS:
Dries harder than boiled
linseed oil
Creates thicker film in
fewer coats
Wont yellow lighter wood
Dries slowly
More expensive
Often gets confused with
wiping varnish
Lacks warm, amber tone of
boiled linseed oil
PROS:
CONS:
No chemical additives
Great for toys, food bowls,
and eating utensils
Lightest color
Most expensive
Hard to find
Not very durable
Needs to be renewed often
Some people are allergic to
walnuts
TUNG OIL
WALNUT OIL
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527
Lee Valley
800-871-8158
leevalley.com
Rockler
800-279-4441
rockler.com
W.D. Lockwood
866-293-8913
wdlockwood.com
Woodcraft
800-225-1153
woodcraft.com
Woodworkers
Supply
800-645-9292
woodworker.com
MAIL
ORDER
SOURCES
Project Sources
For clear, vivid colors, its hard to
beat water-based dyes. You can
fnd dyes in a wide variety of wood
tones as well as bright colors, in
both powder and liquid form. They
are sold through a number of the
woodworking retailers, such as
Lee Valley, Rockler, W.D. Lockwood,
Woodcraft, and Woodworkers Supply.
The easy-to-apply fnishes in the
Pure Oil Finishes article on page
9 included walnut oil (146022)
from Woodcraft, and tung oil (849-
216) from Woodworkers Supply.
11 WoodsmithPlans.com COL008 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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