DSHur - Numerical Estimation of Wave Force - Three Dim - Body

Numerical estimation of the wave forces acting on a three-
dimensional body on submerged breakwater

Dong-Soo Hur
1
, Norimi Mizutani
*
Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Nagoya University, Furo-cho, Chikusa-ku, Nagoya 464-8603, Japan
Received 1 May 2001; received in revised form 9 August 2002; accepted 19 September 2002
Abstract
Numerical models have been developed to estimate the wave forces acting on a three-dimensional body on a submerged
breakwater. These models combine the VOF model and porous body model to simulate the nonlinear wave deformation
including wave breaking and its interaction with a porous structure. One model is two-dimensional and is associated with
empirical wave force formulae, like the Morison equation. The other one is three-dimensional and does not require any
empirical formula or coefficients. Comparison of estimated and measured wave forces shows good agreement, both in two- and
three-dimensional model cases, and the present estimation methods are revealed to be powerful tools for estimation of wave
force acting on a three-dimensional body, even for breaking wave condition.
D 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
Keywords: Artificial rock; Submerged breakwater; Wave force; Morison equation; VOF method; Porous body model
1. Introduction
Submerged breakwater is one of suitable structures
which reduce the incoming wave energy to beaches
without affecting aesthetics of ocean view. This type
of structure has advantages also in water exchange
between the front and rear sides compared with sur-
face-piercing breakwater. It is a common technique to
install buoys at the corners of the submerged break-
water to warn the existence of the submerged structure
to the vessels. The buoy system is not only non-
friendly to the ocean view, but also its mooring system
may be damaged by the impulsive wave force caused
by wave breaking on the submerged structure.
Recently, alternative work installing artificial rock
has been adopted to indicate the location of the
submerged breakwater. One example is shown in
Photo 1.
To design an artificial rock or such a structure, the
wave forces acting on it should be estimated accu-
rately. Estimation of the wave forces, however, is very
difficult because of the varying water level whose
range under storm condition may be larger than the
water depth on the crown of submerged breakwater,
besides the complexities of rocks shape. Moreover,
wave breaking makes the wave force characteristics
more complicated. Thus, developing a numerical
model capable of estimating wave forces is necessary
for design purposes.
0378-3839/02/$ - see front matter D 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
PII: S0378- 3839( 02) 00128- X
* Corresponding author. Fax: +81-52-789-1665.
E-mail addresses: hur@civil.nagoya-u.ac.jp (D.-S. Hur),
mizutani@civil.nagoya-u.ac.jp (N. Mizutani).
1
Fax: +81-52-789-1656.
www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng
Coastal Engineering 47 (2003) 329345
As far as wave force estimation is concerned, the
Morison equation is widely used for a structure of
small size. Although the drag and inertia coefficients
are necessary in the application of Morison equation,
it is a very convenient technique of wave force
estimation and this technique has been used very
frequently. However, it has been pointed out that an
additional term should be considered in the Morison
equation when it is applied to estimate impulsive
wave force caused by wave breaking (e.g., Sawaragi,
1995). The artificial rock on a submerged breakwater
is exposed to wave breaking, and impulsive wave
forces should be considered. In this paper, the applic-
ability of the Morison equation in estimating breaking
wave forces acting on the artificial rock is investi-
gated, as well as the drag and inertia coefficients.
By the way, the drag and inertia coefficients
depend on structure shape. Shape of unit rock is
unique, and therefore the drag and inertia coefficients
should be estimated for each unit. The coefficients
may be determined by laboratory experiments; thus,
so many experiments should be carried out without
obtaining any general values. In this regard, it would
be very useful if the wave force can be estimated
directly by the numerical computation without any
empirical coefficients like drag and inertia coeffi-
cients.
The aim of this paper is to develop the numerical
estimation techniques for the wave force acting on a
three-dimensional body exposed to breaking waves
like artificial rocks located on submerged breakwaters.
First, the two-dimensional model has been developed
and it has been applied in estimation of wave forces
associated with the Morison equation; the applicabil-
ity of the Morison equation has been investigated at
the same time. Then, the numerical model has been
developed to a three-dimensional model to compute
the wave force by integrating directly the pressure on
the structure surface.
2. Numerical wave tank
2.1. Governing equations
In this study, wave breaking is a very important
phenomenon and the numerical model is required to
simulate wave breaking and wave deformation after
wave breaking. Kawasaki (1999) proposed a numer-
ical model to simulate wave deformation including
wave breaking based on the SOLA-VOF method,
which was originally developed by Hirt and Nichols
(1981). He developed this method to include the wave
generation source method and the added dissipation
zone method so that the characteristics of wave
breaking due to a submerged breakwater and post-
breaking wave deformation can be simulated without
the effects of reflected waves from both ends of
computational domain and wave generation boundary.
He investigated wave deformation due to an imper-
meable structure. In this study, wave deformation on
the permeable submerged structure is examined mak-
ing use of the porous body model (Sakakiyama and
Kajima, 1992) to express the governing equations of
fluid motion.
Assuming a viscous and incompressible fluid, the
fluid motion is governed by the modified continuity
equation, Eq. (1), and modified Navier Stokes equa-
tions, Eqs. (2) (4). The free surface is governed by
Eq. (5) in terms of VOF function, F, which represents
Photo 1. Artificial rocks as signs of submerged breakwater (Seihama beach in Fukui Prefecture, Japan).
D.-S. Hur, N. Mizutani / Coastal Engineering 47 (2003) 329345 330
the rate of volume in a cell occupied by the fluid to the
whole volume of the cell.
Bc
x
u
Bx

Bc
y
v
By

Bc
z
w
Bz
q* 1
c
v
Bu
Bt
c
x
u
Bu
Bx
c
y
v
Bu
By
c
z
w
Bu
Bz
c
v
1
q
Bp
Bx
M
x
R
x

1
q
Bc
x
s
xx
Bx
Bc
y
s
yx
By
Bc
z
s
zx
Bz
_ _
2
c
v
Bv
Bt
c
x
u
Bv
Bx
c
y
v
Bv
By
c
z
w
Bv
Bz
c
v
1
q
Bp
By
M
y
R
y

1
q
Bc
x
s
xy
Bx
Bc
y
s
yy
Bx
Bc
z
s
zy
Bz
_ _
2m
3
Bq*
By
3
c
v
Bw
Bt
c
x
u
Bw
Bx
c
y
v
Bw
By
c
z
w
Bw
Bz
c
v
1
q
Bp
Bz
c
v
g M
z
R
z

1
q
Bc
x
s
xz
Bx

Bc
y
s
yz
By

Bc
z
s
zz
Bz
_ _
2m
3
Bq*
Bz
bw
4
Bc
v
F
Bt

Bc
x
Fu
Bx

Bc
y
Fv
By

Bc
z
Fw
Bz
Fq
*
5
q*
qy; z; t=Dx
S
: x x
S
0 : x p x
S
_
_
_
6
where u, v and w are the velocity components in x-, y-
and z-direction, respectively. q* is the source term to
generate waves with flux density q assigned only at
source position (x =x
S
), Dx
S
is the width in x-direction
of the mesh including x = x
S
, t is the time, g is the
gravitational acceleration, q is the fluid density, p is
the pressure and b is the wave dissipation factor which
equals 0 except for the added dissipation zone. c
v
is
the volume porosity, whereas c
x
, c
y
and c
z
are the
components of surface porosity in x-, y- and z-direc-
tion, respectively, s is the viscous stress acting on the
surface of the control volume and m is the coefficient
of kinematic viscosity.
As suggested by Brorsen and Larsen (1987), the
flux density of wave generation source q is gradually
intensified for initial three wave periods from the start
of computation for stable wave generation and is
given in Eq. (7).
qy; z; t
f1 exp2t=T
i
g2U
0
g
0
h=g
S
h : t=T
1=3
V3
2U
0
g
0
h=g
S
h : t=T
1=3
> 3
_
_
7
where t is the time from the start of computation, T
i
the
incident wave period, h the still water depth and g
S
is
the water surface elevation at the source position. U
0
and g
0
are the time variations of velocity in x-direction
and water surface based on third-order Stokes wave
theory, respectively. The coefficient 2 of U
0
accounts for two waves propagating both to the left
and right sides of the source. Vertically integrated
quantity of q is corrected by (g
0
+h)/(g
S
+ h) to have
the same amount as in the no reflection case (Ohyama
and Nadaoka, 1991).
M
x
, M
y
and M
z
in Eqs. (2) (4) are the inertia
forces, and R
x
, R
y
and R
z
are the drag forces. These
forces are modeled as follows (Sakakiyama and
Kajima, 1992):
M
x
1 c
v
C
M
Du
Dt
1 c
v
C
M
Bu
Bt
u
Bu
Bx
v
Bu
By
w
Bu
Bz
_ _
8
M
y
1 c
v
C
M
Dv
Dt
1 c
v
C
M
Bv
Bt
u
Bv
Bx
v
Bv
By
w
Bv
Bz
_ _
9
M
z
1 c
v
C
M
Dw
Dt
1 c
v
C
M
Bw
Bt
u
Bw
Bx
v
Bw
By
w
Bw
Bz
_ _
10
R
x

1
2Dx
C
D
1 c
x
u
u
2
v
2
w
2
_
11
R
y

1
2Dy
C
D
1 c
y
v
u
2
v
2
w
2
_
12
R
z

1
2Dz
C
D
1 c
z
w
u
2
v
2
w
2
_
13
where C
M
and C
D
are the inertia and drag coefficients,
respectively.
In this study, two- and three-dimensional numerical
calculations are conducted. The numerical calculation
is carried out using the finite difference method. A
staggered mesh is used for the computational discre-
tization as displayed in Fig. 1 for three-dimensional
computation. Fig. 2 shows the wave tank used in the
three-dimensional numerical simulation. In this figure,
B, R and h
t
indicate, respectively, crest width, water
depth on the crown, and water depth at the toe. In the
three-dimensional numerical simulation, half of the
whole region is taken into account because the wave
deformation phenomenon in laboratory experiments
was almost symmetrical to the centerline of the
structure (see Fig. 3) installed on the submerged
breakwater.
2.2. Boundary conditions
Two free surface boundary conditions, i.e. normal
and tangential stress conditions, are used to carry out
the time-marching scheme of the free surface motion.
The normal stress condition is imposed as a boundary
condition for the pressure. The pressure points defined
in the center of cell generally differ from actual loca-
tions on the free surface. Therefore, the pressure in the
center of surface cell is evaluated using linear inter-
polation or extrapolation between the pressure on the
free surface and the pressure of the adjacent fluid cell.
The tangential boundary condition is imposed by
assuming the same velocities outside the fluid domain
as those of fluid domain (zero gradient boundary
condition on the free surface). Furthermore, the veloc-
ities on the interfaces between surface and empty cells
Fig. 1. Staggered mesh.
are determined in such a way to satisfy the continuity
equation.
An added dissipation zone method (Hinatsu,
1992) is applied to the open boundary, which is
associated with the no-gradient boundary condition
on the outer edge. Due to the coarse grids and the
fictitious damping forces based on the Stokes resist-
ance law, the waves are damped by numerical dis-
sipation effects. As shown in Eq. (4), the wave
dissipation factor (b) is considered in only the z-
direction to avoid the velocity damping in the uni-
form horizontal flow.
Fig. 2. Concept of numerical wave tank.
Fig. 3. Model structures used in experiments.
In order to treat impermeable slope (sloping bot-
tom), the following boundary conditions are employed:
Bu
s
B
n
0 14
u
n
0 15
where n is the coordinate in the normal direction to the
impermeable slope, u
n
the velocity component in this
direction and u
s
the velocity component along the
slope. Details of these boundary conditions can be
found in Petit et al. (1994).
In the two-dimensional analysis, the wave defor-
mation and resulting velocity field are computed
because the wave force formula like Morison equation
is employed for the estimation of the wave force.
Thus, structure on the submerged breakwater is not
considered. In the three-dimensional analysis, how-
ever, existence of the structure is considered and the
pressure on the structure is analyzed. On the solid
boundary like a surface of structure, impermeable
condition for normal motion and free slip condition
for tangential motion are imposed.
In the computation, the stability of the calculation,
which is related to convergence of the numerical
solution, is very important. In this study, the Courant
condition (Eq. (16)) and a diffusive limit condition (Eq.
(17)) are imposed to determine the time interval Dt.
Dt < e min
Dx
AuA
;
Dy
AvA
;
Dz
AwA
_ _
16
vDt < 0:5
1
1=Dx
2
1=Dy
2
1=Dz
2
_ _
17
where e is the weighting coefficient, which was chosen
as e = 0.4 in most cases.
2.3. Numerical implementation
In the computation, the velocity components u, v
and w, and the pressure p at the next time step are
calculated using the SOLA scheme. Then, using the
new calculated velocity components, the new free
surface configuration is computed with the advection
equation of VOF function F (Eq. (5)), which is solved
by using the donor acceptor method (Hirt and Nich-
ols, 1981). The time derivative is discretized by the
forward time difference method. The central differ-
ence method is used to discretize the pressure gradient
terms and stress gradient terms. The combination of
central difference method and upwind method is
employed to discretize the convection terms as
c
x
u
Bu
Bx
_ _
i;j;k
c
x
u
i;j;k
Dx
a
Dx
i
Bu
Bx
_ _
i1=2;j;k
_
Dx
i1
Bu
Bx
_ _
i1=2;j;k
a signu
i;j;k
Dx
i1
Bu
Bx
_ _
i1=2;j;k
_
Dx
i
Bu
Bx
_ _
i1=2;j;k
__
18
where
Dx
a
Dx
i
Dx
i1
a signu
i;j;k
Dx
i1
Dx
i
19
Here, a is the weighting parameter between the central
difference method and upwind method. Lin and Liu
(1998) and Bradford (2000) used a = 0.3 to avoid
computing unstable solutions, but at the expense of
reduced computational accuracy. In the present study,
weighting parameter a is set to 0.5. Discretizations with
a uniform mesh system Dx
i
= 2 cm and Dz
k
= 1 cm are
used in two-dimensional computation. In three-dimen-
sional computation, mesh sizes are chosen as Dx
i
= 2
cm, Dy
j
= 2 cm and Dz
k
= 1 cm.
3. Laboratory experiments
Experiments were conducted using a two-dimen-
sional wave tank (30-m length, 0.7-m width, 0.9-m
depth). In the wave tank, wooden impermeable slope
(1/30) was installed and submerged breakwater was
constructed with gravels of D
50
= 2 cm, where D
50
is
median grain size. Water depth in front of the wave
generator was set as h = 60 cm. Water depth at the toe
of the breakwater h
t
was set as 10 and 20 cm;
however, results for h
t
= 20 cm case are mainly pre-
sented in this paper because little difference between
the results for h
t
= 10 and 20 cm has been confirmed.
The offshore slope of the breakwater is S = 1/3. The
crown width and water depth on the crown were kept
constant as B= 100 cm and R= 4 cm, respectively.
In this study, three kinds of three-dimensional body
(model structure) were employed as illustrated in Fig.
3. Each body was attached on the wave force meter
which was fixed on the wave tank, keeping a small
gap of 2 mm over the submerged breakwater. The
wave forces on it were measured at seven locations on
the submerged breakwater (x = 7, 17, 27, 37, 52, 72
and 92 cm, where x is distance of model structure
from the leading crown edge).
Waves generated in the experiments were all regular
ones whoseperiods (T
i
) were1.0, 1.4and2.0s. Thewave
heights (H
i
) were adjusted so that the following four
typical wave breaking conditions could be obtained.
(A) Waves do not break or waves break after passing
over the model structure.
(B) Waves break at the center of model structure.
(C) Waves break just in front of the model structure,
which causes impulsive wave force.
(D) Waves break offshore of the model structure and
post-breaking waves attack.
In each experimental run, the wave forces in x- and
z-direction, F
x
and F
z
, were measured. Water particle
velocities in x- and z-direction, u and w, at the locations
of front face and center of the model structure were
measured with the electromagnetic current meters.
Water surface elevations were also measured at the
center of the model structure and the front of wave
generator with the capacitance-type wave gages. The
velocity was measured 1 cm above the crown to avoid
the emergence of sensors. Discrete values at sampling
frequency of 2 kHz of these measured time variations
were stored in PC and used in analysis. The zero-
downcrossing method was employed to determine
individual waves for wave-by-wave analysis.
4. Results and discussions
4.1. Wave height and mean water level
Fig. 4 shows variations of computed wave height
and mean water level along the wave tank in the
absence of the model structure, together with exper-
imental values, where H
i
and L
i
are the incident wave
height and length, respectively, in which L
i
is eval-
uated in front of the wave generator (h = 60 cm). In the
offshore side of the breakwater, the partial standing
wave field is formed and loops and nodes appear
periodically. The wave height attains its maximum in
the vicinity of the leading crown edge. Then, it
decreases because of the energy loss due to wave
breaking and flow resistance inside the permeable
breakwater, which is similar to the results obtained
by Rojanakamthorn et al. (1989) and Losada et al.
(1996) for the nonbreaking wave field. The mean
water level goes down as the wave approaches toward
the breakwater. After wave breaks over the breakwater,
mean water level goes up above the still water level.
The behavior of the mean water level shown in the
figure coincides with the characteristics of the wave
set-down and set-up in the surf zone. The computed
results show good agreement with the experimental
ones, and it can be regarded that the present numerical
simulation is able to reproduce well the wave field near
the submerged breakwater. The comparison of the
velocity is also shown in the latter part of this paper.
4.2. Wave force formula
For the estimation of the wave force acting on a
structure located on the submerged breakwater, it is
important to evaluate the time variation of wave force.
Fig. 4. Variations of the wave height and mean water level.
On the submerged breakwater, wave breaking occurs
and impulsive wave force is expected to act on the
structure. An additional term to express the impulsive
wave force due to wave slamming is proposed by
some researchers to apply the Morison equation to
impulsive force. In this study, however, it is intended
to modify the Morison equation to express the impul-
sive wave force without adding any terms correspond-
ing to wave breaking.
First, the effect of varying projection area and
under water volume are expressed as the area and
volume under the water level g measured at the center
of the structure. Because the shape of the structure is
given, these values can be obtained as a function of
Fig. 5. Comparison between calculated wave forces by Morison equation and measured wave force for truncated pyramid.
Fig. 6. Time variations of velocity, acceleration and wave force.
the water level g and they are expressed as A(g) and
V(g). Substitution of these values into the Morison
equation yields the following equations, adding the
term corresponding to the buoyant force to F
z
.
F
x

1
2
C
Dx
qAguAuA C
Mx
qVg u 20
F
z

1
2
C
Dz
qA
Z
wAwA C
Mz
qVg w
qgVg V0 21
where C
Dx
and C
Dz
are the drag coefficients, C
Mx
and
C
Mz
are the inertia coefficients, V(0) is the under
water volume at the still water condition, g is the
water level at the center of the structure and A
Z
is the
bottom area of the structure.
The ith value of the calculated wave force, F
Cx
i
, is
obtained by substituting the ith velocity, u
i
, acceler-
ation, u
i
, the projection area, A(g
i
), and volume, V(g
i
),
under the varying water level g
i
at the center of the
structure into Eq. (20):
F
Cx
i
C
Dx
f
Dx
i
C
Mx
f
Ix
i
22
Fig. 7. Variations of drag and inertia coefficients with KC number for the case that varying water surface level is considered in Morison equation
(truncated corn). (a) Drag coefficient. (b) Inertia coefficient.
where
f
Dx
i

1
2
qAg
i
u
i
Au
i
A; f
Ix
i
qVg
i
u
i
23
Assuming that C
Dx
and C
Mx
are independent of
time, the following equations are derived from the
least-square method:
BS
L
BC
Dx
0;
BS
L
BC
Mx
0;
S
L

F
2
Mx
i
F
Cx
i
F
Mx
i
2
24
where F
Mx
i
is the ith value of the measured wave
force. Note that in the above expression of the sum S
L
the difference between the calculated and measured
wave forces is weighted with the measured wave
force, so that the higher accuracy is obtained (e.g.,
Sarpkaya and Isaacson, 1981). From Eq. (24), C
Dx
and C
Mx
are given as
C
Dx

F
3
Mxi
f
Dxi
F
2
Mxi
f
2
Ixi

F
3
Mxi
f
Ixi
F
2
Mxi
f
Dxi
f
Ixi
F
2
Mxi
f
2
Dxi
F
2
Mxi
f
2
Ixi

_
F
2
Mxi
f
Dxi
f
Ixi
_
2
25
C
Mx

F
3
Mxi
f
Ixi
F
2
Mxi
f
2
Dxi

F
3
Mxi
f
Dxi
F
2
Mxi
f
Dxi
f
Ixi
F
2
Mxi
f
2
Dxi
F
2
Mxi
f
2
Ixi

_
F
2
Mxi
f
Dxi
f
Ixi
_
2
26
The same manner is applied to determine C
Dz
and
C
Mz
.
Fig. 8. Variations of drag and inertia coefficients with KC number for the case that still water level is used in Morison equation (truncated corn).
(a) Drag coefficient. (b) Inertia coefficient.
Fig. 9. Measured and calculated vertical (buoyant) wave forces with Morison equation for truncated corn. (a) Breaking condition (A). (b)
Breaking condition (B).
Fig. 10. Measured and computed water surface variation (breaking x/L
i
=0.111).
Fig. 5 shows comparison between the measured
wave force and calculated wave forces in the case
when waves break at the center of truncated pyramid
(breaking condition (B)). In the figure, open circle
indicates measured wave force, while dotted line and
solid line represent calculated wave forces with Eq.
(20) which are obtained using velocities and accel-
erations at front face and center of truncated pyr-
amid, respectively. It is found that the drag
coefficient for dotted line is negative and calculated
wave force with dotted line has a large difference
from the measured one. This can be explained from
Fig. 6 that shows the time variations of velocity,
acceleration at center of model structure (truncated
pyramid) and wave force. Dotted line, broken line
and solid line in Fig. 6 represent nondimensional
velocity u/u
m
, acceleration u/u
m
and wave force F
x
/
F
x
m
, respectively, where index m indicates the max-
Fig. 11. Measured and computed horizontal velocity. (a) Nonbreaking (x/L
i
= 0.137). (b) Breaking (x/L
i
= 0.046). (c) Breaking (x/L
i
= 0.016).
imum value of each data which is evaluated as the
average of five wave periods. As shown in Fig. 6,
both the phases of velocity and acceleration delay to
that of wave force and velocity at the center of
structure take negative value at instance that the
breaking wave force attains its maximum, which
Fig. 12. Measured and computed horizontal wave forces for truncated corn. (a) Nonbreaking (x/L
i
= 0.137). (b) Breaking (x/L
i
=0.046). (c)
Breaking (x/L
i
= 0.016).
corresponds to the moment that the wave attacks the
front face of the structure. This is the reason why the
drag coefficient becomes negative and large discrep-
ancy in the time variations are obtained. On the
contrary, in Fig. 5, calculated wave force (solid line)
using the velocity and acceleration measured at the
front surface of the structure shows good agreement
with the experimental one.
The drag and inertia coefficients for truncated corn
using the velocity and acceleration at the front surface
are shown in Fig. 7. In this method, no negative drag
coefficient have been obtained, and it can be con-
cluded that the velocity and acceleration measured at
the front surface are more suitable for the application
to the Morison equation. Fig. 8 shows the relationship
between the drag and inertia coefficients and the KC
number (u
m
T/D, D is the bottom diameter of model
structure) assuming A and V are constant. The drag
and inertia coefficients in Fig. 8 are scattered much
more than those in Fig. 7. This implies that the
varying water surface level should be considered in
Morison equation when wave force acts on a structure
on shallow water like on a submerged breakwater.
Considering the variations of C
Dx
with KC number
in Fig. 7, it can be pointed out that C
Dx
for the
nonbreaking waves (breaking condition (A)) and
post-breaking waves (breaking condition (D)) is
increasing with decreasing the KC number for the
range that KC number is less than 5. This may be
attributed to the linear drag force which is propor-
tional to the velocity at small KC number. An erro-
neous interpretation of inertia effects during slamming
may also be one possible reason (Kubota et al., 1990).
Details of drag and inertia coefficients for other
structures are given in Hur and Mizutani (2001).
Fig. 9 shows the comparison between measured
vertical wave force (open circle) and buoyant force
(solid line) obtained from the third term of RHS of
Eq. (21) for both breaking and nonbreaking con-
ditions in case of truncated cone. As depicted in
Fig. 9, the vertical wave force is dominated by the
buoyant force and the drag and inertia forces were
confirmed to be much small compared with the
buoyant force. This indicates that the vertical wave
force can be evaluated if the surface variation at the
center of the structure is known and no empirical
coefficients like drag and inertia coefficients are
necessary.
4.3. Evaluation of the wave forces based on two-
dimensional numerical simulation
In the preceding section, the Morison equation is
applicable in evaluation of the wave force. Thus, the
velocity and acceleration at the front face of the
structure and the water surface variation at the center
of the structure are given by the numerical calculation,
then the wave force can be obtained by the Morison
equation.
Fig. 10 shows comparison between the calculated
and measured water surface variation in case that
wave breaking occurs. It is clear that the calculated
Fig. 13. Measured and computed vertical (buoyant) wave forces for truncated corn.
water surface variation with solid line agrees well with
the measured one with open circle. Comparisons of
the measured and calculated horizontal velocity are
given in Fig. 11 for both breaking and nonbreaking
conditions. Although the calculated velocity in case of
severe wave breaking condition underestimates the
maximum value as shown in Fig. 11(c), the numerical
calculation is regarded to reproduce well the time
variation of the velocity. Through these comparisons,
the present numerical calculation can be effective to
give the water surface variation, velocity and accele-
ration.
Computed wave forces for truncated corn with the
Morison equation using calculated water surface var-
iation, velocity and acceleration are shown in Fig. 12
for comparison with measured wave forces. In the
computation, the drag and inertia coefficients are
evaluated from experimental results shown in Fig. 7,
and converged values at large KC range (C
Dx
= 0.8 and
C
Mx
= 1.35) are used.
As seen in Fig. 12, computed wave forces agree well
with the measured wave force not only for a non-
breaking wave condition but also breaking wave con-
ditions. Particularly, the impulsive wave force due to
breaking wave is also in good agreement with the
experimental one.
In case of the vertical wave force, the buoyant
force is obtained by the water surface variation at the
center of the structure. Fig. 13 shows calculated and
measured wave forces. Computed wave force over-
estimates the maximum value of measured wave
force. In this case, the wave overtops the structure
and downward force acts on the top of the structure.
Computation does not consider the effect of the wave
overtopping, and therefore it overestimates the exper-
imental value.
From these results, it is concluded that the two-
dimensional numerical calculation is effective for the
estimation of the wave force acting on a structure on
the submerged breakwater, using the Morison equa-
tion.
4.4. Evaluation of wave force based on three-dimen-
sional numerical simulation
Two-dimensional numerical evaluation has been
shown to give good estimation of the wave force
associated with the Morison equation. That method,
however, requires the drag and inertia coefficients of
the Morison equation. These coefficients are essential
quantities for the accurate estimation of wave force,
Fig. 14. Computed wave force by three-dimensional model and
experimental values for cubic body. (a) Nonbreaking (x/L
i
= 0.046).
(b) Breaking (x/L
i
= 0.111). (c) Breaking (x/L
i
= 0.176).
and hydraulic experiments may be necessary to obtain
the coefficients. Contrary, if the pressure on the whole
surface of the structure is given, wave force can be
obtained by integration of the pressure without any
empirical coefficients like the drag and inertia coef-
ficients. The present numerical method is based on the
porous body model which is easy to consider the
existence of both permeable and impermeable struc-
ture considering the porosity.
In this study, three-dimensional numerical simula-
tion is performed to obtain the pressure distribution on
the whole surface of the three-dimensional structure
for the wave force calculation. For simplicity, the
cubic body is considered in this study.
The wave forces calculated with this method are
compared with the experimental results in Fig. 14, in
which both breaking and nonbreaking conditions are
considered. First, the three-dimensional computation
gives almost complete estimation for the case of
nonbreaking wave condition without any parameter
identified by the experimental result. Whereas its
estimated wave force for the case of breaking wave
condition shows slight discrepancies in the time
variation just before and after the peak value. How-
ever, both the maximum and minimum values are well
predicted and the present three-dimensional numerical
estimation of the wave force is considered as a power-
ful tool in evaluating the wave force.
5. Conclusions
In this study, numerical estimation method of the
wave force acting on a structure on the submerged
breakwater is investigated. Main conclusions obtained
in this study can be summarized as follows:
(1) The Morison equation is applicable without
adding any term corresponding to the wave
breaking to evaluate the time variation of the
wave force by employing the velocity and
acceleration at the front surface of the structure
and the varying water surface level.
(2) The vertical wave force is dominated by the
buoyant force.
(3) Two-dimensional numerical calculation gives
good estimations of the time variations of the
water surface elevation, velocity and accelera-
tion. Substitution of these time profiles into the
Morison equation is confirmed to give good
prediction of the wave force. Thus, the two-
dimensional numerical calculation is effective in
the evaluation of the wave force.
(4) Three-dimensional numerical calculation is re-
vealed to reproduce the wave forces for both
nonbreaking and breaking wave conditions. No
empirical coefficients are required in this method
and it seems to be a powerful tool to evaluate the
wave force.
Notations
A(g) projection area under water level
B crest width
C
D
drag coefficient in numerical computation
C
M
inertia coefficient in numerical computation
C
Dx
drag coefficient in Morison equation in x-
direction
C
Mx
inertia coefficient in Morison equation in x-
direction
C
Dz
drag coefficient in Morison equation in z-
direction
C
Mz
inertia coefficient in Morison equation in z-
direction
D bottom diameter of structure
D
50
median grain size
F VOF function
F
Cx
i
the ith value of calculated wave force
F
Mx
i
the ith value of measured wave force
F
x
wave force in x-direction
F
z
wave force in z-direction
g gravitational acceleration
h water depth in front of the wave generator
h
t
water depth on the toe of the breakwater
H
i
incident wave height
L
i
incident wavelength
M
x
inertia force in x-direction
M
y
inertia force in y-direction
M
z
inertia force in z-direction
n normal direction to the impermeable sur-
face
p pressure
q flux density of wave generation source
q* wave generation source with its flux density
q assigned only at source position x =x
S
R water depth on the crown
R
x
drag force in x-direction
R
y
drag force in y-direction
R
z
drag force in z-direction
S leading slope of the breakwater
t time
T
i
incident wave period
u velocity components in x-direction
u
n
velocity component in normal direction to
the impermeable surface
u
s
velocity component along the impermeable
surface
v velocity components in y-direction
V(0) under water volume at the still water con-
dition
V(g) volume under water level
w velocity components in z-direction
x
S
source position
Dx
S
width in x-direction of the mesh including
x =x
S
a weighting parameter between the central dif-
ference method and upwind method
b wave dissipation factor
e weighting coefficient in the Courant con-
dition
c
v
volume porosity
c
x
surface permeability in x-direction
c
y
surface permeability in y-direction
c
z
surface permeability in z-direction
g water level at the center of the structure
m coefficient of kinematic viscosity
q fluid density
s viscous stress
Acknowledgements
We wish to thank the reviewers for helpful com-
ments. This research was conducted under the support
of the Hori Information Science Promotion Foundation.
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