I N F O R M AT I O N F O R T H E S E W I N G I N D U S T R Y

THE SEWABILITY OF ELASTIC FABRIC

THE SEWABILITY
OF ELASTIC FABRIC
The processing of elastic fabric for women‘s and men’s
outer garments, shirts and blouses is increasingly
popular and is well liked by customers. These garments
are pleasant and comfortable to wear, allow movement,
and look casual but elegant. For these reasons, elastic
fabric garments are unlikely to be merely a passing
fad.
This was reason enough for Amann to take up this
topic, and in particular to deal with the technical
demands when processing elastic fabric.
Elastic fabrics are those fabrics with stretchable threads
(such as Dorlastan®, Lycra®) worked invisibly in warp
and/or weft direction. These special characteristics
are provided for by an approximate 2-5% part of the
elastane threads. These new fabric qualities are either
monoelastic (extensible in warp or weft direction) or
bielastic (extensible in warp and weft directions). The
elasticity of the available elastic fabrics available on
the market at present ranges from approximately 20%
for fashion wear to around 30-50% for functional
clothing. These fabrics find a variety of uses ranging
from traditional areas such as sportswear and beach-
wear, to sporty skipants and regular outer garments
for ladies, gents and boys such as blouses, shirts or
blazers.
The decisive factor when processing elastic fabric is
the correct setting of the sewing parameters. Production
conditions are often set for non-elastic material, and
not changed when processing elastic fabric. Experience
shows that this often leads to complaints about the
quality of the seams.
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There are two basic problems:
왘 INSUFFICIENT ELASTICITY OF THE
SEAMS
The seams break under longitudinal strain
왘 ELASTANE DAMAGE
Surface migration of the light-colored elastane yarn
In order to avoid such complaints and to ensure
problem-free production, the following sewing
parameters must be taken into consideration:
1. SEWING PARAMETERS FOR
SUFFICIENT SEAM ELASTICITY
When seams are created on elastic fabric, it is very
important that they have sufficient longitudinal elasticity
for the strain caused by being worn. Under strain, the
seams must not „restrain“ the elasticity of the fabric.
Rather, they must „follow“ the movements.
Sufficient seam elasticity is primarily determined by
the thread storage, which is the amount of thread
contained in the seam.
왘 The more thread contained in the seam,
the higher the seam elasticity!
The potential thread storage is mostly influenced by
the selected stitch type, the stitch density in use and
the thread tension. Details on these essential sewing
parameters and the use of appropriate sewing thread
are presented below.
Other sewing parameters, such as the seam design
or the thickness of the fabric, also influence the thread
storage. For example, the seam elasticity is higher for
thick fabric and for fabric with many layers. However,
in practice it is often not possible to change these
parameters.
1.1 SELECTING THE APPROPRIATE
STITCH TYPE
Above all, the stitch type determines the potential
amount of thread in the seam, independent of the stitch
density and the thread tension. Under standard sewing
conditions, for example,
왘 the lockstitch provides thread storage
of 2.80 m
왘 the double chainstitch provides
thread storage of 4.80 m
왘 the four-thread overlock stitch
provides thread storage of 17.10 m
for a 1-m seam.
This shows clearly that if an inappropriate stitch is
selected there will not be enough thread and that even
a slight strain would cause the seams to break. The
tuck seam is an excellent example. It is not often made
with a two-needle seaming stitch (stitch type 402), but
rather with a lockstitch (stitch type 301) when the
required special machine is not available. However,
the lockstitch cannot supply enough thread to make
tuck seams sufficiently elastic at parts of the body with
much motion, such as the knee area. This remains true
even for loose thread tension and high stitch density.
Essential stitch types in the manufacture of knitwear
and thread requirements based on sewing techno-
logical standard parameters (see page 4).
Foto: Brax
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1.2 SELECTING THE APPROPRIATE
STITCH DENSITY
The thread storage is also highly influenced by the
stitch density. More stitches per centimeter of seam
result in having more thread in the seam.
A simple rule of thumb applies:
왘 The higher the stitch density,
the higher the seam elasticity.
Imperative when selecting the appropriate stitch density
is the material to be processed, in conjunction with
the desired seam elasticity value. A standard value is
a stitch density of 5 stitches/cm, depending on the
selected stitch type.
The adjacent diagram shows the in-fluence of the
number of stitches per centimeter on the elasticity of
seams.
Seam elasticity in %
90
80
70
60
54 %
50
46%
40
30
20
10
4 5 Stitch density (stitches per cm)
Material: elastane fabric
Sewing thread: SABAC Nr. 120
Stitch type: double chainstitch 401
Very high stitch densities can cause damage to the
elastane, displace-ment pucker and wavy seams. The
appropriate stitch density is best determined by a
sewing test to guarantee both flawless appearance of
the seam and sufficient seam elasticity.
It might be necessary to select a different stitch type
if the highest possible stitch density is chosen but the
seam is not elastic enough.
THE MOST IMPORTANT STITCH TYPES WITH *Basis:
SEWING THREAD REQUIREMENTS FOR Standard sewing material 1mm
STANDARD SEWING PARAMETERS* with 4 stitches/cm

More information can be obtained from our brochure „Determining your sewing thread requirements”
STITCH TYPE ISO 4915 SEAM- THREAD REQUIREMENT
DIN 61400 CONSTRUCTION PER 1m SEAMLENGTH %

NT: 1,40 m 50%

NF
Lockstitch 301 UT: 1,40 m 50%
GF 2,80 m 100%

Lockstitch NF
NT: 2,70 m 50%
zigzag 304 UT: 2,70 m 50%
GF
5,40 m 100%

NT: 1,70 m 35%

NF
Double chainstitch 401 UT: 3,10 m 65%
GF
4,80 m 100%

NF
NT: 3,40 m 33%
Tucking stitch 402 NF UT: 6,80 m 67%

GF 10,20 m 100%

Two-needle NF NT: 3,40 m 29%

double chainstitch 406
NF UT: 8,40 m 71%

GF 11,80 m 100%

Three-thread NF NT: 1,70 m 12%

overedge stitch 504 GF
UT: 12,10 m 88%
GF
interlaced at needle hole 13,80 m 100%

Four-thread NF NT: 3,40 m 20%

NF
overedge stitch 514 GF UT: 13,70 m 80%
GF
interlaced at needle hole 17,10 m 100%

LF NT: 3,40 m 20%

Two-needle NF UT: 8,40 m 50%
double chainstitch 602 NF
CT: 5,10 m 30%
with cover thread
GF 16,90 m 100%

LF NT: 5,10 m 23%

Three-needle NF UT: 11,60 m 52%
covering chainstitch 605 CT: 5,80 m 25%
with cover thread
GF
22,50 m 100%
LF NT: 6,80 m 25%
Four-needle NF
UT: 14,80 m 54%
covering chainstitch 607 CT: 5,80 m 21%
with cover thread GF
27,40 m 100%
CT= cover thread · UT=underthread (looper or bobbin thread) · NT=needle thread

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1.3 MAINTAINING OPTIMUM
THREAD TENSION
For proper thread distribution and a sufficient amount
of thread in the seam, the thread tensions must be
adjusted properly. If the thread tension is too tight,
only a slight amount of strain can cause seam
breakages.
The following distribution patterns show the interlocking
of needle and underthread.
왘 on lockstitch seams (301)
On lockstich sewing machines the needle and bobbin
thread tensions are adjusted so that both threads
interlock in the centre of the material, if possible. This
adjustment ensures that an equal amount of each
thread is used in the seam. Both thread tensions should
be set as low as possible, however without risking
gaping seams.
Optimum and incorret thread balance for a lockstitch
seam:
Well-balanced stitch pattern, indicating that the seam possesses
maximum elasticity and tensile strength.
Needle thread tension too strong or bobbin thread tension too low,
indicating insufficient elasticity and tensile strength of the seam.
Bobbin thread tension too strong, or needle thread tension too low,
indicating insufficient elasticity and tensile strength of the seam.
왘 on chainstitch seams (401)
On all chainstitch, covering stitch and overedge stitch
sewing machines the thread tensions are set correctly
when the needle thread loops appear as dots on the
bottom side of the fabric and the optimally relaxed
looper thread can be pulled through these dot-shaped
thread-loop ends without any effort.
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Correct and incorrect thread balance, shown using
an example of a double chainstitch seam
(stitch type 401)
Well balanced tension
Incorrect tension
In some cases it is advantageous to loosen the looper
thread tension, in order to develop the thread loops
on the underside of the seam. Attention should be paid
to the fact that gaps may appear in the seam, should
the looper thread tension be set too loosely.
1.3 USING APPROPRIATE SEWING
THREAD
A particularly elastic sewing thread is often required
when processing elastic materials. In contrast to these
considerations, however, the previously applied sewing
thread approach can still be used.
왘 The more thread contained in the
seam, the higher the seam elasticity.
Use of core-spun thread is recommended. The diameter
of the sewing thread should be chosen according to
the fabric and the strain upon the garment when in
use. Core-spun threads with diameter no. 120 cover
a wide range of applications. The following quality
demands should always be met:
왘 Compactness and uniformity ot thread
왘 High tensile strength despite small diameter
왘 Brilliant colours of high stability
왘 Precise winding slidability
왘 Shrink proof, harmonious care
왘 Heat resistance
– during sewing
– during ironing
왘 Elasticity suppleness, no skin irritation
왘 Abrasion resistance
 Recommanding sewing Applications The following information on processing technique
thread should be considered to avoid elastane damage:

SabaC
2.1 USING THE PROPER NEEDLE SIZE
Polyester
The suitable needle size mainly depends on the density
core-spun thread
and sensitivity of the fabric. The following rule applies:
No. 80, 100, 120 Closing and assembling
seams, ornamental seams, 왘 The more thread contained in the seam,
Rasant
buttonholes and serging the higher the seam elasticity!
Cotton-polyester
core-spun thread Needle sizes between 70 and 90 Nm should be used
No. 75, 100, 120 to avoid elastane damage.
Saba 150 Closing and assembling 2.2 SELECTING THE PROPER NEEDLE
Polyester seams, overedging POINT
Advanced Technology lightweight fabrics When processing elastic fabric, it is recommended to
No. 150
use needles with a slightly rounded point „SES“ or
Serafil „SAN 10“ (for fine fabrics), or a medium ball-point
Polyester multifilement Serging and blind stitch „SUK“ (for coarser fabric). As a rule, these point shapes
thread seams do not puncture the elastane yarn but rather slide past
No. 120/2 oder 200 them.
Texturan Overlock and cover seams
2.3 REGULAR NEEDLE CHANGES
Polyester-bulky thread (looper and cover thread),
Even slight damage to the needle point harms the fabric
No. 120 serging seams
when it is penetrated by the needle. As a preventative
measure, the needle should be replaced frequently.
The sewing conditions (nature of the material, sewing
2. ELASTANE DAMAGE machine speed, etc.) determine how often the needle
should be replaced.
There are two basic reasons for elastane damage:
2.4 ADJUSTING THE SIZE OF THE STITCH
왘 Needle penetration damages the elastane yarn, or
HOLE
pulls it out of the fabric.
In any case, the size of the stitch hole of the stitch plate
왘 The elastane yarn is not sufficiently bound in the must match with the size of the needle. Fine fabric is
fabric. Latitudinal strain pulls it out of the fabric damaged by stitch holes which are too large as the
along the seam. Certain stitch types and seam material is in the form of a funnel is forced through the
constructions are likely to alleviate this, i.e.: recess.
• a seam allowance less than 1cm
• flatlock seams etc. 2.5 REDUCING THE SEWING SPEED
If damage to the elastane continues, even following
The figure to the right shows the elastane yarn which implementation of the above recommendations, it may
were pulled out. help to try a slower sewing speed.

2.6 MODIFYING THE SEAM ALLOWANCE

AND SEAM DESIGN
Current problems with the migration of elastane yarn
can be prevented by increasing the seam allowance.
A further possibility would be changing the construction
of the seam. For a french seam or lap seam, for ex-
ample, the elastane yarn is sewn tighter into the seam
by deflecting the fabric. Depending on the model

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design, however, it may not always be possible to
implement these modifications.
2.7 CREATING SEAM SAMPLES
Before processing elastic fabric, seam samples of
various quality should always be made. This helps to
prevent production difficulties.
Our experience shows that there are definite limits to
optimization of the sewing usability of materials with
a tendency to elastane damage. The fabric supplier
should be contacted if the information provided above
does not lead to satisfactory sewing results. The supplier
might be able to make technical construction or finishing
modifications to the properties of the material.

A simple test shows the extent to which material of a

given quality tends to damage the elastane:
For the manual stress test, the pieces of material sewn
together are firmly moved back and forth along the
seam, using both hands.

The following notes will make it easier to process elastic fabric, and to help improve the quality:
CHECKLIST:

PARAMETER RECOMMENDATION AMANN Your own production

general guideslines specification
Stitch type Use stitch types with larger thread g. stitch type 401, 514
storage

Stitch density Match with the material to be processed. approx. 5 stitches/cm

The elasticity will be greater for the (individuelle Tests erforderlich)
higher stitch densities.

Thread tension as low as possible Lockstitch

(=> increases the thread storage), Needle thread: approx 70 – 90 g
as high as necessary (for fine to normal fabrics)
(=> avoid seam gaps) Looper thread: approx 20 –40 g
(for fine to normal fabrics)

Sewing needle Thin needles, matched to the material; Nm 70 – at most Nm 90

rounded point preferable (SES, SUK or (depending on the material)
SAN 10)

Sewing thread Quality sewing thread; SABAC/ Rasant:

keep the proven sewing thread concept
closing and assembling seams,
ornamental seams, buttonholes and
serging seams
Serafil:
serging and blind stitch seams
Texturan:
overlock and cover seams (looper
and cover thread), trimming seams

Avoiding elastane • Use the proper needle size and needle point shape
damage • Regularly replace the needle on a regular basis
• Consider reducing the sewing speed
• For fine materials, tailor the stitch hole size
• Check the seam allowance and construction
Sewing usability tests before beginning production serve to harmonize sewing parameters,
and help avoid processing problems during production.

SEWING APPLICATION SUPPORT

We will be glad to provide you with support in relation nt@amann-online.de
to any application and process issues.
Please do not hesitate to contact us at: phone +49 (71 43) 277-250

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Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. · Hauptstraße1 · D-74357 Bönnigheim · phone +49 ( 7143) 2 77- 0 · fax +49 ( 7143) 2 77 - 200 · http://www.amann-online.de

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