Clothes are an epitome of a culture. People in different parts of the world have their own styles of dressing which symbolize their culture and status. The last two centuries have seen an upsurge in the use of manmade textiles like polyster, nylon, PP, acrylic etc in almost every part of the world.
Forty years ago, the industrialized countries dominated global exports in this area. Today, developing countries produce half of the worlds textile exports. Moreover, the economic performance of the apparel and textiles industry in developing countries has large impacts on employment opportunities, especially for women. Though Ready-made garment (RMG) industry caters to one of the basic needs of human beings, it came into existence as an industry,( i.e. the manufacture of garments using industrial methods of production) only at the turn of the 20th century with the introduction of sewing machine on a commercial scale. In India too, though it is considered an offshoot of our textile industry which dates back to about the middle of the nineteenth century, and though of all the manufacturing activities in the economy it calls for ordinary technical skills and low capital investment, there was no ready- made garment industry worth the name till about the dawn of Independence (1947). A widely accepted definition of Ready Made Garment Industry is contained in the International Standard Industrial Classification of all economic activities adopted by the United Nations including the ILO and followed by the Government of India. It indicates that those establishments which do not make fabrics or knitted fabrics but only cut and make garments out of them, could be covered under the garment industry.
Global Evolution of Clothing Industry
There were various stages - from a historical perspective - where the textile industry evolved from being a domestic small-scale industry, to the status of supremacy it currently holds. The cottage stage was the first stage in its history where textiles were produced on a domestic basis. During this period cloth was made from materials including wool, flax and cotton. The material depended on the area where the cloth was being produced, and the time they were being made. In the later half of the medieval period in the northern parts of Europe, cotton came to be regarded as an imported fibre.
During the later phases of the 16th century cotton was grown in the warmer climes of America and Asia. When the Romans ruled, wool, leather and linen were the materials used for making clothing in Europe, while flax was the primary material used in the northern parts of Europe.
New innovations in clothing production, manufacture and design came during the Industrial Revolution - the new wheels, looms, and spinning processes changed clothing manufacture forever. In the later phases of the 20th century, shuttles that were used in the textile industry were developed and became faster and thus more efficient. This led to the replacement of the older shuttles with new ones.1 Thus, modern techniques, electronics and innovation have led to a competitive, low-priced textile industry today, offering almost any type of cloth or design a person could desire.
Outsourcing in the textile and apparel industry began in the late 1950s and 1960s when Western buyers turned to Japan for the procurement of good quality fabric and textiles at low costs. Later, the motivation of outsourcing to developing countries was not driven by cost considerations alone; rather it followed as a response to change in the structure of demand as well. Garment industry worldwide has been undergoing significant restructuring since the final phaseout of the Multifibre Arrangement (MFA) on January 1, 2005. The changes have been taking place in terms of relocating production sites on the one hand and coping with the new competition on the other
The Indian textile market and its future growth potential has been captured aptly by the Italian Trade Commissions observations made in 2009 reproduced as follows :
Clothing, textile and fashion accessories form 39 per cent of the Rs 55,000 crore organized retailing in India. Consumer spending on apparel in India has grown over the last five years, touching the global benchmark of 5 per cent of the total income Europe continues to be India's major export market with 22 per cent share in textiles and 43 per cent in apparel; the US is the single largest buyer of Indian textiles and apparel with 19 per cent and 32.6 per cent share respectively. Readymade garments are the largest export segment, accounting for 45 per cent of total textile exports and 8.2 per cent of India's total exports.
Future
The demand for ready-made garments in rural India will surge at an annual rate16.50% to reach Rs. 42,918 Crore or US$10.41 billion by 2010.
Readymade garments exports from India are expected to touch US$ 14.5 billion by 2009-2010 with a cumulative annual growth of 18 to 20 per cent, according to Apparel Export Promotion Council. The Indian fashion industry is expected to rise at a stupendous pace of 22.67% through 2012
There are several Readymade Garments centre in India, of which the major ones are Mumbai, Coimbatore and Tirupur, Ahmedabad, Ludhiana, Bangalore, Indore. It was thought expedient to focus on two of these in the present project- Tirupur, which is in the process of expanding its existing base, and Bangalore, which is an emerging centre that has grown at an accelerated pace over the last few years and has a dominant presence of women workers.
1.2. National Scenario
The textile industry including readymade garments occupies a unique position in the Indian economy. Its predominant presence in the Indian economy is manifested in terms of its significant contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange earnings. The RMG or also called as the apparel sector is the final stage of the textile value chain and the maximum value addition takes place at this stage. In India RMG industry is fragmented and pre-dominantly in the small/scale sector. Therefore, the sector is low investment and highly labour-intensive industry. This industry is environment friendly as it is least polluting and it could provide employment to the rural population, as this sector does not need sophisticated skill sets.
The RMG industry contributes around 8 per cent of Indias exports, 7 per cent of industrial output and is the largest employment generator after agriculture. It contributes about 14% to the industrial production and about 4% to the GDP. It has immense potential for employment generation particularly in the rural and remote areas of the country on account of its close linkage with agriculture. The contribution of this industry to the gross export earnings of the country is about 37% while it adds only 1 1.5% to the gross import bill of the country. It is the only industry which is self reliant and complete in value chain i.e. from raw material to the highest value added products i.e. garments/made ups. As a corollary to this the growth and promotion of this industry has a significant influence on the overall economic development of our country.
Indias textile products, including handlooms and handicrafts, are exported to more than a hundred countries. However, the USA and the EU, account for about two-
third of Indias textiles exports. The other major export destinations are Canada, U.A.E., Japan, Saudi Arabia, Republic of Korea, Bangladesh, Turkey, etc.
Structure of the Industry
Production Units Garment production units in India are spread across the country but mainly concentrated in manufacturing clusters. The clusters are also specialized in terms (a) types of garments manufactured (either woven or knitted) and (b) variety of products produced (i.e. Mens Womens of Childrens). Major manufacturing centres (19) are Kolkata, Mumbai. Tirupur, Indore, Banglaore, Chennai, Okhla, Gurgaon, Noida, Jaipur, Ludhiana, Bellary, Kanpur, Ahmedabad, Jabalpur, Salem, Erode, Madurai and Nagpur.
Number of Units-Estimated number of units in 19 centres are 33400, that account for 95% of total production of the country. Almost 92% of total units situated in the following 12 bigger centres account for 85% of total production.
Challenges for the Industry
Labour supply Garment industry depends on migrant labourers. Labour comes from UP and Bihar. However, large clusters like Tirupur, Kolkata, Chennai etc. depend upon local labour force, from nearby villages, due to easy availability. There is greater tendency to employ contractual labour rather than permanent labour. The wages paid are as per the prevailing minimum wages standards. The average reported wage rate is Rs.4000 per month for the labour. One of the major problems faced by the industry is huge shortage of appropriately trained manpower.
Fragmentation the key problem
According to industry associations, the garment industry in India has not grown to its potential and the main reason for this is the fragmented structure of the industry. Smaller sizes of the production units has led to several drawbacks for the industry such as-
Uncompetitive scale in globalized environment Low technological development Lower production High raw material cost.
Human Resource Development
There is a gap of 2,50,000 managers between the availability and requirement of personnel in the areas of management, merchandising and vendor management. To bridge this gap, the Government has set up
1. Sardar Vallabhhai Patel Institute of Textile Management (SVPITM), Coimbatore
2. Institute of Apparel Management (Through AEPC), Gurgaon
These institutes are expected to create managerial cadre professionals in the apparel, textiles and fashion retail sectors.
3. Apparel Training and Design Centres (ATDCs) for creating skilled manpower
Apparel Training & Design Centres (ATDCs) are running various courses/ programmes to meet the skilled manpower requirements of the textile industry, especially apparel, in the field of design, merchandising and marketing. The Apparel Industry employs approximately 6 million workers, of which approximately 3 million are employed in the export sector. Fifty two Apparel Training and Design Centres (ATDC) are being run by the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). ATDCs have trained over 21,000 workers since inception.
1.3 Garment Industry in Tirupur
Tirupur, an obscure town in Coimbatore District in Tamil Nadu has been placed in the knitwear map of global garment industry, apart from catering to the whole India. The first knitwear unit in Tirupur was set up in 1925 but the growth of the industry was slow till late 1930s. A series of strikes in late 1930s in knitting factories in the neighbouring towns of Salem and Madurai resulted in the opening of new firms in Tirupur. Subsequently, it emerged as the prominent centre for knitwear in South India by 1940s. In 1942, only 34 units were engaged in the production of knitwear. All these units were composite mills and the production was carried out in the same unit . There are also references to some units performing specific tasks / operations like bleaching and dyeing, located in the larger units. By 1961, the number of units rose to 230 and till early 1970s, the industry catered only to the domestic market. These units were mostly composite mills without any subcontracting system of production. It was in the 1980s, the export market began to expand and subsequently Tirupur emerged as the largest exporter of
cotton knitwear from the country, accounting for roughly 80 percent of the total cotton knitwear exporters.
There exist local representative institutions and support bodies that initiate the development of the knitwear sector in Tiruppur. Textile Committee under the Ministry of Textiles, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), The South Indian Hosiery Manufacturers Association (SIHMA), Tirupur Exporters Association (TEA), Knit Cloth Manufacturers Association (KCMS) are some of the most important associations operating in Tiruppur extending a trade related help to the entrepreneurs.
Tirupur is now a leading exporting centre of knitted garments and undergarments. It is a well integrated cluster with maximum number of units in to garment making followed by knitting, dyeing and bleaching, fabric printing, other ancillary units and compacting and calendaring units.
Since Tirupur is an export oriented cluster, machines used at various stages of production are largely imported to match the international standards of production. Different types of machines are imported from Europe/USA and Far East like Japan/Taiwan/Korea. Of late Tirupur exporters have started using machines of Chinese origin due to cost considerations. TUF & EPCG schemes are used extensively to import technology. Exports through Buying Houses in India and direct exports to importer/wholesaler in India are the preferred channels of distribution. However, there are several units who are using commission agents. Some units are also directly targeting retailers abroad.
Chapter -II
COMPANY PROFILE
The project entitled Organizational Study on MARUTHI KNITTERSS (HOSIERY MANUFACTURERS & EXPORTERS), TIRUPPUR help me to know more about the functions, structure, policies and different procedures of that organization. The above said company is a partnership firm and has been into exports for the last 14years. They are the largest knitters in Coimbatore, with over 180 employees and
8million USD$.
Maruthi was founded by Mr. Sathish and began garment business on 1999 as manufacture and exporter. Maruthi Knitterss, Hosiery manufacturers and Exporters company was started as a Partnership Firm in the year 2001. They are one of the leading garment manufacturer and exporter in India. We have own Knitting, Printing, Washing, and cold Pigment dye unit. Maruthi Knitterss are doing all type knitted and woven garments. Like Knitted T-shirts, Polo-shirts, Pants, Woven boxer shorts, Kids styles. We have well experienced for washing garments,(acid wash, Stones wash, Denim wash) and Cold pigment dye, Garment dyed. They are specialized for emblissement works.
Maruthi Knitterss production capacity is 50,000pcs/month. We have well set-up and communication for our raw materials suppliers and processing suppliers. The main motive is On- time delivery, Keep Quality, Continuously improvement and Satisfaction Service to Customers.
Vision
To offer the world the best in knitter. To create customers satisfaction and hence customer delight. To provide quality service and products. Mission
Quality Service Consistency
Quality
Maruthi Knitterss is an ISO 9001:2000 certified company; it follows international standards of quality.
Consistency
On- time delivery, Keep Quality, Continuously improvement and Satisfaction Service to Customers
2.1. Infrastructure
Maruthi Knitterss, Hosiery manufacturers and Exporters are located in Tirupur, Tamilnadu. The total built up area is 2500 sq meters, apart from this the company directly employs over 180 employees and at least another 100 are outsider of the company.
Contemporary technology and state of the art infrastructure make the difference in providing an environment which inspires high level of performance. They use tools such as Computer Aided Layer Optimization in order to check material consumption and costs and to remove wastages. Their offices are equipped with complete amenities to facilitate a relaxed and cheerful working atmosphere for the employees.
2.2. Technology
It is Maruthis policy to make sure that every part of the product is tested to comply with the material requirements of the importing country, customer and end user. They use services of the best testing labs in ITS, SGS & others. Our technologists check that the materials and reports are as per various parameters defined by our customers and only then give the approvals.
2.3. Quality Policy & Principle
Internal charter of ethics
A charter of ethics was written by us in order to guarantee a responsible approach and the level of service that results from it.
Independence and integrity of our teams
We also assure a daily monitoring of inspectors in order to detect any insufficiency in this essential point of its charter
Compliance with local standards
The local laws are well known and compliance with them is carefully analyzed.
2.4. Product Profile
Be it fashionable ensembles for Kids, trendy wear for women or Comfort wear for men, Maruthi knitterss have them all. In addition to mass production of fashion garments for men & ladies, all types of knit and woven. Our special products Corporate wear, Organic & Mercerized wear and Promotional & Event product etc.
A group of people who are bound together in formal relationship to achieve a common goal Examples are schools, hospitals, institutions, social clubs etc. Organization is a structural process of defining and grouping and regrouping the activities through organization. In an organization manager is able to perform the function like planning, organizing, directing and controlling which are the basis for management.
If an organization is not properly designed and reveals a number of problems then the division will become in effective. The result will be slow and poor division, lack of co-ordination of activities, conflict among members. Therefore leadership, motivation and co-ordination should be achieved. Types of organizations are formal, informal and project organization.
3.2. Organization structure of Maruthi Knitterss
The formal structure of Partnership Firm with two partners head Maruthi Knitterss, one partner (Admin and Finance) and second Partner (technical)
The concerned department heads have under them a team of specialist officers designation as managers. Below them are assistant and helpers.
Departments and their functions
1. Purchase Department 2. Production Department 3. Personnel Department 4. Accounts Department 5. Marketing Department 6. R &D Department 7. Quality Control Department 8. Supply Chain Management 3.3. Departments and their functions
1) Research and Development department The R & D Department is under the partner (Technical) and is headed by qualified developers who reports directly to R & D assistant manager and the line is followed up by the chain of command.
1. The R& D dept was established in the year 2005 as a separate Business Unit at Maruthi Knitterss, to satisfy the growing need to develop and control textile raw material quality. 2. Maruthi Knitterss has established itself as a harbinger of new yarn quality developments, reliable source of quality yarns & textile materials. 3. Research & Development in collaboration with key fibre suppliers, and top spinning companies new yarn quality & set standard. 4. Finalizing fibre and yarn process parameters for selected quality.
2) Design & Development department A manager heads this department and he has under him fashion designers and draft men. He is responsible for the following: 1. The design team develop those trends in close collaboration with our customer according to their specific market needs. 2. They constantly work on new fabrics and trims and experiment with new washes and finishes to suit our customer styles. 3. All fabrics, artwork, trims and labels are customised to fit this collection, to inspire our customer and match their market segment.
3) Supply Chain Management 1. The aim is that through improved visibility, tracking and performance, impacts and risks will be better managed in the supply chain. Sustainability and business resilience also drive innovation. 2. To further sustainability in our supply chain, we are developing tools and programs, and working with our partners, to improve working conditions and environmental performance, and also provide sustainable sourcing options. 3. They will continue to work with our customers, suppliers and industry partners to improve our collective knowledge and capabilities around sustainable sourcing, products and packaging.