Amsterdam in your pocket: Summer 2014 Maps Events Restaurants Cafes Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels. Explore Noord take a free ferry across the River IJ Zandvoort Discover Holland's most popular seaside resort. A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam Cofeeshops 56 Where to smoke responsibly Lifestyle Directory 60 Spas, doctors and other useful information amsterdam for kids 63 interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring.
Amsterdam in your pocket: Summer 2014 Maps Events Restaurants Cafes Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels. Explore Noord take a free ferry across the River IJ Zandvoort Discover Holland's most popular seaside resort. A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam Cofeeshops 56 Where to smoke responsibly Lifestyle Directory 60 Spas, doctors and other useful information amsterdam for kids 63 interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring.
Amsterdam in your pocket: Summer 2014 Maps Events Restaurants Cafes Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels. Explore Noord take a free ferry across the River IJ Zandvoort Discover Holland's most popular seaside resort. A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam Cofeeshops 56 Where to smoke responsibly Lifestyle Directory 60 Spas, doctors and other useful information amsterdam for kids 63 interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring.
inyourpocket.com N13 - FREE COPY Amsterdam Explore Noord Take a free ferry across the River IJ Zandvoort Discover Hollands most popular seaside resort Summer 2014 3 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Contents E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S Foreword 4 A few words from the editor Arriving & Getting Around 5 How to get to and from your hotel Amsterdam Basics 8 Getting to grips with Amsterdam Centrum 10 Canals, cafs & the Plantage Nieuw-West 34 Lakes, parks and modern architecture Noord 36 Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design Oost 46 Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhood West 48 Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek Zuid 50 De Pijp and some of the citys best museums Zuidoost 52 Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax Gay Amsterdam 54 A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam Cofeeshops 56 Where to smoke responsibly Lifestyle Directory 60 Spas, doctors and other useful information Amsterdam for kids 63 Interesting ways to spend the day with your ospring Zandvoort 64 Discover Hollands most popular seaside resort List of small features Cash or credit? 6 Amsterdam in the movies 9 Bitter... balls? 15 Cafs & Cafeterias 16 Red Light streets 18 A farewell to pints 21 Cycling in Noord 38 Oldest gay bar 55 Higher education 56 Embracing the haze 57 In Your Pocket mobile 58 Looking up to the Dutch 61 Dutch highlights & Day trips 63 Maps & Index Centrum: old centre map 31 Centrum: city centre map 32 Noord map 44 Netherlands map 66 Venue index 67 Here are just a few things you can do on the other side of the river in Amsterdam Noord. Take a small river cruise on a boat that oers an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some cycling in the pristine countryside, bring swim trunks and take a dip at one of the areas swimming pools or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the sizzling new hub of Amsterdams creative community. Read more on p.36. Photo of Ransdorp courtesy of Amsterdam Noord Hollands most popular seaside resort is only a short train ride away from Amsterdam. Read more on p.64. Photo courtesy of Zandvoort 4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Foreword Some travellers are content to just walk around a new city hoping that theyll stumble upon something interesting. In fact, when we were teenagers backpacking across Europe, we would just take a peek at local postcards to see what was worth looking at in every city we came across. Am- sterdam is, in fact, so beautiful and alluring that you could simply wander along its canals for days on end without visiting any museums, but sooner or later everyone has to eat and if youre like us, youd probably like to stop for a lo- cal brew every once in a while, too. Thats where we come in. Weve scoured the length and breadth of Amsterdam to discover its best cafs, restaurants, pubs, clubs and summer terraces and youll nd quite a few on the following pages. Thats not to say, that we dont have extensive information about sightseeing, because we do. And unlike other guides to Amsterdam, this slim booklet covers all of the citys dis- tricts, so intrepid travellers can discover parts of Amster- dam most tourists will never see. Enjoy! COVER STORY Although cycling can be quite stressful in Amsterdams city centre, the wide open spaces on the opposite side of the river are perfect for riding a bike. Visit Noords trendy cafs if youd like to hang out with local hipsters or do as the couple on this is- sues cover did and explore the districts charming villages like Schellingwoude and its historic church, which is now registered as a protected national monument. Publisher In Your Pocket Netherlands Weikesstraat 21, 5335 LE Alem, The Netherlands ISSN 2211-2480 Company Oce & Accounts Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot in the EU Editorial Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis Research Theo Leerintveld Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy of Amsterdam city governments, Amsterdam Marketing and various concert organisers. Cover Museum Van Loon Sales & Circulation Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, theo.leerintveld@ inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub- lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Social media Find us on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S CZECH REPUBLIC SOUTH AFRICA DUTCH CARIBBEAN POLAND ROMANIA HUNGARY SERBIA BOSNIA ALBANIA GREECE FYR MACEDONIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO ITALY CROATIA SLOVENIA AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND UKRAINE GEORGIA BELARUS LITHUANIA LATVIA ESTONIA RUSSIA GERMANY BELGIUM NETHERLANDS NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithu- ania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our rst in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over ve milli- on, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all thats new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpo- cket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). Summer 2014 5 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Arriving & Getting Around Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city. BY PLANE Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than 10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly ecient. Youll nd your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essen- tially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre and part food court. Although located under one roof, the building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4. Just walk straight to the main hall to nd most services that you might need including transportation to the city. An of- cial tourist information centre is available in terminal 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins. You can also leave your bags at the storage oce for the same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small bank of lockers is also available on the ground oor be- tween terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems getting money. Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and youll nd a Travel Taxi oce. Buses and hotel shut- tles are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside with the names of the citys biggest hotels that operate their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly marked at the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A single ticket costs 15.50 and children 4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible that it can be ar- ranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of other destinations in Amsterdam. If youre like most people you wont even leave the ter- minal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes for only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to nd a list of train departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert your credit card, enter your PIN, conrm the price and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the Central Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train tickets at the Train Tickets & Services oce but youll pay an extra 0.50. BY TRAIN Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achieve- ment in its own right, it was later criticised by urban plan- ners for having cut o the city of canals from its most es- sential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many of the citys historic cafs were aorded an impressive vista of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. To- day, the massive edice and its surroundings are a bit of a mess as the station is being renovated and retrotted to accommodate a controversial new metro line. Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex (www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and 4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to plat- form 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas (1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon. For tourist information we recommend you exit the building on the city centre side and walk across the street to the ocial tourist information centre (see Tourist information). Lockers for luggage storage are located on the far east side of the station, but it might take a while to nd an empty locker and even more time to gure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit card. Place your belongings in a locker and close the door. Find the nearest keypad that corresponds with the numbered section of lockers you have chosen. Conrm that the locker number listed is the locker you have chosen and then swipe your credit card. Just stick it in the slot and pull it out. A ticket good for 24 hours will be ed. When you want to remove your luggage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker will automatically open. Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, but if youre staying in another section of town such as the Museum District you can take one of the many trams out- side. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate the card for you, but you have to place it up against one of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station and walk across the street to the GVB oce (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side of the station on the River IJ. 6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driv- ing within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the pre- ferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the only way to truly experience the city. PUBLIC TRANSPORT GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains us- ing just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options and you can upload them with travel credits at special ma- chines located at stations and even in most supermarkets. You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144 and 168 hours, which aord you unlimited travel on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an economical way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can be pur- chased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors, but a premium is charged for this ticket. It costs 2.70 for one hour of unlimited travel on dierent buses and trains in the city that begins once you board your selected mode of transportation and check in by placing it next to the scan- ners near the doors. You must also scan your card when leaving the vehicle. BICYCLE RENTAL BLACK BIKES A full day bike rental will set you back only 10 and it has the longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht 282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, info@hetzwartefetsenplan. nl, www.black-bikes.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Also on Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 88; Maasstraat 106 - 108; Tweede Helmersstraat 49; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA HOLLAND RENT A BIKE Although the name may not be the most original, this companys service is outstanding. It rents and repairs bikes, steps and scooters.QA-2, Damrak 247, tel. (+31) 206 22 32 07. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA RENT A DUTCH BIKE This place has everything from bikes and scooters to tandem, cargo or kids bikes. Deposit and ID required. QE-8, Overtoom 45, tel. (+31) 206 83 33 69, www. dutchbikeamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Reguliers Dwarsstraat 97. J YELLOW BIKE Yellow Bike has been renting bicycles and oering com- prehensive bike tours of Amsterdam since 1990. You can rent a bike for as little as 12/day, but if youd prefer a tour, professional sta will guide you through the city centre or take you across the IJ to explore the dikes, country cot- tages and wetlands of Noord.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, tel. (+31) 206 20 69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22. A BOAT RENTAL BOATY Why take a canal boat tour when you can rent your own boat and ferry around your friends? You dont even need a licence to drive these electric powered vessels! The com- pany is located near the Hotel Okura on the Jozef Israels- kade.QJozef Israelskade, tel. (+31) 627 14 94 93, www. boaty.nl. SLOEP DELEN This company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at Nassaukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a date and time online. All boats are powered by (environ- mentally friendly) electricity and theyre easy to navigate even without any prior experience.QC-6, Nassaukade 69, tel. (+31) 204 19 10 07, info@sloepdelen.nl, www. sloepdelen.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 50/hour. BUSES City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as a nal option once the trams have stopped running. Night buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes con- necting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein. You cant spit without hitting a bike in Amsterdam CASH OR CREDIT? That the Dutch are a frugal lot has never been up for debate, but, as it turns out, this aects your lifestyle as much as it does theirs. Although it could just be a much deserved backlash against banking institutions in the wake of the nancial crisis, more and more cafs are reluctant to accept credit or bank cards at their estab- lishments. In less extreme cases, restaurants require a minimum bill of at least 10 - 20 to accept a card as they have to pay a commission for these transactions. Still other places only accept cash, while major super- markets in the city centre such as Albert Heijn only ac- cept local Dutch bankcards. Just make sure you always have some cash on you because the Dutchman pour- ing your beer behind the bar wants to save 0.50. Summer 2014 7 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Arriving & Getting Around CAR RENTAL AVIS Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories and are available from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aank- omstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl. Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A SIXT RENT A CAR Straight opposite Central Station this company rents all kind of cars and vans. Also at Schiphol Airport and other Amsterdam locations.QF-5, Prins Hendrikkade 20a, tel. (+31) 206 24 29 55, www.sixt.nl. From 33 a day. FERRIES Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord on the other side of the River IJ. In total there are six ferry lines which transport pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes mopeds. All of the lines are free. AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL Amsterdam in particular and the Netherlands in general have a long seafaring tradition. Passenger Terminal Am- sterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year. The striking architectural monument is within walking dis- tance of the Central Station and only 25km from the North Sea. The cosy hallway oers a giant chess game, some food venues, a functional kids corner and a luggage room with instructions in six languages.QO-1, Piet Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, fax (+31 ) 205 09 10 09, www. ptamsterdam.com. TJAL METRO The metro is fast and ecient. Its a combination of under- ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their nal destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Iso- latorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future, hence all of the construction around town. TAXIS ELECTRIC TAXI COMPANY TAXI-E This cab company uses environmentally-friendly electric cars. Free wi- is included in the price, credit cards are ac- cepted and it oers cheap rates to the airport.Qtel. (+31) 881 00 44 44, www.taxi-e.nl. AW TCA TAXI This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Sta- tion, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederik- splein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them and order a cab any time of the day or night. Drivers are safe and all of TCAs cars have permits that allow them to ride on tram tracks, which is essential during rush hour. Qtel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl. Open 24hrs. WATERTAXI Water taxis can pick you up and drop you o at virtually any waterside address throughout Amsterdam and its en- virons including the smallest of Amsterdam canals.QF-5, Stationsplein 8, tel. (+31) 205 35 63 63, www.water-taxi. nl. Prices: 1.75 - 2.25/minute. Maximum 8 people. TRAINS Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for getting around and there are three types of trains available. The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Bel- gium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity oers fast connections between Dutch cities. Most of the stations are centrally located. You can easily nd all train departures as well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. The yellow timetables in the station show departure times and plat- form numbers. The route is shown at the top of each board. Tickets come in many forms. You have plenty of choices varying from singles and day returns, a weekend return or a day travel card. There are NS ticket machines at every station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro PIN at the NS Tickets & Service desk at major stations and the machines at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central also accept credit cards. TRAMS Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They provide the best way of getting around the city and run from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than 10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram drivers. They cost 2.70, but if you plan on travelling a lot youre better o purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7. You have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when entering and exiting the vehicle. Take the free ferry across the river to Noord M.Zaprauskis 8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS On public holidays shops and museums often close earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools, city councils, post oces and banks are closed and some shops and restaurants may also take the day o. January 1 New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag) April 3, 2015 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag) April 5, 2015 Easter Sunday (Pasen) April 6, 2015 Easter Monday (Pasen) April 27, 2015 Kings Day (Koningsdag) May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid) May 4 Remembrance of the Dead (Nationale Herdenking) May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid) May 9 Mothers Day (Moederdag) May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag) May 23 - 24 Whitsun (Pinksteren) June 20 Fathers Day (Vaderdag) June 26 Veterans Day (Veteranendag) September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag) December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas) December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis) December 31 New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag) Read on and nd out why the Dutch allow people to smoke joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available here. ALCOHOL Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken, Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on oer at most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that spe- cialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll be carded, so always bring identication. This holds true for supermarkets and o-licences, too. If youre a little too tipsy youll probably be asked (rmly, yet kindly) to leave the premises and if you dont cooperate you could end up spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank. CYCLING Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basi- cally as at as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection of cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars, trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your eld of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be just as dangerous. Although parents are condent enough in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore trac rules and basically ride wherever they like often caus- ing mayhem on the streets. MAIL & PHONES All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all tel- ephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) pre- x, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. MONEY Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopt- ed the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collec- tion of 200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the train station you can nd a GWK Travelex shop (Station- splein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00). Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and Mas- terCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some money with you as some bars only accept cash and others require a minimum purchase of 15 - 20 to use a card. Decorate your bike or it will disappear among the thousands Summer 2014 9 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Amsterdam Basics PROSTITUTION It may surprise you to know that the profession that has helped to make Amsterdam a household word across the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the Dutch did what they always do when confronted with a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red Light district only rousted sex workers if they became too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction, but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo. Be respectful and, whatever you do, dont take any pho- tographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if you want some photographic evidence of your visit to Europes erotic pleasure capital. For more information see Nightlife. ROADS Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (its compulsory in the Netherlands to have your car checked for faults at least once every two years) trac quite fre- quently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The ma- jority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and considering the severity of trac nes, this seems wise enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you 160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared to pay 180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be ned. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the right side of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on motorways! You dont want to know how many tourists are plucked o the road by police each year. SMOKING Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Nether- lands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This is partially because the government started a huge cam- paign to make people aware of the eects of smoking on their health. These days you can have a wild night out and come home without your hair and clothes reeking of ciga- rette smoke. For some this is an enormous benet and oth- ers (read: smokers) nd it a pain and banish themselves to the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear rules you may suddenly nd yourself in a smoke-lled pub. This is usually in bars with just a single sta member: the boss. Or you may nd yourself in a pub that outs the ban on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you. If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates this, then the manager will receive a ne upon inspection. The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of marijuana (see Coeeshops). AMSTERDAM IN THE MOVIES Sure, Scarlett Johansson is pretty on screen. And Cath- erine Zeta-Jones, shes okay too. But lm directors know all too well that when shooting scenes in the Red Light District or on its endless canals, Amsterdam is the real star. The city has been the site of many Hollywood and European art house productions. Below is a list of pretty movie locations across town. Feel free to visit them and honour the genuine movie star: Amsterdam. Diamonds are Forever (1971) Gorgeously made of white painted wood, the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) in the city centre was made be- fore World War II and, like its bigger brother the Blauwe Brug, joins the two banks of the River Amstel. Deco- rated with festive LED lights today, the bridge served as a location for the James Bond classic Diamonds are For- ever back in 1971. But our suave British hero, played by the only real Bond, Sean Connery, galavanted around other places in the Dutch capital, too. Take a walk along the Reguliersgracht (where Bond Girl Tiany Case lived) or visit the Brouwersgracht in the Jordaan, another fa- mous location. Girl with a Pearl Earring (2003) This ctional tale by Tracy Chevalier about real-life Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer is set in the Nether- lands and named after a famous Dutch painting. So why do the characters in Girl with a Pearl Earring speak English? Ah, international appeal, of course. But you have to give it to the producers for lming the major- ity of the scenes in the Netherlands. In addition to the Royal Palace on Dam Square, director Peter Webber de- cided to grace Delft (famous for its blue Delftware) with its prominent cast which included Scarlett Johansson as the girl and Colin Firth as the painter. Mindhunters (2004) It is no coincidence that two Dutch actors, the late An- tonie Kamerling and Danil Boissevain, played cameo roles in the American blockbuster Mindhunters, which was partly shot in Amsterdam. The cast of the Christian Slater-starring thriller presumably had a great time shooting in Amsterdam-Noord. Whereas Mindhunt- ers is set on an island and tells about a traitor amidst a group of FBI agents, the scene of Amsterdam-Noord is less treacherous. Its usually ooded by hipster events, so dont forget to wear a knit hat, even in summer. Oceans Twelve (2004) Apparently, everybody insists that Brad Pitt owns an apartment in Amsterdam. Pitt has debunked the story, but admits he still has an old bike parked somewhere in the city from back in his youth (the movie star is, after all, a very spry 50). The shooting of Oceans Twelve (the sequel to heist movie Oceans Eleven), may attract you to the Dampkring Coeeshop on the Handboogstraat in the centre, but more famous are the scenes at the Pulitzer Hotel at the edge of the Jordaan. 10 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery E Live music B Outside seating X Smoking section S Takeaway W Wi Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's visitors want to see and it's also the place where most people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually quite large, so you may want to use public transportation to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infa- mous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping is only a short walk across the square from the station as are the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafs, bars and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo and the Hortus Botanical Gardens. ARRIVING IN CENTRUM If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams No.1, 2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and 17 will take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther aeld to the Plantage area. ACCOMMODATION Centrum has it all from hostels to award-winning design hotels, but rates can be obscenely high so book in advance. CREAM OF THE CROP NH BARBIZON PALACE One of Amsterdams premiere hotels, the Barbizon Palace began its existence over 100 years ago when 19 historic buildings were converted into elegant accommodation. Due to its unique construction, some rooms make use of their ancient timbers and oors, while others have a more contemporary feel and the executive oor has been re- cently renovated for guests that require a more modern, minimalist dcor.QB-1, Prins Hendrikkade 59-72, tel. (+31) 205 56 45 64, www.nh-hotels.com. 274 rooms. PHARUFLGKDX hhhhh NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY What began in the 19th century as a coee house on the Warmoesstraat expanded over time into the massive ho- tel you see now on the Dam. Due to its age and historic signicance, the Krasnapolsky hasnt conformed to the modern NH hotel group style and many of its 468 rooms have retained some elements of their old world elegance. That said, most of the accommodation includes huge at screen TVs and king size beds and the rooms in the new wing have a more contemporary look. .QA-2, Dam 9, tel. (+31) 205 54 91 11, www.nh-hotels.com. 468 rooms. PJHA6FLKXW hhhhh BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS HOTEL SEVEN ONE SEVEN What do world renowned celebrities like Schubert, Pi- casso, Tolkien, Shakespeare and Charles Dickens have in common? All of these men have a suite named after them in this boutique hotel. Although boutique hotels are not at all scarce in the area, Seven One Seven is still a trend setter. Its stylish and comfortable rooms oer big beds, free wi-, climate control and a mini-bar stocked with complimen- tary drinks, but bear in mind that luxurious surroundings dont come cheap here. This historic canal house doesnt have a restaurant, but the neighbourhood is teeming with bars and cafs.QPrinsengracht 717, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 17, www.717hotel.nl. 9 rooms (rooms and suites from 350). PJHALGBXW hhhh HOTEL THE EXCHANGE The people who brought you the Lloyd Hotel in Amster- dam East have expanded their unique hospitality concept to the city centre. They believe, and rightly so, that style should be available to all, so the hotel oers rooms of varying sizes and levels of comfort for all budgets in one building. Five-star rooms are more spacious and oer more amenities than a one-star room, but all accommoda- tion includes cutting-edge interior design. The New York Times even praised the hotels designers writing: they ac- cessorized each room as if it were a model.QDamrak 50, tel. (+31) 205 61 36 99, www.exchangeamsterdam.com. 61 rooms (1-star from 82, 2-star from 88, 3-star from 92, 4-star from 115, 5-star from 138). Many of Amsterdams hotels are located in historic buildings Summer 2014 11 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum THE DYLAN AMSTERDAM If you appreciate luxury and style and, more importantly, you can aord them both, then look no further than The Dylan, which is tucked away in an historic location beside the Keizersgracht. All of its design rooms and suites include at screen TVs, free wi-, Bose sound systems with iPod docking stations, mini-bar, safe and private bathrooms, not to mention bathrobes and slippers. You can also dine on French cuisine at its Michelin-starred Vinkeles restau- rant or have a meal at the more casual OCCO brasserie. A courtyard garden terrace is also available, weather permit- ting.QKeizersgracht 384, tel. (+31) 205 30 20 10, www. dylanamsterdam.com. 40 rooms (doubles from 275, duplex from 375, superior from 450, suites from 500). PTJHAFGBKW hhhhh MID-RANGE HOTEL CITADEL This three-star hotel located a short distance from the Central Station looks like standard, tourist-class accommo- dation thats been upgraded and modernised to reect more contemporary tastes. That said, some rooms such as the triples still look a bit old-fashioned, so we recommend the doubles decorated in subtle greys with the occasional ash of red for dramatic eect and a large black and white photograph above the bed. Flat screen TVs, private bath- rooms with showers and hairdryers, phone and safe also come standard.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 98-100, tel. (+31) 206 27 38 82, www.hotelcitadel.nl. 38 rooms. AKW hhh HOTEL SINT NICOLAAS Although this unique circular, tower-like building was once used as the Amsterdam harbour oce in the 18th and 19th centuries, it now houses an excellent, yet aord- able design hotel a 3-minute walk from the Central Sta- tion. The bar/reception area with its huge replace, fresh owers and modern, but cosy furnishings including lap- top stations for busy or bored guests will no doubt dazzle you and its rooms, each designed in a dierent fashion, range in style from downright funky to sober minimal- ism. The sta are ultra-friendly.QA-1, Spuistraat 1A, tel. (+31) 206 26 13 84, www.hotelnicolaas.nl. 27 rooms. PAIW hhh BUDGET A-TRAIN HOTEL If youre a rail enthusiast there really is no other option for ac- commodation in Amsterdam than the kitschy A-Train Hotel. Not only is it located across the street from the Central Station, but a rail theme also dominates every aspect of the three-star hotel including the breakfast area, where you dine in rail car booths and the miniature train models and memorabilia cov- ering every surface of the building. Rooms are small but oer private bathrooms with shower and hairdryer as well as a TV, phone and safe. The friendly sta complete the experience. QA-1, Prins Hendrikkade 23, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 42, www. atrainhotel.com. 34 rooms. JAKX hhh BACKSTAGE HOTEL AMSTERDAM Its really hard to nd good accommodation in Amsterdam for a price that wont leave you feeling like youve been mugged, but, somehow, this hip hotel manages to do just that. It keeps its rates surprisingly low and its guests happy with free wi-, iPod docking stations in each room, trendy Flight Case furni- ture and a great location thats close enough to the bars and clubs of Leidseplein, but just far enough away so you dont ac- tually hear all of the nightlife thats associated with the square. .QE-7, Leidsegracht 114, tel. (+31) 206 24 40 44, www. backstagehotel.com. 22 rooms (22 Total rooms ). (singles from 59, doubles/twin from 88, triples from 138, quads and quintuples from 198). TJALGW hh BED & BREAKFAST LA VIE EN ROSE B&B AND APARTMENTS Conveniently located in an historic Amsterdam building between the Central Station and Dam Square, La Vie en Rose oers two beautifully decorated and aordably priced apartments that include loads of modern amenities like at screen TV, stylish furniture and dcor, kitchenette and free wireless internet access. Thankfully, many of the original design features of the interiors have also been preserved so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. Amsterdam has some strange rules regarding its buildings, so a maximum of only two people are allowed to stay in each apartment. QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 90B, tel. (+31) 651 59 57 87, www.amsterdamapartmentlavieenrose.com. 2 rooms (2 apartments from 115). J6LNGW HOSTELS BOBS YOUTH HOSTEL Only a short walk from the Central Station, this legend- ary Amsterdam hostel is one of the few of its genre that specialises in walk-in business, so as long as you show up before evening theres a good chance youll get a bed here even on a weekend. Rooms are basic with bunk beds, but each dorm has its own washroom. Unfortunately, there was no hot water when we stayed there. Perhaps it just takes a really long time to reach the third oor.QA-1, Nieu- wezijds Voorburgwal 92, tel. (+31) 206 23 00 63, www. bobsyouthhostel.nl. 144 beds. A A garbage barge removes sunken bicycles and boats from the canal 12 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum RESTAURANTS Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the following is a tiny selection of some of our favourite res- taurants. For hundreds more restaurant reviews visit www. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com. BAGELS BAGELS & BEANS Were not exactly sure where the beans t into the equa- tion, but if you like plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything, cinnamon and even gluten-free (whatever that means) bagels with a wide variety of toppings from hummus, tuna salad or Parma ham to traditional cream cheese, then head over to this popular chain of bagel bistros. You can also drink freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, although, try as we might, we cant seem to nd the ap- peal of cucumber juice. You can also take advantage of free wi-.QA-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206 38 07 88, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Open 09:01 - 17:32, Sat, Sun 09:58 - 18:02. Also at Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30 55 08; Haarlemmerdijk 122, tel. (+31) 203 30 41 02. Open 08:59 - 17:31, Sun 10:02 - 17:01; Ferdinand Bolstraat 70, tel. (+31) 206 72 16 10. Open 08:31 - 17:32, Sun 08:58 - 18:01; and many other locations. (5). ASW BARBECUE CAF DE KLOS Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imi- tation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their chunky frames, the sta assured us that its actually a restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Or- der huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins, t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster, which is owned by the same people.QF-7, Kerkstraat 41 - 43, tel. (+31) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (12 - 22). BRAZILIAN DO BRASIL A lot of cows sacriced their lives to create the interior of this steakhouse and Brazilian restaurant. Although it ap- pears that most people opt for the cheaper grilled meat specials like unlimited spare ribs, some more authentic dishes such as tut mineiro (grilled pork sausages, fried eggs, rice, vegetables and black beans) can be had for roughly 20. Real Brazilian Brahma beer is also available for a tidy sum of money, so you might want to stick with the Dutch stu. Photos of carnival stars and the old coun- try line the walls, but its the furry hides covering all of the seats that really grab your attention.QF-8, Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 86, tel. (+31) 206 22 63 32, www. dobrasil.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20). ABW CAFETERIAS LA PLACE ample food from several dierent buets that each has its own speciality from seafood, pizzas and sandwiches to steaks and Asian stir fries all cooked to order. You can also drop by for delicious desserts and coee and enjoy them on the balcony overlooking Amsterdams busiest shop- ping street below. With seating for over 300 people you can choose the style that suits you best such as antique tables with marble tops or modern furniture in the atrium. QA-1, Kalverstraat 201 - 203 / Rokin 164, tel. (+31) 206 20 23 64, www.laplace.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also at H-4, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23 08 70. (5 - 12). AS CHINESE NAM KEE In our estimation the best Chinese places have crispy duck and pork hanging in their shop front windows and this popular place located opposite the FGS He Hua Temple in Chinatown certainly ts the bill. Order exotic dishes with prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the culinary shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food hanging in the window which is delicious and costs only half of what you would spend on the seafood dishes. The maitre d loves to sing to both the patrons and himself and is often caught in the act of singing to no one in particular. QB-1, Zeedijk 111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34 70, www. namkee.net. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18). NEW KING We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New King, because unlike so many other restaurants in China- town, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book charac- ters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasnt a case of interior design prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reason- able, too! Order whole sh, steaming bowls of seafood, crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic dishes like frog legs.QB-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21 80, www.newking.nl. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A Amsterdams Chinatown is full of great restaurants and shops Summer 2014 13 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum COFFEE & TEA GREENWOODS ENGLISH TEAROOM Take a seat in its cosy, rustically decorated interior and order a hot drink with something sweet, sample one of its healthy sandwiches or try a delicious breakfast like the omelette with mozzarella and chorizo sausage, full Eng- lish or eggs Benedict. Space is limited, especially at the weekend when droves of people come here for brunch, so it would be wise to call ahead and make a reservation. During the summer Greenwoods also has a lovely terrace on the canal.QA-2, Singel 103, tel. (+31) 206 23 70 71, www.greenwoods.eu. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (5 - 9). B DINERS SOUP KITCHEN No, its not the kind of soup kitchen you might have in mind where the homeless and drug addicts queue up for free food. For 4.50 you can choose from six dierent soups including French onion, tomato, mushroom, spinach, tom kha kai or sweet potato. You can also try burgers, a weak interpretation of an English breakfast, omelettes and lled baguettes. If you stick to the soup youll be alright and its lo- cation on a corner near the station guarantees good people watching. QA-1, Nieuwendijk 50, tel. (+31) 205 28 71 75, www.soupkitchen.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00. (5). S DUTCH HAESJE CLAES This classic Dutch restaurant spans six historic Amsterdam houses, many of which still retain their original architec- tural features including medieval paintings, stained glass windows and tile tableaux. Order traditional dishes like pea soup with sausages and salted herring, not to mention three dierent kinds of stamppot (potato and vegetable mash). The service is a bit sti and formal, but the selec- tion of beer from local city breweries De Prael and t IJ is as good as it gets. Naturally, a good wine list is also available. QA-2, Spuistraat 273 - 275, tel. (+31) 206 24 99 98, www. haesjeclaes.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 22). AB T LIEVERDJE This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up classic homemade Dutch dishes as well as Indonesian- style fried rice for aordable prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and the locally made De Prael brew are also at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident cat might choose to sit in your lap if youre male. Appar- ently, it doesnt like women or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier guarantee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek eating times youll have to sit at the bar if you only want a drink. Tables are reserved for hungry patrons. QA-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11 56, www.tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 12). B FAST FOOD GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA The exalted name is a little optimistic and the faux brick walls arent fooling anyone, but the shoarma is pretty good, even at a steep 5 for a small pita. That said, the sauce is truly spicy and the sta are constantly in motion cutting meat and serving inebriated pub crawlers in the middle of the night.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 56, tel. (+31) 206 20 48 28. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. (5 - 7). S MANNEKEN PIS Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinat- ing rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50 and one of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional may- onnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condi- ment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel and kroket can also be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (3 - 5). S ICE CREAM IJSCUYPJE Even boats dock nearby on the Prinsengracht to enjoy some of Amsterdams best ice cream and sorbet and with avours like marzipan, coconut and raspberry, you wont mind the queue of salivating patrons either. Prices are aordable, but theres no seating so youll have to take it away. QE-6, Prinsengracht 292, www.ijscuypje.nl. Open 13:00 - 21:00. TJS METROPOLITAN DELI Although most venues on Warmoesstraat lure you inside with large beer selections, erotic gadgets or a whi of pot smoke, Metropolitan Deli tempts passers-by with a ow- ing chocolate fountain and a huge display of freshly made gelato in dozens of avours from pistachio and hazelnut to cheesecake and even stroopwafel (caramel cookie). You can also buy gourmet chocolates and chocolate avoured beer! Recommended.QWarmoesstraat 135, tel. (+31) 203 30 19 55, www.metropolitandeli.nl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AS Outdoor terrace in the Jordaan 14 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum INDIAN KAMASUTRA Although most people are too distracted by the coe- shops, sex shops and bars in the Red Light District to no- tice this Indian restaurant, this appropriately named place, given its location, is well worth a visit for anyone craving a curry or a vindaloo. Order a Kingsher or Cobra beer and take your pick of delicious Indian cuisine, which is pre- pared by Indian chefs. If you dont believe us just take the stairs to the cellar downstairs and youll see them toiling away in the kitchen.QB-1, Lange Niezel 9, tel. (+31) 206 26 00 03, www.restaurantkamasutra.nl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (15 - 20). AV INDONESIAN KANTJIL & DE TIJGER Stylish, yet casual, Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if youre in the mood for tasty Indonesian cuisine from local favourites like a variety of rijsttafels and nasi goring to deli- cious desserts such as the green Javanese pancake with coconut and palm sugar syrup. The exotic smells of the sauces and seasonings are the rst thing one notices upon entering as meals are prepared in an open-plan kitchen to the left. Although the place does include some traditional design features like a tiger, palm trees and bamboo, the interior is generally a more modern aair. On a hot day its delicious organic juices or the lemongrass ice tea really hit the spot.QA-3, Spuistraat 291 - 293, tel. (+31) 206 20 09 94, www.kantjil.nl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 25). AB ITALIAN ASSAGGI With many cuisines a purely traditional menu is a sign of poverty or laziness, but thats not true of Italian food. The homemade pasta at Assagi is served in a wide variety of styles and its seafood dishes are particularly good, not to mention aordable. The sta is friendly, the atmosphere is pleasant and the desserts are excellent. Make sure to save some room for the divine lemon pie.QD-5, Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 6, tel. (+31) 204 20 55 89, www. assaggirestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Wed 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 22). JGB KX BAR ITALIA This restaurant and espresso bar has a somewhat bipolar re and ice character. Its both the hottest spot to eat Ital- ian food this season and also the coolest place to hang for after-work drinks. With personnel shouting in Italian and exquisite chandeliers lighting your traditionally baked piz- zas, this venue is a great exotic spot to take a date, unless of course she chooses the lobster, which will set you back at least 35.QA-3, Rokin 81 - 83, tel. (+31) 206 20 24 42, www.bar-italia.nl. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. (21 - 26). PJAIGK KOREAN YOKIYO Take the steps downstairs to the entrance of this authentic Korean restaurant and you wont be disappointed. Serv- ing dinner the Korean way, Yokiyo teaches you to share and ll its DIY-wraps of lettuce with the little snacks of your choice. This method of eating might not be perfect for a date scenario (think of the horrors of Korean kimchi between your teeth at the long and less than private tables), but Yokiyo pleasantly surprises with its simplicity. The arty metal lamps dont hurt either.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 67, tel. (+31) 203 31 45 62, www.yokiyo.nl. Open 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJAGKW MEXICAN LOS PILONES Although quite colourful, and denitely not lacking in the dcor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of Mexi- can wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one of the sports icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, soft shell tacos and enchiladas, but the food is good and the salsa that comes with the gratis chips is surprisingly spicy. Get here early or youll be stuck on the wrong side of the border.QD-5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. (20 - 25). PTJAGBK PANCAKES THE PANCAKE BAKERY Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist trap, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes and thats pretty much it. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup with a wooden spoon as well as a container of powdered sugar, the walls are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber ceilings are simply charming, but the aroma of pancakes on the griddle can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cinna- mon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury. QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25 13 33, www. pancake.nl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15) People watching on Leidseplein M.Zaprauskis Summer 2014 15 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum PIZZA LA PERLA A couple of guys frantically stoke a wood-fuelled brick pizza oven to keep up with the large demand for thin-crust pizzas that have locals queued up outside. But this isnt a fancy, sit- down establishment, although it does oer two counters and some stools, which are almost always occupied. On weekend nights, people order their gourmet pizzas baked with real Mozzarella di Bufala di Campana cheese and then sip a glass of wine or an Italian Dolimiti micro brew outside until one of the master bakers runs over with their order. QD-5, Tweede Tu- indwarsstraat 14, tel. (+31) 206 24 88 28, www.pizzaperla. nl. Open 17:00 - 22:00. (10 - 12). AW QUICK EATS CAF DECK5 Although you shouldnt expect haute cuisine, this caf is located on the rooftop terrace of one of Amsterdams most unusual buildings - Science Center NEMO. You can order sausage rolls, hot dogs, sandwiches with tuna, ham, eggs or cheese or sample one of four day-glow coloured slush puppy drinks, while admiring an amazing view of the city centre. Beer and wine is also available as well as ice cream, but bear in mind that youll have to climb up some stairs to get there, unless you want to buy a ticket to the museum.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, www.e-nemo.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon. (2 - 4). AB FEBO This chain of snack bars, or rather snack shops, oers deep- fried croquettes, frikandel and burgers promptly placed into vending machines right after being made, which probably sounds strange to tourists and thats precisely why you just have to experience it. We prefer a spicy Dutch sausage (frikandel) with an order of frites and mayo before or after a night on the town, but others swear by the satekroket. The snack options seem limitless here so deposit your coins and see what comes out. Also available at over 20 locations throughout town.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33, tel. (+31) 206 26 03 60, www.febodelekkerste.nl. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. (1 - 3). JGS STEAKHOUSES ARGENTINO LUNA Uruguayan footballer Luiz Suarezs shirt decorates one of the walls of this wonderful restaurant. Its not big and the tables are really cramped, but that seems only to con- tribute to the cosy atmosphere. South Americans from all over the Netherlands come here for the imported steaks prepared by Argentinian grill masters and a cold Quilmes beer. We recommend the entrecote steak with Roquefort sauce and the Argentinian coee with a shot of Legui liquor. Enjoy live music on Fridays and Saturdays. QD-5, Lindengracht 152, tel. (+31) 206 27 41 49, www. restaurantluna.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 30). TJA6UENGBKS LA BRASA Its hard to choose a steakhouse in Amsterdam, as they are located on nearly every street corner, but this one has certainly tried to get a leg up on its competition as far as interior design goes. Every square meter of this place from the walls to the ceiling is covered in wide, roughly cut wooden planks, wagon wheels serve as chandeliers and cowhides dangle from every available surface like the set of an old western. You can of course get steaks of varying sizes and cuts, but we recommend a splurge as the special is tasty, but on the small side. Tuna steaks, prawns and other seafood are also on oer as well as Argentine beer.QB-1, Zeedijk 97, tel. (+31) 203 30 63 31, www.labrasa.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (12 - 24). A Cafe Deck 5s rooftop terrace at Science Center NEMO DigiDaan BITTER... BALLS? The name bitterballen, or bitter balls, conjures up all kinds of images and not entirely wholesome ideas from sour edibles hardly t for consumption to a sex toy you might nd in the Red Light district. In fact, these deep-fried morsels of God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are on oer in nearly every caf throughout the country. Youll see rened people in suits gulping down these breadcrumb encrusted snacks at gallery openings just as often as you see construction workers slowly chew- ing them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly you might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley, onion, spices and other mystery ingredients is often served at a temperature usually only seen in magma chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates inter- esting facial expressions, unusual sucking sounds and the inevitable grasping for any cold liquid available. If youre too scared to try this national treat, watch our video at www.inyourpocket.com/Netherlands/Amster- dam/Restaurants. If you do decide to give it a go, then dont forget to dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard. 16 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum THAI BIRD This Thai restaurant was one of the rst ethnic eateries to open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims to prepare authentic meals that are even better than the stu youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure, but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights mixed with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14 42, www.thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17). PTJAGKS CHAO PHRAYA The popularity of this restaurant may owe more to its prime location on the Nieuwmarkt, especially in summer, than to its lacklustre service, which was curt and lacking the smile for which the Thai people are so famous. The red and green curries, seafood and assorted fried rice dishes are, however, tasty and free wi- and sports on TV are also nothing to sneeze at. The shrimp with noodles dinner was huge, but a bit short on the delicious sea creatures.QB-2v, Nieuwmarkt 8 - 10, tel. (+31) 204 27 63 34. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (12 - 18). ABW TIBETAN SNOW LION The otherwise ordinary beige interior of this restaurant is punctuated by colourful images of the Buddha on one side and the Dalai Lama on the other. The waitress dressed in traditional garb had decidedly Tibetan features, which gave us our rst clue that we may have come to the right place. Order classic drinks like butter tea or something with a little more kick and then move on to vegetarian or meat dishes with curry, noodles or rice or try the special beef dish which was incredibly spicy just the way we like it. But dont worry. The sta are kind enough to ask how hot you like your food when they take your order. Compli- mentary spicy, deep-fried noodles on each table were also a nice touch.QE-4, Haarlemmerstraat 50, tel. (+31) 204 22 77 76. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (15) TURKISH GLLOGLU All the goodies that the Turkish culinary tradition has to oer can be found at this popular Amsterdam institution. Since 1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anatolias most famous treat. The exquisite avour of these recipes have be- come so beloved that Gllolu has the honour of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world with establish- ments in dozens of countries including Libya. You can also enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and all can be enjoyed with real Turkish coee. QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. JKS UPMARKET RESTAURANTS &SAMHOUD PLACES Israeli chef Moshik Roth has brought the fascinating world of molecular gastronomy to the Oosterdokseiland, not far from the Central Station. Although a three- or six-course meal will cost you roughly the same as a one-night stay at a fancy Amsterdam hotel, this chic hotspot is a must for true foodies. If you appreciate good food, but not the price tag then reserve a spot in the lounge, which has a much more aordable menu. Did we mention that &Samhoud Places has two Michelin stars?QG-4, Oosterdokskade 5, tel. (+31) 202 60 20 94, www.samhoudplaces.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue 18:30 - 01:00, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (three-course meal 130). AL Rembrandtplein is full of cafs and terraces M.Zaprauskis CAFS & CAFETRIAS The Oxford English Dictionary denes a caf as a small restaurant selling light meals and drinks but also adds that in North America its a bar or nightclub, while in South Africa a caf is a shop selling sweets, cigarettes, newspapers, etc. To add to this confusion it also men- tions that the word is derived from the French mean- ing coee or coee house. Obviously in Amsterdam coeeshops are something entirely dierent. So per- haps the Anglo-Saxons are to blame and simply cant properly dene this most popular of establishments. But surely the Dutch can, right? Well, not really. In fact, locals often refer to bars as cafs and, to add even more confusion to this complicated linguistic problem, they call what the English consider a caf a lunchroom. Americans would probably call these lunchrooms cafeterias. Confused yet? In this guide weve tried to simplify things by listing places where you put your own food on a tray as a cafeteria and a caf as a laid back venue thats good for a coee and a light meal or breakfast. Weve also made a category for classic cafs that includes historic institutions with lots of local col- our. Naturally, you can nd many of these caf qualities at a diner or a greasy spoon, too, but well refrain from opening up that can of worms. Summer 2014 17 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum CAFS Amsterdam caf culture is simply fantastic. You can sit in an historic establishment thats over 100 years old or sip a special coee poured by a professional barrista. CAF FONTEYN The faded oral print wallpaper and wobbly chairs might make one suspect that Fonteyn has fallen on hard times, but that couldnt be farther from the truth. A laid back atmo- sphere, a good selection of beers including one or two brews from the IJ brewery and a huge summer terrace on the Nieu- wmarkt make it popular with locals and tourists alike, espe- cially bohemian 20-somethings. You can also order vitamin drinks, 100% fruit juices like apple-rhubarb and cocktails after 16:00. Sandwiches and Dutch snacks can also be had, but it doesnt serve proper dinners. An iced cappuccino does, how- ever, hit the spot on a hot and sunny day.QB-2, Nieuwmarkt 13 - 15, tel. (+31) 204 22 35 99, www.cafefonteyn.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. BW CAF GEORGE This stylish caf is the perfect place to spend a lazy day with a good book. With views of the Leidsegracht outside, an industrial interior of white tile walls, long leather bench- es and even a dog area, not to mention great food from eggs Benedict or eggs cooked any way you like to gour- met sandwiches and salads, George has all bases covered. Top shelf alcohol can also be had as well as Champagne. QE-8, Leidsegracht 84, tel. (+31) 206 26 08 02, www. cafegeorge.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 14). AB CAF KOBALT Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails, this incredibly popular eating and drinking establish- ment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn oors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know that a table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy aordable Dutch and international cuisine not to mention a good selection of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can also listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays from 17:00.QE-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www. cafekobalt.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB CAF SONNEVELD Located on a busy intersection in the heart of the Jordaan, this classic caf is always alive with the din of happy locals sipping wine, beer and cocktails. Although a great pit stop for a drink, Sonneveld also serves good food from break- fasts and sandwiches to steaks and even seafood. The huge wooden bar nearly separates the caf in two so you can sit in the sunny area or in the slightly darker section on the other side. Naturally, in summer a seat outside is your best bet.QD-6, Egelantiersgracht 72-74, tel. (+31) 204 23 42 87, www.cafesonneveld.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AB CLASSIC CAFS BEURS VAN BERLAGE If youd like to see where locals eat, drink and chat over beer, wine, breakfast food and gourmet sandwiches, then this little slice of history housed in the monumental Beurs van Berlage building is the place to go. Not only can you get a good meal, but you can also admire this legendary example of Amsterdam School architecture and design from the inside with its vaulted ceilings and characteris- tic tile tableaux by Jan Toorop. The acoustics of the hall makes for a boisterous meal among Amsterdammers.QA- 2, Damrak 277 (entrance from Beurseplein), tel. (+31) 205 31 33 55, www.beursvanberlage.nl/caf. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (8 - 15). AB CAF DE ZWART This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multico- loured tile oor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can or- der coee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwich- es are also on oer as well as a large outdoor terrace with great views of the hubbub on the square. Food and drink are surprisingly cheap.QA-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B CAF SCHELTEMA This classic Dutch caf, brown bar and beerhall is so au- thentic its a virtual museum of Amsterdam eating and drinking culture. Its worn wooden tables, oors and wall panelling have been around for ages, not to mention the antique memorabilia that seems to cover every available space. An old stove in the centre of the room keeps pa- trons warm on cold days or perhaps its the jenever and a good selection of Low Country beers that keeps the chill away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main courses are available as well as salads but we recommend the French onion soup or one of its hearty country-style om- elettes.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242, tel. (+31) 206 23 23 23. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 18). Canalside al fresco dining in the city centre 18 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum NIGHTLIFE Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife reviews that weve covered in Amsterdam Centrum. For a full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as videos visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com. ADULT ENTERTAINMENT CASA ROSSO This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action for as long as you like. The programme varies over the course of the evening and ranges in theme from simple strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact, it seems that Casa Rosso provides something for all of the popular fetishes including a husky woman so as not to neglect the chubby chasers among us.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50 including four drinks. A THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for one hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented women who can do all kinds of interesting things with ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say, more dignied atmosphere where guests pay 10 admission to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their moves in various states of undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezi- jds Achterburgwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www. bananenbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Admission: bar 45, club 10. BARS BIBLOS It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or so licence plates from around the globe, currency both young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles, bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular. QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AX BRANDSTOF Located across the street from the re department, Brand- stof (ammable materials) is absolutely incandescent at the weekend and given the huge crowds that congregate here, this trendy caf-cum-club could denitely be a re hazard. Youll have to wait a while until you nally reach the bar, which is dimly illuminated by two large street lamps, so order enough drinks to keep you wet for a while. Although popular with a beautiful, yet casually dressed clientele of 20- and 30-somethings in the evenings, its also a good place for an early breakfast or a light lunch. QD-6, Marnixstraat 357, tel. (+31) 204 22 08 13, www. bar-brandstof.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. AB CAF DE KOE We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends house party except your best buddy probably doesnt have a gi- ant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Alternative rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE-7, Mar- nixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A CAF SOUND GARDEN Being old Seattle sound enthusiasts ourselves, we had to come to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about. Would you believe it that as we walked in, Soundgarden was blaring from the speakers? Okay, it was actually Audioslave, but pretty damn close. If youd like to see what an old squat- ters bar probably looked like before they sold out (but with more Americans), then this is the place to go. You can play pool or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace, which must infuriate the posh neighbours next door in the evenings when things heat up. Inside theres also a smok- ing room, not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins performing in naught but his undies.QD-6, Marnixstraat 164 - 166, tel. (+31) 206 20 28 53, www.cafesoundgarden. nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. EBX RED LIGHT STREETS Dont be one of those tour- ists fresh o the train that asks the nearest local where the Red Light District is located. Its not hard to nd so just walk straight down the Damrak, as most people do, and make a left at the Grasshopper. Then just keep walking pretty much straight ahead until you hit Ou- dezijds Voorburgwal and, one canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is the main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex thea- tres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is also chock full of working girls and you should de- nitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg, Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although not as popular with tourists, theres also a street full of red lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on Oude Nieuwstraat. Summer 2014 19 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum CAF WIENER Wiener is a real drinking mans bar, which is perhaps the reason we stumbled in here on our way home from a long night out. The area behind the bar is crammed with an- cient cassette tapes and photos of half forgotten evenings, while large sized panties and bras are stapled to ceiling a memento of earlier days when buxom women once frequented the place. Today its a venue for smoking ciga- rettes, heavy drinking, darts and Ajax football. Its also usu- ally open quite late.QB-1, Lange Niezel 8, tel. (+31) 206 24 58 09. Open . Closed Tue. X LOUIS BAR (CAF DE DAM) This place claims to be Amsterdams smallest bar and it really is quite tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters adorn the walls and just as many football scarves dangle from the ceiling. American law enforcement patches and plenty of Beatles memorabilia also contribute to the dcor of this iconic watering hole where classic rock seems to dominate the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if a bit pricey. A sign reads Tipping isnt a city in China and if you do decide to leave your bartender some coins hell put them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar.QA-2, Dam- straat 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 53 31. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BS BEER BARS BEER TEMPLE The word temple isnt mere hyperbole. If youre into Amer- ican craft brews you might just be tempted to drop to your knees in awe and reverence at the sight of the huge black- board that lists hundreds of beers by such brewing heavy- weights as Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brooklyn and Flying Dog. Roughly 20 beers are available on draught, including the house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles. If youve had your ll of ales and IPAs, you can try some rare and exotic libations like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Pen- guin brew. Good pub grub like wings, burgers, hot dogs and Trappist cheeses can also be had here.QA-2, Nieu- wezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel. (+31) 206 27 14 27, www. beertemple.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. ABW IN DE WILDEMAN Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see whats on draught at one of Amsterdams best beer bars, which is located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us are a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully the friendly sta can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In de Wildeman oers in bottles. If youre still not convinced, the bartender will pour you a small sample to taste be- fore you order. The spacious interior consists of the usual wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled oor and a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and cheese to frites are also available.QA-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. BILLIARDS & POOL THE POOL HOLE Unlike most pool halls, this one also has plenty of areas where you can sit down and relax without the unmistakable clack-clack of billiard balls smacking into one another. That said, this partially sunken cellar oers half a dozen tables and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with good tunes on the sound system and lots of candlelight.QA-3, Voetboog- straat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.thepoolhole.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB BREW PUBS DE BIERFABRIEK This huge beer hall is so large it has entrances from two parallel streets. Two of the brews on oer are produced on the premises, the dark and slightly sweet Nero and the reddish and fruity Rosso, while the pilsner is made by the family-owned ALFA brewery. In addition to the usual snacks and salads, a few main courses listed on the black- board are available, but youd be mad not to try the Cor- nish game hens, which you can see (and smell) roasting behind a large glass partition. Whole peanuts are piled on each table, too, but dont be afraid to throw the shells on the oor. The sta actually encourages this! You can also skip the middleman and choose a table with your own beer tap.QA-3, Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www. bierfabriek.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. A PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL Hidden in a narrow alley between two of the city centres busiest pedestrian streets youll nd the tasting room of the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the companys beers in an atmosphere thats too hip and positively over- whelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and beer memorabilia await you in a space thats industrial, old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the soundtrack.QB-1, Oudezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. A Proeokaal De Prael is a great place for a local brew 20 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum BROWN BARS CAF CHRIS Only a ve-minute walk from the Anne Frank House is a place that claims to be Amsterdams oldest continuously running caf. Its said that the place came into existence in 1624 as a public bar for the Westerkerks construction workers who recieved their salaries here and probably left most of it on the premises too. The selection of beer is nothing special in comparison to the curiousities of the place itself like the old toilet pull chain on the wall outside the bathroom.QE-5, Bloemstraat 42, tel. (+31) 206 24 59 42, www.cafechris.nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 21:00. JGB CAF KARPERSHOEK It could very well be that you have to be a person of the male persuasion to appreciate this bar. Around since 1606 or 1629, depending on whom you talk to, it considers itself to be Amsterdams oldest bar and after checking out the shabby furniture and sand-worn oors it wont get any ar- gument from us. Roughly 400 years ago sailors and other rough characters could sit here and admire the view of the ships on the IJ way before the train station cut o this port city from the water. Today you can sip a local beer or jen- ever here with middle-aged men who kiss one another on the cheek in manly fashion.QA-1, Martelaarsgracht 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 78 86. Open 11:00 - 01:00. CAF PAPENEILAND This unusual brown bar dating back to 1642 oers great views of canals and church spires from its excellent posi- tion at the picturesque intersection of the Prinsengracht and the Brouwersgracht. Inside youll nd an antique in- terior of wood furniture, old blue and white tiles on the walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft chandelier. Other outstanding dcor features include copper bed warmers, an ornately decorated cast iron stove and white Christmas lights strung from the high ceiling. Unlike other bars of its genre, Caf Papeneiland also oers seating above the claustrophobic bar where patrons are allowed to smoke. Sip a jenever with one of the old-timers or order one of a handful of beers on draught.QE-4, Prinsengracht 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. BX CAF PIEPER According to the plaque on the wall, and the bartender, this ancient bar on the picturesque Prinsengracht has been around since 1665 and having a look around the place the only things that would make you think other- wise are the modern music, current events posters and the shiny coee machine. Everything else in this classic brown bar, including its worn oorboards, low timber ceiling and faded stained glass windows, looks its age. Order a tasty local beer or maybe a La Choue by the gas re on a typi- cal wet and rainy Amsterdam day or grab a seat outside for a little sunshine and a smoke.QF-8, Prinsengracht 424, tel. (+31) 206 26 47 75. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. B CAF SLIJTERIJ OOSTERLING This wonderful bar has been serving thirsty Amsterdam- mers since 1877. A mix of young and elderly patrons play cards, sip jenever or knock back strong Belgian and Dutch double bocks here under the shadow of a huge antique ad for Oosterling liquors at the far end. Huge barrels of spirits decorate the right-hand wall and hang precariously over the heads of the local clientele, but the bars most curi- ous feature is the height of its hip-high bar with match- ing stools that look like a Tolkien-inspired tavern expect- ing Hobbits for happy hour.QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 140, tel. (+31) 206 23 41 40. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. DE DRUIF Although the building supposedly dates back to 1585, the bar opened in 1631 making it one of Amsterdams oldest. The views have changed, but in all likelihood the interior hasnt experienced much tampering over the centuries and thats the way that the middle-aged to elderly patrons like it. Wooden jenever barrels are lined up behind the bar and the wooden table in the back room is covered with a carpet in keeping with Hollands oddball interior design traditions. A few interesting draught beers are available in addition to local spirits and you can pu away on a cigar or a cigarette with the rest of the old salts here.QI-4, Rapen- burgerplein 83, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 30. Open 15:00 - 24:00. Closed Tue. BX DE PILSENER CLUB (DE ENGELSE REET) Tucked away in a tiny alleyway o the Kalverstraat, this simple brown bar is perhaps best known for the fact that it really has no bar to speak of. Polite male gentlemen in neckties pour a wide variety of delicious brews from a back alcove/closet area lending this dark room an odd, yet old world atmosphere. The peeling wallpaper, wrin- kled lithographs of Amsterdam and sand-covered oor only add to the feeling that De Pilsener Club is a time capsule that only locals and the occasional wayward tourist bother to enter. But in our opinion, its a welcome respite from the international chains and big brands that line the citys main shopping artery outside.QA-3, Begij- nensteeg 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 17 77. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Knocking a few back at the Heineken Experience Summer 2014 21 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum A FAREWELL TO PINTS Unless youre at an Irish pub or sports bar where you can get a proper pint or half liter mug, beer glasses in the Netherlands tend to come in dainty sizes more suitable for children or ladies who lunch. This does take some getting used to. A man of 6ft and over holding a 0.25l glass of beer does look (how to put it diplomatically?) a little eeminate. Back home in Eng- land, Ireland, America or wherever if your mates spot- ted you drinking from such a puny glass, youd prob- ably feel like your sister just caught you trying on one of her dresses, but in Amsterdam even longshoremen and street tus swill their brews from these miniature tea set receptacles. Relax. Youre in Holland now. CASINOS & GAMBLING HOLLAND CASINO Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Ri- jksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside youll nd well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle with machines with imaginative names.QF-8, Max Euwe- plein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl. Open 12:00 - 03:00. POJAUGKX CLUBS BARKODE This club which opened at the end of 2012 calls itself the home base of techno, tech-house and deephouse and thats actually no exaggeration. A visit to Barkode is going back to basics on the three levels. You might expect the club, which is the successor of what was once Club Home near the Amstel to be bigger, but the atmosphere is in- timate and clearly for lovers of international techno acts with parties like Raven is Leven and Nachtcollege. If you like your music to be bubbly and smooth, this is not the place for you.QB-3, Wagenstraat 3-7, tel. (+31) 206 20 13 75, www.barkodeamsterdam.nl. Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A CLUB ESCAPE Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amster- dam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs, unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986, Escape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The shrill house music in Escape Club wont appeal to every- one, but you can move on to four other separate areas: Deluxe, Studio, Ca and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway because youre caught between high school students and tourists? For more class, you can always escape to Jimmy Woos.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11, www.escape.nl. Open , Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00, Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house club, but even we could sense that something special was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the profes- sional international DJs from as far away as the States, who know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual so dont worry about your trainers and leave your D&G gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the supercial glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the action. Unlike the crowded faux clubs on Leidseplein blasting Top 40, this place is the real deal.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory.nl. Open Thu, Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE NYX The numerous glow-in-the-dark stairs, the techno blasts and live music on dierent levels as well as the wood, rusty metal and concrete grati-clad walls of this gay- friendly venue put one in mind of a Berlin squat, which is a refreshing deviation from most of Amsterdams polished hotspots. Visit NYX for an adventure and to mingle with the clientele, which is neither exclusively gay or straight, but beware of stealthy and not-so-stealthy looks.QG-8, Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, www.clubnyx.nl. Open , Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A STUDIO 80 Every week, a long line of hipsters and art academy stu- dents are checked by a door Nazi at the entrance of Stu- dio 80 located at the busy Rembrandtplein. As one of the places to be for contemporary electro music, the club has weekly and monthly events aimed at the young music fa- natic. Dance the night away in the big main hall or lounge on the couches in the back. Apart from the music, the sight of the long queue of well-dressed clubbers is also worth a look.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 17, tel. (+31) 205 21 83 33, www.studio-80.nl. Open Wed, Thu 23:00 - 03:30, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJUG WINSTON KINGDOM The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams no- toriously naughty street, might make one think twice about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a mistake. This dark grati-sprayed club actually oers decent dance nights and smashing live performances from tomorrows big indie acts like The Gaslight Anthem who have both played here. Filled with a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals, this is an excellent escape from the War- moes, but theres plenty of sleaze to nd here too, if youre really looking for it.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13 80, www.winston.nl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission: 5 - 10. E 22 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum COCKTAILS HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT This prize-winning cocktail bar right at the edge of the city centre oozes atmosphere from the brownish coloured bar and the exclusive 1920s-style living room to the aptly named cocktails (the Coco Chanel, the Pink Lady, the Brooklyn) and the live music from the house band, not to mention the styl- ishly dressed owners Guillermo and Vera. The place is often packed and reservations are required if youre coming with a group so its denitely no longer hidden.QH-5, Rapenburg 18, tel. (+31) 625 29 36 20, www.hpsamsterdam.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. A SKYLOUNGE One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar on the 11th oor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terric view of the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the sta are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elabo- rate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking loca- tion.QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00, doubletree.hilton.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. PJAULGBKXW COMEDY CLUBS BOOM CHICAGO This is the only English-language comedy club in Amster- dam. Every night you can watch an evening of improv and skits la Saturday Night Live performed by the citys fun- niest English-speakers in a theatre cleverly hidden by its bar/restaurant. The admission is steep, but Amsterdams American and British expats dont seem to mind as Friday and Saturday nights usually sell out. You can also order food and drink in the auditorium or just relax at the bar downstairs and save yourself 20. Most performances begin at 20:15, but visit its website for exact show times. QF-7, Leidseplein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 01, www. boomchicago.nl. Admission: 20. AK IRISH PUBS MOLLY MALONES Although this cosy cellar pub has had a Celtic makeover with an Irish ag, Guinness memorabilia and the odd shamrock, there are also plenty of old Dutch liquor casks lined up against the wall like the ones you see at local jenever joints. Order a Kilkenny and some Irish salmon or spare ribs, watch football on SkySports and listen to oc- casional live music on weekend nights here. Naturally, plenty of whiskey is also on oer including some good single malts. Although it has all the makings of yet another tourist trap, its location on a quiet canal lends it a laid back quality thats hard to nd at similar establishments. QB-1, Oudezijds Kolk 9, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 50, www. mollyinamsterdam.com. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:30 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. AEB JENEVER BARS IN DE OLOFSPOORT The historic building that houses this charming bar was built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate, hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort oers over 200 dierent spirits including traditional and exotic local jen- evers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disap- pointed either as the Belgian Aigem Double on draught is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this one provides plenty of space for its patrons in two large rooms, but make a note of its limited opening hours.QB- 1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www. olofspoort.com. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. A WYNAND FOCKINK This ancient room that looks more like a neglected mu- seum than a popular bar and tourist attraction has been serving unique Dutch liqueurs and spirits with names like Rose Without Thorns, Bridal Tears and My Aunts Water since 1679. A thick layer of dust covers all of the empty antique bottles as well as the full ones that cause the wooden shelves to sag precariously above one another. Unfortunately, its a little hard to nd as the Krasnapolsky Hotel has enveloped it over the years, but if you do even- tually get here dont forget to slurp your liqueur without using your hands when you take your rst sip a local tra- dition.QA-2, Pijlsteeg 31, tel. (+31) 206 39 26 95, www. wynand-fockink.nl. Open 15:00 - 21:00. LIVE MUSIC ALTO JAZZ CAF This legendary Amsterdam club is about as long as a train car, but perhaps even narrower. Youll denitely have to make some physical contact with other music enthusiasts to get to the stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform every night in front of a packed crowd of hipsters, locals and foreigners in the know. Its dark the way a jazz club should be and has something of a clandestine speakeasy feel to it. Theres no cover charge, but even simple drinks like a Jack and Coke can set you back dearly.QF-8, Korte Leidsed- warsstraat 115, tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49, www.jazz-cafe- alto.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AE Lots of birds in the Red Light district M.Zaprauskis Summer 2014 23 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum BOURBON STREET This place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with the exception of the musical instruments hanging from the rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the weekend its hard to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands and the bouncers dont seem to have any qualms about letting as many people in as is physically possible, but at least youre getting real entertainment for your 5 cover and not the blaring Top 40 and techno at neighbouring bars. If youd like to use the toilet, try coming on a week- night. Live music every evening.QF-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE PUBS CAF THIJSSEN Named after the bloke whose statue graces the square outside, this friendly neighbourhood pub is frequented by people of all ages and stripes and is known for its im- pressive beer selection and huge, yet casual terrace that instantly quadruples the bars capacity each summer. The interior is pure bruin caf with a long bar that is only knee- high on one side. No matter, tiny stools were added to compensate for the lack of altitude. A huge cupboard is stocked with board games from checkers and chess to Risk and that old school classic Boggle. Some snacks, sand- wiches and breakfasts can also be had and wi- is avail- able, but bear in mind that Thijssen only accepts cash.QE- 4, Brouwersgracht 107, tel. (+31) 206 23 89 94, www. cafethijssen.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 07:30 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BW DE KONINGSHUT There are so many pubs, shops and cafs on the Spuistraat, that its easy to miss this little gem, but denitely keep your eyes open if you like cosy pubs with an excellent selection of beer including the powerful Zatte from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. The interior is not unlike a brown bar, with per- haps the exception of the mounted stags heads, the TV, which is only tuned on for local sporting events, and the old leather headrests that line the wall. You can order a full menu of classic Dutch cuisine and nger food from the Haesje Claes restaurant next door.QA-3, Spuistraat 269, tel. (+31) 206 24 99 98, www.haesjeclaes.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. AB OLD SAILOR PUB Just look for the neon Popeye sign to nd this popular Red Light district pub. Inside you wont see sea captains with eye patches or other old salts, but rather tourists and stag parties drinking heavily or watching sports on TV or both. If it werent for the crowds one might even admire the maritime interior of model sailing vessels, chandeliers made from ships wheels and nautical lamps. Most people, however, come here for the cheap drinks.QB-1, Oudezi- jds Achterburgwal 39A, tel. (+31) 206 24 77 39. AB SPORTS BARS TEASERS Its rened motto babes and beer curiously neglects to mention sports. The beer part is obvious. Youre on the Damrak so a pint of Heineken will set you back 6.50 and as far as the babes go well give you a hint. That doesnt refer to the clientele, but rather the beautiful waitresses in cheerleader outts that take turns dancing on the bar. Teasers also has about a dozen TVs showing football most of the day and a wide range of pub food from English fry ups to steaks with prices betting the bars location.QA-1, Damrak 35 - 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 84 11. ABX WHISKY BARS WHISKYCAF L&B Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on oer on the blackboard, take a deep breath and nd your favou- rite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500 dif- ferent single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from around the world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the central bar and ponder the possibilities, but dont worry. You wont get dirty looks from the sta if you order one of its excellent beers or wines.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82 - 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen. nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A WINE BARS MULLINERS WIJNLOKAAL The rst thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart from the rened atmosphere, the polished wooden bar and the green leather benches that put one in mind of an English gentlemans club, was the smell of garlic. Es- cargot was being prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas, but Mulliners main focus is of course wine in all its lovely incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the months specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room to the soothing sounds of classical music. QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mulliners-wijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A Drop anchor at a local cocktail bar 24 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum SIGHTSEEING From historic canal houses and royal palaces to world-class museums, Amsterdams city centre has it all. ESSENTIAL CENTRUM THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK) Although no one knows for certain, its believed that Am- sterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was erected at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of the 14th century. The important edice wasnt only used for religious purposes and often served as a safe for precious docu- ments, a treasury and also a homeless shelter. It was also the place where couples had to register their intentions to marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did in 1638. Shes buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance. The historic monument and its wooden ceiling were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was nally closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was again opened to the public and is now one of the citys most visit- ed attractions.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.oudekerk.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 5, children 12 and under free. CANAL TOURS AMSTERDAM CANAL CRUISES This company has been giving tours of the Amster- dam canals for over 40 years. Its six boats depart from the landing opposite the Heineken Experience..QG-8, Stadhouderskade 550, tel. (+31) 206 26 56 36, www. amsterdamcanalcruises.nl. BLUE BOAT COMPANY Exploring the UNESCO protected canals is often the high- light of any trip to Amsterdam so why not take in the citys best sights in a 75-minute canal boat tour for only 15? You can also take a 90-minute evening cruise (17.50) and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand or spoil your signicant other with a luxurious 2.5-hour dinner cruise (67.50). Visit its website for exact departure times and lo- cations.QF-9, Stadhouderskade 30, tel. (+31) 206 79 13 70, www.blueboat.nl. (7 - 15). A CENTRUM ATTRACTIONS VENUS TEMPLE SEX MUSEUM If, like most visitors, you arrived at the Central Station and walked down the crowded Damrak you no doubt noticed the Venus Temple, which is a bit tacky but also a classic Am- sterdam attraction on four oors and a bargain at only 4. You can take a look at ancient erotic woodcarvings from In- dian temples, scrimshaw dildos and 18th-century silk paint- ings of sexual acts from China and Japan. Youll also see mannequins of ashers and prostitutes, old porno lms and some provocative black and white photographs, including a 100-year-old image of a woman with a gas mask, strap-on and whip that proves that the human race has always been perverted.QA-1, Damrak 18, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 76, www. sexmuseumamsterdam.nl. Open 09:30 - 23:30. Admis- sion: 4; entrance from16 years of age. CHURCHES NOORDERKERK As the population of the new Jordaan neighbourhood began to explode in the 17th century, the city decided to build a new church for its lower class protestant residents. Hendrick de Keyser, the illustrious designer of the nearby Westerkerk, was tasked to create the building and it was - nally completed in1623 in all its odd octagonal glory. Inside the black gravestones that pave the oor have been pol- ished smooth by centuries of foot trac from its devoted parishioners.QE-4, Noordermarkt 48, tel. (+31) 206 26 64 36, www.noorderkerk.org. Open Mon 10:30 - 12:30, Sat 11:00 - 13:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND PAUL (DE PAPEGAAI) In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shop- pers outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this hidden church is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine appear- ance is intentional as it was one of several underground Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from Protestant persecution, hence its code name the Parrot. Just look for the tile mosaic to nd the entrance.QA-3, Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaas- parochie.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:45 - 13:30. WESTERKERK One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it still tends to its Protestant ock to this day. Its Dutch Re- naissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower em- bellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one is quite sure exactly where, yet a plaque marks the ap- proximate spot not far from his son Titus grave. The tower bell is the largest in the Netherlands and weighs in at an impressive 7,500kg. The Westermarkt square outside is a popular meeting place.QE-5, Prinsengracht 281, www. westerkerk.nl. Open 11:00 - 15:00. Tower admission: 6. A canal boat tour is a good way to see the city Summer 2014 25 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum MUSEUMS ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS) There are very few people who arent acquainted with the tragic story of Anne Frank a brave girl who dreamed of becoming an author while in hiding from Nazi persecu- tion. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex was published in 1947 and later translated in over 65 languages. The popularity of her work is reected in the huge queues outside this museum that has been teaching Amsterdams visitors about the Holocaust, the story of the Frank family and their desperate struggle to survive and the evils of anti- Semitism and racism since 1960.QE-5, Prinsengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.annefrank.org. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 9, children 10 - 17 years 4.50, children under 10 free. A HET GRACHTENHUIS This museum is dedicated to the evolution of Amsterdams famous canal belt and the houses that sprung up along them. Although the city oers other Golden Age muse- ums that display renovated or reconstructed 17th-century interiors, Het Grachtenhuis focuses on the development of the city during its most prosperous era with a variety of modern multimedia experiences and lms on the top oors of the building, while still showing o its antique grandeur of marble foyers, period furniture and paintings by illustrious Dutch artists.QF-7, Herengracht 386, www. hetgrachtenhuis.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 12, children 6 - 18 years 6. A HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM (HET WOONBOOTMUSEUM) The owner of this converted freighter that dates back to 1914 knows a thing or two about houseboats as he lived onboard for 22 years before moving ashore with the rest of the landlubbers in Amsterdam. He now runs this museum which receives over 38,000 visitors each year who are cu- rious to see how people can use a boat as a permanent residence. View pictures and scale models and discover interesting facts about the waterways of the city such as the average depth on an Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m).QE- 6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50, www. houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 3.75, children 3. MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES What began as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blos- somed into the worlds largest collection of handbags and purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Locat- ed in a prestigious 17th-century home that once belonged to the then mayor of Amsterdam, the museum begins on the top oor where you can view satchels, boxes and let- ter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from every material imaginable including ivory, tortoiseshell, leather, lace, silk, straw and wood. 20th-century exhibits include funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made from exotic animals like ostriches, crocodiles and, yes, even armadillos. QH-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www. museumofbagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 9,50, children under 12 free. AK 26 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM (KONINKLIJK PALEIS AMSTERDAM) Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the building was rst opened to the public as the Town Hall in 1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdi- nand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal residence in 1808 when he briey served as the King of Holland, but it later became the possession of the House of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors youll nally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much pol- ished marble in one place, not to mention six giant crys- tal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and astronomical charts in the oor. The audio guide, which is included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms have explanations in any language. A short movie with English subtitles is available before you take the tour.QA- 2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.paleisamsterdam. nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children under 18 free. THE HASH, MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM Apart from the pleasant eects that it can have on your mood and state of mind, cannabis has a thousand uses you probably never heard of. During Hollands Golden Age, Dutch East India Company ships made their ropes and sails from hemp, while today hemp bre is still one of the most durable and easy to use materials available for making clothing. The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum displays the history of industrial hemp in its gallery, while its main collection consists of items related to the history of cannabis, the culture that surrounds it and its medici- nal benets. Ancient hash pipes, 17th-century paintings of medieval Dutchmen getting high, cinema posters of Cheech and Chong, a guitar made of hemp and hundreds of other unusual items make this a fascinating place to visit. A small shop selling gifts and cannabis seeds is also attached to the museum.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburg- wal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26, www.hashmuseum. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Admission: adults 9, children under 13 free. VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON) This magnicent building owned by the Van Loon family trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few re- maining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt ap- prentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671 but passed on to dierent owners over the centuries until it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the Dutch East India Company. Although the family was one of the citys wealthiest, they cultivated a tradition of opening up their home to show o its splendour and this tradition has survived to this day. View 17th-century portraits, pe- riod furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular wall murals, a centuries-old working kitchen and a spa- cious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam. QG-7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www. museumvanloon.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 7. PLACES OF INTEREST BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT) Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque ca- nals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its exis- tence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht. EASTERN ISLANDS (OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN) Theres one thing at which the Dutch truly excel: turning water into land. Large parts of the Eastern Islands (Katten- burg, Wittenburg and Oostenburg) were reclaimed from the River IJ in the 19th century and the Dutch East India Company also had its headquarters here. Impressive build- ings like the Maritime Museum stand alongside charming homes, but bear in mind that the neighbourhood may be pretty, but theres not much else to do here apart from ad- miring the scenery.QI/J-4, Oostelijke Eilanden. FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT) The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a function- ing market in one. Although its often called the worlds only oating ower market, most of the browsing takes place on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on the Singel. The sellers will also send bulbs to your home address abroad and they know which countries dont allow the importation of plant materials, so you dont have to worry about having your purchase conscated at customs. Locals also buy owers here so the prices are actually quite reasonable.QA/B-3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A Lots of bulbs for sale at the Flower Market Summer 2014 27 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum GOLDEN BEND (GOUDEN BOCHT) This stretch of the Herengracht is famous for its grand manor houses that came into existence when Amster- dams ber-wealthy built their dream homes here during the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. Although it g- ures prominently in city guides of all stripes, the buildings are actually on the boring side and lack the narrow dimen- sions and cosiness that most people associate with the capitals architecture. Youll probably walk by on your way to lots of local museums anyway, but otherwise you can give it a pass unless you need to hire one of the prominent law rms that have their oces here.QB-3, Herengracht between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat. SIGHTSEEING TOURS FAST FLYING FERRY The nearby town of Velsen-Zuid can be easily reached within 30 minutes by the Fast Flying Ferry that travels at 65km/hour.QF-4, De Ruyterkade, tel. (+31) 900 92 92, www.water.connexxion.nl. Tickets: one way 5.15, re- turn 9.70; bike tickets 3.10. KAROS CITYTOURS Want to impress your loved one with a romantic ride? The coachmen in front of the Royal Palace on Dam Square will take you on a horse-drawn tour of the city from the com- fort of a nostalgic carriage.QA-2, Veemarkt 50, tel. (+31) 206 91 34 78, www.karos.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Prices from 35 (4 persons, 20 minutes). MIKES BIKE TOURS Two daily tours show you the hidden gems of the inner city (16:00) or the enchanting surroundings of the Dutch countryside (11:00). Dont expect boring guides who try to pass the time by spouting dry facts. The entertaining sta attempt to make the experience as fun as possible. QF-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, www. mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com. (15 - 22). JA STATUES & MONUMENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square thats often occupied by people of all ages and nationali- ties sunning themselves, reading books or just relaxing. The brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890 - 1963), the National Monument made of white travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all Dutch men and women who suered under the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and to the nations liberation. A number of statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance expressed by all members of society from labourers to the intelligentsia and the lions on either side represent the Dutch nation. The gi- ant pillar rises to a height of 22m.QA-2, Dam. REMBRANDT STATUE Rembrandt van Rijn (1606 - 1669) is considered to be one of the greatest painters in Dutch history and King William III had the honour of unveiling Amsterdams oldest statue in 1852. But thats not the end of the story. Over the next de- cade at least 10 more statues will be erected along the route that the illustrious painter used to walk from his house in Amsterdam to to the outskirts of the city where he searched for inspiration. Each statue will represent a certain period of his life. A young Rembrandt, opposite the Amstel Hotel, is the rst of these new statues. Statues of Rembrandt can also be found at molen at Amstel at the end of Amstelpark and Professor Tulpplein.QB-3, Rembrandtplein. THE LITTLE DARLING (HET LIEVERDJE) At the centre of the Spui, a small square surrounded by some excellent beer bars and bookshops, is a stylised brass statue of a boy with a naughty smile that hints that hes up to no good. The Little Darling, Dear or Sweetheart is the Dutch version of Dennis the Menace, Calvin (of Cal- vin and Hobbes), Max and Moritz and countless other ctional depictions of mischievous boys popular in all cul- tures. Erected on the Square in 1960 with funds provided by a tobacco company, the statue became a rallying point for the Provos, a counter-culture movement that protested against pretty much all of the successes and failures of the 1950s.QSpui. Hanging around near the National Monument M.Zaprauskis BREWERY TOURS BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL You can take a tour of the small premises in the Red Light district and learn about the brewing process fol- lowed by a beer in its new tasting room which has a view of all the brewing action. The owners also con- tribute to society by employing people who have a tough time nding work elsewhere and you can see them hard at work in the cellar where one lls the bottles, another puts the cap on and a third person attaches the labels. The brewery makes about eight dierent beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael merchandise in its shop or taste them at their stylish bar and restaurant.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30, tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 28 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum PLANTAGE SIGHTSEEING The Plantage has an incredible concentration of muse- ums, historical monuments, cutting-edge architecture and beautiful parkland all in one neighbourhood. ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna and 200 species of ora. The sprawling park not only oers a huge collection of exotic animals from near and far, but also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology museum. Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live out- doors so you can see camels lounging in the sand or Japa- nese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants, bualo and giraes in their enclosures or head over to the top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant tortoises and crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in the Insect House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in the Jungle by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey house and strange forms of life from the planets oceans in the aquari- um.QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31) 90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Am- sterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for poverty-stricken elderly women. Since 2009, the build- ing has hosted periodic themed exhibitions that display some of the Hermitages most prized possessions from stunningly preserved artefacts of the ancient world to masterpieces of European art. Permanent exhibits dedi- cated to the Amstelhof and the origins of the Hermitage Museum and the Russian royal family are also available. The Hermitage is currently hosting an exhibition entitled Expedition Silk Road that will be on display until September 5, 2014.QH-6, Amstel 51, tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www. hermitage.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and under free. AU HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists, botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000 spe- cies of plants from around the globe throughout its gardens and greenhouses. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the oldest of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C. ship centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856. You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful owers, carnivorous orae and even a redwood tree. You can also walk through the tropical and desert greenhouses, but dont miss the buttery house. .QH-5, Plantage Mid- denlaan 2a, tel. (+31) 206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 8.50, children 5 - 14 years 4.50, children 4 and under free. HEK NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM (NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM AM- STERDAM) In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the wealthiest and most important nations in the world and this was in large part due to its maritime prowess. No other country in the world had as many ships sailing the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renova- tions, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates how the sea has dened Dutch culture. Stimulating, in- teractive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to life. The signicance of this industry in the modern age is also explained in a clear and concise manner. Chil- dren will also love the museum, especially the replica of the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship.QI-4, Kattenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, fax (+31) 205 23 22 13, info@hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl, www. hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admis- sion: 15, children 5 and over 7.50. TJAL SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Look for the big green building jutting out into the water to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors can learn about science without the boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can also see how fuel engines work or touch a real, 4.65 billion-year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced tech- nologies; and lots of other interesting stu. You can also bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the city. A good museum shop is also available where you can buy science experiments and other fun souvenirs for kids. QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission: 15, children under four free. AK View of Science Center NEMO DigiDaan Summer 2014 29 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum of 13,000 guilders. An audio guide will take you through the house, which is reconstructed to look exactly as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak of his career. Sta also demonstrate how etchings were mass-produced using copper plates.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 17 years 3, children 5 and under free. A JEWISH CULTURAL QUARTER JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM (JOODS HISTO- RISCH MUSEUM) This extensive museum dedicated to Amsterdam Jewish life opened in 1987 and is spread out over what used to be four dierent synagogues. Begin your journey in the oldest building erected in 1671, which was abandoned for nearly 30 years after WWII until it was nally restored to its former glory. This section of the museum chronicles the earliest years of Jewish settlement in Amsterdam and you can view an impressive array of religious items, holy texts and ancient books as well as a giant silver menorah nearly 2m tall! .QH-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhm.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. HAUKW JHM CHILDRENS MUSEUM A part of the Jewish Historical Museum, this museum on three oors is designed to teach children about Judaism, but from a childs perspective. Kids can visit a working kitchen and learn about the kosher tradition and typical Jewish cuisine or visit the Hollanders a ctional Amster- dam Jewish family to see what their home life is like and how it both diers from and resembles an average Dutch familys day-to-day life.QH-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhmkindermuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. TAUKW PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE As medieval Amsterdam prospered, its population grew by leaps and bounds and among its many new arrivals were Jews from around the continent looking for a bet- ter life. They completed work on this synagogue in 1675 and since then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in Amsterdam housing also offices, archives, ritual baths and a rabbinate. The synagogue was completely re- stored in 2011 and now its treasure rooms which house unique ceremonial objects are open to the public as well as Ets Haim, the oldest functioning Jewish library in the world dating to 1616. QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.portugesesynagoge. nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under 6 free. HAU 30 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum SHOPPING You can shop for the big brands on the pedestrian Kalver- straat, try the boutiques in the Jordaan or nd something exotic in Chinatown around the Nieuwmarkt. ANTIQUES & ART ANTIQUARIAN HOOGKAMP An excellent selection of antique prints, maps, cityscapes and botanicals from the 16th - 20th centuries.QG-8, Spie- gelgracht 27, tel. (+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. ARONSON ANTIQUAIRS Generations of the Aronson family have been selling Dutch delftware and Chinese ceramics since 1881.QG-8, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 23 31 03, www. aronson.com. BOOKS THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER Book lovers could spend days in this temple to English- language literature. Skip the coee table books and maga- zines on the ground oor and climb up to the next two oors for novels, travel, history, sci-, fantasy, political sci- ence and even manga.QA-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25 55 37, www.abc.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. A WATERSTONES An outstanding selection of English language literature including books on travel, history and politics not to men- tion contemporary ction, classic novels, magazines and newspapers on four oors.QA-3, Kalverstraat 152, tel. (+31) 206 38 38 21, www.waterstones.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A CHEESE DE KAASKAMER VAN AMSTERDAM The aroma of aged cheese can be overwhelming to the uninitiated but fromage lovers will want to spend hours here. In addition to hundreds of cheeses you can also buy imported salamis, sausages and other meats as well as wine.QE-6, Runstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 23 34 83, kaaskamer.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. DELICATESSENS EICHHOLTZ This delicatessen has been in operation since 1888, but now it specialises in food products from the US and UK for homesick Americans and Brits. Buy anything from Fruit Loops and A&W root beer to eggnog and Aunt Jemima syrup for inated prices.QF-7, Leidsestraat 48, tel. (+31) 206 22 03 05. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. MARKETS NOORDERMARKT (BOERENMARKT) Every Saturday this market in the Jordaan district positively teems with life. Located on a lovely square in the shadow of the unusual octagonal Norderkerk (North Church), you can browse through stalls selling cheese, vintage clothing, sausages, fresh produce, antiques and lots of other food and fashion. If youre into seafood dont miss the oyster stall where the friendly purveyor will prepare the tasty del- icacies on the half shell to be consumed right on the spot. QE-4, Noordermarkt, www.boerenmarktamsterdam. nl. Open , Sat 09:00 - 16:00. MUSIC SHOPS CONCERTO Possibly the citys, and perhaps the nations largest col- lection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread out across ve buildings: one for classical, another for world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs. Amazing!QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23 52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A SECOND LIFE MUSIC This second-hand music shop oers an eclectic collection of music from punk rock to Spanish amenco and every- thing in between. Most of the music is on vinyl, but it also has a decent selection of CDs.QE-7, Prinsengracht 366, tel. (+31) 206 20 52 00, www.secondlifemusic.nl. Open 13:00 - 18:00. SPORTS & OUTDOORS FJLLRVEN BRAND CENTER This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox, specialises in all kinds of outdoor gear from its signature backpacks and camping essentials like tents to clothing, hiking boots and all the apparel youll need to spend time in nature. Its large brand centre in Amsterdam is conve- niently located on the Rozengracht.QD-7, Rozengracht 219 - 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fallravencenter. nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JA Amsterdams shops have something for everyone Centrum Map Centrum Map 34 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Nieuw-West In the aftermath of WWII Amsterdam was in desperate need of new housing. By 1951 work began on the garden suburb of Tuinstad Slotermeer, the rst of ve new neigh- bourhoods that were added to the west end of the city. To- day, Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart, Overtoomse Veld and Osdorp comprise the urban district of Nieuw-West. A spacious design with plenty of greenery is characteristic of these new neighbourhoods, which all surround the peace- ful waters of the Sloterplas lake. ARRIVING IN NIEUW-WEST Nieuw-Wests main train station is Amsterdam Lelylaan, which has great connections with Central Station and Schiphol. The green metro line 50 is probably the easiest way to get to Nieuw-West from the railway stations at Zuid and RAI. Along the way it passes six metro stations in Nieuw-West. Many trams also travel to Nieuw-West in- cluding No.13 (Geuzenveld), Nos.7 and 14 (Slotermeer), No.17 (Osdorp Dijkgraafplein), No.1 (Osdorp de Aker) and No.2 (Nieuw Sloten). All, with the exception of Nos.7 and 14 (Dam), depart from Central Station. ACCOMMODATION BEST WESTERN BLUE SQUARE HOTEL Although Best Westerns have a reputation for offer- ing fairly standard, affordable accommodation, Blue Square has separated itself from the pack by focusing on modern ways to minimise its carbon footprint in- cluding the use of solar panels and other green, energy saving measures. This has earned them the right to call themselves a Green Key hotel a prestigious title for environmentally sound accommodation. 175 singles, doubles, triples and quads are available with flat screen TVs, free wireless internet access, safe, coffee/tea sets, air conditioning and private bathrooms. Some also have views of the Erasmus Canal. .QN-2, Slotermeerlaan 80, tel. (+31) 205 06 37 17, www.bluesquarehotel.nl. 175 rooms (singles, doubles, triples and quads from 109). PALGKW hhhh WESTCORD FASHION HOTEL AMSTERDAM Located at the south end of the Rembrandt Park, this four-star design hotel has plenty to oer the discern- ing traveller who demands more than just a place to lay his head. All rooms are stylish, yet playful and even cosy unlike similar establishments that rely on minimalism to be trendy. Naturally, the usual amenities are available in- cluding at screen TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, coee/tea set, private bathroom and free wi-. And a design hotel wouldnt be complete without a hot cock- tail bar so head to the 10th oor to have a drink with the beautiful people at the Skyy Bar. A large wellness centre with a swimming pool and steam rooms is also at your disposal.QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08 00, www.westcordhotels.nl. 260 rooms (twin and doubles from 119, triples from 179, suites from 385). PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhh FOOD & DRINK CAF RESTAURANT KERKZICHT Sloten locals love Kerkzichts attractive terrace that lies directly opposite St. Pancras Church, and with good rea- son. Its a great place for an afternoon drink and once you get hungry a selection of delicious meals including some regional specialities is available. If youd like to sample one of North Hollands most renowned meals, ask for the Texels lamb. You cant go wrong with the beef tenderloin either. It isnt hard to notice that the restaurant has been a brown bar in a previous incarnation, as the interior is still quite old-fashioned. Its setting in a cosy old village house is also appealing.QM-4, Sloterweg 1209, tel. (+31) 206 15 39 04, www.caferestaurantkerkzicht.nl. Open 15:30 - 23:00. (18 - 20). GBKX COCOS KEUKEN Just good food in the neighbourhood is Cocos slogan. It has to be said that this is quite a modest motto when you consider that the food in this local restaurant is close to perfection. With pure, healthy and fresh ingredients the cooks create basic dishes with a creative are and all of these are served by friendly sta in plain, yet cheerful sur- roundings. Rumour has it that chef Youssef is your man if you want something thats not on the menu.QN-3, Saskia van Uijlenburgkade 170, tel. (+31) 207 67 03 87, www. cocoskeuken.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Also at N-2, Gerrie Knetemannlaan 170; N-3/4, Ottho Heldringstraat 13 d. (10 - 14). T6UVENGBKSW SKYY BAR On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth. The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its a good place to visit even if you just want to have a look at the beautiful girls in sexy outts while sipping a cock- tail or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly aordable porn star martini, which is a tasty drink indeed. QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08 00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. AULGKW Cool o in the Nieuwe Meer on a hot summer day Summer 2014 35 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Nieuw-West SIGHTSEEING Although Nieuw-West is a fairly new district of Amsterdam, having only been created in the 1950s, it has more than its fair share of sights and attractions. You can take your pick of parks and gardens including the central Sloterpark and its large lake or visit one of Amsterdams most impressive windmills, which is open to the public every day. Nieuw- West also has no shortage of modern architecture. BROUWERIJ DE 7 DEUGDEN Amsterdams latest addition to the beer brewing industry is brouwerij De 7 Deugden (The 7 Virtues), which is tucked away on the outskirts of New West. Although all of the ma- chinery and equipment doesnt occupy more space than a large garage, the beer is simply wonderful. Owner Garmt is one of those guys who could no longer resist the tempting call from his inner self and wed just like to personally thank the beer gods for this fortuitous wake-up call. His contribu- tion to a happier life for Amsterdammers is a selection of six beers, all of which have a unique taste. The seventh brew, which makes the name of this brewery sound more logical, is a seasonal beer. This is largely reliant on the time of the year, Garmts mood or whatever else inuences his creative mind and palate. If youd like to take a tour of the place you have to call ahead and arrive in a group of at least four people. For 5/person you can taste all six regular brews served with three types of cheeses. You cant go wrong with that!QL-2, Osdorperweg 578 achter, tel. (+31) 651 64 81 15, www.de7deugden.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Mon, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ULNS LAKE SLOTERPLAS (SLOTERPLAS) The history of the Sloterplas goes back centuries. In 1644, the Slootermeer, a shallow peat lake, was reclaimed with the help of windmills. Over 300 years later the reclaimed land was dug up and once again turned into a lake as part of the 1935 General Expansion Plan for the area. The excavation was necessary to raise the surrounding area so new housing estates like Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart and Osdorp could be built. It also made it possible to create a large park and recreation area in the middle of the new neighbour- hoods. The fertile top soil of peat and clay was used to raise the area around the lake. The Sloterplas is a popular body of water, especially on the southeastern side, for sailing, ca- noeing, shing and diving.QM-3, Sloterplas. OEVERLOOS FERRY (VEERPONT OEVERLOOS) If you cant swim 800 metres, or you dont want to, you can safely cross the Nieuwe Meer by boat between April and September. This seasonal ferry has been running since 1990 and thousands of people use it every year. The Am- sterdam Forest, with all its bars and restaurants, tourist at- tractions and natural beauty, is now a lot more accessible for the residents of Nieuw-West due to this nostalgic ferry crossing.QM-4, Anton Schleperspad 10, www.rederij- oeverloos.nl. Open Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00 from April 15 - October 15. Admission: adults 1, chil- dren 0.50, bicycles 0.50. T REMBRANDT PARK (REMBRANDTPARK) One of Hollands most famous painters, Rembrandt van Rijn, had a park named after him centuries after his death. This spacious green space is located at the border be- tween the old city and the estates of the 1950s and 1960s. The park is cut in half by the Postjesweg and the many lakes and open elds that surround it create a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere. A great variety of sculpture, a zoo and the best kids playground in Amsterdam are just some of the attractions of this central urban oasis.QN-3, Ortel- iuskade, www.rembrandtpark.org. SLOTEN WINDMILL (MOLEN VAN SLOTEN) Nearly 100 years ago, the Netherlands boasted over 10,000 windmills. This invention, which was originally Japanese, is now internationally associated with Holland. Unfortunate- ly, less than 1,000 are left, but several are still located on the outskirts of Amsterdam and the surrounding region. One of the most beautiful ones, Molen van Sloten, is locat- ed at a picturesque spot on the edge of Nieuw-West. This type of windmill, called a Stellingmolen, was used to keep the water level low in the neighbouring areas. Its also the only windmill in Amsterdam which is open every day and even the disabled can take a tour of this beautiful build- ing from 1846 by taking the lift to the upper oors. Many couples have also been married at this Amsterdam land- mark.QM-4, Akersluis 10, tel. (+31) 206 69 04 12, www. molenvansloten.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. T SLOTER PARK SWIMMING POOL (SLOTERPARK- BAD) Since it opened in 2001, the Sloter Park Swimming Pool has been considered to be one of the best and biggest swimming centres in the Netherlands. Its located at the western edge of the Sloterplas and it also hosts two ex- cellent festivals: Loveland in August and West Beach Film Festival in September. Take tram No.7 or 14 from the city centre to the pool.QM-2, President Allendelaan 3, tel. (+31) 205 06 35 06, www.sloterparkbad.nl. Admission: 4.40. Opening hours vary so check its website for ex- act schedules. TLNBKC Enjoy some peace and quiet by the water in Nieuw-West 36 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery E Live music B Outside seating X Smoking section S Takeaway W Wi For centuries the north section of the city was an area that most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large numbers of nancially challenged people exacerbating the stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's largest administrative district. Today Noord, or simply North, is one of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind we've put together a small guide to this interesting urban and ru- ral zone that's usually overlooked by most tourists. All you need to do is to take one of the free ferries behind the Cen- tral Station and 10 minutes later you'll be able to explore Noord and its surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a boat that oers an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some cycling in the pristine countryside, bring a towel and swim trunks and take a dip at one of the area's swimming pools or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the siz- zling new hub of Amsterdam's creative community. There are three dierent ferries that will take you over the River IJ in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-Noord completely free of charge. The departure landing is located just behind the Central Station. ACCOMMODATION From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels, the north side of the River IJ has plenty to oer. UPMARKET NH GALAXY AMSTERDAM The NH Galaxy Hotel is true to its name, because the worlds at your feet in this four-star hotel. The breakfast buf- fet is well stocked and the spacious rooms not only have cutting-edge interior design, but are also tted with king- sized beds and luxurious bathrooms. The friendly sta and its private parking also add extra value to this design hotel and thanks to the shuttle bus, which is free of charge, the centre of Amsterdam is only a short ride away. .QM-2, Dis- telkade 21, tel. (+31) 206 34 43 66, www.nh-hotels.com. PHAUFLBKXwW hhhh THE FARALDA NDSM CRANE HOTEL AMSTERDAM Crane 13 is a renowned industrial landmark and during its heyday the 300-tonne monument could lift up to 40 tonnes of materials. However, after a complete restora- tion it has a new function as a hotel and TV studio. The rst of its three high-end design suites hovers at a height of 13 metres, but a Jacuzzi oers incredible views of Am- sterdams city centre from a height of 50m. Naturally, all of this luxury comes at a premium, but believe it or not youll have to add your name to a waiting list if youd like to spend the night here.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 78, www. faralda.nl. AULGW MID-RANGE BASTION DELUXE HOTEL AMSTERDAM / CEN- TRUM - NOORD Located next to the Volewijkspark and the Vliegenbos na- ture area of Amsterdam Noord, youre never far from ora and fauna when you stay at the Bastion Hotel. Standard rooms live up to their modest name and include TV, safe, private bathrooms and coee/tea sets, while deluxe rooms oer a bit more space and have the added advantage of a mini-bar. Although wi- is available throughout the hotel for free, guests also have access to a computer in the lobby if they dont have their own laptops. A restaurant, bar and smoking lounge are at your disposal, not to mention free parking a rarity in Amsterdam.QM-3, Rode Kruisstraat 28, tel. (+31) 206 32 31 31, www.bastionhotels.nl. 68 rooms (68 Total rooms ). ALGKXW hhh BOTELS AMSTEL BOTEL This ship is safely moored at the NDSM pier. If you simply need somewhere to crash after a night on the town and youre looking for free parking, this is the place. Small cab- ins with thin walls and claustrophobic bathrooms come standard at this botel. The lack of luxury and privacy may not be to everyones liking, but if you need relatively cheap accommodation and you dont mind living on the water, book a room at the back where you have a great view of the River IJ. QM-2, NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42 47, www.amstelbotel.nl. 175 rooms (157 doubles 60 - 120, 18 triples 89 - 150). PTALGBKXW The EYE Film Institute by night Iwan Baan 38 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord BOUTIQUE HOTELS BROOKLYN HOTEL Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet access, mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to men- tion incredible views. We particularly liked the room where you can shower and look out the oor-to-ceiling glass win- dow.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 66, www. brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard doubles from 89, deluxe rooms from 129). PALKW BED & BREAKFAST B&B HET OUDE DIJKHUIS Located on one of Amsterdams most attractive cycling routes, this spacious apartment can accommodate up to four people. The furnishings are not exactly modern or cosy and could best be described as old fashioned and boring. On the other hand, the friendly owners and the more than reasonable prices make up for the lack of dcor. The Old Dike House even has a private entrance and a full sized kitchen. It also rents bikesQN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 443, tel. (+31) 204 94 18 42, www.hetoudedijkhuis.nl. 1 apartment (1 person 70, 4 persons 130). TLNGB B&B HET ZUNDERDORPSKWARTIER Het Zunderdorpskwartier is a new addition to the expand- ing list of excellent B&Bs in rural Amsterdam. The hosts have transformed a shed in the garden of their farmhouse into an attractive guest room, which features a living room with a well equipped kitchen and a separate bedroom. Al- though a bit cramped, the house can be rented for up to four guests and the attached garden makes it a good op- tion for families with children. If its full you can try your luck with the neighbours at B&B Biest-Stro.QM-4, t Nopeind 10b, tel. (+31) 623 74 05 60, www.zunderdorpskwartier. nl. 1 rooms (70 - 75). iTLGBXW CAMPING CAMPING VLIEGENBOS If youre tired of steep prices for accommodation in the city centre, we suggest you take a 10-minute bus ride to Vlieg- enbos, a 62-acre forest across the water from the Central Station. You can pitch a tent, park your camper or rent one of its cabins for a reasonable price during the spring and summer months. A gift shop, restaurant, laundry and other services are also available. During the day take bus No.32 or 33 (06:00 - 24:00) or bus No.361 at night (24:00 - 06:00) from the Central Station to Vliegenbos. The camp- site is only 200m from the bus stop.QN-3, Meeuwenlaan 138, tel. (+31) 206 36 88 55, www.vliegenbos.com. 30 cabins (4-person cabin 71 -74; tents 2 - 5; camper sites 23 - 25). Open April - September. ALK CAFS Noord is very popular with Amsterdam hipsters, so it will come as no surprise that the area has loads of great cafs. BROOD NDSM Three oors have been decorated with a mix of graphic art, bright, splashy colours and an abundance of fresh owers. The rooftop terrace oers great views of the IJ and the Russian submarine thats moored right outside. Downstairs at the counter youll encounter the addictive aroma of freshly baked buns, pastries and bread and we recommend the sandwiches slathered in typically sweet Dutch llings like hagelslag and pindakaas.QN-2, Ms van Riemsdijkweg 30, tel. (+31) 206 33 10 89, www.bbrood. nl. Open 07:45 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 09:45 - 18:00. iT JA6LGBKXSW KOFFIEHUIS DE KLAPROOS (THE POPPY) For over 50 years the De Klaproos coee house has been serving food and drinks on the Klaprozenweg, one of the busiest roads in Amsterdam-Noord. But for the past few years this nostalgic living room-like pub, which you might expect to nd in the middle of the Jordaan instead of next to a public racetrack, has been run by Anita and Nancy. The kitschy lights, bottles of Heineken and particularly the loudspeakers that blast out the latest Dutch hits, cre- ate a fun local atmosphere typical of Amsterdam. Hungry guests can try the homemade meatball sandwich or the steak Strogano served with bread.QM-2, Klaprozenweg 60, tel. (+31) 206 37 65 12. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 6LNBX ONS VERLANGEN Ons Verlangen (Our Desire) is a restful oasis far from the noise and trac of the city. Theres a small army of ani- mals at the farm which could almost rival the collection of fauna at the Artis Zoo, but thanks to the cows most Amsterdammers come here to buy fresh milk or some- thing even tastier. This farm, which is spread out over 125 hectares, also makes delicious organic ice cream! Enjoy the entire selection of avours in the spacious garden. QM-4, Broekergouw 5, tel. (+31) 623 94 90 17, www. zorgboerderijamsterdam.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. TLNBS Noords latest boutique accommodation: the Brooklyn Hotel Summer 2014 39 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord RESTAURANTS Noord has a little something for everyone from ultra hip ne dining to a boat that serves pancakes. ASIAN WOK KING The two statues of lions at the entrance, or shishi as Man- darin speakers call them, make it plain that this massive restaurant specialises in cuisine from the Far East, or to be more precise, Chinese stir fried dishes. Although the menu has plenty on oer, you can make things easy on yourself and choose a set menu or the unlimited buet, which includes free drinks. There is not much of a selec- tion beyond the stir fried stu, but the friendly atmo- sphere and service make this restaurant quite popular, particularly for large groups.QM-3, Buikslotermeer- plein 15, tel. (+31) 206 36 35 68, www.wokking.nl. Open 16:30 - 22:30. (17 - 20). GK FAST FOOD FEBO Looking for something cheap, fast and a step above the stu youd get at typical fast food joint? With more than 20 outlets in Amsterdam, FEBO is the undisputed king of snacks in town. Its also easy to spot as it still oers the now legendary coin operated automated wall of food. We recommend the unbeatable satekroket made with a sub- stance which is hard to describe. Youll just have to take our word for it.QM-3, Buikslotermeerplein 54, tel. (+31) 204 94 21 20, www.febo.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Also at M-2, Vuurwerkerweg 15. Open 10:30 - 20:00, Thu 10:30 - 21:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. S PIETJE FRIETJE In our opinion theres nothing wrong with evening out your cholesterol level after a long day of walking and sightseeing. Pietje Frietje, an old-fashioned snackbar con- veniently located in a grass eld at the corner of Schaaf- straat and the busy Meeuwenlaan, is a good place to start. All of the usual fries, croquettes and other deep fried foods can be enjoyed in the open air.QN-3, Meeuwenlaan. (2 - 3). 6BS Noord is a unique combination of the old and the new CYCLING IN NOORD A bike ride through North is essentially a trip back through the centuries. Four centuries to be exact. Due to the extensive peat lands and dangerous swamps, this area remained uninhabited for ages. This unprecedented and unspoiled piece of wetlands is the Netherlands at its purest. The route along the Waterland Zeedijk dike from Schellingwoude to the old shing village of Durgerdam takes in the impressive IJsselmeer and the buiten-IJ with its historic, sailing ships. Durgerdam is the most impres- sive part of this magnicent landscape; a beautiful an- cient shing village where the multi-coloured wooden houses opposite the marina lean against one another and oer views of the vast distances of the IJsselmeer Lake. When the Zuiderzee was closed o in 1932, a large part of the shing industry disappeared. Today the vil- lage is a protected conservation area. Ransdorp is one of those typical wetlands villages with historic wooden houses and beautiful, traditional Dutch stolp farmhouses tranquilly located on vast peat mead- ows. Its unbelievable that this patch of peace and quiet can be found within Amsterdams city limits! The village is marked by a large, blunt tower visible on the horizon. Ransdorp was home to Geertje Dircx, housekeeper and later mistress of Rembrandt. One long bicycle route runs to Holysloot, a picturesque village consisting of one street, the Dorpsstraat. Along the way you can see all kinds of farms with traditional Dutch farmhouses called stolp. Here the houses, barns and sheds are all located under one high, single roof in the shape of a pyramid. Make sure to visit the Holysloter Die marina, owned by the John family, which oers a famous bicycle ferry to the other side in the direction of Broek in Waterland (there are daily ferries between 09:00 - 17:00 in July and August). Take the opportunity to stretch your legs at the outdoor caf or hire a rowboat, canoe or whisper boat. The nearby restaurant Het Schoolhuis and John marina provide information about various tourist destinations. Last, but not least, is the Volgermeer polder, which functioned as Amsterdams city dump in the 20th cen- tury. Since 2003, the area is part of a massive clean-up eort that will eventually result in a scenic park area. If nothing else, make sure to visit the beautiful church here. 40 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord INDONESIAN PUSPITA Virtually every Indonesian restaurant in Holland is stued full of wooden carvings, authentic wajang dolls and pic- tures of rice elds. Fortunately Puspita is one of the rare ex- ceptions. On the other hand, the interior puts one in mind of a bourgeois Dutch pub with old fashioned chairs and hor- rible lace curtains. As far as food goes, however, this small restaurant gets top marks and the rice table is brilliant and better than what passes for traditional Indonesian cuisine in the centre of town. We recommend the bakso ikan sh soup.QN-3, Purmerplein 5, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 15. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (8 - 15). TLGS INTERNATIONAL DE IJ-KEUKEN In the Third World its not unusual to have dinner at some- ones house for relatively little money. Although this is a way for the people of those nations to make ends meet, in Holland people do it because its trendy, yet practical and a good way for locals to show o their love of food without opening an expensive restaurant. One such Amsterdam home chef is Tinda. In a pleasant terraced house in Noord you can choose from Mediterranean, Far Eastern, North Af- rican or Dutch cuisine. Its not particularly cheap, however, as a four-course dinner will set you back about 45, but its denitely something dierent.QN-2, Koperslagerij 51, tel. (+31) 206 71 17 28, www.ij-keuken.nl. (45). TLG EYE BAR-RESTAURANT This restaurant is located inside the impressive EYE lm institute. The terrace provides incredible views of the River IJ and the wait sta are friendly and attentive, but the food isnt as impressive as the building in which this establish- ment is housed. The EYE Bar-Restaurant is in fact more of a restaurant than a bar, although wed feel more comfort- able recommending it as a good place to have a beer or a cocktail. In any case, even if youre not planning to eat or drink here, the modern building in the shape of an eye is worth a visit.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 02, www.eyebarrestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:30. (10 - 15). PTAULBXW THT Although there are many reasons to visit this trendy eatery, its fantastic patio overlooking the River IJ would have to be at the top of the list. Theres nothing better than enjoying a cold craft brew on this amazing terrace on a hot and sunny day. That said, THT also serves small, tasty international dishes which are meant to be shared among friends. This interesting concept allows each din- er to taste more than one dish.QN-2, Buiksloterweg 5c, tel. (+31) 207 60 48 20, info@tht.nl, www.tht.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (6 - 10). AB VERONICASCHIP As the name would suggest, this restaurant, caf and live music venue is hidden aboard a ship named Veronica, which is conveniently moored at the NDSM-Pier. You can stop by for a cup of coee, a beer and some snacks or a proper lunch. The chefs specialise in Dutch and interna- tional cuisine, but you can also just enjoy a sunset over the River IJ with a glass of wine or Champagne. The vessel is also available for weddings and special events. Although we enjoyed the classic uitsmijter, the Japanese yakitori also looked tempting. QM-2, NDSM-Pier 1, tel. (+31) 203 70 71 42, veronicaschip.info@gmail.com, www. veronicazendschip.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. B NEPALESE MT. EVEREST The Nepalese are among the most hospitable people in Asia and this holds true for the sta of this genuine Nepalese restaurant. Anyone whos ever visited the Hi- malayas will realise that only a handful of the spicy dishes on the are suitable for the western palates. Try delicious thalis and curries or the kukhura ko masu (with chicken bones) and wash it down with a refreshing Gurkha, the dark beer enjoyed by some of the worlds best trained soldiers. The dcor of Mt. Everest is typically Nepalese and the room is decorated with hundreds of colourful prayer ags, pictures of the highest mountain in the world and loads of burning candles.QN-2, Spreeuwen- park 3, tel. (+31) 206 32 60 55, www.mteverest.nl. Open 15:00 - 22:30. TLGS ORGANIC BITE ME Located in the trendy, arty Tolhuis Tuin, this concept caf is all about fresh, seasonal, preferably organic produce. But thats not all. Its inventive sta, none of whom are profes- sional chefs, shun convention and the shackles of tradi- tional recipes by creating unique combinations of ingredi- ents that most cooks wouldnt consider mixing together. Drop by its buet during the day or try one of its takeaway picnic lunches, which can be enjoyed at the tables outside or anywhere you choose. Catering for parties and events is also available.QN-2, Tolhuisweg 2, tel. (+31) 634 01 55 69, www.biteme.co.nl. BS Relax at a caf by the water in Amsterdam Noord Summer 2014 41 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord NIGHTLIFE Nothing can beat central Amsterdam for nightlife, but if youre looking for a laid back local pub devoid of tourists, Noord might be the place for you. CAFE KOFFIEHUIS BLOKKER Despite the fact that its name means coee house, its popularity has nothing to do with a good cup of Joe. This pub is a meeting place for guys from the neighbourhood who enjoy a game of cards, a spin at the slot machine and a chat about the latest news from the area over a few pints. Friendly folks and a pleasant atmosphere are the hallmarks of this place, but you probably shouldnt disturb the card players in the heat of a game. The terrace provides a view of the Mosveld Square outside, which sounds more pictur- esque than it actually is.QN-2, Mosveld 49, tel. (+31) 206 36 97 39. GBX CAFE T EITJE If there were prize for the ugliest bar exterior, Cafe t Eitje would be a strong contender. Thats also the reason why youll be so astonished by the classic interior, which fea- tures three dart boards and a pool table. In fact, a local dart club plays its matches at this friendly establishment and despite the unattractive location it can get quite busy here. Cafe t Eitje literally translates as Cafe the Egg and its located right next to Cafetaria de Kip, which means Cafeteria the Chicken. For a moment we wondered which of the two came rst, but we decided to leave this age-old question alone.QN-3, Motorwal 280, tel. (+31) 206 34 17 38, www.cafeteitje.nl. G CAFE VAN BELLE Like most other bars in the neighbourhood, the clien- tele of Cafe Van Belle consists of regulars who seem to know each other very well. Outsiders are not particularly welcome and as a result youll need to know something about Dutch billiards to impress the locals here. The in- terior of the bar is pleasant enough and features a large wooden counter, not to mention quite a few photo- graphs of Laurel and Hardy. The TV is usually tuned in to a sports channel in case the regulars dont feel like fraternising with you, the enemy.QM-2, Mosplein 26, tel. (+31) 206 36 16 75. G PANCAKES DE PANNEKOEKENBOOT The Pancake Boat cant be compared in any way to the traditional tour boats that roam the busy Amsterdam ca- nals. Even its route is completely dierent from those of its competitors. This oating double-decker doesnt follow the usual ring of canals, but takes you past all of the architec- tural masterpieces of Amsterdam North instead. But most of the people on board probably couldnt care less where the boats headed as their focus is on the enormous servings of pancakes on oer. The main draw of this oating food fac- tory is the all-you-can-eat pancake meal. Bon voyage and bon apptit!QM-2, Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel. (+31) 206 36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Tours begin at 13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10 depending on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGB SEAFOOD STORK Classic dishes like oysters, swordsh, sea bass, lobster and all kinds of other delicacies from the aquatic world are given a new dimension here and the industrial furnishings add to its potential. The lighting from the large windows is beautiful and almost artistic and the massive outdoor terrace is super trendy. Unfortunately, at times the wait- ers seem to get lost in this enormous space, which may mean that your delicious oven-baked dish might have to be sent back to the open-plan kitchen for a re-heat.QN-3, Gedempt Hamerkanaal t/o 96, tel. (+31) 206 34 40 00, www.restaurantstork.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. (19 - 23). TA6LGBXW STEAKS LOETJE AAN HET IJ Located in the heart of a brand new yacht marina, this futur- istic building has been transformed into an elegant eatery by a popular chain of Dutch steakhouses. A giant terrace on a wooden platform oers views of the river and an excellent place to tuck into a juicy sirloin or t-bone.QM-1, Werfkade 14, loetjeaantij.loetje.com. PALBXW TURKISH ELMAS There are exactly 110 dishes listed on the menu at Elmas, a modern Turkish restaurant in a multicultural neighbour- hood that oers the best cuisine the Anatolian peninsula has to oer. Luckily the menus neatly ordered, so its easy to nd your favourites among the many options. The only typically Turkish elements found here are the large num- ber of plates depicting well-known towns east of the Bos- porus, which adorn the walls. Elmas is also a good option for the daily all-you-can-eat buet for 6.50 is available till noon.QN-2, Spreeuwenpark 1, tel. (+31) 206 36 33 29, www.restaurantelmas.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (9 - 15). TALBXS Sailing vessels at Oranjesluizen 42 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord SIGHTSEEING Fancy a day spent picnicking in a park or wandering around a sculpture garden? Curious why Amsterdam Noord has only one ocial museum? Read on. BUILDINGS & ARCHITECTURE EL MOUSSHINE MOSQUE Just a short walk from the IJ-plein ferry landing youll nd this stunning blue-green Moroccan mosque designed by architect Gerard Rijnsdorp in 2005. Although not open to the general public its still worth a look from the outside. Further down the street on a lawn on the right is a colour- ful work of art by Alfred Eikelenboom (1987) entitled De Muur.QN-2, Meeuwenlaan. HET KRAANSPOOR Its usually standard practice to construct buildings verti- cally, but in Amsterdam-Noord the world of architecture has been turned upside down. With Het Kraanspoor ar- chitect Trude Hooykaas designed the largest, and pos- sibly the most beautiful block of ats in the Netherlands. The narrow track of land where shipbuilding cranes once swayed back and forth has been transformed into a giant transparent building. The 270m-long horizontal structure is an impressive mixture of the old NDSM shipyard and a modern glass structure suspended above concrete pillars forgotten by time.QM-2, Kraanspoor. THE GREEN DRAGON (DE GROENE DRAECK) The old dutch name De Groene Draeck (The Green Dragon) is derived from the historic at-bottomed yacht used by the Dutch royal family. Its located on the prem- ises of the former shipyard owned by a famous family of shipbuilders where the rst polyester yachts in the Neth- erlands were designed and constructed. Today, the build- ing is home to a variety of young and dynamic companies. QM-2, Grasweg. TROMMELWONINGEN Twiske West is part of a new development that consists of 12 circular residential buildings. Each so-called drum contains seven dwellings surrounding an open central courtyard. All of the homes occupy three oors and have a garden. Because each of the three storeys is comprised of one seventh of a circle, each apartment has abundant sunlight and a panoramic view of almost 160 degrees.QL- 2, Schelvisch Hoofd. WOODEN HOUSES Bundled together in little photogenic streets alongside picturesque dikes like the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwou- derdijk and the beautiful Nieuwendammerdijk, all of Noords 160 classic wooden homes are easily accessible by bike. Most of these forgotten testaments to an Amster- dam nearly lost were built in the 17th and 19th centuries, the two eras in which the dikes ourished.QM-3, Nieu- wendammerdijk. CHURCHES KERK ZUNDERDORP If someone ever organises a competition for the Most Beautiful Church in the Netherlands, this white-brown building will be a strong contender if not for its architec- tural splendour, then at least for its idyllic location. This place is remarkably quiet, although the bleating sheep and clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch atmo- sphere. But a plaque commemorating World War II victims and the bricked up windows hint that this place hasnt al- ways been so peaceful. If youd like to enjoy this beautiful spot permanently, its possible to reserve a space under the poplars and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services are held every Sunday morning at 10:00.QM-4, Achter- laan 20, Zunderdorp, www.kerkzunderdorp.nl/. SCHELLINGWOUDERKERK Due to limited space in the wetlands surrounding Amster- dam, buildings are usually built on top of the remains of a former structure and the Schellingwouderkerk is no excep- tion. Like many other 19th-century churches, its built on a mound at the bottom of an embankment. The churchs interior boasts a blue-green wooden ceiling and white plas- terwork.QN-4, Wijkergouw 6, Schellingwoude. MUSEUMS AMSTERDAM NORTH MUSEUM (MUSEUM DE NOORD) There are over 40 museums in Amsterdam, yet theres only one in Noord. Even though the history of Amsterdam North stretches back much further than that of the settlement on the other side of the River IJ, Amsterdams largest district didnt get its own museum until 2009. Located in the former public baths of the Vogeldorp, one of the characteristic gar- den cities of Noord, the museum tells the interesting story of this part of the capital. The museum also oers plenty of maps for guided or independent walking and cycling tours that will help you explore the attractions of North and its surrounding wetlands. An exhibition on a changing part of the history of Amsterdam North is held every three months. QN-3, Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02, www. museumamsterdamnoord.nl. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 4. TLNG The charming village of Zunderdorp and its famous church Summer 2014 43 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord PARKS & GARDENS NOORDERPARK For decades the heart of Amsterdam North was a messy combination of two parks (the Florapark and Volewijkspark), a canal and a busy through road. The two parks were har- moniously merged to create a green oasis nearly the size of the Vondelpark in the Museum district (45 hectares). The landscape of trees and elds is perfect for picnics.QM-2/3, Wingerdweg, www.noorderpark.amsterdam.nl. TOLHUISTUIN This lovely garden used to be reserved for employees of the petroleum giant Shell until it was returned to the city a few years ago. Now the Tolhuistuin has become a cultural centre in Amsterdam Noord, where you can enjoy food and drinks, watch and artistic performance or just chill out on the lawn.QN-2, Tolhuisweg 5, tel. (+31) 207 63 06 50, www.tolhuistuin.nl. PLACES OF INTEREST DURGERDAM Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer, where you can view some traditional wooden houses, a Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of wet- lands and polders. Another attraction is Durgerdams ma- rina, where you can gaze at luxurious yachts and envy the people entering the private sailing club.QN-5, Durgerdam. EYE FILM INSTITUTE EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects and displays lm-related ephemera like photographs, posters, soundtracks, equipment and directors archives. Its col- lection spans the entire length of lm history from silent lms to the newest digital productions. Called the heart of lm, the huge white spaces covering over 1200m2 pro- vide numerous interactive and educational lm projects, while four theatres each dierent in size and theme bring you the latest art-house lms and old classics. Many people take the free ferry here for the gorgeous view from its caf and outdoor terraces.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00, www.eyeflm.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:15. TJAULGBKXW MARITIME QUARTER What do boats like the Pollux, a magnicent steel three- masted schooner, the Amstel Botel, a former riverboat cruise ship that was transformed into a 3-star hotel, and the Sirius, a famous Greenpeace ship, have in common? Nothing, despite the fact that theyre all moored adjacent to the NDSM shipyard in the Maritime Quarter, a striking collection of ships and buildings situated around a long jetty. Other impressive vessels include the red Irish light- ship Finley that attracts cultural party-goers from around the city, the old Russian submarine and the wooden Mahu M880 minesweeper. Right next to the ferry is the platform for De Pannenkoekenboot where you can enjoy a cruise and an all-you-can-eat pancake buet.QN-4, NDSM-Pier. NAUTICADAM YACHT CLUB If youre sailing to Amsterdam Noord on a yacht and youre looking for a place to dock, then sail straight to this ma- rina where you can even have your vessel repaired after a rough journey on the sea. Unfortunate souls who dont own a ship can also stroll around Nauticadam and ad- mire the luxurious yachts in the harbour. Some people are usually at work on the small marine wharf as well. The Sail Caf is located in the back and oers refreshing drinks and a pleasant piece of lawn to lie down on.QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 284, tel. (+31) 206 32 06 16. Open 14:00 - 22:00. 6LGBKX NDSM-WERF (NDSM SHIPYARD) An excursion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must for anyone with a taste for modern architecture. For 60 years a massive shipping industry called the NDSM-ship- yard wharf home. Countless vessels left these legendary wharves, a part of the Dutch seafaring tradition that had lasted for centuries and made Amsterdam one of the planets economic powerhouses. But nothing lasts forever and the shipping industry suered greatly during the eco- nomic recession of the 1970s, which had a profound eect on Amsterdam-Noord and its residents. In 1984, the ship- yard nally closed its doors, but the misery caused by un- employment and the loss of a proud livelihood sowed the seeds of todays rebirth. The shipyard has been converted into a cultural venue that has become one of Amsterdams hottest entertainment centres. Concerts, festivals and the- atre are held amid a landscape of monumental industrial buildings.QM-2, NDSM-werf. STATUES & MONUMENTS THE BUTTON (DE KNOOP) The Button is one of the most celebrated works by de- ceased artist Andr Volten (2002). Inspired by the indus- trial environment of Noord, the ex-welder specialised in creating large brass and stainless steel objects. Whenever he had the time he would experiment with materials he found in the former shipyard. Although this steel giant seems to be a simple piece of art, a closer look will reveal a work full of depth.QM-2, Grasweg. Visit the tiny church at Schellingwoude 44 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord SHOPPING BEEKHOVEN BIKES This huge bike shop has been selling all manner of bicycles and accessories for over 25 years. It also specialises in rac- ing and electric bikes.QM-2, Draaierweg 16, tel. (+31) 206 31 71 20, www.beekhovenbikes.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A BLOM&BLOM The two Blom brothers, Kamiel and Martijn, have a passion for old industrial relics that most people see as junk. They restore or repurpose these forgotten artefacts and create incredibly stylish lighting xtures and furniture, which you can buy at their showroom in Amsterdam Noord.QM-2, Chrysantenstraat 20A, tel. (+31) 207 37 26 91, hello@ blomandblom.com, blomandblom.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. KASTINO MOLENWIJK Kastino oers a huge selection of cheeses including or- ganic brands by local producers.QL-2, Molenwijk 29, tel. (+31) 206 33 01 09, www.kastino.nl. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at work here or have a look at the gallery of nished prod- ucts. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment. QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39, www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A LANDMARKT AMSTERDAM Local organic farmers and horticulturists sell their pro- duce to Landmarkt. This spacious indoor hall is heaven on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh food, but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat, sh, vegetables and other daily necessities are hardly more expensive than the stu youll get at a regular shop. QN- 4, Schellingwouderdijk 339, www.landmarkt.nl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TAULG NEEF LOUIS Find vintage furniture, designer chairs and lots of industrial lamps in this enormous warehouse. Although you can nd some real gemse, dont expect to nd any bargains.QM-2, Papaverweg 46, tel. (+31) 204 86 93 54, www.neefouis. nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Summer 2014 45 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord SPORTS & LEISURE 9 GHOLES VOETGOLF AMSTERDAM Leave it to the Dutch to come up with a new way to utilise farmland. 9 Gholes is essentially a 9-hole golf course just outside of Zunderdorp, but for football enthusiasts. Instead of a club and a small ball, participants kick footballs from one hole to the next while trying to avoid obstacles along the way. You can also order lunch, snacks and drinks as part of the experience.QM-4, Broekergouw 2, tel. (+31) 619 23 43 03/(+31) 628 97 44 38, www.9gholes.nl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. MSTERDAM MARINA This beautiful harbour, which opened in 2013, oers slips for 350 sailing vessels. As long as your home on the water is between 7 and 30 metres long you can drop anchor at this historic harbour where huge ships have been built for cen- turies. Extras like free internet and a good steakhouse on the premises are a couple more reasons to choose mster- dam Marina as your home away from home.QM-1, Wer- fkade 4, tel. (+31) 206 31 07 67, www.amsterdammarina. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. JALKW NOORD FOR KIDS PIRATES TOUR Children can also be adventurous and search this wetlands area for real treasure. Up to ve children and one adult can take a rowboat and look for clues until they nd the pot of gold. QKanaaldijk 32a, Landsmeer, tel. (+31) 880 06 44 55, www.landschapnoordholland.nl/Piratentocht. Open 10.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon. (20/boat for 2 hours). Charming houses on the Buiksloterdijk 46 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Oost Amsterdam East, or simply Oost (pronounced oast), is an incredibly diverse district of the Dutch capital that encom- passes neighbourhoods that couldnt be more dierent from one another. The recently built IJburg island, which is still under construction, is a largely residential area that is home to modern architecture, a main street called IJburg- laan lled with cafs and shops and a public beach only minutes from the city centre, while the areas known as Indische Buurt and Dapperbuurt in the Zeeburg district are populated by immigrants, students and an increasing number of auent Amsterdammers who enjoy its diverse dining scene. Dapperbuurt hosts a huge market on one of the few streets in the region not named after an Indonesian island and is the ideal locale to try a Moroccan cookie or a real Turkish kebab. The KNSM and Java islands in the East- ern Docklands of the city once supported a huge working harbour, but are now mostly home to auent Amsterdam- mers. Finally, a trip to Oost wouldnt be complete without a visit to one of the trendy cafs on Linnaeusstraat by the Oosterpark or the authentic pubs of the Watergraafsmeer around Middenweg. ARRIVING IN OOST Most of Amsterdam East can be easily reached by public transport. To visit IJburg take tram No.26 from the Central Station. For Indische Buurt, Dapperbuurt, Flevopark and Watergraafsmeer take trams No.7 or 14 from Leidseplein. For KSNM and Java islands take tram No.10 to the last stop. ACCOMMODATION LLOYD HOTEL Once used as accommodation for emigrants waiting for their ship to depart, this monumental building overlook- ing the water dates back to the 1920s, but it was given a complete overhaul by a number of popular Dutch design- ers before it was re-opened as a hotel in 2004. The hotel has a unique concept as it oers rooms of varying styles and levels of comfort for guests of all tax brackets. Stay in a ve-star suite with loads of space, a huge bathtub and a grand piano or choose a Spartan, yet chic room with a bed, table, water view and shared bathrooms and toilets in the corridor.QP-1, Oostelijke Handelskade 34, tel. (+31) 205 61 36 36, www.lloydhotel.com. 117 rooms (117 dou- bles 80 - 300). THA6LGBKW hhh STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG Its 500 beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and six- bed dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior with an orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk beds, a sink and a separate shower and toilet. Security isnt a problem as guests can only access the corridor where their own room is located, but unfortunately youll have to stow your impor- tant gear in lockers on the ground oor. The IJ brewery is a short walk away.QP-2, Timorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31 90, www.stayokay.com. 500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms from 9, beds in four-bed dorms from 11, doubles from 32, quads from 42). HAUGBKW FOOD & DRINK BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, it was nally closed in 1980s when it apparently became more common for locals to bathe in their own homes. Today its hip design attracts fans of good style as well as good food and drink and its patrons can enjoy lunch and dinner not to men- tion tasty cocktails and uncommon beers like Texels and Jopen. The food ranges from salads and its signature Ab- erdeen Angus burger to rib-eye steaks and rabbit stew. A kids menu is also available.QP-2, Javaplein 21, tel. (+31) 206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (6 - 17). IBW CAF KUIJPER At the weekend its pretty much standing room only at Caf Kuijper where the music can scarcely be heard above the din of boisterous conversations energised by great draught brews from the IJ, Jopen and Texels breweries. If the crowds bring out your inner claustrophobia then go for a smoke or some fresh air out on the terrace. The fea- tures of the interior that stand out most would have to be the blue oral tiles, the strange, metallic lamps dangling from chains above the bar and a huge map of Amsterdam on the wall in the back, not to mention the golden palm trees. Snacks, soups, salads and sandwiches are also avail- able.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 65 19 26, www.cafekuijper.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (5 - 10). AB DE BIERTUIN If for some reason you cant seem to make it to the IJ brew- ery for a tasting, then drop by the Beer Garden, which serves a number of brews from Amsterdams famous brewery on draught and in bottles. Other tasty oerings include beers by Texels and other brewers from the Benelux region and all of them are poured in a bright and airy space that is nearly always laden with the perfume of roasting chickens that rotate on spits next to the bar. This is, of course, its special- ity and a bargain at just under 14. Note the three golden palms on the walls as well as the bars slogan God save the beer in large letters.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 29, tel. (+31) 206 65 09 56, www.debiertuin.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB Kids enjoying the summer on Java Island Summer 2014 47 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Oost KOFFIE IN OOST Although this cosy caf isnt particularly large it has man- aged to maximise its space by oering seating on the ground oor, upstairs and in the cellar. Exposed brick and bone white walls are spruced up with fresh cut tulips, stained glass and enormous shop front windows that bathe Coee in East in lots of natural light during the day. Drink gourmet coee or tea with a slice of chocolate cake or an everything bagel smothered in cream cheese or oth- er tasty toppings like lox, matured cheese and hummus. QP-2, Linnaeuskade 1A, tel. (+31) 207 76 44 87, www. kofeinoost.nl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ABSW DE PONTENEUR Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one has an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings con- founding the notion that Amsterdam cafs have to be claustrophobic. The rened menu is creative and oers such delicacies as lamb tournedos and homemade wild boar pate with toast and cranberry chutney and we partic- ularly enjoyed the shot of cauliower soup we were given to whet our appetite. A large reading table is available as well plenty of toys and games for the kids and live music is played every second Sunday of the month. Aordable daily specials are listed on the blackboard above the open- plan kitchen and a great selection of beer is also available. Naturally, in the summer all of this can be enjoyed on a large terrace outside.QP-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 581, tel. (+31) 206 68 06 80, www.ponteneur.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (12 - 15). ABW POMPSTATION If youre looking for a hip eatery in Oost, youll nd few better places than Pompstation. Although not exactly a traditional steak house, it does oer an extensive menu of meat dishes including a whole kilos woth of Cote de Boeuf and a dry aged Hereford from Uruguay. Naturally, these extraordinary slabs of beef come with a consider- ably higher price tag, but the unbeatable ambience is also included in the bill. The Pump Station is in fact a fully func- tioning industrial monument dating back to 1920, which is worth a visit for its unique interior alone.QP-2, Zeeburg- erdijk 53, tel. (+31) 206 92 28 88, www.pompstation.nu. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (19 - 25). TALGBKW WILDE ZWIJNEN This stylish restaurant behind the bathhouse on Javaplein is a bit more upmarket than most eateries in the area, but every neighbourhood needs a special place for foodies and ne diners. Patrons can choose from a 3- or 4-course chefs menu for 29.50 and 35.50, respectively, or try one of a few signature dishes from its small a la carte menu including its namesake the wild boar. Credit cards arent accepted, so bring cash or a bank card.QP-2, Javaplein 23hs, tel. (+31) 204 63 30 43, www.wildezwijnen.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. (20 - 30). BW SHOPPING DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET (DAPPERMARKT) One of the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt oers hundreds of street stalls selling household goods, cheap clothing, second-hand fashion, fresh produce and lo- cal specialities like smoked sh and traditional herring, not to mention Vietnamese spring rolls.QP-2, Dapperstraat, www.dappermarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. SIGHTSEEING MUSEUM OF THE TROPICS (TROPENMUSEUM) Housed in a monumental building that is also home to the Royal Tropical Institute, this museum is a must for students of anthropology and ethnography and anyone who ap- preciates non-Western cultures. Unlike many museums that are simply a catalogue of artefacts from ancient times and extinct civilisations, the Tropics Museum not only oers examples of antique art, but also household items and objects used in the daily lives of vibrant, living cul- tures throughout the tropical regions of the world from Indian Bollywood posters to African ads for hair salons. .QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205 68 82 00, www. tropenmuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 9, children 6 - 17 years 5, children 5 and under free. AK T NIEUWE DIEP DISTILLERY Located in a renovated pumping station on the water near the entrance to the Flevopark, this small distillery is partly owned by former archaeologist Kees Filius who has a passion for the Dutch tradition of distilling spirits. After years of trial and error the t Nieuwe Diep Distillery now produces roughly 100 of its own spirits made in small batches at this wonderful and historic location where even Rembrandt once painted its sublime view. A tour of the facilities is available every Friday at 16:00, but you can visit its tasting room on weekdays and sample the goods for yourself or buy a bottle to bring home as the perfect Amsterdam souvenir. QP-2, Flevopark 13, tel. (+31) 204 65 02 22, www.nwediep.nl. Tasting room: open 15:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. Distillery tour every Friday at 16:00. B A relaxing day by the water in Amsterdam Oost 48 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com West Amsterdam West is both a residential and commercial dis- trict of the city sandwiched between four parks, the Vondel Park, Rembrandt Park, Erasmus Park and Westerpark, so youre never far away from a green space for a picnic, some good cycling or just a relaxing time spent on a patch of grass. The area around Overtoom is legendary for its restau- rants that serve anything from Ethiopian to Iranian cuisine, not to mention its numerous shops, many of which special- ise in cutting-edge interior design items for homes and of- ces. Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat and Bilderdijkstraat are also home to cosy cafs and pubs, while the Wester- gasfabriek in the north of the district is a former industrial estate that has been converted into a creative cultural park full of galleries, clubs and restaurants - an absolute must- see in West! ARRIVING IN WEST Amsterdam West is right next to the city centre, so if you dont mind a brisk walk you can get there on foot from the Central Station in about 30 - 45 minutes. Of course, not everyone wants to drag their luggage around town, so just take tram No.1 to reach Overtoom. For De Clercqstraat and Admiraal De Ruijterweg take tram No.13. For the Wester- park and Westergasfabriek take bus No.22 from the station to the last stop Spaarndammerbuurt and then walk the rest of the way. ACCOMMODATION HOTEL ROEMER Spread out over two renovated mansions in the Museum District, this place is cosy and warm, yet also stylish and luxurious. In three of the rooms youll have to make do with rainforest showers, but all others have their own pri- vate Jacuzzis and if youd like a drink, dont bother look- ing for a mini-bar. Just pour yourself a cocktail from the fully stocked bar, which is included in the price. An iPod docking station, Nespresso machine, wi- and TV with DVD player are also standard amenities here and a cot- tage is available in the Zen-like garden behind the hotel. QT-4, Roemer Visscherstraat 10, tel. (+31) 205 89 08 00, www.vondelhotels.com. 23 rooms (doubles from 180, executive from 210, junior suites from 280). PAGW hhhh FOOD & DRINK DE KEU There are dozens of pool tables and a great Bohemian vibe here at one of Amsterdams oldest billiards halls. The walls are covered in old movie posters and theres always plenty of people hanging about with drinks in their hands. Open until the wee hours of the morning, the Cue is much more than just a place to play eight ball. Its also one of Amsterdam Wests best late night hotspots.QT-4, Eerste Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31) 202 30 05 51, www.dekeu. nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. DOSA Although this authentic restaurant serves familiar tan- doori, biryani and curry dishes, it also claims to be the only place in town to serve South Indian dosa a kind of pancake made of rice and lentil our stued with all kinds of llings. It also specialises in a wide variety of vegetarian cuisine, but you can also order plenty of lamb, chicken and seafood in this elegant space decorated with wood carv- ings. We particularly enjoyed the mild and creamy Goa- style king prawns.QS-4, Overtoom 146, tel. (+31) 206 16 48 38, www.dosaindianrestaurant.nl. Open 16:00 - 23:30. (13 - 18). VS FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA Klein, or small, could refer to the actual restaurant, which is undoubtedly on the tiny side, but it could also refer to the menu which shows a small glimpse of an entire con- tinents culinary traditions, especially those of East Africa. Order an Ethiopian St George beer while you ponder the choices in front of you before inevitably asking the friendly wait sta to recommend something authentic and tasty. We ended up getting the most bang for our euro by try- ing the bebeayenetu, which is a combination of dierent dishes served on a giant pancake of sorts. The atmosphere inside was vibrant, hot and humid, not unlike the stereo- typical vision of sub-Saharan Africa. Only cash and bank cards are accepted.QS-4, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 147, tel. (+31) 204 12 44 42, www.facebook.com/pages/Fenan- Klein-Afrika/219525594730870?fref=ts. Open 17:00 - 23:00. B GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL This is the last of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in op- eration, but the bartender did hint that its other former locations in the city centre would eventually re-open, so keep your ngers crossed. In the meantime you can take a 10-minute tram ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont have your favou- rite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials writ- ten on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shelves of glasses.QS-4, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12 94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB Children on Mercatorplein Summer 2014 49 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket West PACIFIC PARC Although located in a huge space in a renovated factory, this place manages to pull o a Pacic luau theme with sh lamps, an indoor barbecue pit, tiki-style furniture and a co- lourful chandelier about the size of a Volkswagen, which is too bizarre for words. During the day its a good place to hang out with the family, especially at the picnic tables outside, but in the evening its best to leave the little ones at home as Pacic Parc becomes a club with live DJs and dancing. You can order standard salads and sandwiches for lunch and full meals for dinner, but dont expect grilled mahi-mahi, poi or other Polynesian staples.QS-2, Polon- ceaukade 23 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204 88 77 78, www.pacifcparc.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 15). AB WESTERUNIE Located next to the green Westerpark just outside the city centre, this massive culture and entertainment com- plex spans several former factories from the 19th century, with multi-oored industrial spaces of over 2500 square metres. You can nd a party for every audience including popular music festivals such as Pitch (in July), house fests like Straf-werk and queer-friendly Funhouse parties. Try not to get lost in the maze that is the WesterUnie building. The cool people who hang out here would enjoy that too much.QS-2, Klnnenplein 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 84 84 96, www.westerunie.nl. AB SHOPPING BRITISH GENERAL STORES A massive range of genuine British goodies including HP sauce, Heinz baked beans and great English sausages. .QS-4, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 94, tel. (+31) 206 83 61 91, www.britishstore.nl. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA DESIGN OVERTOOM Design Overtoom sells funky and stylish lamps, mugs, fur- niture and the like, but remember that hip interior design doesnt come cheap.QS-4, Overtoom 371, tel. (+31) 206 89 81 50, www.designovertoom.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. A RETRO IN- & OUTSTYLES This vintage shop is crammed to the rafters with second- hand overcoats, dresses, sweaters, scarves and even bridal accessories.QS-4, 2e Constantijn Huijgensstraat 57, tel. (+31) 206 83 41 80, www.retrostyles.nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. VISHANDEL SMIT The aroma of freshly fried sh already entices as you pass by on the street outside. Order oysters or a plate of fried prawns and eat them standing up at the counter or buy fresh seafood to take away.QS-4, 1e Constantijn Huy- gensstraat 92, tel. (+31) 206 16 73 08. Open 08:00 - 17:45, Sat 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. S SIGHTSEEING HET SCHIP MUSEUM One of the crowning achievements of Amsterdam School architecture, this unusual building was erected in 1919 as proof that aordable working-class housing could not only be functional, but stylish. The historic edice is still inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the museum, which begins at a former post oce decorated with funky tile work characteristic of this Dutch design movement. Guides will lead you around the building pointing out interesting features like the bay window that looks like a cigar, little windmills on the faade that sym- bolise the rural workers who came to work in the citys fac- tories and the iconic tower, which is meant to be a beacon of socialism. QS-2, Spaarndammerplantsoen 140, tel. (+31) 204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl/nl/. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7.50. A WESTERPARK If you keep following the popular Haarlemmerdijk shop- ping street in the Jordaan past the Haarlemmerplein youll eventually run into Westerpark, which is anked by a canal on one side and train tracks and housing estates on the other. On one end youll nd a water feature, a childrens playground and lots of walking and bike paths, while the far side is a vast open space popular with picnickers and kids honing their football skills. Just beyond the park is the Westergafabriek, a former industrial zone that has been reclaimed by cafs, clubs and galleries.QT-2, Between Haarlemmerweg and Zaanstraat. WINDMILL DE BLOEM This proud gristmill towers above a quiet industrial area on the edge of the city. The octagonal structure is a good ex- ample of a Dutch style smock mill and from time to time it still serves its original purpose grinding grain into our. Its worth a visit if youre in the area, but unless youve made an appointment with the miller, De Bloem can only be ad- mired from outside. The mill dates from 1768, when it was built on a bastion of Amsterdams 17th-century city wall. During the 19th century, the city expanded westwards and as the fortications were gradually torn down, the mill was moved here in 1878.QS-2, Haarlemmerweg 465, tel. (+31) 206 82 30 04. L Take in some sunshine at the Westerpark 50 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Zuid Amsterdam Zuid, or South, is perhaps best known for its large concentration of superb museums, which is the rea- son so many hotels are also located here. It will come as no surprise then that the citys very own Rodeo Drive, P.C. Hooftstraat, which is occupied by brands such as Bulgari, Vuiton and Chanel, is surrounded by 4- and 5-star ac- commodation in Zuid. Just east of the so-called Museum Quarter youll nd the hip De Pijp district full of bohemian cafs, fun bars and unique shops. Its also home to the Al- bert Cuyp Market, packed with stalls selling pretty much anything. Just take tram No.2 or 5 to reach the heart of the district. CREAM OF THE CROP CONSCIOUS HOTEL MUSEUM SQUARE As far as price is concerned, this is one of the better ho- tels in town, even though the exterior doesnt suggest anything exciting. The size of the simple, but clean and comfortable rooms vary from reasonable to extraordi- narily large, especially when one considers similar accom- modation in Amsterdam. Then again, only its sister hotel on Overtoom is truly similar. Both try to be as green and eco-friendly as possible using recycled materials in their furnishings and even oer organic breakfasts. The Von- del Park is a short stroll away and the centre of town is about a 15-minute walk, but two main tram lines are just around the corner, if youre in a hurry.QDe Lairessestraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 71 95 96, fax (+31) 206 71 17 56, www. conscioushotels.com. 36 rooms (doubles and family rooms 95 - 174). ALGBW hhh EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ri- diculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy. Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra ameni- ties such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping services.QH-10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@ amsterdamfb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80 rooms (doubles from 59). PZJAULGW FOOD & DRINK BAZAR Located in a huge space that was once a church in the middle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Ba- zar oers a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and North African dishes too numerous to men- tion here. Suce it to say, that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and hummus to exotic seafood and lots of cuisine with tangy harissa sauce. The food is refreshingly aordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual. De- spite the Islamic dcor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits can be ordered at the central bar.QH-8, Albert Cuypstraat 182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). A THE OYSTER CLUB Located in the historic stadium that hosted the 1928 Olympic Games as well as its fair share of Ajax football matches, The Oyster Club, not surprisingly, specialises in fresh seafood, sushi and, of course, oysters. Not unlike the stadium itself, the restaurant and lounge is incredibly spa- cious and oers stylish dcor as well as a huge outdoor ter- race when the weather cooperates. Opened in 2013, it has quickly become a local hotspot on weekend nights when hip and auent Amsterdammers drop by for DJs and ex- cellent cocktails.QOlympisch Stadion 35, tel. (+31) 205 70 84 00, www.theoysterclub.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (30 - 50). ALBW V-BAR This upmarket lounge bar is all about relaxation, but bear in mind that the prices on the extensive wine list can quickly take the wind out of your sails. If money is no object, then take a seat at one of the colourful couches or on a sturdy Asian-style pouf. As you sit with a glass of pinot noir next to the open gas fire the prob- lems of the outside world seem to vanish and the won- derful view from the terrace is sublime.QKoningin- neweg 34 - 36, tel. (+31) 206 64 61 11. Open 11:00 - 01:00. PHAGBW YAMAZATO The best time to visit the only Japanese restaurant in Eu- rope with a Michelin star is in the spring when the cherry blossoms in its private garden are in bloom. But even if you dine here in the dead of winter you wont be disap- pointed with the classic Sukiya-style interior, the sta in authentic kimono or the traditional Kaiseki cuisine. When the restaurant rst opened in the 1970s it ew local sh suppliers to Japan to show them how seafood was sup- posed to be presented for consumption, which means that the sh they now serve is up to Japanese standards and the more exotic additions to the menu are own in from Japan.QFerdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura), tel. (+31) 206 78 74 50, www.yamazato.nl. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:30. (40 - 80). P Hanging out in the shadow of the colossal Rijksmuseum Summer 2014 51 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zuid SIGHTSEEING ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT) This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery, fresh seafood like crab and lobster, owers, lingerie, souve- nirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls. QH-9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE If youd like to see how one of the worlds most popular beers is made and sample the nished product at its ul- tramodern bar, then look no further than the Heineken Ex- perience, which truly is an experience. Although this tasty brew, which is distributed in over 170 countries around the globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour and learn about the companys evolution from its found- ing in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a mul- tinational brand. View exhibits that chronicle Heinekens innovative leaps in both brewing technology and market- ing that launched the famous red star logo on six conti- nents..QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30 (last tour at 17:30). Admission: 17. AU HOUSE OF BOLS COCKTAIL AND GENEVER EXPERIENCE Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one the worlds oldest spirits makers. Its renowned jenever recipe dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the Brit- ish roughly 25 years later where it was modied to English tastes and produced locally as gin. Although the venerable company moved away to a location near The Hague in 1969 it opened this amazing tasting experience and bartending school near the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam in 2007. The award-winning Genever Experience showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries around the world as well as the wide varieties of jenevers it produces. Take a self-guided, interactive tour and learn about the history of the House of Bols.QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75, www.houseofbols.nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 11.50. A RIJKSMUSEUM This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block and is nally open to the public again after years of reno- vations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts and of course an incredible collection of the nations best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and Steen. Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and windmilled landscapes to portraits and illustrations of 17th-century family life, not to mention exotic scenes from Hollands far ung Golden Age colonies. Some of the museums most famous paintings like Rembrandts The Jewish Bride and The Night Watch are also described in detail in laminated information cards, so you can take your time and discover interesting facts about each of these canvases. Queues can be long at peek times, mostly due to security checks, so plan accordingly.QF-9, Mu- seumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admis- sion: adults 15, under 18 free. VAN GOGH MUSEUM Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his short 10-year career. After dabbling in religious vocations and art selling, he nally embarked on his true calling in 1880, which is where the museums permanent exhibit begins. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so re- nowned only appeared later during his time in Paris when he discovered colour. Although the museum is indeed a shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied col- lection of works by world-famous artists from early men- tors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupr to such icons of Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir, Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew inspi- ration. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and under free. AUKW STEDELIJK MUSEUM The Netherlands most important museum for modern and contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected eight years, but is now open to the public. The entrance has moved from the street to the park side, which means that the cultural living room of Amsterdam now has its own chill-out and meeting area outside. The addition of a new building has doubled the size of the museum and the Stedelijk is now the proud owner of the largest exhibi- tion space in Holland. It has no windows, which makes this 1100m2 area also suitable for displaying digital and video art. The interior of the old and new buildings have been completely integrated, so youll hardly notice where the 100-year-old edice ends and the modern one begins. Just remember that the old part houses the permanent collec- tions, while the new building displays exhibitions.QF-10, Museumplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk. nl. Admission: adults 10, under 18 free. AK The Albert Cuyp Market is an absolute must-see in Zuid 52 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Zuidoost Zuidoost is Amsterdams most multicultural district. More than 130 nationalities live here and these diverse cultural backgrounds are reected in its many festivals with foreign roots like the Summer Festival, which is spread across ve weekends in July and August, and the Southeast Jazz Fes- tival in August. And despite its many modern skyscrapers, Zuidoost, or de Bijlmer as the locals call it, can often feel like a small village. It boasts several parks and green spaces includ- ing the Gaasper Park, the crown jewel of them all. Its also a fairly new area, its rst houses having been built as recent as 1968. Recent development around Ajaxs stadium, the Amsterdam Arena, has led to a cultural renaissance, not to mention an economic boom. Amsterdams biggest shop- ping centres and megastores are almost all located here and the Heineken Music Hall and the brand new Ziggo Dome are both state of the art concert halls attracting world renowned talent from around the globe. Take in a concert, spend the day shopping or just walk around and experience the diver- sity of this vibrant area that most tourists never see. ARRIVING IN ZUIDOOST Zuidoost can be easily reached by metro, train or bus. The easiest way to get here is to take a 20-minute metro ride from the Central Station. Yellow line 54 begins at the Cen- tral Station and ends at Gein, while green line 50 passes the western part of the city and has the same destination. Red line 53 follows the yellow line until Van der Madeweg and then travels east until it reaches the Gaasperplas. ACCOMMODATION FLETCHER HOTEL AMSTERDAM This huge hotel is so modern it looks like it belongs in a sci- ence ction movie. To nd it just look for the shimmering blue polka-dotted column rising up from the Schepen- bergweg. But the futuristic theme doesnt end there as all of the rooms also look like accommodation on the Starship Enterprise, but much more luxurious. That said, the see- through shower tube in the middle of the room might not be to everyones liking or perhaps just the opposite. You can also enjoy excellent food and drink on the top oors of the building in either the Pi Sky Lounge or the Pi Sky Bar.QU-2, Schepenbergweg 50, tel. (+31) 203 11 36 70, www.fetcherhotelamsterdam.nl. 120 rooms (doubles from 109). PHAFKW HOSTELLE Dont feel safe staying at a dingy backpackers hovel that caters to stag parties or dodgy drifters? No problem. This wonderful hostel designed by women for women oers stylish accommodation for ladies whod like to avoid the lesser representatives of the male species. Stylish private rooms include ensuite facilities and amenities like sham- poo and toiletries, while the dorms have in-room lockers and a shelf next to each bunk bed. Each room has a dier- ent theme so you can pretend that youre on the African savannah or in a Chinese palace. Many rooms also include balconies and a rooftop terrace is available.QU-2, Franke- maheerd 2, tel. (+31) 207 70 35 04, www.hostelle.com. (8-bed dorms from 19/person, 6-bed dorms from 21/ person, 4-bed dorms from 23, double rooms from 35). Breakfast: 5. AW FOOD & DRINK BAGELS & BEANS This huge chain of Dutch bagel joints has taken the Neth- erlands by storm and as much as wed like to poke fun at this large food franchise we have to admit that, although the bagels here wont top the warm New York bagels of our youth, theyre probably the best weve had on this continent. Naturally, a wide choice of coee, tea and juice is also available as well as free wi-, so if youre in the area then drop by, power up your iPad and enjoy a tasty tuna melt bagel or something else from its large menu. QV-1, Bijlmerplein 561 B, tel. (+31) 203 65 33 81, www. bagelsbeans.nl. Open 08:02 - 18:03, Sat 09:01 - 17:32, Sun 09:32 - 17:32. (4 - 7). ASW EETCAFE 100% ZO This gay-friendly restaurant/bar has been entertaining patrons from the heart of the giant Amsterdamse Poort shopping centre since 2009. Although shoppers often seem lost in this massive commercial space, as soon as you enter this cosy place youll feel right at home. Is it the genuine smile of the friendly sta or perhaps their rather sexy outts? Whatever the reason may be, you wont regret staying for a bite of the abundant sandwiches or the simple homemade meals. Since Zuidoost is known for its multicultural vibe, it comes as no surprise that the small menu also lists some tasty Surinamese pas- tries.QBijlmerplein 367, tel. (+31) 206 91 25 93, www. eetcafezuidoost.nl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 15). AUEGBKXW KING DONER This restaurant seems to be a cut above the rest of the streetside vendors and small kebab joints that litter this area of town. Since 2004, the sta have made tasty kebabs right in front of you before quickly sending you o pack- ing. If you dont mind the plain atmosphere you can also choose to relax and have a seat.QU-1, Bijlmerplein 561E, tel. (+31) 206 96 60 00, www.kingdoner.nl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. The Amsterdam ArenA in Zuidoost Summer 2014 53 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zuidoost ICHI-E Liberally translated, the Japanese saying Ichi-Go Ichi-E means to enjoy the moment, which isnt really hard to do in this trendy, modern place. Whatever section you choose, the ground oor with its rotating bar, the rst oor with its attractive tables or the top oor with the view and pleas- ant outdoor terrace, youre guaranteed to have a great ex- perience. The dcor is ultra trendy and although the dishes are slightly overpriced and the sta are still in nappies, the food is quite good. The real Japanese chefs (no foreign sub- stitutes here) turn every sashimi and sushi dish into a small feast for the senses.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 175, tel. (+31) 206 91 02 31, www.ichi-e.nl. Open 11:30 - 21:00. (13 - 18). PZTAULGBKSW LANGERLUST This place deserves a pat on the back, if only because the national ban on smoking is strictly adhered to here. And few places in Amsterdam have better atmosphere than this eatery located in the Gaasper Park nature reserve. With views of a windmill and green surroundings, this is one of the best cafs in Zuidoost. We recommend the rustic burger or the Runderlende sandwich, a thick piece of homemade bread lled with veal and aged cheese. The salads and the shrimp kroketten are also reliable choices and you can wash them down with a good house wine. The view of the idyllic herb garden also makes it worth the trip.QW-2, Provincialeweg 24, tel. (+31) 203 42 04 40, www.langerlust.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (9 - 15). iTHA6ULGBKXW STARBUCKS Four stools, six tables, a leather couch and a simple seating area: thats all the dcor this Starbucks has to oer. And of course a lot of good coee. However, if youd like to sit outside, thats possible as well in this stations refresh- ment room. Its also a good place for people not addicted to caeine, as it has a wide selection of freshly squeezed smoothies and spicy drinks like chai tea. If youre simply looking for a snack, you could always gorge on some of the many cakes and pastries in the display cases, but you should avoid the seats near the front door on cold days, unless youre Inuit.QU/V-1, Arena Boulevard 618, www. starbucks.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. ZTAULBSW BIKE RENTAL MARC BIKE SHOP This bike shop next to the train station does it all. Since 2008 it has rented, sold, stored and repaired all kinds of bi- cycles. The bikes are well-maintained and easy to ride and they also come with a lock above the back tire. If you arent familiar with these locks be sure to ask directions before you pedal o into the sunset.QV-1, Hoekenrode 10A, tel. (+31) 206 96 78 80, www.marcbikeshop.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AL SHOPPING AMSTERDAMSE POORT Over 230 shops are concentrated in this huge open-air shopping centre. Partly covered, partly open you can buy anything here from shoes and home furnishings to childrens clothing or perhaps a new bike. A large num- ber of food stores are also located at this massive mall and over 9 million people visit Amsterdamse Poort each year so they must be doing something right. Although it can be easily reached by public transport, the area is sur- rounded by huge parking garages with spaces for more than 10,000 vehicles in case you have your own car. Dont leave without visiting the Shopperhal. This covered mar- ket resembles the multicultural society of this district best. QV-1, Bijlmerplein, www.amsterdamsepoort.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. UL MEDIA MARKT This is probably the largest electronics shop in Amsterdam and it also has some of the longest opening hours in the city. Apart from all the necessary audio/visual equipment, Media Markt also has a wide variety of beauty and well- ness gadgets.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 123 - 125, tel. (+31) 205 64 16 16, www.mediamarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TAUL SIGHTSEEING WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA) If youre into football, a visit to the Arena, the hallowed home of the players in red and white, might be a good option. You can join a guided tour of the stadium in Zui- doost five times each day after youve paid the 14.50 fee, which is, of course, much cheaper than a ticket to an actual match. The tour lasts abut an hour and you finish back where you started. It predictably ends at the club shop where you can express your newly acquired love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white sou- venirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13 36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Ad- mission: adults 14.50, children 5 - 12 years 9.50. Take metro line 54 from the Central Station to the Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena stop and then follow signs to Main Entrance E. Zuidoost is famous for its shopping opportunities 54 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Gay Amsterdam Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands be- came the rst country in the world to ocially recognise same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in the city centre, rainbow ags on nearly every other street and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are with- in easy walking distance of one another. The prime area is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants. Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district (with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs). INFORMATION GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC) This place oers lots of information about everything youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Am- sterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and publications. You can also buy stu at its Gays&Gadgets shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A SAUNAS THERMOS SAUNA One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies, students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the laby- rinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground oor that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and whirlpool. The dcor is still very much stuck in the 1970s and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant, but most men seem to focus on other things, which ex- plains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend. An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available for those in need and free condoms can be found at the bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, ofce@ thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Ad- mission: under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26 and over 19. PJFNGBKXC NIGHTLIFE CAFE LELLEBEL Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll nd an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife, which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and meat markets. This self-proclaimed drag show bar is a cosy haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a cutting edge design bar so popular with the gay scene these days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and gays have enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and it always makes a good showing at the gay canal boat parade each year and is the place to go for karaoke every Tuesday night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204 27 51 39, www.lellebel.nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A CAF ROUGE Red like a cheap brothel, this unpretentious late night spot attracts a diverse crowd willing to party and score. A live DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture of gay classics, Eurovision and modern pop. The walls lled with photos of Dutch and international royalty add to the campy at- mosphere where anything can happen. Anything can also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days like Queens Day its a safe option for fun.QG-6, Amstel 60, tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81, www.caferouge.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PJNG CLUB CHURCH This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two oors of play and dance areas that oer changing theme par- ties and DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are available for use including slings, private cabins and even a Saint Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it as wild or rough as youd like it, but its probably not the best place to have your rst gay experience and denitely not an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with your straight business colleagues.QF-7, Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl. Open Tue, Wed 20:00 - 01:00, Thu 22:0004:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:0004:00. Closed Mon. PJNGX MONTMARTRE Always packed at the weekend, Montmartre can be a bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodily contact and irting with the hot young boys in their teens and twenties that come here are in for a real treat. Cheesy pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven for all Dutch queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk, croon with Sandra Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the night away. You can also use its happy hour from 18:00 - 20:00 to get in the mood.QB-3, Halvemaansteeg 17, tel. (+31) 20 620 76 22, www.cafemontmartre.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGX Think pink when youre in Amsterdam Summer 2014 55 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Gay Amsterdam OLDEST GAY BAR Although Amsterdam is now one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world, it wasnt always such a pillar of tolerance. But one woman had an incredible inuence on the Dutch capital and its residents. Bet van Beeren was born in 1902 and spent her childhood in the Jordaan district of Amsterdam, before opening her legendary bar t Man- dje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk in 1927. Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay, straight, bi or otherwise - could have a drink, provided they behaved themselves. In those days the police could revoke a bars license for promoting what we today would call a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close watch on her patrons making sure there werent any obvious displays of af- fection between same-sex couples with perhaps the exception of Queens Day (now Kings Day) a tradi- tion that began after WWII. On this magical day pretty much anything was possible and t Mandje gained a reputation as the ultimate place to celebrate this Dutch holiday. That said, Bet usually took an interest in her patrons and if she observed anyone misbehaving, she would penalise them by cutting o an article of cloth- ing with a butchers knife, hence all of the ties nailed to the ceiling. As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attrac- tions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman who drank like a sh and smoked like chimney, she was also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gain- ing the respect of her patrons and neighbours who often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard ta- ble of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects to her over the course of two days. The bar nally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets niece, Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help of her husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje B-1, Zeedijk 63, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Tue 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PRIK Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother, and have a drink to start the night o. Prosecco on tap, sexy cocktails, tasty nger food a live DJ and a good vibe will probably make you linger around longer than you might have planned. It was voted several times as the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why. Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02, www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGB REALITY Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to the other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, meren- gue and calypso is also available for those who are fed up with the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their toys are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206 39 30 12, www.barreality.freehomepage.com. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJNG TABOO This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly and at- tentive and a comfy smoking room on the rst oor which seems to be a winning combination especially on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two happy hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00) has also helped to build up a steady and happy clientile. Sundays oer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207 75 39 63, www. taboobar.nl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGBX THE QUEENS HEAD At the head of the Zeedijk the Queens Head is an old time gay favourite with a loyal clientele. Friendly bar sta, chan- deliers, drag nights and hilarious bingo nights on Thurs- days are all major draws. Downstairs a cosy backroom with a romantic canal view is also available and live DJs spin music at the weekend. In short, its a lovely place to actu- ally meet other people.QB-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20 24 75, www.queenshead.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGBX VIVELAVIE An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still alive and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails and dance in the late hours in this Art Deco-style space. The menu oers tapas, tosties and other nger food and the music varies from lounge to gay classics. QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01 14, www.vivelavie.net. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJNGBX 56 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Coffeeshops SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery E Live music B Outside seating X Smoking section S Takeaway W Wi HIGHER EDUCATION For everyone with an interest in cannabis or questions about can- nabis, the Cannabis Col- lege is a must-visit. Not only can you learn about the risks and benets of cannabis, the sta at the information centre will gladly advise you where to buy good weed and which cof- feeshops you should avoid. Cannabis College is a non- prot organisation aimed at educating the public about cannabis in an unbiased, scientically backed, manner. Their library is a gold mine of information about can- nabis, particularly if youd like to learn about the plants medical potential. Cannabis College also provides training for sta members of several coeeshops and, believe it or not, they have even trained Dutch police ocers! All the information is free, as well as a visit to the small, labo- ratory-like garden downstairs. The worlds only college of cannabis education is located in the heart of the Red Light district at B-2, Ou- dezijds Achterburgwal 124, www. cannabiscollege.com. Whether you smoke the herb or not, coeeshops in Am- sterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose the right one and it'll be an experience you'll never forget. Choose the wrong one and you you'll probably forget that you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many dif- ferent types of coeeshops, for dierent kinds of people. Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan mon- asteries (once you're stoned) and others like super-modern cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating, sometimes near the canal. Coeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long history (Mellow Yellow was the rst one in 1973), even during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas, proof enough that the system works (for the 'evil' criminal gangs anyway). Given the city's status as a major shipping hub and its maze of canals, it's not hard to imagine how drug track- ing in this city was an attractive option. Coeeshops could easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today, they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic op- tion. After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of coeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided here. They are selected from across the city, so that you're never at any point far away from one of these exceptional Dutch institutions. COFFEESHOPS Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative politics and a national law have sent many a foreign toker looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint. The law states that only residents of Holland may buy and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at cof- feeshops. Although more strictly enforced in other areas of the country, the wise and commerce driven Amsterdammers have done what they usually do when they dont like a law. For the most part, the city and the police have turned a blind eye to the law fearing a catastrophic loss of tourism euros. Obviously, when in doubt just ask the staf at a cofeeshop and hope for the best. ABRAXAS Down a side-street o one of the main boulevards in Amsterdam Centrum, youll nd this surprisingly cosy medium-size coeeshop spread over several narrow oors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well organised and ecient sta make this an attractive op- tion for a relaxed (but brief ) break while touring the citys many delights. Longer stays at this coeeshop will per- mit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfort- able smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14, abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 - 01:00. J AMNESIA The rst thing to be said about this coeeshop is that its part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup Awards and therefore should be on the map for any con- noisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the ca- nal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well as equally pleasant and ecient sta. A choice of games and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coeeshop is well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this a prime summer coeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel. (+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Summer 2014 57 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Coffeeshops EMBRACING THE HAZE When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam one should also bear in mind that there are usually two types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and non- haze which has a somewhat milder eect. The price dierence may sometimes be quite substantial be- tween these two types, as haze weed plants (usually strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually strong indicas). If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily con- sumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned you can get, but beware as some types may stick you to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the second part). Just remember to have fun! BARNEYS This coeeshop review is more about the three establish- ments which are part of Barneys coeeshop empire and all located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance of each other. One venue is a coeeshop, the other is a bar/ restaurant and the nal one is a souvenir shop/bar and smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places, you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts content in an at- tractive environment with a pleasant dcor. Popular partic- ularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and drink, or get high and have a coee. And to get high with a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be made here, but once your desires have been met, it is always good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/ lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropri- ate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat 105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69, www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P BULLDOG NO. 90 Arguably the rst ever coeeshop in Amsterdam, this es- tablishment combines cannabis history and getting high with an excellent central location. With seating overlook- ing the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the canal outside, this coeeshop is an ideal place any time of year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the orange (youll understand once you get here) tells the story of this venerated establishment, which gives o a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with internet access are available (for a fee) for any last-minute travel ar- rangements or any web addicts and the sta are friendly and helpful. Finally, the herb purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. A small, but important detail when you want to get your smoke on in a hurry.QB-2, Ou- dezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64, www. thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB DOLPHINS You wont nd a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as your guide you can make a selection from the aordable and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The con- stant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and the friendly sta can ensure all your needs are met down here underwater, although you may have to swim to the surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 25 91 62. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GBXW EASY TIMES With more then 40 wonderful choices on weed and hash, this is smokers paradise. If you prefer a bong or vaporizer to reach a trippy experience, settle down in the Arabian style room in the back. A shining red carpet, in normal life only to be walked on by VIPs or other arrogant twats, leads the way to this Walhalla on Earth. And if you got problems getting high, just watch one of the four giant plasma screens where CNN, BBC and all those other news stations keep on broadcasting in what fucked up world we live in. Funny and handy souvenirs like a pink glass elephant ash- tray (were not kidding) can be purchased from the small booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206 26 57 09,. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW 58 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Coffeeshops FUNNY PEOPLE This coeeshop is a bit dark and on the small side, but the candles, comfy seating and cushions all ensure a relatively cosy experience and its located near the train station. The dcor has no particular theme, but is still pleasing to the eye even before a smoke. A TV and some board games are available as well as a few snacks. A good choice to get a quick high while waiting for a train or hotel check-in.QB- 1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31) 206 23 86 63. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JGX LA TERTULIA Open since 1983, one of the oldest coeeshops in Amster- dam is also one of the most appealing and original. Apart from the relatively ordinary weed menu, the environment which the friendly mother and daughter create here, in- cludes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy experiences at every corner. The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and toasties is more extensive than in most coeeshops in Amsterdam and the many plants, as well as the multiple levels and patio furniture make one feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. The outside seating next to the canal in a quiet area of the city makes for a relaxed break while wandering the beautiful surroundings. Dont leave without taken at least one bite from their delicious home- made weed brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31) 206 23 85 03, www.cofeeshopamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN) Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life, you may not enjoy this coeeshop. If, however, youd like to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history d- cor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products on oer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel. (+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00. MAGIC This charming North African-style coeeshop boasts computers with internet access and a pool table, along with other games, as well as large comfortable seating ar- eas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may nd that this place is more appropriate when not alone. QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open 10:00 - 01:00. NOON Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make this an ideal coeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals, chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22, tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22. Just look for coeeshop signs to begin your journey IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of todays smartphones. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart lters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phones web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. Summer 2014 59 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Coffeeshops PARADOX Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coeeshops, but these days only a quarter of these remain, including Para- dox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served as a ha- ven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists never set foot in this quiet place, even though its more than worth a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by promising young grati artists and the best works will make you feel like youre hallucinating even when youre not stoned.QD- 7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 39, www. paradoxcofeeshop.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JNX RESIN Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green inte- rior, this coeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite during a visit to Amsterdam. Reecting the theme of the famous Red Light District, a keen eye may be able to dis- cern sex swings, but dont worry. Other seating is available in the form of sofa benches lining the wall. There are TV screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic edge drones on in the background. The sta here arent particularly friendly, but then again thats fairly typical of Amsterdam coeeshops where the stoned customer is rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31) 204 22 98 38. ROKERIJ IV The latest addition to the Rokerij chain, this coeeshop can be found in the scenic Jordaan district. Featuring coloured candles, wooden tables, cushion seating and a pleasant interior adorned with both Tibetan and Moroccan details, this coeeshop could be the ideal place to play a game or two while making use of some of the bongs provided. The herbal menu here is exceptional and includes cannabis cup varieties and a good selection of drinks like fresh OJ.QE-7, Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 38, www.rokerij.org. RUSLAND Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coeeshop norm, although to no extreme extent. The extensive choice of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to com- plement the other pungent herbs you can purchase here. A successful but original mix of Russian and Moroccan dcor, a common cushioned seating area complete with a view onto the street and a friendly cat make this place an excellent environment in which to relax alone or with friends.QB-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68. SIBERIE Visit this coeeshop on a Friday or Saturday and youll be able to enjoy some live DJing with your smoke in a cosy at- mosphere. Candles, art work, owers on the tables as well as good music all contribute to the success of this con- verted garage. Some food is available, games are provided and the large wooden tables give all the space necessary to enjoy your time here without inconveniencing other patrons. Unlike its Russian namesake, its located in the ur- ban centre of the city.QA-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31) 206 23 59 09, www.cofeeshopsiberie.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW SMART & HEAD SHOPS AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can ask the knowledgeable sta here everything there is to know about cultivating this amazing plant. The shop also sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts made from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to your home if you live in the EU.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel. (+31) 207 37 00 60, www.amsterdamseedcenter.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of 3 seeds 20 - 30. JA SENSI SEEDS Sensi Seeds has been developing cannabis seeds for over 25 years and thanks to shops like this, growing your own cannabis plant has never been easier. First-time growers can nd several stable feminised seeds that grow in nearly any climate, while experienced horticulturist can choose special sativas and indicas. The sta can help you choose the most suitable seeds, advise you on how to grow the plant and inform you about any possible legal issues. Seeds can also be bought online, but shipment is prohib- ited to most countries outside the EU (the only exceptions being Switzerland, Serbia and Guyana).QB-2, Oude Doel- enstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 26 29 88, www.sensiseeds. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at A-1, Nieuwendijk 26. B u y O r i g i n a l , G e t t h e B e s t 60 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Lifestyle Directory Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail or nd a doctor to bandage a sprained ankle? Looking for a place to entertain your children or maybe a pharmacy to keep your hangover in check? Youll nd the answers here. BICYCLE REPAIR HET ZWARTE FIETSENPLAN Looking for replacement parts for your bike? Crashed into a car and need repairs? These guys will sort you out.QF-8, Lijnbaansgracht 282 - 283, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A BOWLING LOVERS POWERZONE Take advantage of six modern bowling lanes or challenge your friends to a game of laser tag.QG-4, De Ruyterkade 153, tel. (+31) 207 60 76 00, www.loverspowerzone.nl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Bowling: 22.50 - 27.50/hour, Laser tag: 9 - 16. TJG CURRENCY EXCHANGE GWK TRAVELEX If you plan on exchanging money, banks oer the best exchange rates and a smaller commission, but the GWK is the most convenient if youre heading to the train station. .QF-3, Stationsplein (Central Station), tel. (+31) 206 27 27 31, www.travelex.com/nl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at A-2, Dam 23 - 25; A-2, Damrak 86; A-1, Damrak 1 - 5; Kalverstraat 150; F-8, Leidseplein 31A; and F-7, Leidsestraat 103; Anton de Komplein 4 - 10. DENTISTS TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT QF-6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@ tadh.nl, www.tadh.nl. Open Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. DOCTORS EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE The English-speaking doctors here oer medical atten- tion, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they accept EU health cards, too!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112, tel. (+31) 204 27 50 11, www.expatmc.net. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Saturdays and Sundays by appointment only. HAIRDRESSERS & BARBERS HEAD 2 HEAD This is a barber shop for real men where electric shavers are used more often than scissors. A haircut will set you back about 15.QO-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 46-D, tel. (+31) 206 92 73 78. KINKI KAPPERS Youll feel like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon. QD-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31) 206 25 60 00, info@ kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS KALVER KLEDINGREPARATIE & STOMERIJ Dry cleaning services as well as clothing repair.QA-3, Voetboogstraat 29-a, tel. (+31) 206 38 78 00. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. LAUNDRY & THINGS Self-serve washing machines starting at as low as 3 per load.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31) 614 03 28 03. Open 08:00 - 22:00. WASH & COFFEE Just like the name says.QG-9/10, Quellijnstraat 90, tel. (+31) 204 70 36 79, www.wash-cofee.nl. Open 07:30 - 18:30. Closed Tue. WASSALON LAUNDRY Wash it yourself or drop it o and itll be ready in a few hours.QG-9, Frans Halssatraat 83, tel. (+31) 643 58 32 09. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MASSAGE CHINA BEAUTY MASSAGE CENTER A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot massage cost 35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage, which in- cludes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs 20. QA-2, Paleisstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www. chinesemassageamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. DOCTOR FEEL GOOD Although the owner of this fancy joint proudly presents her years of experience on her website where she worked with bands and celebrities all over the world, normal hu- man beings are also welcome at this modern place. Bring plenty of cash though.QScheldestraat 16, tel. (+31) 206 20 15 70, www.doctorfeelgood.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Also at K-5, Czaar Peterstraat 108. JALw Den Waag: one of the citys remaining medieval gates Summer 2014 61 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Lifestyle Directory PHARMACIES DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAAT The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around the corner.QF-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204 22 02 10, apotheekleidsestraat@ezorg.nl, www.da- apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open 09:00 - 21:50. Closed Sat, Sun. WITTOP KONING KRING-APOTHEEK A small pharmacy on Overtoom.QS-4, Overtoom 81, tel. (+31) 206 16 36 10, www.wittopkoning.com. Open 08:30 - 17:30, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A SPAS & BEAUTY SAUNA DECO The beautiful interior of this mixed sex Art Deco sauna was rescued from demolition and lovingly restored. Facilities in- clude sauna, Turkish steam bath, chill out areas, beauty treat- ments, massage, solarium, tness centre, caf and an outside relaxation area.QE-5, Herengracht 115, tel. (+31) 206 23 82 15, www.saunadeco.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. Admission: 21. AKw SPA AMSTERDAM ZUIVER This exclusive spa located in the Amsterdam Forest pro- vides a wide variety of pools, hot tubs, saunas, hamams and lounge areas both inside the complex and outside as well. Naturally, a range of massages, beauty treatments and wellness procedures are also on oer.QN-5, Koenen- kade 8 (Amsterdamse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 10, info@ spazuiver.nl, www.spazuiver.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. ADw SPORTS FUN FOREST CLIMBING PARK This climbing park has eight dierent courses of varying heights and levels of diculty located in trees. The park is almost always open except during strong winds, thun- derstorms or heavy rain.QBosbaanweg 3, Amstelveen, tel. (+31) 206 42 96 83, amsterdam@funforest.nl, www. funforest.nl. Open April - October 10:00 - 19:00. Admis- sion: 12.50 - 21.50. SWIMMING POOLS HET MARNIX Despites its small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming pools, a spa, a health club and a restaurant.QD-5, Mar- nixplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 24 60 00, www.hetmarnix.nl. ABK SLOTERPARKBAD During certain hours of the day this swimming pool opens it doors to the public for recreational purposes.QM-2, President Allendelaan 3, tel. (+31) 205 06 35 06, fax (+31) 205 06 35 07, www.sloterparkbad.nl. SPORTPLAZA MERCATOR A huge swimming pool, tness centre and gym.QR-3, Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel. (+31) 206 18 89 11, www. sportfondsen.nl. Open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Fronemanstraat 3, tel. (+31) 206 65 08 11. A TATTOOS & PIERCING DERMADONNA CUSTOM TATTOOS Get a tattoo from real experts.QB-2, Kloveniersburg- wal 34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14/(+31) 611 28 47 39, www. dermadonna.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. HANKY PANKY TATTOOING Tattoos in the Red Light district.QB-2, Oudezijds- voorburgwal 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www. hankypankytattoo.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Statue of Rembrandt on the square that bears his name LOOOKING UP TO THE DUTCH Spend some time in the Netherlands and youll start looking up to the Dutch. Is it their tolerant attitudes? Their excellent command of the English language? Or perhaps their land reclamation skills? Simply put, most people look up to the Dutch because theyre in- credibly tall. With an average male height of just over 187cm (61), the Dutch are the tallest people on the planet. When one considers that this is merely the av- erage height and that many local men are much taller than 187cm, one begins to wonder if Goliath isnt a Dutch word. But anyone whos seen a typical 17th- century Amsterdam building and its tiny dollhouse doors will realise that this is a more recent trend. In fact, most experts believe that great health care, a relatively even wealth distribution among citizens and a national obsession with dairy products have transformed the Dutch from vertically challenged me- dieval men into the giants you see now. The govern- ment has even changed its building codes to accom- modate its growing population, but this might be for naught as a recent study seems to suggest that Dutch height increases have plateaued. For now, youll just have to be prudent and give them a wide berth or perhaps get closer to them in the summer and use them for shade. 62 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam for Kids Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a caution- ary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the lit- tle ones. Here are some of the best. KIDS STUFF BALLORIG This enormous space is lled with long rows of tables like a German beer hall and at each table youll nd a few young mothers and here and there a granny or two. Ballorig is actually a huge childrens playground at the edge of the Gaasterplas in the Zuidoost district.QW-2, Valburgdreef 1001, tel. (+31) 204 00 01 01, www.ballorig.nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults free, children 7. PTULNBKW BOUNZ What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in train- ing has now been transformed into a large trampoline centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back ipping and opping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are guaranteed!QM-2, Willinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44 81, info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Ad- mission: 5.50/hour. TLN BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens paradise. The management decided that their adult male presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located on a penin- sula in Rembrandt Park, oers arts and crafts classes and other activities for children.QN-3, Rembrandtpark, tel. (+31) 206 18 36 04, imuls@impuls.nl, www.impuls.nl. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. TIBC DE ONTDEKHOEK Children from the ages of 4 to 14 can have a blast at the inventors workshop, experimenting, testing and discover- ing new things. More than 30 experiments are are at you disposal such as miniature bricklaying, making chips and making and playing street organ music.QN-2, Burge- meester Rellstraat 145, tel. (+31) 204 11 68 46, www. ontdekhoek.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 8, children 10. T DE PIJP PETTING ZOO (KINDERBOERDERIJ DE PIJP) This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 dierent species of animals from goldsh and rodents to turtles and ducks. The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel. (+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo. nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM This is the largest go-kart centre in the Netherlands with two indoor race tracks, a so-called wall-of-death, bowling, miniature golf, a game zone and a indoor playground.QH- erwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206 11 11 20, www.raceplanet.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Admission: 15.75 for a 12-minute race. TAL SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Look for the big green building jutting out into the water to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors can learn about science without the boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, gener- ate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can also see how fuel engines work or touch a real, 4.65 billion- year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stu. You can also bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the city. A good museum shop is also available where you can buy science experiments and other fun souvenirs for kids.QH- 4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO. nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission: 15, children under four free. AK TUNFUN SPEELPARK In what looks like a disused underground metro station near the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens paradise. If you cant nd it just follow the steady stream of families, childrens parties and school excursions into the depth of this enormous playground that includes slides, climbing labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines and other atrractions. The screams of the children can be a bit overwhelming at times but internet access and cans of beer at the caf help keep the cacaphony of pre- pubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their kids. QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www. tunfun.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids 7.50, adults free. KW Science Center NEMO is fun for all ages DigiDaan Summer 2014 63 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Dutch Highlights & Day Trips If youre looking for a short day trip from Amsterdam or per- haps a journey farther aeld, we have a few suggestions. Alkmaar Kaasmarkt (Cheese Market) Yes, it's true. Hoorn, Gouda, Woerden and Edam have them, too, but if you'd like to see Holland's most renowned cheese market, you have to go to Alkmaar. Every Friday huge wheels of cheese are carried around and weighed on the old town market, which is quite the sight. The mar- ket is held every Friday 10:00 - 12:30 from April to the Be- ginning of September. Trains depart from Amsterdam for Alkmaar four times every hour. Delft Yes, there's also an Oude Kerk (Old Church), but the Nieuwe Kerk is where all the deceased members of the Dutch royal family are buried. Even legendary William of Orange rests here for all eternity. It's quite impressive and a must-see if you're in Delft as is the Royal Delft factory tour. See how Holland's most famous blue porcelain has been made for centuries (www.royaldelft.com). Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) Sick of the same museums around Museumplein in Am- sterdam? The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem displays an amazing collection of paintings by Dutch old masters and is the museum to visit if you appreciate Dutch Golden Age art. Haarlem is close to Amsterdam and trains run frequent- ly between the two cities. Keukenhof You can't really escape it. Flowers are a part of Dutch cul- ture. Tulips, which were actually originally imported (smug- gled) from Turkey, are a national symbol of Holland and the Keukenhof is the place to see them 'in the wild' once the season starts in early spring. The huge gardens are only open to the public for two months each year so visit www. keukenhof.nl for more information. You can usually arrange a trip at your hotel reception. Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden) Come here for an incredible museum full of artefacts from the masters of the Golden Age. The old centre of Leiden is also beautiful and worth a look. The city is about a 40-min- ute train ride from Amsterdam. Rotterdam It's a hate-hate relationship between Amsterdam and 'the other Dam'. There are plenty of reasons why these two cities are so competitive. Schiphol is one of the busiest airports in the world, while Rotterdam is home to the world's busiest harbour. Football champions Ajax have been sparring with Feyenoord for decades and while Amsterdam lives on its charming medieval buildings, Rotterdam was completely rebuilt after it was nearly levelled by bombs in WWII. If you're tired of touristy Amsterdam and crave the sight of a large city with a modern skyline, then Rotterdam is the only option in the Netherlands. Take the high speed Fyra train from Amsterdam to Rotterdam in only 41 minutes. Sint Janskerk (Maastricht) If you really want to travel as far from the city as possible without leaving the country then take a train all the way to the hilly south of the country where you can witness the pretty sights of Maastricht among its beer-loving residents. The reddish Gothic Sint Janskerk is the city's main highlight, but there are loads of other things to see like Roman forts (Fort Sint Pieter) and busy squares full of cafs. Utrecht If you can't get enough of the cute bunny drawings of Dick Bruna, the Mify (Nijntje) Museum in Utrecht is the place to go. If not, you'll almost certainly be annoyed by the small children and the ocks of Japanese tourists here. The city is also famous for its Roman beginnings, its incredibly tall church spire and its unique wharf cellars. Trains to Utrecht depart Amsterdam frequently. Volendam The place where all the great Dutch singers are born, Volen- dam is basically a town of shermen and boatloads of tour- ists wanting a taste of 'real' Dutch culture. You can dress up in traditional costumes here or wander about its beautiful streets. Take bus No.116 from the Central Station to Volen- dam. The trip takes about 30 minutes. Zaanse Schans (Zaandam) But where are all the windmills? If you've asked this ques- tion in Amsterdam, you're not the only one. In fact, Amster- dam doesn't have that many and you won't nd any in the centre of town. We recommend a trip to Zaanse Schans, where you'll have plenty of opportunities to spot one of Holland's most endearing symbols. You'll have to deal with crowds though as the well-preserved windmills and tra- ditional houses here attract almost a million visitors every year. Connexxion bus No.391 departs from the Amsterdam Central Station every hour during the day. The trip takes about 40 minutes. You can also take a train to Koog-Zaandi- jk station and then walk 15 minutes to Zaanse Schans. Haarlem is home to beautiful architecture as well as a great museum 64 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Zandvoort Relax on Zandvoorts legendary beach Sometimes theres nothing better than replacing the hus- tle and bustle of a large city with the peace and tranquility of the seaside. Zandvoort is not only the closest North Sea beach to Amsterdam, but its also one of Hollands most beloved summer resorts. The view of the North Sea will never disappoint and the fact that the beach at Zandvoort is one of the safest and cleanest in the country only adds to its popularity. But the beach isnt the only reason why people come here in droves.The town exudes a cosiness and a laid-back atmosphere that cant be beat, while the in- spiring landscapes of the dunes at the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park are just magical. Hollands most famous race track is also located in Zandvoort and its seaside cafs and restaurants provide an unforgettable dining experience. ARRIVING IN ZANDVOORT Most visitors reach Zandvoort either by train or by car. From Amsterdam Central Station trains depart every half hour toward the Zandvoort aan Zee Station. The journey takes about 30 minutes and after a short interruption at Haarlem Station, the train brings passengers through the landscape of dunes at Zuid-Kennemerland to the beach town on the North Sea. During the summer months, an extra service is provided to and from Haarlem every 30 minutes. A one- way ticket to Zandvoort costs 5 from Amsterdam or 2.10 from Haarlem. Travelling by car to Zandvoort is a bit more complicated. Follow the highway to Haarlem, navigate through the city and nd either the N201 or the N200. Both roads connect Haarlem with Zandvoort. ACCOMMODATION HOTEL ANNA Located right in the city centre of Zandvoort only a short walk from the beach, it would be dicult to nd a more central place to stay in Hollands most popular resort town. All of its 25 rooms are slightly dierent, yet each is decorated in a simple style and some even oer views of the citys fa- mous red brick water tower. Accommodation includes TV, phone and private bathrooms with showers.QHogeweg 5, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 46 74, www.hotelanna.info. 25 rooms (singles from 50, doubles from 80, triples from 110, quads from 125). JAL HOTEL ZEESPIEGEL If youre looking for stylish accommodation near the beach, then look no further than Hotel Zeespiegel. Owned and operated by the Van der Spiegel family, the hotel is one of the oldest in town, yet it has been completely reno- vated in a modern style in shades of white, grey and black. A TV, safe, private bathroom with a hairdryer and wi- all come standard and some rooms also have balconies. You can enjoy a meal out on the hotels terrace, but if youd like to do some exploring, the sta will be happy to rent you a bicycle so you can be on your way.QHogeweg 70, Zand- voort, tel. (+31) 235 71 22 02, www.hotelzeespiegel.nl. 15 rooms (singles from 60, doubles from 85, family rooms from 125). OJA6BKX hhh EATING & DRINKING BRUXELLES AAN ZEE If drinking exceptional beer is one of your goals in Zan- dvoort, you can end your search here. With almost 50 beers in bottles and another six on draught, well forgive the owners their lack of originality when they created their menu. All the usual main courses like schnitzels, steaks and prawns can be had here for reasonable prices, but we were particularly impressed by its varied chil- drens menu that oered much more than the usual frites. The gregarious sta are quick to engage you in conversa- tion and Bruxelles serves Hollands most beloved frozen popsicles, Raket, which are an absolute must on a hot day.QStrandafgang Fauvage 14, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 52 03, www.bruxellesaanzee.nl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. TJAGBKX CAF KOPER Zandvoort is much more than just a beach and if youre not convinced then sit down at Caf Kopers wonderful terrace. This cosy, traditional caf is a microcosm of the town with its relaxed and welcoming ambience, its deli- cious homemade meals and laid back views of patrons chatting over a cup of coee without a care in the world. If people watching isnt your thing you can also enjoy the vista of the tiny square and its old church.QKerkplein 6, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 35 46, www.cafekoper.nl. Open 09:00 - 02:00. i6GBKX RISTORANTE ANDREA This friendly restaurant serves fresh Italian food with a smile. Ristorante Andrea puts a lot of eort into its tasty dishes, but it could have done a bit more with its inte- rior, which is ordinary and thats putting it mildly. On the other hand, the warm atmosphere and the Italian avours will quickly make you forget about any expectations you might have about its dcor. On a good day you can also enjoy your coee or pasta on the sunny terrace and watch passers-by on Zandvoorts main pedestrian street.QKerk- plein 9, Zandvoort, tel. (+31) 235 71 46 70. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. (12 - 15). TGBKXS Summer 2014 65 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zandvoort CALENDAR OF EVENTS July 4 - 6 Masters of Formula 3: The best Formula 3 drivers will compete at the race track 20 Zandvoort (A)live. A free beach festival at Bruxelles and Mangos Beach Bar 26 Amsterdam Festival with several activi- ties in Zandvoort aan Zee August 2 - 8 EC Sand Sculpture Festival. The sand sculptures on the boulevard and streets of Zandvoort remain standing until November 3 Place du Tertre. See how statues, paint- ings and other art works are made at this art market. The art is also for sale 9 & 10 Annual Evening and Summer Market. Over 300 stalls and lots of fairground attractions and live music in the centre 29 - 31 Historic Grand Prix. A race with historic race cars and a parade on August 30 September 11 - 14 The KLM Open: a part of the European Tour, the highest pro golf circuit in Eu- rope. The 95th edition on Dutch soil For more info visit www.vvvzandvoort.com PLACES OF INTEREST ZANDVOORT BEACH The sandy beach at Zandvoort is one of the cleanest in Holland. This has been recognised by the international Blue Flag association, which awards its coveted ag to beaches that meet a high standard of safety and cleanli- ness. The 9km beach runs parallel to the village and is on average 100m wide. Over 30 beach pavilions ensure that youre never far away from food and drinks. Water sports enthusiasts like kiteboarders usually operate from the southern section of the beach. Access to the beach is free. QBoulevard de Favauge, Boulevard Paulus Loot and Boulevard Barnaart, Zandvoort. ZANDVOORT RACE TRACK TOUR Zandvoort is home to Hollands most important race track. It opened in 1948 and from its inception until 1985, the Dutch Grand Prix of Formula One was held here. Big names like Jim Clark, Alain Prost and Niki Lauda have all raced in Zandvoort. Current events include the A1 Grand Prix and the Masters of Formula Three. For an up-to-date calendar of events check out its website where you can also book tick- ets. This June and July you can also take a tour of the race track every Wednesday at 14:00 and learn about its history while viewing its most interesting features rsthand. Tickets cost 9.50 and must be bought in advance at VVV Zand- voort. The tour begins with coee or tea at BMW Driving Ex- perience Slotemakers.QBurgemeester van Alphenstraat 108, Zandvoort, www.vvvzandvoort.com. TUL 66 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Netherlands Map Summer 2014 67 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket &Samhoud Places 16 Abraxas 56 Albert Cuyp Market 51 Allard Pierson Museum Alto Jazz Caf 22 Amnesia 56 Amstel Botel 36 Amsterdam Canal Cruises 24 msterdam Marina 45 Amsterdam Museum Amsterdam North Museum 42 Amsterdam Passenger Terminal 7 Amsterdam Seed Center 59 Amsterdamse Poort 53 Anne Frank House 25 Antiquarian Hoogkamp 30 Argentino Luna 15 Aronson Antiquairs 30 Artis Royal Zoo 28 Assaggi 14 A-Train Hotel 11 Avis 7 Backstage Hotel Amsterdam 11 Badhuis Javaplein 46 Bagels & Beans 12, 52 Ballorig 62 Bar Italia 14 Barkode 21 Barneys 57 Bastion Deluxe Hotel Amsterdam / Centrum - Noord 36 Bazar 50 B&B Het Oude Dijkhuis 38 B&B Het Zunderdorpskwartier 38 Beekhoven Bikes 44 Beer Temple 19 Best Western Blue Square Hotel 34 Beurs van Berlage 17 Biblos 18 Bird 16 Bite Me 40 Black Bikes 6 Blom&Blom 44 Blue Boat Company 24 Boaty 6 Bobs Youth Hostel 11 Boom Chicago 22 Bounz 62 Bourbon Street 23 Bouwspeelplaats t Landje 62 Brandstof 18 Brewers Canal 26 British General Stores 49 Brood NDSM 38 Brooklyn Hotel 38 Brouwerij De 7 Deugden 35 Brouwerij De Prael 27 Bruxelles aan Zee 64 Bulldog No. 90 57 Caf Chris 20 Caf DECK5 15 Caf de Klos 12 Caf de Koe 18 Caf de Zwart 17 Caf Fonteyn 17 Caf George 17 Caf Karpershoek 20 Caf Kobalt 17 Cafe Koehuis Blokker 41 Caf Koper 64 Caf Kuijper 46 Caf La Rosa 41 Cafe Lellebel 54 Caf Papeneiland 20 Caf Pieper 20 Caf Restaurant Kerkzicht 34 Caf Rouge 54 Caf Scheltema 17 Caf Slijterij Oosterling 20 Caf Sonneveld 17 Caf Sound Garden 18 Caf Thijssen 23 Cafe Van Belle 41 Caf Wiener 19 Camping Vliegenbos 38 Casa Rosso 18 Chao Phraya 16 Chefs Table 39 China Beauty Massage Center 60 Club Church 54 Club Escape 21 Cocos Keuken 34 Concerto 30 Conscious Hotel Museum Square 50 DA Apotheek Leidsestraat 61 De Bierfabriek 19 De Biertuin 46 De Druif 20 De IJ-Keuken 40 De Kaaskamer van Amsterdam 30 De Koningshut 23 De Ontdekhoek 62 De Pannekoekenboot 41 De Pijp Petting Zoo 62 De Pilsener Club 20 De Ponteneur 47 Dermadonna Custom Tattoos 61 Design Overtoom 49 Do Brasil 12 Doctor Feel Good 60 Dolphins 57 Dosa 48 Durgerdam 43 Eastern Islands 26 EasyHotel Amsterdam Ferdinand Bolstraat 50 Easy Times 57 Eetcafe 100% ZO 52 Eichholtz 30 Electric Taxi Company Taxi-E 7 Elmas 41 El Mousshine Mosque 42 Expat Medical Centre 60 EYE Bar-Restaurant 40 EYE Film Institute 43 Fast Flying Ferry 27 FEBO 15, 39 Fenan Klein Afrika 48 Fjllrven Brand Center 30 Fletcher Hotel Amsterdam 52 Flower Market 26 Fun Forest Climbing Park 61 Funny People 58 Gay Tourist Information Centre 54 Golden Bend 27 Greenwoods English Tearoom 13 Grill Steakhouse Mama 13 Glloglu 16 GWK Travelex 60 Haesje Claes 13 Hanky Panky Tattooing 61 Head 2 Head 60 Heineken Experience 51 Hermitage Amsterdam 28 Het Grachtenhuis 25 Het Kraanspoor 42 Het Marnix 61 Het Schip Museum 49 Het Zwarte Fietsenplan 60 Hiding in Plain Sight 22 Holland Casino 21 Holland Rent a Bike 6 Hortus Botanical Gardens 28 Hostelle 52 Hotel Anna 64 Hotel Citadel 11 Hotel Roemer 48 Hotel Seven One Seven 10 Hotel Sint Nicolaas 11 Hotel The Exchange 10 Hotel Zeespiegel 64 Houseboat Museum 25 House of Bols Cocktail and Genever Experience 51 Ichi-e 53 IJscuypje 13 In de Olofspoort 22 In de Wildeman 19 Jewish Historical Museum 29 JHM Childrens Museum 29 Kalver Kledingreparatie & Stomerij 60 Kamasutra 14 Kantjil & de Tijger 14 Karos Citytours 27 Kastino Molenwijk 44 Keramiek Atelier Marjoke de Heer 44 Kerk Zunderdorp 42 King Doner 52 Kinki Kappers 60 Koehuis De Klaproos 38 Koe in Oost 47 La Brasa 15 Lake Sloterplas 35 Landmarkt Amsterdam 44 Langerlust 53 La Perla 15 La Place 12 La Tertulia 58 Laundry & Things 60 La Vie En Rose B&B and Apartments 11 Lion of Judah 58 Lloyd Hotel 46 Loetje aan het IJ 41 Los Pilones 14 Louis Bar 19 Lovers Powerzone 60 Magic 58 Manneken Pis 13 Marc Bike Shop 53 Maritime Quarter 43 Media Markt 53 Metropolitan Deli 13 Mikes Bike Tours 27 Molly Malones 22 Montmartre 54 Mt. Everest 40 Mulliners Wijnlokaal 23 Museum of Bags and Purses 25 Nachttheater Sugar Factory 21 Nam Kee 12 National Monument 27 Nauticadam Yacht Club 43 NDSM-werf 43 New King 12 NH Barbizon Palace 10 NH Galaxy Amsterdam 36 NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky 10 Noon 58 Noorderkerk 24 Noordermarkt 30 Noorderpark 43 NYX 21 Oeverloos Ferry 35 Old Sailor Pub 23 Ons Verlangen 38 Pacic Parc 49 Paradox 59 Pietje Frietje 39 Pompstation 47 Portuguese Synagogue 29 Prik 55 Proeokaal de Prael 19 Puspita 40 Race Planet Amsterdam 62 Reality 55 Rembrandt Park 35 Rembrandt Statue 27 Rent a Dutch bike 6 Resin 59 Retro In- & Outstyles 49 Ristorante Andrea 64 Rokerij IV 59 Royal Palace Amsterdam 26 Rusland 59 Sauna Deco 61 Schellingwouderkerk 42 Science Center NEMO 28, 62 Second Life Music 30 Sensi Seeds 59 Siberie 59 Sixt Rent a car 7 SkyLounge 22 Skyy Bar 34 Sloep Delen 6 Sloten Windmill 35 Sloterparkbad 61 Sloter Park Swimming Pool 35 Snow Lion 16 Soup Kitchen 13 Spa Amsterdam Zuiver 61 Sportplaza Mercator 61 Starbucks 53 Stayokay Amsterdam Zeeburg 46 Stedelijk Museum 51 Stork 41 Studio 80 21 Taboo 55 Tandartsen aan de Herengracht 60 TCA Taxi 7 Teasers 23 The American Book Center 30 The Bananen Bar & Club 18 The Button 43 The Dylan Amsterdam 11 The Faralda NDSM Crane Hotel Amsterdam 36 The Green Dragon 42 The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum 26 The Little Darling 27 The Old Church 24 The Oyster Club 50 The Pancake Bakery 14 The Parrot: Church of Sts. Peter and Paul 24 The Pool Hole 19 The Queens Head 55 The Rembrandt House Museum 29 THT 40 t Lieverdje 13 t Nieuwe Diep Distillery 47 Tolhuistuin 43 Trommelwoningen 42 TunFun Speelpark 62 Van Gogh Museum 51 Van Loon Museum 26 V-Bar 50 Venus Temple Sex Museum 24 Veronicaschip 40 Vishandel Smit 49 Vivelavie 55 Wash & Coee 60 Wassalon Laundry 60 Waterstones 30 Watertaxi 7 WestCord Fashion Hotel Amsterdam 34 Westerkerk 24 Westerpark 49 WesterUnie 49 Whiskycaf L&B 23 Wilde Zwijnen 47 Windmill De Bloem 49 Winston Kingdom 21 Wittop Koning Kring- apotheek 61 Wooden Houses 42 World of Ajax Tours 53 Wynand Fockink 22 Yamazato 50 Yellow Bike 6 Yokiyo 14 Zandvoort Beach 65 Zandvoort Race Track 65 Venue Index Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Amsterdam (Next to the Sensi Seed Bank) Open all week from 10:00 until 23:00 www.hashmuseum.com FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA