Retailer Perceptions on Apparel Sizing Issues and customer satisfaction
Ravi Balasubramanian, Janet Webster, Massey University, New Zealand
Abstract The relevance of size and fit of apparel has not been investigated from a retail marketing perspective. An exploratory qualitative study was undertaken to gain an insight into its relevance. The issues explored were: 1) Do retailers perceive size and fit of apparel relevant to their function in meeting the customer requirements? 2) Does knowledge of fit related issues contribute to their success as a salesperson? The main finding was that fit related issues played a key role in their functioning and thus warrants further validation through a quantitative study. Keywords: Retailer Perceptions, Apparel Sizing, Qualitative Investigations, Customer Satisfaction.
Introduction
Consumer satisfaction is a desirable outcome for apparel manufacturers and retailers since satisfied customers can lead to increased store patronage, repeat purchase and brand loyalty (Otieno, 2000a). However, dissatisfaction of men and women with fit of available sizes in clothes has been identified in numerous countries, including New Zealand and one of the reasons for this could be the changing dimensions of the body over time, not accommodated by commensurate changes in apparel sizes (Winks, 1997; Goldsberry, Shim and Reich, 1996; Ashdown, 1998). This could point to the need for sizing surveys of the population that help to create appropriate sizing systems for manufacturers, although other reasons such as inconsistencies in size labels or the information provided upon them could be contributing factors (Chun-Yoon and J asper, 1995). Approaches adopted to reduce consumer dissatisfaction include adaptation of technology for mass customisation of clothes or collection of dimensions for more up-to-date sizing standards. For sizing standards, several countries have implemented sizing surveys, and specific technology such as 3D body scanning has been employed to create appropriate sizing systems for manufacturers. SizeUK, size USA and more recently the SCALE project in Australia provide examples of this approach to the problem of creating apparel that fits the general population (http://www.sizeUSA.com; http://www.shapeanalysis.com/sizeUK%20statistics.htm; Australasian Textiles and Fashion, 2005). New Zealand does not currently have national sizing standards for men's and women's clothing; these were withdrawn in October 1998, and not replaced. The technology option or updating the sizing systems may be unviable options in the short term due to relative size of the market in New Zealand. This raises the question as to how sizing issues are being resolved.
The impact of the lack of size standards may be examined from the perspective of each of the participants in the chain viz. the apparel manufacturer, retailer and the consumer. The manufacturers decisions on sizing are influenced by the intended look and target market. Some manufacturers have also considered the psychological aspects of the consumer, through vanity sizing which has been researched ( for example: Lenda J o, 2002) and also reported in the press ( for example: Martin, 2006).Thus decisions by various manufacturers to change size dimensions has resulted in significant variations for the same size label. From the 1 consumers perspective the dissatisfaction regarding size and fit of clothes has been researched, as indicated above. Despite the attempt of some researchers highlighting the need for retailers to help consumers in selection of apparel through advise on fit during the selection process (Eckman, Damhorst and Kadolph ,1990) and through stocking of appropriate sizes (Otieno, 2000 ), very little research exists on the retailers perspective regarding size and fit and processes adopted to meet the consumers requirements. Research in this area may contribute to a better understanding of size and fit related issues in apparel industry.
Research Question:
How does the variation in dimensions of apparel clothing sizes impact retailers ability to meet consumers need for clothing that fit?
This research examines retailers perspectives with a focus on the extent to which knowledge of fit and fit issues impact their ability to provide customer satisfaction.
Literature review
Consumer perceptions of apparel fit- implications for apparel retailing
The role apparel fit plays in the customers satisfaction with apparel purchase seems to have differing mechanisms for evaluation depending on end use of purchase. In shopping for childrens clothes, Norum (1995) found that fit was significantly related to consumer satisfaction and with perceptions regarding product quality. This facet was again highlighted in another study where fit and size was cited as the aspects that parents shopping for children complained about the most (Otieno, 2000b). Fit and size issues cited were mismatch in dimensions across chest, arm, shoulder, waist and incorrect labelling. However, for their own use Labat and Delong (1990) found apparel fit satisfaction related to body cathexis( consumers evaluation of self and body), with fit satisfaction being lower for hip and waist as compared to other body sites. This evaluation of fit would vary according to the shopper profile and could provide some opportunity for the retailer to play a role.
Customers are likely to select stores for apparel purchase based on their perception or experience regarding the range, sizes and fit of apparel offerings. Specialised niche stores and store image was found to be related to customer demographic variables such as race, income and marital status (Gagliano and Hathcote, 1994). Demographic characteristics have been found to influence fashion attitudes and store patronage.
Role of size and fit in Consumers apparel purchase decision making process.
Eckman, Damhorst and Kadolph (1990) proposed a three stage decision-making process for apparel consisting of interest phase, trial phase and decision phase. The interest phase in a garment was influenced by factors such as colour, styling and fabric, but the trial phase was influenced by fit, styling and appearance. When the purchase decision was positive, reasons provided were fit and appearance, but when an apparel item was rejected the reasons provided were, fit, styling and appearance. As observed by the authors, fit may be strongly related to aesthetic criteria in that fit affects perception of line, shape and appearance on the body. Thus fit and its influence upon appearance seem to play an important role in the decision making 2 process of the consumer. Eckman, Damhorst and Kadolph (1990) recommend that sales personnel may require training to help them positively reinforce and service clients on these criteria and to provide influential product information at the appropriate stages of the purchase decision making process. However, this facet remains unexplored from the retailers perspective.
Role of size and fit skills in apparel retailing
The relevance of various selling skills for apparel retailers was investigated by Garner and Buckley (1988) and they found that skills relating to fashion merchandising knowledge, including salesmanship, consumer behaviour and communication were rated above textiles and product knowledge. However, knowledge of ready to wear sizing and knowledge of garment fitting and alteration were also perceived as important. Fair, Hamilton and Norum (1990) suggest that while there has been a shift away from requirements for specific product knowledge, the ability to communicate product knowledge is seen as important.
The relevance of skills in fit assessment needs to be examined in the context of selling skills identified in personal selling literature where research has been done on factors contributing to selling effectiveness. Selling skills has been viewed as comprising of three distinct components: Interpersonal skills such as knowing how to cope with and resolve conflicts; salesmanship skills such as how to make a presentation and close a sale; and technical skills such as knowledge of product features, benefits and procedures required by the company (Ford et al., 1987; cited in Rentz et al., 2002). Rentz et al. (2002) found that self-ranking on sales and quota performance were correlated with high levels of score on the three skill components. Highest factor loadings were reported for knowledge of product line under technical knowledge, ability to present the message and close the sale under salesmanship skills and awareness and understanding of the nonverbal communication of others under interpersonal skills. Extending this model to the apparel context, it could be postulated that knowledge of fit assessment and product line could be one of the key components of technical and salesmanship skills and could be expected to play a key role on the perceived performance by the retail sales person.
Thus there appears to be an information gap on the relevance and contribution of size and fit assessment skills towards a sales persons effectiveness.
Based on the literature review cited above, the following questions were formulated for further investigation: 1) what are the actions of retailers in providing a size range to satisfy customer needs for clothing? 2) Do consumers ask retail sales person for advice on fit and do they follow the advice given? 3) Are size and fit assessment skills important for retail sales persons sales performance?
Methodology
A series of in-depth interviews were undertaken with six medium to small retailers of womens apparel in the Wellington region. Large national chains catering to the mass market did not accede to requests for an interview. The owner/ manager of each store was interviewed as they were actively involved in the selling process and played a key role in setting norms for other employees. An outline of questions was used to initiate discussions into the areas to be explored (Malhotra, Hall, Shaw 3 and Oppenheim, 2002). The interviews were transcribed and key themes identified. The findings from each interview were used to explore areas of agreement and variation in subsequent interviews.
Findings
Intended positioning of store and range stocked
Retail outlets interviewed included one small high-fashion boutique catering for wealthy career women aged 40+(usually single), one designer fashion store targeting 30 to 60 year old business women with young children offering both fashion and classic styles, one store targeting fashion conscious professional women 25+stocking fashionable and classic styles, and three specialist apparel stores forming part of nationwide retail chains. Two of these stores (specialist apparel) stocked fashionable and classic designs, while the other stocked distinctive smart casual and classic apparel. All stores sold garments with traditional numeric size designations 6, 8,10,12,14 etc and five stores also sold garments, usually knitwear, with the size designation XS, S, M, L, XL etc. Apparel range stocked, including sizes and styles varied with the intended look and perceived customer demographics. A trend to extend size ranges by stocking both larger and smaller garments was identified by 4/6 retailers. Some retailers were upsizing (dropping a size) to accommodate perceived increases in the sizes of New Zealand women and for vanity reasons. Stocking generously sized garments was seen as a selling point for the up-market stores.
Retailers supported the manufacturers claims for a need to change their sizing systems due to perceived changes in ethnic composition of the NZ population and lifestyle changes towards larger sizing, particularly in the hips and upper body, including arm girth. All retailers stated that garment sizes were not standard and varied with the label, but welcomed the variety in labels and size dimensions as it permits accommodation of different sizes and style preferences in the population.
Sizing and fit issues in meeting customer need
Most retailers said that the customer had to try on the garment in the store, since fashion and style affect fit. Most retailers placed strong reliance on stocking a mix of sizes and labels to cater to a wide range of customer needs. This gives an opportunity to assist customers to find the right size and look, thus enhancing the prospect of a sale. Size variation was therefore perceived not as an issue but as an opportunity for the retail salesperson to help the customer.
To facilitate the short-listing process the retailers recommend possible sizes to try on. The recommendations do take into consideration the psychological needs which they attempt to discern through a process of interaction covering the occasion for which the purchase is being made, stated preferences and also observing the dress worn for clues on the type of fit that may be acceptable.
Do the customers expect advice regarding fit from the retailer and do they act on it? Most retailers believed that most customers expected advice regarding fit, and that they mostly acted on the advice. However, responses did vary, from the view If you dont want it (advice) then our store is not a good place to shop to the retailer who greeted and tried to 4 provide the customer time to browse and ask for assistance. Some indicated that they did not offer advice if their perception was that the customer did not want it. This perception also varied by the store type and target market. The designer store indicated that customers always expected advice on fit which was provided whereas the other stores indicated a larger variation in perceived customer expectations. Regular customers were likely to expect advice on fit and accept the advice.
Sales persons sizing and fit assessment skills
Providing advice on fit to customers were seen to be important for customer satisfaction and building repeat business. Though the provision of advice is considered an important skill, this is expected to be gained on the job by the sales person. Formal training tended not to be given, but information on intended look of the range was sometimes supplied. When recruiting new sales persons, paradoxically three stores expected them to already have some experience and skills in assessing fit, but the other three stores cited people skills and a passion for fashion as more important than fit experience. Overall, personality and people skills were more highly rated than fit expertise and specific product knowledge.
Implications
The main finding that appears to emerge is that variation in sizes for apparel and consequent fit related problems for the customer is seen as an opportunity for the retailer to provide a service to the customer and hence is not seen as a problem. Despite the identification of this unique role of the retailer, systematic development of the required skills of fit assessment is not undertaken by the employer but is largely left to the individual. Traditional thinking on sales people profile and skills are seen to be dominant. The retailer perception is that customer purchase behaviour seems to vary according to the target market and type of item purchased. It appears that size and fit assessment in a retail context represents a core issue in apparel marketing that deserves further investigation.
Future research
The central role of size and fit assessment in the apparel retailing context needs to be established .This would necessitate the validation of these findings through a quantitative study. Since the third party to be affected by apparel size designations are the consumers, additional research on how consumers perceive sizing issues and its impact on purchase decision making also needs to be investigated. 5
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