several thousand years. The four most commonly used natural fibers during this time have been wool, flax, cotton and silk. Fiber Fibers are hair-like substances which are usually thousand times (at least 100 times) longer than they are thick e.g. cotton, wool, polyester, nylon etc. To be classified as useful textile fiber, a fiber must be available in large quantity and be reasonably cheap. Fiber is the basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric. A Filament is a very long fiber. The length of filaments may range from a few hundred meteres (silk) to several kilometers in the case of manmade fibers. Staple fiber filament CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBER REQUIRED PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBER Fiber size: Length, Fineness/Thickness and cross sectional shapes Durability: Strength, abrasion resistance Extensibility and elasticity Color Affinity towards dyes Heat or Thermal retention FIBER SIZE The Textile Industry takes fibers and turns them into yarns and fabrics Fiber size plays a big part in determining the performance and hand of a fabric. A fiber is characterized by fineness (fiber diameter), flexibility and a high ratio of length to width. Large fibers give crispness, roughness, body and stiffness. Fine fibers give softness and pliability. Fabrics made with fine fibers drape more easily. FIBER SIZE (CONTD.) Length: length should not be less than 0.5" for staple fibers. Fibers that are too short are measured in inches or centimeters rather than yards or meters are called staple. < 15 mm insufficient length to make them yarn by twisting >150 mm requires special machine to make into yarn Fineness/Thickness: < 10 m too delicate for making yarn > 50 m too coarse or too thick yarn for comfort when used as apparel 10 Fibres typically ~ 20 m(0.02mm) across Cross-section very difficult to determine eg wool Fibre Size Thickness This is far from straightforward Fineness Units Usually specified in terms of Linear Density (LD) or fineness 11 Direct tex = weight (g) of 1km decitex = weight (g) of 10 km millitex = weight (g) of 1000 km kilotex = weight (kg) of 1 km Example: 10 cm fibre weighing 0.02 mg = 0.00002/0.0001 g per km = 0.2 tex = 2 dtex = 200 mtex 12 Stiffness & handle (ie drape etc) Torsional rigidity (ie how hard to twist) - square power dependence on fineness Fineness - Technological importance Light reflection - fine fibres soft sheen - coarse fibres harsh glitter Absorption of liquids & fiber cohesion - related to surface area Yarn uniformity - finer fibres give more even yarn Fibre fineness impacts on a wide range of other properties - here are just some examples Cross-sectional Shape of fiber this shape is important in luster, bulk, body, texture, and hand. Surface contour describes the outer surface of the fiber and may be smooth, serrated, or rough. It is also important in luster, hand, texture, and apparent soiling of the fabric. Cross section of different fiber Durability Durability Properties pertains to the lasting ability of a fiber for its end use. Abrasion resistance, tenacity and elongation are the strongest determinants of durability. Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to withstand the rubbing it gets in use. This property is especially important in luggage for example. Tenacity, or tensile strength, is the ability of a fiber to withstand a pulling force. Strength may be measured in two ways, by how much force it takes to rip the fabric (tearing strength) and by the force it takes to rupture a material (bursting strength). Heat or thermal retention Heat or thermal retention is the ability of a fabric to hold heat. A low level of thermal retention is favored in hot weather and a high level in cold weather. Density is a measure of fiber weight per unit volume. Lower density fibers can be made into thick fabrics that are more comfortable than high density fibers made into heavy, thick fabrics. OTHER PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBER Color: white or colorless is preferred Affinity towards dyes- not only must be capable of being colored but it must be amenable to dyeing in really fast shades. Generally synthetic fibers offer difficulty in dyeing. Extensibility and elasticity- must have a certain minimum amount of extensibility so as to withstand sudden strains placed on it. Elasticity helps fabrics to conform to specific contours of the body and to maintain their original shape in use and wear. COTTON Natural Fiber - cellulosic Characteristics: Comfortable Soft hand Absorbent Good color retention, prints well Machine-washable, dry-cleanable Good strength Drapes well Easy to handle and sew Major End Uses: Apparel - Wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts, dresses, childrenswear, activewear, separates, swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts, pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear. LINEN Natural Fiber - made from flax, a vegetable fiber Characteristics: Comfortable Good strength, twice as strong as cotton Hand-washable or dry-cleanable Crisp hand Tailors well Absorbent Dyes and prints well Lightweight to heavyweight No static or pilling problems Fair abrasion resistant Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, suits, separates, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts, childrenswear. SILK Natural Fiber - animal fiber created by the silk worm Characteristics: Soft or crisp hand Luxurious Drapes and tailors well Thinnest of all natural fibers Dyes and prints well Hand-washable or dry-cleanable Little problem with static, no pilling problem Only fair abrasion resistance Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, pants, pants, scarves, ties WOOL Natural Fiber - made from the fleece of sheep Characteristics: Comfortable Luxurious, soft hand Versatile Lightweight Good insulator Washable Wrinkle-resistant Absorbent Easy to dye Major End Uses: Apparel - sweaters, dresses, coats, suits, jackets, pants, skirts, childrenswear, loungewear, blouses, shirts, hosiery, scarves. ACRYLIC Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Light-weight, soft, warm with a wool-like hand Dyes to bright colors with excellent fastness Outstanding wickability Machine washable, quick drying Resilient; retains shape; resists shrinkage, & wrinkles Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like or blended appearance Excellent pleat retention Resistant to moths, oil and chemicals Superior resistance to sunlight degradation Static and pilling can be a problem Major End Uses: Apparel - sweaters, socks, fleece, circular knit apparel, sportswear, childrenswear ACETATE Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based, made from wood pulp or cotton linters Characteristics: Luxurious appearance Crisp or soft hand Wide range of colors dyes and prints well Excellent drapeability and softness Shrink, moth, and mildew resistant Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying No pilling problem, little static problem Most acetate garments require dry-cleaning Major End Uses: Apparel- Blouses, dresses, linings, special occasion apparel, Acetate is a "dry clean only" fiber. TRIACETATE Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Luxurious hand Excellent drapeability Resilient Excellent pleat retention Washable or dry-cleanable No pilling problem Can have static problem Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, skirts, sportswear, robes, particularly where pleat retention is important RAMIE Natural Fiber - Also known as China grass. Characteristics: Very absorbent (more absorbent than linen) Quick drying Very resistant to mildew and rotting Good strength Smooth lustrous appearance that improves with washing Similar to linen, but lower quality Fibers are brittle, with low twisting or bending strength. Poor resiliency Wrinkles easily Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, suits, separates, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts, childrenswear. LYOCELL Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based Characteristics: Excellent strength Washable Shrink- and wrinkle-resistant Soft hand Excellent drape Absorbent Dyes and prints well Major End Uses: Apparel - dresses, suits, sportswear, pants, jackets, blouses, skirts. NYLON Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Lightweight Exceptional strength Good drapeability Abrasion resistant Easy to wash Resists shrinkage and wrinkling resilient, pleat retentive Fast drying, low moisture absorbency Can be precolored or dyed in a wide range of colors Resistant to damage from oil and many chemicals Static and pilling can be a problem Poor resistance to continuous sunlight Major End Uses: Apparel - swimwear, activewear, intimate apparel, foundation garments, hosiery, blouses, dresses, sportswear, pants, jackets, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel, windbreakers, childrenswear. PLA FIBER (NatureWorks PLA, a corn-based polymer) Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Similar to Cotton in appearance. Natural fiber hand. Wickability/breathability of natural fibers. Good performance qualities. Made from a renewable resource, which is biodegradable. Good flammability resistance. High UV resistance. Excellent drapeability. Can be used in blends with cotton and polyester, or alone. Major End Uses: Apparel - Early markets for this new fiber include lingerie, men's shirts, active sportswear, outerwear, and performance wear. POLYESTER Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Strong Crisp, soft hand Resistant to stretching and shrinkage Washable or dry-cleanable Quick drying Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set) Abrasion resistant Resistant to most chemicals Because of its low absorbency, stain removal can be a problem Static and pilling problems Major End Uses: Apparel - essentially every form of clothing, dresses, blouses, jackets, separates, sportswear, suits, shirts, pants, rainwear, lingerie, childrenswear POLYOLEFIN (Olefin, Polypropylene) )Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Lightweight, lightest fiber, it floats Strong Abrasion resistant, resilient Stain-, static-, sunlight-, and odor-resistant High insulation characteristics Resists deterioration from chemicals, mildew, perspiration, rot and weather Fast drying High wickability Color fast, because colors are incorporated during fiber forming stage Spills can be readily wiped up Static and pilling can be a problem Ironing, washing and drying need to be done at low temperature Non-allergenic Major End Uses: Apparel - activewear, sportswear, jeans, socks, underwear, lining fabrics. VISCOSE RAYON Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based from wood pulp Characteristics: Soft and comfortable Drapes well Highly absorbent Dyes and prints well No static, no pilling problems Fabric can shrink appreciably if washing dry-clean-only rayon Washable or dry cleanable. Major End Uses: Apparel - Blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, millinery, slacks, sport shirts, sportswear, suits, ties, work clothes SPANDEX Manufactured Fiber Characteristics: Lightweight Can be stretched over 500% without breaking Able to be stretched repetitively and still recover original length Abrasion resistant Stronger, more durable than rubber Soft, smooth and supple Resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents No static or pilling problems Major End Uses: Apparel - articles where stretch is desired: athletic apparel, bathing suits, foundation garments, ski pants, slacks, hosiery, socks, belts.