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Textile Fiber

Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for


several thousand years.
The four most commonly used natural fibers during
this time have been wool, flax, cotton and silk.
Fiber
Fibers are hair-like substances which are usually thousand times (at least
100 times) longer than they are thick e.g. cotton, wool, polyester, nylon
etc. To be classified as useful textile fiber, a fiber must be available in large
quantity and be reasonably cheap.
Fiber is the basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted
into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric.
A Filament is a very long fiber. The length of filaments may range from a
few hundred meteres (silk) to several kilometers in the case of manmade
fibers.
Staple fiber filament
CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBER
REQUIRED PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBER
Fiber size: Length, Fineness/Thickness and cross sectional shapes
Durability: Strength, abrasion resistance
Extensibility and elasticity
Color
Affinity towards dyes
Heat or Thermal retention
FIBER SIZE
The Textile Industry takes fibers and turns them into yarns and fabrics
Fiber size plays a big part in determining the performance and hand of a
fabric.
A fiber is characterized by fineness (fiber diameter), flexibility and a high
ratio of length to width.
Large fibers give crispness, roughness, body and stiffness.
Fine fibers give softness and pliability. Fabrics made with fine fibers drape
more easily.
FIBER SIZE (CONTD.)
Length: length should not be less
than 0.5" for staple fibers. Fibers
that are too short are measured
in inches or centimeters rather
than yards or meters are called
staple.
< 15 mm insufficient length to make
them yarn by twisting
>150 mm requires special machine
to make into yarn
Fineness/Thickness: < 10 m too
delicate for making yarn
> 50 m too coarse or too thick yarn
for comfort when used as apparel
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Fibres typically ~ 20 m(0.02mm) across
Cross-section very difficult to determine
eg wool
Fibre Size Thickness
This is far from straightforward
Fineness Units
Usually specified in terms of Linear Density (LD) or fineness
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Direct
tex = weight (g) of 1km
decitex = weight (g) of 10 km
millitex = weight (g) of 1000 km
kilotex = weight (kg) of 1 km
Example:
10 cm fibre weighing 0.02 mg
= 0.00002/0.0001 g per km
= 0.2 tex = 2 dtex = 200 mtex
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Stiffness & handle (ie drape etc)
Torsional rigidity (ie how hard to twist)
- square power dependence on fineness
Fineness - Technological importance
Light reflection
- fine fibres soft sheen
- coarse fibres harsh glitter
Absorption of liquids & fiber cohesion
- related to surface area
Yarn uniformity
- finer fibres give more even yarn
Fibre fineness impacts on a wide range of other properties - here are
just some examples
Cross-sectional Shape of fiber
this shape is
important in luster,
bulk, body,
texture, and hand.
Surface contour
describes the
outer surface of
the fiber and may
be smooth,
serrated, or rough.
It is also important
in luster, hand,
texture, and
apparent soiling of
the fabric.
Cross section of different fiber
Durability
Durability Properties pertains to the lasting ability of a fiber for its end
use.
Abrasion resistance, tenacity and elongation are the strongest
determinants of durability.
Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to withstand the rubbing it
gets in use. This property is especially important in luggage for example.
Tenacity, or tensile strength, is the ability of a fiber to withstand a pulling
force. Strength may be measured in two ways, by how much force it takes
to rip the fabric (tearing strength) and by the force it takes to rupture a
material (bursting strength).
Heat or thermal retention
Heat or thermal retention is the ability of a fabric to hold heat.
A low level of thermal retention is favored in hot weather and a high level
in cold weather.
Density is a measure of fiber weight per unit volume. Lower density fibers
can be made into thick fabrics that are more comfortable than high
density fibers made into heavy, thick fabrics.
OTHER PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBER
Color: white or colorless is preferred
Affinity towards dyes- not only must be capable of being colored but it
must be amenable to dyeing in really fast shades. Generally synthetic
fibers offer difficulty in dyeing.
Extensibility and elasticity- must have a certain minimum amount of
extensibility so as to withstand sudden strains placed on it. Elasticity helps
fabrics to conform to specific contours of the body and to maintain their
original shape in use and wear.
COTTON
Natural Fiber - cellulosic
Characteristics:
Comfortable
Soft hand
Absorbent
Good color retention, prints well
Machine-washable, dry-cleanable
Good strength
Drapes well
Easy to handle and sew
Major End Uses:
Apparel - Wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts, dresses,
childrenswear, activewear, separates, swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts,
pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear.
LINEN
Natural Fiber - made from flax, a vegetable fiber
Characteristics:
Comfortable
Good strength, twice as strong as cotton
Hand-washable or dry-cleanable
Crisp hand
Tailors well
Absorbent
Dyes and prints well
Lightweight to heavyweight
No static or pilling problems
Fair abrasion resistant
Major End Uses:
Apparel - dresses, suits, separates, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts,
childrenswear.
SILK
Natural Fiber - animal fiber created by the silk worm
Characteristics:
Soft or crisp hand
Luxurious
Drapes and tailors well
Thinnest of all natural fibers
Dyes and prints well
Hand-washable or dry-cleanable
Little problem with static, no pilling problem
Only fair abrasion resistance
Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight
Major End Uses:
Apparel - dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, pants, pants, scarves, ties
WOOL
Natural Fiber - made from the fleece of sheep
Characteristics:
Comfortable
Luxurious, soft hand
Versatile
Lightweight
Good insulator
Washable
Wrinkle-resistant
Absorbent
Easy to dye
Major End Uses:
Apparel - sweaters, dresses, coats, suits, jackets, pants, skirts,
childrenswear, loungewear, blouses, shirts, hosiery, scarves.
ACRYLIC
Manufactured Fiber
Characteristics:
Light-weight, soft, warm with a wool-like hand
Dyes to bright colors with excellent fastness
Outstanding wickability
Machine washable, quick drying
Resilient; retains shape; resists shrinkage, & wrinkles
Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like or blended appearance
Excellent pleat retention
Resistant to moths, oil and chemicals
Superior resistance to sunlight degradation
Static and pilling can be a problem
Major End Uses:
Apparel - sweaters, socks, fleece, circular knit apparel, sportswear,
childrenswear
ACETATE
Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based, made from wood pulp
or cotton linters
Characteristics:
Luxurious appearance
Crisp or soft hand
Wide range of colors
dyes and prints well
Excellent drapeability and softness
Shrink, moth, and mildew resistant
Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying
No pilling problem, little static problem
Most acetate garments require dry-cleaning
Major End Uses:
Apparel- Blouses, dresses, linings, special occasion apparel, Acetate is a
"dry clean only" fiber.
TRIACETATE
Manufactured
Fiber Characteristics:
Luxurious hand
Excellent drapeability
Resilient
Excellent pleat retention
Washable or dry-cleanable
No pilling problem
Can have static problem
Major End Uses:
Apparel - dresses, skirts, sportswear, robes, particularly where pleat
retention is important
RAMIE
Natural Fiber - Also known as China grass.
Characteristics:
Very absorbent (more absorbent than linen)
Quick drying
Very resistant to mildew and rotting
Good strength
Smooth lustrous appearance that improves with washing Similar to
linen, but lower quality
Fibers are brittle, with low twisting or bending strength.
Poor resiliency
Wrinkles easily
Major End Uses:
Apparel - dresses, suits, separates, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts,
childrenswear.
LYOCELL
Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based
Characteristics:
Excellent strength
Washable
Shrink- and wrinkle-resistant
Soft hand
Excellent drape
Absorbent
Dyes and prints well
Major End Uses:
Apparel - dresses, suits, sportswear, pants, jackets, blouses, skirts.
NYLON
Manufactured Fiber
Characteristics:
Lightweight
Exceptional strength
Good drapeability
Abrasion resistant
Easy to wash
Resists shrinkage and wrinkling
resilient, pleat retentive
Fast drying, low moisture absorbency
Can be precolored or dyed in a wide range of colors
Resistant to damage from oil and many chemicals
Static and pilling can be a problem
Poor resistance to continuous sunlight
Major End Uses:
Apparel - swimwear, activewear, intimate apparel, foundation garments, hosiery,
blouses, dresses, sportswear, pants, jackets, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel,
windbreakers, childrenswear.
PLA FIBER
(NatureWorks PLA, a corn-based polymer) Manufactured Fiber
Characteristics:
Similar to Cotton in appearance.
Natural fiber hand.
Wickability/breathability of natural fibers.
Good performance qualities.
Made from a renewable resource, which is biodegradable.
Good flammability resistance.
High UV resistance.
Excellent drapeability.
Can be used in blends with cotton and polyester, or alone.
Major End Uses:
Apparel - Early markets for this new fiber include lingerie, men's shirts,
active sportswear, outerwear, and performance wear.
POLYESTER
Manufactured Fiber
Characteristics:
Strong
Crisp, soft hand
Resistant to stretching and shrinkage
Washable or dry-cleanable
Quick drying
Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set) Abrasion
resistant
Resistant to most chemicals
Because of its low absorbency, stain removal can be a problem
Static and pilling problems
Major End Uses:
Apparel - essentially every form of clothing, dresses, blouses, jackets,
separates, sportswear, suits, shirts, pants, rainwear, lingerie,
childrenswear
POLYOLEFIN (Olefin, Polypropylene)
)Manufactured Fiber
Characteristics:
Lightweight, lightest fiber, it floats
Strong
Abrasion resistant, resilient
Stain-, static-, sunlight-, and odor-resistant
High insulation characteristics
Resists deterioration from chemicals, mildew, perspiration, rot and weather
Fast drying
High wickability
Color fast, because colors are incorporated during fiber forming stage
Spills can be readily wiped up
Static and pilling can be a problem
Ironing, washing and drying need to be done at low temperature
Non-allergenic
Major End Uses:
Apparel - activewear, sportswear, jeans, socks, underwear, lining fabrics.
VISCOSE RAYON
Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based from wood pulp
Characteristics:
Soft and comfortable
Drapes well
Highly absorbent
Dyes and prints well
No static, no pilling problems
Fabric can shrink appreciably if washing dry-clean-only rayon
Washable or dry cleanable.
Major End Uses:
Apparel - Blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, millinery, slacks, sport
shirts, sportswear, suits, ties, work clothes
SPANDEX
Manufactured Fiber
Characteristics:
Lightweight
Can be stretched over 500% without breaking
Able to be stretched repetitively and still recover original length
Abrasion resistant
Stronger, more durable than rubber
Soft, smooth and supple
Resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents
No static or pilling problems
Major End Uses:
Apparel - articles where stretch is desired: athletic apparel, bathing suits,
foundation garments, ski pants, slacks, hosiery, socks, belts.

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