Cooking Without Meat - War Guides - 1943

COOKI NG WITHOUT MEAT
COOKI NG
WITHOUT
MEAT
A Supplementary Kitchen Guide
or War- 1 rnie Cookery
By BARBARA RAE
Illustrations by Alice Blodgett
PUBLISHER
M. S. MI LL CO. , I NC.
NEW YORK
COPYRIGHT, 1943, BY
BARBARA RAE
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
form without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a
reviewer who may quote brief passages in a review to be printed in
a magazine or newspaper.
PUBLI SHER' S NOTE
A recent ruling by the War Production Board has curtailed the
use of paper by book publishers.
In line with this ruling and in order to conserve materials and
manpower, we are co-operating by (a) Tising lighter-weight paper
which reduces the bulk of our books, and (b) printing books with
smaller margins and with more words to each page. The text itself
is not abridged or shortened in any way.
We are sure that readers will understand the publishers' desire to
co-operate as fully as possible with the objectives of our government.
HANUFACTUBED IN THE UNI TES STATES OF AMKSICA
BY THE VAIL-BALLOU PRESS, I H C , BIKGBAHTOK, , K. T.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
An author, even though the project undertaken be
only a modest cook book, is always indebted to others
for encouragement and helpful suggestions. Without
the consideration and interest of my husband it is
doubtful if this volume would have been undertaken
and completed. Certainly his willingness to eat experi-
mental dishes was a necessary part of the project, and
his suggestions for changing any recipe usually resulted
in its improvement. Many thanks, Walt.
I should also like to thank Alice Kershaw for her
recipe for Macaroni with Cheese and Tomatoes; Lil-
lian MacDonald for the recipe for Eggplant with
Tomatoes; and Mrs. DeWitt B. Smith for her inspira-
tion to combine String Beans and Mushrooms.
To Alice Blodgett, who illustrated the book, I am
also greatly indebted, not only for her lively drawings,
but for her enthusiasm which made the task seem
worth completing.
Barbara Rae
9870C
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FOREWORD
WHEN THERE IS NO MEAT .
HERBS AND OTHER SEASONINGS .
PROTEINS WITHOUT MEAT . .
A WORD TO THE WI SE . . .
RICE FOR DINNER
SPAGHETTI AND MACARONI . .
CHEESE FOR MEATLESS DAYS . .
THE LEGUME FAMILY . . .
EGG DISHES
VEGETABLES IN THE SPOTLIGHT .
GRAVIES AND SAUCES . . . .
GLOSSARY . . . . . .
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX
vn
I I
*5
21
2
5
37
5
59
70
79
92
108
121
122
*
2
3
vii
FOREWORD
You will not find between the covers of this book
any elaborate menu plan, covering weeks or months.
How could anyone present such a scheme and imagine
that it would be economical? Nobody could know that
on Tuesday your husband would lose his appetite and
not eat the dinner you carefully prepared, leaving you
with extra food to be used somehow. The most any
compiler of a cook book could hope to do, in these
times when economy in the kitchen is essential, is to
give you suggestions for dishes that will make the most
of your rationed foods and left-overs, leaving it up to
you to follow the suggestions when they apply to your
situation.
This I have tried to do, using recipes that contain no
meat and at the same time call for a minimum of other
rationed foods. Principally, I have tried to describe
dishes that really taste good, that are not just any
old concoction, because I know from experience that
meatless dishes can be extremely savory. They are, in
my own vegetarian household.
I have prepared this book to pass on whatever
knowledge may help others who must eat less meat
through necessity, and to encourage them to try the
same delectable dishes that vegetarians who prize flavor
have been enjoying right along.
It is assumed that you who may use this book already
know how to cook. Even so, I have tried to give di-
rections clearly and completely so that any unfamiliar
process will not seem a formidable undertaking. Don't
x FOREWORD
let the use of herbs or strong vegetables like onions,
peppers or garlic scare you, please. All are very neces-
sary in preparing vegetarian fare that has real zest. And
they are easy to use, once you get on to their behavior.
So, during this period of food shortages, I hope you
will find this book a useful supplement to your standard
kitchen guides. And when the world has finally re-
jected violence for the kindly state of cooperation and
peace, you may wish to take some of these recipes with
you into a new era of plenty which lies ahead, some-
where.
Barbara Rae
Providence, Rhode Island
September, 1943
WHEN THERE IS NO MEAT
Doing with little meat, one of the necessities of war-
time, means a drastic change in the eating habits of
most North Americans, a change many resent and
most cooks deplore. For it is true that the average meal
(luncheon or dinner) is planned around the meat dish.
Not only that, but the rest of the meal usually receives
less attention, both in preparation and eating, and is
often practically obscured in meat gravy with the re-
sult that even the flavor of vegetables is masked by the
odor and savor of meat.
Not surprising, then, that meatless meals are a prob-
lem. The cook is left without the customary high spot
in her menu, and foods that before received little at-
tention must now stand on their own merits. This is
not all tragedy, however. Other foods worthy of ac-
quaintance have distinctive and subtle flavors which
frequently go unnoticed in competition with the dom-
inating taste of meat. And still other delectable foods
are seldom served in meat-eating households, a priva-
tion no lover of good food would knowingly endure.
12 COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
So if steaks and chops have left your table and a new
cooking era confronts you, set'out with anticipation
to explore a new realm of gastronomic wonders. There
are many pleasant surprises ahead for you and your
family.
Faced with the complexities and restrictions of a
rationed larder, you may be inclined to be skeptical
about the joys of war-time cooking. Naturally, it
means considerable readjustment, but it can be a game,
a battle of wits. By accepting your limitations as a
challenge, you will find increased satisfaction in the
preparation of palatable meals.
You, as cook and guide in this culinary venture, will
have four primary problems:
i. The substitution of savory dishes that will satisfy
your family's appetite for the high flavor of meat.
2. The substitution of foods that will provide all
the necessary proteins formerly supplied by meat.
3. The substitution of a main dish, a menu high-
point, that will take the place of the absent meat and
around which the meal may be planned.
4. The substitution of unrationed and fresh foods
for hard-to-get or severely limited canned goods.
This book has been prepared to help you solve these
problems, and to make the change-over to meatless
meals a pleasure rather than grim necessity.
Of course, you may have failures in the sense that
your family won't accept all the new dishes with alac-
rity. This is inevitable, and hardly a reflection on your
cooking ability. It simply means that you will have to
be guided by their known preferences and not continu-
ally thrust on them meat substitute dishes containing
large amounts of a disliked ingredient.
No doubt you already have satisfactory recipes that
do not require meat, and you will wisely present these
WHEN THERE IS NO MEAT 13
first to help ease your family gently over the transi-
tion. Simply extend this safe practice when you pre-
sent a new meatless masterpiece. For example, be sure
to serve with it some other food you know they like,
whether it's a vegetable or their favorite muffins. It
will save you from total disappointment if the new
dish is not well received, and will help to send the eaters
from the table satisfied in spite of their apathy towards
part of the meal.
From the standpoint of health and taste, you will
also do well to break yourself of the habit (if yours it
is) of paying slight attention to any accessory dishes
you serve. Vegetables in particular, because of the ease
with which they lose their vitamins and minerals
through improper cooking, deserve all the care you
can give to their preparation. The color they provide,
as well as their distinctive and often abused flavors, will
help to dress your table and whet appetites. It is no
wonder cooked vegetables are often under-appreciated
when they appear at the table a sodden, wilted mess,
without form or natural color. As any homespun psy-
chologist knows, if food looks good, one is predisposed
to like the taste, too.
Another way to lend zest to your new diet is to
serve more hot rolls and muffins. They really don't
take much time to concoct, especially when you can
get prepared mixes that only require the addition of
milk, water or eggs. But it is cheaper to make your
own. Think of the variety of muffins, for instance
oatmeal, corn, whole wheat, baking powder, bran,
cheese, English, graham or rice. And there are pop-
overs, a real treat for the small cost and labor involved.
Finally, if you are really ambitious, there are rolls to
be made from yeast dough into intriguing shapes. The
dough will keep in a good refrigerator for a week, and
i
4
COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
can be baked in any desired amount. With the possibil-
ity of bread shortages, it won't come amiss to practice
up on your kneading.
Gravy, that important and aromatic adjunct of
roasts, need not disappear with meat, for gravies or
sauces can be made without meat juice. In fact they
are such a prominent feature of vegetarian cooking
that an entire chapter is devoted to their preparation
and use.
II
HERBS AND OTHER SEASONINGS
A major cause for dissatisfaction with vegetarian
meals is that they frequently lack flavor, high flavor.
Meat, even ineptly prepared, is intrinsically savory.
With this standby eliminated from some or all of your
meals, you must get acquainted with new (but basi-
cally old) ways of adding relish to your food. It is
easily done, and with gratifying results.
Your primary ally in preparing main dishes as well
as sauces will be herbs, those versatile little plants that
have been prized for their seasoning qualities since the
days of Ancient Greece. You won't need to become an
herb specialist, though the taste enhancement which
results from the use of herbs may start you on a new
and fascinating hobby, herb gardening.* But you will
have to experiment in the kitchen if you wish to know
the satisfaction their use brings to cooking.
Part of the fun, of course, comes when a look of
surprised pleasure lights the faces at your table and
* If you are interested in your own garden of herbs, read Irma
Goodrich Mazza's HERBS FOR THE KITCHEN, Chapter 3.
15
you are eagerly questioned, "What makes this so
good?" When herbs are used properly, this compli-
mentary question is bound to be asked.
Most of the herbs listed in the recipes of this book
should be available at your grocery store in dried form.
Even if grown at home, Northerners will have to use
the dried form during the winter. So remember, when
substituting dried for fresh herbs in any recipe, or vice
versa, that dried herbs are much stronger than the
fresh. Use about one teaspoon of dried where one
tablespoon of fresh would be required. There is an-
other important distinction. Fresh herbs (especially
tarragon) become bitter if they are cooked more than
an hour, but when dried they may be added to the dish
at any stage of its preparation. And, since it takes herbs
a while to release their flavor, add them to uncooked
food as long as possible before serving, making a
powder of the dried variety and bruising the fresh to
spread the essence quickly.
When experimenting with herbs, apply the fragrant
leaves sparingly. It's easy to misuse and overuse them,
especially such potent ones as tarragon, thyme, sage,
summer savory, basil or rosemary. And, incidentally,
don't use the strong ones together, or they will neutral-
ize each other. Each is an individualist, revealing its
virtues best without competition.
To help in remembering some of the uses of herbs,
you might make a list to be tacked on the kitchen bulle-
tin board or over your work table where you can refer
to it easily, rather than searching through a cook book
every time you want guidance. Add to this list as you
learn new combinations, but remember to consider it
as a guide, not a limitation on your own ingenuity.
Here are a few of the more common herbs:
Basil leaves are a favorite seasoning in Italian dishes,
HERBS AND OTHER SEASONINGS 17
which means that they blend superbly with tomatoes.
Try them also in soups, sauces, salads, cheese, peas,
potatoes, eggs and eggplant. The obvious place to pur-
chase them is a grocery catering to an Italian clientele.
Leaves from the bay laurel tree, available at most
groceries, are especially useful in flavoring soups,
stews, tomatoes, sauces and even stewed figs. Usually
half a bay leaf is sufficient to impart distinction.
As a change from parsley which it closely resembles
in use and taste, chervil leaves are delicate additions
in summer salads, sauces, soups and egg and cheese
dishes. You may have difficulty purchasing chervil
unless there is an Italian grocer in the neighborhood,
so growing at home is indicated.
The young tips and leaves of fresh dill are a crisp
flavoring for potato salad, cheese, cucumber dishes,
avacados, beans and eggs, while the seeds are used pri-
marily in pickling. Here again home growing may be
the only means of supplying your kitchen.
Fennel seeds do well in sauces, soups and egg dishes,
and the fresh leaves are delicious in salads. The plant
is also cooked as a vegetable. If your grocer doesn't
carry the seeds they L y be purchased in any well
stocked Italian food store.
Sweet marjoram leaves, both fresh and dried, en-
hance numerous foods: all soups, stews, cheese, squash,
spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms and dressing, to men-
tion only a few. This herb may be used interchange-
ably with wild marjoram, or oregano, which is widely
used in Mexican and Spanish bean dishes, sauces and
soups. Oregano is a staple in Italian and Spanish gro-
ceries, should you be unable to get it at your regular
market.
It seems almost unnecessary to mention parsley, that
abused little plant whose use is often limited to garnish-
ing boiled potatoes. Really, it is much more adaptable!
Try it in soups and sauces, with vegetables and cheese,
and see what more it can do. And don't forget it in
salads. The leaves are available dried as well as fresh,
though the fresh are far preferable.
Rosemary is another versatile herb for soups and
sauces. It_gives zest to stuffings and, especially, to salads
The Italian grocer carries it as a matter of course, if
you can't obtain it at an "American" store. The little
leaves are very fragrant and should be used carefully.
One of the few well known herbs is sage, currently
finding its primary role in stuffings. But if you wish to
discover the culinary feats of which it is capable, ig-
nore this limitation. A little goes a long way with
cheese, in sauces and meatless roasts and with string
beans. Use sparingly, for it is strong.
The familiar spearmint, growing wild by the back
fence, has a ready acceptance in fruit punch, and it
does just as well in sauces and pea soup, with vegetables
and potatoes.
Another strong herb is summer savory. Use it in
stuffings, sauces, vegetable juices, rice and with beans,
especially when baked. But again, be careful not to
use too much.
Both tarragon and thyme have healthy individual
odors and are welcome in small quantities in salads,
mayonnaise, soups, sauces and egg or tomato dishes.
Thyme is very good with peas and carrots as well. Tar-
ragon may be harder to obtain, but by visiting groceries
catering to a foreign clientele, or herbal pharmacies,
you should locate some.
This is by no means a complete list of herbs or their
uses, only a hint of what you can do with a few. For
summer salads you will want to add coriander (ground
seeds and fresh leaves, used sparingly), water cress,
HERBS AND OTHER SEASONINGS 19
white mustard leaves, sorrel, nasturtium (both leaves
and flowers), burnet, balm or lovage.
Though it would be hard to over-emphasize the im-
portance of herbs, there are other seasonings you will
find indispensable.
Of first importance in the vegetable category is the
onion family, including shallots, leeks and chives. Even
the common white sauce becomes a relish to linger
over when it is flavored with one of the onion quartet,
minced. And practically no sauce to be served with
vegetables, rice or macaroni is complete without the
familiar onion quality. Garlic, too, is a prime requisite
in any good cook's closet although her squeamish
guests need not know it, or their breath suffer from it,
if she uses the little cloves subtly.
Certain vegetables and fruits, aside from their nutri-
tive value, have palatable contributions to make in the
preparation of vegetarian meals. Mushrooms will only
give you one vitamin, but what a pervasive and delicate
seasoning they are! A dime's worth goes a long way,
even when the cost per pound is relatively high-
Celery is staple fare in America, and its leaves are an
admirable seasoning in salads, soups and stews. The
dried leaves, and you can easily dry them yourself, are
useful in sauces and in the soup pot which is making its
reappearance with rationing.
Tomatoes go to the head of any list of sauce ingredi-
ents, and you will find sauces indispensable under a
meatless cooking regime. The familiar bell or sweet
green pepper is another useful flavoring, especially in
company with milder foods like rice or dried beans.
Expensive out of season, they are still worth buying in
small quantities to color other dishes. In season, a gener-
ous vitamin content entitles them to more general use
as a vegetable. Hot peppers are invaluable in dishes of
2o COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
Latin origin. When fresh peppers are not available,
chili powder is an adequate substitute.
Among the fruits, lemons rank high in their contri-
bution to meatless dishes. The grated rind puts a tang
into more than a few thingsfor example, potatoes
fried with onions. Lemon juice, if limited to mayon-
naise, is a culinary friend criminally neglected.
Wine (where it does not represent too great a
luxury) has its special place on the kitchen shelf too,
as well as several prepared sauces such as Worcester-
shire, Tabasco, horseradish, A-i and mustard. Bouil-
lon cubes and vegetable stock come to the rescue in
recipes calling for meat broth, as do prepared gravy
concentrates.
Really, though, everything you cook has a flavor of
its own, and your job is to get it to the table with the
maximum natural flavor, plus whatever heightened
relish condiments can give.
I l l
PROTEI NS WI THOUT MEAT
While the taste of the food on your table is probably
the primary consideration of your family, more goes
into the preparation of a good dinner than flavoring
and careful cooking. So let's spend a few moments on
the cook's problem of getting sufficient proteins to take
the place of meat, since the cook is usually her own
dietitian.
As you probably know, the best meat substitutes are
milk, eggs, cheese and nuts. Both eggs and milk belong
in the daily diet anyway, and on meatless days it is
necessary to increase the amounts used. Fortunately,
both these foods can be used in making other dishes,
and an extra amount of them can be slipped in without
danger of monotony. As long as it is plentiful, try to
use a quart of whole milk (or its equivalent dried or
condensed) daily for each member of the family and
you can be pretty sure they are getting an adequate
supply. (Yes, I know. Adults can get along nicely
with only a pint a day. But don't forget that extra ra-
tions are needed if you are going to compensate for
meat protein.)
Later there will be recipes for egg dishes that can
proudly take the place of "meat for dinner." Once a
week, eggs as eggs should be received happily by your
family at the evening meal. But don't overdo it. Eggs
go into meatless roasts and breadstuffs and are the bind-
ing agent in many casseroles, so use them inconspicu-
ously except when they are the main dish. Your dairy
bill can be cut down by using Grade B or C eggs in
cooking.
The third primary meat substitute is cheese and, if
your family doesn't care for it, it's time to win them
over for the sake of their health as well as for the eat-
ing pleasure they are missing. If you have been serving
cheese heretofore only with apple pie, start converting
yourself and your family with such a dish as the To-
mato Rarebit in Chapter Seven, served over crisp salt-
ines. Although you may have to go without meat in
order to have cheese these days, remember before pass-
ing it up that cheese is usually a better buy than meat
in both points and pennies.
As with eggs, cheese does not have to appear too
often as the main dish. It may flavor a gravy or sauce,
be sprinkled on macaroni and spaghetti, or grated over
soup. It is a satisfying dessert with crackers after a
hearty meal. Because of its distinctive flavor this prod-
uct brings added relish to other foods while contribu-
ting to a balanced diet.
Nuts, with their range of tastes, should be included
in your meatless meals, too. Bread 'n butter 'n peanut
butter stands up importantly with its array of vitamins,
minerals and proteins. And peanut butter can be used
in cooking. But go slowly. Your family may not find
it palatable in a meatless roast or lima bean loaf, and
PROTEINS WITHOUT MEAT 23
demand it plain or not at all. In cooking, start first with
less positive nuts. Walnuts blend well with many vege-
table stuffings and casseroles because of their bland
flavor. Almonds are good mixers, too. Be guided by
your purse and a good deal of discretion until you have
determined family preference. Like cheese, nuts can
be used often for extra relish or as dessert, while con-
tributing their share of protein.
Among the lesser lights in the protein food group are
all dried legumes (peas, beans, lentils), corn and all
grain. Technically, each one is not a complete meat
substitute because alone it does not contain all the
known kinds of proteins utilized by the body, or the
same amounts of iron, phosphorus and B vitamins that
are found in meat. So don't serve any of these foods
consistently as the only substitute.
Replacing meat in the diet is not so great a problem
as it seems, nor does it have to be met with a vast
amount of technical knowledge. By varying the pro-
tein food in your menus, and allowing at least one
serving of a meat substitute every meatless day, you
can be sure you are meeting standard health require-
ments. For good measure, it is wise to fortify other
dishes as well, whenever the fortifying agents are avail-
able.
If you are not following a strict vegetarian diet,
gelatin with its high content of animal protein is valu-
able in augmenting the daily ration of body-building
food. It can be served in attractively molded desserts
or salads, or the powder may be drunk in fruit juice.
Another way to get extra vitamins and proteins is to
use rice polishings and wheat germ in cooking. The
polish, a byproduct of milling, can be used in cooking
and baking to enrich breads, cereals, pastries, gravies
and any other foods utilizing flour. Two parts of flour
to one of polish is the usual proportion. Many people
use wheat germ sprinkled over cereals and fruits, and
it can be used with flour (but not in place of flour) in
baking. Health stores are the best source of supply for
both these products.
At .the risk of repeating what you have probably
read elsewhere, this is a list of the foods the Depart-
ment of Agriculture urges everyone to eat daily.
i. Milkat least i pint for adults and % to i quart
for children.
2. Tomatoes, oranges, grapefruit, raw cabbage or
salad greensi or more servings.
3. Green or yellow vegetables1 or more servings.
4. Other vegetables or fruit2 or more servings.
5. Lean meat, poultry, fish, or sometimes dried
beans, peas, or nuts1 or more servings.
6. Eggs1 a day, or at least 3 or 4 a week.
7. Cereals and bread2 or more servings of whole
grain or enriched products.
8. Butter and other fats.
By following this list, and serving on each vegetarian
day one dish that is a real meat substitute, your diet will
fulfill every requirement of a balanced menu. If, at a
later date, the food supply is so severely curtailed that
a balanced diet is no longer possible, we will just have
to hitch up our aprons and make the best of it, still us-
ing the list above as a guide in the use of what food
remains.
A WORD TO THE WISE
With most food products rationed, the primary rule
about food is, "Don't waste!" But this preachment is
being made on all sides and there is no need for elabo-
ration from me. Several books on war-time cooking *
have been prepared to help the housewife conserve
and stretch her food supply, substitute for sugar, and
sustain her wilted morale in the face of shortages. Since
the special province of this book is cooking without
meat, there is no space for more general treatment of
the whole food problem.
However, certain restricted foods are mentioned
frequently in this volume because of their importance
in meatless meals, and it is entirely relevant to mention
practical schemes for utilizing them to best advantage.
Tomatoes are the first consideration because they
are used so often in sauces and gravies, as well as in
other dishes for their flavor. Naturally, in season fresh
tomatoes should be used instead of taking them from a
can. But for many people all year around, the canned
*See Bibliography.
25
article will be the principle source of supply. In that
case, ration points can be saved by purchasing tomato
paste for many cooking uses instead of paying in points
for the weight of tomatoes canned whole. Tomatoes
contain a large percentage of water, and you will save
just that amount in weight if you order the paste from
which most of the moisture has been removed. Paste,
diluted with water, will give an extremely economical
cooking tomato juice. Don't forget, thousrh, that the
paste is not seasoned. It will need more attention from
herbs and condiments than regular tomato juice.
These facts about tomato paste are useful to remem-
ber.
i. One six-ounce can of paste contains six good
tablespoons of essence of tomato, the equivalent of
two pounds of fresh tomatoes.
2. One generous tablespoon of tomato paste should
be mixed with one cup of water or vegetable stock for
a good cooking tomato juice. This means that one six-
ounce can holds the makings of at least i Vi quarts of
tomato flavored liquid.
3. In making tomato juice to be served at the table,
the proportion of water is reduced for richer flavor.
Use five or six parts of water to one part of paste, mix
thoroughly, season with salt, pepper and bay leaf or
preferred herb, and chill before serving.
4. Transforming the paste into tomato cocktail re-
quires more preparation, but the effort will result in
an inexpensive supply of this limited product. To one
six-ounce can of paste add a quart of water, a small
minced onion, two stalks of celery, six whole cloves
and one bay leaf. Simmer for 15 minutes before adding
a teaspoon of lemon juice and salt to taste. Strain, and
serve hot or cold.
A WORD TO THE WISE 27
Another caution about purchasing canned tomatoes:
buy the close-packed variety so that you are paying in
ration points only for the weight of tomatoes instead
of for the high percentage of juice in loosely packed
varieties. You can dilute them yourself with juice or
water to stretch them further.
Canned tomatoes in any form are so extravagant
from a rationing point of view that it becomes almost
necessary to give them up as a stewed vegetable with
the meal, unless they represent such a delicacy to your
family that you serve them as a special treat. In that
case, stretch them with bread crumbs.
You will probably find it true of most rationed
goods that they can be extended best in combination
with other foods. For example, many of the recipes in
this book use small quantities of any one vegetable al-
though the dish which results serves five or six people.
Cooking fats and oils should be mentioned here
since they are frequently listed as ingredients in the
recipes to follow. If you are observing a strict vege-
tarian diet, lard will not have a place on your food
shelf, but there are many solid vegetable fats, like
Crisco, Spry, or the margarines, which may be used
instead. When the recipe calls for oil, any of the vege-
table cooking or salad oils is satisfactory. These prod-
ucts are derived from olive, cotton seed, soybean, pea-
nut, or corn oil, or a combination of them. The label
indicates which oils are being purchased. I have not
mentioned butter, though it is one of the richest cook-
ing fats, because of its scarcity and high ration value.
It may always be used when the recipe requires fat.
Fats and oils can be conserved by cutting down the
amounts required in most recipes. Several recipes listed
in this book specify two or more tablespoons in which
minced onions, garlic, or green peppers are to be
cooked. One tablespoon will usually suffice, but the
pan must be watched closely and its contents stirred
frequently to prevent burning. If you want to pay the
price, olive oil is excellent in place of the more com-
monly used vegetable cooking and salad oils, and for
the moment at least, it is unrationed. And, unless you
are preparing orthodox vegetarian meals, save all fat
from meat and convert it into useful cooking fat. Clar-
ifying directions should be given in your standard cook
book.
Light, moisture, air and w
y
armth are factors in mak-
ing fat rancid, so keep it covered and stored in a dark,
dry, cool place. Oils especially are quickly affected by
air and should always be covered tightly and, when
possible, the container should be kept full to exclude
air.
Besides buying fresh vegetables when they are in
season and conserving canned products for the winter
months, I have found it helpful in my own kitchen to
have a rationing point chart tacked on the wall above
the sink. There it is easily referred to before the pre-
cious coupons are spent, plans are made a month ahead,
and if any coupons are left over after immediate needs
are satisfied, they are used for products that are staple
requirements for the kind of cooking I do. Another
helpful chart is one issued by the United States Bureau
of Home Economics called "Vitamins from Farm to
You." Listing the vitamin content of dairy products,
fruits and common vegetables, it is a fitting kitchen
companion for the ration chart, a reliable guide to the
food value of your dollars, and is obtainable without
cost.
A word about the recipes in following chapters.
You may find that some of them require foods like
eggs and cheese in amounts exceeding either your
pocketbook or ration allotment. In most such recipes,
the amount of cheese can be reduced without harming
the flavor of the dish, especially if you use sharp cheese.
What is derisively called "rat-trap" cheese is a very
good ingredient for cooking because of its strength. If
it is not possible to obtain as many eggs as you are ac-
customed to, they can be extended with milk or water,
or left out of many dishes altogether. As with cheese,
it would be wise, in case of more stringent limitations
later, to use them on days when a lack of meat makes
their protein content necessary in the daily menu.
The following recipes are examples of meatless main
dishes that utilize left-overs and stretch ration coupons.
SPINACH SOUFFLE WITH MARJORAM
(4 or 5 servings)
4
Vz
I
eggs
to 1 Vz cups cooked,
chopped spinach
scant teaspoon dried
marjoram
Salt to taste
1 Yz tablespoons minced
chives, or 1 table-
spoon minced onion
4 tablespoons light cream,
or half whole and
half condensed milk
Paprika
Separate the eggs and beat yolks well. To the yolks
add spinach, salt, paprika, chives, marjoram, and
cream, and mix thoroughly. Then fold in well beaten
whites, and turn into greased casserole. Set dish in pan
of hot water and bake from 20 to 30 minutes in a 375
degree oven.
lerve immediately with the following sauce.
30
SOUFFLE SAUCE
l
/
2
cup vegetable stock
Y
2
cup milk
i tablespoon fat or cook-
ing oil
i tablespoon flour
i hard-boiled egg,
chopped
2 teaspoons minced onion
l
/
2
bay leaf
i sprig parsley, or i tea-
spoon chopped
Y
2
teaspoon celery salt
Salt and pepper to taste
Fry onion in fat, add flour, and cook at least 5 min-
utes. Add heated milk and stock, bay leaf and parsley,
cooking mixture another ten minutes. Stir in celery
salt, season with salt and pepper and add chopped egg
at the last.
RICE AND VEGETABLE CASSEROLE
(4 or 5 servings)
Rice is a good extender for left-over vegetables.
This casserole can be varied according to what you
have on hand.
Yi
n
A
Yi
Vz
Yi
cup raw nee
small turnip, cubed
cup peas, canned or
fresh
cup tomatoes, canned or
stewed
small onion, sliced thin
2 medium potatoes, sliced
thin
Yi teaspoon salt
Pepper
Dash allspice
2 cups vegetable stock
Pinch dried tarragon
Place ingredients in alternate layers in greased cas-
serole, season each layer, and pour on stock. Cover and
bake at 350 degrees until rice is tender and potatoes
cooked. Serve with one of the gravies listed in Chapter
Eleven.
MIXED VEGETABLE GRAVY
(Makes 2
1
/
2
cups)
Another way of presenting left-over vegetables as
the main dish is to serve them mixed together or in
separate mpunds on a platter, and covered with a dis-
tinctive sauce or gravy.
2 tablespoons fat or cook- 1 cup vegetable stock or
ing oil bouillon
Yi cup mushrooms, sliced 1 cup milk
1 tablespoon chopped 1 tablespoon minced pars-
green pepper ley
2 or 3 tablespoons flour Dash cayenne pepper
l
/
2
teaspoon salt Pinch tarragon
Y
2
Fry chopped pepper in fat and stir in flour. Cook
5 minutes and add milk gradually. When mixture is
well blended, add seasonings. Meanwhile, soak mush-
rooms in boiling stock 5 minutes and add both to first
mixture with parsley and tarragon. If you wish, a table-
spoon of chopped pimiento may be added also.
STUFFED PEPPERS
When bell peppers are in season, they make an in-
expensive and colorful foundation for many meatless
meals. The ingredients given here are enough to stuff
three large peppers.
3 medium carrots, diced 1 tablespoon fat or oil
Y
2
cup stewed tomatoes, or 1 clove garlic, minced fine
1 teaspoon tomato 6 tablespoons cooked peas
P?
Ste
r \ ^ V "
2 medium omons, sliced Grated cheese
thin 3 large green peppers
Split peppers in half lengthwise, remove seeds and
veins, and boil in salted water for 20 minutes. Drain,
and reserve cooking water. Meanwhile, fry onions and
minced garlic gently in fat for 5 minutes. Add to them
carrots and tomatoes with a small amount of salted
water and cook until carrots are done and
4
water evap-
orated. (If tomato paste is used, add to carrots and
onions after they have been cooked.) Mix in peas,
moisten with a little cooking water from peppers and
fill peppers. Sprinkle grated cheese over tops, and set
in warm oven until ready to serve.
SAVORY RING
(Serves 5 or 6)
For a very tasty but inexpensive ring mold, t ry this
recioe.
3
1
/
2
cups bread crumbs
1 large onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fat or
cooking oil
1 tablespoon flour or
rice polish
Y
2
1 teaspoon chopped
parsley
% teaspoon dried summer
savory
% teaspoon dried mar-
joram
J4 teaspoon dried thyme or
sage
% to 1 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon grated lemon
peel, if desired
Salt and pepper
Fry onion and minced garlic in fat until yellow, add
flour, and cook about 5 minutes. Stir in half the milk,
cook a few minutes longer and remove from fire. Mix
in herbs, crumbs and all seasonings. Then add beaten
egg, more milk if necessary, and pack into greased ring
mold or casserole. Bake in moderate oven 20 to 30 min-
utes.
In spite of its modest origin, this is an extremely sav-
ory dish, and capable of much variation. Fill the mold
with creamed vegetables of any sort, or serve it with
mushroom gravy if you present it as a casserole. Some
protein di shVul d L served at the same meal.
FRESH MUSHROOM GRAVY FOR SAVORY
RING
(Makes 2
1
/
2
cups)
1 or more cups sliced
2
/
3
cup milk
mushrooms 1 tablespoon Worcester-
iY
2
cups boiling water shire, soy, or any pre-
2 tablespoons fat or ferred sauce
cooking oil Salt and pepper to taste
2 or 3 tablespoons flour
Let sliced mushrooms boil in water for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, make a roux of fat and flour, and add milk
to it gradually. Then add mushrooms with the water
they boiled in, salt and pepper to taste, and stir until
thickened. Add Worcestershire sauce and serve in
gravy bowl. A teaspoon of minced onion, fried in fat
before adding the flour, gives the gravy additional
relish.
VEGETABLE CAKES
Mexican housewives frequently make little vege-
table cakes which are served with a peppery sauce, and
the practice may be transplanted to North American
kitchens with gratifying results.
Chop together equal quantities of two or three
cooked vegetables and add another equal part of
cooked, chopped onion. Stir in one beaten egg and
bread crumbs moistened with milk, the amount of
crumbs being determined by the quantity of vege-
tables. Use n'ot much more irhan thfe amount of any
one vegetable. Season the mixture with salt and pepper
and a pinch each of chili powder and wild marjoram.
Pack into greased timbale pans and bake 15 or 20 min-
utes in a moderately hot oven, or mold into flat cakes,
dip in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry until brown
on both sides.
Serve them with a Mexican sauce, perhaps this sim-
ple one:
MEXICAN SAUCE FOR VEGETABLE CAKES
(Makes 1 y
2
cups)
1 onion, chopped 1 large tomato, chopped
1 tablespoon olive or cook- (fresh or canned), or
ing oil r tablespoon tomato
i clove garlic, minced paste
1 teaspoon chili powder 1 cup vegetable stock
Fry onion and garlic in oil until yellow and add
chili powder, stirring well. Add tomato (or paste) and
broth. Bring mixture to a boil and simmer 10 minutes,
stirring occasionally. If you wish a thicker sauce, add
a little flour or rice polish mixed with the chili powder.
Season to taste and serve.
MEXICAN RICE
(Serves 4 or 5)
When the left-over is about a cup of some kind of
tomato sauce, use it to flavor rice the following day,
and you will have an entirely new dish. This is the way
it's done:
1 cup raw rice 2 or 3 cups vegetable stock
1 heaping tablespoon fat or or bouillon
oil Salt and pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced fine 1 cup (more or less) left-
1 onion, chopped over tomato sauce
Wash rice until rinse water is clear, then let it dry.
Melt fat in saucepan and add rice. Stir occasionally,
and when it begins to brown, clear a small space in the
center for garlic and chopped onion. When they, too,
are well browned, mix in with rice, and add tomato
sauce and part of the vegetable stock. Season and stir
ingredients well. Then cover saucepan and let mixture
simmer without stirring until rice is dry. Add more
stock, continuing process until rice is done. At this
time all moisture should be absorbed.
A word about the sauce. If you are using a highly
seasoned Mexican sauce, the above ingredients are suf-
ficient. But with a milder tomato sauce it is wise to
add 2 tablespoons chopped green pepper and Yi tea-
spoon chili powder t o > e recipe" &v e . Introduce
chopped pepper with onions and garlic and then stir
in chili powder.
CURRIED CARROTS
(Serves 4 or 5)
Left-over Curry Sauce is just as valuable in provid-
ing a second meal, if you manage to have any left over.
1 cup left-over Curry % cup rich milk or evapo-
Sauce rated milk
2 cups cooked carrots, cut
in rounds
3
Heat carrots in Curry Sauce over low flame, adding
a little vegetable stock if too thick. Don't add too
much, however, for the milk will dilute somewhat.
When carrots are thoroughly heated, and just before
taking from fire, add milk. Serve in the center of a rice
ring.
This small selection of recipes will give you an idea
of the many ways your left-overs can be stretched. It
is in these extender recipes especially that wheat germ
and rice polish should be used to enrich the meal
added in amounts varying between a teaspoonful and
a tablespoonful to compensate for the food value often
lacking in left-overs.
V
RI CE FOR DI NNER
Rice is so important in providing main dishes for
meals where meat is absent that we must consider care-
fully its treatment in the kitchen. Unless the prepared
grain is plump and fluffy, with each kernel separate
and distinct, the cook has failed to master this phase of
the culinary art.
To me, brown rice is far preferable to white, mainly
because it seems ridiculous to serve a grain that has had
most of its food properties removed together with part
of its flavor, and also because brown rice never be-
comes gummy, even when overcooked-flaky and
crumbly, but never gummy. So take note, if you have
trouble with white rice.
But suit yourself in this matter. Both brown and
white rice are cooked alike, though brown takes longer
to become tender. As a concession to popular usage,
the recipes in this chapter are timed for white rice,
unless brown is specifically required.
To boil rice, first wash the grains several times in
hot water, rubbing them between your hands until the
37
water runs off clear. Have a kettle of rapidly boiling,
salted water ready (about ten cups of water to one of
rice), and drop the rice gradually into it. Reduce the
heat a little, and boil gently with pan uncovered for
about twenty minutes, nearer thirty in the case of
brown rice. The grains will be kept in motion by the
activity of the water. If there is any tendency towards
sticking, shake the pan to loosen any clinging kernels.
Never stir rice while it is boiling. When it is done (that
is, when the kernels have no hard center when pressed
between thumb and finger), drain the rice in a colander
and dash plenty of cold water through it to keep the
grains separate. Then place the colander over hot
water or in a warm oven until you are ready to serve.
One cup of raw rice amounts to about three cups when
cooked. Save the water for other cooking uses.
Steaming preserves more of the food properties of
rice than boiling, and is done this way:
For each cup of rice use i Yt cupfuls of water (more
if you like very soft rice) and a teaspoon of salt. Heat
the water in the top of a double boiler, having plenty
of boiling water in the lower part, and shake in the
well-washed rice. Cover tightly and cook without stir-
ring until the grains are done and the water completely
absorbed, leaving only a pile of steaming, plump rice.
Brown rice requires two or more cups of water for
each cup of rice.
In steaming, you can enrich the flavor of plain rice
by cooking with vegetable stock, bouillon or tomato
juice. If tomato juice seems too extravagant, use water
to which tomato paste has been added. A pinch of
powdered saffron in the water will tint the kernels a
delicate yellow.
Wild rice, more expensive than regular varieties, is
RICE FOR DINNER 39
not a true rice but the seed of a grass growing wild in
marsh lands. Wild rice has a more individual and some-
what stronger flavor than its cousins and may be used
in much the same way. To cook it, cover with cold,
salted water and boil for 20 to 25 minutes in a covered
kettle. When done, drain the water off and set the
kettle uncovered in a warm oven to steam.
And a tip on reheating left-over rice. Place it in a
colander an'd pour hot wL r through it several times;
then place the colander over hot water to steam for
five or ten minutes before serving.
If, after careful preparation, the rice is not fluffy
with the grains separate, it is time to try another brand.
Inferior rice just doesn't behave well, even when
kindly treated.
According to tests made by the United States Bu-
reau of Home Economics, Rexoro and Fortuna long-
grain American rice have the best cooking qualities;
Blue Rose, a medium-grain type and the biggest sell-
ing variety in this country, is in third place; and Caloro,
a short-grain rice, is fourth out of seven types tested
under uniform conditions. Each variety requires a dif-
ferent cooking time, ranging from 16 to 22 minutes, so
it is best not to mix them.
Boiled or steamed rice, accompanied by sauces,
gravies or stews, makes an attractive and satisfying
main dish. You will find a variety of sauces in Chapter
Eleven that go well with rice. But this is only the be-
ginning. Rice is the basis of many other dishes such as
the following.
RICE AND VEGETABLE CASSEROLE
(See Index)
4
o COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
MEATLESS RICE ROAST
(Serves 6 or 7)
2 cups cooked white or 2 tablespoons ground
brown rice green pepper
2 cups ground whole 2 cups canned or stewed
wheat toast tomatoes, or 3 heaping
1 cup ground nuts tablespoons tomato
4 tablespoons chopped paste dissolved in 1 y
2
pimiento (may be cups hot vegetable
omitted) broth
% teaspoon sage 1 heaping tablespoon rice
4 beaten eggs polish, if desired
2 tablespoons ground 1 teaspoon salt
onion
Mix ingredients thoroughly. Place in greased loaf
pan and bake for one hour in a moderate oven. If
pimientos are omitted, add a little more onion and
green pepper as a substitute. This roast is a particular
delicacy when served with tomato gravy.
Here is the recipe:
TOMATO GRAVY
(Makes more than 1 cup)
2 tablespoons fat 1 cup tomato juice, or 1
1 tablespoon ground onion heaping tablespoon to-
3 tablespoons flour mato paste in 1 cup
Pinch dried thyme or hot water
basil Salt and pepper to taste
Melt the fat, add the onion, and cook gently for a
few minutes. Stir in the flour and continue stirring un-
til the mixture is well browned. Pour in the tomato
juice and thyme and cook until thick and smooth, stir-
ring constantly. Season with salt and pepper just be-
fore removing from stove.
RICE FOR DINNER 41
Rice provides the bulk for so many different meat-
less roasts that it is impossible to do more than suggest
some of the variations. You will make them up as you
go along, utilizing left-overs and whatever is in the
cupboard at the moment. The following recipe is only
a background for further elaboration.
SAVORY RICE ROAST
(Serves 6 or 7)
2 y
2
cups cooked rice 2 teaspoons Worcester-
2 tablespoons chopped shire sauce
onion 1 cup diced celery
1 clove garlic, finely 2 tablespoons fat
minced 1 egg, well beaten
1 teaspoon chopped 1 tablespoon chopped
parsley green pepper
Salt and pepper
Let onion, garlic, green pepper and celery simmer
in fat 5 minutes. Combine with all other ingredients
and blend thoroughly. The mixture should be just able
to hold its shape. If too dry, moisten with milk or vege-
table stock. Turn into a greased loaf pan and bake in a
moderate oven for 54 hour.
To this roast may be added any one of the follow-
ing, or a combination of them.
2 eggs, hard cooked and
chopped
Yx cup mushrooms,
cleaned and browned
in cooking oil
Left-over tomatoes,
eggplant, carrots, etc.
%
to Y
2
cup chopped nut
meats
Appropriate season-
ings, depending on
the ingredients used.
For example, basil
or thyme with to-
matoes
Taste the mixture often as you are putting it to-
gether, to decide just what more should be added, re-
membering that baking will emphasize individual fla-
vors. Serve it with a gravy to make it seem more like
a meat loaf and to give added tang.
STUFFED PEPPERS # 2
(Serves 6)
When green bell peppers are in season, this simple
recipe will furnish variety and color to your rice din-
ners.
6 green peppers
x
/
2
to 1 teaspoon curry
2 cups cooked rice powder, depending
4 tomatoes, chopped on your taste
1 small onion, chopped Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon cooking oil
Cut off tops and remove centers from peppers.
Cover with hot water and simmer 20 minutes. Mean-
while, brown onion in oil. To it add tomatoes and rice
and cook about 15 minutes. Add seasonings and re-
move from heat. Stuff peppers with this mixture. Cover
the tops with fine breadcrumbs, and set peppers in a
pan with about Yi inch of water in it. Bake in moder-
ate oven until crumbs brown. Serve on a platter with
a gravy passed separately if you wish. (See Chapter
Eleven.)
RICE MOLDS
As a change from boiled rice, try serving it in a ring
or as timbales. To do so, follow the procedure for
boiled rice, but drain it after only ten minutes of cook-
ing, and return it to the stove and finish cooking in 1 Yz
cups of vegetable stock, tomato juice, or 1 Yi cups of
water in which a heaping tablespoon of tomato paste
RICE FOR DINNER 43
has been dissolved. A teaspoon of curry powder in the
liquid gives a lively flavor, too. (Use one cup of raw
rice to each given amount of cooking liquid.) When
all the liquid has been absorbed, pack the rice into well
greased timbale pans or a ring mold, set in a pan of hot
water and bake for about ten minutes in a medium
oven. Either creamed or curried eggs are delicious
served with these molds.
RICE A LA CREOLE
(Serves 4 or 5)
1 cup rice 1 tomato, cut in small
2 tablespoons cooking oil pieces
or fat 1 onion, minced
About 6 mushrooms, J4 teaspoon saffron (op-
sliced tional)
2 tablespoons minced
gre*n pepper
Cook rice in boiling salted water until just done, and
drain. Saute onion and green pepper in oil 5 minutes,
add the mushrooms and cook two minutes. Then add
tomato, rice and seasoning. Cover and cook over very
low flame about 10 minutes to allow flavors to blend.
Risotto is a method of treating rice which is highly
regarded by many for the rich quality imparted to the
finished dish. The process is simply to wash and dry
the raw rice, fry it a delicate brown in butter, fat or
oil, and complete the cooking in a liquid. During fry-
ing the rice has to be stirred to prevent burning, but
after the liquid has been added, keep the spoon far
away. If the rice dries out before it is tender, add more
liquid. Always use a very low flame so the rice will not
burn.
44
COOKING WI THOUT MEAT
I
2
2
I
3
2
SAVORY RICE WITH HERBS
(Serves
cup raw rice
tablespoons cooking oil
onions, finely minced
clove garlic, finely
minced
cups stock or bouillon
teaspoons parsley,
chopped
4 o
r
5)
Yi teaspoon dried summer
savory or thyme
i teaspoon dried mar-
joram
chervil, if desired
Y
2
teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons white wine,
if desired
Cook onion and garlic in oil 5 minutes. Add rice
and cook, risotto fashion, until it turns light brown.
Mix in all seasoning ingredients and half the stock.
Cover and cook without stirring over low flame until
liquid evaporates. Then add remainder of stock and
cook until rice is tender. Serve immediately. A simple
tomato, celery or mushroom gravy will add fillip to
the dish.
BRAZILIAN RICE
(Serves 4 or 5)
Chili powder is an appropriate addition to rice com-
binations. This dish uses just enough to leave a warm
reminder after each mouthful.
cup raw rice
tablespoons fat or oil
medium onion, sliced
clove garlic, minced
teaspoons chili powder
cups canned or stewed
tomatoes, or 3 heaping
tablespoons tomato
paste dissolved in 2
cups hot water or
broth
tablespoon chopped
parsley or chervil
RICE FOR DINNER 45
Brown onion and garlic in fat or oil. Then add rice
and stir until slightly brown. Mix in chili powder and
heated tomatoes. Cover and cook slowly for about an
hour or until rice is very tender. Add hot water if
needed before rice is done.
SPANISH RICE
(Serves 4 or 5)
No discussion of rice would be complete without
paying due respects to Spanish Rice. Since no two
cooks make it in exactly the same fashion, this recipe
is not a rigid formula and the amount of any ingredient
may be changed to suit your personal taste.
1 cup raw rice 3 cups vegetable stock or
1 large onion, chopped bouillon
1 green pepper, chopped 2 tablespoons fat or oil
1 cup canned tomatoes, or 1 teaspoon salt
2 heaping tablespoons Dash cayenne pepper
tomato paste Pinch saffron (if desired)
Cook onion and green pepper in fat or oil 5 minutes.
Add rice, stirring until it is slightly brown. Then add
salt, cayenne, saffron and stock, and simmer over low
flame until stock is absorbed. Arrange alternate layers
of rice and tomatoes in greased casserole. Bake 15 min-
utes in moderate oven. (If tomato paste is used, add it
with the stock and simmer until moisture is absorbed
and rice is tender. Omit the oven treatment.)
MEXICAN RICE
(See Index)
CURRIED RICE
(Serves 4 or 5)
Rice and curry, intimate friends, are combined in
this dish which is particularly good with creamed eggs.
1 cup raw rice 1 to 2 tablespoons curry
2 tablespoons fat powder
1 tablespoon chopped 2 teaspoons salt
onion % teaspoon pepper
2
l
/
2
cups boiling water or
stock
Cook onion in fat until yellow. Stir in rice, cooking
until light brown. Season with curry powder, salt, and
pepper and add boiling water. Cover and cook slowly
until rice is tender. If necessary, add more boiling
water.
ITALIAN RICE
(Serves 4 or 5)
It is the combination of mushrooms and cheese in
this recipe which imparts a distinctive and wholly de-
licious flavor. If you prefer not to cook with wine, it
can be omitted without endangering success.
2 tablespoons olive or 2 tablespoons white wine,
cooking oil if desired
1 cup raw rice Salt and pepper
l
/
2
cup sliced mushrooms
1 clove garlic, halved soaked in 1 cup hot
2 cups vegetable stock or water
chicken bouillon Y
2
cup grated Parmesan
Pinch dried marjoram cheese
Cook onion and garlic in oil 5 minutes, and stir in
rice. When rice browns, remove garlic. Add stock,
RICE FOR DINNER 47
marjoram, wine, salt and pepper, and cook covered
over a low flame until liquid is absorbed. Then add
mushrooms and water they soaked in and continue
slow cooking until rice is tender. When done, mix
cheese in lightly and serve at once.
EAST INDIAN SAUCE
(Serves 6)
This is a particular favorite. The results are so good
that squandering a whole can of precious tomatoes is
entirely justified, and gourmets will be delighted.
However, if the can of tomatoes can' t be spared, use
from !4 to one six-ounce can of tomato paste dissolved
in 2 Yz cups of boiling water or vegetable broth. Omit
flour and cook like a risotto. Otherwise, East Indian
Sauce is served over a mound of fluffy rice, or in the
center of a rice ring.
1 large onion, chopped % teaspoon ground
1 clove garlic, minced fine cloves
1 No. 2 can tomatoes Dash cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons celery salt 1 cup sliced mushrooms,
1 teaspoon sugar boiled 5 minutes in
1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup water
1 teaspoon ginger 1 tablespoon fat or oil
1
1
/
2
tablespoons flour
Slowly cook tomatoes, onion, garlic, celery salt,
sugar, spices and cayenne for 30 minutes in saucepan.
In another pan melt fat and blend in flour, cooking
5 minutes. To this add mushrooms and water they
soaked in. Stir and cook until smooth and add to
tomato mixture. Cook slowly together another 15 min-
utes and serve with rice.
BAKED RICE AND CHEESE
(See Index)
RICE AND CHEESE SOUFFLfe
(See Index)
CHINESE EGGS
(See Index)
FRENCH RICE
(Serves 5 or 6)
Green peppers lend their distinction here.
1 cup raw rice 1 teaspoon salt
1 large onion, sliced thin 2 tablespoons cooking oil
2 green peppers,
l
/
2
cup canned tomatoes, or
chopped 3 fresh, or 1 table-
2 Y
2
cups stock or water spoon tomato paste
y
4
teaspoon pepper in Y
2
cup water
Fry onion and green peppers in oil for 5 minutes.
Add rice, and stir until it begins to turn color. Then
add tomatoes, seasonings, and stock. Simmer covered
and without stirring nnril rice is tender. If necessary,
add more stock.
RICE RING
(Serves 5 or 6)
This is a more complicated version of the rice ring,
and an especially tasty one. Fill the center with a green
or yellow vegetable, perhaps carrots cooked to perfec-
tion, and you will have in one dish a whole meal.
RICE FOR DINNER 49
1 cup raw rice 1 beaten egg
1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon mixed dried
1 large onion, minced herbs: marjoram,
1 clove garlic, minced basil, and thyme
Yi cup sliced mushrooms 2 tablespoons chopped
soaked in
l
/
2
cup boil- parsley
ing water % cup grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons cooking oil cheese
1
sweet green pepper,
chopped
Brown the rice in 1 tablespoon oil, and add 2 cups
boiling water and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook over
slow fire 20 minutes. Meanwhile, fry minced garlic,
onion, and green pepper in remaining tablespoon of oil
for 10 minutes. When rice is cooked, turn it into a
bowl and mix with all ingredients. Season with salt
and turn into greased ring meld. Bake in moderate
oven Yi hour, turn onto hot platter and fill with chosen
vegetable.
These recipes for rice by no means exhaust the pos-
sibilities for interesting combinations. From the sug-
gestions given, however, you should be able to invent
more of your own, never forgetting to vary the herbs
and seasonings to keep this grain food from becoming
monotonous.
VI
SPAGHETTI AND MACARONI
Do not be dismayed or incredulous if I claim for
spaghetti and her sister forms an exalted place in any
diet, for they can be thoroughly delicious if prepared
properly, and dressed with a variety of succulent
sauces. As the Italians have given these wheat products
the attention and careful preparation they deserve,
many of the recipes to follow will be reminiscent of
an Italian kitchen. It is these people, too, who make
their spaghetti in imaginative forms to please the eye
as well as the palate. If you would have variety, visit
an Italian grocer with his fascinating array of multi-
formed spaghetti.
Recently there have been innovations in the spa-
ghetti and macaroni field. Soybean flour is now used in
making a product that is reputed to be lower in starch.
So far, health food stores are the best sources of supply.
Another relatively new macaroni is Tenderoni, a popu-
lar brand that lives up to its claim of tenderness. And
it cooks in only seven minutes.
50
SPAGHETTI AND MACARONI 51
The shape of spaghetti or macaroni makes no differ-
ence in the method of cooking, though the finely cut
types do not take as much time. Always use a large
kettle of well salted, boiling water, introducing the
spaghetti only after the water is briskly bubbling.
Cooking time is from 10 to 20 minutes for most va-
rieties, but judge by the condition of the spaghetti
rather than by following a rigid time schedule. It
should be removed while there is still firmness in the
strings of paste. Watch it car efidly, and donH let it get
entirely soft. As soon as it is done, quickly drain it in
a colander, removing all the water. Dress it with sauce
or oil immediately and rush the steaming platter to the
table.
If you wish to save last minute confusion in the
kitchen, or are preparing some other dish that requires
attention just before the meal is served, the spaghetti
may be partially cooked ahead of time, drained in a
colander and rinsed thoroughly in cold, running water
and set aside until needed. Just before serving it is
placed in a colander again and immersed in rapidly
boiling water for half a minute, or until done, and
dressed immediately.
Let us begin spaghetti recipes with a simple one, suf-
ficient for serving four or five people, depending on
their appetites.
SPAGHETTI WITH ONIONS
y
4
pound spaghetti 4 tablespoons butter or
Yi cup chives, or % cup substitute
new onions, minced 6 tablespoons grated Par-
fine mesan or Romano
cheese
While spaghetti is cooking according to directions,
cut butter in small pieces and mince chives or onions.
Drain spaghetti well, put in hot saucepan which has a
tight cover, and add onions. Stir slightly before adding
pieces of butter and grated cheese. Cover pan and
shake it briskly up and down for about 5 minutes.
Then turn onto hot platter and serve immediately.
This whole process takes such a short time that every-
one should be ready to eat before the spaghetti is
dressed.
The following sauces are sufficient to dress % to
one pound of spaghetti, and to serve from four to six
people, depending on their appetites. To dress spa-
ghetti, spoon about
l
A of the sauce into a large platter.
Add half the spaghetti and spoon another third of the
sauce onto it. Then with large fork and spoon lift the
spaghetti carefully as though you were preparing a
green chopped salad. When sauce is mixed thoroughly,
add remainder of spaghetti and sauce, mix gently again.
A few spoonfuls of sauce should be saved to put on top
of the pile of dressed spaghetti. Serve immediately.
If you wish to skimp a little with the tomato paste,
or to make the sauce serve more than six people with-
out using more tomato, it can be done easily. The
method is not orthodox, but even if purists hold up
their hands in horror at the thought of putting flour
into Italian spaghetti sauce, the measure is justified as
a war-time economy. To the recipes as given, add one
heaping tablespoon of flour or rice polish mixed with
enough water to make a smooth paste. Also add a scant
cup of vegetable broth or water. If you are making
half the recipe, add just half the amount of flour and
extra stock. These sauces should be rather thin any-
way, never the consistency of thick white sauce. The
addition of more liquid only tones down the tomato
flavor, but some people prefer the milder sauce.
TOMATO SAUCE
4 cups canned or stewed 1 clove garlic, halved
tomatoes, or 1 6-ounce 1 teaspoon dried basil or
can tomato paste thyme
4 small onions, minced fine Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons fat or oil
Cook: onions and garlic in fat until yellow and re-
move garlic. Add tomatoes and basil. Season and stew
slowly for one hour. Dress hot, drained spaghetti. (If
tomato paste is used, mix it with three cups of hot
water or stock and reduce the cooking time to Yi
hour.)
MARINER'S SAUCE
For those who like a lively taste of garlic, this recipe
will be a special treat.
6 cloves garlic, halved
l
/
2
teaspoon dried marjo-
2 tablespoons cooking oil ram
l
/
2
bay leaf
1 6-ounce can tomato paste
l
/+ teaspoon dried thyme
3 cups vegetable broth or Salt and pepper
water Grated cheese or nut-
me
g
Cook garlic cloves slowly in oil in a saucepan. When
light brown, add minced onion and cook ten minutes
longer. Add all remaining ingredients and cook slowly
Vz hour, stirring often. When cooked, garlic can be
removed. Otherwise, it is just left at the side of each
plate during the meal. It isn't eaten! Dress the hot,
54
drained spaghetti and serve immediately with grated
cheese or nutmeg.
SPAGHETTI SAUCE
cloves garlic, minced fine
onion, minced
carrot, grated or
shredded
tablespoons minced
green pepper
i 6-ounce can tomato
paste
3 cups vegetable broth or
water
l
/
4
teaspoon dried thyme
% teaspoon dried mar-
joram
Salt and pepper
Slowly cook garlic, onion, carrot and green pepper
in oil for 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and
season. Stir well and cook for about 20 minutes. Dress
hot, drained spaghetti and serve with grated cheese.
HERB SAUCE
onion, minced
clove garlic, minced
cup chopped green pars-
ley
heaping tablespoon
mixed dried herbs:
thyme, marjoram and
basil
Y
2
cup white wine (may
be omitted)
Yi cup sliced mushrooms
3 cups vegetable broth or
water
1 6-ounce can tomato
paste
Pinch allspice, cloves,
and nutmeg
Salt and pepper
Cook onion and garlic in oil about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare mushrooms and boil 5 minutes in
the vegetable broth or hot water. Add them, with all
other ingredients, to onion and garlic. Cook slowly
about 54 hour. Serve with grated cheese, and you will
have a dish that is hard to surpass.
CHILI SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI
2 tablespoons cooking oil 3 cups vegetable broth or
or fat water
1 onion, minced 1 green pepper, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon chili powder, or
*4 cup chopped parsley more to taste
1 6-ounce can tomato 1 teaspoon salt
paste Pepper
Cook onion and garlic in oil 10 minutes. Add re-
maining ingredients and cook slowly for about Yz
hour. Dress hot, drained spaghetti and serve immedi-
ately.
MEXICAN SPAGHETTI
(Serves 5 or 6)
Along our Southern border this method of prepar-
ing spaghetti is popular.
l
/
2
teaspoon salt
1 large onion, chopped 1 chili pepper, or y
2
tea-
Yi pound spaghetti spoon chili powder
z cups stewed or canned Dash cayenne pepper
tomatoes 1
1
/
2
cups boiling water
Heat fat in large saucepan, and break spaghetti in
two-inch lengths. Cook spaghetti and onion slowly in
fat until light brown. Add tomatoes and seasonings and
continue slow cooking until tomatoes break up. Then
add boiling water and simmer until water is absorbed
and spaghetti is tender. If necessary, add more hot
water.
MUSHROOM CASSEROLE
(Serves 6)
% pound mushrooms, i small onion, minced or
sliced sliced thin
i cup boiling water 2 tablespoons flour
Yi pound noodles, any 2 tablespoons fat or oil
width 1 cup milk
Salt and pepper
Cover sliced mushrooms with boiling water and
simmer 5 minutesno more. Meanwhile, set the noo-
dles to boiling in plenty of salted water. In a saucepan,
melt the fat and cook onions until soft. Mix in flour and
cook 5 minutes. To this, gradually add the milk, stir-
ring until you have a smooth whke sauce. Then add
the mushrooms with the water they cooked in and
continue cooking a few minutes. Season, and pour the
sauce over a casserole filled with the cooked noodles.
Cover and bake in a moderate oven 15 to 20 minutes.
NOODLES WITH GREEN BEANS
(Serves 6)
Although beans are called for in this dish, other veg-
etables may be substituted. It is a handy recipe for
using up a cup or two of cooked vegetables, and you
will have a hearty main dish to boot. The amount of
green peppers may be reduced to suit either your purse
or taste.
2 cups stewed or canned 2 tablespoons fat
tomatoes Salt and pepper
3 green peppers
l
/
2
pound noodles, cooked
1 to 2 cups cooked string
beans
After removing seeds and veins, chop the green pep-
pers and fry in fat for 10 minutes. If desired, set aside
a portion of the chopped pepper to sprinkle over top
of casserole later. Then add tomatoes and beans to
peppers and season. Simmer 5 or 10 minutes longer.
Fill casserole with cooked noodles, make a depression
in the center, and fill with bean mixture. Sprinkle top
with any chopped green pepper you have saved. Un-
less cooked noodles are piping hot, put casserole in
moderate oven for a few minutes to heat thoroughly.
MACARONI WITH CHEESE AND TOMATOES
(See Index)
MACARONI LOAF
(Serves 6)
This loaf will prove as versatile as the rice roasts
described in Chapter Five. The recipe is not a strict
formula, only a suggestion of what can be done to
make a dinner dish out of very little. The eggs help to
knit the whole together. If you reduce their number,
another binding agent must be used, like flour or rice
polish.
1 cup uncooked macaroni 1 tablespoon minced pars-
1 teaspoon onion juice ley
3 eggs, beaten i tablespoon minced eel-
i cup milk, heated ery leaves, or 1 tea-
2 tablespoons green pep- spoon celery salt
per, finely chopped 1 cup shredded American
1 cup bread crumbs cheese
Salt and pepper
Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until tender.
Drain and chop. Mix thoroughly with all other in-
gredients and season. Turn into greased loaf tin and
set in a pan of hot water. Bake a half hour or longer in
a moderate oven. Serve with a gravy, preferably to-
mato. (See Chapter Eleven) These ingredients may
also be turned into a greased ring mold and the center
filled with a vegetable or creamed eggs.
CHEESE CAKES OVER SPAGHETTI
(See Index)
VII
CHEESE FOR MEATLESS DAYS
Mellow or sharp or in between, cheese is a constant
source of gastronomic pleasure, and it contains the
same high quality protein that meat does. Most Ameri-
can made cheese, says the Department of Agriculture,
is of the Cheddar variety, made from whole milk and
therefore a good source of the illusive vitamin A. Like
milk, it should always be stored, well-covered, in the
refrigerator.
There are a few general rules to follow in cooking
with cheese that will help you to preserve the maxi-
mum food value and to obtain smooth texture.
Cheese should be heated slowly and the fat allowed
to melt and mix evenly with any other ingredients.
Maintain this low temperature throughout the entire
cooking process, either by baking in a slow oven or by
cooking over water, to keep the cheese from curdling
or becoming leathery. You will find cheese blends
more easily if it has first been grated or cut into small
pieces and this also reduces the cooking time.
To vary your servings of cheese, experiment with
59
different kinds. Smoked cheese, for instance, adds a
special tang to baked macaroni, and it melts easily, too.
The best cheese for grating is either Parmesan or Ro-
mano, and for best results, grate it yourself. Ready-
grated cheese is more convenient, but it loses its flavor
quickly and is a disappointment compared to the
home-grated variety.
It's up to you to keep your family interested in meat-
less meals so don't let this important food become
monotonous. Serve it many ways, and serve many
kinds.
COTTAGE CHEESE LOAF
(Serves 6)
The most primitive form of cheese is the curd,
which is called cottage cheese. Many people prefer it
plain, but it combines easily with other foods to make
the main dish of a meal.
Yi pound cottage cheese Y
2
cup chopped peanuts or
2 eggs, beaten walnuts, or 2 heaping
$4 teaspoon salt tablespoons peanut
Pepper butter
1 teaspoon Worcester- 1 cup bread crumbs
shire sauce 2 cups milk
Y
2
teaspoon dried sage
Stir cottage cheese, seasonings, chopped nuts and
bread crumbs into beaten eggs. Add milk and mix
thoroughly. Pour into greased baking dish, set in a
pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven for
about 40 minutes, or until the mixture has set. Serve
with a tomato or mushroom gravy. (See Chapter
Eleven.)
CHEESE FOR MEATLESS DAYS 61
CHEESE AND NUT LOAF
(Serves 6)
l
/z pound American 4 tablespoons minced
cheese onion
1 cup chopped walnuts 2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 cups soft bread crumbs Salt and pepper
1
1
/
3
cups milk
l
/i teaspoon dried mar-
2 eggs, beaten joram
2 tablespoons cooking
oil or fat
Cut cheese into small pieces and mix with chopped
nuts, bread crumbs, milk and beaten eggs. Set aside
while onion is fried in oil to a golden brown. Combine
with first mixture and add other ingredients, stirring
well. Bake in greased casserole or loaf pan set in hot
water for 40 to 50 minutes at 375 degrees. This loaf,
also, should be served with a gravy, preferably tomato.
WELSH RAREBIT
(Serves 6)
The familiar rarebit is a standard cheese dish which
can be varied easily by the addition of a few seasoning
ingredients. This is only one basic recipe:
2 tablespoons fat Pepper
2 tablespoons flour
l
/
2
teaspoon mustard
2 cups milk 54 to 1 pound sharp cheese,
1 teaspoon salt shaved or cut fine
In the top of a double boiler, make a white sauce of
the first 6 ingredients. When well blended, add cheese,
cooking and stirring until cheese is melted and the mix-
ture thick and smooth. Serve over crisp saltines or
toast.
For variety add one of the following, or a combina-
tion of several:
y
2
cup chopped olives
i or 2 eggs, slightly beaten (Add after cheese has melted
and continue cooking until mixture has thickened)
%
/
2
onion, minced fine (Cook in fat before flour has been
added in making a white sauce roux)
l
/
2
sweet green pepper (Add like onion)
l
/
t
cup chopped celery (Add like onion)
i teaspoon Worcestershire or soy sauce
l
/
t
teaspoon dried marjoram or thyme
The taste may also be changed slightly by using dif-
ferent kinds of cheese such as Edam, pineapple, Swiss
*Parmesan, or smoked.
POACHED EGG RAREBIT
(6 servings)
l
A
Vz
I
2
I
I
to
l
/z pound sharp
cheese
medium onion, minced
fine
clove garlic, halved
or fat
generous tablespoon
flour
teaspoon Worcester-
shire or soy sauce
Yi
i
ram
can condensed tomato
soup mixed with %.
cup milk, or i heap-
ing tablespoon to-
mato paste mixed
with i cup milk
Salt and pepper
6 eggs
6 slices toast
Saute onions and garlic in oil 5 minutes. Remove
garlic and add tomato soup and milk (or paste and
milk). When hot, stir in cut-up cheese. Continue stir-
ring until cheese is melted. (If tomato paste is used,
the mixture may not be thick enough. In that case add
a tablespoon of flour or rice polish, mixed to a paste
in a little water.) Add soy sauce, seasoning and marjo-
ram. Place poached eggs on toast and pour sauce
around eggs. Plain rarebit may be served the same way.
TOMATO RAREBIT
(Serves 4 or 5)
Yi pound cheese 1 6-ounce can tomato
2 tablespoons fat or oil paste dissolved in 2
1 teaspoon prepared mus- cups hot water, or 1
tard No. 2 can tomatoes
1 teaspoon Worcester- Y
2
green pepper, chopped
shire or soy sauce Dash cayenne pepper
2 small onions, minced 54 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Saute onions and green pepper in fat. Add tomato
mixture and simmer from 20 to 30 minutes. Then add
remainder of ingredients, and cheese cut into small
pieces. Stir constantly until cheese is melted and serve
immediately over saltines or crisp toast. Potato chips
or French fries and pickles are agreeable side dishes.
MEXICAN RAREBIT
(Serves 4 or 5)
Here is a rarebit with a different accent.
Y
2
tablespoon fat Y
2
cup stewed or canned
l
/
2
green pepper, chopped tomatoes, or 1 heap-
l
/
2
pound cheese, shaved or ing teaspoon tomato
cut fine paste
1 egg, beaten
l
/
2
cup bread crumbs
1 cup corn, canned or cut % teaspoon wild marjo-
from the cob ram
54 teaspoon salt
Melt fat in top of double boiler over direct heat, and
cook chopped pepper in it until softened. Set over hot
water, add cheese and stir until cheese melts. To beaten
cgg^ add salt and corn and stir into cheese mixture. (If
fresh corn is used, it may be necessary to add
l
A cup
thin white sauce.) Then add tomatoes and crumbs.
When heated thoroughly, serve over toast or saltines.
So much for rarebits.
CHEESE SOUFFLE WITH SAUCE
(Serves 4 or 5)
In preparing this souffle, first make 2 cups of white
sauce to be used in both the souffle and the tomato
sauce which accompanies it. Use 2 tablespoons of flour
to each cup of milk to achieve the proper consistency
for both recipes.
1 cup chopped or shaved 1 teaspoon Worcester-
cheese shire sauce or soy
3 eggs, separated sauce
1 cup white sauce Salt and pepper
Heat white sauce in top of double boiler and add to
it the cheese and beaten egg yolks. Stir until cheese
melts and mixture is smooth. Fold in stiffly beaten egg
whites and pour into greased baking dish or individual
molds set in hot water. Bake at 375 degrees about 15
minutes, or until eggs are set. Serve immediately, as
the souffle begins to fall when removed from oven.
The accompanying sauce should be prepared as soon
as the souffle is in the oven so it will be ready at the
same time.
TOMATO CREAM SAUCE
(Makes 1Y
2
cups)
1 cup white sauce 54 teaspoon dried basil
2 tablespoons tomato paste 54 bay leaf
in 54 cup water or y
A
teaspoon dried thyme
stock
l
/
2
1 onion, minced Salt to taste
1 heaping teaspoon fat or
oil
Cook onion in fat until yellow. Add white sauce
and, when heated, mix in remaining ingredients, season
to taste, and serve.
Keep this sauce in mind when you try any of the
next four dishes. It is a natural companion for aU of
them.
BAKED RICE AND CHEESE
(Serves 6)
3 cups cooked rice 2 tablespoons butter or
J4 teaspoon salt margarine, if desired
1 cup milk Fine bread crumbs
2 cups cut-up cheese Dash cayenne pepper
Put a layer of cooked rice in a greased baking dish,
cover with a layer of cheese, and season with salt and
cayenne. Continue adding layers until the dish is al-
most full. Add enough milk to come half way to the
top of the rice. Cover with crumbs, dot with butter
(if you have it!), and bake in a moderate oven until
the crumbs brown.
RICE AND CHEESE SOUFFLfi
(Serves 6)
2 cups cooked rice 54 cup very sharp cheese,
2 tablespoons flour or i cup cut-up
2 tablespoons fat or oil American cheese
54 cup milk, heated 3 eggs, separated
Salt and cayenne pep-
per
Melt fat in top of double boiler and cook flour in it
5 minutes. Add milk gradually and cook over hot
water until smooth and thick. Add well-beaten egg
yolks and rice. Cook another 5 minutes before adding
cheese. Stir until cheese melts, and then season. Fold
in stiffly beaten egg whites and pour into greased cas-
serole. Set in pan of hot water and bake at 375 degrees
about 20 minutes.
CHEESE TIMBALES
Follow recipe for Cheese Souffle or Rice and Cheese
Souffle, pouring batter into greased timbale molds or
muffin tins. When baked, arrange on platter and pour
Tomato Cream Sauce over them.
POLENTA WITH CHEESE
(Serves 4 or 5)
1 cup corn meal 1 teaspoon salt
4 cups boiling water 54 cup grated cheese
Pour one cup of boiling water over corn meal and
let stand until it swells, then add the rest of the water,
salted. Cook over direct flame for 5 minutes, stirring
constantly. Turn into a greased baking dish or ring
mold and bake at 300 degrees for t wo hours. Just be-
fore it is done, stir in cheese and return to oven until
cheese melts. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce, or fill
the ring with vegetables.
VEGETABLE AND CHEESE CASSEROLE
If it's 2 cups of left-over vegetables you have, and
six or seven people to serve, follow these directions for
a hearty dinner or supper dish.
1Y
2
cups shaved or
chopped American
cheese
Salt and pepper
154 cups scalded milk
1 cup bread crumbs
l
/
4
cup melted butter or
substitute
1 tablespoon parsley,
chopped
3 tablespoons onion,
chopped
54 cup mushrooms, sliced
teaspoon summer sa-
vory
4 beaten eggs
2 cups cooked vege-
tables (peas, beans,
corn, etc.)
Mix all ingredients together, season and pour into
greased casserole. Set dish in hot water and bake in a
slow oven for about 54 hour or until firm.
CHEESE RING
(Serves 4 or 5)
4 tablespoons fat
5 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
Yi teaspoon salt
154 cups cut-up American
cheese
2 tablespoons chopped
green pepper
l
A
tablespoons chopped
celery
tablespoons minced
onion
teaspoon prepared mus-
tard
eggs, beaten separately
Make a roux of fat and flour. When blended, add
milk and cook until creamy. Add cheese and season-
ings and stir until cheese melts. Add all other ingredi-
ents, mixing lightly. Pour into greased ring mold and
set in pan of hot water. Bake about 35 minutes at 350
degrees. Unmold carefully, and serve with the chosen
creamed vegetable.
MACARONI WITH CHEESE AND TOMATOES
(Serves 5 or 6)
2 54 cups canned or stewed
l
/
2
pound macaroni
tomatoes, or 6 heap-
l
/
2
pound cheese, prefera-
ing tablespoons to- bly sharp
mato paste in 2 cups Salt and pepper
hot water
While macaroni is boiling in salted water, heat the
tomatoes in a saucepan and add the cheese after cut-
ting it into small pieces. Heat until cheese is melted,
stirring occasionally to prevent sticking or burning.
Mix the macaroni and sauce in a casserole, cut more
cheese, in slivers, over the top, and bake uncovered in
moderate oven until cheese begins to brown.
MACARONI LOAF
(See Index)
BOSTON ROAST
(See Index)
CHEESE CAKES OVER SPAGHETTI
(Serves 6 to 8)
A crisp green salad is the only addition necessary
to make the meal complete.
2 cups soft bread crumbs
1 cup grated cheese
1 egg, beaten
2 54 cups water
oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 6-ounce can tomato
paste
1 teaspoon salt
54 teaspoon dried thyme
or basil
Y
2
pound spaghetti,
cooked and seasoned
with grated cheese
Combine first three ingredients with 54 cup water.
Form into eight flat cakes and fry in hot cooking oil
until brown on both sides. Set cakes aside and cook
garlic in remaining oil until brown. Add tomato paste,
salt and 2 cups water. Cook to boiling point before
putting cheese cakes into this sauce. Reduce heat very
low, cover, and cook for 54 hour, adding more water
if necessary. Arrange cooked and seasoned spaghetti
on a hot platter, put cheese cakes on top, and cover all
with tomato sauce.
Before leaving cheese, a reminder that toasted cheese
sandwiches are hard to surpass as the main attraction
at luncheon or supper. Either open-faced or toasted
with the cheese inside, they are appropriately accom-
panied by a tossed green salad for a well-balanced,
delicious meal.
VI I I
THE LEGUME FAMI LY
Dried legumes are such an important source of pro-
teins to replace meat that they should be purchased
occasionally to serve with vegetarian meals. Mild them-
selves, they must be highly seasoned for the best re-
sults. Because the supply is limited, careful preparation
is necessary to avoid waste.
Soybeans rank first among body-building legumes
because they are richer in protein and fat than more
common beans and because their protein is more read-
ily utilized by the body. If you can't get them at your
regular grocer, try a health food store.
Since these beans are most frequently available dried,
any recipes using them will call for this variety. Be-
sides, in dried form all beans have a more concen-
trated protein supply than when fresh and are thus a
better meat substitute.
To prepare dried soys, pick over the beans, discard
the bad ones, and soak overnight in enough water to
cover. In the morning drain off the water and cover
70
THE LEGUME FAMILY 71
again with fresh. Allow them to simmer (not boil)
about two hours. With a pressure cooker, this time is
reduced to between 3 5 and 40 minutes. The beans are
then ready for further treatment before reaching the
table.
SOYBEAN LOAF
(Serves 4 or 5)
Here is an example of what can be done with soy-
beans, though other dried beans may be substituted.
1 cup dried soybeans, or 4 tablespoons chopped
2 54 cups left-over green pepper
baked beans 4 tablespoons flour
i4 cup bacon drippings or 2 cups milk
fat 1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons chopped 54 teaspoon dried summer
onion savory
1 cup dry bread crumbs
Cook beans as directed and drain; mash, if desired.
In bacon drippings or fat, cook chopped onion and
green pepper for at least 5 minutes. Add flour and cook
a few minutes before adding milk gradually with salt
and summer savory. Stir and cook to the boiling point,
then add beans and pour the whole mixture into a
greased loaf pan or casserole. Top with bread crumbs,
butter or margarine if you wish and bake in a moder-
ate oven for 30 minutes. When crumbs are browned,
remove and serve with a prepared tomato sauce like
ketchup or chili sauce. If you prefer, make your own
sauce, choosing one of the well seasoned recipes from
Chapter Eleven.
BAKED BEANS
(Serves 6 to 8)
i pint beans (soy or pea 2 tablespoons molasses
beans) 1 teaspoon mustard
1 tablespoon salt K cup fat or bacon drip-
1 onion, chopped P^gs
Cook beans as directed until tender and place in bak-
ing dish. Mix molasses, mustard and salt in cup and
fill with hot water, blending thoroughly. Stir melted
fat and chopped onion into beans and pour in molasses
mixture. Add water to cover and bake at 300 degrees
for 6 or 8 hours. Except for last hour, keep add-
ing water to cover.
If you are not well acquainted with the dried legume
group, you may be surprised at the range of selection.
Among the beans there are navy, kidney, Great North-
ern, fave, California white, pinto, small red, cranberry,
lima and pink. Groceries catering to a Spanish, Mexi-
can or Italian clientele sometimes have varieties not
carried in other stores.
As dried peas, beans and lentils are prepared and
served much like soybeans, the directions for cooking
soys may be followed with good results, with one ex-
ception: unless you are preparing a legume of strong
flavor, cook in the soaking water to save minerals and
vitamins. To keep the skins from toughening, use soft
water when possible. One cup of dried peas or beans
yields from two to three cups when cooked.
Let's see what else can be done with these money
savers.
RED BEANS WI TH SAUCE
(Serves 6)
154 cup red kidney beans you have it)
154 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons olive or
1 chopped onion cooking oil
1 clove garlic, chopped 2 green onions, with tops
fine 54
CU
P chopped green
54 teaspoon cumin seed (if parsley
Soak beans overnight. Before cooking, drain and add
from four to five cups fresh water. Add salt, chopped
onion, chopped garlic and cumin seed. Cook slowly
until very tender, about two hours. By this time the
water should be almost gone. Mix 3 tablespoons olive
oil, chopped green onions with tops and chopped pars-
ley with beans. Add more salt if needed, and set in oven
for 15 to 20 minutes before serving with the following
sauce:
BAKED BEAN SAUCE
(Makes 2 or more cups)
2 tablespoons cooking oil 54 cup vegetable stock or
1 small onion, chopped bouillon
1 small green pepper, 1 6-ounce can tomato
chopped paste mixed with 2 54
1 clove garlic, chopped cups water, or 2 cups
2 teaspoons chili powder stewed tomatoes
Salt and pepper
Cook onion, green pepper, and garlic in oil for 10
minutes. Add remainder of ingredients, season to taste,
and simmer about an hour, stirring occasionally to pre-
vent any sticking. The sauce may be mixed in with the
beans or served separately at the table.
74 COOKING WI THOUT MEAT
BOSTON ROAST
(Serves 6)
Cheese gives this roast a different accent.
i y
2
cups dried kidney 3 tablespoons chopped
beans onion
3 tablespoons salt 1 cup bread crumbs
1 to 2 cups grated cheese 54 cup milk
Soak beans 24 hours. Cook until soft in water with
3 tablespoons salt. Drain and mash or chop the beans.
Mix in onion, cheese, crumbs and enough milk to
moisten. Add more salt if necessary and put in greased
loaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes.
SPANISH SAUCE
(Makes 154 to 2 cups)
The Baked Bean Sauce, or this one, is suitable for
serving with the Boston Roast.
i large onion 4 tablespoons hot water or
1 green pepper, seeded broth
2 tablespoons olive or Dash Tabasco or cay-
cooking oil enne pepper
2 large ripe tomatoes, or 3 1 teaspoon vinegar
small Salt and pepper
2 teaspoons minced parsley
Slice onion and green pepper in very thin rings. Fry
together slowly in oil. When tender, add unpeeled,
thinly sliced tomatoes, salt, pepper and parsley. Cook
very gently for 10 minutes, keeping tomato slices
whole. Add a little hot water or broth, a dash of Ta-
basco, and the vinegar. Slide into hot sauce dish with-
out breaking tomato slices or onion rings.
CURRIED BEANS
(Serves 6 to 8)
2 cups kidney beans cooking oil
1 large onion, chopped 1 tablespoon sugar
1 tart apple, chopped 2 teaspoons curry powder
1 clove garlic, chopped 1 cup canned or stewed to-
Pinch thyme matoes, or 2 table-
Salt and cayenne pepper spoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons olive or with 1 cup water
Soak beans overnight and drain thoroughly. Cover
with 2 quarts of boiling water and 2 teaspoons salt.
Cook about two hours, or until tender. Just before
beans are done, fry onion, garlic and apple in oil 5 min-
utes. Then add salt and a dash of cayenne, sugar and
tomatoes. When well blended, add curry powder. Mix
with cooked, drained beans and fill baking dish. Add a
little bean broth and save the rest to add if beans get
too dry. Bake in slow oven from three to four hours,
covered.
INDIAN EGGS
(See Index)
LIMA BEAN ROAST
(Serves 6)
If your family likes the flavor of peanuts in a bean
roast, this recipe will be a favorite. They may be
omitted, however, with results surprisingly good.
7<S
%
i cup roasted shelled pea-
nuts, or 3 tablespoons
peanut butter
2 cups seasoned mashed
potatoes
2 cups cooked lima beans
(fresh, canned or
dried)
Grind peanuts very fine, and mix with all other in-
gredients thoroughly. Bake in a moderate oven until
top browns, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve with a tomato
sauce, or Tomato Rarebit (See Index).
cup milk
cggj beaten
teaspoon salt
Paprika
teaspoon onion juice, or
1 tablespoon finely
minced onion
BEAN STEW
(Serves
54 pound dried lima or
fave beans
1 clove garlic, minced
3 onions, minced
2 tablespoons olive or
cooking oil
54 cup tomato juice, or 1
teaspoon tomato
paste dissolved in y
s
cup water or broth
5 or 6)
2 cups bean broth
2 bouillon cubes
54 teaspoon dried summer
savory
Y
4
ram
l
/
2
teaspoon chili powder,
if desired
1 cup chopped cabbage
Salt
Soak and cook beans as directed. Drain and save
bean broth. In frying pan cook minced onion and garlic
in oil for 10 minutes. To this add tomato juice and stir
well. Dissolve 2 bouillon cubes in 2 cups of bean broth,
and add to ingredients in frying pan with herbs and
seasonings. Cook about 10 minutes before adding this
sauce to drained beans. Cover bean kettle and cook
slowly for one hour, stirring frequently. Then add
cabbage and cook another hour.
PEA TIMBALES
(Serves 4 to 6)
1 cup dried peas 1 teaspoon minced fresh
2 eggs, beaten mint, or 54 teaspoon
54 teaspoon salt dried
2 tablespoons cooking oil 1 teaspoon minced parsley
1 teaspoon sugar Pepper
1 teaspoon finely minced
onion
Soak peas overnight. Leaving only enough water to
cover, cook with salt, sugar and onion until peas are
tender. Skim off any skins that rise to the surface, drain,
and mash thoroughly. Add the eggs, seasonings, oil,
mint and parsley. Put mixture in buttered timbale
molds or muffin tins. Set in pan of hot water and bake
in moderate oven until firm. Serve with a creamed
vegetable or a tomato sauce. (For sauce, see Chapter
Eleven.)
LIMA BEAN TIMBALES
(Serves 4 or 5)
One last, simple recipe for dried beans. Although the
example given uses limas, other beans or peas may be
substituted, and the herbs varied. This is a good way to
use left-overs, but because the molds are apt to be
rather dry, they should always be served with a gravy
or sauce.
1 cup dried lima beans, or 3 eggs, beaten
3 cups cooked beans 54 teaspoon sage
of any kind Salt and pepper
% cup bread crumbs
Cook beans as usual. When well done, drain and
mash. Add remaining ingredients, mix well, and fill
greased timbale molds or muffin tins. Bake in moderate
oven until firm, about 30 or 40 minutes. Any tomato
sauce or gravy is suitable for these timbales, whether
flavored with hot chili powder or the mildest of season-
ings.
5 * * *
I X
EGG DI SHES
Every additional egg in the diet means added food
value and extra "protection," according to the United
States Bureau of Home Economics. Add to that recom-
mendation the delicate flavor of carefully prepared
fresh eggs and you have ample reason to esteem them
highly. They are a food bargain even at war-time price
levels, and capable of infinite variety. So use your full
quota.
A few simple precautions will enable you to serve
light, tender egg dishes at the dinner table to please
your family and friends.
First, always keep eggs stored in a cool place or in
the refrigerator, far away from highly scented food.
In spite of their protective shell, eggs absorb odors
readily, and at room temperature soon lose their fresh-
ness.
When cooking eggs, use moderate, even heat to
prevent their becoming leathery. This applies to eggs
cooked in the shell as well as custards, souffles or ome-
lets. In fact, "boiled egg" is a misleading term, for the
79
water should be kept at a temperature just under boil-
ing, and the eggs allowed to simmer gently if you want
them to be tender, though firm.
To avoid toughness w
r
hen baking custards or souf-
fles, set the baking dish in a pan of hot water and keep
the oven temperature moderate, about 350 degrees.
Egg mixtures that are prepared over a burner need the
same gentle heat, so cook them in the top of a double
boiler, unless you are using a heavy-bottomed omelet
pan. If possible, this pan should be used for nothing
else, and wiped clean after each using with a dry cloth.
Your care in following these elementary rules will
be rewarded by the delicacy of each egg dish. Of
course, seasoning mustn't be overlooked, but even
herbs and condiments, skillfully applied, only partially
compensate for eggs of rubbery consistency.
Don't be alarmed if recipes in this chapter seem to
call for a disproportionate amount of precious canned
tomatoes. Since tomatoes and eggs are ready mixers,
their frequent combination in cooking is inevitable.
This situation will be alleviated wherever possible by
the use of inexpensive tomato paste instead of whole
canned tomatoes, and during the summer fresh toma-
toes will make the use of the canned variety unneces-
sary. For that reason, alternative ingredients are given
to make the recipes practical throughout the year. Un-
fortunately, some sauces must be made from whole
tomatoes, whether canned or fresh, to obtain the proper
consistency. Tomato paste has to be diluted ior the
right flavor, and this makes the resulting sauce too thin
for use over egg dishes. However, the two recipes de-
scribed below can be transformed into spaghetti sauce
by substituting one 6-ounce can of tomato paste diluted
with three cups of water or vegetable stock for the
whole tomatoes. In fact, most of these sauce recipes
EGG DISHES 81
can be changed and modified for convenience, and
made to serve more than one purpose.
MEXICAN TOMATO SAUCE
(Makes about 2 cups)
Any plain omelet or souffle is a suitable dinner dish
when served with a flourish. Prepare the eggs accord-
ing to your favorite recipe with no seasoning but salt
and pepper. This sauce is highly regarded in my own
household and will dress enough omelet or souffle for
5 to 6 servings.
2 tablespoons fat or oil 2 cups canned or
1 onion, chopped fine stewed
1 chili pepper, cut in half 1 sweet green pepper,
(may be omitted) minced
1 clove garlic, halved 1 teaspoon Worcester-
1 teaspoon dried wild mar- shire sauce
joram 54 teaspoon celery salt
4 large tomatoes, peeled 1 teaspoon chili powder
and cut in pieces, or
Cook pepper, garlic and onion in oil 5 minutes.
Remove garMe and add tomatoes, cooking about 15
minutes longer. Finally, add herbs and seasoning and
cook until all is well blended. Without straining, pour
over fluffv souffle or omelet. This sauce is excellent
with rice, too.
OMELET SAUCE
(Makes 2 or more cups)
Very similar in consistency to the previous sauce, the
following ingredients result in a milder taste. A word
here about canned pimiento. If you are paying more
attention to the point value of food than its monetary
cost, this vegetable is a relatively cheap flavoring in-
gredient. If your food dollars are limited, however, it
would be better to stay away from canned pimientos
and substitute sweet green peppers. The dish will not
be impaired by the omission.
4 large tomatoes, peeled i canned pimiento, cut in
and cut in pieces, or 2 small pieces
cups canned 54 teaspoon dried basil
2 tablespoons fat or cook- 54 teaspoon dried thyme
ing oil 1 teaspoon salt
1 large onion, minced Few grains cayenne
54 sweet green pepper, P
e
PP
er
minced Paprika
1 clove garlic, halved
Cook onion, green pepper and garlic in oil until soft.
Remove garlic and add tomatoes, herbs and pimiento.
Cook about 15 minutes, season, and pour over omelet.
A half cup of chopped celery may be added also.
SPINACH SOUFFLfi WITH MARJORAM
(See Index)
SPINACH OMELET
(Serves 5 or 6)
1 pound spinach 54 teaspoon dried herb
1 small onion, minced fine (marjoram, basil,
1 tablespoon butter or sub- thyme, or tarragon),
stitute or 1 teaspoon fresh
6 eggs, beaten minced sorrel
Salt and pepper
Pick over spinach and wash in several waters. (If
left to stand 10 minutes in warm water, the dirt will
EGG DISHES 83
loosen easily.) Cook in saucepan with no water except
what clings to the leaves. Drain, chop, and mix with
onion. Season with salt and pepper. Then beat eggs,
season, and add minced herb. Make omelet in greased
frying pan and as eggs stiffen fold spinach mixture in
center. Serve with a simple mushroom or tomato gravy.
(See Chapter Eleven.)
SCRAMBLED BEANS
(4 servings)
1 pint string beans, or 154 * teaspoon tomato paste
cups peas mixed with 2 table-
1 onion, minced fine spoons rich milk
3 eggs, beaten Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon butter or sub- Pinch dried summer sa-
stitute vory
Clean beans, cut in small pieces, and cook in just
enough boiling, salted water to cover. In frying pan,
melt butter (or substitute) and fry minced onion until
it is yellow. Then add tomato paste, milk and savory.
After cooking 5 minutes, add beans. In another pan,
scramble the well beaten eggs and when almost done
add the string bean mixture and stir well.
MEXICAN SCRAMBLED EGGS
(Serves 5 or 6)
3 sweet green peppers 1 cup water
1 tablespoon olive or Salt and pepper
vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter or
54 small onion, minced fine substitute
1 clove garlic, minced 4 eggs, slightly beaten
54 cup rice
Remove seeds from peppers and boil 2 minutes.
Drain and chop fine. Put peppers, onions and minced
garlic in omelet pan with olive oil and cook until
slightly browned. Add rice and water, cover, and cook
slowly until rice is tender and liquid absorbed. Season
with salt. Mix in butter until it melts, and pour in beaten
eggs. Scramble. Add pepper and more salt if needed
and serve on a platter immediately.
ITALIAN EGGS
(Serves 5 or 6)
1 young, green squash, or 54 teaspoon dried mar jo-
summer squash ram
2 tablespoons cooking oil 6 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon minced chives 6 tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon minced parsley 1 teaspoon salt
Pepper and paprika
Slice squash in thin rounds. Saute with chives, pars-
ley, and marjoram in cooking oil until squash is tender,
about eight minutes. Add salt, pepper, and milk to
beaten eggs, continue beating a minute longer, and
pour over the squash mixture. When eggs begin to set,
insert spatula under them and let uncooked part run
underneath until done. Sprinkle with paprika and
served immediately.
EGG FOO YOUNG
(Serves 6 or 7)
If you have a passion for the delicate flavors of bean
sprouts, water chestnuts and bamboo shoots, they are
to be had by the can in many regular groceries. A 1 o 54 -
ounce can is not terribly extravagant in ration points
EGG DISHES 85
when it is used combined with other ingredients, as
here.
6 eggs, well beaten chestnuts and bam-
54 cup sliced mushrooms boo shoots)
Cooking oil or fat
l
/
2
cup finely minced
Salt and pepper onions
1 can mixed vegetables Soy sauce
(bean sprouts, water
Chop water chestnuts and bamboo shoots. Let mush-
rooms simmer 5 minutes in boiling water, drain and
save the stock for future use. Season beaten eggs, add
all chopped ingredients and bean sprouts, mixing
thoroughly. Heat oil or fat in omelet pan and cook
a cupful of the egg mixture at a time. Brown on one
side before turning over. Serve the little egg cakes on
a platter and pass soy sauce for seasoning. Or, to make
your own soy sauce gravy, use one cup of mush-
room stock to a tablespoon each of flour and fat. Make
a roux of fat and flour, add stock gradually, and season
with soy sauce to taste.
If your family is too small to use a whole can of vege-
tables at one meal, the remainder will help to make a
good tossed salad the following day, mixed with celery,
chopped lettuce, tomatoes, etc.
The next few dishes are examples of a cooking
method which is called by a variety of namesEggs-
in-a-huddle, Eggs-in-hell, Drunken Eggs, etc. A simple
principle prevails in all, whether cooked over a burner
or in the oven. A bed, or sauce, is prepared, and the
eggs dropped whole into it. The result is something like
poached or baked eggs with the important addition
of other flavors, and is sufficiently removed from the
customary breakfast eggs to make its appearance at
the dinner table a real treat.
HUDDLED EGGS
(Serves 6)
3 tablespoons olive or 54 teaspoon dried thyme
cooking oil 54 teaspoon dried basil
i clove garlic, halved i teaspoon minced pars-
i small onion, minced ley
54 can tomato paste mixed Salt and pepper
with 154 cups vege- 6 eggs
table stock, or i cup 6 pieces crisp toast
canned or stewed to-
matoes
Heat oil in saucepan and brow
r
n halves of garlic. Add
minced onion and cook about i o minutes. Remove gar-
lic, add all ingredients but eggs, and continue cooking
about 15 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Break
eggs carefully into the sauce as though you were poach-
ing them. Cover pan and cook slowly until eggs are
done, about 20 minutes. Serve each egg on a piece of
toast with sauce poured over all.
SPANISH EGGS
(Serves 6)
6 tablespoons raw rice 54 teaspoon salt
1 onion, chopped 54 teaspoon chili powder
2 tablespoons cooking oil 6 eggs
1 cup vegetable broth or 3 tablespoons grated
bouillon cheese
Wash and dry the rice and fry with onion in cook-
ing oil until browned. Season with salt and chili
powder, mix in broth and pour into greased casserole.
Cover and bake 30 to 40 minutes in moderate oven. If
rice dries out before it is tender, add more broth. Re-
move from oven, make six hollows in rice, and break
EGG DISHES 87
one egg into each. Sprinkle with cheese and set in oven
another 10 minutes until eggs are set and cheese melted.
MEXICAN POACHED EGGS
(4 to 6 servings)
1 onion, sliced thin mato paste in y
2
cup
1 tablespoon fat or oil water
1 sweet green pepper, 54 cup vegetable stock
chopped 54 pound cut up cheese
Yi cup tomato juice, or 1 Salt and pepper
scant tablespoon to- 4 to 6 eggs
4 to 6 sMces crisp toast
Fry onion slices and chopped pepper in fat or oil
until well cooked. Then add tomato juice, broth and
cheese. Stir and, when cheese is somewhat melted,
season. Break eggs carefully into the sauce. Cover
tightly and allow eggs to set. Serve each egg on a piece
of toast and cover with sauce.
INDIAN EGGS
(Serves 6)
1 pint cooked black or red 2 ripe tomatoes, or 2
beans canned, or 1 heaping
1 tablespoon fat or cooking tablespoon tomato
oil paste with 1 cup water
1 onion, minced or stock
1 clove garlic, minced 6 eggs
Salt and pepper Grated Parmesan or
Romano cheese
Mash the beans and mix in a little bean broth to make
them moist. (If you are using tomato paste and water,
add it to mashed beans instead of the bean broth. Then
if more moisture is needed, add bean broth.) Cut peeled
tomatoes in small pieces. Meanwhile, fry onion and
garlic in fat or oil until light brown. To them add
tomatoes. When cooked, add beans, stirring well to-
gether. If you wish a fine puree, strain the mixture;
otherwise, mash it with a fork. Cover bottom of
greased baking dish with half the puree. Break eggs
into this, season, and cover carefully with the rest of
beans. Sprinkle grated cheese over top and bake in
moderate oven about 20 minutes.
EGGS FLORENTINE
(Serves 4 to 6)
3 cups cooked, chopped 1 cup cheese or other
spinach sauce
4 to 6 eggs 54 teaspoon minced dried
1 teaspoon minced parsley tarragon or basil
or chervil Grated cheese
Salt and pepper
Spread seasoned spinach on bottom of greased cas-
serole and sprinkle with grated cheese. Make hollows
in the spinach and break one egg carefully into each.
Cover with sauce and bake in moderate oven until
eggs are set, about 15 minutes.
The sauce may be a simple tomato flavored one, a
mushroom gravy, or this cheese sauce.
CHEESE SAUCE
(Makes % cup)
1 tablespoon cooking oil
or fat
1 tablespoon flour
54 cup milk or vegetable
stock
Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon minced onion
Dash cayenne pepper
54 teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 tablespoons grated Par-
mesan or Romano
cheese
Yi bay leaf
EGG DISHES 89
Cook onion in fat until soft, then add flour and cook
another five minutes. Gradually add heated milk or
vegetable stock, seasonings, and stir well. Then add
grated cheese and cook until sauce thickens, continu-
ing to stir briskly.
Florentine Eggs may also be served by arranging
chopped spinach on a platter, making a nest at either
end tor halved hard-boiled eggs. The sauce may be
passed separately, or poured over platter before serv-
ing.
EGG TIMBALES
(6 servings)
6 eggs Pepper and salt
154 cups rich milk 1 teaspoon parsley or
1 teaspoon onion juice, chervil
or very finely 54 teaspoon thyme or sum-
minced onion mer savory
When eggs have been well beaten, add salt and
pepper, onion juice, milk and herbs. Beat again until
light and pour into greased timbale or muffin molds.
Place in pan of hot water and bake in moderate oven
until firm, about 20 minutes. Serve on platter with
simple tomato gravy. (See Chapter Eleven.)
In the remaining preparations the eggs are hard-
boiled though that is, perhaps, a misnomer. But as long
as it is understood that the eggs should be simmered
rather than boiled, we will not quarrel with the familiar
term.
9
o COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
CHINESE EGGS
(4 servings)
Yi cup raw rice 1 teaspoon tomato chili
1 teaspoon chopped sauce, or tomato paste
onion Pinch dried basil or
4 hard-boiled eggs marjoram
% cup grated cheese Salt and pepper
x
/
2
cup milk
green pepper
Boil rice, as directed in Chapter Five, and drain.
Season with salt and pepper and spread on a shallow
baking dish. Cut eggs in half lengthwise, remove yolks
and mix them with 54 cup cheese, green pepper,
minced onion, chili sauce and season with herb, salt and
pepper. Stuff egg whites and arrange on rice. Make a
sauce of the milk and remaining cheese by heating in
top part of a double boiler until cheese melts. Pour
over eggs and rice, cover, and bake in moderate oven
for 20 minutes.
STUFFED EGG SALAD
(Serves
6 hard-boiled eggs
Yi teaspoon prepared mus-
tard
1 teaspoon minced chives
or onion
1 medium cabbage
4 or 5)
Thin mayonnaise
Yi teaspoon dried tarra-
gon, thyme, or basil
Salt and pepper
Fresh tomatoes
Shred the cabbage, mix in enough thin mayonnaise
to coat pieces well, and season with salt and pepper.
Cover bottom of flat serving dish. Prepare eggs by
cutting in half lengthwise, removing yolks and mash-
ing them with a little mayonnaise, mustard, salt,
EGG DISHES 91
pepper, chives and tarragon. Stuff eggs with this mix-
ture and arrange in center of dish on bed of cabbage.
Pour a little mayonnaise over each egg and place slices
of tomatoes around the edge.
This is a good one-dish meal for summer evenings.
Any other salad vegetables such as celery or radishes
may be arranged on the platter also.
For a different taste effect, combine egg yolks with
these ingredients (for six eggs):
1 tablespoon minced pars- Salt and pepper
ley 1 teaspoon vinegar
1 clove garlic, finely 1 teaspoon olive oil
minced 1 jigger brandy (Mexican,
54 small onion, finely if possible)
minced
Serve as above, decorating the edge of the platter
with rounds of onion and slices of tomato.
CURRIED EGGS
(6 servings)
2 tablespoons fat or oil 154 cups vegetable stock
1 tablespoon minced or bouillon
onion 6 hard-boiled eggs
1 clove garlic, halved 54 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons curry
l
/
2
teaspoon salt powder
Cook onion and garlic in fat until beginning to
brown. Remove garlic. Stir in flour mixed with 54 tea-
spoon of salt and the curry powder. Cook 5 minutes
before adding stock gradually. Stir mixture until it is
thick and smooth. Halve or quarter the eggs and add
with lemon juice to sauce. Cook until eggs are
thoroughly heated, and serve with a ring of boiled
rice.
X
VEGETABLES IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Since vegetables are prominent in any well-balanced
luncheon or dinner when meat is also served, they be-
come doubly important when meat is not available.
This chapter offers a collection of recipes that in most
cases gives to vegetables the elevated position of main
dish. Even though I sympathize with those who claim
that young, fresh vegetables are at their best cooked
only to the point of tenderness and served with simple
seasonings, there is need for more elaborate treatment
when these foods are to be the high spot of any meal.
Certainly for psychological reasons the extra flourish
is necessary to tempt families for whom the lack of
meat is a severe privation.
Let us consider what culinary feats can be accom-
plished with some of our common vegetables. If the
recipes are reminiscent of Latin foods, it is because
Latins have learned seasoning arts that we have too
often neglected.
Eggplant responds wonderfully to a little extra at-
tention, so it is selected for primary consideration.
92
VEGETABLES IN THE SPOTLIGHT 93
EGGPLANT WITH TOMATOES
(Serves 6 to 8)
2 eggplants (under a 3 cloves garlic, halved
pound each) 1 No. 2 can tomatoes, or
2 tablespoons olive or 2 cups stewed
cooking oil Salt and pepper
Let oil and garlic simmer in frying pan, and remove
garlic when it has browned. Cut unpeeled eggplants
into inch squares and place by layers in a casserole,
each layer seasoned with salt and pepper. Pour garlic-
seasoned oil over the eggplant pieces and mix
thoroughly. Cover casserole and place in a slow oven
for 54 hour to allow eggplant to steam gently. Remove
from oven, pour in tomatoes and return to oven until
tomatoes begin to simmer. If you like sour cream
dishes, after steaming the eggplant, flood the dish with
sour cream instead of tomatoes.
WEST INDIAN GOULASH
(Serves 6)
This is a recipe for the season of fresh corn and
tomatoes, but canned products may be substituted.
2 small eggplants 3 or 4 tomatoes, sliced
Olive or cooking oil Grated cheese
154 to 2 cups corn cut Salt and pepper
from cob, or canned
Cut eggplant in half-inch slices and fry in oil until
lightly browned. Fill casserole with layers of fried
eggplant, corn, sliced tomatoes and a sprinkling of
grated cheese, repeating the layers until ingredients
are used up. Season each layer with salt and pepper,
and have tomatoes on the top. If you have any left-over
tomato sauce, pour a little over the top also and finish
off with a final sprinkling of cheese. Bake in moderate
oven until slightly browned.
The three recipes for stuffed eggplant which follow
will give you a suggestion of the many combinations
that can be devised with a bit of ingenuity. There are
several methods of preparing eggplant for stuffing, but
I have found it practical to halve them and scoop out
the pulp with a sharp spoon before cooking. Leave a
shell about one-half inch thick so the plant will hold
its shape, and cover with cold salted water while the
stuffing is being prepared.
STUFFED EGGPLANT
(4 servings)
2 eggplants, each weigh-
ing about a pound
1 green pepper, chopped
1 onion, chopped
154 cups boiling water
oil
1 cup dry bread crumbs
1 y
2
teaspoons salt
Pepper
Prepare eggplant shells. Chop pulp, mix with green
pepper and onion, and fry in oil about 10 minutes.
Then add bread crumbs, boiling water and seasoning.
Drain eggplant and stuff with the mixture. Put shells
in pan containing a little hot water and bake in moder-
ate oven for about Yi hour.
EGGPLANT WITH NUT STUFFING
(4 servings)
2 small eggplants 1 tablespoon chopped pars-
2 tablespoons cooking oil ley
54 cup chopped nutmeats 1 tablespoon chopped
Y
4
teaspoon dried marjo- onion
ram 1 beaten egg
Salt and pepper
Prepare eggplant shells. Chop pulp, mix with
chopped onion and fry gently for 10 minutes in oil.
Combine with rest of ingredients and fill drained shells
with the mixture. Set shells in pan containing a little
hot water and bake for about 54 hour. This has a de-
cidedly Chinese flavor, and soy sauce should be served
with it at the table.
EGGPLANT WITH MUSHROOM STUFFING
(4 servings)
2 small eggplants 54 cup grat ed cheese
54 t o y
2
pound fresh mush- 54 cup dr y bread cr umbs
r ooms 2 tablespoons cooki ng oil
1 onion, minced 1 bay leaf
2 stalks celery, minced Salt and pepper
1 green pepper, minced
Prepare eggplant shells. Chop pulp and fry 10 min-
utes in oil with chopped onion, green pepper, celery
and bay leaf. Meanwhile, let sliced mushrooms boil 5
minutes in just enough water to cover. Add them to
other ingredients with a little mushroom stock if mois-
ture is needed. Season to taste and heap into eggplant
shells, topping with grated cheese. Bake in a little hot
water as previously directed.
So much for eggplant, the gourmet's delight, and
on to the humblest vegetable of them allpotatoes.
SAVORY FRIED POTATOES
(Serves 4)
It would be stretching a point to claim that this po-
tato preparation will pass as a main dish, but the result
is far superior to ordinary fried potatoes.
9
4 medium-sized boiled
potatoes
i clove garlic
3 tablespoons butter or
substitute
2 shallots or i small onion,
chopped
54 teaspoon grated lemon
peel
i teaspoon minced pars-
ley
54 teaspoon curry powder,
or i teaspoon turmeric
Pinch nutmeg
Salt and pepper
Halve garlic clove and fry in butter with shallots
until they turn color. Remove garlic, add potatoes that
have been diced, and remainder of ingredients except
curry. When potatoes are done to your taste, sprinkle
with curry or turmeric and serve.
POTATOES WI TH CORN AND TOMATOES
(Serves 6)
medium potatoes, boiled i cup corn cut from the
tablespoons fat or oil
onion, chopped or sliced
thin
cup stewed or canned to-
matoes, or 2 large fresh
ones, chopped
cob, or canned
Yi teaspoon chili powder
Salt and pepper
54 cup hot milk
Fry onion in fat five minutes, then add tomatoes,
corn and one boiled potato which has been mashed
with hot milk. Season and cook until heated thor-
oughly. Pour mixture over remaining potatoes which
have been halved, and set in slow oven to keep warm
until served. If you prefer not to use chili powder, a
dash of Tabasco may be substituted.
Two cups of sliced okra may be used instead of
potatoes, in which case the corn may also be omitted.
STUFFED PEPPERS
(See Index)
ITALIAN EGGS
(See Index)
SQUASH AND TOMATOES
(4 servings)
Here is another summer suggestion, although it is
just as good in winter if the ingredients are not too
expensive.
3 young squash 2 sprigs coriander, or few
1 onion, minced coriander seeds,
1 tablespoon fat or oil ground
3 tomatoes, chopped 54 cup cut-up American
54 cup sour cream, or stock cheese, or more to
from squash taste
Salt and pepper
Cut squash in cubes and cook in salted water. Mean-
while, melt fat in saucepan and cook onion in it, add-
ing tomatoes after five minutes. Then add squash, sour
cream or squash stock, coriander and cut up cheese,
allowing mixture to simmer about ten minutes longer.
This dish will probably be a little runny.
STUFFED SQUASH
Small round squash with green shells are excellent
for stuffing. Cut them in half and remove seeds and
stringy portion. Boil or steam about 2 hours, or until
tender. Remove pulp, leaving shell intact, and mix
pulp with an equal amount of bread crumbs, 1 egg
(for 3 or 4 squash), and a small quantity of grated
Parmesan or Romano cheese. Moisten the mixture to
a very soft consistency with milk, season, add pinch
or two of dried marjoram and fill shells. Bake in moder-
ate oven until browned.
Like stuffed eggplant, squash may be filled with
many different ingredients to change the taste and
provide new dishes. Thyme or rosemary may be sub-
stituted for marjoram.
CASSEROLE OF SQUASH
(4 servings)
At the risk of over-stressing squash, one more recipe
is presented because the seasoning gives it a subtly dif-
ferent emphasis.
3 young yellow squash Y& teaspoon ground cinna-
1 tablespoon cooking oil mon
2 small onions, sliced thin Toasted bread
54 teaspoon salt 54 to 54 cup grated cheese
2 cups milk Fine bread crumbs
54 teaspoon ground cloves
Cut squash in slices without peeling. Cook until al-
most done in salted boiling water. Drain thoroughly.
Fry onion slices slowly in oil until they turn color. To
the milk add salt and spices. Cover bottom of greased
casserole with toasted bread, then add a layer of squash
and another of onion slices. Wet thoroughly with
seasoned milk and repeat layers of squash and onion
until all are used. Cover all with remaining milk and
sprinkle with grated cheese and fine bread crumbs.
Bake in moderate oven until top browns.
ITALIAN CAULIFLOWER
(5 or 6 servings)
Here is cauliflower, all dressed up for company.
1 head cauliflower
1 tablespoon flour
1 egg yolk
54 cup sliced mushrooms
1 tablespoon cream or
condensed milk
1 tablespoon minced pars-
ley
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Dash of nutmeg
Toast (1 piece for each
serving)
Boil mushrooms five minutes in just enough water
or stock to cover. Drain and save stock. Make a roux
of fat and flour, add gradually 54 cup mushroom stock
with the sliced mushrooms, and cook gently about 5
minutes, stirring frequently. Beat egg yolk with cream
and add to sauce with nutmeg, lemon juice, parsley and
seasoning. When piping hot, pour over cauliflower
which in the meantime has been broken into flower-
ettes, cooked, drained and arranged on pieces of toast.
The toast may be set on individual plates or placed
on a platter. The former procedure eliminates serving
at the table and allows less time for the food to cool. It
is a good idea to apportion only one serving around
the table, keeping the remaining ingredients warm
until seconds are called for.
SPINACH MOLD
(Serves 6)
Mustard greens (with five vitamins!), Swiss chard,
dandelion or beet greens may be used instead of
spinach.
ioo COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
3 pounds spinach
2 eggs, yolks and whites
beaten separately
54 cup milk
i J4 cups bread crumbs
Salt and pepper
l
/
4
teaspoon minced dried
rosemary
i tablespoon finely
minced chives or
onion
Pick over spinach, wash carefully in several waters,
and cook in large kettle with no more water than clings
to the leaves. When done, drain and chop fine. Mix
in all other ingredients, folding in egg whites last.
Season, and turn into greased ring mold, set in a pan of
hot water and bake in moderate oven about 20 min-
utes. Unmold, and fill center with mashed potatoes,
creamed mushrooms or any creamed vegetable.
SPINACH SOUFFLfi WITH MARJORAM
(See Index)
SPINACH OMELET
(See Index)
EGGS FLORENTINE
(See Index)
CARROT TIMBALES
(Serves 6)
Carrots, available the year round and relatively in-
expensive at any time, should be used often for econ-
omy. To give them a different appearance, try tim-
bales.
4 cups raw carrots, cut in 2 eggs, slightly beaten
rounds Salt and pepper
Pinch nutmeg 1 teaspoon fresh minced
1 teaspoon minced chervil mint leaves, or 54 tea-
or parsley spoon dried
Cover carrots with boiling water or stock and cook
until tender. Drain and mash fine. Mix with remainder
of ingredients and fill greased timbale or muffin molds
two-thirds full. Set in pan of hot water and bake in
moderate oven 15 minutes. Serve on a platter sur-
rounded by another vegetable, and in a separate dish
serve a gravy or sauce. (See Chapter Eleven for sauce
suggestions.)
CURRIED CARROTS
(See Index)
Carrots may be used raw in mixed green salads to
improve the flavor and color, or if your taste runs to
salad molds, use liberally in that form.
VEGETABLE AND CHEESE CASSEROLE
(See Index)
VEGETABLE CAKES
(See Index)
DRIED LEGUMES
(See Chapter Eight)
CUBAN SAUCE FOR PEAS
If you wish to give fresh peas a more honored place
at your table, dress them up with the following sauce
which will take care of a quart of peas.
io2 COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
i teaspoon salt 2 green peppers, chopped
1 tablespoon olive or cook- 1 bay leaf, minced fine
ing oil Dash of nutmeg
2 minced onions 2 teaspoons vinegar
1 teaspoon parsley, minced
Fry onions slowly in oil, adding after a few minutes
the chopped green pepper, bay leaf and parsley. When
contents of frying pan are cooked soft, add nutmeg
dissolved in vinegar. Spoon this sauce over the freshly
cooked peas, stirring gently until they are well coated.
Serve hot.
INDIAN EGGS
(See Index)
SCRAMBLED BEANS
(See Index)
EGG FOO YOUNG
(See Index)
SAUCE FOR STRING BEANS
String beans can be dressed up with sauce, too. This
recipe is sufficient for one pound of young beans.
2 tablespoons cooking oil ery, or 54 teaspoon
1 clove garlic, minced celery salt
1 small onion, minced 1 tablespoon minced
1 large tomato parsley
1 tablespoon green pepper, 54 teaspoon dried marjo-
minced ram or summer sa-
1 tablespoon white wine, if vory
desired Pinch each cinnamon
1 tablespoon minced eel- and allspice
Salt and pepper
Fry minced onion and garlic slowly in fat. After 5
minutes add tomato which has been peeled and cut in
small pieces, green pepper, celery, wine, herbs and
spices. Salt and pepper to taste and cook gently another
10 minutes before adding cooked beans. Stir them in
well, cover, and let the mixture simmer a few minutes
longer before serving.
STRING BEANS AND MUSHROOMS
Beans and mushrooms are a natural combination,
and one that is a real delicacy. Saute
l
A pound sliced
mushrooms in butter or butter substitute and mix them
with a pound of string beans that have been boiled just
to the point of tenderness. Season with salt and pepper
and sprinkle with chopped fresh dill leaves, a bit of
marjoram or a small pinch of sage.
String beans can also be transformed into a main
dish by the simple expedient of flooding them with a
plain mushroom sauce or the Mixed Vegetable Gravy
in Chapter Four.
NOODLES WITH GREEN BEANS
(See Index)
In Chapter Eleven you will find other gravies and
sauces which may be served with vegetables to enhance
their appearance and flavor. Standard garden products,
in general, can be turned into as many different dishes
as there are sauces and gravies to serve with them.
The subject of salads is so extensive and varied that
I have room here only to suggest a few recipes, leav-
ing it to you to use your imagination in seeking out
i o
4
new combinations.* In summer, when fresh vegetables
are more common and cold meals welcome, the salad
bowl often receives a spotlight position.
TOMATO AND LETTUCE SALAD
(Serves 5 or.6)
1 head of lettuce 2 stalks celery, diced, or
2 large ripe tomatoes, 54 teaspoon celery
sliced or cut in pieces salt
1 small onion, chopped 54 teaspoon dried thyme
1 clove garlic, if desired Salt and pepper to taste
% green pepper, chopped 3 tablespoons olive or
1 tablespoon chopped vegetable oil
parsley (approximately)
1 tablespoon vinegar
First, wash and dry the lettuce leaves, break them
apart, and heap into a large salad bowl. Rub a dry heel
of bread with garlic clove until it is covered with juice
and put it with the lettuce. Then put other salad in-
gredients on top of lettuce. Sprinkle oil over salad and
toss the ingredients gently until thoroughly coated,
adding more oil if needed. Then season with salt and
pepper. Lastly add the vinegar and toss gently again.
Remove heel of bread and serve salad at once. Don' t
let it stand or the greens will become wilted.
This salad is as versatile as your kitchen garden or
the supplies of your greengrocer permit. Make it sim-
pler or more elaborate, but always use an herb or t wo,
with discrimination.
#
SALADS AND HERBS by Cora, Rose and Bob Brown, covers
the situation for those who wish to splurge with more and better
salads.
AVOCADO SALAD
(Serves 6)
3 ripe avocados 3 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tomatoes, quartered Salt and pepper
1 onion, sliced thin Minced fresh dill
54 cup olive or vegetable Lettuce or escarole
oil
Peel avocados and cut in strips. Shred lettuce, but
not too fine, and cowr bottom of salad bowl. Lay
strips of avocado on lettuce, then pieces of tomato
and slices of onion. Beat oil and lemon juice together
with salt and pepper. Pour over salad bowl and sprinkle
top with minced fresh dill.
RUSSIAN SALAD
(Serves 4 or 5)
% cup diced cooked car- 1 stalk celery, minced, or
rots 1 teaspoon celery salt
1 cup diced cooked po- 1 teaspoon minced onion
tatoes or 2 teaspoons
54 cup diced cooked beets minced shallots
l
/
2
cup cooked peas .
l
A teaspoon dried tarra-
54 cup cooked string gon, or 1 scant tea-
beans, cut small spoon fresh minced
2 tablespoons olive or tarragon
salad oil Salt and pepper to taste
Thin mayonnaise
Mix all vegetables and marinate with olive oil.
Season with salt and pepper and mix in enough thin
mayonnaise to moisten all ingredients. Lastly, add tar-
ragon and serve in a salad bowl lined with salad greens.
Ring the bowl with sliced tomatoes, radishes, hard-
boiled egg or olives to complete a colorful dish.
io6 COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
STUFFED EGG SALAD
(See Index)
POTATO SALAD
(Serves 6)
Summer or winter, when dressed as a salad, potatoes
often become the dominant part of a luncheon or din-
ner. Best of all, potato dishes are inexpensive and stick
to the ribs.
6 good sized potatoes
l
/
2
teaspoon celery salt, or
About i cup mayon- 54 cup chopped cel-
naise, garlic mayon- ery
naise preferred 2 tablespoons chopped
54 teaspoon dried marjo- green pepper
ram i or 2 sliced hard-boiled
54 teaspoon dried thyme eggs, if desired
1 medium onion, chopped Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon chopped
parsley
Boil potatoes with jackets, peel and cut into ap-
proximately %-inch squares. Mix with onion, green
pepper, and seasonings. Mix in mayonnaise carefully
so the potatoes are not mashed, but be sure the dressing
reaches every piece of potato. Line a salad bowl with
lettuce leaves, fill with potato mixture, and top with
sliced hard-boiled eggs and a dash of paprika. Ring the
bowl with sliced tomatoes and radishes for a one-dish
meal that is hard to beat for taste.
GARLIC MAYONNAISE
The garlic mayonnaise mentioned above is easy to
make and will give a subtle zest to the salad. If you are
using a prepared product, simply crush one or two
cloves of garlic and stir into 1 cup of mayonnaise.
Otherwise, add crushed garlic to beaten egg yolks as
you make the mayonnaise according to your favorite
recipe.
POTATO SALAD WITH FRENCH DRESSING
(Serves 6)
For a salad with slightly different emphasis, try this:
6 large potatoes
2 medium onions, sliced
thin
1 cup olive or vegetable
oil
54 cup vinegar
4 tablespoons grated Par-
mesan cheese
1 teaspoon dried wild
marjoram
1 small green pepper,
sliced thin
Yi teaspoon prepared mus-
tard, if desired
Boil potatoes in jackets, peel and cut in slices. Mix
with sliced onions and green pepper. Beat oil and vine-
gar together until thoroughly mixed. To it add mus-
tard, grated cheese and marjoram, with salt and pepper
to season the whole dish. Prepare salad bowl with let-
tuce leaves or escarole, pile in potato mixture, and flood
with oil dressing. Fresh minced dill tops and a few
caraway seeds add a piquant touch, as do sorrel or
water cress. But don't get too many strong flavors
competing with each other.
XI
GRAVIES AND SAUCES
If you have always thought of gravy as the by-
' product of meat, begin now to change that concept.
You can have it without a roast of beef or pork or lamb.
The basis of meatless gravy? White sauce. But I hasten
to remind you that it is only the basis. By itself and for
itself, never. It qualifies as a foundation for gravy be-
cause of its consistency, and because in various guises
it is the finishing touch to meatless roasts, croquettes
and timbales.
Made in the following way (by the quart and stored
in the refrigerator if used frequently), you will have
a reliable foundation for many different gravies:
With each cup of milk use i tablespoon of butter
or substitute, and i tablespoon of flour. Melt the butter
in a thick bottomed skillet or pan over a very low
flame. Blend in the flour until the mixture is smooth
and let it simmer at least 5 minutes with occasional
stirring to obtain what is known as a roux. Allow to
cool somewhat before adding gradually, and with con-
stant stirring, the warmed milk. When all is well
108
GRAVIES AND SAUCES 109
blended, return to a low heat and continue the cook-
ing another 10 minutes at least, stirring frequently.
Finally, add salt and pepper to taste.
This mixture doesn't sound exotic, and it emphati-
cally isn't. So don't delude yourself into believing it
can be served unadorned.
You will notice as you go further that a roux is
employed in making all gravies and some sauces, and
that the added ingredients are introduced in similar
fashion. It helps, I think, to know that a fundamental
principle is being followed, especially when you try
out your own combinations and elaborations.
These simple gravies will be a starter.
MUSHROOM GRAVY
(Based on 2 cups of white sauce)
1. Depending on their current price and how elabo-
rate you wish to make the gravy, add 54 to 1 cup of
sliced mushrooms that have been fried gently for five
minutes in a tablespoon of butter or substitute.
2. The mushroom flavor will be more pervasive if
you cover the mushrooms with boiling water and let
them stand for five minutes, using a cup of their liquid
in making the basic white sauce.
3. Saute 1 or 2 tablespoons of minced green pepper
in oil for five minutes. Add mushrooms and cook gently
another five minutes, and add to white sauce.
4. Add 1 tablespoon chopped pimiento with the
mushrooms, plus 54 teaspoon of celery salt, and 1 tea-
spoon of Worcestershire sauce.
Go on from here and try your own variations of
mushroom gravy.
no COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
HERB GRAVY
Add 1 tablespoon each of fresh minced chives, pars-
ley and tarragon.
CELERY AND EGG GRAVY
Add 1 cup of diced celery and any remaining water
in which the stalks were cooked. (There shouldn't be
much.) Sprinkle in a little celery salt, Yi teaspoon of
minced parsley, and 2 chopped hard-cooked eggs.
This may be served on toast as a main dish, and
more than 2 eggs may be added if desired.
CHEESE GRAVY
Gradually stir in Vi to 1 cup of grated cheese (not
too mild), and Yt teaspoon of paprika until the mix-
ture is blended. Then add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
or soy sauce. This may be varied by using different
cheeses, and by the addition of a tablespoon of minced
chives or onions. Celery and green peppers combine
well with cheese, too.
ONION GRAVY
1. Add 2 tablespoons onion juice, and 1 scant tea-
spoon dried sage.
2. A more savory onion gravy is made by using 3
medium onions, sliced very thin, and cooked into the
white sauce as follows: After melting the butter or
GRAVIES AND SAUCES i n
substitute, cook onion slices in it very gently without
browning. Sift in the 2 tablespoons of flour, stirring
frequently. When onions are very tender, add the 2
cups of warm milk gradually, stirring until the mix-
ture thickens. Then season with paprika, salt and
pepper. Add 1 tablespoon Worcestershire or A-i
sauce, and serve.
CAPER GRAVY
Add seasoning and Y% to % cup capers, heating
gravy for a few minutes to blend the flavors.
The liquid base of a flour-thickened gravy is not al-
ways milk. The well-known Veloute Sauce uses in-
stead 1 cup of chicken or veal stock (bouillon may be
substituted) to each tablespoon of flour and fat. The
other ingredients are 2 peppercorns and a pinch of salt.
They are combined just as in white sauce and the
peppercorns removed before serving. The variations
of white sauce can be applied to Veloute just as well
and the result will be subtly different and, to many,
preferable.
TOMATO GRAVY #2
Either tomato juice or diluted tomato paste is used
in making tomato gravy. Follow the directions for
making 2 cups of white sauce, substituting for the milk
2 cups of tomato juice or 2 cups of water or stock in
which 2 heaping tablespoons of tomato paste have
been dissolved. (Use more tomato paste if you like a
strong tomato flavor.) Season, and use any of these
variations.
ii2 COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
i. Add 54 teaspoon dried marjoram or basil.
2. Add 54 cup cooked, diced celery.
3. Add 6 or more cooked mushrooms, cut small.
4. Add 54 to 1 teaspoon of chili powder, and 1
tablespoon cooked, chopped onion or green pepper.
5. Add 1 tablespoon onion juice, 1 teaspoon pepper
sauce or chili vinegar and 1 teaspoon minced parsley.
Rub gravy bowl with garlic before filling.
A mere suggestion has been given of the variations
possible with this very simple, but very taste-satisfying,
tomato gravy.
The next four gravies are similar to white sauce
gravy, especially in the method of combining, but
have slight variations which require individual cook-
ing directions.
MIXED VEGETABLE GRAVY
(See Index)
CHEESE MORNAY
2 tablespoons cooking oil 4 tablespoons grated Par-
or rat mesan cheese, or 54
2 tablespoons flour cup American cheese
1 cup scalded milk Dash cayenne pepper
54 teaspoon onion juice Dash grated nutmeg
Yi teaspoon salt
Make a roux of fat and flour. Gradually add milk
and all seasonings, stirring constantly. After a few
minutes add cheese, and stir until cheese is melted and
consistency smooth. This is suitable for egg or vege-
table dishes.
SHARP GRAVY
2 tablespoons cooking oil 2 cups stock or bouillon
or fat 1 teaspoon chopped pars-
2 tablespoons flour ley
8 crushed peppercorns % teaspoon dried thyme
54 cup minced mushrooms 54 bay leaf
2 tablespoons vinegar Salt and cayenne pep-
1 small onion, chopped per
1 tomato, chopped
Saute onion in oil until yellow. Stir in flour and
cook until it browns. Then add peppercorns, mush-
rooms and tomato, and simmer about 5 minutes. Next
add stock and herbs and cook gently until thickened,
stirring often. Add vinegar and cook about 10 minutes
longer. If desired, strain and reheat. Season with salt
and cayenne and serve over vegetables, rice or noodles.
SOUR CREAM GRAVY
2 tablespoons cooking oil 1 cup sour cream
or fat Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons fresh minced
1 cup warmed milk dill tips
Make a roux of oil and flour, cooking 5 minutes. To
this add warmed milk slowly, stirring constantly until
smooth and thick. Beat in the sour cream and continue
cooking over lowest heat for 15 minutes, stirring often.
Season to taste, add fresh dill, and serve over bland
vegetables like new potatoes, summer squash or baby
turnips.
The following sauces and gravies, appearing in other
chapters, are thickened with flour and are therefore
11
4
similar in consistency to those already mentioned, and
have similar uses. (See Index for page number.)
SOUFFLfe SAUCE
TOMATO GRAVY
TOMATO CREAM SAUCE
Making any distinction between gravies and sauces
is perhaps not entirely justified, both serving to en-
hance other dishes. The division has been made mainly
on the basis of a gravy-like consistency of the former,
and partly on the basis of use. There will be borderline
cases that defy classification and you may call them
anything you like. In general, though, what are listed
here as sauces are more elaborate and set the tone for
the entire meal.
If meat for dinner has been a rule in your house-
hold, it's time to get out of the rut and set off along
less common culinary pathwaysand it's sauces that
will lead the way.
For instance, have you ever set before your family
a steaming bowl of curry sauce and a heaping dish of
plump, tender rice? If not, repair the oversight soon,
for the curry taste develops quickly.
CURRY SAUCE
(Makes about 2 54 cups)
This is not hard to make, even if the list of ingredi-
ents does look imposing. And the results are superb,
especially if the rice which accompanies the sauce has
been carefully cooked.
2 cups stock or bouillon
2 medium onions, minced
1 clove garlic, halved
2 tablespoons olive or
cooking oil
1 tart apple, minced
3 stalks celery, minced
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons curry pow-
der
54 teaspoon ginger
54 teaspoon salt
54 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon Worcester-
shire sauce
54 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
Cook onions, garlic, apple, celery and bay leaf in oil
until onions are slightly browned. Remove garlic. Stir
in curry powder mixed with flour. Cook 5 minutes,
stirring well. Then add remaining ingredients and
cook 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
CURRY SAUCE #2
(Makes about 2 cups)
A less elaborate recipe followsone that is good as
a basis for many dishes. Try reheating cold seafood or
hard-boiled eggs in it. Eggs and curry have a natural
affinity.
1 tablespoon fat 1 pint stock, milk, or water
2 teaspoons chopped onion 1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon curry powder Salt and pepper
(more if desired)
Cook onion in fat until delicate brown, then add
flour mixed with curry powder, and cook 5 minutes.
Gradually pour in stock, stirring constantly. Bring to
a boil, season and strain if desired.
u6 COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
CURRY SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES
(Makes about i cup)
If you want to use up two or three cups of cooked
vegetables, this recipe is recommended.
2 slices onion
2 tablespoons cooking oil
or fat
2 tablespoons flour
i pinch celery salt
54 teaspoon chili powder
i teaspoon curry powder
54 teaspoon salt
i tablespoon Angostura
bitters, or Worcester-
shire sauce
i cup scalded milk
2 tablespoons chopped
parsley
Cook onion slowly in oil 5 minutes. Then stir in
flour and all seasonings. Gradually add scalded milk
and cook until thickened and smooth. Pour over platter
of vegetables and sprinkle with chopped parsley or
other chopped herbs.
With these three guides in the making of curry
sauce, you should have no trouble in determining
what ingredients mingle appropriately with curry as
you experiment further by yourself.
SPAGHETTI SAUCES
(See Chapter Six)
The next group of recipes uses whole tomatoes
which, when cooked down, thicken to a sauce con-
sistency. For those who are fortunate enough to have
them fresh from the garden, or can purchase them in-
expensively, these sauces will be especially useful.
Canned tomatoes without the juice may also be used.
Serve them with any dish that requires a tomato sauce;
a glance at the ingredients shows whether the result
will be mild or peppery. So, each to her own taste.
TOMATO SAUCE # 2
1 tablespoon cooking oil 3 cups chopped tomatoes
1 onion, sliced Salt and pepper to taste
1 clove garlic, minced fine
Cook onion slowly in oil until it turns color. Add
minced garlic and continue to simmer a few minutes.
Add tomatoes, cover the saucepan, and cook over low-
est possible heat for a half hour or more, stirring oc-
casionally. When done, the consistency is thick and
creamy. If desired, before seasoning with salt and
pepper, press tomatoes through a sieve. Serve hot.
MEXICAN SAUCE
2 tablespoons cooking oil 54 cup ground almonds or
1 onion, chopped walnuts (may be
1 teaspoon chili powder omitted)
2 stalks celery, chopped 4 chopped tomatoes
54 teaspoon cayenne pep- 54 bay leaf
per (This amount 2 cups vegetable stock or
makes a very hot bouillon
sauce and may be Salt to taste
reduced to a dash.)
Fr y onion very slowly in oil without browning.
When turning color, add chili powder, celery, nuts,
cayenne, tomatoes and bay leaf. Simmer until thick-
ened and add broth. Continue this very slow cooking
until sauce begins to thicken again, a process that takes
some patience. Strain, if desired, and reheat before
serving.
u8 COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCE
2 tablespoons olive or 54 teaspoon dried basil or
cooking oil thyme
2 tablespoons chopped 3 cups chopped tomatoes
onion 2 tablespoons minced
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
celery Salt and pepper
1 clove garlic, finely 54 teaspoon paprika
minced
Cook onion, garlic and chopped celery in oil a few
minutes before adding tomatoes, basil, and parsley.
Cook over low heat to consistency of thick cream, and
season.
Serve this over eggs, spaghetti, vegetablesany-
thing that demands a substantial tomato sauce.
TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SAUCE
4 tomatoes, chopped 1 small onion, chopped
1 medium cucumber,
l
/
2
teaspoon salt
peeled and chopped Vinegar
Dash Tabasco sauce
Let first four ingredients simmer slowly about a
half hour. Then add vinegar to taste, and Tabasco.
TOMATO AND WINE SAUCE
6 tomatoes, peeled and cut 54 teaspoon ground cloves
fine 54
CU
P white wine
1 tablespoon fat or oil Salt to taste
4 peppercorns Pinch thyme
Cook tomatoes gently in fat or oil until softened,
then add remaining ingredients and allow to simmer
until thick as heavy cream. Remove peppercorns and
serve. May be used to fill rice or noodle ring or over
some dried bean preparation.
The following sauces, appearing in other chapters,
also have tomato bases. (See Index for page numbers.)
MEXICAN SAUCE FOR VEGETABLE CAKES
BAKED BEAN SAUCE
SPANISH SAUCE
MEXICAN TOMATO SAUCE
OMELET SAUCE
To relieve the monotony of customary salad dress-
ing, try substituting these two sauces. Serve them with
cooked or raw salad vegetables.
MUSTARD SAUCE
4 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon minced cher-
2 tablespoons prepared vil or parsley
mustard Pinch dried tarragon,
1 teaspoon minced chives thyme, spearmint or
Dash cayenne pepper basil
Mix all ingredients thoroughly.
i2o COOKING WITHOUT MEAT
TARRAGON SAUCE
i cup mayonnaise i small green pepper,
i tablespoon finely minced minced
fresh tarragon, or i i teaspoon chives, minced
teaspoon dried i tablespoon tomato chili
i pimiento, minced sauce
Mix all ingredients well, and serve.
GARLIC MAYONNAISE
(See Index)
Let me remind you againsauces and gravies are
the logical answer to many war-time food difficulties.
They dress up left-overs, transform mild foods like
rice, and banish regret for the passing of meat. Arm
yourself with a collection of favorite recipes, and you
will be ready to lick the ration problem. And have a
good time into the bargain!
GLOSSARY
Bouillon. A clear meat broth.
Marinate. To season by letting food stand sotne time
in oil, brine, or dressing to enhance the flavor.
Risotto. A method of cooking rice. The raw grain is first
sauteed, then cooked until tender in a liquid.
Roux. A cooked mixture of fat (or oil) and flour.
Saute. To fry lightly in a little hot fat or oil with fre-
quent stirring to prevent sticking or burning.
Souffle. A delicate spongy hot dish, made light and fluffy
by stiffly beaten whites of eggs.
Stock. A rich extract of the soluble parts of meat, fish,
poultry, or vegetables, obtained by boiling the food
in water.
Timbale. A seasoned food mixture, cooked in drum-
shaped molds, or small pastry shells filled with a
cooked mixture.
BI BLI OGRAPHY
EAT TO LIVE by Eula Corban, Esther Robertson Hal-
lock and Mabel Martin
M. S. Mill Co., Inc., 1943
100 MEAT-SAVING RECIPES by Ann Roe Robbins
Thomas Y. Crowell Company, 1943
MEATLESS MEALS by Jean Prescott Adams
Albert Whitman Company, 1943
SWEETS WITHOUT SUGAR by Marion White
M. S. Mill Co., Inc., 1942
WHAT DO WE EAT NOW? by Helen Robertson,
Sarah MacLeod and Frances Preston
J. B. Lippincott Company, 1942
WARTIME MEALS by Margot Murphy (Jane Holt)
Greenburg: Publisher, 1942
THRIFTY COOKING FOR WARTIME by Alice B.
Winn-Smith
The Macmillan Company, 1942
A COOK BOOK OF LEFTOVERS by Clare Newman
and Bell Wiley
Little, Brown and Company, 1941
THE BOOK OF HERB COOKERY by Irene Bottsford
Hoffmann
Houghton Mifflin Company, 1941
HERBS FOR THE KITCHEN by Irma Goodrich
Mazza
Little, Brown and Company, 1939
SALADS AND HERBS by Cora, Rose and Bob Brown
J. B. Lippincott Company, 1938
INDEX
Avocado Salad, 105
Baked Bean Sauce, 72
Baked Beans, 72
Baked Rice And Cheese, 6$
Basil, 16
Bay leaves, 17
Bean Stew, 76
Beans (Ch. 8)
as meat substitute, 23
dried, how to cook, 70-72
recipes used in, 70-77, 87
varieties, 72
fresh, recipes used in, 6, 83,
102, 103, 105
Beets, 105
Boston Roast, 74
Brazilian Rice, 44
Bread, amount needed daily,
24
Cabbage, recipes used in, 76, 90
Caper Gravy, 111
Carrot Timbales, 100
Carrots, recipes used in, 31, 35,
1 op, 105
Casserole Of Squash, 98
Cauliflower, 99
Celery, 19
Celery And Egg Gravy, no
Cheese (Ch. 7)
as meat substitute, 21, 22
how to conserve, 29
how to cook, 59
recipes used in, 31,46, 49, 51,
53"55 57* 60-69, 74, 86-88,
9* 93* 95* 97*9
8
I0
7*
I I 0
*
112
varieties of, 60, 62
Cheese And Nut Loaf, 61
Cheese Cakes Over Spaghetti,
68
Cheese Gravy, no
Cheese Mornay, 112
Cheese Ring, 67
Cheese Sauce, 88
Cheese Souffle With Sauce, 64
Cheese Timbales, 66
Chervil, 17
Chili powder, 20
Chili Sauce For Spaghetti, 5$
Chinese Eggs, 90
Corn, 23
recipes used in, 63, 93, 96
Cottage Cheese Loaf, 60
Cuban Sauce For Peas, 101
Curried Beans, 75
Curried Carrots, 35
Curried Eggs, 91
Curried Rice, 46
Curry Sauce, 114,115
left-over, 35
Curry Sauce For Vegetables,
116
Diet, balanced, 24
Dill, 17
East Indian Sauce, 47
Egg Foo Young, 84
Egg Timbales, 89
Eggplant recipes, 93-95
Eggplant With Mushroom
Smffing, 95
Eggplant With Nut Stuffing,
94
Eggplant With Tomatoes, 93
Eggs (Ch. 9)
123
I 2
4
INDEX
Eggs (Continued)
amount needed daily, 24, 79
as meat substitute, 21, 22, 79
how to conserve, 29, 79, 80
how to cook, 79, 81, 85
recipes used in, 29, 30, 32, 33,
40, 41, 49, 57, 60-64, 66
f
67,
69, 76, 77, 81-91, 94, 97, 99,
100, 106, n o
Eggs Florentine, 88
Fats, cooking, 27, 28
Fennel, 17
French Rice, 48
Fresh Mushroom Gravy For
Savory Ring, 33
Garlic, 19
Garlic Mayonnaise, 106
Gelatin, 23
Gravies (Ch. n ) , see Sauces
Caper Gravy, 111
Celery And Egg Gravy, n o
Cheese Gravy, 110
Cheese Mornay, 112
Fresh Mushroom Gravy For
Savory Ring, 33
Herb Gravy, no
Mixed Vegetable Gravy, 31
Mushroom Gravy, 109
Onion Gravy, 110
Sharp Gravy, 113
Sour Cream Gravy, 113
Tomato Gravy, 40, i n , 112
Herb Gravy, n o
Herb Sauce, 54
Herbs (Ch. 2)
gardening, 15
how to use, 16-18
list of, 16-18
Huddled Eggs, 86
Indian Eggs, 87
Italian Cauliflower, 99
Italian Eggs, 84
Italian Rice, 46
Italian Tomato Sauce, 118
Left-overs, recipes for, 29-36,
67, 71, 76, 77, 105, 116
Legumes (Ch. 8), 23
Lemons, 20
Lentils, 23
Lima Bean Roast, 75
Macaroni (Ch. 6), 50
recipes used in, 57, 68
Macaroni Loaf, 57
Macaroni With Cheese And
Tomatoes, 68
Mariner's Sauce, 53
Marjoram, 17
Meatless cooking (Ch. 1)
problems of, 12
Meatless Rice Roast, 40
Mexican Poached Eggs, 87
Mexican Rarebit, 63
Mexican Rice, 34
Mexican Sauce, 117
Mexican Sauce For Vegetable
Cakes, 34
Mexican Scrambled Eggs, 83
Mexican Spaghetti, 5$
Mexican Tomato Sauce, 81
Milk, 21, 22, 24
Mixed Vegetable Gravy, 31
Muffins and rolls, 13, 14
Mushroom Casserole, $6
Mushroom Gravy, 109
Mushrooms, 19
46, 47, 49, 54, 56, 67, 84, 95,
99, 103, 109, 112, 113
Noodles With Green Beans, $6
Nuts, as meat substitute, 21-23
94* " 7
INDEX
125
Omelet Sauce, 81
Oil, cooking, 27, 28
Onion Gravy, no
Onions, 19
Parsley, 17, 18
Peanut butter, 22, 23, 75
Peas, as meat substitute, 23
dried, how to cook, 70-72
101, 105
Peppers, hot, 19, 20
stuffed, 31, 42
sweet green, 19
Poached Egg Rarebit, 62
Polenta With Cheese, 66
Potato Salad, 106
Potato Salad With French
Dressing, 107
Potatoes, recipes used in, 30,76,
95* 9
6
* *<>5-
I0
7
Potatoes With Com And To-
matoes, g6
Proteins (Ch. 3)
Rarebits, 61-63
Ration chart, 28
Rationed food (Ch. 4)
Red Beans With Sauce, 73
Rice (Ch. 5)
brown, 37
how to cook, 37-39
polish, 23, 24, 36
recipes used in, 30, 34, 40-49,
6$, 66, 83, 86, 90
reheating, 39
types of, 39
wild, 38, 39
Rice A La Creole, 43
Rice And Cheese Souffle, 66
Rice And Vegetable Casserole,
30
Rice Molds, 42
Rice Ring, 48
Risotto, 43
Rosemary, 18
Russian Salad, 105
Sage, 18
Salads, 104-107
Sauce For String Beans, 102
Sauces (Ch, n ) , see Gravies
Baked Bean Sauce, 73
Cheese Sauce, 88
Cuban Sauce For Peas, 101
Curry Sauce, 114, 115
Curry Sauce For Vegetables,
116
East Indian Sauce, 47
Italian Tomato Sauce, 118
Mexican Sauce, 117
Mexican Sauce For Vege-
table Cakes, 34
Mexican Tomato Sauce, 81
Mustard Sauce, 119
Omelet Sauce, 8i
Sauce For String Beans, 102
spaghetti sauces, 53-55, 80
Spanish Sauce, 74
Souffle Sauce, 30
Tarragon Sauce, 120
Tomato And Cucumber
Sauce, 118
Tomato And Wine Sauce,
118
Tomato Cream Sauce, 6
Tomato Sauce, 53, 117
Savory, 18
Savory Fried Potatoes, 95
Savory Rice Roast, 41
Savory Rice With Herbs, 44
Savory Ring, 32
Scrambled Beans, 83
Seasonings (Ch. 2)
Sharp Gravy, 113
Souffle Sauce, 30
Souffles, 29, 64, 66
Sour Cream Gravy, 113
Soybean Loaf, 71
iz6
INDEX
Soybeans, 70
how t o prepare, 70, 71
recipes used in, 71, 72
Spaghetti (Ch. 6)
how t o cook, 51
how t o dress, 52
recipes, 51-55, 6$
varieties, 50
Spaghetti Sauce, 54, 80, 81
Spaghetti Wi t h Onions, 51
Spanish Eggs, 86
Spanish Rice, 45
Spanish Sauce, 74
Spearmint, 18
Spinach, 81, 82
recipes used in, 29, 82, 88, 99
Spinach Mold, 99
Spinach Omelet, 82
Spinach Souffle Wi t h Marjo-
ram, 29
Squash And Tomatoes, 97
Squash recipes, 84, 97, 98
String Beans And Mushrooms,
103
Stuffed Egg Salad, 90
Stuffed Eggplant, 94
Stuffed Peppers, 31, 42
Stuffed Squash, 97
Tarragon, 18
Tarragon Sauce, 120
Thyme, 18
Tomat o And Cucumber Sauce,
118
Tomat o And Lettuce Salad,
104
Tomat o And Wi ne Sauce, 118
Tomat o cocktail, 26
Tomat o Cream Sauce, 6
Tomat o Gravy, 40, i n
Tomat o juice, 26
Tomat o paste, 26, 80, 81
recipes used in, 31, 34, 40,
44* 45* 48, 53-55* 62, 63, 6$,
68, 69, 73, 75, 76, 83, 86, 87,
90
Tomat o Rarebit, 63
Tomat o Sauce, 53, 117
left-over, 34, 35
Tomatoes, 19
how to conserve, 25-27, 80,
81
42-45, 47, 48, 53, 55, 56, 63,
68, 74, 75, 81, 82, 86, 87, 90,
93* 96, 97*
I 0 2
* 104*
I O
5
113, 117, 118
Vegetable And Cheese Casse-
role, 67
Vegetable Cakes, 33
Vegetables (Ch. 10), 13
amount needed daily, 24
as seasoning, 19, 20
left-over, 30, 31, 33, 41, 67,
71, 76, 77, 105, n 6
Veloute Sauce, i n
Vitamins, 13
chart, 28
Welsh Rarebit, 61
variations of, 62
West Indian Goulash, 93
Wheat germ, 23, 24, 36
Whi t e sauce, 108, 109

Cooking Without Meat - War Guides - 1943

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