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20 ANCIENT ROMAN SITES + 12 WINE rEGIONS IN BULGArIA, CrOATIA, ROMANIA, SErbIA MAPS | GPS | rOUTE PLANNING | ACTIVITIES | INFOrMATION ROMANS AND DANUbE | TOUr OPErATOrS
Table of Content
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Highlights
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along the Roman Emperors Route and the Danube Wine Route
along the Roman Emperors Route and the Danube Wine Route
Wine Regions
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CIP - , 634.8(497 )(036) 338.48(37)(036) SORGES, Jrgen The Roman Emperors Route and the Danube Wine Route / [Jrgen Sorges ; photography Miodrag Bogdanovi ... [et al.]. - 1st ed. Belgrade : Danube Competence Center, 2013 (Belgrade : Lighthouse). - 29 str. : fotogr. ; 30 cm Podatak o autoru preuzet iz kolofona. - Tira 2.000. ISBN 978-86-88595-04-9 a) - - b) , - COBISS.SR-ID 202658828
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Sirmium Colonia Pietas Iulia Pola Pollentia Herculanea and Insullae Pullariae
PULA AND BrIJUNI ISLAND, CrOAtIA
Pula has a 3,000-year-old history. It was conquered by the Romans in 177 BC. Visit the towns landmark, the amphitheatre (also known as Arena), built under the first Emperor Augustus and reconstructed by Emperor Vespasianus. Admire the Arch of the Sergii, erected 2927 BC, the Temple of Rome and Augustus, the Roman city walls, the Gate of Hercules, the Twin Gates (Porta Gemina), ruins of the Small Roman Theatre and feel the slow pace of the old city centre adorned with Medieval and Renaissance buildings, the Byzantine chapel of St Mary Formosa, St. Francis Church and Pula Cathedral. Admire the ancient Roman settlements and villas of the famous Brijuni Islands, Austro-Hungarian fortresses and numerous dinosaur footprints on the island of Veliki Brijun. Observe the flora, fauna and sea world of the Brijuni National Park and have a walk around the island that was a former summer residence of Josip Broz Tito. See page 19
Kale Fortress
BELOGrADcHIK, BULGArIA
Feel the breeze and enjoy the fantastic panoramic views from the Kale fortress, originally built by the Romans, protected by the massive rocks. Discover the secret tunnel to the downtown mosque. Dont miss the prehistoric drawings in Magura Cave (25 km away) and relax with a good glass of sparkling wine at the Magura Cave Winery, one of the top seven wineries in the Vidin wine region. See page 18
Felix Romuliana
Gamzigrad, Zajear, Serbia
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take a stroll and relax in this well preserved and maintained area. Explore Emperor Galerius palace and admire his porphyry bust in Zajears Archeological Museum. See page 22
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ADRIATIC SEA ARCHEOLOGY ARCHITECTURE BERMET BLACK WINE CONSTANTINE THE GREAT CULINARIAN DELIGHTS CULTURAL HERITAGE DANUBE RIVER GOLD GOURMET EXPERIENCE MARBLE MICROCLIMATE MUSEUMS ROMAN STATUES ROMANTIC CITIES SENSATIONS, SOIL, SUN TERROIR TRAJAN TREASURES PROMENADES RIVER BANKS FOUR COUNTRIES VINEYARDS WINE CELLARS WINE TASTINGS WINE ROUTES
6 THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUTE
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EMPErOrS cONNEctED wItH tHE DANUBE rEGION, tHE ROMAN EMPErOrS AND tHE DANUBE WINE ROUtES
8 AD: Roman author Ovid (Publius Ovidius Naso; 20 March 43 BC 17 AD) is exiled by Augustus to Tomis (today: Constanta, Romania) and dies there. He is the first to mention the Roman Navy Fleet on the Danube (12 AD). From 33 AD: Romans build roads, strongholds and fortresses along the new Danube military border line. Cities of Celtic origin such as Singidunum (today: Belgrade, Serbia) or Noviodunum (today: near Isaccea, Romania) are fortified. A total of 100 Roman military sites and settlements have been identified along the Danube, from Croatia to the Black Sea (Romania, Bulgaria). 8788 AD: Emperor Domitian leads a military campaign against the Dacians (today Romania). Five legions are ambushed and defeated by the Dacian king Decebalus (rules: 87106; original name: Diurpaneus) at Tapae. In 88, the Romans are defeated again at the same location. End of 1st century AD: Seven Roman legions (1 legion = 6,000 soldiers) control the new provinces: three in Pannonia, two in Moesia, two in Dalmatia. The Danube military path controls the Danube Limes (Water Limes; today: from Austria to Bulgaria, Romania). Roman Navy Fleet (Classis Pannonica, Classis Histrica, Classis Moesica) controls the river.
from south to north, with military strongholds, valla with wooden palisades. It is extended under Iulius Severus (120126) and finished under Emperor Septimius Severus (193211). 108109: Tropaeum Traiani, a Roman memorial of victory and defeat, is erected in the Roman province of Lower Moesia (today: Adamclisi, Constanta County, Romania). The structure, inspired by the mausoleum of Augustus in Rome, is inscribed with the names of 3,000 legionaries and auxiliary soldiers who died in the battles of Tropae. The monument is restored in 1977. Archeological artefacts are displayed in the nearby museum. 117138: Emperor Hadrian (Publius Aelius Traianus Hadrianus Augustus; 24 Jan 7610 July 138; emperor: 117138), successor and earlier legate of a legion and the governor of Upper Pannonia (today: partly Croatia), orders the dismantling of Trajans Bridge to protect the Empire from invasions. He consolidates the Danube Limes with outposts, watchtowers and fortifications. Roman Empire reaches its peak. Hadrian orders the assassination of Apollodorus of Damascus (65130) after a disagreement over architectural designs. The bust of the architect can be admired in front of the Regional Museum in Drobeta Turnu Severin (Romania). 138161: Time for good wine! During the reign of Antoninus Pius (Titus Fulvius Aelius Hadrianus Antoninus Augustus Pius; 19 Sep 867 March 161; Roman Emperor 138161), people enjoy the most peaceful years in a long time. There are some troubles in Dacia, but no major wars. Antoninus invests in culture, theatres, science and mausoleums. People go to feasts (conviviums) and enjoy great food and wine. 161180: Marcus Aurelius (Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus; 26 Apr 12117 March 180; Roman emperor: 161180, rules with co-emperor Lucius Verus 161169 and with Commodus 177March 180), a philosopher on the throne, favours stoicism. Unfortunately, he has to fight in Parthia and along the Danube to defend the provinces of Upper and Lower Pannonia (today: partly Croatia, Serbia) and Dacia (today: Romania) against the Germanic tribes of Marcomanni, who cross the Danube for the first time in 166. Twelve legions are ordered to protect the Danube Water Limes: four in Pannonia, four in Moesia, two in Dacia, only one in Noricum and one in Raetia. Like Hadrian and Antoninus Pius, he was no friend of the Christians. 180192: Commodus (Marcus Aurelius Commodus Antoninus Augustus; 31 Aug 16131 Dec 192; Roman emperor: 180192, co-emperor 177180), son of Marcus Aurelius, born in purple and assassinated in 192, is one of the most important emperors. Still a boy, he gets the honorary title Germanicus at Carnuntum (today: near Vienna, Austria), during the Marcomannic wars (172). In 178 he is on the Danube front, where Marcus Aurelius dies. In the forthcoming years, the decline of the Empire starts. In 183, he once again fights in Dacia (today: Romania). In his late years, Commodus suffers from megalomania, thinking he is Hercules or a new Romulus. Having faught as a gladiator every day, he is finally poisoned and strangled in his bath by a wrestling partner. The Roman Senate damns him to oblivion (Damnatio memoriae).
201300 AD
193235: Emperor Septimius Severus (Lucius Septimius Severus Augustus; 11 Apr 145 4 Feb 211; Roman emperor: 193211; co-emperor with Caracalla (198 209), and with Caracalla and Geta (209211) starts returning the strength, power and glory to the Roman Empire, but ends in political turmoil and crisis. 212: Emperor Caracalla Caracalla, the eldest son of Septimius Severus (rules: 198217), assassinates brother Geta (rules: 209211) and grants full Roman citizenship to all free people of the provinces. On 8 April 217, Caracalla is assassinated by order of Macrinus (rules: 217218). 244247: Limes Transalutanus (Romania) is left under Emperor Philip the Arab, after the Goattacks by the Goths. 249251: Bad luck on the Danube. Emperor Trajan Decius (Gaius Messius Quintus Traianus Decius; ca. 190 or 200/201June 251; Roman Emperor: 249251), born in Budalia near Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia), losses his son Herennius in a battle against the Goths in Lower Moesia (today: near Plovdiv, Bulgaria). In 251, his own life ends on the battlefield at Aribus (today: Razgrad, Bulgaria). Trajan Decius is the first in the long line of eighteen Roman emperors born in Illyricum. The other emperors born in Illyricum (before Constantine the Great) are Hostilianus (251), Claudius II Gothicus (268270), Quintillus (270), Aurelian (270275), Probus (276282), Diocletian (284305), Maximianus Herculius (286305), and Galerius (305311). The last one builds a palace in Felix Romuliana (today: Gamzigrad near Zajear, Serbia). 271: Emperor Aurelian finally decides to leave Dacia, north of the Danube (today: Romania). Provinces Dacia Ripensis (south of the Danube), Moesia and Scythia (up to the Danube Delta) remain. 27 Feb ca. 272 (or 270280): Flavius Valerius Aurelius Constantinus (Augustus) is born in Naissus (today: Ni, Serbia). He will be Roman emperor (306337; ruling alone from 324) Constantine I the Great, aka Saint Constantine. Mother Helena (246/250 18th of Aug. 330) is of common background, according to archbishop Aurelius Ambrosius of Milan (Saint Ambrose, 340 4th of April, 397 AD) a buona stabularia, well behaving/doing hostel hostess or inn-keeper. She is consort of Emperor Constantius Chlorus and Empress until her politically enforced divorce (289 AD). Father Flavius Valerius Constantius (31st of March, 250 25th of July, 306) is a noble Roman military officer from Moesia Superior (area today: Northern Macedonia, Southern Serbia, Northern Bulgaria, Dobrudja/Romania, Southern Moldova). 276282: Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus (19 Aug 232Sep/Oct 282) strengthens the Danube frontier against Germanic tribes and triumphs against the invading Goths along the Lower Danube (277), earning himself the honorary title of Gothicus Maximus. He establishes wine growing around his birth place Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia), planting the first vineyards on Fruka Gora (Serbia). Unfortunately, Probus is assassi-
nated in Sirmium by his soldiers. They may not have been willing to work in agriculture. 286: Emperor Diocletian (ca. 22 Dec 2443 Dec 311; Roman Emperor 284305) divides the Roman Empire into the Western and Eastern parts, ruling the east. The west goes to Emperor Maximian (250July 310), who rules until 305, and again 306308. He built the most significant palaces that demonstrate the best of old Roman architecture on the eastern side of the Adriatic Sea. 293: Diocletian establishes the Tetrarchy. Flavius Valerius Constantinus becomes co-emperor (Caesar) by formal adoption and is known as Constantius Chlorus. 294: Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia) becomes one of the capitals, the glorious mother of the cities, of the Tetrarchy. Ten Roman Emperors are born in or near the city: Herennius Etruscus (251), Hostilian (251), Decius Traian (249251), Claudius II (268270), Quintillus (270), Aurelian (270275), Probus (276282), Maximian (286305), Constantius II (337361), and Gratian (367383). The last emperor of the reunited Roman Empire, Theodosius I (378395), is proclaimed emperor in Sirmium. As well, the usurpers Ingenuus and Regalianus declared themselves emperors in this city (in 260).
(249565 AD)
Trajan Decius ruled: 249251 Hostilianus ruled in 251 Claudius II Gothicus ruled: 268270 (either from Illyricum or Moesia Superior, Thrace) Quintillus ruled in 270 Aurelian ruled: 270275 (either from Dacia ripensis, Dacia or Illyricum) Probus ruled: 276282 Diocletian ruled: 284305 Maximianus Herculius ruled: 286305 Galerius ruled: 305311 Constantine I the Great ruled: 306337 Maximinus Daia ruled: 308313 Jovian ruled: 363364 Valentinianus I ruled: 364375 Valens ruled: 364378 Gratian ruled: 375383 Valentinianus II ruled: 375392 Marcianus rule:d 450457 (either from Illyricum or Moesia, Thrace) Leo I ruled: 457474 Anastasius I ruled: 491518 Justin I ruled: 518527 (either Thracian or Illyrian, born in Moesia, Thrace) Justinian I ruled: 527565
101200 AD
101102: Trajan (Imperator Caesar Nerva Traianus Divi Nervae filius Augustus; 18 Sep 539 Aug 117; emperor: 98117) conquers the Kingdom of Dacia (today: Romania) in two wars. During the first military campaign (25 March to May 101), Trajans troops cross the Danube and defeat the Dacian army, again at Tapae (today: near the Iron Gates of Transylvania, Romania). Decebalus, also known as the Brave, launches counterattacks. Trajan returns and forces him into a peace deal and to pay tax. 103: Pannonia is split into two provinces: Upper Pannonia and Lower Pannonia. Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia) becomes capital of Lower Pannonia. 103105: Apollodorus of Damascus builds Trajans Bridge over the Danube. The bridge ruins can be seen near Drobeta Turnu Severin (Romania) and 4 km away from Kladovo (Serbia). 105106: Roman victory after the siege of Sarmizegetusa (today: Sarmizegetusa Regia, Romania, a UNESCO Word Heritage Site). The Dacian capital is destroyed, Decebalus commits suicide. In the 20th century, he is commemorated with Europes tallest stone sculpture at the Iron Gates of the Danube. Trajan builds a new capital Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Traiana, 40 km away from the old one. A memorial plaque, Tabula Traiana, commemorates the completion of Trajans military road at the Iron Gates. Trajan creates a first tow path and a ship canal, too. Trajans Column (Rome, completed in 113 AD) records the triumph of Trajans campaign in detail. 106109: Colonia Ulpia Oescus (today: village of Gigen, Bulgaria) becomes one of the biggest Roman settlements along the Lower Danube. 107: Limes Transalutanus is built in what is Romania today. The 235 km long border runs
301400 AD
25 July 305306: Constantine I (the Great) takes over the power. 311: Emperor Galerius (around 260Apr/May 311, Roman Emperor 305311) launches an early edict of toleration concerning Christians in Ulpia Serdica (today: Sofia, Bulgaria), which is proclaimed in Nicomedia (today: Izmir, Turkey). 29 Oct 312: In hoc signo vinces! Constantine I beats his rebellious co-emperor Maxentius at the Milvian Bridge, outside Rome. Eusebius describes the Christian sign in battle as Chi () and Rho ():
Feb 313: Edict of Milan Emperor Constantine I, ruling the West, and co-emperor Licinius, ruling Balkans and the East, meet in Milan and agree to treat the Christians well. 8 Oct 314: Constantine I wins the battle of Cibalae (today: Vinkovci, Croatia) against co-emperor Licinius (263325, emperor: 308324). 18 Sep 324: Battle of Chrysopolis; Licinius, co-author of the Edict of Milan, is defeated by Constantine I and executed (325). Constantine I ends the Tetrarchy and rules alone. 322: To fight the Goths, Constantine I builds the earthworks of Limes Sarmatiae (today: Devils Dykes, stretching through Hungary, Romania, Serbia), using an earlier defence system of Marcus Aurelius during the Marcomannic Wars. In 322, the Constantines Wall (today: Brazda lui Novac, visible today in Ploieti, Romania) is built beyond the Danube and runs south from todays Drobeta Turnu Severin to the east. 326: Constantine I orders the assassination of his eldest son Crispus (305? 326) and his
AND THE
1100 AD
69 AD: Great Illyrian Revolt: Romans divide the province into Pannonia (north) and Dalmatia (south, today: Croatia) in 10 AD. The term Illyricum remains. In the late Roman Empire it is used for all Roman Balkan provinces along the Danube.
wife, Flavia Maxima Fausta (ca. 289 298 until 326; daughter of Emperor Maximian). Distant relatives will be killed later on. 326328: Helena (Saint Helena), the mother of Emperor Constantine the Great, travels to the holy places in Palestine and discovers the relics of the True (Holy) Cross. 5 July 328: Constantine the Great attends the official opening of the new Danube stone bridge connecting Ulpia Oescus (55 km northwest of Pleven, Bulgaria) and Sucidava (today. Celei, Romania). Constantines Bridge is in use just for 40 years, due to the fear of invasions. Constantine I calls his imperial palace in the city of Serdica (today: Sofia, Bulgaria) my Rome. 324330: Constantine is thinking of making Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia) the new capital city of the Eastern Roman Empire, but changes his mind. He chooses Byzantium instead, naming it Constantinopolis (Constantinople). After six years of work, the city consecration day is on 11 May 330. This decision starts a Christian period (Eastern Orthodoxy) in the provinces as well, until the final fall of Constantinople in 1453. 22 May 337: Constantine the Great dies near Nicomedia. Shortly before his death he is baptized. Nevertheless, he is nominated Divus as well, following the old Roman tradition of divine consecrations of Roman emperors. Until 363: Rule of the Constantinian Dynasty continues through Constantine and Faustas sons Constantine II (337340), Constantius II (337361) and Constans (337350). Their private residences are in Mediana (today: 5 km away from Ni, Serbia). 351: Battle of Mursa Major (today: near Osijek, Croatia); Constantine II fights against the usurper of the Western Empire, Magnentius. One of the most crucial battles in Roman history, over 55,000 soldiers die, two thirds of the troops of Magnentius (25,000), and half of the army of Constantine II (30,000), who wins the battle. 361: Julian (Flavius Claudius Julianus Augustus; 331/33226 June 363) takes over. Known as Julian the Apostate or Julian the Philosopher, he is the Caesar of the Western Empire from 355 and acclaimed Augustus after an uprising in Lutetia (today: Paris, France) by his soldiers (360). In 361, he travelled the entire Danube course from Viana (today: Ulm, Germany) to Sirmium to fight Constantius II. 363364: After the sudden death of Julian in the Sassanid War, Jovian (Flavius Jovianus Augustus; 331 17 Feb 364) is proclaimed emperor by the soldiers. The former commander of the imperial bodyguards was born in Singidunum (today: Belgrade, Serbia). During his short rule, he re-evokes the edicts of Julian and re-establishes Christianity as state religion. He dies in his bed in a tent, very likely from the poisonous carbon monoxide from the warming fire. 364375: Emperor Valentinian I (32117 Nov 375), born in Colonia Aurelia Cibalae in Pannonia Secunda (today: Vinkovci in Vukovar-Syrmia County, Croatia), is the last Roman emperor to carry out military campaigns on both banks of the Danube. With his brother 10 THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUTE
and co-emperor Valens, Valentinian fortifies the settlements along the Danube. 375376: Having been beaten by the invading Huns, the Goths cross the Danube at Durostorum (today: Silistra, Bulgaria) and invade Roman provinces. 9 Aug 378: Battle of Adrianople (today: 13 km north of Edirne, Turkey). Emperor Valens (328 378) is defeated by the Visigoths and looses more than 20,000 soldiers. The battle is part of the Gothic War (376382), which initiates the collapse of the Western Roman Empire. Until 395: Emperor Theodosius I (Flavius Theodosius Augustus; 11 Jan 34717 Jan 395), also Theodosius the Great (379395), allows the Goths to settle south of the Danube in Illyria. In 391, he declares Christianity the official state religion. He is the last emperor to rule both the West and the East, before dividing it: Raetia, Noricum, and Pannonia belong to the West, Moesia, Dacia, Thracia and Scythia belong to Constantinople. Greek becomes the official language of the Constantinople court and in the 5th century for Christians as well. In 7th century, Greek is the official language of the Eastern Empire.
spreads all the way up to Scandinavia and Ireland. It is one of the greatest in history (25 million people die worldwide). 567: Lombards leave Pannonia in fear of Avars and settle in todays Northern Italy. 579582: Battle of Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia). Avars besiege the fortified city and win. In forthcoming years, they conquest and plunder all Eastern Roman settlements along the Danube to Tomis (today: Costanta, Romania) assisted by their new allies (Slavic tribes). 593595: The Danube cities are re-conquered for the Eastern Roman Empire by general Priskos, who has his headquarters in Singidunum (today: Belgrade, Serbia). Successful peace talks on the Danube island of Singa (near Vina, the Iron Gates of the Danube). Peace in 598. 599602: Emperor Maurikios of Constantinople crosses the Danube at Viminacium (today: near Kostolac, Serbia) to fight the Avars, but does not succeed and is assassinated. The Danube Limes and Roman power (Orbis Romanus) come to their end. 750: Another disastrous plague epidemic emerges. It is the last one. There will be no more plague in the Byzantine Empire and the Balkans until 14th century. 6th to 9th century: Following the Avars (they were called Avars in respect of their long hair), Slavic tribes and Bulgars enter from North Eastern Europe the Balkans regions. A strong sign of this period are the relics of the so called Trajans Wall (Valul lui Traian in Romania), three main linear earth fortifications (valla) found in Moldova, Romania, and Ukraine. Contrary to the name Romans and especially Emperor Trajan are not responsible for these fortifications, which protected the land between the Danube and the Black Sea from invasions. The Small Earthen Dyke (61 km long), extends from Cetatea Ptulului on the Danube to Constana. The second vallum, the Large Earth Dyke (54 km long), starts on Danube, follows the Carasu Valley and ends at Palas, west of Constana. The third, the Stone Dyke, is made of earth, but has a stone wall on its crest (59 km long) and extends from south of Axiopolis to the Black Sea coast (all Romania). 29 May 1453: Ottomans besiege Constantinople and end the Eastern Roman Empire.
4011453
410: Rome is sacked by Visigoths, under the command of Alaric I. 400412: Uldin, chieftain of the Huns, appears on the Danube and attacks Thrace with thousands of Germanic allies. After being an ally to the Western Roman Magister Militium (leading military general) Stilicho against the Goths, he tries to overrun the Roman Province of Moesia in 408 but is pushed back north of the Danube. The Eastern emperor Theodosius II (408450) improves the Roman fleet on the Eastern Danube which successfully controls the Roman border (Danube Limes). Uldin dies in 412, the Huns divide into three major groups. 441: Big parts of the Danube provinces fall under the Huns. King Attila (434453) reigns in Pannonia (today: Hungary). 470: Goths finally leave Pannonia, Germanic Lombards arrive. 476: Having moved to the Balkans in search of new settlements, Germanic tribes overrun and destroy the Western Roman Empire. The emperors move to the new capital, the city of Ravenna. 515: While Illyrian bishops withdrew from Rome in the 5th century, forty Illyrian bishops from the Western Balkans declare their renewed loyalty to Rome and the Catholic Church a milestone in the forthcoming Christian history of the Balkans. Until 565: Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Emperor Justinian I (Flavius Petrus Sabbatius Justinianus Augustus; ca. 48214 Nov 565; emperor: 527565), tries to re-establish the Western Roman Empire and succeeds, but only partly. Known as Justinian the Great, he is the last emperor to speak Latin as a first language. He is the last to fortify the Danube Limes, especially Singidunum (today: Belgrade, Serbia), and Viminacium (today: near Kostolac, Serbia). A bubonic plague ends all revival. The Black Death of 541542 sweeps the Balkans and
The Romans decided early to use the Danube as a natural barrier, frontier and a border. In addition, the Danube waters saved lots of energy and money. The Germanic Limes (Limes Germanicus) ended near the city of Regensburg (Germany) on the left (northern) bank of the Danube, protecting the Roman provinces of Germania Inferior and Raetia. The Danube was to become the water limes for the provinces further east: Noricum, Pannonia, Moesia and Scythia to the Danube Delta. These new Danube Limes, or Ripa Danuvii, became the longest and biggest structure ever built in Europe. Efforts are now being made to get the ruins of the Danube Limes on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It was protected by the limes road, a typical military road along the southern bank of the river, most of it built under Domitian and Trajan but finally completed under Emperor Caracalla. The early Roman military camps on the river bank were built all the way to the cities, and fortified and walled strongholds and fortresses (castra) were established. Today, more than one hundred Roman settlements along the Danube have been identified. They were added numerous watch towers and signal posts, built within just 2 km. However, it was the Imperial Roman Navy that had the real control over this water border with the unknown, undiscovered areas: marine superpower, consisting during Emperor Diocletian of 64,000 men. Part of it became the famous Danube Fleet (Classis Histria)-the earliest records of it go back to 20 BC10 AD. The fleet was divided into three parts: Classis Germanica, Classis Pannonica, and Classis Moesica. The Pannonian Fleet (Classis Pannonica) operated from its headquarters in Carnuntum (today: east of Vienna, Austria) and Tauronum (today: Zemun, municipality of Belgrade, Serbia) near Singidunum (Belgrade), where the 4th Roman legion was based. The most threatened was the Lower Danube with more than 1,000 km to be defended. This longest part of the water limes was at first defended by two legions, and under Emperor Marcus Aurelius by four legions.
This section of the Danube was where the Flavian Fleet of Moesia (Classis Flavia Moesica) was established and operated from 20 BC to 10 AD. It covered not only the river from the Iron Gates up to the Danube Delta, but also along the northern coast of the Black Sea up to the Crimea (from 41 AD). Flavia, the honorary title, was also given to the Pannonian Fleet in 75 AD by Emperor Vespasian. Its headquarters were originally at Novidunum (literary: new fortified settlement on the Danube, today: Isaccea, Tulcea County, Dobruja, Romania). In 85 AD, Domitian moved the headquarters to Sexaginta Prista, the city of sixty ships (today: Ruse, Bulgaria). This naval centre, established by Vespasian in late 69 and early 70 AD, was rebuilt and heavily fortified around 250 AD, after the attacks by the Goths, and destroyed in the 6th century by the Avars and Slavic tribes. Other important anchors of this fleet were at Novae (today: 4 km east of Svishtov, Bulgaria), Ulpia Oescus (today: 55 km northwest of Pleven, Bulgaria) and Tomi (today: Constanta, Romania). The main role of the Danube Fleet which, in addition to the headquarters had over two dozen ports, marinas and wharfs along the Danube making it a great economic factor was to guarantee Roman peace (Pax Romana) through border control. It also played a big role in the logistics for the legions, transporting food, weapons and troops. Finally, as was the case during Trajans campaigns against the Dacians, they had to support and help the legions during the war. These disciplined marines of the Classis Histria had an ambitious plan: each kilometre (or rather, Roman mile) of the river had to be checked out once a day. This Herculean work functioned perfectly until 350 AD. Even during the rule of Marcus Aurelius, who had to fight Marcomannic wars several times along the Danube (from 166 AD). The Imperial Roman Navy also crossed the Danube to the north. It defended bridgeheads and toeholds along the northern banks, inspected buffer zones and helped the legions to protect new lime earth walls in province of Dacia.
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IN tHE HEArtLANdS Of tHE ROUtE: A ONE-wEEK ROUNDtrIP tO ROMAN AND OENOLOGIcAL TrEASUrES OF tHE MIDDLE AND tHE LOwEr DANUBE
South. Sirmium (today: Sremska Mitrovica, Serbia), on the banks of the Sava, was not only the capital of the province and the Empire but also a trading focal point where the North, the South, the West and the East met. Navy marines spent their pay in the civilian parts of naval city bases, the cabanae (named after simple pubs and brothels for soldiers), increasing the total economic turnover. After their military service was completed, they settled along the Danube.
ware exhibits prove that there used to be at least two Roman glassblowing workshops on this location. Finally, there is a turibulum, a vessel for burning incense. Dont leave without one of the three new English language brochures and Sarmizegetusa will stay in your mind for ever. A tongue twister will be your new evergreen. On the way to the Danube, stop at one of the restored village churches along the road. Their facades are often decorated with frescoes. The one in Bautar, 8 km outside Sarmizegetusa, is dedicated to St Elijah and is absolutely wonderful. Before crossing the Danube, relax at Baile Herculane, the old Austro-Hungarian Hercules Baths (Herkulesbad). Follow the signs to the statue of Hercules on Hercules Square in the old town. The Hotel Ferdinand is right there too, great for the lovers of fine wining and dining. Walk around and youll find the spas the Romans used 2,000 years ago. Have a walk by the Hercules bas-reliefs and see the ruins of the Roman aqueduct on the river bank.
of its kind in Europe. You can also see it from the Kladovo side of the Danube, after visiting Roman Diana fortress. The Continental Hotel in Drobeta also organises the Danube cruises (cost in 2013: 8 per person; info: reservation. drobeta@continentalhotels.ro). Whichever way you decide to do it, waltzing the Danube at the spectacular Iron Gates is a must! Another must is the Drobeta Regional Museum (2013: in reconstruction), where there is also a new Archaeological Park. Visit the ruins of the medieval church and Trajans Bridge, designed by Apollodorus of Damascus and built in 102105. You can see the bust of the architect in the park. Time permitting, step into the Orthodox St Georges Church, located at the top end of Independence Road. Better yet, check out the Vinju Mare Winery, just 25 km northwest of Drobeta. Once in the village, follow the signposts to Crama (wine cellar) Vinju Mare and make sure to do the wine tasting (6090 minutes). Treat yourself to the dry red wine Prince Vlad Feteasc Neagr (Black Feteasca) Grand Reserve 2011, it comes with the formidable 14 % alcohol. Only 10,000 bottles of this rare wine are sold a year, and it deserves a special Cheers! (or Norok! in Romanian). The dry Merlot Ros (13.5 %) is outstanding too. It was awarded a gold medal at Cannes, France, in 2012. Brochures in English are available. Ask Adriana Streche or Daniel Alexandru for a short excursion to the vineyards, especially the recently planted Gypsies Hill.
13
Katowic
Rzeszw
Krakw Hradec Krlov is also famous for its Mona Lisa-like ancient-Ro- Neolithic and Early Bronze Age paintings on the man tomb fresco. Dont miss the only restaurant cave walls made of bat guano. Wrap up warm! in Rajake Pimnice and enjoy traditional Serbian The temperature here is only 12C. Pardubice dishes with the Traian or Ostrava Gamay wines (barri- The Magura Bat Gallery is where youll meet Praha (Prague) que) of the Negotinska Krajina wine region. oenologist Dr Ognyan Tzetanov and Adriana Plze A trip to Vidin, Bulgaria, is short and easy. You Srebrinova, independent wine consultant and Olomouc are now in the triangle of Serbia, Romania and wine maker, and test the dry sparkling wine Bulgaria. Vidin offers excellent accommodation Magura, a 2006 Cuve du Nord of Rendezof vous wine series, whose 2003 vintage was Jihlava (e.g. Hotel Anna-Kristina) and a wide range Zilina attractions. Walk through the Vidin River Park awarded a silver medal at the Decanter World Preov Zlin along the Danube Brno and discover the new health Wine Awards. While you are there, why not path (donated by the British Embassy in Bulgar- taste a grape brandy too, Vrachanska Temenuia). Before you stop for a drink (at the Paradise ga or Magurska? You wont be disappointed. esk Budjovice beautiful royal gold jewellery dating back to the Bar, for example), have a short walk to theBaba Before continuing to Pleven, consider Kovisiting ice Tren n reigns of Emperors Galerius and Maximinus Vida fortress, nowadays often used by film mak- the nearby Vragansky Balkan Nature Park at Bansk Daia. At present, there are ongoing excavations ers. Even Hollywood likes the ancient walls dat- Vratska. It is aBystrica great place if you like hiking or of the Roman settlement Selite. ing back to the Roman times, when Vidin was mountain-biking. The Natura Visitor Centre is in If you are a wine lover, you simply must re- known as a Roman fortress and the city of Bon- the Old Mosque. Trnava serve an entire afternoon for Rajake Pimnice nonia. Since 2013 Vidin has been connected Nitra to Before entering Pleven and visiting Pleven Epoand Rogljevske Pivnice, both candidates for the Romania Bratislava via a new bridge over the Danube. poe (Panorama) and the Regional Historical UNESCOLinz World Heritage List. Visit the restored Begin the next day with an excursion to the fan- Museum, follow the signs to Ulpia Oescus at Sankt Wien stone buildings and cellars, countPlten old barrels, tastic Kale Fortress of Belogradchik, a UNE- Gigen village. This is the place where Emperor check out the viticulture tools and portraits of the SCO World Heritage Site candidate, also nom- Constantine the Great personally attended the patron saint of wine makers, St Trifun, or simply inated in the 2009 campaign for the new Seven opening of a brand new bridge across the Danube, enjoy modern art on display. Tihomir, Mirjana and World Wonders. The nearby Roman outpost aptly named Constantiness Bridge, on 5 July Salzburg her father Bata Petko will show you the local wineEisenstadt Latin Fortress is part of the famous Belograd- 328 AD. Today, the ruins of this biggest ever RoBudapest museum and the cellar where all the wines are chik Rocks. The earliest structure was of Roman man stone bridge on the Danube can only be seen aged for minimum 7 years. Dont be surprised origin (1st3rd century). In 2014, a new road will on the Romanian side, in Celei, once a Roman if Bata Petko opens a secret door. You will see take tourists to the Visitor Centre and enable easy fortress of Sucidava. At Oescus, a new excavasome giant mammoth bones, discovered some access for the busses. Spend the afternoon in the tion campaign started in 2013, to be completed in years ago in southern Serbia. If you are interest- Magura Winery & Cave. Situated next to the 2020. You can have a chat with the archaeologists ed in mammoths, go to the Roman site of Vimi- beautiful lake Rabisha, the 15-million-year-old and students here, who will be delighted to show Graz nacium where a 5million-year-old skeleton of a Magura Cave was restored in 2011. There are you around the site. Ask them to show you the mammoth was discovered in 2009. Viminacium no mammoth skeletons here but there are some beautifully restored Roman well and the Fortu-
ovy Vary
CZECH REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
AUSTRIA
HUNGARY
Ternopil na Temple. Wine enthusiasts must go to the only ful inn-keeper? Speaking of inns, do enjoy the Bulgarian wine museum in Pleven to see its selec- outstanding Serbian cuisine in local restaurants, Khmelnytskyy with some of the best wines tion of 7,000 special Bulgarian wines (the oldest and wet your throats ones are from 1912) and the exhibition of Bulgar- to be found along the Serbian wine routes. ian wine history. Taste the native Bulgarian grape The old Roman capital Sirmium, today SremsMavrud, which has been cultivated for 3,000 ka Mitrovica, will probably be one of the highyears. Luciano Pavarotti was a fan. You should lights of the trip. The new Visitor Centre at the Ivano-Frankivs'k also taste Emporion, a Cabernet & Mavrud blend Imperial Palace offers information and excelfrom the nearby Chateau Kaylaka. A rakia dis- lent guided tours of historic monuments and even tillery (late 19th century) is not to be missed either. of the local coffee shops and restaurants. Enjoy a glass of Chardonnay or a Bermet from one of the Chernivtsi wine cellars (podrums) of Fruka Gora. See Palaces and Cellars the miniature model of ancient Sirmium and the Uzhhorod Be prepared, crossing the Bulgarian-Serbi- mosaics. Visit the Archaeological Museum and an border may take some time. But it is worth admire Venus of Sremska Mitrovica. Check out the wait, as Bora Dimitrijevi, the brilliant di- the Avar golden belt. Avars were the ones who rector of Felix Romuliana in Gamzigrad, near ended the Roman presence here in 582 AD. You Zajear, will guide you through the ruins of the can also see the replicas of ancient goldbars. The palaces of Emperor Galerius and his mother gold originates from the Dacian mountains, situand share with you some interesting details of ated north of Sarmizegetusa. Roman life. Dont miss the National Museum When you arrive at Ilok, Croatia, former Roand its fabulous labyrinth mosaic. Visit the spas man cavalry fort Cuccium, you must visit the in Gamzigradska Banja, like the Romans did. Old Wine Cellar (Stari podrum). Ask for the Further south, in Ni, in the ancient Roman city outstanding Traminer, especially Traminac of Naissus, everything revolves around Emperor Premium 2011 (Premium Traminer), awarded Constantine the Great. This is where he was a gold medal in Paris 2012. You can also go to born. Check out the attractions near the Ottoman the new Wine & Tourist Centre Ilok-Sirmium fortress. The main Roman site, however, is the or visit a smaller winery, such as the one run by Mediana, where around forty Roman villas used the Stipeti family. Paula Stipeti hosts the wine to be, including the Imperial Palace of Emper- tasting. Have a glass of the famous Graevina or Constantine and his sons. Did you know that made from Welschriesling or Italian Riesling Constantines mother Helena (also known as St varieties. As Ilok is on the crossroads of the DanHelena, St Helen, Helena Augusta) was not of ube Bike Trail and the hikers Sultans Way, noble origin but a buona stabularia, a success- many bikers and hikers join guided tours or visAlba Iulia Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa
103 km (1h 24min)
L'viv
Vinnytsya
it local hotels and restaurants here. There is the Principovac hotel and restaurant in the former residence of the Odescalchies, the Italian noble family. You may play some golf here too. The Hotel Dunav on the bank of the Danube offers great hospitality and wonderful sundowners on the Danube. Ask for a classic dish, the Danube fish soup, or even better, for poderane gae. Unique for Ilok, they can be savoury or sweet, and their name means torn underpants. You should have them with a glass of Traminer (they serve it in the Old Wine Cellar). Croatia is the home of more outstanding Roman sites Zadar, Split, the ancient Narona, to name but a few. There is one place that is more special than others: Pula, or Pola, as it was known to the Romans , or if you like long names, Colonia Pietas Iulia Pola Pollentia Herculanea. Go to Pula during the film festival and watch movies in the Arena, the former great amphitheatre. See the exhibition Chi inu of Viticulture and Olive Oil Production in Istria during the Roman Period in the subterranean part of the Arena. Sail to the protected Brijuni Islands, one of the many Croatian national parks. This is the place to be for all those who want to relax, sunbathe, swim in the sea, enjoy a good glass of wine with some Mediterranean specialities or learn about the Roman history of the isles. An interesting fact for all the fashionistas out there: the renowned company Brioni that specialises in mens fashion, located in (modern) Rome, is named after these islands. Also, there are 3 villas available for VIP guests, and two hotels offering accommodation.
UKRAINE
MOLDOVA
Ode
Klagenfurt
73 km (52min)
SLOVENIA
Ljubljana
Trieste
267 km (2h 28min)
Varadinske Toplice
Zagreb
itarjevo
17 km (35min)
CROATIA
Ilok
Baile Herculane
Sremska Mitrovica
Drobeta Turnu-Severin
35 km (33 min) 29 km (27 min) 270 km (4h 9min)
Nin
17 km (21min) Zadar 158 km (1h 37min)
Beograd (Belgrade)
Corcova
Mare
SERBIA
307 km (3h 3min)
Negotin
41 km (47 min)
23 km (23 min)
Vidin
59 km (52 min)
Magura Cave
Belogradchik
208 km (3h 3min)
Ni
Ancona
Itinerary proposal for Sofiya travelling along the Roman Emperors Route and the Danube Wine Route (Sofia)
MONTENEGRO
Fly in Sibiu - Day 1 Romania - Roman heritage location Alba Iulia Roman heritage location Colonia Ulpia Traiana Augusta Dacica Sarmizegetusa - Optional overnight stay: old Roman spa Baile Herculane - Day 2 Romania, Serbia, Bulgaria - Drobeta Turnu Severin - Vinju Mare Vinery and/or Corcova Vinary (Muntenia and Oltenia Hills vine region) - Negotin - Rajacke and/or Rogljevske pimnice (Negotinska krajina wine region) Optional overnight stay: Vidin (Bulgaria) - Day 3 Bulgaria - Vidin - Roman heritage location Kale fortress of Belogradchik - Magura Winery
Skopje
ROMANIA
Bucuresti (Bucharest)
Danube
4
Sibiu
Da nu be
Pleven
BULGARIA
& Cave - Roman heritage location Ulpia Oescus - Optional overnight stay: Pleven - Day 4 Bulgaria, Serbia - Pleven - Chateau Kaylaka winery (North - Central wine region) - Optional overnight stay: Zajear (Serbia) Day 5 Serbia, Croatia - Roman heritage location Felix Romuliana - Ni - Sremska Mitrovica - Roman heritage site Sirmium - Old Wine Cellar (Stari podrum)(Ilok wine region, Croatia) - Optional overnight stay: Ilok - Day 6 Croatia - Ilok - Zagreb - Optional overnight stay: Brijuni Islands Krklareli Day 7 Croatia - Brijuni Islands - Pula Edime Istanb AND tHE DANUBE WINE ROUtE 15
esk Budjovice
SLOVAKIA
Trenn Bansk Bystrica Trnava Nitra Koice Uzhhorod
Chernivtsi
MOLDOVA
Chiinu
Odesa
Linz
Bratislava
Sankt Plten
Wien
Eisenstadt
Salzburg
AUSTRIA
Budapest
Graz
HUNGARY
Roia Montan
Klagenfurt
ROMANIA
SLOVENIA
Ljubljana
Trieste
Zagreb
itarjevo
ub e
Istria
CROATIA
Sremska Mitrovica Kostolac Kladovo
Beograd (Belgrade)
Bucuresti (Bucharest)
Danube
Adamclisi Silistra
Poarevac
SERBIA
Ruse Svishtov
Felix Romuliana
The Roman Legion Camp Novae (Svishtov, Bulgaria) Sexaginta Prista (Ruse, Bulgaria)
A Thracian settlement became a Roman naval centre on the Lower Danube in 70 AD, under Emperor Vespasian. The Roman fortress Sexaginta Prista, a city of 60 ships (sexaginta = 60, pristis = a Greek-style guard ship) became a major river port with anchoring berths and wharfs for the famous Roman Imperial Danube Fleet. It controlled economic and military traffic between the Black Sea and the Iron Gates. The Danube Limes road, connecting Singidunum (Belgrade, Serbia) and the Danube Delta was very important. The fortress is today a part of the Regional History Museum. Its defence walls, tower and barrack ruins are still visible. An inscription is a testimony of the destruction of Sexaginta by the Goths in 250 AD. It was rebuilt and expanded under Emperor Diocletian. It was finally destroyed in the 6th century by the Avars. When visiting the Regional History Museum in the Battenberg Palace, wine enthusiasts should have a look at the famous Borovo Silver Treasure (383359 BC), a ritual wine set of five gold-plated silver items, discovered in 1974. In 2006, the museum added to its collection a bronze helmet (late 4th to early 3rd century BC) of an officer in the army of Alexander the Great. Ruse (population: 150,000) is connected with Giurgiu (Romania) via a bridge over the Danube, built in 1954. Dubbed Little Vienna, this beautiful city is known for its Neo-Baroque and Neo-Rococo architecture and its many museums. Worth seeing is the birthplace of Elias Canetti, the winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1981, and the nearby rock churches of Ivanovo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Location: 300 km from Sofia, 200 km to the Black Sea; routes E 79, E 70, E 85 and A 2/E 83 from Sofia and Pleven; GPS N 4350`77 E 2557`14.91 Information: Tourist information center, ul. Aleksandrovska 61, 7000 Ruse, Tel./Fax +359 82 824704, http://tic.rousse.bg, www.ruse-bg.eu/en/ Roman Fortress Sexaginta Prista, ul. Tsr Kalolan 2, 7000 Ruse, Tel. +359 82 825004, wwwmuseumruse.com Opening hours: Tue-Sat 9.00-12.00, 12.3017.30; Sun, Mon closed Regional Museum of History, Ul. Alexander Battenberg 3, 7000 Ruse, Tel. +359 82 825006, www.museumruse.com Opening hours: daily 9.00-18.00 Svishtov (population: 35,900) was originally a Roman camp and colony Novae, as mentioned by the ancient geographer, Ptolemy. It was a base camp of the famous VIII Augusta Legion since 45 AD, and of Legio I Italia, 25 years later. A cornerstone of the Danube Limes defence, a series of military campaigns started from here, including the very last Maurices Balkan campaigns (591602), before being destroyed in 613. Originally covering 17 hectares, the later enlarged camp (by 10 hectares) consisted of the legions headquarters, officers residences, baths, barracks and a civil settlement outside the fortified walls of the rectangular camp (485 x 365 m). The northern gate opened to the port. A huge military hospital (Valetudinariam) built under Emperor Trajan and with the Asclepius and Hygeia Temple, provided medical care for 300 wounded legionaries at a time. The most important though was the Principia (headquarters), where statues, a portrait of Emperor Caracalla and a treasure of coins were discovered. The Ostrogoths under Teodoric the Great made it their capital from 476 to 488, having conquered Singidunum (Belgrade, Serbia) in 471 AD. There is evidence of early Christians living in the town that became bishops seat in the late 5th and early 6th century. The archaeological exhibition presents collections of crockery, glassware, bronze artefacts, coins, jewellery, inscriptions and marble sculptures. Go to the Visitor Centre and its computer-animated helpdesk to find out more. The festival of ancient heritage, The Danube Eagle, takes place every year at the end of May. When in Svishtov, the southernmost harbour on the Danube, you can take a Ro-Ro ferry to the Romanian Zimnicea. Location: North Central Bulgaria, 80 km from Pleven, 90 km from Ruse; 251 km from Varna, 237 km from Sofia; Novae archeological area: 2 km east of Svishtov; GPS N 4336`48.85 E 2523`27.54 Information: Council of Tourism, ul. Dimitar Hadjivasilev 2, 5250 Svishtov, Tel. +359 631 60371, Tel./ Fax +359 631 60768, www.visitsvishtov.com, www.svishtov.bg Archeological exposition Novae, ul. Dimitar Shishmanov, 5250 Svishtov, Tel. +359 631 60467, novae@abv.bg, www.visitsvishtov.com/ new/landmarks.php?id=3&info=28 Opening hours: Apr-Oct daily 11.00-21.00, Nov-Mar closed; guided tours (Bulgarian, English, German)
AND THE
Belogradchik
Gigen
Ni
Ancona
Sofiya (Sofia)
Vid
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO
Pogorica
Edime Krklareli
L'Aquila
Skopje
Istanbul
Tirana
Campobasso
MACEDONIA
Komotini
Tekirda
Thessaloniki
ALBANIA
anakkale Kasani
Balkesir
Ioannina Kerkyra
Larisa
Mytilini Manisa
GREECE
Larnia Izmir
Athina (Athens)
Palermo Tripoli
Ermopoli
MALTA
Vallelta
ALONG THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUtE AND tHE DANUBE WINE ROUtE
16 THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUtE
ROMAN SItES
Iraklio
17
Colonia Iulia Iader (Zadar) and Aenona (Nin), Croatia Ulpia Oescus (Gigen, Bulgaria)
Near the confluence of the Iskar and the Danube and an old Thracian village, the first urban buildings were erected during the campaign of Emperor Trajan (106109) on the ruins of the former permanent camp of the Fifth Macedonian Legion (10 AD). Outside the Roman city walls, there are still remains of the stone and soil defence walls, built in 71101. After 271 AD, the legion returned and built a second fortified city (Oescus II). A flourishing town Oescus later upgraded to Colonia Ulpia Oescensium (167 AD) and citizens were granted all Roman rights. The city protected the Danube Limes road and the military road to the present-day Plovdiv (Greek: Philippopolis; Latin: Trimontium). Storgosia (near Pleven) was also built on this road. The majestic Roman ruins in the area (280,000 m) demonstrate the wealth of the city during the rule of the Antonine and Severan dynasties. Near the entrance there are administrative buildings, and there is a perfectly reconstructed Roman well in front of public bath I. Archaeological research in 1904-1905 identified three public thermae and uncovered a perfectly preserved road from bath I to the remarkable Temple of Fortuna (190-191 AD), dedicated to the protector of the city. The statue of Goddess Fortuna is exhibited in the National Archaeological Museum Sofia. The famous mosaic The Achaeans (3rd century AD) was unearthed across the road in 1948 (it is now kept in the Pleven Regional Historical Museum). The forum is dominated by the Temple of Capitoline Triad (Jupiter, Juno, Minerva) and a basilica. Further on, the civilian houses of Oescus II extend. On 5 July 328 AD, Emperor Constantine the Great personally opened Constantiness Bridge, once the biggest stone bridge on the Danube. Its ruins can be seen in Celei, Romania, once a Roman fortress of Sucidava. The bridge was used only for a short period of time. It was dismantled before the Goth invasions (376378 AD). In 411 AD, the Huns destroyed Oescus. Emperor Justinian I tried to re-establish Oescus, but all the efforts were stopped in late 585 and early 586 AD by the Avars. Location: Signposted; village of Gigen: 55 km northwest of Pleven; GPS N 4342`30.6 E 2427`58.84 Information: Regional Historical Museum, ul. Stoyan Zaimov 3; 5800 Pleven, Tel. +359 64 822692 (Secretary), www.plevenmuseum.dir.bg Opening hours (museum/site): 1st of Apr.-31st of Oct. Mon-Sat. 9.30-12.00, 12.30-18.00, Sun closed Toes are us At Nin, touching the big toe of the bronze statue of Grgur Ninski, Bishop and great advocate of old Slavonic language, will bring good luck. Kalelarga, also known as the Wide Street, is a street in Zadar (population: 75,000) that connects Peoples Square with the Forum, the citys main square. It follows the main ancient Roman city road, Decumanus Maximus. Roman urban character is still present on the Zadar peninsula but the first settlers were Liburnians, known as excellent sailors and merchants. Romans came in mid-2nd century BC, adopting the Greek name for the people living here Iadassinoi and calling the settlement Iader/Iadera. The construction of the city started with Emperor Augustus. The Forum (45 x 90 metres), finished in the 3rd century AD, had a capitol in the southwest, with a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. The monumental Roman column was used as the pillar of shame in the Middle Ages. One of the Venetian-style city gates, the Sea Gate, consists of a Roman triumphal arch, erected by Auniana Melia in memory of her husband. Zadars latest attraction, the Museum of Ancient Glass (MAS), has the biggest collection of ancient Roman glassware outside Italy. Nin (population: 1,300) is next to Zadar. In ancient Rome it was called Aenona (also Nona). Romans built a forum, an amphitheatre and the biggest temple on the Dalmatian coast here. Eight statues of Roman emperors have been discovered here. Recent excavations have brought to light a rare Byzantine mosaic (17 x 30 metres) on the floor of a Roman villa. Nin has had a spa since the Roman times. Peloid mud was and is still being used to heal skin diseases. Aenona was destroyed by the Avars and Slavs in the 7th century. Location: Southern Croatia, North Dalmatia; GPS N 446`53.7618 E 1513`44.2266 (Zadar), N 4414`36.654 E 1511`2.8602 (Nin) Information: Tourist Information Centre, Mihovila Klaia 1, 23000 Zadar, Tel. +385 23 316166, www.zadar.travel Archeological Museum, Trg opatice ike 1, 23000 Zadar, Tel. +385 23 250516, www.amzd.hr Opening hours: July-Aug daily 9.00-22.00, June, Sep daily 9.00-21.00, May Mon-Sat 9.00-19.00, Apr Mon-Sat 9.00-17.00, Oct Mon-Sat 9.00-15.00, Nov-Mar Mon-Fri 9.0014.00, Sat 9.00-13.00, Sun closed Museum of ancient glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, 23000 Zadar, Tel. +385 23 363833, www.mas-zadar.hr Opening hours: 16th of June-Sep daily 9.0021.00, Oct-Apr Mon-Sat 9.00-16.00, Sun closed, May-15th of June Mon-Sat 9.00-19.00, Sun closed Tourist office, Trg brae Radi 3, 23232 Nin, Tel. +385 23 265247, www.nin.hr/en/ Museum of Nin Antiquities, Trg Kraljevac 8, 23232 Nin, Tel. +385 23 264726, www.amzd.hr Opening hours: July-Aug daily 9.00-22.00, June, Sep daily 9.00-21.00, May Mon-Sat 9.00-19.00, Apr Mon-Sat 9.00-17.00, Oct Mon-Sat 9.00-15.00, Nov-Mar Mon-Fri 9.0014.00, Sat 9.00-13.00, Sun closed
Amphitheatre Colonia Pietas Iulia Pola (Pula) and Insullae Pullariae (Brijuni Islands), Croatia
Pula (population: 57,800) got its name from a Venetic or Illyrian tribe Histri, who settled here before the Romans. Pola, as it was called by the Romans, became an official colony in 46-45 BC, with the population of 30,000. It became a centre of wine production, fishing, shipbuilding and a major port for all trade with Roman provinces along the Lower Danube. Pulas triumphal Arch of the Sergii (2927 BC) was built in memory of Lucius Sergius Lepidus, a tribune in the 29th Legion and a participant in the sea battle of Actium that made Octavian the first emperor Augustus. The Pula Arena, the citys great amphitheatre (27 BC68 AD), is the symbol of Pula. Gladiators fought here in front of up to 20,000 spectators until the start of the 5th century. Today, it is a venue for open-air summer performances. In the subterranean section, the exhibition Viticulture and Olive Oil Production in Istria during the Roman Period shows the importance of the top quality olive oil and wine production since Roman times. The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary has Roman roots of worship a temple of Jupiter used to be here. The first Christian churches were built on this site in the 4th5th century. Pula had ten city gates, including the Gate of Hercules (1st century AD) and the Twin Gates (Porta Gemina) (mid-2nd century AD). When in Pula, take a stroll around the attractive old city quarter, explore the Byzantine Chapel of St Mary Formosa (6th century AD) and the castle with four bastions. The best preserved is the once richly decorated Roman villa rustica (1st century BC), stretching one kilometre along the Verige bay, on the island of Veli Brijun, the largest island of the Brijuni Archipelago. The Brijuni National Park consists of 14 islands, home to many animal and plant species. Visit the island of Veli Brijun, enjoy the safari park (zebras, Somali sheep, zebus, and an elephant) and explore the island that was once a presidential residence of Josip Broz Tito (18921980), the former president of Yugoslavia. Location: Istria peninsula; GPS N 4452`26.81 E 1350`59.72 (Pula); N 4454`35.15 E 1346`27.46 (Brijuni Islands) Information: Pula Tourist Board (Info Point), Forum 3, 52100 Pula, Tel. +385 52 219197, www.pulainfo.hr Opening hours: daily 8.00-22.00 (summer), 9.00-16.00 (winter) National Park Brijuni, Brionska 10, 52212 Faana, Croatia, Tel. +385 52 525882, 525888, Fax +385 52 521124, 521367, www.brijuni.hr/en/ Pula Arena, Flavijevska bb, 52100 Pula, Tel. +385 52 219028, www.ami-pula.hr/en/collections-on-other-locations/amphitheater/amphitheater/ Opening hours: daily 25th of Act-31st of March 9.00-17.00, Apr 8.00-20.00, May, Sep 8.00-21.00, June 8.00-21.30, July/Aug 8.00-24.00, 1st of Oct24th of Oct 9.00-19.00
Aquae Iassae (Varadinske Toplice) and Andautonia Archaeological Park (itarjevo near Zagreb) (Croatia)
Varadinske toplice (population: 6,400) is known as the oldest Croatian health spa. Hot springs and medical treatments were offered here since the Roman settlement of Aquae Iasae, today the archaeological site of Varadinske toplice. Aquae Iasae was named after the Illyrian tribe Jasi, meaning water of the Jasi. It flourished for 300 years (until the 4th century AD). Public baths (6,000 m) were situated on the terrace of the Varadin hill, a residential area was at the foot of the hill. Goths were the first to interrupt the pleasures of hot springs and relaxing massages in the 3rd century AD. Constantine the Great restored the thermae before the next migrating invaders brought them to their end. Excavations in 1967 unearthed a beautiful statue of goddess Minerva wearing a legionary helmet. Visitors who come here in June will enjoy the annual Aquafest. Roman heritage enthusiasts should also stop by at itarjevo, a village between Zagreb and Velika Gorica, an ancient Roman settlement called Andautonia (1st4th century AD). It used to be an important river port. In 1994 the archaeological park consisting of a Roman town, street, bath house and necropolis opened here. Excavations of Roman artefacts and art workshops for the public often take place in the park. Visiting the nearby Muzej Turopolje (Turopolje Museum) and the Archeological Museum in Zagreb is highly recommended. Location: Varadinske Toplice: Zagorje region, Northeastern Croatia; Andautonia: village of itarjevo, 12 km to Zagreb, 8 km to Velika Gorica; GPS N 4612`29 E 1625`17 (Varadinske Toplice), N 454618 E 1675 (itarjevo) Information: Zagreb County Tourist Information Center, Preradovieva 42, Zagreb. Tel: +385 1 4873 665, www.tzzz.hr Aquae Iasae Tourist office, Trg slobode 16, Stari grad, 42223 Varadinske Toplice, Tel. +385 42 633133, www.toplice-vz.hr, www. varazdinske-toplice.hr Andautonia Archaeological Park, Parish courtyard, itarjevo, 10410 Velika Gorica, www. andautonia.com/eng/english.html Opening hours: 1st of May-1st of Nov Sat, Sun 12.00-18.00, Mon-Fri by appointment. Muzej Turopolje Trg kralja Tomislava 1, itarjevo, 10410 Velika Gorica, Tel. +385 1 6221325, www.muzej-turopolja.hr Archeological Museum in Zagreb, 19 Nikola Subic Zrinski Square, 1000 Zagreb, Tel. +385 1 4873101, www.amz.hr Opening hours: Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10.00-18.00, Thu 10.00-20.00, Sun 10.00-13.00, Mon closed; complimentary museum tour: Sat 15.00 Touch the Toe again twice... Many Split visitors believe in touching the big left toe of Splits monumental, 10 m high statue of Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin). It promotes luck and fortune, as in Nin.
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Colonia Ulpia Traiana Augusta Dacica Sarmizegetusa (Sarmizegetusa, Romania) Narona (Vid, Croatia)
On the banks of the Neretva River, 58 metres above sea level, Greek merchants developed the emporion, a trading place for importing goods to Illyria (4th century BC). Roman armies arrived here for the first time in 156 and then in 135 BC and some of the major military campaigns against the Delmati were launched from the town. Octavian (later Augustus) established a regional administrative centre Colonia Iulia Narona in the 1st century BC. Inscriptions mention various Roman divinities worshiped in Narona (Jupiter, Asclepius, Mercury, Mars, Fortuna, Diana, Neptune, Ceres). A forum, mosaics, parts of marble sculptures (e.g. Emperor Vespasians head), baths and a theatre have been found here during several excavation campaigns from 1877 to 2004. The artefacts are being kept in the Archaeological Museum Narona (2007), Croatias first in situ museum, built on the site of Augusteum-a Roman temple erected around 10 BC in honour of Augustus. It was discovered in 1995 and 1996. There were 19 marble statues of Roman emperors and other members of imperial families in the temple. The monumental statue of Augustus is 3 metres tall! The museum tour extends to the archaeological park where sepulchral and decorative monuments and a mosaic can be seen. Excavations in the Upper Town (Gornji grad) and Lower Town (Donji grad) unearthed Hellenistic city walls (renewed in the 2nd century AD): city gates and six towers on the northern wall and four towers along the southwest wall. Visit the Ere Tower while visiting the city walls. The tower was constructed in 18251851, it contains 40 ancient Latin and two Croatian inscriptions. The Ereove Bare archaeological site is located in the Bare Marsh, west of Lower town. Here, a Roman villa rustica was built in three phases (2nd 5th century). In the 5th century an early Christian single-nave church with a narthex and annexes to the northern and southern sides was built at the site of todays Church of St Vitus (30 x 25 metres), which became a model for the early Christian architecture in the hinterland. Location: 3 km from Metkovic, near Dubrovnik; GPS N 434`52.24 E 1737`41.24 Information: Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board, c/o Dubrovnik Tourist Board, Tel. + 385 20 324999, www.visitdubrovnik.hr/en-GB/Attractions Dubrovnik Tourist Board, Brsalje 5, 20000 Dubrovnik, Tel. +385 20 323887, www. tzdubrovnik.hr/eng/ Archeological Museum of Narona, 20352 Vid, Tel. +385 20 687149, www.a-m-narona.hr/en/ Opening hours: 15th of June-15th of Sep TueSun 9.00-19.00, Mon closed; 16th of Sep-14th of June Tue-Fri 9.00-16.00, Sat 9.00-17.00, Sun 9.00-13.00, Mon closed 20 THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUTE The Roman settlement of Sarmizegetusa (fortress on the top of the hill) should not be confused with Sarmizegetusa Regia, the ancient royal Dacian stronghold (and a UNESCO World Heritage Site), situated 40 km northeast. The new capital Colonia Ulpia Traiana Augusta Dacica Sarmizegetusa developed from a small fort (castrum) of IV Flavia Felix Legion in a strategically important location - near the Gates of Transylvania. Sarmizegetusa became a Roman colonia. Emperor Hadrian honoured Trajan with the new city name Colonia Ulpia Traiana Augusta Dacica Sarmizegetusa. To the existing 33 hectars of the fort, aditional walls (500 x 600 metres) were added forming a rectangular urban area, whilst additional 5080 hectars became the extra muroszone for public monuments, houses, tombs and temples. As the legion moved toBerzovia (in Banat),it did not take long before Colonia DacicaSarmizegetusa became a provincial capital with 25,000 inhabitants, a lot more than in the modern-day village (population: 1,300). The amphitheatre, the only one in Dacia, built under Emperor Antoninus Pius (ca. 160 AD) could accommodate 5,000 spectators. After 271 AD, when Romans left Dacia, the elliptical building was blocked with tombstones, making it a fortress for the remaining inhabitants. Most impressive are the temples of Liber Pater and Goddess Nemesis, the sanctuary of Aesculapius and Hygeia and the Great Temple (43.6 x 34 metres). Two glassblowing workshops were discovered here. The procurator of Dacia ruled from Praetorium Procuratoris. When you pass the granary (horreum) and new excavations at the Northern Gate, you arrive at the Forum Vetus (Old Forum) with a monumental entrance gate, tetrapylon (a monument of a cubic shape with an arched gate on each of the four sides). The Archaeological Museum is currently exhibiting the newly excavated artefacts andreplicas of Roman military equipment, jewellery, pottery and the highlight Medusas Head. Location: 8 km from Iron Gates of Transylvania, 160 km north of Drobeta Turnu Severin; GPS N 4530`59.88 E 2247`08.22 Information: Archeological Site Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, Main road (DN 68), 337415 Sarmizegetusa village, Hunedoara County, Tel. +40 254 776418, www.mcdr.ro Opening hours: daily 8.00-20.00 April-October, 9.00-17.00 November-March Archeological Museum, Main road (DN 68), 337415 Sarmizegetusa village, Hunedoara County, Tel. +40 254 776418, www.mcdr.ro Opening hours: Tue-Sun 9.00-17.00, Mon closed www.cimec.ro/Arheologie/UlpiaTraiana/index.html Daily life in ancient times Archeological Museum of Sarmizegetusa presents also not perfectly shaped Roman dices, most probably used for playing foul tricks on others. An ancient money box, made of pottery, shows the long tradition of money saving in coin banks.
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ALONG THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUtE AND tHE DANUBE WINE ROUtE
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nu Da
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be
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BULGARIA
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L'Aquila Edime Krklareli
Skopje
Istanbul
Wine cellars / vineyards, wine tasting: Magura Cave Bat Gallery, c/o Magura Winery & Cave, 5 Alexandar Pushkin Blvd. (office), 1618 Sofia, Tel. +359 2 8570015, www.magurawinery.bg www.magurawinery.bg Borovitza Winery, 3955 Borovitza, Tel. +359 878 510619, www.winwines.net www.winwines.net Chateau de Val Winery, ul. Parva 201, Gradetz, Tel. + 359 88 8001752, www.chateaudeval.com/en
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MACEDONIA
Komotini
Tekirda
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ActIVItIES
South Banat Region (Vrac area, Serbia)
The soil structure around Vrac (population: 35,000) is very favourable for wine growing. Clay, sandy soil and quartz are perfect for grape ripening. The grapes that are harvested late often come with 35 % sugar content. The moderate continental climate around Vrac is another positive factor. The south-eastern wind koava helps to dry the soil and protects grapes against various diseases. The Vrac vineyards are on the slopes of the Vrac Mountains. They were first mentioned in 1494, when a barrel of Vrac wine was bought for 10.5 golden forints by order of the Hungarian King Ladislaus. In 1718, after the Turks had left, a major migration from the German Rhine Valley, Alsace, Lorraine and the river Moselle brought along wine experts, especially to the village of Gudurica. First Germans settled in three streets specially built for them in Vrac, in 1723. The status of free town in 1804 made Vrac a prosperous city that focused on wine and silk production. In the 19th century the municipality became the biggest viticulture area of that time in Hungary (10,000 hectares under vineyards). The record harvest of 1875 gave a million buckets of wine (1 bucket = 56 litres). The Vraki Vinogradi winery (1,800 hectares) offers a wide range of quality wines (Frankovka, Italian Riesling, Muscat Otonel, White Burgundy; Chardonnay, Rhine Riesling, semi-sweet, late-harvested Italian Riesling). The wine cellar is impressive built in 1964 1967 and Y-shaped, it can store up to 34.2 million litres of wine! Its five galleries contain 580 special concrete tanks lined with glass tiles. The winery is also famous for spirits such as grape brandy (45 %), Muskatna Lozovaa (Muscat grape brandy; 45 %), Vraka Grappa (43 %), and Gold Vinjak (40 %). Vinik Winery produces Vrole Red, Vrole White and Bermetto wine. Krstov Winery, Selecta Stoji Winery, Nedin Winery, AS Winery and Rb Winery are also on the Vrac Wine Route. Location: Vrac: 80 km northeast of Belgrade; 14 km from Romanian border; GPS N 456`12 E 2116`28 Information: Municipality of Vrac, Trg pobede 1, 26300 Vrac, Tel. +381 13 800501 www.vrsac.com/active/en/home.html Wine cellars/vineyards: Kristov Wine Cellar, Veliko Sredite, 26300 Vrac, Tel. +381 64 0889655 Nedin Wine Cellar, Gortanova 22, village of Gudurica, 26300 Vrac, Tel. +381 13 881118 Selecta Wine Cellar Stoji, Otona upania 26, village of Gudurica, 26300 Vrac, Tel. +381 13 881067 Vinik Winery, Novosadska 1, 26300 Vrac, Tel. +381 13 836721, www.dobrovino.com Vraki Vinogradi, Svetosavski trg 1, 26300 Vrac, Tel. +381 13 838025, www.vvinogradi.co.rs 28 THE ROMAN EMPErOrS ROUtE
DANUBE
The best way to experience the Danube, its greatness and power, its changing colours, diverse landscapes and moods is to go on a cruise. Observe the flora and fauna, towns, villages, historic buildings, architectural treasures and monuments from a different perspective from the river. River harbours and marinas welcome travellers stopping to admire the 9,000 years of cultural and historic heritage. There are great regional and local cruising offers for individual boat trips. Learn more! Visit
Cycling?
The Danube Bike Trail offers fascinating views along the meandering banks of the Danube. Discover nature parks, small towns, local wines, dishes and accommodation in local B&Bs. Bike rentals are available in many towns along the Danube. Learn more! Visit
Love cycling but feel like cruising too? Have the best of both worlds and combine the two! This brilliant and brand new offer lets you see the landscapes along the Danube and explore the hinterland. Several specialised tour operators offer this fantastic combination of an active and relaxed (often luxury) holiday on the river. Learn more! Visit
Kayaking / Canoeing?
Canoeing and kayaking may be trendy now but they have a long tradition on the Danube. A very special and highly frequented area is the Danube Delta, but sightseeing by canoe or kayak is also available in Belgrade. If you like rowing and cycling, why not do both? Check out the combined kayak/canoe & bike tours. Learn more! Visit
Bird Watching?
Thanks to a network of protected nature parks, including the Romanian Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Nature Heritage Site, the Danube is the natural habitat for over 300 species of birds. Discover untouched nature and more than 260 species of birds at Kopaki Rit, or more than 200 species of wetland birds and plants at salt pans in the lagoon around Nin in Croatia, or Srebarna Biosphere Reserve in Bulgaria, the home of 150 protected species of birds. Explore the Lower Danube Green Corridor or Europes second largest delta, the Danube Delta, the centre of bird migrations and a paradise for bird lovers. The new UNESCO biosphere reserve, the Mura-Drava-Danube region covers 530,000 hectares and stretches across four countries: Austria, Croatia, Hungary, Serbia and Slovenia. Learn more! Visit
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Hiking?
Long-distance hikers love the Sultans Way, which connects Vienna with Istanbul. There are many attractive regional and local paths, also great if combined with biking, canoeing or driving along the wine routes. Learn more! Visit
City tours?
Explore Zagreb, Split, Ilok, Belgrade, Novi Sad, Drobeta, Bucharest, Vidin, Sofia, Ruse and other towns along the Lower Danube and their abundance of architectural styles, vibrant cultural life, high-quality gastronomy and great tourist infrastructure. Learn more! Visit
Cultural heritage?
Discover fortresses, castles, museums, cathedrals, churches, monasteries, religious sites and thousands of years of history from Ancient Romans, Greeks, Thracians and Slavs to the Ottomans, Austro-Hungarians and Jewish settlers along the Danube. Learn more! Visit
Nature?
Numerous protected nature parks and areas offer unique experiences of the Danubes rich fauna and flora. Visit the Iron Gates, the Danube Delta or some other fascinating area along the Lower Danube. Learn more! Visit
Wellness?
Two thousand years of spa tradition guarantee a top quality spa experience. Many of Roman spas are still operational like Varadinske Toplice/ Aquae Iassae hotel and spa Minerva. Discover the Roman way of life by visiting modern-day baths. Enjoy the latest special wine therapy, the breathtaking Austro-Hungarian and awe-inspiring Ottoman architecture. Learn more! Visit
Classical music, jazz and rock festivals, special Christian feasts, local fairs organised for the first time hundreds of years ago, medieval festivals and those dedicated to the ancient Thracian or Dacian culture are attracting more and more people every year. If you like Christmas atmosphere, check out the lovely Christmas markets. Learn more! Visit
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