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sweet rain

5SKIRTS
EASY
FOR SPRING
TOP TIPS FOR SEWING
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weather resistant fabrics

SPRING 2013

jacket

by KATRIN VORBECk
Project photo on page 57; instructions on page 111 of Stitch Spring 2013.

PHOTO BY LARRY STEIN

INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document

spring 2013

This boxy, straight-cut raincoat is designed to help you stay stylish and dry during spring showers. The box pleat in the back, the piping accent, and the raised waistline make this otherwise sporty coat female and elegant, minus the frill.

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pAgE 1 OF 66

XS-S

2 5/8 yds

Spring 2013

cutting layout

45" lining
XS, S

selvedges
front lining (H)

hood lining (J)

11/11/12

back lining (I) sleeve (E)

fold

Sweet Raincoat 45 Lining sleeve (E) M 2 3/4 yds L-XL 2 7/8 yds

45" lining
M, L, XL

selvedges
front lining (H) sleeve (E) back lining (I)
hood lining (J)

fold

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pAgE 2 OF 66

Sweet Raincoat 60 Laminate - main

Spring 2013

cutting layout

XS-S

2 yds

60" main
XS, S

selvedges
front facing (L)

front bodice (A) hood facing (M) hood (G)

cuff (F)

cuff (F)

lower front (B) back bodice (C)

back neck facing (K)

lower back (D)

Sweet Raincoat 60 main (lamenant) M-L XL 2 1/4 YDS 2 1/3 YDS

11/11/12

fold

60" main
M, L, XL

selvedges
front facing (L)

front bodice (A)

hood (G)

hood facing (M)

cuff (F) cuff (F)

lower front (B) back bodice (C)

back neck facing (K)

lower back (D)

fold

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pAgE 3 OF 66

XL

RIGHT FRONT cut 2 XXxx

spring 2013

RIGHT FRONT cut 2 XXxx

L
XS S M L XL

pattern

GETTINg STARTED BASIC TECHNIQUES AND TERMS

YOULL NEED TO KNOW FOR THE PATTERN YOU HAVE DOWNLOADED.
XL

XL

AssEMBLINg FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT

When preparcut on fold ing to print the pdf, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be None) and check the 2" 2" preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another pdf reader, check for similar settings). 2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" 2". 3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page. 4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up FOLDS the rows and match the ASYMMETRICAL SKIRT dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. RIGHT FRONT Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern cut 2 XXxx is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
XS

PATTERN SYMBOLs + MARkINgs

L

XS

TESt SQUARE

BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT MARks Solid lines indicate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement.
XS S M L XL cut on fold

CUTTINg LINEs Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.

XS S M L XL

PLACE ON FOLD BRACkET This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS fold of the fabric so that SKIRT your finished RIGHT FRONT piece will be twice the size of the pattern cut 2 XXxx piece, without adding a seam.
XL

XL

GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal.
XS S M L XL

XS

LAYOUT, MARkINg + CUTTINg GUIDELINEs

Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, cut two on of fold selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut on the fold are placed on the fold. 4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted. 6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing. 7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed. 8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

cut on fold

NOTCHEs Notches are triangleshaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches. DARTs Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end).
XL

XS

XS

PATTERN DOTs Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pattern paper only, then mark on the fabric cut on fold through the hole. SLAsH MARks A dashed line (sometimes appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.

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pAgE 4 OF 66

1a

3a
neck

7a 5a 2a 6a 4a

8a
SWEET RAIN JACKET

foldline (inverted box pleat)

LOWER FRONT (B) cut 2 lmain (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

foldline (inverted box pleat)

1b

3b

7b 5b 2b 6b 4b

8b

BACK BODICE (C) cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

neck

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pAgE 5 OF 66

neck

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document

BACK LINING (I) cut 1 lining on fold XS, S, M, L, XL
center front

neck

INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

CUFF (F) cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET SWEET RAIN JACKET

spring 2013

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut L

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1c

3c

7c 5c 6c 4c

2c

8c
FRONT FACING (L) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

center front

SWEET RAIN JACKET

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut XL

BACK NECK FACING (K) cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1d

3d

7d 5d 6d 4d

2d

sweet rain

jacket

8d
HOOD (G) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

neck

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1e

3e
SWEET RAIN JACKET

7e 5e 6e 4e

2e

8e 7f 5f 6f 4f
SWEET RAIN JACKET

FRONT LINING (H) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut S

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1f

3f

2f

8f
SWEET RAIN ET HOOD FACIN G (M) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL JACK
HOOD LINING (J) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut M

SWEET RAIN JACKET

SLEEVE (E) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET SWEET RAIN JACKET

foldline (inverted box pleat)

foldline (inverted box pleat)

1g

3g

7g 6g

5g

2g

4g

8g

SWEET RAIN JACKET

LOWER BACK (D) cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

1h

3h

2h

4h

5h
center front

FRONT BODICE (A) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut XS

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1a
SWEET RAIN JACKET

neck

1b

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut L

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1c

1d
neck

1e
SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do no cut S

SWEET RAIN JACKET

1f

1g

1h

2a

2b

2c

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

2d

2e

2f

SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut M

SWEET RAIN JACKET

foldline (inverted box pleat)

foldline (inverted box pleat)

2g

SWEET RAIN JACKET

LOWER BACK (D) cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

2h
SNAP PLACEMENT TEMPLATE do not cut XS

SWEET RAIN JACKET

3a
foldline (inverted box pleat) foldline (inverted box pleat)

3b
SWEET RAIN JACKET
BACK LINING (I) cut 1 lining on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

neck

3c

3d

3e

FRONT LINING (H) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

neck

3f

3g

neck

3h

4a

4b

4c

SWEET RAIN JACKET

BACK NECK FACING (K) cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

4d

4e

4f

SWEET RAIN JACKET

BACK BODICE (C) cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL

4g

4h

FRONT BODICE (A) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

5a

5b

5c

5d

HOOD (G) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

5e

5f

KET HOOD FAC ING (M) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L , XL

SWEET RA I

N JAC

5g

5h
center front

6a

LOWER FRONT (B) cut 2 lmain (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

6b

6c

6d

6e

6f

HOOD LINING (J) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

6g

7a

7b

center front

7c
FRONT FACING (L) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

center front

7d

7e

7f

SLEEVE (E) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

7g

8a

8b

CUFF (F) cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse) XS, S, M, L, XL

SWEET RAIN JACKET

8c
cen

8d

8e

8f

8g