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Koreas holy trinity

Mountains are a fundmental part of both the physical landscape and the cultural fabric here, making hiking an ideal way to connect with the country and its people
Story by Michael Fraiman

March/April 2014

PHOTO: KOREAN TOURISM ORGANIZATION

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Hallasan and Seoraksan each in a distinct region of the country, each accessible year-round, and each harbouring beautifully quirky legends that illuminate aspects of Korean culture. HALLAsAN Jeju natives believe that their ovular subtropical island, Koreas largest and now colloquially referred to as the Korean Hawaii for its popularity among honeymooners, was created by a giant matronly mountain goddess. She is said to have created Hallasan out of nearby rocks she collected, and then gave birth to all the worlds plants and humans by way of a massive gynaecological eruption. According to science this is kind of true: the island was spawned by the now-dormant volcanic peak of Hallasan around 25,000 years ago, though the pregnant goddess spin is debatable. Hallasan is an oddity. It is simultaneously the nations tallest peak and one of its easiest to climb, depending on your choice of route. The crater lake at its top, Baengnokdam (literally White Deer Lake, named for the fable that 100 mountain spirits enjoy riding white deer here), is accessible from only two of the five main routes. They are the northern path, the Gwaneumsa Trail, which starts from the semi-isolated Gwaneum Temple, and the eastern Seongpanak Trail, which is the route best served by public transport. The western and southern trails dont reach the Baengnokdam, gifting them with fewer tourists and more tranquility. On each route, the first 10 kilometres are a breeze, set at a gradual BIRTHMARKS IN BASALT incline only. Some Koreans jog this. Signs of Hallasans volcanic past The middle third is regarded as the abound, making the mountain a most difficult section for its steep and real contrast with the majority of the countrys other major peaks. crumbling stone steps and slippery

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CHINA

NORTH KOREA

Seoul SOUTH KOREA

JAPAN

March/April 2014

PHOTOS: MICHAEL FRAIMAN (TOP RIGHT); KOREAN TOURISM ORGANIZATION X2

Its A LittLE-kNowN FACt thAt RoUghLY 70% oF SoUth KoREA is mountainous. Dotted with temples, they are the setting for ancient tales of mountain spirits, known as san shin (san is Korean for mountain), a critical component of Korean folklore, even today. The result is a people whose very creation myth begins on a mountain, Baekdu, the Korean peninsulas tallest at 2,750 metres, on the border between North Korea and China. An energy-giving life-force is said to flow from Baekdu down to South Koreas ultimate peninsular peak, Jirisan, coursing through an uninterrupted series of ridges known as the Baekdudaegan mountain range: 735 kilometres of continuous slate and rock, the spine of the peninsula. This energy trickles over the ridges and spills into the valleys, down the waterfalls and into the streams that have created and sustained life ever since. It is hard to exaggerate Baekdus importance to the Korean people. North Korean propaganda boasts that Kim Jong-il was born there in a shower of

golden light. This is false: he was THREES NO CROWD HERE On the wildly popular tourist island born in Soviet Russia, but dont tell of Jeju Island, the volcanic peak of the North Koreans.Even south of Hallasan offers a chance at relative the border, pictures of the mountain solitude. are a common sight, despite it lying hundreds of kilometres away in another country. All this is to say that South Koreans care a lot about mountains, and today the vast majority of citizens are wealthy enough to be able to enjoy them by visiting the countrys 21 national parks in some form or other. In almost every Korean closet hangs a breathable Gore-tex shirt of neon green or orange, a solid pair of hiking boots and at least one extendable walking stick. The countrys multi-billion-dollar hiking fashion industry is so absurdly profitable that TV celebrities and famed directors are ensnared in their ad campaigns. Forget taekwondo: hiking is the nations true national sport. It helps that it is all so accessible. No peak in South Korea is higher than 2,000 metres, so none takes longer than a day to summit. Population density and moderate temperatures mean hiking is consistently accommodating and safe: some families climb together every weekend. You dont need a guide as maps (and apps) are often available and, unless you venture off into uncharted wilderness, youre unlikely to come across any dangerous wildlife. Trails are usually well-marked and every significant mountain has a few well-stocked shelters where you can sleep and buy food, water and even gear. With all that in mind, you are ready to strike out and explore. But where to start? The countrys three holiest peaks are also its tallest Jirisan,

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rocks. Two-thirds of the way up, you exit the forest into a wide expanse of lower vegetation from where it takes about an hour more to reach the top. Because of the high chance of thick afternoon fog, park rangers stationed at the Jindallaebat and Samgakbong shelters (each at around 1,500 metres) prohibit anyone from continuing to the peak after 1pm, so rise early unless you plan on staying overnight. J i R is A N The southernmost vertebrae along Koreas spinal chord of a mountain range is Jirisan, a national park sprawled across three provinces and home to nearly 5,000 types of flora and fauna. Vibrantly pink cherry blossom in the spring, thick pine forest and some of the last remaining Asiatic black bears in the world are just three of the parks attractions. Though summiting the highest peak, Cheonwangbong, can be done in a single eight- or nine-hour day from the tiny eastern tourist town of Jungsan-ri, there are enough pounding waterfalls and colourful Buddhist temples scattered throughout the park to justify WINTERS HOARY BREATH an extended two-to-three-day trek from Jirisan (left) and Taebaksan one village to another. (below), show off the stunning T he mo st st re nu ous mu lt i - d ay results of a sharp frost. Despite route begins at Hwaeom Temple in the biting cold, winter trekkers are not uncommon on such peaks. southwest, an historic wooden Korean

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Korean hikers tend to return to Jirisan again and again not just for its visible history and natural beauty, but also because it is so huge . . .
temple that has been home to a priceless collection of Buddhist stone tablets for 1,500 years, which also boasts an impressive three-story stone pagoda and ancient stone lanterns. From there, hikers head up the boulder steps and windy slopes of Tokkibong, then peak-hop along the highest ridges, past various mountain shelters that dot the course at 1,700 metres above sea level, until reaching Cheonwangbong, 1,915 metres high. From there you can descend into Jungsan-ri for a hot bowl of ramen and shots of soju. Korean hikers tend to return to Jirisan again and again not just for its visible history and natural beauty, but also because it is so huge that you could go every weekend for months and always find a new route. The gurgling streams of Guryoung Valley, the sharp-edged Kalbawi (Knife Rock), the enormous Buril Waterfall and the calmness of Cheoneu Temple are scattered around Jiris fringes, each easily accessible from a different small town, each with its own charm.

THREE MORE

Taebaeksan
Close to Pyeongchang, the site of the 2018 Winter Olympics, Taebaek is a definitively winter mountain on the outskirts of a town of the same name. Its so definitively snowy that it hosts the famous Taebaek Snow Festival, a free event held each January that attracts thousands of Koreans who gawk at enormous ice sculptures of Mario and Cinderella and Steve Jobs, or watch a performance of ice nanta, a spin on traditional Korean drum music, only played by chopping machetes into square-foot ice blocks. The mountain is also a popular ski and snowboarding destination, which is nice because its easily accessible by cheap public transit from Taebaek City, but less nice because this means it is often incredibly busy. There are fewer bratty kids at the 1,567-metre-high Janggunbong peak, though, or at the teetering ancient Manggyeong Temple to the bodhisivatta of wisdom, built 1,460 metres up.

PHOTOS: KOREAN TOURISM ORGANIZATION X3

Sinbulsan

A few kilometres outside of Ulsan in the southeast, Sinbulsan is barely more than 1,200 metres tall. The ascent is so steep, though, that park authorities have tethered ropes along most of the smooth rock surfaces, so even casual hikers can feel vaguely intrepid as they pull themselves up. Sinbulsan is best hiked in the spring, when cloud-like cherry blossoms and silver grass are in full bloom, and the stream that cascades down into a series of waterfalls from the top of the mountain is full of life and strength. One major draw here is that the peak is a bit out of the way, especially for non-Korean speakers, though taxis are common and cheap, and once you get there youll have fewer visitors to contend with.

Gayasan
One of Koreas most spiritually and culturally rich mountain parks due to its isolation, Gayasan is so difficult to reach that Haein Temple, nestled deep in a valley, is famous for its precious collection of 80,000-ish wooden blocks that have survived intact from the 13th century. Engraved with Buddhist scriptures, they have withstood a Japanese invasion, North Korean soldiers and a fire that literally burned down the entire temple around them. Its a common pilgrimage spot for spiritual Koreans and a beautiful sight for anyone, not to mention a good place to start a trek eastbound up Mt Gaya itself, 1,430 metres tall and covered with dry forests of pine and fir.

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PHOTOS: DOUG MACDONALD (BOTTOM RIGHT); KOREAN TOURISM ORGANIZATION X2

When to go
All of Koreas national parks are open year-round and are free, though parking and camping fees may apply. Locals like to enjoy the seasonal differences and often make multiple trips to the same mountain during different times of year. That said, the busiest times are the cooler months: the spring of March-April (especially cherry blossom season, which usually falls during the last two weeks of March) and the autumn of September-October, just after monsoon, but before all the leaves have fallen. At these times, the trails can be exceptionally busy. The summer rains are heavy and unpredictable, but its worst in the second half of July. Southern South Korea rarely sees snow in the winter, but expect ice-tipped peaks from November until as late as April across much of the country.

sit at the peak and hide from the sun and wind (this is very common among Koreans). Do use formal campgrounds for overnight stays, though, as camping elsewhere is illegal in most national parks.

What to take
If you want to blend in with the local crowd, spend US$1,000 on the latest outdoor gear: breathable shirts and lightweight synthetic pants, a trekking pole for each hand and a huge backpack filled with a camping stool, a thermos of green tea, a portable gas stove, a bottle of rice wine and some rolls of kimbap or cups of ramen noodles. Otherwise, if the weather is warm, shorts and a t-shirt should do you fine. Dont be surprised if locals offer to share food with you on the trail: hiking is a communal activity here. Shots of the local firewater, soju, may even be offered and note that it is considered rude to reject alcohol if its offered by someone older than you.

Where to stay
Hallasan, Jirisan and Soeraksan, as well as many of the other important mountains, have shelters stocked 24/7 with water and food. Mattresses can be rented cheaply and the cost for a spot in a shelter is under US$10. In the winter, some even sell trekking poles, rain jackets and crampons. Bring your own tent if you want to camp near the foot of a mountain (sites are often some distance from the trail) or even just to

Contacts
The Korean National Park Service (KNPS) has an excellent website in several languages (English site is http://english.knps.or.kr), as well as maps and guides. Spots in shelters can be booked online through them, and you can also find specific contact numbers via their directory. Tel: (82-2) 3279 2700 x1

S E o R A ks A N Only a few kilometres south of the heavily militarized border with North Korea, Seoraksan is South Koreas third-tallest mountain, though it is more correct to view it as a massif or range of related peaks. This is an autumn and winter mountain: in the summer monsoon season, the streams often flood the path. Whatever the season, watch for rare species as Seorak is one of the few places where you can spot the Korean goral, an odd-looking goat-antelope hybrid, as well as the dwarf stone pine, a rapidly disappearing prickly pink shrub threatened by global warming. Seoraks postcard panorama is Dinosaur Ridge, a row of jagged rocks that shoot up in the northeastern corner of the park and truly do resemble the spindly backside of a stegosaurus. Though the path across the ridge has been closed recently, the view from afar is what most Koreans strive for when they climb to the 1,700-metre-tall peak, Daecheongbong. The quickest and most popular route up Daecheongbong is via Osaek Trail in the south, but this path is also the hardest, with its switchbacks back and forth across a stark mountainside exposed to the elements. As far as Korean mountain trails go, most of which are well maintained and readily walkable, the steepest parts of Osaek are a hands-and-knees vertical climb, treacherous if covered in snow or mud. Shooting straight up the Osaek also shows only glimpses of the parks character. In the northeast, for instance, is Gwongdeumseong, an ancient

Seoraks postcard panorama is Dinosaur Ridge, a row of jagged rocks that . . . truly do resemble the spindly backside of a stegosaurus.

300-metre-long stone temple, TWO EXTREMES possibly built in the 13th century to Seoraksan (above) can draw a crowd all year round, while Baekdusan defend against Mongolian invaders. (top), supposed birthplace of the You could also choose to believe the Korean people, is unattainable for legend that two intrepid soldiers built now, being on the North Korean/ the entire fortress in a single night, China border. but there are no shortage of legends to accompany these mountains and lines must be drawn somewhere. Another particularly adorable Seoraksan tale tells of Ulsanbawi, a bumbling sort of mountain who walked from the southern port city of Ulsan to join 12,000 other mountains as part of a gods plan for a beautiful range. But by the time the mighty mound of stone had made it to the party, all the spaces were filled. Dejected, he began walking slowly back down the peninsula but realised how beautiful this spot beside Sokcho was, and decided to stay there. Today Ulsanbawi is one of the most beautiful (and difficult) routes on Seoraksan, with awe-inspiring panoramic views of the city and waters below. AA

March/April 2014

March/April 2014