Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Summer 2009

WaveLength
Your complete kayaking and coastal exploration resource
MAGAZINE
Volume 19, Issue 3
SSummer
ummer 2009
FREE at select outlets or
by subscription
Discover BC
A look at BCC destinations
off the beaten track
The tao of kayaking
Become one with the paddle:
centered, balanced,
aware
PM 41687515
Plus: East Creek

Requiem for one
• Current Designs Infinity review
• Stern rudder stroke
of Vancouver Island's
• Kayak fishing last pristine valleys
WL_SU09_master.indd 1 5/27/2009 11:35:41 AM

2 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

Contents
This month's features: Regular columns:

10 Requiem for East Creek 4 Editorial
Conservation
by John Kimantas
10 6 Letters
14 New Vistas 8 News
Discover BC
Various contributors 24 Paddle Meals
by Hilary Masson
20 Wind and Wonder
Haida Gwaii 14 26 New Gear
by Sheila Porteous
32 Skillset
28 Into Infinity by Alex Matthews
Review: Current Designs Infinity
by John Kimantas 38 Planning & Safety
by Michael Pardy
30 The Tao of Sea Kayaking
Health and Fitness 34 40 Fishing Angles
by Eric Soares by Dan Armitage
34 Pelican Primer 42 Reflections

Wildlife by Terry Johnson
by James Michael Dorsey
SUMMER 2009 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE 3

The First Word by John Kimantas
WaveLength Rediscovering old ground MAGAZINE
Regular readers of this column will likely see a common theme emerging: how
Summer 2009 Volume 19, Number 3
PM No. 41687515 thankful I am to live where I do (Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, BC, for the record). I'll
have to add to that I am additionally thankful for the incredible experiences I've been
Editor John Kimantas editor@wavelengthmagazine.com
able to enjoy here on the BC coast. Foremost among those was the three summers
Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart I spent living by and large out of a kayak. The result was the
unusual credential of having kayaked almost all the BC coast.
Writing not otherwise credited is by WL staff. That isn't to say I know all of it. But I can tell you, I am
intimately familiar with the coast through memories that
Cover Photo: Tao at sunset, near Mendocino, CA tend not to fade with time (unlike days spent in the office, for
Michael Powers
instance, for anyone wondering if such trips are worthwhile). I
can remember just about every nook and cranny campsite I had
SAFE PADDLING is an individual responsibility. We
recommend that inexperienced paddlers seek expert
to tame, every encounter with a whale, every rocky precipice I
instruction and advice about local conditions, have all the had to paddle past. I remember the storms and the cold, plus
required gear and know how to use it. The publishers of this the wet and the discomfort, but I have to be honest – even
magazine and its contributors are not responsible for how
the information in these pages is used by others. those have a fond familiarity that beckons me back, to that world ffree ffrom economic
WAVELENGTH is an independent magazine available free and international strife to a time when the only concerns were what lay within the next
at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, horizon and the shape of the clouds beyond.
outdoor stores, fitness clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and
globally on the web. Also available by subscription. This edition, with a focus on BC destinations, has brought a lot back for me.
Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. Particularly poignant was a CD sent from friend Michael Luce showing photos from
his latest trip to Fiordlands – a destination I fell in love with as soon as I turned the
Download back issues and articles online at
www.wavelengthmagazine.com corner off Mathieson Channel and began paddling into Kynoch Inlet.
I often find myself planning trips by setting my mind back a few years and thinking
SUBSCRIBE about which areas I would like to have lingered longer. The list is a long one. There
$20 FOR 1 YEAR – 4 ISSUES are pockets of paradise everywhere. For the past few years I have given a slideshow
$35 FOR 2 YEARS – 8 ISSUES and talk on my pick for the top 10 kayaking destinations in BC, which is a bit foolish
US$ FOR USA / CDN$ FOR CANADA in a way as there is no possible way to rank areas. It's all so subjective. Wind, rain, loud
TO SUBSCRIBE: SEE PAGE 36 partiers at the last campsite or a pod of killer whales surfacing within paddle-length
will all shape your own impression of a trip and by extension the area. But that's a
ADVERTISING RATES AND SUBMISSION GUIDELINES bonus. You cannot predict your own experience, and what you encounter will never be
AVAILABLE AT WWW.WAVELENGTHMAGAZINE.COM duplicated, by you (sadly sometimes) or anyone else.
ISSUE AD DEADLINE DISTRIBUTION So having promoted a "Top Ten" approach to kayaking in BC I'd also like to banish
Fall 2009 July 1 Aug. 1 the concept. After all, it's not the destination that makes a trip. It's the journey. That
Winter 2009 Oct. 1 Nov. 1 thought is one of the reasons I think Eric Soares' introduction to "little tao" is entirely
Spring 2010 Feb. 1 March 1 apt, more so in a magazine advocating destinations. It goes with my philosophy for
Summer 2010 May 1 June 1 life: The longer and more difficult the journey, the better the rewards you’ll find along
A product of:
the way. (You'll hear that from me a lot, no doubt.) After reading over Eric's tao article,
I'm happy to see my approach to being on the water has been very tao-like without
Wild Coast Publishing
even knowing it. But then I always felt a Zen-like connection between myself, my
#6 10 Commercial St.
Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5G2
kayak, my paddle and the water. I remember one trip trying to introduce someone to
Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937 kayaking, and getting the comment mid-trip, "If we had a motor on these things we'd
Email: info@wavelengthmagazine.com be there already."
Website: www.wavelengthmagazine.com
I think that entirely sums up the concept of missing the point. Maybe that's because
© 2009. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. we're so busy trying to get somewhere these days we're missing out on the journey. But
No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose,
except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing. when you think about it, the journey is all there really is.
Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with - John Kimantas
the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2008, courtesy
of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some
elements that may appear on Wavelength maps.
Cert no. SW-COC-002226

Nuchatlitz, Nootka Sound
(Vancouver Island)


Letters
Meet the real last fiord

The article in your Spring 2009 Wavelength magazine (The Last
Fiord) states that the fiord just outside Vancouver, Indian Arm, is
The inside view
We live on Wickaninnish Island off Tofino (it harbors Tofino
the southernmost fiord in North America. I do not think so. The from the open ocean) and have lived here for over 40 years. As
Hood Canal in Washington State is the southernmost as it is a fiord you have probably experienced if you come to Clayoquot very
and not a canal. often, the beaches are increasingly covered with fish farm plastic
It was misnamed by cartographers many years ago when they and waste, the inlets have underwater lights on all night and some
named it for Capt. Hood. They put CA. Hood, and the people that have above water spotlights. If a person is camping, you wake up
make the maps thought they meant Hood Canal, not Captain Hood. in the night thinking it might be the full moon but it is fish farm
It is in fact a fiord. operations, and in the morning, booming rock music from the
Rick Chaffee many speakers broadcasting on the farms carries over the water,
along with the 24/7 generators that feed all this and then the
automatic feeders that tumble feed pellets continuously into the
pens. It doesn't make for a very natural experience.
Here in Clayoquot there are over 24 fish farm licences. I believe
about 20 are in operation holding between 10 to 14 or more pens
at each site. Each net pen holds from 20,000 to 50,000 salmon. In
the Mainstream operations they are all Atlantic salmon, voracious
feeders that prey on small fish attracted to the pens and lights.
They create a proliferation of sea lice that jump on these herring,
salmonids, cod and other young fish trying to survive in the inlets.
It is strange that people feel that if the salmon river is protected
and the inlets aren't, that is adequate for the wild salmon. It's easy
to forget how vitally important the rearing grounds of the inlets
are for wild fish survival. We have approximately 5 million salmon
being raised for private profit, most of it going to Norway, while

Letters
on Clayoquot Sound
local people aren't even getting food fish finishing off.
anymore, and it is unlikely anyone will eat It is a challenge for people to speak
a farmed fish. We wouldn't. Would rather out as the many kayaking companies don't
be vegetarian. The pollution of the blood want to discourage people from enjoying
water (the brine solution and CO2 plus the coast. But after a trip to Cape Cook
other things these fish farm companies two years ago, and after living on the coast
use to kill the fish slowly) – that is, the for almost 45 years, having seen it in its
sludge the fish are killed in on the bottom incredible beauty and purity, to experience
of the barges en route to the processing it now it is becoming a nightmare. There
plant to make them "bleed out" so they are are still places to "get away from it all" but
easier to process – is so dangerous that it these are becoming a rarity. Rather, we
is prohibited to be dumped near the farms. need to turn this around and stop it. All the
But it does end up in Tofino's sewer system efforts in Clayoquot have been thrown back
where it is mixed with raw sewage to be in people's faces and it keeps eroding until
pumped out into the ocean. This plus the there will be nothing left. Our children and
sewage from the farms themselves, which is grandchildren will be dumbed down as they
equivalent to villages of up to 5,000 people, will not know what to compare the present
is destroying the marine life in the area. It is to. Likely they will find their own oases and
known that many seals, killer whales, eagles satisfaction, but hopefully it won't have
and bears are starving with no fat on them to be in entertainment systems or human
any more. While Norway profits, we are games rather than knowing the awe and
losing. Norway also owns the pulp mill in beauty of the natural world.
Port Alberni (Catalyst). What the logging Steve Lawson
did to the wild salmon stocks, fish farms are Clayoquot Sound

News
Wavelength funds
North Coast Trail
IPP targets Kaikash Creek
Syntex Energy Resources Ltd. has put Environmental standards may be relaxed
forward an application for an independent to accommodate these projects. Leaked
power generation project (IPP) at Kaikash documents obtained by the Wilderness
Creek. It includes the Crown foreshore Committee cite removal of the ability of
and Crown land in the vicinity of Kaikash Ministry of Environment officials to say no to
Creek for a run-of-river power generation a project. See www.wildernesscommittee.org
facility. The area has been a forest recreation
campsite and one of the key marine-
based campgrounds for whale watching,
Sea otter hunt planned
The Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council of
particularly for kayakers, in Johnstone Strait.
Vancouver Island and Canadian federal
The project involves the construction of a
Fisheries Department are negotiating a sea
power house proposed near the ocean on the
otter hunt tentatively set at one per cent of the
east side of the creek, an access road along the
population.
penstock/river run plus power lines along the
The sea otters re-established themselves
shoreline to connect with the existing grid at
off the Vancouver Island after being
Beaver Creek.
reintroduced in the 1970s. They were
The BC government's push for IPPs has
extirpated – hunted locally to extinction – in
created a gold-rush-like rash of proposals to
the 1700s, then relocated from Alaska to
generate power on most BC rivers. While
Checkleset Bay. The original colony has now
being billed as green (renewable) energy,
spread along much of the Vancouver Island
the concept has come under fi re for its
coast. The Nuu-chah-nulth are planning the
environmental, visual and recreational
hunt for ceremonial purposes.
impact. Significant is that many of these
Follow discussions and links on these topics
waters are fish-bearing and host to a variety of
plus others on Wavelength's Forum at
users, in many cases including prime grizzly
www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum
habitat (such as the head of Bute Inlet).

News
Island record bid to aid GSA

Nick Castro will have his mind focussed and manage use of one of the most congested,
on 17 days, 4 hours and 49 minutes this industrialized and environmentally challenged
month. Less time than that is what it will take waterways on the BC coast.
to unseat the record set by Sean Morley in Meanwhile, the GSA has another backer:
circumnavigating Vancouver Island by kayak. the Bullitt Foundation, which is offering
Morley set the record in October 2008, and a $10,000 donation if the GSA can raise a
Castro will be looking to supersede it when he matching amount.
sets out from Port Hardy in June and rounds To qualify for a matching contribution, new
the island anti-clockwise – the same route used members can sign up with a one-time donation
by Morley. of at least $250, or a monthly donation of $21;
A resident of Victoria, BC, Castro wants to existing members can make a donation of at
keep the record held locally. Earlier in 2008 the least $250 more than the amount they gave in
solo speed record was set by Joe O'Blenis at 23 2008; or existing monthly donors can increase
days. Beset with poor conditions and even lost their monthly gift by $21.
hatch covers, O'Blenis plans to regain his speed The GSA must raise the fi rst half ($5,000)
record with an attempt in September. by Sept. 15.
To break Morley's record, the paddlers will For more information:
have to average more than 80 kilometers a day • Follow Castro's journey, including SPOT
(more than 50 miles). map progress, at www.activeseakayaking.ca.
Besides attempting to break the record, • Learn about the Georgia Strait Alliance or
Castro is using his trip to raise awareness join/donate at www.georgiastrait.org.
about ocean kayaking as a healthy and • Join news updates and an often lively
environmentally sustainable activity. He is discussion on circumnavigating Vancouver
also using it to raise money for the Georgia Island on the Wavelength Forum at
Strait Alliance, a group working to preserve www.wavelengthmagazine.com/forum

Conservation by John Kimantas
East Creek
Requiem for
How one of Vancouver

Island's last pristine
watersheds was allowed
to quietly slip away
I
FOUND MYSELF standing take. Mornings of calm winds are a rare
awkwardly in knee-deep water off enough forecast for anywhere on thee BC
the beach, hand outheld like some coast in the summer. At Brooks you take
odd parody of the Statue of Liberty. This such breaks and run with them.
offered the best reception I could find for The plan didn’t take long to formulate:
the marine weather forecast, which was still a 4 a.m. launch to beat the afternoon
fading in and out in a rhythm oddly akin winds likely off the most exposed area
to the nearby waves. Blame the campsite at Cape Cook. This would
deep in Klaskish Inlet, one I picked for get me ideally to a beach
the location directly across from the East campsite on the south end of
Creek estuary. Poor radio reception was Brooks Peninsula in the early
an unexpected side-effect of my location afternoon, where I could set up
within a clustering of adjacent mountains. to prepare for the onslaught.
Weather forecasts are a lifeline along this My rushed departure meant
part of northwest Vancouver Island. The one unfortunate change of
next leg of my journey after exploring East plans. I’d lose a day meant to
Creek was around Brooks Peninsula, the explore East Creek. When I
legendary barrier of mountains known for paddled away the next morning
its storms and wind. I was in no hurry to in the pre-dawn black, it was East Creek's estuary.
cross it, content to take as long as possible my last visit to this area for
for a weather window, but the typically many years to come. The logging was protested
protested, but the result
cryptic Environment Canada weather That was 2003, when a glimmer of hope was hardly a victory for environmentalists.
forecasts had been even more cryptic than remained for the East Creek estuary. At The Sierra Club led the rally with a Save
usual these past few days, ending with the the time it was one of the last remaining East Creek campaign. After a short flurry
ominous warning of a coming storm but unprotected, pristine watersheds on of activity in 2003, interest died. Internet
no details of when. Vancouver Island, a status soon to be lost. updates end virtually that year. The Save
With arm outheld I was finally able to LeMare Lake Logging of Port McNeill East Creek website is now gone. Interest
piece the latest forecast together: winds was granted approval from the province evaporated and East Creek was forgotten
calm tomorrow morning, rising to 10-20 for 480 hectares (1,200 acres) of logging. as a cause.
knots in the afternoon, with an approaching By building a road they also made it easier For Save East Creek campaign organizer
southerly storm front expected to hit for Weyerhaeuser, then-owners of adjacent Jill Thompson, it was a bitter outcome. She
the next day. It wasn’t a perfect weather logging rights, to push through and log says the value of the creek was never in
window, but one I was going to have to farther into the valley. X

East Creek
Rainforest at Klaskish Inlet.
Few places on Vancouver Island can match the formidable presence of Brooks Peninsula. Its
snow-capped peaks can be seen in the distance to the right. This photo is taken from Side Bay.
The peak to the left is Red Stripe Mountain, a previously logged area. The gap beyond Red Stripe
is Klaskino Inlet, another possible point of entry via logging road or a good anchorage for the
hardy boaters who pass this stretch of coast. The mouth of Klaskish Inlet, this day's destination,
is in the distance between the last headland and the snow-capped peaks.

Conservation
question – in fact, Thompson says even the government recognized the values of
both East Creek and Klaskish River, known for its salmon, elk, wolf and marbled
murrelet. But somehow these areas were left outside the borders of Brooks
Peninsula Provincial Park when it was created in 1995.
“Nasparti, Power, Battle, East and Klaskish were like a bite taken out of an
otherwise continuous protected area, and they had excellent fish and wildlife
values and recreation, for those hardy enough to get there, but MoF (Ministry of
Forests) didn’t think there were enough of you to be worth it,” Thompson says.
The Save East Creek campaign ran into barriers as formidable as the
environment. Too remote for an active base and with no nearby home
community, there was no way to anchor a protest. And financial backers were
equally elusive.
“Big funders thought of it as a lost battle, and had moved their money to
the more promising Great Bear Rainforest. We connected with some members
of the Quatsino First Nation and learned a bit about their history there, but
they were similarly overstretched with other demands on their attention and
resources,” Thompson says. “In the end, I think we (Sierra Club and the Ministry
of Environment) got a few reserves for marbled murrelet established, but it was
massively disappointing. By that time, the BC Government had gutted a bunch
of the previous conservation tools, and the MoE had no bargaining power
whatsoever – basically they got what the companies agreed they could have.”
A haven for kayakers exploring north Brooks Peninsula and Side Bay, as
well as a few adventurous boaters, the headwaters at Klaskino Inlet captured
the attention of BC activist Ingmar Lee. His plan was a reconnaissance of the
forests of East Creek and the ancient Klaskish village of Tsowanachs at the
Kayaking East Creek.
mouth of Klaskino. With the blessing of the Quatsino First Nation he searched
for culturally modified trees – evidence of the traditional use by First Nations

East Creek
possibly long ago. Brooks Peninsula in April. roads that lead to either Side Bay
“By counting the rings in the or Klaskino Inlet. Five years after
calluses that grow across the my first visit I finally found the
barkstrip, or planksplit wounds, we time to return, and entered via Side
can get an idea of when people last Bay. Snow almost barred our entry
lived in these forests and how far as we crossed the pass from Port
and wide they traveled through them. Alice. A few days earlier and the
So little is known about this village, route wouldn’t have yet been plowed
and there is a lot to learn from the for the spring. We launched with
amazing story that is written in these the thermometer barely above the
CMTs,” Lee says. freezing mark – the price to pay for
An unexpected find was what an early April visit. But we gained
appeared to be an ancient trail near the advantage of the unusual sight
the East Creek estuary. “I’m certain that people provided shelter for Lee during a of snow on the Brooks Peninsula peaks.
it’s a human made path because it runs blasting storm. Thankfully after a portage up the
so directly along the easiest route over While surrounded by such history, shallows at the mouth of East Creek (we
the lie of the land. The trail has been well evidence of more modern use is never far didn’t time our arrival well for the necessary
maintained by animal traffic judging by the away. “Dreadfully, at times we can hear high tide), we found the lower valley largely
purple piles and all the tracks, since the last snippets of the rumble and roar of big undisturbed. East Creek can be paddled for
human passage, perhaps 200 years ago,” logging on its way here at the moment,” Lee about a mile, offering a rare look into the
Lee says. It appears to have once connected wrote during his stay. interior of Brooks Peninsula – so long as
East Creek to Tsowanachs, with culturally A trip to Brooks Peninsula is never easy; you don’t look up to the valley-top logging.
modified trees liberally dotting the trail’s getting there involves long miles on land For Thompson, it’s a bitter contrast.
length. The pair measured one ancient red well past the end of the asphalt then more “It deserves better,” she says.
cedar at a 14-foot diameter, making it the travel on water. You can approach from the
eighth largest cedar on the planet. A hollow, south via Fair Harbour in Kyuquot Sound Visit Lee's website at ingmarlee.com and his
burned-out center large enough for 10 or from the north via convoluted logging film on East Creek at cathedralgrove.eu

Discover BC
New Vistas
Wavelength looks at some of BC's least visited
but most enticing kayak destinations,
starting with little-known Fiordlands
If only
people
turned right
at Klemtu when heading up British Columbia's Inside Passage. But they don't. The pleasure boats
cru
cruising this route to Alaska invariably continue north through Princess Royal Passage. Those who do
tur
turn right, and head up Mathieson Channel, will soon find themselves in the exceptional Fiordlands
Co
Conservancy – an area well worth a few days for boaters and kayakers alike. Every year Washington
Sta
State-based brothers Michael and James (Jamz) Luce explore a new remote region of the BC coast, or
red
rediscover an old one. This past year they explored the Fiordland region for 10 days with friends Mike
an
and Elaine McRory.
Th
The Fiordlands Conservancy protects Kynoch and Mussel Inlets, two glacially created fiords
ch
characterized by sheer granite cliffs dropping more than a kilometer at points into the ocean. It's not a
pla
place to visit lightly. Accessible areas suitable for camping are few and far between, while some of those,
suc
such as the estuaries, are prime grizzly habitat. Watch also for strong diurnal winds.

Fiordland
Lessum Creek. Elaine McRory photo

Fiordland is rich in waterfalls, such as the one at Lessum Creek near the entrance of
Kynoch Inlet, as well as McAlpin and Lisette Falls in Mussel Inlet. The latter earned its name
from Capt. George Vancouver's ill-fated trip in 1793 when paralytic shellfish poisoning
claimed the life of shipmate John Carter. Nearby Carter Bay commemorates the 24-year-
old seaman. The scene below shows typical conditions for the region – cliffs, water and
fog.
Morning fog
near Mathieson Point, Pooley Island
James 'Jamz' Luce photo
If you go:
The only community in this region is
Klemtu. BC Ferries (www.bcferries.com)
stops here, making it an ideal launch
point. The Kitasoo First Nation also offers
rentals, accommodation and cultural tours,
including a cabin in Kynoch Inlet. Visit
www.klemtutourism.com. For park info,
visit www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks. West Kynoch Inlet. Michael Luce photo

Discover BC
There's a new way

to enjoy north
Vancouver Island.
And it's beyond belief.
Beyond paddles Fo years most of Vancouver Island's north coast was off limits to just about all but the most hardy
For
pa
paddlers. After all, the closest community is Port Hardy, and from there you must cross windy Goletas
Ch
Channel, potentially dangerous Tatnall Reefs then the reef-infested and potentially rough waters
tow
towards Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island.
On
Once you arrive you'll find something you probably didn't expect: miles of sand beaches comparable
to tropical destinations, and most often with no other soul in sight. In idyllic paddling conditions it is
pa
paradise. For this reason it has grown as one of BC's most desirable veteran kayaking destinations.
Th
The fan base can widen now the North Coast Trail is complete. The land trail opened in May 2008, and
offers the chance for foot access to many previous inaccessible portions of the Vancouver Island coast.
Bu
But don't for a moment think the area will lose its charm now foot traffic is possible. The trail is remote
an
and in parts extremely difficult. Expect it to be among the more elite hikes, comparable to the more
fam
famous West Coast Trail but without many trail improvements. What you will find is 58 kilometers of
sometimes easy b
beachh walking,
lk sometimes grinding headland scaling and one lengthy meandering stretch of mostly boardwalk across
boggy overland near Shushartie Bay. Either way, by paddle or by foot, it is an experience not to be missed.

North Coast Trail
Leanne Chetcuti tackles a tough portion

of trail, aided by ropes placed at the most
difficult stretches of the North Coast Trail –
which are many.
Imagine the West Coast Trail 20 years ago

before today's many bridges and ladders
Photos by John Kimantas
were built. The North Coast Trail evokes
that earlier era of pristine but rough trail.
Kudos to Leanne of Team Wavelength
If you go: who finished the NCT just days after the
opening last May, making her the first
The North Coast Trail is a continuation
female on record to complete the hike. The
of the established Cape Scott Trail. From
overall inaugural hike is chronicled at
Nissen Bight it continues 43 km along the
www.wildcoastmagazine.com
top of Vancouver Island to Shushartie Bay,
where a water taxi is needed to return
to Port Hardy. A shuttle service to the
trailhead at San Josef is available; see
northernvancouverislandtrailssociety.com
for details. Wavelength Magazine's parent
company, Wild Coast Publishing, has
produced a map detailing the trail. Visit
www.wavelengthmagazine.com. See
www.wildcoastmagazine.com North Coast
Trail pages for detailed trail information.

Discover BC
A worthwhile Mission
Photo by Fran Solar
Just off Kyuquot Sound on Vancouver

Island is a magical little cluster of islands
called the Mission Group. It may well be
the perfect kayaking destination, with photos courtesy Dave Pinel, West Coast Expeditions. See www.westcoastexpeditions.com
sandy beaches, sea arches, a rich native
history plus a sense of wildness magnified
by the proximity to the wild and mythical
Brooks Peninsula. Prime sea otter viewing.
If you go:
You can launch from Fair Harbour in
Kyuquot Sound or at Artlish River. A water
taxi from Fair Harbour is the easy way to
the archipelago, as is the MV Uchuck from
Gold River. Accommodation is available at
Sea Otter Lodge (see the ad page 43) while
West Coast Expeditions hosts tours from a
base camp on Spring Island in the Mission
Group (see the ad page 46). Air Nootka
provides the region's plane service.
18 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER

UMMER 2009


&
Discover BC by Sheila Porteous
Wind Wonder
Rennell Sound.
Buck Tombolo.
Exploration of Queen
Charlotte Islands is at first
intimidating, then enchanting
– once the wind calms down
T
HE WINDS were blasting over the diminutive island
at fifty-plus knots. The tents looked like soggy clumps
of paper huddled in the grass; and me, I was standing
wwith my head cocked to one side, with raindrops pelting my face,
wwondering what I was doing here. After spending the first two
nnights of the trip on the aptly named Refuge Island holed up in
a rustic cabin, the thought of kayaking down the West Coast of
GGraham Island seemed barely plausible.
The plan to spend two weeks here was conjured up by a well-
ttraveled group of Vancouver Island paddlers. I had been sucked in
bby the romantic notion of unspoiled shorelines, endless beaches
aand the adventure of a lifetime. (I never stopped to consider
wwhy this ‘spectacular destination’ was still relatively untouched.)
GGraham is the largest of the Queen Charlotte Islands, or Haida
GGwaii in the more traditional name. Being unfamiliar with rainy
eexpeditions that lasted longer than one week, I was truly beginning
tto panic. I wanted to go home. Fortunately, I was too ashamed
((and afraid) to turn my kayak around, head back to Old Masset
aand beg the wise village elders to take care of me for a few weeks
wwhile my friends continued on.
On the tail end of the storm we set out to tackle Virago Sound,
ssoon to be the most challenging kayaking I had ever done. With
South end of Gillan Tombolo. tthe current and swell opposing, the seas were a confusing mix of
wwaves. As I floundered across feeling like a kernel of corn in a

Haida Gwaii
hot pot, all I can remember is chanting “paddle, paddle, brace!

Paddle, paddle, brace!” The drunken fishermen that were
rushing toward their luxury lodges in their 14-foot runabouts
yelled over the wind that we were “crazzzy.” That didn’t help.
And the trip had just begun.
But eventually the weather did break and the spectacular
sights began to emerge. I never understood that a rainforest is
really a temperate jungle until I paddled and camped along the
shores of Graham. Wandering through the forests I realized
that I could dig down with my bare hands for several feet
and still not reach hard-packed soil. The vegetation was so
abundant that I couldn’t take a single step without crushing
a living organism, and I always felt like I was walking on the
clouds. The dampness of Haida Gwaii permeated my clothing,
my shoes and my heart, yet I never felt cold; quite the opposite.
I was left feeling warm, nourished and somehow revived. The
more time I spent the more content I became.
The bountiful plant kingdom was matched by the abundance
of ocean creatures. Almost every day the majestic humpbacks
kept us company throughout our long and sometimes lonely
journey. Each night we hiked a bluff to look toward the next
day’s destination, and gazed upon distant whales that were
setting out toward the horizon. The eagles and ravens clung to
the mountainous shores like bees to a hive, crying to each other
with their haunting prose. Incidentally, it wasn’t all smooth
sailing in the animal world. Black bears posed no trouble.
Instead I was beset by the intertidal life. Setting up a tent meant
clearing pristine moon snail and top shells off the beach, plus I
almost flipped my kayak more than once staring at the myriad
of colored urchins just under the waves.
I must mention that my paddling partners were some of the Kelp blown up by the windstorm
most exciting wildlife on the trip. An eclectic mix of X litters the beach at Refuge Island.

Discover BC
Pillar Rock dwarfs a kayaker.
unique individuals
individuals, they are imbued with intervals. (Surviving
islands at regular intervals
a profusion of wilderness survival skills. villages have protectors called watchmen
From repairing a flat tire using driftwood who may grant permission to respectfully Photo by Joanne Nicolson
for a jack, to building ovens big enough explore the remaining village sites. Dustin coastline, crashing surf and unpredictable
to bake goodies to feed the whole group, Edgars took us on our own personal winds that the West Coast of the Queen
to packing enough construction tools to tour of Kiutsa, the largest original native Charlottes is infamous for; I was stimulated
make a handyman proud, they could do it settlement in the area.) Throughout our by a landscape that hums with the perpetual
all. Thanks to a cooking competition that travels we appreciated the wise territorial spirit of life. I was honoured to experience
began with the first collective meal, my diet choices of the preceding native people. We the underlying rhythm of this stunning
and waist-line both expanded more than often camped on ancient Haida territories archipelago. Although I have been home
one could imagine while traveling in the where the beaches were protected from for many months, my dreams are still filled
middle of nowhere. One of my fondest the incoming Pacific swells, where the with vivid yet indescribable sensations from
memories was gazing at the peaks of the headlands sheltered us from the winds and
snow-capped Queen Charlotte Mountains provided lookouts to scope out the next
while noticing that the stern paddler in our day’s paddle.
team's canoe was sitting back, sipping hot Material sources were infinite. Our own
tea and appreciating the sights while his diets were supplemented with the same
wife propelled them along. abundant seafood the Haida would have
As the trip neared its end I was able to consumed. Even with all the hardships
finally appreciate how the Haida people of the trip we were well protected and
had developed their culture over some nourished by the very lands that I had
10,000 years along these remote and hostile feared just a few weeks before.
shores. The fantastic remains of the Haida Kayaking around Graham Island I
settlements are scattered throughout the experienced much more than the rugged
Rocky outcrop near blowhole, Naikoon Provincial Park.

Haida Gwaii
The author paddling in Skidegate Inlet.
these intriguing islands. The mountains and spirits, and myself, once more.
surrounding seas resonate with an unseen
energy that left me looking for something Sheila Porteous is a certified kayak guide
that I will never be able to see or touch, but with the SKGABC and Level 1 sea kayak
I may spend the rest of my days searching instructor with Paddle Canada. She hopes
for. The essence of Haida Gwaii, or “the to use the skills and knowledge she has
Land of the People,” has penetrated my gained so far to encourage people to break
soul and I ache to return to this desperately through their barriers and join the paddling
beautiful haven to search for the ancient community. sheilap@shaw.ca

Paddle Meals by Hilary Masson
Outer Island Oyster

A
T THE SOUTHERN END of
Gabriola Island, where the tidal
rapids from False Narrows and
Gabriola Pass meet, is a paddling paradise
which contains a rich diversity of sea
life. Growing up here instilled local
Extravaganza also important that you have a valid
seafood harvesting as an important fishing license and abide by harvesting
aspect of my life. Whenever I kayak, regulations.
be it in Baja or in BC, fishing and I recommend bringing an oyster
shellfish harvesting is often a focal shucker and adding it to your cutlery
point for my kayak expeditions. in your camp kitchen. Both of these
The meals shared while camping in recipes are hard to make without one.
spectacular locations create memories Cooking the soup over the fire is great
that last forever, especially if the meal because it’s a one-pot meal, and the
includes fresh seafood which was oyster appetizer is ideal over the fire
harvested right at your campsite. too. If you will be cooking over a fire
While guiding a paddling trip from then check for summer fire bans for
my Gabriola Island home to the outer your paddling destination. Respect the
more remote Gulf Islands, I served a fire bans. If you can’t have a fire, try
meal that was an extravaganza of oysters. confirmed the area was open to all but oysters on the half shell on your barbecue
On the beach where we camped there was butter clams. Contrary to popular belief at home, or broiled in the oven.
a healthy population of oysters and clams. the summers in the Gulf Islands are mostly
I had previously checked the Department open; however, it is very important that Hilary Masson is a guide and part owner
of Fisheries and Oceans website for any you research your paddling destination of Baja Kayak Adventure Tours Ltd. doing
PSP (paralytic shellfish poisoning) closures, and determine contamination closure business as Silva Bay Kayak Adventures in the
commonly caused by ‘Red Tide,’ and locations and the PSP-outbreak status. It is summer in BC.
Oyster on the half shell appetizer and Thai seafood soup


New Gear
Go PVC-free: here's why

PVC is one type of plastic you don't want in your arsenal of kayaking gear. Dioxins are
produced in the production of PVC, and over the lifetime of the product a cocktail of toxic
chemicals are released back into the environment. It can't be recycled easily, and if burned or
incinerated it releases more dioxins and toxic gases. If landfi lled, it will release additives that can
damage groundwater. For good reason more and more manufacturers are advertising PVC-free
products. Here are several from the growing selection.
Aquapac Cascade Designs
Th is new super-durable PVC-free map case

As well as PVC-free, Aquapac adds to the from the Sealline family of Cascade Designs
equation that its waterproof belt case is 100% features a secure roll-down plus hook and
recyclable. For keys, cash, passports and more, loop closure, convenient tie-down tabs, and an
the belt case is submersible to 15 feet and adjustable neck strap. Take your pick of small,
comes with a belt or slip it onto your own. medium or large. We're happy to report the
Also look for Aquapac's range of medium fits the BC Recreation Kayaking and
lightweight, flexible and durable waterproof Small Boat Atlas quite nicely. (Phew!)
camera cases. www.aquapac.net. www.cascadedesigns.com
MECTransparent drybags are always a bonus – no digging around

to ferret out something out of sight in the bottom. MEC's new
line is made of non-PVC 0.5mm polyurethane fi lm with radio-
frequency welded seams. The bottom is 800-denier PU-coated for
extra durability. An oval shape helps with packing. But don't fully
submerge – for expensive or vulnerable items, look for hard cases
with o-rings or padded waterproof cases. www.mec.ca

New Gear
Cobra
If you're like the average North American male who goes giddy over
electronics, you'll love the new Cobra MR HH125- 3 Watt Waterproof
Handheld VHF. It's one of the smallest, most versatile and most
affordable yet, with a backlit LCD display and keypad for low-light
conditions and built-in NOAA channels and weather alerts. It runs on
recyclable AAA batteries (included), and comes with a DC cigarette
lighter charger for recharging on the go. Or replace with five standard
AAA batteries, meaning continuous use on long trips where recharging
isn't possible. www.cobra.com.
Win a
Cobra!
NRS
And now something for the women, with apologies that it isn't a bit more
flashy or glamorous. But any woman who has sat for several hours in wet
pants in a kayak will know glamour isn't always a top priority. The NRS
Women's Athena Dry Pants are constructed with breathable 70 x 320-denier
ripstop HyproTex 2.5 fabric with fully taped seams , latex gaskets at the
ankles and 3-mm neoprene band seals at the waist to keep the water out. A
handy thigh pocket stores items you need close at hand. www.nrs.com
Platypus
Any connoisseur of wine knows the taste changes when exposed to oxygen.
If not preserved properly, the lifespan can be measure in hours – not good when
you're out kayaking for a week. Enter the PlatyPreserve, which can be used to
remove oxygen from the container. The bad news: there goes your excuse for
fi nishing the entire bott le in one sitt ing. www.platy.com

Review by John Kimantas
Yellow Point, Vancouver Island
S Into Infinity
OMETIMES it takes an
extraordinary event to fully
appreciate a kayak. And we got one
of those, in spades, during a test of the new
Current Designs Infinity.
We had been playing it rather safe. When
we invited this issue's guest reviewers Lockwood) got a chance to take the Infinity
along for an outing, it was under casual out to Nuchatlitz at the northwest end of
conditions in Nanaimo Harbour. A Nootka Island. I thought the maelstrom
circumnavigation of Newcastle Island off the reefs that surround Nuchatlitz
provided an introduction to the sporty Provincial Park would provide the rough
boat for members of the BC Marine Trails water test. But the real challenge turned out
Network Association, a group working to be the trip back up Espinosa Inlet. The
towards establishing a paddle trail from weather changed from calm to gale force
Washington State to Alaska. almost instantly, and in minutes we were
And so we all gained friendly first being propelled by gusting winds above 30 hatch covers that are surprisingly simple to
impressions of Current Designs’ latest knots. Williwaws (whirlwind squalls) kicked remove and reseal.
entry into the ever-more-crowded skeg up and we were surfing whitecapped wind The rating
boat category. You might be wondering waves. In the Infinity it was a surprisingly Touring: The Infinity is billed by CD
why another skeg boat if you’re familiar gentle ride. as a large expedition sea kayak for British
with CD’s legendary Gulfstream, a long- The basics: The Infinity cockpit is boat design aficionados. For those out
time industry leader among fans of North designed for a generally larger paddler. Our there not used to Brit boats and skegs, be
American-built Brit boats. But the two are test group’s smallest female members were warned the Infinity's skeg housing divides
quite different. For the Infinity, Current not feeling confident with their fit. Those the stern hatch space (a hazard of any
Designs has lengthened the Gulfstream, nearer the 6’0” range of the scale found it retractable skeg model) which in this case
knocked out some of the rocker, flattened fine. Given the narrowness there is some is already split by a day hatch (again, a
the hull bottom, made the beam narrower initial twitchiness but the overall stability is hazard of the design). Brit boat fans likely
(22 inches versus the Gulfstream’s 23.75 good thanks in part to the flat hull design. won't have a problem; it's the nature of the
inches), and generally made it a highly Tracking with the skeg is a breeze. The beast. Others (like me, for instance, who
sporty option. Infinity is well-equipped with a day hatch is spoiled by the bottomless pit of the CD
The result, as you might have guessed behind the cockpit, an adjustable skeg arsenal, the old Expedition) might be left
by the description, is not a beginner’s boat. lever, easily adjusted footrests and rubber head-scratching figuring out where to put
The Infinity is a specialty boat that will be
at home in surf and rapids as much as it Current Designs Infinity specs
is on flat water. As we found out. That’s Length Beam Depth Cockpit Total storage Weight
because our ad hoc Team Wavelength (in 17.9' 22" 13.5" 31.75"L x 16.5"W 209 liters 52/48 lbs
this case myself, Leanne Chetcuti and Carey

Current Designs Infinity
Newcastle Island, Nanaimo Harbour
the big-ticket items. The upside is the day hatch is great for loads of
miscellaneous gear – a feature I grew to appreciate when organizing
odds and ends (I got lazy and dumped, a strategy that worked well).
Playing: Being a sports boat, this is what the Infinity is really
all about. It is well designed for rolling, a key feature being a low,
flexible backrest – handy for fans of rolling, but not necessarily a
fit for everyone (one tester found it shy on lower back support for
touring). Overall the Infinity is ideal for fans of surf, rapids, rolling
and more technical kayaking.
Stability: Initial stability is good and secondary stability very
good. It tracked on or above par for a skeg boat in both broadside
and following weather – a definite strong point to the design.
The positives: We tested the Kevlar model, and have to vouch
for the weight savings on an already light model (48 pounds Kevlar
versus 52 pounds fiberglass). The difference is notable when
loading. Thoughtful accessories are found throughout the design,
such as the easily-accessible locking footrest adjustment levers.
Overall: Buyers should note this is a specialty boat. Thankfully
it also looks good on the straightaway and rides comfortably for
most larger size ranges, making it an option for casual kayakers who
may want to grow into a performance boat. The bottom line is the
Infinity does what it is meant to do; Brit boat fans will no doubt
debate the degree to which it succeeds compared to other boats for
years to come. So let the debate for the best Brit boat rage on as it
finally reaches Infinity.

Health and Fitness by Eric Soares
W
E’VE ALL HEARD of the
Tao, Chinese for the Way. In the
great Tao, the great Way, one
embarks on a lifelong sinuous path which
begins with an understanding of one’s
self and nature and leads to unity with the
cosmos. For those not ready to flow with
the universe, there is also the little tao, a way
of doing things in an efficient, playful and
natural manner. In the little tao, one seeks
spontaneous, authentic ways to do things,
while being centered, balanced, aware and
skilled. Of interest to us is the tao of sea
kayaking. Here are a few suggestions to help
us unite with the cosmos of the sea.
Understand water
Some kayakers are good at checking the
internet for information on tides, water
temperature, swell size, wind direction
and speed, and the weather forecast. They
ensure that their GPS is working, so they
will know where they are when on the
The
water. This is an important aspect of sea
TAO
kayaking, but its focus is on the water, not
in the water. Unlike yachting, an on-water
activity, kayaking is in-water. You can
literally touch the water at will. And when
you paddle in the sea, the water can touch
you at any time. It’s essential to understand
the sea by standing under the sea, so to
photo by Michael Powers

speak. This means let the sea envelope you
and teach you its secrets. This is the tao of
sea kayaking.
Water is a key concept in Taoism. Water
of sea kayaking
always takes the path of least resistance and
flows around obstacles rather than directly
opposes them. It constantly changes,
slipping downhill like a stream, or surging
in and out like the tides. Since our bodies
are mostly water, it is natural for humans the sea. Smell the salt in the air and listen end up out of the water. Then you get
to understand water. Yet some people have to the crying of the sea birds. Watch a swell closer to the water, find that you are too
acquired an aversion to being in water. Here from a mile away slowly make its way to slow and a wave hits you. The next thing
are some exercises to help you be one with your beach and break, then slip back to the you know, you are running and skipping and
water and get more out of sea kayaking sea in the rip current. Contemplate the tide leaping up and down the beach, frolicking in
with less effort. as it completes the massive yin and yang of the magic foam. Doesn’t the foam feel good
Sit and watch the river flow its cycle. See yourself surfing around a sea as it twinkles your toes? Before you know
The first exercise is relaxed observation. stack to hide from the wind. it, you’ve gotten hot and need to dive into
Simply go to your nearest natural body Test the waters the water to cool off. Ahh! You experienced
of water, be it Walden’s pond, a babbling The second activity is child’s play. To the rhythms of the surf first-hand and had
brook, a river, or the sea, and stay by it for really understand water, stand under the a really good time. The tao is so easy. If you
a day, just observing it in a casual way. As a waterfall and feast on the negative ion can’t do this, have a child show you.
sea kayaker, you’ll want to spend a day by barrage. Or go to a beach with breaking Swim like an otter
the seashore, whether it be the rocky coast waves, walk barefoot up and down the Since you are swimming, why not take
of Maine or a sandy beach in the Sea of beach with your feet barely in the water. the opportunity to body surf? If you feel
Cortez. First thing, take in the vastness of You may at first be too conservative and eager, here’s what you do. From the shore,

The Tao of Sea Kayaking
wade through the waves, turning sideways and wham.” To avoid zombie and monkey
as each one hits you. When the wave is thinking, instruct yourself to be alert for
big enough that you might get knocked it. When it occurs, identify it, dispel it
backward, dive under it and let its force and instead tell your mind to relax, stay
photo by Michael Powers

pass over you. Walk out until it’s difficult perceptive, and concentrate on what is
to touch bottom and swim around a bit to around you and what you are doing. In
acclimate. Pay attention to the incoming short, be mindful. To help your mind stay
surf. When a big wave comes and is just alert, on your next paddle in the ocean, skirt
ready to break, swim as hard as you can along the coast just outside the surf a few
In the midst of the cosmic swirl.
down wave until you feel it engulf you. feet. You will learn to be mindful or wham.
Then stiffen your body so it resembles a When staying mindful becomes natural in
surf board or a dolphin, and effortlessly the water, you are on the path.
glide down the wave as long as you can. Train your body
When the wave spends itself, dive down to Have you ever gotten exhausted while
the bottom and swim out to sea. Then set kayaking? Has your back hurt? Have your
photo by Jim Kakuk

up for the next wave. At this stage, you fully wrists or shoulders given you problems? Do
understand the sea. You and the sea are one. you gasp for breath after going through the
It’s time for caveats. If you can’t swim surf? If any of these things occur, you may
well, don’t go out in any body of water until need a workout regimen to help your body
Remain calm in the midst of chaos.
you become proficient. Also, don’t swim relax and excel in the ocean.
alone, in case something happens. If the We’re not talking about Iron Man
water is really cold, wear a wetsuit. Should training, just having your body do what you
body surfing appear too much for you, start want it to do so you don’t get hurt and you
by swimming in lakes, snorkeling in lagoons move efficiently. The Taoist art of tai chi
in the ocean or take a swim in the municipal is a series of gentle martial exercises that
pool. There is no need to push yourself. increase chi (energy) flow, improve flexibility
Surf like there’s no tomorrow and balance, regulate breathing, correct
You already have paddling skills, so now posture and help you move your body in a
take the lessons learned from body surfing natural, flowing motion. If you do tai chi
and apply them to surf kayaking. Upon regularly, your health will improve, and your
arrival at the beach, repeat the first three body will function at a high level.
exercises. Observe the water, waves and Temper your spirit
wind. Do you like what you see? If not, Why do you kayak? For most of us, there
don’t go out that day. If you do, put on your are many reasons, some of which we are
photo by Nancy Soares
wetsuit, run along the beach to get your not aware. Some people want to show off,
blood moving and test the waters. Do you others need to prove something. For some
still feel like getting in? If yes, then swim paddlers it’s a notch on their bucket list.
around a little. Feel good? If affirmative, The Taoist goes out in a kayak for the pure
body surf a couple of waves. Still feel Tune into the water, tune in to the tao. enjoyment of messin’ around in a boat.
confident? If you are, get in your boat and When your spirit is engaged fully in the
go surf kayaking. You and the water are activity of sea kayaking, you experience a
synched. Without reservation, go for it 100 unique satori (enlightenment). Because you
per cent. This is the tao of surf kayaking. observe water and experience it in many
photo by Glenn Gilchrist
Know your mind ways, you understand its nature. When

The untrained mind plays tricks on us. everything comes together, your spirit soars
Does your mind go blank while paddling? through the aquasphere. This is the tao of
You suddenly realize you have paddled 450 sea kayaking as I have lived it. But don’t take
meters without knowing it. This may seem my word for it; experience it yourself. Your
Follow the way, enter new dimensions.
like a good thing if you must paddle 25 path will differ from mine; that is natural.
miles, but spacing out in zombie mind is not mental chatter is monkey mind and not the From what you have read here, take what is
the tao. tao. useful and leave the rest.
How often have you had a conversation Zombie mind and monkey mind can
in your mind while paddling? If you are in occur while sea kayaking: “I was paddling Eric Soares lives in Ashland, Oregon, and
the middle of a long crossing, it seems like along, thinking about stuff, doo-de-doo, paddles the western Pacific coastline with his
a worthwhile way to stave off boredom. But when a wave appeared out of nowhere Tsunami Ranger friends.

Skillset By Alex Matthews
Skookumchuck Narrows, BC
A STERN RUDDER STROKE is
slowing your kayak’s forward momentum

too much. While sometimes erroneously
held comfortably in front of your chest. A
the most powerful means of making little trick to ensure that you’ve achieved the
small course corrections without desired position is to drop your paddle – it
should fall directly into the water without
bouncing off of your kayak first. From this
desired course.
When practicing the stern rudder,
strive to produce minimal drag from your
ruddering paddle blade. The blade should
be slicing cleanly into the water, and not
perceived as a turning stroke, the stern position you can use the power of torso flaring out to the side, splashing lots of
rudder is really a steering stroke – it’s rotation to push away with the backside of water, or creating drag. Having said that,
ideal, for instance, when gliding through a your paddle blade to steer your kayak. in some surfing situations (like very steep
tight gap too narrow for other strokes to From this same setup position, you can waves), including a breaking element in
be used. The stern rudder will also help also draw water towards your stern with the stroke may be desirable. A paddler
you stay on track when paddling in wind the power face of your blade, which is can choose to intentionally introduce drag
and waves. And it’s the key paddle stroke called the stern draw. However, because the by prying out to the side, in a bid to stay
that you’ll use to control your kayak while stern pry is so much more powerful than higher up the wave’s face, thereby reducing
surfing. the stern draw, we’ll use the pry the vast the chances of burying the kayak’s bow in
There are actually two forms of the majority of the time, and simply alternate the wave trough.
stern rudder: the stern pry, and the stern sides (right or left) as needed to steer the Also, experiment with combining boat
draw. We’ll look at the vastly more angle with your stern pry. Edging
powerful stern pry first. your kayak one way or the other
To set up for the stern pry, will yield different handling
completely submerge your characteristics and provide even
ruddering blade as far back as more response and fine control.
is comfortable, with the paddle Edging away from your stern
parallel to the kayak. This will pry is particularly effective when
provide your stroke with the steering a surfing sea kayak. As
most power while minimizing any always, practice on both sides
braking effect. To do this, you’ll and develop a smooth and
need to use some aggressive torso efficient transition from one side
rotation, which means turning to the other – this is a skill that
your whole upper body towards will pay immediate dividends on
your ruddering blade. This rotation your next surf ride.
will keep your hands in front of
your body in a powerful position Adapted from “Sea Kayaking:
and protect your shoulders from To practice on flat water, build up some speed before planting your Rough Waters” by Alex Matthews
injury. The front hand should be stern pry. available at www.Helipress.com.

photos by Rochelle Relyea
Use aggressive torso rotation and a fully

submerged blade.
The dropped paddle trick verifies correct

posture.

Wildlife By James Michael Dorsey
Pelican
primer
T
HE CORNER OF MY EYE impossible speed into the briny blue and
catches a blurred streak crashing have probably asked, “How do they do
into the water, and I know my old that without a brain injury or a headache at
friend the brown pelican is fishing. least?”
It is a rare paddling day that I am not Pelicanus occidentalis, commonly known
surrounded by these huge coastal seabirds as the brown pelican, is the smallest of
that have become so habituated to man eight species of pelicans but among the
they usually allow my kayak to approach largest of seabirds. At 42 to 54 inches tall,
within feet as they bob on the surface with a wingspan of 6 to 8 feet, it is second
between dives. in size only to the great albatross, and yet
Those of us who frequent the water
have all seen them hurtling their bodies at
Summer plumage.
34 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER

SUMMER2009
2009

Brown pelicans
with its compact stocky body and long lack of experience, and it is believed that Winter plumage.
beak, it manages to be both dramatic and almost one third of yearling birds starve to
comical at the same time. death because of this. As a result they are
They live 25 to 30 years, reaching their also great scavengers who haunt docks and
mature feathered plumage at about three fishing launches looking for handouts – one
years. And while an adult pelican weighs reason why they often approach my kayak.
only about 12 pounds, it will consume Their nesting and breeding habits are the
roughly a third of its body weight daily in really cool part.
small herring-type fish. These birds tend to gather in large
The brown pelican has a long, twisted colonies sometimes called a rookery, and
neck that has the seventh and ninth nest very close to each other. The male
vertebrae fused, thus prohibiting it from will pick a nesting area, sometimes on the
straightening that long neck. It ends in a 12- ground and sometimes in a tree. He will
inch beak with an expandable pouch, which court the female with an elaborate series
is the fleshy lower part of its jaw and the of head movements, trying to not be so
largest pouch of any known bird. aggressive she is frightened away. The
So, about those head-crunching dives: female will take a couple days to make up
the pelican is a plunge feeder that cruises her mind, (does this sound familiar?) acting
over the water watching for the silver flash coy, but also being aggressive enough to
of baitfish near the surface. It then tucks show other male suitors her interest in the
its wings and legs, diving headfirst like a original head bobber.
kamikaze into the water. The deeper the In a large rookery, this mating dance
fish the higher the pelican will begin its can get quite comical, almost like being on
dive, and has been known to fall from as a disco floor in the ’70s. Also during this as long as ten days for this job to be
high as 100 feet. They are unique among ritual they are known to make a popping completed and the lovebirds then move in.
sea birds in that they have air sacs in their sound that is the result of them snapping Once the happy couple has taken up
clavicle and under the skin that absorbs their jaws. residency, the first of three eggs will appear
much of the impact of these plunges. If she is interested, the male will bring within three days, with a day between each
Watching a hundred of these birds fishing her sticks, branches and twigs (and what egg. Both parents will take turns incubating
at a time is a majestic sight. female can refuse a free tree branch?) that the eggs. Since the pelican has extremely
Once it breaks the surface, it expands she will begin to weave together into a nest. vascularized legs and feet (lots of blood
the large pouch that can take in as much Sometimes the nest can get very elaborate, vessels), this keeps the eggs warm until they
as three gallons of water and fish, acting especially those in the trees. It can take hatch in about one month. X
like a large scoop, and then throws its head
back to drain the water out through side
slits in the beak. The pelican will swallow
the fish whole as it has no teeth and always
eats immediately after the catch rather than
transporting fish in its beak. It is common
to see gulls trying to pull fish from the
pelican's pouch, often sitting on its head to
do so as the pelican is a most inoffensive
animal and allows these scavengers great
latitude in stealing its work.
Pelicans often travel in flocks consisting
of both male and female, and love to fly in
a V formation, taking turns drafting on the
wings of the lead bird (think NASCAR).
From these formations they strafe the
waves in search of food, and it is common
to find dozens of them hunting in a small
area.
They are not taught to hunt by their
parents but learn to do so by trial and error.
Immature birds do not fare well due to this

Wildlife
At birth the chicks are totally helpless is ready to face the world on its own. just get in the way. It also uses that long
and the parents will feed them by Immature birds are known to make a beak to gather oils from glands at the base
regurgitating food onto the floor of the raspy croaking scream but as adults they are of its tail to preen and waterproof its
nest for them to peck at. At about ten days, mostly mute except during mating. feathers. For areas it cannot reach with its
they have begun to grow feathers and will So now that you have the basics, it is beak, the bird has a serrated middle nail on
also begin to take regurgitated food directly time for the really unusual facts. its webbed foot that takes care of this job.
from the parent’s beak at this time. If food You would think because of its When the pelican gets too hot it will
is scarce only the strongest chick will be fed enormous pouch the pelican would also open its pouch and flutter the sides, causing
to assure its survival and the others will pass have a large tongue, but in fact it is about an air flow to evaporate surface moisture.
away. The chick needs to eat a lot to store the size of a toothpick. Because it has to This is a cooling process similar to humans
body fat because at just 11 weeks he or she swallow fish whole, a large tongue would sweating.
Our way to say thanks.

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Brown pelicans
The only real enemy these birds

have is man. During the 1960s
DDT almost made them extinct,
but fortunately they made a
comeback and today their numbers
are climbing.
Because they never pass up
a free meal I have had them
approach me for an occasional
anchovy that I often scoop out of
the water to feed them, and once I
had a very tired youngster make a
crash landing on my deck. He got
twisted under my deck bungee and
took a header into the drink. He
was completely embarrassed until I
could free his captive webbies.
Observing these unique
creatures has taught me a great
deal about the interconnection
between man, animals and the
ocean, and I consider them a
paddling partner to be appreciated.

They are the rare sea bird that actually eyes and beak that allow them to distill the
drinks saltwater. They have no nostrils but saltwater and pass the brine off in large James Michael Dorsey can be reached at
instead have glands that reside between the droplets. Gulls have this same ability. whalekeeper@yahoo.com

Planning and Safety by Michael Pardy
Kayaking and relationships

I
WAS AT a dinner party couples and families want
recently with a number to spend time together
of other kayakers. And as recreating; conflict arises
kayakers are wont, we turned when limited resources
our conversation to paddling. have to be allocated. It
We quickly exhausted the is easy for one person
usual topics – the relative in a relationship to feel
merits of various pieces of undervalued in the face of
gear, our latest on-water a passion. One paddling
adventures, and our paddling friend actually describes
plans for the summer. herself as a kayak widow
More interesting was the in the face of her partner’s
conservation that followed. It passion.
started when J (who is single) Even if all members of
bemoaned the shortage of the family enjoy paddling,
single paddlers and the challenges she faced they often enjoy paddling for different
when trying to introduce her latest partner
to the sport. Apparently things weren’t
Kayak outings reasons. This point was brought home to
me several years ago when my wife and I
going well on the water between J and her
partner. Soon most of us were sharing our
need not be were planning a multi-day trip on the west
coast with our four year old. I was looking
own challenges, misadventures and lessons
from paddling with our families, wives, a shortcut forward to a few days on the open coast.
My wife was more interested in exploring
husbands and partners. It was a rich vein the local ecosystem. But it was my son who
for conversation and kept us going for over
an hour.
to divorce court really brought the point home. His priority
was to spend time with his family, regardless
It also got me thinking about the I have tried to look for underlying of our destination. We all wanted to go
experiences of other friends, family and themes in these conversations and support paddling, but for three distinct reasons.
colleagues. Over the years I have had this anecdotal evidence with the technical Reconciling differing goals and
versions of this conversation with my literature. There are two main challenges expectations is not easy. The first step
parents, my wife, my son, friends of the that have emerged as consistent issues is actually articulating a set of goals
family and others. There is also a growing facing families and couples in outdoor and expectations. The second step is
body of literature about relationships in sports. compromise. Not all goals and expectations
outdoor sports. It is clearly a sensitive issue, Different Goals and Expectations can be accommodated in a single trip. Often
but also an important one that speaks to the One person’s passion is another’s part- family members and couples will have to
pleasures and challenges of kayaking with time pastime, which can lead to conflict create space for another’s passion. But
people emotionally important to us. over time, money and commitment. Many equally, the passionate paddler will have to

Kayaking couples
give up some water time for other priorities then husband and now father. My wife
or work toward other goals on trips. occasionally reminds me I am lucky
Learning from a Partner to still be around because early in our
Many friends expressed their frustration relationship I tried to teach her how to
at learning from a more experienced whitewater canoe. My tone of voice and
partner. The learners all expressed style of teaching were better suited to
feelings of vulnerability, which often went working with male teenagers (with whom
unacknowledged by the teacher/partner. I had been teaching for a few years). The
The teachers often felt frustrated by the situation came to a head after a particularly
lack of speedy progress of their student/ challenging afternoon, and if we had been
partner. The student-teacher relationship paddling a shorter canoe, she would have
is based on a fundamental inequality decapitated me with the paddle! I am
that can be incompatible with our social happy to report we survived these early
relationships. experiences and we continue to enjoy our
Many couples agreed it was better to time on the water together as a family.
learn from an independent instructor. If When asked what skills would have
couples insisted on teaching and learning the most impact on their enjoyment of
together they offered the following advice. paddling with their partners and families,
Teachers, acknowledge that learning most folks emphasized the need for better
takes time, practice and patience. Offer communication. Specifically, folks talked
suggestions, not commands. Accept that about the importance of listening to what is
your partner may not share your passion. being said (and left unsaid), creating a time
Be honest about your own abilities, out for communication so the pressures of
knowledge and experience. time and risk can be mitigated, and making
Learners, accept that your partner may sure everyone has a chance to talk.
not be the best teacher, regardless of how None of this is new information to
much ability, knowledge and experience couples and families. What is perhaps new
they have. Acknowledge that your partner is its importance in paddling, where many
wants you to succeed so you can enjoy the of us turn to get away from the demands of
activity together. Be honest and gentle in work and family. Exploring BC?
your feedback.
I have had to work through many of Michael Pardy lives in Victoria, where he runs Discover Wavelength's
these issues in my role first as boyfriend, SKILS Ltd. He can be reached at info@skils.ca. recreation map series.
• Desolation Sound/
Discovery Islands
• Broken Group /
Barkley Sound
• Clayoquot Sound
At all major retailers or online
at wavelengthmagazine.com

Fishing Angles by Dan Armitage
L
AST SPRING, boating made
national news due to an anchoring
mishap involving several
professional athletes, three of whom lost
their lives. As soon as I heard the anglers Anchors or stakes can be used
were fishing a sunken wreck in the Gulf to keep the kayak in place
of Mexico, I had a handle on what had while fishing, even if the angler
happened. Having fished offshore wrecks is not aboard.
myself, I know that you need to anchor the
boat to remain over the structure and the
fish the wreck attracts. I also know how
dangerous that can be when waves or wind weight but their claw-like arms grab and
or current – or all three – kick up and start Staying put a simple hold subsurface structure such as rock and
dashing an anchored boat around. Unless wood to tether their craft in place. Compact
you have a way of quickly releasing that
anchor line, the conditions can quickly
do-it-yourself mushroom anchors rely on weight more
than shape, and are best used on mud or
conspire to swamp the boat, using the force sand or structure-free bottoms. Between
of the unforgiving tether against those of project with a little those two extremes are anchors of various
the sea. I suspect that the anchor line on shapes and designs, many home made.
the ill-fated boat in question was made rope and chain A do-it-yourself anchor
tight to a cleat on the bow, and before that One favorite do-it-yourself anchor
line could be loosed – by untying the knot, The most important part of a kayak’s among kayak anglers is made of short
slipping the noose or cutting it outright – ground tackle, as anchoring gear is known lengths of 3/8-inch-diameter chain
the damage had been done and the boat had in boating circles, is found on the boat end attached to the end of a line using a snap or
swamped. of the rig. You must be able to quickly carabiner. Having a few foot-long lengths
Those same forces come into play release the anchor line, or rode, if you find of a dozen links or so allows the angler
aboard any boat that is linked to the water’s yourself in a situation that risks swamping to quickly attach only as much weight as
bottom via an anchor, and few craft are as your craft. Several styles of quick-release is needed to anchor or slow the drift of
vulnerable to the consequences as a kayak. jam cleats are available and popular with a kayak. A benefit of the chain is that its
Anglers considering using an anchor to paddlers, devices that are mounted on the shape is such that it rarely hangs up on
stop or slow their kayak’s passage must gunwale that use the line’s own tension to rocks or other structure, making it a favorite
weigh their options – and each situation – keep it snug without having to tie off with among fishermen in current who want to
carefully. a knot or use a loop. A quick flick will loose slow their drift to a pace that allows them
Anchors are powerful tools for anglers, the line and free the kayak from anchor. to work an area with casts without stopping
allowing their boats to remain in position Some kayakers place a colorful float on the altogether.
within catching range of the fish being end of the line to allow them to spot it and Another issue is the anchor point on
sought. The bottom-hugging devices are retrieve the anchor rig once they gain more the kayak itself. Many kayak anglers prefer
also dangerous in current, a condition that control over the situation. the anchor line to be snug to the boat’s
kayakers frequently – and intentionally On the positive side, it doesn’t take much stern, so that the wind or current is at the
– surround themselves with. Avoiding weight to slow or stop the progress of a angler’s back, making for easier casting
immersion in our favorite element is a boat as sleek and light as a kayak. Anchors and a unobstructed view “downstream.” A
matter of knowing when and where an designed for paddle-powered craft are much kayak’s shape dictates that the safest anchor
anchor is appropriate and when it is not. It smaller than those intended for traditional in terms of stability is off the bow or stern,
is always risky to anchor in current, and the boats, and weight is only one factor in an but in cases when the wind and current are
consequences of a lightweight boat coming anchor’s design. Anchors use weight, shape moderate, you can vary the anchor point
to a dead stop when an anchor suddenly or a combination of both to achieve their along the length of the kayak to better
catches can be quick and dangerous. task. Grapnel anchors are relatively light in position yourself with regard to your target.

Kayak anchors
That’s why many fishing kayaks are fitted with trolley systems down
one side of their boat, either home-made or available as aftermarket
accessories or options from some manufacturers. These clothesline-
type rigs allow infinite adjustment of that anchor or pivot point
from the comfort of the cockpit, yet maintain the all-important
quick-release safety feature.
A final anchoring device, the stake, is popular with anglers who
get out and wade, using their kayaks simply to get to and from the
fishing grounds before exiting the craft to pursue their quarry on
foot. Just remember to keep a close eye on the wind, current and
tide when walking away from a staked-out kayak; an oversight could
leave you up that creek without paddle or a boat.

Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest.
He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show and Grapnel, for gripping, and chain for gliding are two extremes in kayak
presents kayaking fishing seminars at boat shows. anchor designs.

Reflections Writing reflecting the spirit of paddling By Terry Johnson
Mixing it up in Killarney
“C
OME ON – put in on,” They began to “psht” at me – a wet
prods Rebecca, my 14- noise of air forced out of their nostrils.
year-old stepdaughter. Tanzer stood frozen on shore. I kept
She prances around to show me that still with the canoe not wanting to scare
wearing a lifejacket upside down like a them off. They flared their nostrils,
diaper is not embarrassing or un-cool twitched their whiskers and pulsed up
at all. and down in the water.
“Just do it! It’s so fun.” With “Psht,” I said back to them, and they
complete abandon, she does a little jig looked at me with renewed interest.
on the rock, and then leaps into the Finally, I heard a noise behind me.
lake with a splash. “Look at the otters!” I whispered.
“Dia-per-BOB, dia-per-BOB,” “Oh!” Vicky gasped. I put the canoe
chant Rebecca and her sister Victoria, down and the otters moved away
trying to coax me to stick my legs into
the armholes of my zipped-up life jacket,
Canoe trip proves slightly. I could see two more otters – an
adult with three young. The adult was sitting
wiggle it up past my butt and bob around in
the lake with them.
the perfect outing on a log next to the shore eating a piece of
fish. Her sharp teeth gleamed as she fiercely
We were on a one-week paddling chewed with an open mouth, and we could
vacation along the outskirts of Killarney
Provincial Park in Ontario. Denis, my
for blended family hear the wet smacking sounds. She slipped
into the water and all four of them glided
husband, his two girls Victoria, age 12 and and stood a moment balancing the canoe. farther away. The young ones peeked back
Rebecca, and our dog Tanzer were on this Dad went nuts with the camera snapping at us once, and then began to playfully roll
adventure we had talked about for years. pictures. over each other.
Now, we were finally doing it. Rebecca gamely headed down the We watched together in silence, and then,
We had stopped early today. This cute trail with me behind in case she needed “That was so cool!” Rebecca said.
little island we checked out for a mid- to take a break. A slippery root almost Back home the girls and I gathered
morning blueberry-picking break proved spelled disaster, but she strained, paused, around the kitchen table with the full
too nice to leave. Now it looked like “diaper rebalanced the canoe and continued on Killarney map spread out.
bobbing” was going to be the afternoon for the entire 280 metres. I helped her “Who can draw our route on the
entertainment. I finally gave up my dignity take the canoe off and we high-fived each map?” I challenged. Rebecca picked up the
and donned the diaper, struck a pose on the other. Her flushed face broke into a wide highlighter and began to retrace our trip.
rock, and to the sound of applause, jumped grin of accomplishment. I grinned with “And this portage is where we hid under
in. accomplishment as well. That high five was the boat from the lightning ... and ... this
We had seven portages planned for our a little moment that we could call our own. is the campsite Vicky got busted with her
second day moving along the northwest Near the end of the day I heard Tanzer candy-stash in the tent. And this is the
side of Killarney. We were coming up splash into the water just ahead of me, beach we had the water races ... ”
to our third portage when Rebecca, my though she is not a water dog. I came round Looking back we could see the distance
paddling partner for the day asked, “Can I the corner with the canoe on my shoulders we covered, paddling and portaging
carry the canoe?” and there, not six feet from me, were two completely by our own power; carrying
“Wow! Sure you can!” We got out and otters rising so far out of the water that everything we needed to live. The challenges
unloaded. I showed Rebecca the easiest way they looked like little totem poles. of the portages and headwinds are like the
to pick up a canoe. challenges faced by a blended family. Both
“Stand in front of me there, Beck, and require some work, but the rewards are
help me roll it up. Do it together ... ready always worth it. We caught eyes, united in
... keep the bow on the ground ... up ... our appreciation of ourselves – and maybe
that’s it.” We stood holding the canoe over a little closer now than when we left.
our heads. I told her to let go and move up
to get under the yoke. Gingerly I lowered Terry Johnson is already planning her next
the canoe to rest on her narrow shoulders. Diaper bobbing, an activity combining paddling adventure. Visit her at
Rebecca lifted the bow off the ground relaxation with a complete loss of dignity. www.terrylynnjohnson.com

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tours in the coastal waters of BC. Custom itineraries for Web: www.freewheeling.ca
women, all designed to 'get into your element'! Email: adventure@freewheeling.ca
Phone: 250-245-9580
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Email: info@elementstravel.com MKCCA 3EA+AYAKING
Batstar Adventure Tours BVYVlVh`V@Vcj8ZcigZ
Professionally guided sea kayaking trips to Vancouver adXViZYWn6a\dcfj^c
EVg`!DciVg^dd[[Zgh]^\]an
Island and Canada's Central Coast. All inclusive. We're
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thrilled to be the only Vancouver Island-based guided [gdb7Z\^ccZgid:meZgi
sea kayaking company on the National Geographic aZkZah#LZZ`ZcY
Best Travel Adventure Companies on Earth list. Bamfield, British Columbia VcY*"9Vn8djghZh#
Phone: 1-877-449-1230 Accommodations, self-guided kayak rentals and kayak
Web: www.batstar.com transport between the Broken Group Islands, Deer
Group Islands and Bamfield. 14 years experience in Tours and Services: Yukon
planning kayak vacations in Barkley Sound.
Phone: 1-888-728-6200
Web: www.brokenislandadventures.com
Email: broken@island.net
Odyssey Kayaking *\ÊÓxäxÎxxxÎ Kanoe People Ltd.
BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central
Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales,
BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip
guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals
planning, and Custom Tours. 8625 Shipley Street
summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge.
(across from the Post Office) Port Hardy.
Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years.
Phone: 250-902-0565 or toll-free 1-888-792-3366
,iÌ>Ã]Ê/ÕÀÃ]ÊiÃÃÃ Web: www.kanoepeople.com
Email: odyssey@island.net
ÀLiÀÌLÀÕViJÌiÕÃ°iÌ Email: info@kanoepeople.com
Web: www.odysseykayaking.com
£Ó£Ê ÌÊ
ÛiÊ,`°]Ê->ÌÕÀ>ÊÃ>`]Ê
Ê6ä ÊÓ9ä Phone: 867-668-4899

explore
canada’s coastal
national parks
Gwaii Haanas National Park
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Reserve and Haida Heritage Site
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Réserve de parc national et site du
R
ppatrimoine Haïda Gwaii Haanas explorez
les parcs nationaux
côtiers du canada
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

Réserve de parc national Pacific Rim
Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

Réserve de parc national des Îles-Gulf
www. pc.gc.ca

Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Summer 2009

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Wavelength Kayaking Magazine: Summer 2009

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WaveLength

Your complete kayaking and coastal exploration resource

Plus: East Creek

WL_SU09_master.indd 1 5/27/2009 11:35:41 AM

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This month's features: Regular columns:

34 Pelican Primer 42 Reﬂections

SUMMER 2009 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE 3

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WaveLength Rediscovering old ground MAGAZINE

Cert no. SW-COC-002226

4 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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Meet the real last fiord

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8 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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Island record bid to aid GSA

SUMMER 2009 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE 9

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How one of Vancouver

10 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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Rainforest at Klaskish Inlet.

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14 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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Lessum Creek. Elaine McRory photo

James 'Jamz' Luce photo

SUMMER 2009 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE 15

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There's a new way

16 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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Leanne Chetcuti tackles a tough portion

Imagine the West Coast Trail 20 years ago

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Photo by Fran Solar

Just off Kyuquot Sound on Vancouver

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20 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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hot pot, all I can remember is chanting “paddle, paddle, brace!

SUMMER 2009 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE 21

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Pillar Rock dwarfs a kayaker.

Rocky outcrop near blowhole, Naikoon Provincial Park.

22 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE SUMMER 2009

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The author paddling in Skidegate Inlet.

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PROV / STATE __COUNTRY _