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Wooden Book Press (PARTS LIST)

Most of these are just things I had in my garage. This is a sim !e "e#i$e and I must gi#e thanks to Mr. A!%ert &u%er for his %ri!!iant $on$e t. '(T)* The num%ers in arenthesis are just for referen$e. The num%er of ea$h art needed to %ui!d the ma$hine are on the right. (+) ,- . +/- . +0- %ase111111111111111111111111111111111111+ (2) +32- . 4- . +2- 5 rights111111111111111111111111111111112 (6) ,- . 7- . +/- ie$es for the %ook ress111111111111112 (4) +- . 6- %!o$k for the a er sto 111111111111111111111111+ (/) 8- . +0- . +2- %oard for g!ue ress1111111111111111111+ (0) ,- . 2- . 4- guides for s!ider1111111111111111111111111112 (7) 8- . 2- $onne$ting s$re9s1111111111111111111111111111112 (:) + ; in$h 9ood s$re9s111111111111111111111111111111111+2 (<) 8- . 0- ma$hine s$re9s1111111111111111111111111111111112 (+=) 8- 9ing nuts111111111111111111111111111111111111111111112 (++) 8- 9ashers +- 9ide1111111111111111111111111111111111112
(+2) 8- . 4- ma$hine s$re9 and 9ing nut for the %ook sto +

'(T)* for item (/) a%o#e> I sim !y $ut the %oard into t9o 0- . +/- ie$es
ASS)MBL? I'STR5@TI('S

Most of the assembly was fairly simple. There are a couple of gotchas you need to know about. If you have lined up your parts lets walk through the assembly. Here is how I assembled mine. NOTE: for the sake of clarity I am calling item number (3) the book press and item number (5) the glue press

! the first thing I did was to mark a line across the base board where I wanted to mount my
uprights. This mark will line up with the center mark on each upright.

2 . Then

I marked the center of each upright on both sides and the top. Putting the center lines on both sides of the upright will help us align the book press and facilitate the placement of the hole for our pivot screws.

. I line up the center marks on the inside of one upright with the line on the base board! drilled a small hole slightly smaller than the wood screws I intend to use. I drill through the upright and into the base board.

I insert one wood screw! turn the whole thing on its side" making sure everything is still aligned and drill and insert three more screws. The number of screws will vary based upon the width of your uprights. I repeat the process on the other upright. It will look like this#

$. I put the back portion of the book press on long edge and marked the center on both ends. %.
I lay down my glue board under the place where I will install the back book press board. &'T(# I added a )*)+, plastic spacer -fle.ible cutting board/ on top of the glue board - I did this to give my self enough room for the book press to pivot up and back and clear the glue board/. It should be a snug fit but not too tight.

+. 'nce the glue board and the spacer are in place I then lower the book press back board into
place.

0. I line up the center marks on the edge of the book press to the center marks on the uprights.
I then use a s1uare to make sure that the book board is e.actly 23 degrees. I check again to see if all my marks are aligned and then I clamp the whole thing together. 'nce clamped I recheck all of my marks. If all are correct. I proceed to step 4.

4. In this step we will install the book press


5irst we draw a hori6ontal line on the outside of our uprights that is appro.imately ) to ) 7, from the top of the book press board. 8e should already have the vertical center mark drawn back in step . 8here the two lines intersect on the outside of the upright is where we will drill our pivot hole. 8e will drill right through and into the book press board. 8e will repeat the process on the other upright.

8ithout moving our clamps we will now insert our screws. -item number 0/ 9crew them in until tight and then back them off a turn or two. :emove your clamps remove the )*)+, spacer and check that the book board moves freely. It should be a bit tight but not hard to move. Here we will also make sure that the book press clears the glue press! but is a little snug. ;d<ust as necessary. =ou may have to back off a bit on the screws or do a little sanding to get it all right.

2. &e.t I install a stop to make sure that the book press board does not go beyond 23 degrees
when in the down position. I recheck to see that it is still s1uare. If yes! I now glue a small board onto one of the uprights !on the back side of the book press board. -pic/ I used superglue on mine and it worked <ust fine. It also doesnt hold up my assembly. >e careful not to get too much on so it does not glue your book board as well. ?ust keep it from the edge touching the book press board.

)3. &ow we will install the stationary part of the glue press board.

8hat is important here" is that you align the edge of the glue press board with the inside edge of the book press board. -see photo/.

'nce you are aligned. @lamp down the glue board. :echeck you alignment and if correct drill a pilot hole in both outside edges of the clue board. Insert wood screws and tighten. 'nce those are in add two more screws on either side near the back of the book board.

)). 5or the slider I simply glued a ) . ) . )2, board on the remaining half of the A composite
board and that was it. -pic/

)2. &e.t we will install the guides for the slide. Bsing item -+/ I simple put them in place
drilled pilot holes and inserted wood screws. Item -4/. - Pic/

'nce you are satisfied that this portion of the assembly works as advertised we will move on to the front part of the book press. )3. If you have not done so! now is the time to mark and cut the front board like the e.ample. =ou should also have decided what you will use for the stop and be prepared to insert it.

&'T(# a couple of things to be aware of here. 5irst what determines the ma.imum height of the book you can bind! is the distance from the book stop on the left as you face the machine and the A machine screw on the right used to press the book.. 'n my design I can press up to a )2, height book. If I had used a )+, width for my base board I could press up to ) inches in book height. 9econd! you will want to install the machine screws closer to the bottom of the press" to ensure you get a good tight press. Mine are located !inch from the bottom and ! inch from the side. I also discovered that the reason you need to @ut the front board like it is shown is for access and ease of use. =ou dont need the full height of the board and it makes it very difficult to get a good press without the screws binding. I have since added a small wooden handle to my front press board because it makes it even easier to move it in and out. 8hen all of your cutting is done" it is now time to drill the holes for the machine screws. I removed both boards! lined up the bottom and sides and clamped them together. 9ince I had already marked the places for my screws! they are placed ), from the side and ), from the bottom. I simply drill them with a A drill. =ou may have to play with the front board if it seems a bit too tight. It needs to move freely but without a lot of play. 8hen this is done you are almost home free. To install my book stop I used a ).). , dowel and drilled out the center. I then placed it where I wanted to mount it and use the same drill to drill down through the dowel and into the back board. I could have mounted it with a wood screw but this seemed like a better alternative. 8ith the stop in place drill down as far as the dowel will allow and then remove the dowel and finish the hole. I used a shorter A, C $, machine screw and wing nut to secure it. ;nd that should give you a working book binding press. 'h" and in case you are wondering. Mine cost me all of )3 dollars. If you get stuck or <ust need more info! you can email me at da"is#$!%hotmail com If you do build one! drop me a line with a photo. I would love to see what others have done. Deep in mind that there is I am sure other ways to put this al together. 9ince I had no plans this was what I came up with. =ou can do whatever makes sense to you.