TextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishing

TextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishing
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TextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishingTextileFinishing
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Lecture 1 Lecture 1
Introduction to Textile Finishing Introduction to Textile Finishing
ZeeshanKhatri
BETextilePGDTextilePECTextATI(UK)CColASDC(UK)
2009
Todays Presentation
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Today s Presentation
Introduction
Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing
Importance
The challenge and charm
Mechanical Finishing processes
Importance
Chemical Finishing processes
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Discussion
Zeeshan Khatri 2009
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Introduction
Fi i hi i th l t f t i t i th d ti f
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Fi nishi ng is the last manufacturing step in the production of
textile fabrics
an integral part of wet processing
the operation where the final fabric properties are developed
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the operation where the final fabric properties are developed
improving the appearance or usefulness of a fabric after it leaves
the loomor knitting machine can be considered a finishing step.
the last chance to provide the properties that customers will p p p
value.
Fi ni sh can be either chemicals that change the g
fabric's aesthetic and/or physical properties or changes
in texture or surface characteristics brought about by
physically manipulating the fabric with mechanical
devices It can also be a combination of the two
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
devices. It can also be a combination of the two.
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Categories
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FINSHING
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Mechanical (Dry) Chemical (Wet)
Finishing is commonly divided into two categories, Chemi cal
and Mechani cal In chemical finishing water is used as the
Mechanical (Dry) Chemical (Wet)
and Mechani cal. In chemical finishing, water is used as the
medium for applying the chemicals. Heat is used to drive off the
water and to activate the chemicals. Mechanical finishing is
considered a dry operation even though moisture and chemicals
f d d f ll h f b i h i l are often needed to successfully process the fabric. Mechanical
devices are used in both categories - the major distinction
between the two is what caused the desired fabric change, the
chemical or the machine?
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
chemical or the machine?
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Todays concern!
T d ' fi i h d l ith i t f
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Today's finisher deals with many points of concerns
since he is responsible for the ultimate quality of the
fabric.
with chemistry i e reactions with the fabric
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with chemistry, i.e. reactions with the fabric,
safe handling of bulk quantities of
hazardous chemicals,
worker safety and environmental issues involving air worker safety and environmental issues involving air
and water discharges.
the machines used to process the fabric and controlling
them to produce first quality goods them to produce first quality goods.
economic factors, i.e. chemical and process costs, output.
certification of quality and timely delivery of products to
customers
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
customers.
Wet and dry or chemical and
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Wet and dry or chemical and
mechanical finishing
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Chemical finishing or wet finishing involves
the addition of chemicals to textiles to achieve a
desired res lt
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desired result.
Physical properties such as dimensional stability
and chemical properties such as flame and chemical properties such as flame
retardancy can both be improved with chemical
finishing. g
Typically, the appearance of the textile is
unchanged after chemical finishing
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Wet and dry or chemical and
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Wet and dry or chemical and
mechanical finishing
h i l fi i hi d fi i hi
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Mechanical finishing or dry finishing uses
mainly physical (especially mechanical) means to
change fabric properties and usually alters the fabric
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appearance as well.
It also encompasses thermal processes such as heat
setting (thermal finishing) setting (thermal finishing).
Typical mechanical finishes include calendering,
emerising, compressive shrinkage, raising, brushing
d h i i d i ll f l and shearing or cropping, and especially for wool
fabrics milling, pressing and setting with crabbing
and decatering
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
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The challenge and charm
Th f l ti f h i l fi i h i
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The proper formulation of chemical finishes requires
consideration of several important factors:
1 Th t f t til b i t t d (fib d
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1. The type of textile being treated (fibre and
construction);
2. The performance requirements of the finish (extent
of effect and durability); of effect and durability);
3. The cost to benefit ratio;
4. Restrictions imposed on the process by availability
of machinery procedure requirements environmental of machinery, procedure requirements, environmental
considerations;
5. Compatibility of different formula components as
well as the interaction of the finishing effects.
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
well as the interaction of the finishing effects.
To bring all these parameters to an acceptable
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To bring all these parameters to an acceptable
compromise
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is not easy!
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Mostly one bath application for economic reasons
hi i f h h d h ll f Thi s i s often the hardest challenge of
chemi cal fi ni shi ng!
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
All components of the finish bath must be
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All components of the finish bath must be:
Compatible
Avoid precipitations of anionic with cationic
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Avoid precipitations of anionic with cationic
products
The emulsion stability of different products may
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The emulsion stability of different products may
be reduced by product interactions.
More difficult is often the second hurdle, the
compatibility of the pri mary and secondary
effects of the different types of finishes that are
being combined:
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
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Some effects are similar or assist each other for example
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Some effects are similar or assist each other, for example
silicone elastomers cause water repellency, softeners
bring about antistatic effects and antistatic finishes can
be softening.
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Some effects are obviously contradictory for example Some effects are obviously contradictory, for example
hydrophobic finishes and hydrophilic antistatic finishes,
or stiffening and elastomeric finishes, or stiffening and
softening finishes.
Other types of finishes typically reduce the main effect of a Other types of finishes typically reduce the main effect of a
finish type, for example the flame retardant effect is
decreased by nearly all other types of chemical finishes as
they add flammable components to the fabric.
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
y p
Th th fi i h i l d h th bi d
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Thus the fi ni sher i s glad when the combi ned
pr oducts do not i nter fer e, nei ther i n the
fi ni shi ng bath nor on the fabr i c, wi th all
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thei r di ffer ent effects, but thi s usually i s the
excepti on rather than the rule.
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This discussion of the interaction of the primary
effects of the combined products can be expanded to
th i d ff t th d i d d th their secondary effects, the desired and the
undesired ones.
Obviously this task quickly approaches confusion. It
is not surprising that successful chemical finishing is
sometimes thought of as being nearly magi cal
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
sometimes thought of as being nearly magi cal.
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Thus it is not surprising that an expert system was
developed (TEXPERTO fromClariant)
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The recipe formulation is not only a challenge but also
a charming task. For those finishers who have the a charming task. For those finishers who have the
knowledge and some experience, chemical finishing
is an inspiring and fascinating job, where the
interaction of chemical understanding technical interaction of chemical understanding, technical
grasp, textile feeling and an instinct for market
trends leads to considerable success and increased
l (b h i h h f h fi i h d f b i d i value (both in the worth of the finished fabric and in
the esteemof the finish designer).
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
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Importance of Chemical finishing
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Chemical finishing has always been an
important component of textile processing, but
in recent ears the trend to high tech prod cts
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in recent years the trend to high tech products
has increased the interest and use of chemical
finishes finishes.
As the use of high performance textiles has
grown, the need for chemical finishes to provide g , p
the fabric properties required in these special
applications has grown accordingly.
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
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The amount of textile chemical auxiliaries sold
and used globally in one year is estimated to be
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t and used globally in one year is estimated to be
about one-tenth of the worlds fibre
production.
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With fibre production currently at 60 mi lli on
b 6 i lli f h i l tonnes, about 6 mi lli on tonnes of chemical
auxiliaries are consumed.
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Distribution of textile auxiliaries by
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Distribution of textile auxiliaries by
market share
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Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Importance of the finishing product groups in order
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Softeners are clearly the
most important
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most important
individual product
group.
In terms of value, the
repellent group is the
leader with the highest
ratio of cost per amount ratio of cost per amount.
This reflects the
relatively high cost of the
fluorochemical
subgroup of repellents.
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Distribution of finishing product groups by amount and value
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Distribution of finishing product groups by amount and value
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Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
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Questions
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology Zeeshan Khatri 2009