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GROWING HOUSEPLANTS
csIIy cno cuccess/uIIy
By
Kent Killen
Copyright 2000
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This book is copyrighted by Kenton G. Killen. No
Copying, duplicating, electronic storage and
retrievable or any other system yet to be invented is
allowed without express written permission from
Kenton G. Killen or whomever the copyright may
hereinafter be assigned. Copyright date 2000.
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Dedicated To:
My two children Tina and Gene
Dale and Loriann who made me Family
The Jacksons for all those wonderful holiday meals
Ray and Regina who were friends
when I really needed friends
Dr. Toth who kept me well enough to write.
GROWING HOUSE PLANTS
Easily & Successfully
by
KENT KILLEN
PREFACE
Did you ever walk into a room or
someones house and get the feeling that it was
bare? Did a room ever feel impersonal or dead
like a cheap motel room?
It may have felt that way because there
were no living plants in the room. Nothing makes
a home feel more lived in than a beautiful, well
maintained plant. It can be a plant with beautiful
flowers or a lush foliage plant. Either says, Hey,
I live hear and I enjoy life!
Although the homes and apartments of
today are sealed and barricaded more than the
ancient cavemans dwelling, some plants may be
grown in almost any living environment. Another
problem that many of you will need to overcome
is lack of time and space to grow the plants. The
time and space constraints can be solved by
selecting plants which will fit into your schedule.
The main requirements to succeeding in
growing attractive plants are variety, water,
temperature, soil, air, and pest control.
Here is to your success!!!
VARIETIES
Before you rush down to the store and buy many
beautiful plants which will surely die, study the
requirements for growing in this book and then
consult the table in back to select plants which
will fit your lifestyle. If you are subject to be sent
on assignment for a week at a time, do not pick a
plant that needs watering each day.
To make the choice easier, and to see which will
be most likely to grow, the most common plants
will be divided into seven groups.
Flowering plants
Annual flowering plants
Hardy flowering plants
Bulb plants
Foliage upright plants
Foliage vining plants
Succulents and Cacti
LIGHT
Before we get to the different types of the plants,
we will cover the growing requirements. We are
starting with light because that is usually the
biggest problem in modern houses and
apartments.
All true plants require light in order to live and
grow. Most plants need to be protected from
direct sunlight. If they grow outdoors, why do we
need to protect them? Light coming through glass
can act as if it is coming through a magnifying
glass and burn the plant. Other plants normally
grow in the shade.
Houseplants have been bred to require less light.
This does not mean No Light. Generally, plants
will manufacture food and grow better if more
light is available. However, we face another
contradiction. Shady plants can be retarded in
their growth if given too much light.
Normally, flowering plants need more light.
Geraniums, Begonias, Cyclamens, and
Chrysanthemums do best with more light such as
a south window which gets more hours of sun. (In
the future, I shall type Mums. That is too many
letters.) Plants grown for foliage will usually do
better with less light. Palms, ferns, vines, etc.
should not be placed in direct sunlight. Nature
can break these rules. I have wild fern growing in
the full sun all the day. It is growing wild. I would
never try to grow this as a house plant and put it
in a bright window.
West windows should be avoided unless you
have some type blocking curtain or shade. Look
out the window at 3:00 in the afternoon. You will
see how strong the sun could be on fragile plants,
even flowering ones.
Except for certain foliage plants, North windows
do not have enough light for growing.
Just from checking the available windows, you
can see where you are starting to limit the plants
that can be grown successfully. You need to do
this check with each of the requirements.
For an additional investment, you can purchase
lights that will make it possible to grow lush plants
such as African Violets. These lights make it
feasible to grow plants in a windowless
basement. I have seen plants grown with lights
only and then win awards at shows.
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MOISTURE
Most plants need a moist atmosphere to attain healthy
development. This presents a problem in most dwellings,
as the heating and cooling is designed to create a dry
atmosphere. Humans need a dry atmosphere to prevent
mildew and other fungus. A good compromise for most
plants is to spray the leaves once a day. DO NOT Spray
African Violets or any fuzzy leafed plants.
You can have zone humidity by using a plastic or
aluminum tray and filling with coarse pebbles to a depth
of about two inches. Place the pots on top of this gravel.
Any over watering will be caught by the tray and
evaporate upward to the plants. If the plants are potted in
a real clay pot (not the fake look-alikes) it will absorb
some moisture from the rocks and pass it through to the
soil.
As you read the following, keep in mind that over
watering will rot roots:
An ample supply of water should be furnished the plant at
the roots. Plants growing in the dry conditions of the
home lose water through the leaves. They lose more
water than the ones growing outdoors because of the low
humidity. This must be replaced by the roots. The water
in the soil serves two functions. The first is to supply water
to the plant tissues. The second is to dissolve the
nutrients from the soil so that the plant may take them into
the root system and use them.
Lack of water causes the plant to wilt. The internal water
pressure is what holds the new growth upright. After
wilting, the plant begins to starve from lack of food.
Too much water will cause the plant to suffocate. The
plant must have oxygen to the roots. When a plant is
continually over watered, the oxygen is driven from the
soil and no air cavities are left to hold any oxygen. The
oxygen contained in the water will be used up quickly.
Decay of the roots and the death of the plant will follow.
The ideal condition for the majority of plants is the soil
condition shortly after watering. The excess water has
drained away and pulled air into the soil as it drained. The
soil will be damp and have plenty of oxygen. If that is the
case, why not water twice a day? Hydroponics culture
does just that. However in soil culture, over watering and
lack of oxygen will result as the soil will hold more and
more of the water.
There is no one rule for watering plants. Water a plant
when it needs it. Water well and let it dry before watering
again seems to work most of the time, but not all.
Frequent small waterings do not seem to work as well.
More contradictions: Plants in small containers usually
need watering more often. Flowers in clay pots will need
watering more than flowers in plastic pots. The clay allows
moisture to evaporate while plastic does not. More plants
die from over watering when grown in plastic pots. Those
plants in boxes will not need to be watered as often. The
size of the plant in relation to the container will also
determine how quickly the plant runs out of water. All of
this brings us back to Water when they need it.
MORE WATERING RULES
Note the texture of the plant stems and leaves. The
harder the foliage, the less water needed. I killed a nice
rubber plant from over watering. I watered it each time I
watered some other plants. This does not work. Plants
like African Violets must be watered more often, as they
have softer leaves.
Slower growing plants need less water than fast growing
plants. Plants such as the hydrangeas need the extra
water in order to grow rapidly. Slower growing plants such
as primroses, will need less water. They can be damaged
by over watering.
Leaf area is another factor in water usage. A broad, soft
leafed plant will use more water.
The native habitat of the plant is another indicator of
water needed. The desert area plants, such as the cacti
and succulents require less water. This is especially true
during winter.
The humidity of the room will have a large effect on the
frequency of watering. The lower the humidity, the faster
the plant will dry out.
In the resting stage, plants need very little moisture. This
is true of the palms and other tropical plants which grow
very slowly during their winter resting stage. Plants with
broad, leathery leaves need a moist atmosphere, but
must have a well drained soil. Ferns require lots of water,
they are mostly water, but must have a well drained soil.
Some plants will thrive under too much water - if they get
oxygen in the water. The elephant ear and umbrella plant
are two that fit this description.
When the top of the soil is dry, water thoroughly. Water
enough that the water goes through the soil and flows out
the drainage holes in the bottom. The extra water will wet
the soil and dry out the trapped air which has been
depleted of oxygen. The weight of the water acts as a
suction and brings fresh air into the soil around roots of
the plants.
The shortcut of setting plants in water and letting the
water be drawn to the surface through the pot is not
advised.
Automatic watering pots are available at the plant stores.
They are not as good as the soak and dry method for
most plants. They work quite well for starting seeds and
for plants such as African violets. They also work better
than forgetting the plant and letting it die. They consist of
a wick which hangs in a container of water. Make sure the
wick is of glass or some of the plastic wicks. Cotton will
rot. The wick draws the water from the container into the
soil.
Foliage plants have a tendency to grow too rapidly if given
the optimum amount of water. To avoid this, keep the soil
just wet enough for health leaves that are not wilted. In
many cases, this means watering only once a week.
TEMPERATURE
Most foliage plants grow well in the home as the
temperature is about the same as that preferred in the
natural setting. Tropical flowering plants also do well in
warm rooms. This may be the reason that African Violets
are so popular. Since temperatures in the home are at 70
degrees or above, many of the cool plants do not do well.
Plants such as hydrangeas, cinerarias, cyclamens, and
primroses will not do well. They prefer temperatures of
65-70 in the day and 55-60 at night. During the winter,
you can make the plants last longer by moving them to a
cooler room at night. The flowers on most plants will last
longer if you place them in a cooler location at night.
On cold nights, do not leave plants near windows.. If you
must do so, put a curtain or layers of paper between the
plants and the window. Heat will radiate from the leaves
to the cold glass. African Violets are very sensitive to this
effect.
Plants will not do well if you place them near radiators,
heaters or hot air vents. The extra heat causes drying of
the leaves.
Fumes from coal burning or manufactured gas will injure
plants. Fumes from natural gas does not harm most
plants.
SOIL
If everything else is ideal and the soil is poor, plants will
not grow. If the ph is close to what a plant needs, the
plants can adapt to many different soils. The soils must
contain the raw materials and water for the plants to
manufacture the food they need. They field of
hydroponics does not use soil at all. The food is supplied
with the water.
For house plants, a good mixture is one-half garden loam,
one-fourth sharp sand, and one fourth peat. The loam
contains some humus and clay. The sand is to provide
drainage and keep the soil from packing or caking and
cracking. Peat supplies some food value and water
holding. The easiest way to get good soil is to go to a
reputable garden center. Buy soil that is labeled sterile
(most will be).
Add one-half teaspoon of a complete plant food to a six
inch pot when potting a plant. A complete plant food is
one which contains the three main growing elements.
They are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium in a 1:1:1
ratio. Many companies add trace elements. One vitamin
tablet to a gallon of water will supply all the trace
elements needed.
Every brand of plant food will say they are the best.
Forget brands and purchase by the total units of fertilizer.
If the bag says 10:10:10 and cost $1.20, this is .40 per
unit. Divide total units (30) into price (1.20). Buy the plant
food with the lowest unit cost. To paraphrase:
phosphorous is phosphorous is phosphorous.
If you buy plants from a reputable dealer, the soil mixture
they are in will supply food for awhile. When it is depleted,
buy plant food and apply according to directions. Never
apply fertilizer to a dry plant. Always make sure the soil
is moist before feeding.
POTTING
Potting will be needed for one of three reasons.
Potting newly rooted cuttings or seedlings.
Potting plants brought in from outdoors. This can
get to be a big operation in the fall.
Transferring plants from one pot to another. This is
done if you are doing root divisions or if you have
plants that are root bound.
When potting seedlings, rooted cuttings, or slips (such as
yams), use a rich soil to which fertilizer has not been
added. Strong fertilizer will injure the fresh, tender roots.
This is what a grower means when he says the fertilizer
burned the roots.
Start with a two and one-half inch pot. Prepare the pot by
placing a broken pot over the bottom hole. Place this with
the curved side up to form a dome. This is for drainage.
I can never find a broken pot when I need it. I use coarse
stone. I put the larger pieces (preferably broken) stacked
around and over the hole. Make sure one does not seal
the hole. Then I use smaller pieces to make a smooth
layer. Broken clay bricks work well also. Place a little sand
over this. Then place a layer of the potting soil. Put the
seedling in the center and gently put soil around the plant
and the roots. Fill to within one-half inch of the top. Firm
gently. Soak completely. Add soil if needed. Place in a
shady spot until the roots become established. This
usually takes one week. Then give them sunlight. Mist the
leaves the first few days.
Put plants gathered from the garden in a pot large
enough for the root ball and soil lifted with the plant. The
rest is the same as for seedlings.
When repotting from one to another, it is common
practice to go one size larger. If you go too much larger,
the plant will not do as well. Over potting usually results in
leaf yellowing and the plants do not develop. This is
because the pot holds too much water that is not used by
the plant. The excess water drives out the air.
Let the plant dry out some. Place
the hand over the soil with the main
stem of the plant between the index
a n d middle finger. I am right-
handed so I use the left hand. You
do what is comfortable. Turn the pot
upsi de- down and use the other
hand as a guide. Tap the pot sharply
o n a bench or fence post. The
p l a n t should slide out into the
hand holding the plant.
Re-pot when the plant becomes root bound. When the
roots are coming out the drain hole or when they are an
entwined mass after taking out of the pot, they are root
bound.
Prepare the pot as described earlier. If you have some,
put crushed charcoal in the bottom. This keeps the soil
sweet. Break off the top edge to round the dirt ball.
Scrape off the very top layer of dirt on the old plant.
Gently immerse the root ball in water for about a minute.
This will make sure that the roots are truly wet when
transplanted. Finish re-potting as described for seedlings.
Glazed or painted clay pots, ceramic pots or plastic pots
are attractive, but special care must be given when
watering. Since there is almost no evaporation, the
drainage must be excellent. Stir the soil surface for better
aeration.
Old pots should be soaked in a bleach water to kill fungus
and other plant diseases. Rinse thoroughly before using.
Treat like a painted pot as older pots lose their porosity.
Metal containers are pretty, but never pot directly in a
metal container. If you must have a plant in that beautiful
brass container from Aunt Mildred (The one with all the
money and no heirs), pot the plant in a clay pot. Insert the
clay pot in the brass container. Support the pot from the
bottom with two or three inches of charcoal. Be very
careful when watering.
DOUBLE POTTING - Plants in a clay pot are put into a
larger water tight container. The clay pot is supported by
two inches of peat moss and surrounded by a layer of
peat moss. Water is applied only to the peat moss. If the
peat moss is kept wet but not soaked, the clay pot and
the soil there-in will absorb the water from the peat moss.
This idea is the forerunner of the wick system mentioned
earlier.
PRUNING AND PINCHING
When a plant, or even one branch of a plant, starts to
become long and spindly, the cure is pruning or pinching
back. To many people. Pruning means cutting a woody
outdoor plant with knives, shears, etc. while pinching
back refers to pinching off new growth with the fingers.
The result is the same. The reason for either is to have
a bushy, stocky, healthy plant. When transplanting plants
in the fall, it is a good idea to cut back the top growth to a
few joints from the bottom.
If a plant does not get enough light, it tells you by
becoming spindly and growing toward the light it is
getting. Plants such as this need to be pinched back. If
practical, change the lighting conditions.
Most vines will benefit from pinching back when young.
This will result in more growth from the base and healthier
plants. Grape ivy, Pothos, wandering jew and others will
make better plants if kept trimmed.
SUMMER CARE
Many gardeners put the house plants back into the
garden during the summer. They will get added strength
if this is done.
Since outdoor gardening is not the subject of this book,
we will not cover this issue. Just remember that the sun
gets hotter as summer progresses and plant put in sunlit
windows can be severely damaged. You may want to
move them or shade them.
PROPAGATION
Plants may be propagated by seeds, leaf cuttings, stem
cuttings(slips), root divisions, portions of leaves, eyes
(potatoes), air layering, and runners.
Seed planting is the method for the majority of plants
grown. This is not always true of house plants. The seeds
should not be too old. Light is usually detrimental to
germination. One Christmas, a five year old was
explaining this. She had seen a TV program. She had
memorized all of the program. I wish more kids watched
this kid of program and less of the other kinds. The seed
should be planted to the depth called for on the seed
package. If no package is handy, try twice the thickness
of the seed. Very fine seed such as begonia or
cockscomb should not be covered. Water them in with a
fine spray. The soil should be damp - not wet.
The best results I had was using the thin, disposable,
rose boxes from a florist supply. One hundred was very
inexpensive at the time. After the seeds were planted and
watered, the box was closed and the moisture was
trapped in. I did not need to water again. The trays were
covered with black garbage bags to block light. By lifting
the bags, I could easily see the progress of the seeds. It
worked great. I used industrial mixing sand with a small
amount of fertilizer in the water. When they sprouted, the
plastic box became a miniature greenhouse.
After sowing, mist the soil with a fine spray. If you can not
get the rose boxes, cover with glass, plastic or even
paper. You want to keep the moisture on the seeds and
avoid watering again. Remove the covering after the
seeds sprout.
Most instructions say to transplant to other soil as soon as
the first two true leaves appear. I prefer to wait until four
or six appear. With the plastic box method, this works
well. When you do transplant, space one to two inches
apart. Use a soil with 60% sand and 40% potting soil. You
will need to move them again and a heavier soil will
damage the roots. You will have very good results if you
use a plastic knife from a fast food place to lift the plants.
Simply insert the knife under the small plant and lift. Place
in new soil and gently slide off the knife by using a second
knife. Pull the new soil around the plant and mist until very
moist. Place in a shady place for about three days. After
they grow several more leaves, transplant into individual
pots.
This section would not be complete if I did not mention
Jiffy Pots. This is a neat commercial product which is
great for a few seeds. The Jiffy Pot Number Seven comes
25 to the pack. Decide how many seeds you are planting.
Figure about three to the pot. They may not all sprout.
Soak the number of pots you will need. They expand
forever. They form a cavity in the top. Put seeds in cavity
with some sand (some people use soil). Place the pots in
a plastic or aluminum tray. I use styrofoam plates or the
styro trays in which food is sold. Keep pots damp by
putting water in tray - not on pots. After the seeds sprout,
wait until roots come through the Jiffy Pot. Transplant.
CUTTINGS
In colonial times, a visit among neighbors often meant a
gift of a begonia or patience plant cutting. They had their
tea and the recipient would lovingly tend the stem or leaf
until it flowered. Stem cuttings are usually rooted in sharp
and that is kept moist. Many will root and become
complete plants if inserted in a container of water.
Geraniums, wax begonias, coleus, ivy and yams (sweet
potatoes) are a few of the plants that will. A great project
for school children is the sweet potato. Buy a small yam
at the store. Put the pointed end down in a narrow
container. Fille with water until only about three-fourths of
the yam is not covered. Set in a warm, well shaded place.
It will sprout in about a week. The plants grow rapidly.
When they are about nine inches long they are what we
called slips. If you continue watering, the vines can reach
over six foot long. This is covered again in this book with
a picture.
Removing the yam and cutting into it to removes each
plant will yield plants that will grow in soil
An aside here - George Washington Carver is
remembered for the many uses he discovered for the
peanut. Not many people realize that he also found over
260 uses for the yam. He was a very smart man.
STEM CUTTINGS: Many plants from begonia to Azalea
will root and grow from stem cuttings. Begonias and softer
plants will root if you simply cut the end of a stem and
place the cut in in wet sand. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Wait about a week and check to see if roots have formed.
Gently tug on the plant. If it resist, roots have formed.
Wait another week and transplant. If it pulls out, stick it
back in the soil and wait until the roots do form.
Sections of plants such as dumbcane, ti, and dracaena
will root if laid in damp sand. Cut sections several inches
long. Make sure the have bumps or undeveloped leaf
buds. Cover about 90% of the stem with damp sand. New
plants and roots will form in several weeks. Each new
plant can be severed from the stem and planted
separately.
Plants such as Azalea work best if a fork is cut. Leave a
few leaves on the smaller limb. Dip the fresh cut bottom
end in a rooting medium. The fork is then placed in
potting soil mixed with sand. Put deep enough so that the
joint of the two limbs is covered. Keep the medium damp
until new leaves appear.
LEAF CUTTINGS - African Violets can be rooted from the
leaves. Each leaf must have at least one-half inch of leaf
stem attached. Insert the leaf stem in damp sand. Roots
will form in about four weeks. Small plantlets will start to
form at the base of the leaf. This sometimes takes as long
as two months. Cut each new plant from the starting leaf
and plant separately.
Another method is to cover a glass filled with water with
plastic wrap or wax paper. Hold the wrap or paper on with
a rubber band. Punch a hole for each leaf. Insert the leaf
stem through the hole into the water. Keep in bright light.
After the roots and plantlets form, plant and cut off the
starter leaf.
Try Snake-plant. Lay out a large leaf. Cut at two inch
intervals. Mark the former top end of each piece. Insert
the bottom end in damp sand. Each piece will form a new
plant.
A rex Begonia leaf will root if placed flat on damp sand
and soil mixture. Use 60% sand 40% potting soil. Have
the sand damp and keep out of direct sun. Use hairpins
over some small veins to hold it down. Make a few cuts at
the main vein. This is where it will root and new plants
form.
Each leaf rosette of echeveria will root if twisted from the
main stem and placed in the rooting medium.
The ice plant propagates very easily. Simply trim off the
excess and chop into very small pieces. Scatter over the
soil and cover with more soil. Keep damp and each piece
will root.
In order to avoid watering often, cover the rooting medium
with a plastic cover or use plastic trays and covers or pick
up an old aquarium at a garage sale. Cover the aquarium
with a piece of window glass. Dampen soil. Do not soak.
RUNNERS-
Flame violet, spider plant, strawberry geranium and
others put out runners. Small plantlets form at the tip of
these runners. These are easy to root. Pin them to the
soil until they develop roots. Cut the runner and pot the
new plant.
ROOT DIVISIONS - This applies to plants that are usually
called bulb plants.
TRUE BULBS - A true bulb is like a daffodil or onion. It
has a short underground stem surrounded by fleshy
leaves. This is the bulb. The fleshy leaves store the food
and protect the unseen plant.
BULBLETS - These are sometimes called offshoots. They
are formed by the lateral bud on the basal plate. Formed
from true bulbs only.
BULBILS - These are small bulbs produced in axils of
leaves (like lilies), flower clusters or on stems.
CORMS AND CORMELS - Plants such as the Gladiolus
are planted with corms and form new corms and many
cormels at root level. These cormels should be gathered
in the fall. Place in refrigerator for at least 30 days before
replanting. It will usually be two years before they will
bloom.
RHIZOMES - These are creeping underground stems as
in the Iris and Calla. Because of food storage, they are
sometimes very thick. Foliage leaves and the flower
stalks arise from buds on the top side. Roots project
below. Cut sections so that each section has a growth
bud. Pot for a new plant.
TUBEROUS RHIZOME - This is a slender underground
stem. It is basically a rhizome that is thickened at the end
into a tuber like section for storing food. The term
rootstock is often used for a tuberous rhizome. Cut the
same as for rhizome for propagating.
TUBER - The short enlarged stem is for food storage. It
may be flattened (tuberous begonia), rounded (potato) or
irregular (ranunculus). Tubers do not creep like a
rhizome. Tubers have growth buds called eyes. Divide
into sections having at least one eye. Let pieces dry until
a scab forms then pot.
TUBEROUS ROOTS - Yams are an example. These are
real roots (not stems) with thickened food storage
structures. They have no growth buds in the tuber.
Growth buds are at one end as part of the old stem base.
Can be divided as long as each piece has a growth bud.
Other examples are Dahlias and the Gloriosa Lily.
AIR LAYERING - This is a great way to multiply woody
plants. Cut a downward slice through the bark and into
the stem. Hold the cut open with a toothpick. Wrap with
well dampened sphagnum moss. Wrap with a clear
plastic. Tie the plastic tightly above and below the moss.
When healthy roots have protruded through the moss, cut
off stem below the moss. Remove plastic and most of the
moss. Replant.
PESTS
Damping-off fungus attacks seedlings, but if proper care
is taken, it will not be a problem in the home. The biggest
factor is to have sterilized starting medium. Next - Do not
over water.
Due to the dry conditions in the average house, stem rot
and leaf spots do not secure a foothold. Should any of the
foregoing be a problem, talk to your local plant supplier.
He will have the very latest fungicide to cure the problem.
Insects cause more trouble with house plants. Insects fall
into chewing and sucking insects.
CHEWING INSECTS bite out parts of plants. When this
occurs, sprays or dusts are available to easily eradicate
them.
SUCKING INSECTS are a large and varied group. You
have aphids, mites, red spiders, white fly, mealy bugs and
scales as a sample. No one treatment will control all of
them. Malathion will control most of them. See the local
nursery and ask if something better is available and
hopefully it is also environmentally friendly.
The aphid is a small green or brown insect. Powered
tobacco dust is sometimes used for control. Whatever
you use, it must get on the aphid. Several application will
ne necessary.
Mite damage causes the curling of leaves and curling of
buds.
Red Spider feed on the underside of leaves. This
produces a speckled appearance on the leaves. Both
insects will eventually kill the plant. Whatever spray you
buy, verify that it is safe for the home. One pest control
expert in this area sprayed cotton poison in a childrens
nursery. The children are still being monitored and the
building was ordered torn down.
WHITE FLY is a serious pest. It flies on approach so it is
difficult to spray. It attacks many plants but especially
salvia, cineraria. Ageratum, fuchsia, and some
geraniums.
MEALY BUGS are soft, slow moving insects. They are
found on ferns, crotons, coleus and many other plants.
The bugs cluster around the joints of stems and leaves.
They have fuzzy covered bodies and most sprays do not
work. They can be removed with a soft paint brush dipped
in a nicotine solution. Your nursery may have some new
sprays.
SCALE insects look like very small brown spots. They
attack fern, palms and crotons. Do not confuse SCALE
with the brown spore cases on ferns. You can try scraping
them off. Then go buy the best spray available.
EARTHWORMS will not be a problem if you use sterile
soil from the start. Their burrowing creates air pockets
which dry the roots. Kill them, root lice and maggots with
Chlordane dust.
FLOWERING PLANTS
Begonias are attractive plants. Some have beautiful
foliage and almost no flowers. Others have beauty in
both. Peat or humus soil seems to work best. The
temperature can be cool with no direct sunlight required
for most varieties. The heavier foliage varieties do better
with reduced light.
The normal propagation method is by stem or leaf
cuttings. Wax Begonias use seed. Few insects or
diseases bother these hardy plants.
AFRICAN VIOLET is a native of tropical Africa. It thrives
best at a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. About the
same as most American homes. It requires little light so
it does well in most apartments. If not over watered, it will
bloom for a long time.
Proper watering is the key to success. The original home
for the plants was under giant trees in a tropical damp
area. Keep this in mind. Keep the soil moist - not soaked.
Do not wet the leaves. Cool water will spot the leaves.
Never wet the crown.
Direct sunlight will injure the plant. An East or North
window is best. West and South windows may be used
with proper shading.
Skip the saucer watering system. Skip glazed pots unless
you are very careful not to over water. With African
Violets, it is how much water as well as how you water
that makes the difference.
A good soil is mandatory for success. A good mixture is
equal parts of organic matter (peat or leaf mold) and soil.
Add sand if the soil has much clay. Two parts sand to
eight parts clay soil. Mix one teaspoon of a 10-10-10
fertilizer to one-half gallon of potting mix. Do not repot a
mature plant more than once a year.
African Violets propagate by leaf cuttings. See the section
on cuttings. TIP: Large leaves with long stems can be
used more than once to start plants. When the first plants
take hold, cut the stem and start again.
Some problems:
Flower buds forming, but flowers dropping off - Probably
carbon monoxide from a faulty heater or stove. Check -
especially if anyone has had headaches.
Plant leaves wilting and dying - due to over watering.
White cottony masses on the leaves - Mealy bug
infestation. Remove with alcohol on a cotton swab or a
small, soft brush.
Leaves small and curled, flowers absent or distorted. -
Mite infestation. These things are almost microscopic.
See a different nursery for a possible cure. I do not know
of any. Do not purchase plants from that dealer again.
Leaf stems too long. It may be the variety. Probably the
plant does not get enough light.
Failure to flower:
Plants not getting enough light.
Too many leaves in center of plant. Remove a few.
Over watering - This is usually the trouble. These
plants are finicky about water.
Temperature too high, above 75 or too low, below
60.
FLOWERING PLANTS
AMARYLLIS is a bulbous plant. It is very easy to grow.
Start bulbs in Spring. The flowers will appear first. After
the flowers have died, set the plants outside if possible. If
it is possible to put the pots into the ground, leave them
there until December. If the foliage is cut too soon, the
plant may not store enough food to make flowers the
following year.
POCKETBOOK FLOWER - A very pretty flower, but it is
much too much trouble for easy success. Skip the difficult
ones, if you wish to have fun with the plants.
CALLA LILY (Zantedeschia) - After flowering, starting in
summer, with hold all water. Let the bulbs dry completely.
Start into growth in the Fall.
CINERARIA - is a house plant favorite, but a pain. The
plants need much light, but will wilt under direct sunlight.
The soil must remain moist but not wet. Rooms must be
cool, below 60, for proper flowering. Skip this one.
CHRYSANTHEMUM - There are many nice varieties. The
very large blossomed plants with longer stems are valued
for All Saints Day. I worked at a wholesale florist that sold
over 180,000 blooms on All Saints Day. This plant can be
made to bloom at any time by controlling the amount of
light it gets. Some varieties may be grown outdoors as
perennials in milder climates.
CYCLAMEN - Let the nurseries grow this one. If you want
it for a house plant, buy it. It requires a cold room. It
needs 50 at night and 60-65 in the day. This kind of air
conditioning in the summer will cost a fortune. The foliage
will yellow and the flowers will be very small if the
temperature is too high. Most insects like the plant. Too
much trouble.
FUCHSIA is an old favorite but does not work
everywhere. It requires a cool (65) room, full sunshine
and moderate water. A winter resting period benefits the
plant. Let the soil dry gradually. Place the plant in a cool
dark room, shed or basement for two or three months.
Repot and restart growth. Multiply by cuttings.
GERANIUM is a favorite plant. It requires a sunny
location. Without the light, it will flower very little and
become spindly. Start cuttings in early spring. Grow
outdoors, in the garden, or a well lighted window. Repot
in a small pot in the fall. This restricts root action and
produces stocky plants with many flowers.
GERANIUMS need regular applications of plant food.
They need plenty of water, but do not keep the soil soggy.
Leaf spots will develop if the soil stays too wet. This is
usually not a problem in the dry atmosphere of the home.
Insects will attack the plant, but this is not a serious
problem.
HYDRANGEA - Buy it. Enjoy it. When the flowers quit,
give it to a gardener. It is very pretty and if you give it lots
of air, light and moisture it will grow for a good while. In
order to carry the plant over to another year, they must
have at least 30 days below 60 degrees and six to eight
weeks of dark storage without leaves. Dont grow it. Buy
it.
KALANCHOE (Tom Thumb) is a succulent. It grows well
in the home. It is a compact plant with a profusion of
orange-red flowers. It will thrive in a warm, dry
atmosphere. Normal blooming time is January.
POINSETTIA is a native of Hawaii. The bright red is not
the flower. It is a bract that will turn red when the light is
restricted. It grows as a shrub in its native habitat. Buy it
and enjoy it at Christmas. It is very difficult to grow in the
home because of the sensitivity to light. I have grown it
outdoors, but the bracts failed to turn red. It is best to buy,
enjoy and discard.
UPRIGHT FOLIAGE PLANTS
BOSTON FERN is a very popular house plant. Many
varieties are available. Ferns need a normally warm
room. They prefer the same temperature as humans
(about 65-70). Grow in the right size pot and avoid over
watering. Keep them from direct sunlight and do not place
near heaters or hot air vents. Follow those hints and they
are easy to grow.
Feed regularly with a good plant food and repot once a
year. When you repot, use a soil with about half leaf mold
or peat. Propagate by potting of the runners. Scale
insects will attack ferns. Trim off and destroy the older
fronds. These are the ones which will have the most
insects such as scale and mealy bugs. Washing with
tobacco tea and sop will control the pest. Check with a
nursery center to see if new, safe sprays are available.
TABLE FERNS such as Aspidium, Hollyfern, Pteris and
others make good house plants. Do not try growing in
brass, plastic, painted or glazed pots. Grow in real clay
pots only. Over watering and insufficient light are the two
biggest problems.
COLEUS is a nice house plant that is not as demanding
as some. It does well in full sunlight or some shade. It
needs a warm moist atmosphere. Watch for mealy bugs
and fungus. Keep the plant pinched back to produce
bushiness. New plants are produced by cuttings, so use
the material you pinch from the plant.
DRACAENA is similar to Pandanus in appearance and
requirements. They can be reproduced by sections of the
main stem.
PANDANUS is a very hardy house plant. Watch for over
watering (especially during winter).The sword-like green
or variegated foliage makes it attractive for a point of
interest. Avoid pots that are too large. This leads to over
watering. Offsets which form at the base may be removed
and repotted for new plants.
PALMS - There are a myriad number of palms. The kinds
for house plants are few. Kentia and Date are the two
best for homes. Both are easily cared for. Do not put in
direct sunlight or over pot. Repot no more than once a
year. Every two years is a better time frame. Warm moist
atmosphere is preferred by both kinds. Feed with a
commercial plant food every four weeks. Watch for scale.
RUBBER PLANT - This plant will do well under a wide
range of growing conditions. Do not over water. It
can withstand warmer temperatures, but prefers
about 70 degrees. It should have a slightly humid
atmosphere but can grow under very dry conditions.
The plant does better when partly root bound. Do not
transplant too often. It is propagated by cuttings or air
layering. The usual pest are scale and mealy bugs.
These can be eradicated by washing with a tobacco-
soap solution. If the leaves start turning yellow, you
have over watered.
SANSEVIERIA (Snake Plant) is an easy plant to
grow. It is almost care-free. The leathery leaves stop
most insect attacks. It requires low light and very
moderate water. The plants are easily propagated by
leaf cutting or suckers which may be potted (See
Propagation Section).
FOLIAGE PLANTS - VINES
YAMS - MY FAVORITE - I do not
know of anything easier to grow.
Get a yam (sweet potato) and put
the pointed in down in a narrow
container of water. Keep at room
temperature and it will sprout
vines. Move to an area of normal
light. It will tolerate low light, but
the vines will not be as bushy.
Note the mass of roots in the photo. After the vines
are about three feet, add a few drops of dilute plant
food to the water once a week. After the vines are
one foot long, let the water level drop until some roots
are out of water before replenishing water. The water
container may be placed inside a more decorative
container. It should last about a year.
ENGLISH IVY does well in the home. This is the
reason it is popular. It requires moderate light and
water. The plant is capable of extremely rapid growth
under ideal conditions. Scale and aphids are the main
insect problem. The variegated varieties are not as
adaptable.
GERMAN IVY (Senecio) is favored for its pale green
foliage. It does well in low light, cool area and
moderate water. It is not as tough as English Ivy but
produces a more luxuriant growth.
GRAPE IVY (Cissus Rhombifolia) - Grape Ivy grows
upright until long enough to start trailing. The new
growth is light green in contrast to the dark green of
the older stems and vines. To have a bushy plant,
pinch back often. It requires moderate light and
moisture. Mealy bugs are the main insect problem.
They are easily killed. It propagates from cuttings or
slips.
POTHOS AUREUS (Devils Ivy) and its varieties are
favorites for the home. When used in small
containers, they provide just the right green touch to
a room. These plants thrive in the normal heat of a
home and are long lasting. Grow in a light soil. They
do best in a shaded part of a room. The heart-shaped
philodendron, Cordatum, is popular for the same
reasons.
Large leafed philodendrons are used in large rooms,
usually running up a sphagnum moss pole. Have
proper drainage and do not over water.
WANDERING JEW (the purple varieties) is one I
really like. They will grow anywhere. I have had
luxurious beds of one variety that took the full brunt of
the afternoon sun. Others, I have grown in very poor
light in hanging baskets. I like it as it tolerates my
forgetting to water it. Propagation is by rooting of
stems in moist soil or water. It will even grow in water.
CACTI AND SUCCULENTS
This subject deserves a book by itself. There is a
quote in one of the out of print books that says,all
cacti are succulents, but succulents are not all cacti.
I am sure this is a very old saying. Succulents are
juicy plants having very fleshy stems or leaves.
These are used for storing water which enables the
plant to withstand long, hot, and dry periods. Normally
succulents grown in the home will need more water
than cacti. Let the soil become dry before watering
again. A well drained, porous soil is a must.
Cacti are more dry and thorny with spikes or hairs.
From the Giant Saguaro which weighs tons and may
be 50 feet high to the Button Cactus that is so small
it is very hard to find, there are thousands of cacti.
Some are narcotic. Some have ferocious spines and
others are leathery. Some have beautiful flowers
while others rarely bloom.
Years ago, in the forties, an old mountain man
showed my mother how to make jelly out of cactus
flowers. He made booze.
Succulents are great for the home planting. Some
types are found in every state except northern New
England. Grow a small dish of Aloe if you grow none
other. This is still the very best thing for a burn. The
juice from a fresh crushed leaf will stop a burn from
blistering. Every kitchen should have one plant in the
window. Agave (Century Plant), Aloe, Crassula,
Echeveria, Euphorbia, Kalanchoe, and Sedum are
the more common succulents.
There are so many easy to grow cacti, I shall not list
the best ones. Go to a good nursery and pick out one
you like. Almost all cacti will grow well in a porous,
sandy soil. Water sparingly.
BULB AND BULB-LIKE PLANTS
Bulbs, Bulblets, Corms, Rhizomes and Tubers
Growing bulbous plants in the home is very easy if
you start with good bulbs, and sterile soil. and follow
the recommendations for the one chosen. The bulbs
and tubers are clean and pleasant to handle. After
potting, the containers may be stored out of sight until
the bulbs have produced roots. You may want to wait
until the flower stalk is growing. After flowering, they
may be removed and fresh bulbs brought in. If you
select with care, you can have flowering plants
throughout the year.
Some bulbs can be grown permanently in containers.
They will flower year after year with little care. An
occasional repotting or adding fresh soil to the top is
all that is needed. This group is represented by
achimenes, amaryllis, agapanthus, caladium, calla,
some cannas, clivia, crinum, and haemanthus.
Crocus, daffodils, Dutch Iris, freesias, hyacinths,
scillas, and tulips are usually grown for one season
and then discarded or transferred to the garden. (If
you discard, please do so properly. Louisiana spends
a fortune each year to keep waterways clear. These
waterways are choked by water hyacinths and other
plants that were thrown out.
Soil, bulb fiber, vermiculite, pebbles and water or
plain water are the growing mediums for bulbs.
Hyacinths and the sweet potato - a tuber are two
examples of growing in plain water.
PEBBLES AND WATER SYSTEM - Cut clear plastic
tubing or soda straw if no tubing is available to the
depth of the dish. Tape to the side. This will be part of
your water gauge. Break up charcoal into small
pieces and cover the bottom of a container to about
one inch. Put washed, small, smooth stones over this
for a depth of another two inches. Crushed granite
can cut the bulbs. Place the bulbs on these stones.
Finish filling the container with small stones.
Pour water until it is
one-eight inch above
the base of the bulb.
Here is where you
use the gauge. If
using a soda straw,
You will need to
carefully insert a wire
or broom straw into the soda straw and remove it to
see the depth of the water. If you use a larger plastic
tube, you can cut and mark a strip of styrofoam. As
water is poured, it will float. Quit pouring when the
mark appears.
Paper White Narcissus and Chinese Sacred Lilly
both grow well with this system.
BULB FIBER OR VERMICULITE - Bulb fiber is a
commercial product containing charcoal, coarse,
fibrous peat moss and crushed shell. Before using,
soak thoroughly. Squeeze ou the excess water. Fill
the bowl within one inch of top. Press down, but do
not compact or the bulb roots will not be able to push
through. Form a depression and place bulbs so that
they support each other. Do the same for vermiculite.
Roman hyacinths and early trumpet daffodils are
good bulbs for these mediums.
GROWING IN WATER - Yams have already been
covered. Treat other tubers like yams the same.
Hyacinths are sometimes grown in special forcing
glasses. I think it is more trouble than it is worth. You
can place the hyacinth bulbs on a layer of coarse
gravel. Put water until it touches the base of bulb.
Put container in a cool dark place and check the
water level often. Rooting may take as long as 10
weeks. Usually the bulbs will root in six weeks. When
a mass of roots have formed and the tips are pushing
upward, place in a cool, lighted room.
Do not place them in direct sunlight as the hot sun
can burn the exposed roots. Keep the water level
even with the base of the bulb.
GROWING IN SOIL - Most container bulbs are grown
in a soil mixture of loam, sand, and organic matter
(peat, leaf mold, or bark) in equal mixtures. This gives
the loose mixture that bulbs need.
Use clean pots. Older, uncleaned pots may harbor
fungus, parasites and bacteria. Boil the clay pots or
soak in bleach water overnight and rinse. Do not re-
use older plastic pots. Set up the drainage with
broken pots or broken charcoal as describe earlier for
other plants.
Place bulbs so that they are almost touching. Put tips
of larger bulbs even with the top of the soil. (Or where
the soil will be.) Plant the smaller bulbs slightly below
the surface. You will probably notice that other books
say plant to a depth of three times the diameter of the
bulb. This is correct for garden planting. We are
talking about container planting. Leave about an inch
below the rim of the container for watering. Soak
thoroughly and place in a dark cool place to wait for
rooting.
After about eight weeks, start lifting the pots and look
for root growth through the drain hole. The top growth
may be showing as a white or pale yellow from lack of
light. Remove those that are rooted to a well lit room.
The shoots will soon turn green. Keep the plants
evenly moist during the blooming and growing period.
Do not place in sunlight until the plants have adjusted
to the room light.
Try some of the miniature varieties of bulbs. You will
like them. If you find a miniature gladiola that is a
deep rich purple, please send me a bulb. I had many
of them. When I moved, I forgot to dig them up and
the new owner hired someone to mow. They kept
them mowed down until they died.
THIRTEEN RULES
1. To be successful, pick a plant that is
easy to grow, that fits the atmosphere
in your home and that fits your life-
style.
2. Let soil dry, then water thoroughly.
3. Use a good potting soil of the mix
specified for the particular plant.
4. Use containers with drains or be very,
very careful not to over water.
5. Use charcoal for plants grown in water
to keep water clear. It is a good soil
conditioner also.
6. Fertilize sparing -Too much is harmful.
7. Humidify most plants. Dry air is usually
harmful.
8. Shade plants as needed. Most will not
tolerate full sun.
9. At the first sign of disease, insects,
scale, etc. see your garden center for
the correct insecticide.
10. When using insecticide, Follow
directions EXACTLY.
11. For bushy plants, trim or pinch back.
12. Do not use a pot that is too large.
13. Deal with a good garden center. or
nursery. Find one with knowledgeable
employees who sells quality plants. Quality
is less expensive in the long run.
If small children will be around, check for plant
danger. Some are poisonous and some (like Dumb
Cane) contain Calcium Oxalate crystals that can
harm the mouth. In rare instances death has
resulted.
Look at the following table. It should help you decide
which plant you wish to grow. It will give the watering
and lighting requirements for many of the plants.
#
4
7
,907 %
African
Marigold
Orange or
Yellow
Flowers
Frequent Sun
African Violet Purple, Blue,
White, Pink
Frequent Shade
Ageratum Blue fl. Frequent Sun
Air Pine White fl. Infrequent Partial Shade
Aloe (Aloe
aborescens)
Green Seldom Sun
Aloe Noblis Green Seldom Sun (or
shade)
Aluminum
Plant
Silver
marked
often shade
Amaryllis Many colors
fl.
Often sun
Amoena
Diffenbachia
Green, white
bands
Often Partial shade
Aphelandra Yellow fl. Often partial shade
Aralia Green often shade
Artillery Plant Green often partial shade
Aspidium Green seldom partial shade
Auritum Green often shade
Azalea (acid
soil)
Many color fl. often sun
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Baby Tears Green seldom shade
Begonia many often sun to partial
shade
Betel Nut Palm Green often shade
Birds Nest
Fern
Green often shade
Birds Nest
Sansevieria
Green
w/bands
seldom shade
Blushing
Philodendron
Reddish
Green
often shade
Boston Fern Green often shade
Boxwood
(Buxus
sempervirens)
Green or
Variegated
often sun
Boxwood White fl. often partial shade
Browalia Blue fl. often sun
Cacti Flowers vary
and plants
vary
seldom sun
Caladium Variegated often partial shade
Calla Lilly White,
Yellow fl.
often sun
Camellia Many color fl. often sun
Canna Many color fl. often sun
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Carnation Many color fl. often sun
Cast Iron Plant Green or
Variegated
seldom shade
Century Plant Chartreuse seldom sun
Cheese Cake
Plant
Green often shade
Chinese
Evergreen
Green often shade
Christmas
Cactus
Pink or Red
fl.
often sun
Chrysanthemu
m
Yellow,
White,
Orange, Red
fl.
often sun
Cigar Plant Orange fl. often sun
Cineraria Many Color
fl.
often sun
Climbing Fig Green often sun
Coleus Many Colors often sun
Crocus White,
Yellow, Blue
fl.
often sun
Croton Variegated often (except
winter)
sun
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Crown of
Thorns
Pink fl. seldom sun
Cupids Bower Blue, Pink,
White fl.
often shade
Cyclamen Pink, Red,
White fl.
often sun
Daffodil Yellow fl. often sun
Date Palm Green seldom partial shade
Devils Ivy Green and
Yellow
often shade
Devils Tongue Red fl. often partial shade
Dish Fern Green seldom shade
Dracaena Red, Green often shade
Dubia Green often shade
Dumb Cane Green and
White
often shade
Easter Lilly White often sun
English Ivy Green often tolerates most
conditions
Exacum Blue fl. often sun
Ferns See variety
Fiddle Leaf Green often shade
Flame Violet Scarlet fl. often partial shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Flowering
Maple
Orange fl. often sun
Flowering
Shamrock
Pink, yellow,
white f.
often sun
French
Marigold
Orange,
Yellow fl.
often sun
Fuchsia Purple, red fl. often sun
Gardenia White fl. often sun
Geranium Pink, Red,
White fl.
often sun
Geranium Ivy Green often shade
German Ivy Green often indifferent
Glacier Ivy Green, White often shade
Gloxinia Purple, Red,
White fl.
often shade
Goldband Lilly White,
Yellow fl.
often sun
Gold Dust Ivy Yellow,
Green
often shade
Gold Stripe
Sansevieria
Green with
White edge
seldom partial shade
Grape
Hyacinth
Blue fl. often sun
Grape Ivy Green often partial shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Green
Peperomia
Green often shade
Hahns Devils
Tongue
Green and
White
often shade
Hastatum Green often shade
Hedgehog
Aloe
Green seldom sun
Heliotrope Purple fl. often sun
Henrys Lilly Yellow fl. often sun
Hens and
Chickens
Green Seldom sun
Holly Fern Green often shade
Hyacinth White, Blue,
Pink fl.
often sun
Hydrangea Blue, White,
Pink fl.
often sun
Jade Plant Green seldom sun
Japanese
Laurel
Green seldom sun
Japanese Lilly Pink, White,
fl.
often sun
Jerusalem
Cherry
Red Berry often sun
Joshua Tree Green seldom sun
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Kafir Lilly Orange-red
fl.
often sun
Tom Thumb Red fl. often sun
Kentia Palm Green often except
winter
shade
Lace Fern Green often shade
Lantana Orange fl. often sun
Madonna Lilly White fl. often sun
Maple Leaf
Plant
Green often partial shade
Marble Queen White, Green often shade
Martha
Washington
Geranium
Pink, White,
Red
often sun
Massange
Dracaena
Green and
White
often shade
Miniature Tree
Palm
Green often shade
Monkey Puzzle
Tree
Reddish-
Green
often partial shade
Nephthytis Green often shade
Norfolk Island
Pine
Green often partial shade
Panduriforme Green often shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Periwinkle Pink and
White fl.
often sun
Petunia Many colors
of fl.
often sun
Philodendron Green often shade
Piggyback
Plant
Green often sun
Pigmy Date Green often partial shade
Pin Oak Ivy Green often shade
Pocketbook
Plant
Yellow, Red,
Pink fl.
often sun
Podocarpus Green often shade
Poinsettia Red, White,
Pink fl.
(bracts)
often sun
Poor Mans
Orchid
Many Color
fl.
often Partial shade
Prayer Plant
Maranta
bicolor
Yellow and
White fl.
seldom shade
Prayer Plant
(maranta
leuconeura)
Green and
Brown
seldom shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Primrose
(primula
malacoides)
Pink and
White fl.
often sun
Primrose,
Hardy (primula
polyantha)
many color fl. often sun
Rat Tail
Crassula
Green seldom sun
Red or Velvet
Philodendron
Red often shade
Red Rubber
Plant
Red, Green often
(carefully)
shade
Regal Lilly White fl. often sun
Rex Begonia Variegated,
bright
often shade
Ripple Ivy Green often shade
Rose Many colors
fl.
often (needs
much water
and porous
soil
sun
Rubber Plant Green when needed
little in winter
shade
St. Bernards
Lilly
White fl. often partial shade
Sanders
Dracaena
Green and
White stripe
often shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Scheffiera Green often shade
Screwpine
(Pandanus
veitchi)
Green and
White
often except
winter
shade
Self Branching
Ivy (Hedera
Hahnii)
Green often shade
Selloum Green often shade
Shrimp Plant Pink fl. often sun
Small Leaf
Euonymus
Green often shade
Snake Plant Green
Speckled
White
seldom partial shade
Snapdragon Many colors
fl.
often sun
Spear Flower Green often partial shade
Spindle Tree Green and
White
often sun
Split Leaf Green often shade
Spotted
Evergreen
White and
Green
often shade
Spotted Leaf
Dracaena
Green with
Yellow Spots
seldom shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Strawberry
Geraniums
Green and
White fl.
often partial shade
Succulents-
See individual
kind
Tailflower Red, White,
Pink fl.
often partial shade
Ti Plant Green, Red often partial shade
Tiger Aloe variegated seldom sun
Tiger Lilly Orange fl. often sun
Trailing
Selaginella
Green seldom partial shade
Tri Leaf Green often shade
Tri Leaf
Wonder
Green, white often partial shade
Tuberous
Begonia
Brilliant fl.,
Many colors
often partial shade
Tulips Many color fl. often sun
Umbrella Plant
(Cyperus)
Green when needed sun
Variegated
Evergreen
Light Green
streaks
often shade
Variegated Ivy Green and
White
often shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
Variegated
Nephthytis
Green and
White
often shade
Variegated
Peperomia
Green and
White
often shade
Variegated
Philodendron
Green and
Yellow
often shade
Variegated
Rubber Plant
Green and
White
when needed
(less in
winter)
shade
Verbena Many colors
fl.
often sun
Vinca Vine Green and
White
often sun
Wandering
Jew
Green and
Red, one
variety
Purple
often shade to
direct sun
Wart Plant Variegated seldom sun
Watermelon
Begonia
Green and
White
often shade
Wax Plant White fl. seldom partial shade
Wax Begonia White, Pink,
Red fl.
often sun
Wendlandi Green often shade
NAME COLOR
OF Fol.
Or Fl.
Water LGHT
White Leaf
Fittonia
Green, White
veins
seldom shade
Xembi Green often shade
Zinnia Many Color
fl.
often sun

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