Mediterranean Europe 8 Portugal

Lonely Planet Publications
618
619
Portugal is a quieter, calmer place than its exuberant neighbour, Spain. But its far from
dull. Thanks to the countrys relative geographic isolation, Portugal has retained a strong
and fascinating sense of identity and culture. In rural areas you still see women carrying
shopping on their heads and, despite the increase in tourism, there are relatively few Tinseltown-style attractions or large hotel chains. More importantly, the coffee is still the best in
Europe and its not served in Styrofoam with cinnamon on top. The economic base is very
traditional as well, based largely on fishing, wine and textiles. The flipside is that, although
EU funding has vastly improved the infrastructure, Portugal is still a relatively poor country.
At least Portugals brand new president is good at arithmetic; ex-economist Cavaco Silva
has vowed to work with Prime Minister Scrates in making sweeping social, economic and
educational reforms. Gulp. Lets hope he leaves the architecture and landscape well alone;
this country is pure holiday-brochure clich, with ancient stone villages, proud historic cities, and coastal resorts that still look more like seafaring towns than Glitzville-by-the-sea.
Portugal is a bargain for travellers as well. You will find your euro goes a lot further here
than elsewhere in Mediterranean Europe.
FAST FACTS
Area 92,389 sq km
Capital Lisbon
Currency euro ();A$1 = 0.60; 100 = 0.67;
NZ$1 = 0.50; UK1 = 1.48; US$1 = 0.78
Famous for fado(songs), football, port,
azulejos (tiles), salted cod
Official language Portuguese
Phrases bom dia (hello), obrigado/a (thank
you), desculpe (excuse me), adeus (goodbye),
faz favor (please)
Population 10.4 million
Telephone codes international access code
%00; country code %34; reverse-charge
code %120
PORTUGAL
Portugal
Viana do Castelo
Guimares
1L bottled water 0.45

Beer 1
Souvenir T-shirt 6-10
Sandwich 1.75
ATLANTIC
A3-IP1
OCEAN
- OS
- M ON TES
Parque Natural do
Douro Internacional
Amarante
A4
Peso da
Rgua
DOU R O
Miranda
do Douro
Mirandela
Vila Real
Porto
SPAIN
Pocinho
River
ro Lamego
Dou
La Fregenada
B E IR
A
A1-IP1-E01
Vilar Formoso
Pampilhosa
Parque
a Natural
a d a da Serra
rr re l da Estrela
Conimbriga
Lous
Leiria
Batalha Ftima
Nazar
Alcobaa
Ericeira
Mafra
Parque Natural
Sintra
de Sintra-Cascais
Queluz
Cascais
Estoril
Monsanto
Parque Natural do
Tejo Internacional
Tomar
Rio Tejo
Cceres
Tagus Rive
UR
A1-IP1-E80
Castelo de Vide
Marvo
Parque Natural
da Serra de
So Mamede
Portalegre
Santarm
O
EJ
EJ
T
R IB A
Vila Franca
de Xira
AL
LISBON
LE
Badajoz
Estremoz
TO
E90
Vila Viosa
Arraiolos
A6-IP7-E90
A2
vora
Setbal
Monsaraz
Reguengos
de Monsaraz
Parque
Natural da
Arrbida Reserva
Natural
do Esturio
do Sado
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
A8
IX
Ciudad Rodrigo
Castelo Branco
AD
bidos
IR
BA
Entroncamento
Parque Natural das Serras

de Aire e Candeeiros
Peniche
Guarda
E80
Gouveia
Manteigas
Penhas da Sade
Covilh
Torre
(1993m)
Seia
Buaco
Forest
Coimbra
Figueira da Foz
AL
TA
Viseu
Aveiro
Luso
In the 8th century the Moors conquered

Portugal. Arabic words filtered into the language and, today, their influence is evident
in the culture, architecture and dark features
of the people, particularly in the Algarve
where the Moors established their capital
in Silves. After the Christian conquest, new
trade routes were discovered in the 15th
century, creating an empire that extended
to four continents and launched Lisbon as
the wealthiest city in Europe. Portugals
Gothic-style Manueline architecture dates
from this time. This period of opulence was
short-lived; in 1580 Spain occupied the Portuguese throne for 90 years, and their imperial momentum was lost forever.
In 1755 a massive earthquake tragically
destroyed most of Lisbon, followed around
50 years later by Napoleons thwarted invasion, which further weakened the country.
A period of civil war and political mayhem
ensued, culminating in the abolition of the
monarchy in 1910 and the founding of a
democratic republic.
A 1926 military coup set the stage for the
dictatorship of Antnio de Oliveira Salazar
until his death in 1970. Discontent with his
regime and a ruinous war in Africa led to a
peaceful military coup on 25 April 1974.
The subsequent granting of independence to Portugals African colonies produced a flood of nearly a million refugees
into the country. Their influence is reflected
in the music and food, especially in Lisbon
and Porto.
TR
Parque
Natural
do Alvo
1L unleaded petrol 1.27
Chaves
S
Es e
t
LONELY PLANET INDEX
Montalegre
Caldas do
de Lima
Gers
Braga
Barcelos
Parque Natural
de Montesinho
Bragana
E82
Verin
I
a N H
O
Lim Ponte
Portugal has had a bouncy history of occupation and strife, stretching back to 700
BC when the Celts arrived on the Iberian
Peninsula, followed by the Phoenicians,
Greeks, Romans and Visigoths.
Budget hotel room 35
HISTORY
Custard tart 0.70
Arcos de
er
Valdevez Riv
Portugal has a sunny warm climate with mild

winters. The midsummer heat can be sizzling
in the Algarve, the Alentejo and in the upper
Douro Valley, but tolerable elsewhere. The
north is cold and wet in winter with snowfalls common in the Serra da Estrela. Avoid
the Algarves packed beach resorts in July
and August. You can often save up to 50%
for accommodation out of season (prices in
this chapter are for peak season). See Climate
Charts (p863) for more information.
Herald Tribune newspaper 2.50
100 km
60 miles
Parque Nacional
da Peneda-Gers
Valena do Minho
TO
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
Underground parking 1 per hour
LI
One week Devote three days to Lisbon, including a night of fado (songs) in the Alfama and a trip to Belm. Then sidestep
for a day in sumptuous Sintra. Carry on
to Porto for two days, enjoying the tipple
at the port lodges across the river. Wind
up your week with a day in bidos, so
pretty it was a royal wedding gift.
Two weeks The same as for one week, plus
two days in Unesco-listed vora followed
by a day in magical hilltop Monsaraz.
Next, hit the road south to the Algarve
(including a day each in Tavira, Lagos
and Silves).
Short black coffee 0.60
0
0
PORTUGAL
EM
ITINERARIES
HOW MUCH?
P O R T U G A L 621
B EIRA
Stroll around elegant and evocative Sintra

(p634), the traditional summer resort of
Portuguese kings, studded with fabulous
palaces, villas and gardens.
Step into a medieval film set and explore
the tangle of narrow alleys and steep
streets of Lisbons Alfama district (p627).
Don your colour-coordinated lycra wetsuit and pick up the pace by windsurfing
(p656) in the rugged southwestern tip of
the country.
Browse through the Moorish-inspired
backstreets of Coimbra (p645) university
town, ducking into a tasca (small neighbourhood tavern) for a beer and studentpriced snack.
Conquer the trails of the wild and beautiful Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gers (p654).
www.lonelyplanet.com
ES TR
HIGHLIGHTS
IP2
IP8
Sines
Beja
A2-IP1-EO1
BA
IX
Parque Natural do
Sudoeste Alentejano
e Costa Vicentina
Serpa
A LE
See The Algarve Map
IC1
Monchique A
Silves
Lagos
Sagres
LGA RV E
N125
Albufeira
NTEJ O
Parque
Natural
do Vale do
Guadiana
Vila Real de
Santo Antnio
A22-IP1-EO1
Faro
Tavira
SPAIN
Seville
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
620 P O R T U G A L H i g h l i g h t s
Flush with new funds, Portugals entry

into the EU in 1986 resulted in radical
economic reforms and unprecedented economic growth. However, this opulence was
short-lived and the early 1990s saw crippling corruption charges, rising inflation
and a faltering economy recession.
Expo 98 gave the country a boost, and
triggered vast transport and communications projects. This was further advanced by
Portos status as European Capital of Culture
in 2001, followed in 2004 by Portugal hosting the Euro 2004 football championships.
The latter resulted in a vast injection of funds
into the countrys infrastructure. Unfortunately, this economic surge was brief and
2005 saw an external deficit of between 7%
and 10% and a GDP around three-quarters
the EU average. Hopefully right-wing president Cavaco Silva, elected in January 2006,
can assist the socialist government in turning the situation around. The fact he is a
former economist may just help.
Meanwhile, 2005 saw the worst drought
in living memory, devastating agriculture
and slashing the sectors financial projections by 35%. It was a critical year for bushfires as well, with 200,000 hectares (about
494,000 acres) burned, mainly in the central
Coimbra region and surrounds.
The late Amlia Rodrigues was the Edith

Piaf of Portuguese fado. Today it is Mariza
who has captured the publics imagination with her extraordinary voice and fresh
contemporary image. Awarded 2004 Portuguese Personality of the Year, her 2005
release Transparente was a big worldwide
seller. Lisbons Alfama district has plenty
of fado houses (p627), ranging from the
grandiose and tourist-conscious to small
family affairs.
PEOPLE
The Land
Portugals population of 10.4 million excludes the estimated three million Portuguese living abroad, but includes the
considerable number of African and Brazilian immigrants. Since May 2004 there has
also been an influx of new immigrants from
central and Eastern Europe. Foreign residents number approximately 225,000, and
are primarily northern Europeans seeking
the sunshine of the Algarve.
RELIGION
Portugal is around 95% Roman Catholic;
other Christian denominations make up
much of the remaining population, as well as
many Muslims and a small number of Jews.
ARTS
Music
The best-known form of Portuguese music
is the melancholy, nostalgic songs called
fado (literally fate) said to have originated
from troubadour and African slave songs.
Architecture
Unique to Portugal is Manueline architecture, named after its patron King Manuel I
(14951521). It symbolises the zest for discovery of that era and is hugely flamboyant,
characterised by fantastic spiralling columns
and elaborate carving and ornamentation.
Visual Arts
Portugals stunning painted azulejo tiles
coat contemporary life, covering everything
from houses to churches. The art form dates
from Moorish times and reached a peak in
the late 19th century when the Art Nouveau
and Art Deco movements provided fantastic faades and interiors. Lisbon has its very
own azulejo museum (p627).
ENVIRONMENT
Portugal is one of Europes smallest countries, stretching just 563km from north to
south and 220km at its widest eastwest
point. The country is bordered on the north
and east by Spain and on the south and west
by the Atlantic.
Wildlife
Portugal is home to the most endangered
big cat in the world, the Iberian lynx, as well
as a rare beast in the dog family, the rustycoloured Iberian wolf. However, you are
far more likely to come across foxes, deer,
otters or even wild boars. Bird enthusiasts
will be kept very happy with a vast range of
species, including storks, eagles and among
the wetland species, flamingos, spoonbills
and egrets, which can be seen in natural
parks like Ria Formosa (p638).
National Parks
Portugal has 25 natural parks, nature reserves and protected landscape areas. These
areas total approximately 6500 sq km just

over 7% of Portugals land area. There
are 13 World Heritage Sites in Portugal.
Check them out on the Web at http://whc
.unesco.org.
Environmental Issues
Portugal has been suffering from its worst
drought in decades with devastating losses
to livestock and agriculture. In many parts
of the country, January 2005 was the driest
January in more than 100 years. Travellers
are urged to be prudent in hotels: dont
send your towels for a daily wash and take
showers, never a bath. Continuing on a
watery theme, the criticism concerning the
2002 Alqueva dam near Beja continues. To
create the dam, Europes largest artificial
lake, over a million oak and olive trees were
cut down and some 160 rocks covered with
Stone Age drawings were submerged. On a
more positive note, Portugal has fast come
up to speed in the recycling department
with colour-coded receptacles in every
town and city.
FOOD & DRINK

In the larger towns and cities in this chapter,
restaurants are divided into budget (2 to
7), midrange (8 to 12) and top end (13
to 20) for the average price of a main dish.
Staples & Specialities

Portuguese cuisine is home-style cooking
rather than haute cuisine. Seafood is the
national favourite, especially caldeirada
(seafood stew), sardinhas assadas (grilled
sardines) and the omnipresent bacalhau
(dried cod), reputedly prepared in some
365 ways.
Meat dishes can be a letdown; consider
going for the splurge with leito (roast
suckling pig). Chicken is best when barbecued and piri-piri (chilli) sauce livens up
the simplest dish.
Diet-defying cafs and pastelarias (pastry
shops) are everywhere in Portugal and offer
splendid desserts and cakes.
Portuguese coffee is excellent in even
the grungiest bar. A small black espresso is
known as a bica in the south and elsewhere
simply as a caf. Half coffee, half milk is
caf com leite. Local cerveja (beer) includes
Sagres in the south and Super Bock in the
north.
L I S B O N 623
Portuguese vinho (wine) offers excellent

value in all its varieties: tinto (red), branco
(white) and vinho verde (semi-sparkling
young), which is usually white. Restaurants
often serve drinkable vino da casa (house
wine) for as little as 2.50 per 350ml jug.
Port, synonymous with Portugal, is produced in the Douro Valley to the east of
Porto.
Where to Eat & Drink

The line between snacks and meals is
blurred. For full meals try a tasca, a restaurante cervejaria (bar-restaurant) or a
marisqueira (seafood restaurant). Lunch
time typically lasts from noon to 3pm, and
evening meals from 7pm to 10.30pm.
The prato do dia (dish of the day) is often
a bargain, as is the ementa turistica (tourist
menu). Be very wary of the couvert (the
bread, cheese, butter, olives and other titbits at the start of a meal): they cost extra.
You can send them back without causing
offence. All restaurants in this chapter are
open daily for lunch (noon to 3pm) and
dinner (7pm to 10pm) unless otherwise
noted.
Vegetarians & Vegans

The typical Portuguese menu is tough on
vegetarians, although the ubiquitous sopa
de legumes (vegetable soup) is often included as a starter, together with the inevitable salada (salad). In general, the only
other option (for vegetarians) is an omeleta
simple (plain omelette) or the marginally
more exciting omeleta com queijo (cheese
omelette). Vegans have an even tougher
time, although Chinese restaurants are
fairly common and always have plenty of
meat- and dairy-free options.
LISBON
pop 720,000
Lisbon has a seductive melancholy charm

and is more like a large town than a capital
city. Its small enough to walk or, if youre
all blistered out, you can always hop on one
of the vintage street trams that shudder up
and down the hills. The city is a heady mix
of crumbling pastel-coloured houses, grand
squares and a maze of narrow lanes and alleys. Spread over seven hills on the Rio Tejo
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
622 P O R T U G A L Pe o p l e
L I S B O N 625
lo
be
Re
d
Av
Saldanha
Av da
Ponte
nt
o
Sa
te
an
In
f
Av
da
da Alju
Calada
Av Almi
rante
Per Av Fo
eira nte
de s
Me
lo
37
ia
To Setbal
To Barreiro
To Cacilhas;
Almada
menta
Chelas
4
III
XABREGAS
20
SLEEPING
Casa de So Mamede.................. 24
Lisboa Camping Parque Municipal..25
Posadas de Portugal..................... 26
Pousada da Juventude..................27
er
iv )
s R ejo
gu io T
Ta (R
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Centro de Arte Moderna..............14
Mosteiro dos Jernimos............... 15
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian........16
Museu da Marinha...................... 17
Museu do Design.........................18
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga... 19
Museu Nacional do Azulejo......... 20
Oceanarium.................................21
Pavilho do Conhecimento..........22
Torre de Belm............................ 23
D5
B4
C5
H1
EATING
Beira Mar......................................28 F5
Bem Belem...................................29 B6
Centro de Arte Moderna............(see 14)
Confeitaria de Belm....................30 B6
Jardim do Marisco........................31 F5
Lautasco.......................................32 F5
Real Fbrica................................. 33 D5
To Montijo;
Seixal
Ponte 25
de Abril
ceanos
Av In
so
SANTA
APOLNIA
Martim
Moniz
38
Restauradores
GRAA
Rossio
Rossio
Igreja da So
3
Vicente de Fora
BAIRRO
Santa Apolnia
28
ALTO BaixaCASTELO
(Metro Station due
Chiado
to open 2007/8)
32
BAIXA
31
Rua da Pi
Av C
id
on
See Central Lisbon Map
Alcntar
Rua Ferreira Borges
ed
o
Pe
n
do
da
tra
Es
scob
ertas
s De
Av d
a
Alf
To Trafaria
To Porto
Brando
qu
23
Intendente
a nd
Av d
North-South
Railway Line
35
Doca de
Av de Braslia
12
Avenida
Do
19
Alcntara-Mar
ira
Rua da Junque
33
24
Chelas
Cais do Sodr
AJUDA
40
Rato
ESTRELA
LAPA
29 30
18
Av
Albuqu er
uta
15
17
1
e Ce
ra
do
Restelo
BELM
11
26
Av
To Cruz
Quebrada (3km);
Oeiras (9km);
Estoril (20km);
Cascais (23km)
ALCNTARA
res
Anjos
6
8
21
oa
o de
Av d
RESTELO
Me
d'gua
34
is S
Marqus
de Pombal
Dua
Av Eng
Mora
zinh
ou
lvito
do A
eco
rte Pach
Rua
ra
da
sta
Bela
Vista
Olaias
Alameda
Av
Est
adei
da M
Rua do Alto
do Duque
Av Almira
nte Gago
SALDANHA
Parque
Av
Ilh
aC
o
Areeiro
Picoas
CRIL-IC17
ica
Arroios
To Estoril (23km);
Cascais (26km)
sd
Estrada de
Livres
10
So Sebastio
CAMPOLIDE
A5-IC15
me
39
N117
25
Go
22
Doca dos
Olivais
iq
u
de
16
14
Olivais
Gare do
Oriente
nr
Praa de Espanha
ua
hal
da Amr
Av Joo
He
rec
om
Av
da
OLIVAIS
NORTE
te
D
to
Berlim
fa
n
edu
Campo
Pequeno
na
Ber
ica
Av da Repbl
ro
Av 5 de Outub
Aqu
Parque
Florestal
de Monsanto
To The
Algarve
(240km)
Espera
na
PARQUE
DAS NAES
13
Jardim
Zoolgico
Ma
Entrecampos
Poente
Entrecampos
Av de Boa
Cabo Ruivo
Reis
al
Ma
Av
IC19
Roma
Unidos
de
Av de
Coutinho
ad
s Arm
For
as
tvel
s
Av dos Estado
Entrecampos
as
Laranjeiras
Alvalade
Cidade
Universitria
Be
ns
ndes
Av do Santo Co
nd
Gra
Alto dos
Moinhos
To Queluz (5km);
Almornos (20km);
Sintra (28km)
po
Alameda da
Universidade
do
In
ixe
Te
Matos
ton de
or
lN
era
Colgio
en
Militar-Luz v G
A
36
Av
Lu
sia
da
Cam
rec
h
Av
ira
Carnide
Av Marechal Craveiro Lopes
H
27
fre
IC1
Campo
Grande
Al
a dos O
Pontinha
Dr
fante
Dom
Hen
riqu
Aeroporto
de Lisboa
To Ponte de Vasco
da Gama (1.5km);
Santarm (60km); A1
to Porto (305km)
1 km
0.5 miles
Alamed
D
To Torres
Vedras (40km);
Caldas da Rainha
(88km)
Av Infante Dom Henrique
Av
ade
do Porto
A
INFORMATION
Ask Me Lisboa............................... 1 A6
Ask Me Lisboa................................ F1
2
Ask Me Lisboa................................3 F5
Australian Embassy......................(see 6)
Automvel Clube de Portugal
(ACP).........................................4 E4
British Hospital...............................5 D5
Canadian Embassy..........................6 E4
French Embassy.............................7 D5
Instituto Portugus da Juventudo...8 E4
Irish Embassy.................................9 D5
Movijovem...................................10 E4
Netherlands Embassy...................11 D5
UK Embassy & Consulate.............12 D5
US Embassy.................................13 D3
Av
D3
A6
D3
A6
A6
D5
G4
H2
H2
A6
ENTERTAINMENT
Amoreiras Cinema....................... 34
Blues Caf.................................... 35
Colombo Cinema......................... 36
Dock's Club................................. 37
Lux...............................................38
D4
C6
C2
D6
F5
TRANSPORT
Arco do Cego Bus Terminal..........39 E3
Tejo Bike...................................... 40 B6
PORTUGAL
0
0
LISBON
Av Dom Joo II
PORTUGAL
624 L I S B O N
and crowned by a castle, the modern centre

is contrasted by the Alfamas medieval tangle of cobbled streets.
Providing you avoid the obvious touristtouting places, you wont need to stress your
wallet on food or accommodation here. We
cant vouch for the spoilt-for-choice nightlife however. That is one aspect of town that
has a definite big-city buzz.
Lisboa Welcome Center (Map pp628-9; %210 312

810; 2nd fl, Praa do Comrcio; per hr 3; h9am-8pm)
Web Caf (Map pp628-9; %213 421 181; Rua do Dirio
de Notcias 126; per hr 3; h2pm-2am)
ORIENTATION
The rotation of emergency, night service

and Sunday schedules are posted on the
door of all pharmacies.
British Hospital (Map pp624-5; %213 955 067; Rua
Baixa is the modern city centre with its grid

of streets and huge square to the south,
Praa do Comrcio. To the north stands
Praa Dom Pedro IV, better known as Rossio square, surrounded by cafs, bars and
shops. Chiado and Bairro Alto districts lie
above the Baixa to the west. The Chiado
is the affluent quarter with sophisticated
shops, restaurants and cafs, while the atmospheric Bairro Alto is famed for its lively
nightlife.
Alfama, northeast of the Baixa, is the
oldest part of Lisbon with its warren of
medieval streets plunging from the castle
to the river.
Belm, a peaceful suburb 6km west of
Rossio, is home to the magnificent Mosteiro
dos Jernimos, and several other historical
sights.
Saldanha district is around a kilometre
northeast of Marqus de Pombal; it has a
couple of great museums and a metro stop,
but not much else.
Emergency
Police station (Map pp628-9; Rua Capelo)
Tourist police post (Map pp628-9; Rossia train station)
Medical Services
Saraiva de Carvalho 49) English-speaking staff and dental

care available.
Farmcia Estcio (Map pp628-9; %213 211 390;
Rossio 62) Good central pharmacy.
Money
Cota Cmbios (Map pp628-9; %213 220 470; Rossio
41) One of the best exchange rates in town.
Post
Main Post office (Map pp628-9; Praa do Comrcio;
h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Handles
poste restante collection.
Post office (Map pp628-9; Praa dos Restauradores;
h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) This second
branch is opposite the ICEP tourist office.
Telephone
Portugal Telecom (Map pp628-9; Rossio 68) Telephone
booths available and phonecards for sale.
INFORMATION
Tourist Information
English Bookshop (Map pp628-9; %213 428 472; Rua
658 435) At the entrance to the monastery; Lisbon airport

(Map pp624-5; %218 450 660); Palcio Foz (Map
pp628-9; %213 463 314; Praa dos Restauradores); Santa
Apolnia train station (Map pp624-5; %218 821 606) All
kiosks have free maps and the bimonthly guide Follow Me
Lisboa, and sell the Lisboa Card.
Gay & Lesbian Community Center (Centro Comunitrio Gay e Lsbico de Lisboa; Map pp628-9; %218 873
918; Rua de So Lazaro 88; h5-9pm Mon-Sat) Has gayfriendly info on bars, restaurants and clubs. Also check
websites: www.ilga-portugal.org and www.portugal
gay.pt.
ICEP tourist office (Map pp628-9; %213 463 314;
www.askmelisboa.com; Palcio Foz, Praa dos Restauradores) Deals with national inquiries.
Lisboa Welcome Center (Map pp628-9; %210 312
810; www.visitlisboa.com; Praa do Comrcio) Concentrates on Lisbon.
Bookshops
de So Maral 83) Has a good range of English books.
Discount Cards
The Lisboa Card is a cost-saving pass that
covers travel on the metro, Carris buses,
some trains, all trams and lifts, as well as
admission to 28 museums, historic buildings and other places of interest. Theres
also discounted entry to about 40 other attractions. You can buy the Lisboa Card at
the airport, tourist offices and from travel
agencies. The 24-/48-/72-hour versions cost
13.50/23/28.
Internet Access
Cyber Bica (Map pp628-9; %213 225 004; Rua Duques de
Bragana; per hr 3; hnoon-2am Mon-Fri, 7pm-2am Sat)
Ask Me Lisboa kiosks Belm (Map pp624-5; %213
SIGHTS
Lisbon has an enviable roll call of sights
that can be explored by foot. Alternatively,
hop on the funicular, tram or metro. Admission is usually half-price for children,
students and seniors, and free for everyone
on Sundays.
Alfama
This ancient district resembles a medieval
blockbuster set with its moody maze of
twisted alleys and steeply slanted streets.
The terrace at Largo das Portas do Sol provides
the souvenir snapshot of the city.
Casa do Fado (Map pp628-9; %218 823 470; Largo do
L I S B O N S i g h t s 627
LISBON IN TWO DAYS

Kick-start your day with a coffee at Caf
a Brasileira (p632) in Baixa. Next, explore
Alfama and the Castelo de So Jorge (left).
Grab a bite, then tram it to Belm and the
Mosteiro dos Jernimos (left). Return to
Bairro Alto for dinner at Cervejaria da
Trindade (p631). Check out the bars here
before boogying down to super-cool nightclub Lux (p632). The next day, catch a train
to Sintra (p634), returning in time to watch
a fado show (p632).
Chafariz de Dentro 1; adult/child 2.50/1.25; h10am-1pm

& 2-5.30pm) provides vibrant audiovisual cov-
A must for old salts is the Museu da Marinha (Maritime Museum; Map pp624-5; %213 620 019;
erage of the history of fado from its workingclass roots to a recreated fado house.
Dating from Visigothic times, Castelo de
So Jorge (Map pp628-9; %218 800 620; adult/child
3/1.50; h9am-9pm Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb) sits
high above the city with spine-tingling
views. If you cant hack the hike, take bus
37 from Rossio or tram 28 from Largo Martim Moniz.
adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm OctMar), with all kinds of seafaring parapher-
Belm
This quarter 6km west of the Rossio is a
grand canvas reflecting Portugals Golden
Age and is home to Lisbons most emblematic religious building. It has a mellow vibe
with chairs on squares and reputedly the
best pastis de nata (custard tarts) in the
country (see p632).
To reach Belm take the train, bus 28
from Praa do Comrcio, or tram 15 from
Praa da Figueira.
Mosteiro dos Jernimos (Map pp624-5; %213 620
034; Praa do Imprio; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-5pm
Tue-Sun) dates from 1496 and is a soaring ex-
travaganza of Manueline architecture with

stunning carvings and ceramic tiles.
The Museu do Design (Map pp624-5; %213 612
934; Praa do Imprio; adult/child 3/1.75; h11am-8pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) has a cutting-edge
collection dating from the 1930s, covering

Art Deco and Frank Gehry recycled pieces
from the 70s.
The Torre de Belm (Map pp624-5; %213 620 034;
admission 3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) symbolises the
voyages that made Portugal powerful and is
the tourist icon of Portugal. Brave the tiny
steps to the turret peak for the natural high
of panoramic views.
nalia including model ships.
Saldanha
The celebrated Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Map
pp624-5; %217 823 461; Ave de Berna 45; adult/child 3/
free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mPraa de Espanha) has
a superb collection donated by a wealthy

Armenian philanthropist. There are Egyptian, Asian, Greek and Islamic artefacts and
contemplative paintings by such beret-andsmock masters as Renoir, Rembrandt and
Monet.
Lisbons Centro de Arte Moderna (Modern Art
Centre; Map pp624-5; %217 823 474; Rua Dr Nicaulau
de Bettencourt; adult/child 3/free; h10am-6pm TueSun; mPraa de Espanha) is prettily approached
via the gardens. Enjoy most of the biggies

from Portugals modern-art scene, including London-based Paula Rego whose childhood in Portugal is strongly reflected in her
haunting and theatrical themes. Check out
the excellent restaurant (see p631).
Santa Apolnia & Lapa

The following two museums are a sidestep
away from the city centre, but well worth
the extra shoe leather.
The Museu Nacional do Azulejo (Map pp624-5;
%218 100 340; Rua Madre de Deus 4; adult/child 3/1.50;
h10am-6pm Wed-Sun, 2-6pm Tue) languishes in a
sumptuous 17th-century convent. Exhibits

include a fascinating 36m tile panel of preearthquake Lisbon.
The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Ancient Art
Museum; Map pp624-5; %213 962 825; Rua das Janelas
Verdes; admission 3; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun, 2-6pm Tue)
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
626 L I S B O N O r i e n t a t i o n
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
w w accommodation online at
0
0
CENTRAL LISBON
R do A
lecrim
R da Pa
lma
Graa
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our
aM
Moniz
ar tim
oA
Rd
Rd
rco
da
oeiro
oL
im
ALFAMA
R So
Julio
Lg
da S
R dos
Bacalh
R de So Joo
31
oeiro
Av da Ribeir
a das Naus
P do
Comrcio
om
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ant
f
Av In
Terreiro do Pao
(due to open 2007/8)
Cais do
Sodr
17
Campo das
Cebolas
R da Alfndega
8
9
R de So Tom
elo
ast
oC
R Santa Cruz d
am
Rd
R da Emenda
res
R Regedo
r
Sculo
Sorian
o
R da
Rosa
R Luz
R do Carmo
im
R do
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R da M
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rreeiros
R das Flo
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Rd
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on
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R das O
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R da M
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Fanque
R dos
R dos Co
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51
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7/8
200 nha
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73
Carris (Map pp628-9; %966 298 558; www.carris.pt;

Praa da Figueira; adult/child from 14/8) Offers various
bus, tram and walking tours.
Transtejo (Map pp628-9; %218 820 348; www.transtejo.pt; Terreiro do Pao ferry terminal; adult/child 20/8;
hMar-Oct) Runs cruises on the Tagus. There are great
views of the city from this watery perspective.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The Festa do Santo Antnio (Festival of Saint

Anthony), from 12 June to 13 June, culminates the three-week Festas de Lisboa, with
processions and dozens of street parties.
SLEEPING
Prices listed are high season (July to midSeptember) when it is advisable to reserve
ahead.
67
River
Tagus Tejo)
(Rio
68
To Cacilhas
Martinho da Arcada .......................51 E4

Solar do Vinho do Porto.................52 C3
ENTERTAINMENT
ABEP Ticket Kiosk.......................... 53
Adega do Ribatejo......................... 54
Adega Machado............................55
Discoteca Jamaica..........................56
Finalmente......................................
57
Hot Clube de Portugal....................58
eS
The old wharves have been slickly revamped

into a gilded strip of bars and restaurants
with tables sprawling out onto the promenade. After your blow-out brunch, enjoy
a waterfront stroll to Belm.
TOURS
Lg de So
Martinho
omrci
R Vitor Cordon
CASTELO
66
R do C
P do
Duque da
Terceira
ata
onceio
R de C
Rd
interactive exhibits for kids of all ages. Take

the metro to Oriente station an equally
impressive Expo project.
Alcntara
19
36
R da Pr
BAIXA
18
R dos
Cais do
Sodr
xo
59
28
BaixaChiado
R Capelo
10
56
lar
ta
R Augus
pateiros
mo
C de Sant'ana
BaixaChiado
R Garrett
no
002; www.oceanario.pt; adult/child 10/5; h10am-7pm;

mOriente), Europes largest, and Pavilho do
Conhecimento (Living Science Centre; Map pp624-5;
%218 917 100; adult/child 5/2.50; h10am-6pm TueFri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun; mOriente) with over 300
ima
do L
33
32
su
R da As
onte
de P
Lg de
Rodrigues
de Freitas
25
30
72
u
arq
P da
Figueira
a Justa
R Sant
Lg do
Terreirinho
Costa do Castelo
sga
R Bete
Crucifi
48
Re
34
Largo
Martim
Moniz
27
16
R dos Sa
ho
os
42
64
63
4
P Dom
Pedro IV
(Rossio)
R urea
R do
Av 24 de Jul
39
Rd
50
R Ivens
bro
e Dezem
Rd
P
Dom
Luis I
to
R Dom Luis
Lg do
Carmo
Lg do
Baro de
Quintela
lo
35
P de
Lus Cames
Pau
An
38
11
The former Expo 98 site, a revitalised

2km-long waterfront area in the northeast,
equals a family-fun day out. It includes a
whopping Oceanarium (Map pp624-5; %218 917
47
Rossio
49
R Serpa Pinto
eS
inidade
da Tr
RN
Mise ricrdia
R da
54
to
69
Rd
43
45
55
61
Lore
44
15
Tv da Espera
R do
to
an
aS
d
as
cias
de Not
Tv P Cidade
41
C do
Duque
ara
ombro
Lg de
Domingos
Rossio
t
lcn
oA
C do C
53
70
60
20
23
7
14
52
BAIRRO ALTO
29
edr
D3
C4
D3
D3
22
R da Atalaia
DRINKING
A Ginjinha................................. 47
Caf a Brasileira......................... 48
Caf Nicola................................ 49
Caf Vertigo.............................. 50
ort
R Luisa
46
R Dirio
E3
F3
D3
C3
E4
C1
D3
B5
B1
C3
D3
C3
D3
C3
B2
as
V
24
odi
T
o P
EATING
A Outra Face da Lua..................32
Arco do Castelo..........................33
Casa Suia................................. 34
Cervejaria da Trinidade.............. 35
Gandhi Palace............................36
La Caff.....................................37
Leo d'Ouro.............................. 38
Mercado da Ribeira....................39
Os Tibetanos..............................40
Pap Acorda...............................41
Pingo Doce Supermarket........... 42
Restaurante Floresta da Cidada..43
Restaurante O Sol...................... 44
Restaurante Sinal Vermelho.......45
Rosa da Rua...............................46
ria
dro
57
12
Restauradores
RS
SLEEPING
Hotel Anjo Azul..........................20 nB3
R Sa
Hotel Britania.............................21 C1
Penso Globo.............................22 C3
Penso Imperial......................... 23 D2
R da
Boav
Penso Londres..........................24 C2
ista
Penso Norte..............................25 E3
Penso Residencial 13 da Sorte... B1
26
Penso Residencial Gers............27 E3
Residencial Duas Naes............ 28 D4
Residencial Florescente.............. 29 D2
Residencial Insulana................... 30 D3
S Guest House..........................31 F4
aip
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Carris......................................... 16 D3
Casa do Fado.............................17 F4
Castelo de So Jorge...................18 F3
Largo das Portas do Sol..............19 F3
Transtejo..................................(see 73)
sT
RD
65 om Pe
osa
R da R
P dos
Restauradores
da
Bento
INFORMATION
Ask Me Lisboa...........................(see 7)
Cota Cmbios.............................. 1 D3
Cyber Bica................................... 2 C4
English Bookshop.........................3 A2
Farmcia Estcio.......................... 4 D3
Gay & Lesbian Community Centre.. E1
5
German Embassy.........................6 D1
ICEP Tourist Office.......................7 C2
Lisboa Welcome Center............... 8 D5
Main Post Office......................... 9 D5
Police Station............................. 10 D4
Portugal Telecom....................... 11 D3
Post Office ................................ 12 D2
Spanish Embassy........................13 C1
Lg
Tourist Police Post...................... 14 C2
de Jesus
Web Caf.................................. 15 C3
P do
Principe Real
lria
aG
o d
cei
on
RC
La
a ro
cn
ica
P
as
lit
1
eS
Ptria
Po
da
Im
is in Lapa, Lisbons moneyed diplomatic

quarter, and houses a ripping collection of
works by Portuguese painters.
Parque das Naes
71
Rd
Na
g
R da Ale
R de S
sa
en
pr
la
Jos
n
cio
sco
Rd
Praa da
Alegria
ria
aE
37
58
Rd
eS
e
ad
erd
Lib
Jardim
Botnico
T
do
Rd
de
13
al 62
al
elh
Av
rc
RA
RM
26
Avenida
M
oS
da
rtires
os M
po d
Cam
40
ed
am
500 m
0.3 miles
Cardoso
R do Salitre
L I S B O N T o u r s 629
21
o
ilh
ast
R Antn
io Maria
RC
PORTUGAL
D2
C4
C3
C5
B2
C1
Gilns Irish Pub...........................59

Portas Largas..................................60
Tertlia..........................................61
Trumps..........................................62
C5
C3
C3
A2
SHOPPING
Fabrica Sant'Ana............................63
Grandes Armazens do Chiado........ 64
Moy Garrafeira...............................65
Santos Ofcios................................66
C4
D4
B2
E4
Baixa & Alfama
To Cacilhas
TRANSPORT
Cais de Alfndega Ferry Terminal...67
Cais do Sodr Ferry Terminal......... 68
Elevador da Bica.............................69
Elevador da Glria..........................70
Elevador de Lavra...........................71
Elevador de Santa Justa..................72
Terreiro do Pao Ferry Terminal......73
To Seixal
E5
C6
B4
C2
D2
D3
E5
To Barreiro
Beira Mar (Map pp628-9; %218 871 528; Largo Te

rreiro do Trigo 16; s/d with shared bathroom 25/35) The
river location and views create an ambience of luxury accommodation for bargainbasement prices.
Penso Imperial (Map pp628-9; %213 420 166; 4th
fl, Praa dos Restauradores 78; s/d with shared bathroom
25/35; mRestauradores) Located a short suitcase
trundle from the main square, readers have
PORTUGAL
628 L I S B O N C e n t r a l L i s b o n
raved about this cheery place with its charismatic owner and spotless comfortablyworn rooms.
Residencial Insulana (Map pp628-9; %213 423
131; www.insulana.cjb.net; Rua da Assuno 32; s/d 45/50;
a; mBaixa) Ignore the shabby entrance, this
is a real value-for-money place with goodsized carpeted rooms, satellite TV and a

buzzy location in the heart of Baixa.
Residencial Florescente (Map pp628-9; % 213
463 517; www.residencialflorescente.com; Rua das Portas
de Santo Anto 99; s/d/t 45/55/70; ap; mRestauradores) A popular hotel on pedestrian cob-
bles surrounded by bars, restaurants and

streetlife. Rooms are light and bright with
satellite TV and wi-fi coverage.
Penso Residencial Gers (Map pp628-9; %218
810 497; www.pensaogeres.com; Calada do Garcia 6;
s/d with shared bathroom 50/60; i; mRossio) A
Book accommodation online at .www.lonelyplanet.com

www lonelyplanet.com
or 303 with large windows overlooking the

leafy street.
Hotel Anjo Azul (Map pp628-9; %213 478 069;
A Outra Face da Lua (Map pp628-9; %218 863

430; Rua da Assuno 22; snacks 3; h9am-9pm MonSat; mRossio) Shop for vintage threads then
Centro de Arte Moderna (Map pp628-9; %213 256

736; Rua Dr Nicaulau de Bettencourt; mains 8; hlunch
Tue-Sun; mPraa de Espanha) The restaurant at
http://anjoazul.cb2web.com; Rua Luz Soriano 75; s/d

45/55; na) The citys first gay hotel is
check out the natty caf with its salad range,

sandwiches and healthy snacks.
Casa Suia (Map pp628-9; %213 214 090; Praa Dom
this museum has a tasty lunchtime buffet

with more salad choice than you can shake
a carrot stick at, plus good value meat and
fish mains.
Real Fbrica (Map pp624-5; %213 852 090; Rua
da Escola Politcnica 275; mains from 8; mRato) This
cool, if self-conscious, converted silk factory
produces elegant, interesting food with an
emphasis on seafood.
La Caff (Map pp628-9; % 213 256 736; Av de
located in a tidy blue-and-white tiled 18thcentury townhouse, a short shimmy from

the Bairro Altos gay bar district. The rooms
are colourful, upbeat and modern.
Penso Londres (Map pp628-9; %213 462 203; www
.pensaolondres.com.pt; Rua Dom Pedro V 53; s/d/t
50/75/90) This friendly and popular place has
old-fashioned appeal with large, high-ceiling, carpeted rooms. Those on the 4th floor
have camera-clicking views of the city.
Casa de So Mamede (Map pp624-5; %213 963 166;
fax 213 951 896; Rua Escola Politcnica 159; s/d 75/80; a)
A soothing stay in 18th-century surroundings; this former magistrates house has

gorgeous original tiles and elegant antiqueclad rooms.
family-run place with some English, plus

religious pics, traditional tiles and fussy
comfortable rooms. Go for corner room
105 with its five-star views.
S Guest House (Map pp628-9; %218 864 400; 2nd
fl, Rua So Joo da Praa 97; d 70) Owner Luis is a
keen traveller and cultural buff, hence the
intriguing clutter of global artefacts. There
are neck-craning cathedral views from several of the romantic rooms.
Also recommended are:
Penso Norte (Map pp628-9; %218 878 941; 2nd fl,
%217 623 100; Parque Florestal de Monsanto; camp sites

5) This is a leafy spot 6km northwest of
Rua dos Douradores 159; d 45, with shared bathroom 35)

Residencial Duas Naes (Map pp628-9; %213 460
710; Rua da Vitria 41; s/d 35/45, with shared bathroom
25/30)
EATING
Greater Lisbon
Lisboa Camping Parque Municipal (Map pp624-5;
town. Take bus 43 from Cais do Sodr.
Pousada da Juventude (Map pp624-5; %218 920
890; Via de Moscavide; dm/d 15/42; mPicoas) This
place is the pick of the hostels, with good
rooms plus restaurant, cooking and laundry
facilities.
Pedro IV 96-104; snacks from 3; hclosed Mon; mRossio) A wood-panelled classic with adorably-
named cream cakes like susanas and kisses,

plus savoury rolls.
Restaurante O Sol (Map pp628-9; % 213 471
944; Calada do Duque 23; mains 2.50-5; mRossio) A
macrobiotic and vegetarian restaurant up
steep steps, with heady castle views and
healthy soy-burger-style bites.
Arco do Castelo (Map pp628-9; %218 876 598; Rua do
Cho da Feira 25; mains 7) Surprisingly reasonable
considering the ace position across from the
castle, the curries at this Indo-Portuguese
restaurant tick all the right succulent/spicy
boxes.
Lautasco (Map pp624-5; Beco do Azinhal 7-7A; mains
9; a) Full points for atmosphere with seating on a secluded square in the shade of a
magnificent rubber tree. The usual suspects
are on the menu, including cod fritters and
bacalhau.
Gandhi Palace (Map pp628-9; %218 873 839;
Rua dos Douradores 214-216; mains 8; mBaixa-Chiado)
Good central choice for those suffering

from curry-house withdrawal; the mango
milk shake is a must. If you like it hot, ask
local tastes are mild.
Jardim do Marisco (Map pp624-5; %218 824 242;
touches and massive luxury rooms in this

go-for-the-splurge hotel, a short walk from
the centre.
Unsurprisingly, seafood is widely available here and locals have an insatiable

appetite for all things Brazilian, including
feijoada (bean stew) and the daily dose of
soap operas. Presentation is not a strong
point, think generous portions rather than
tower building and drizzle. Avoid tourist
rip-offs like some of the energetic restaurants on Baixas Correeiros. The Bairro
Alto has some good-value eateries, while
the Alfama has some of the most characterful restaurants, but can be touristy on the
main castle route. The Mercado da Ribeira (Av
da 24 de Julho; h5am-2pm Mon-Sat), is near Cais
do Sodr station.
Bairro Alto & Saldanha
Baixa & Alfama
Salitre 117; mains from 6; hclosed Sat & Sun; na;

mAvenida) Doubles as a Tibetan Buddhist
Penso Globo (Map pp628-9; %213 462 279; www

.pglobo.com; Rua do Teixeira 37; s/d 20/30; i) Run
by friendly English-speaking folk, Globo is
a no-frills cheapie. Go for rooms 301, 302
Pingo Doce (Map pp628-9; Rua de Dezembro 73; mRossio) A good central supermarket, with a
handy health-food shop with vegetarian
buffet right next door.
school with Zen-style surroundings, a leafy

patio and a diverse meatless menu; try the
Japanese mushrooms with seaweed and
tofu.
Avenida de Liberdade
Penso Residencial 13 da Sorte (Map pp628-9;
%213 539 746; www.trezedasorte.no.sapo.pt; Rua do
Salitre 13; s/d/t 40/50/60; a; mAvenida) A popular
place on a slumbering side street, with shiny

tiled floors and pretty blue-and-white rooms
with fridges.
Hotel Britania (Map pp628-9; %213 155 016; www
.heritage.pt; Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 17; s/d 215/235;
pnai; mAvenida) Classic Art Deco
L I S B O N E a t i n g 631
Av Infante Dom Henrique, Doca Jardim do Tobaco; mains

10; a) In an ideal river-side setting for a
spot of refuelling, this large airy warehouse

conversion has a diverse menu of grilled
meats, seafood and pasta, plus cut-price
kiddie choices.
Leo dOuro (Map pp628-9; %213 426 195; Rua 1
de Dezembro 105; mains 18; a; mRossio) With a
gracious interior of arches and tiles, classic
dishes include feijoada. Be warned, there
are several aquariums here so your dinner
may just be watching you.
Avenida de Liberdade
Os Tibetanos (Map pp628-9; %213 142 038; Rua do
Liberdade 129B; mains 10; h12.30-3.30pm & 8pm11pm Tue-Sun; a ; m Restauradores) Upbeat
minimalist dcor plus free internet, giant

fashion-TV screens and a creative twist on
Med cuisine, like chicken curry risotto and
ricotta mousse with honey, spices and ruccula (rocket).
Bairro Alto & Saldanha

Cervejaria da Trindade (Map pp628-9; %213 423
506; Rua Nova da Trindade 20C; mains 7; mBaixa-Chiado)
This vaulted restaurant has fairly pedestrian

food, but the setting, in a former convent
with dazzling tile work, provides serious
food for thought.
Rosa da Rua (Map pp628-9; %213 432 195; Rua
da Rosa 265; mains 8-10; hclosed Mon) A stylish
eatery with minimalist metal-and-stone interior, this restaurant has an innovative menu
of dishes, including fried pork with chestnuts
and steak with peanut butter sauce.
Restaurante Sinal Vermelho (Map pp628-9;
%213 461 252; Rua das Gveas 89; mains 8.50-11.50;
hclosed Sat lunch & Sun; a) This elegant res-
taurant on a cobbled corner is decorated

with breezy-blue azulejos and shelves of
dusty bottles. The menu is reassuringly
traditional with eight varieties of grilled
fish and the like.
Pap Acorda (Map pp628-9; %213 464 811; Rua da
Atalaia 57-59; mains 12-15; hclosed Sun & Mon; a)
Lisbon luvvies lord it up in this former

bakery now hung with thick curtains and
chandeliers. The house speciality is various
takes on acorda, a type of pure with lashings of coriander and garlic.
Restaurante Floresta da Cidada (Map pp628-9;
%213 460 621; Travessa Poo da Cidade 10-12; mains from
15) Eat in the tiled and palm-fringed terrace,
choosing from a reassuringly brief menu,

including meat and fish dishes topped off
with creamy mango mousse.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
630 L I S B O N E a t i n g
Belm
Confeitaria de Belm (Map pp624-5; %213 637 423;
Rua de Belm 86-88) A classically tiled and elegant
caf with reputedly the best pastis de nata in
Portugal. Delicious!
Bem Belm (Map pp624-5; %213 648 768; Rua
Vieira Portuense 72; mains 8; h closed Sun) This
popular meet-and-greet place serves simple
calorie-stoking food including mixed kebabs and squid with shrimps. Eat al fresco
overlooking the park.
DRINKING
Lisbon delivers the goods for caffeine and
calorie junkies with sumptuous Art Deco
cafs, particularly around Bairro Alto and
Rossio. The bars in Alcntara and Oriente
areas attract a well-heeled set while Alfama
has plenty of gluggable choices, including
moody low-lit places for cocktail hour.
Caf Nicola (Map pp628-9; %213 460 579; Rossio 24;
h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun;
mRossio) A world apart from the cookie-
cutter homogeneity of the international

chains, this Art Deco caf is a past winner
of the Caf of the Year award and has a
sumptuous interior and cakes.
Martinho da Arcada (Map pp628-9; %218 866 213;
Praa do Comrcio 3; h8am-11pm Mon-Sat; mBaixaChiado) Grab a coffee at the former haunt of
whats on. Check out www.visitlisboa.com

(Lisbon tourist office website) and www
.lisboacultural.pt (for cultural events).
Live Music
Adega Machado (Map pp628-9; %213 224 640; Rua do
Norte 91; h8.30pm-3am Tue-Sun) Earthy and authentic, run by Rita, goddaughter of the legendary Amalia Rodrigues; the walls are papered
with signed photos of fado enthusiasts
including Kirk Douglas.
Adega do Ribatejo (Map pp628-9; %213 468 343;
Rua Dirio de Notcias 23; h8.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat) A
dark atmospheric place with high-standard
nightly fado.
Hot Clube de Portugal (Map pp628-9; %213 467
369; Praa da Alegria 39; h10pm-2am Tue-Sat; mAvenida) Hot, sweaty and packed with nightly
gigs and raw new jazz sounds.

Gilns Irish Pub (Map pp628-9; %213 421 899;
Rua dos Remolares 8-10; h10am-2am; mCais do Sodr)
Predictable blarney atmosphere with live

music on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Tertlia (Map pp628-9; %213 462 704; Rua do Dirio
de Notcias 60; h7pm-late Mon-Sat) Low-lit bar with
newspapers, live jazz, exhibitions and a piano
for the occasional tinkling of the ivories.
Nightclubs
chairs and a lengthy list of quaffing port.

Caf Vertigo (Map pp628-9; %213 423 112; Travessa
do Carmo 4; h10am-late) A favourite of the young
literary set, this place has a bohemian buzz
with a fabulous stained glass ceiling, plus
newspapers and chess for kick-back time.
Cover charge for nightclubs vary from 12

to 180 depending on whether there is a DJ
or other attractions.
Lux (Map pp624-5; %218 820 890; Armazm A, Cais da
Pedra; h6pm-6am Tue-Sat, 4-8pm Sun) Hollywood
actor John Malkovich helped bankroll this
super-cool club with its peacocking crowd
of beautiful people.
Docks Club (Map pp624-5; %213 950 856; Rua
da Cintura do Porto; h11pm-6am Tue-Sat) Another
riverside dance temple attracting a voguish
clientele.
Blues Caf (Map pp624-5; %213 957 085; Rua da
Cintura do Porto; h11pm-6am Tue-Sat) Jazz, blues
and club nights, plus dockside drinking in a
cool former warehouse with chilled lighting
and a chic clientele.
Discoteca Jamaica (Map pp628-9; Rua Nova do
Carvalho; h11pm-4am) Enjoy reggae and 60s
and 70s sounds at this pulsating night spot
on an otherwise seedy street.
ENTERTAINMENT
Gay & Lesbian Venues
Pick up the free monthly Follow me Lisboa,

the Agenda Cultural Lisboa or quarterly Lisboa Step By Step from the tourist office for
Lisbon has a relaxed yet flourishing gay

scene, with an annual Gay Pride Festival at
the end of June.
Pessoa and sit at a table under the arches.

Caf a Brasileira (Map pp628-9; %213 469 547; Rua
Garrett 120; h8am-2pm; mBaixa-Chiado) Another
historic watering hole for Lisbons 19thcentury greats, with warm wooden innards
and a busy counter serving daytime coffees
and pints at night.
A Ginjinha (Map pp628-9; Largo de Domingos; mRossio) A quirky gem of a place specialising in
powerful ginjinha (cherry brandy); buy a
mini tumbler for just 0.70.
Solar do Vinho do Porto (Map pp628-9; %213 475
707; Rua So Pedro de Alcntara 45; h11am-midnight MonSat) Expect red carpet treatment with squishy
L I S B O N S h o p p i n g 633
TAKING THE BULL OUT OF BULLFIGHTING

Like it or loathe it, bullfighting is still a testosterone-fuelled important part of the Portuguese
culture. However, unlike neighbouring Spain its not standard TV viewing in every workingmans
bar and, more famously, the bull is not killed in the ring.
Bullfighting here dates back 2000 years when it was recorded by a Roman historian. In the
12th century, the tourada (bullfight) became a way to maintain military fitness and prepare nobles
for horseback battle. When one poor (albeit noble) fellow was gored to death, the bulls horns
became leather padded, as they are to this day.
The fight begins with a regal display of cavaliers dressed in 17th-century costumes and mounted on equally magnificently-harnessed horses. After complex exhibitions of haute icole, a single
cavalier gallops within inches of the bulls horns and plants several barbed spears into the animals
neck. The stars of the next act are eight elaborately-garbed men with a death wish. The leader
taunts the bull with a toddler tantrum of noisy knee-slapping and yelling before throwing himself
onto the animals head, grabbing the horns while his mates pile in to try and grab the beast.
The final act features the bull being led away to be killed. Only rarely will the bull be spared and
usually it is to be subjected to another fight rather than retirement in green pastures.
Portas Largas (Map pp628-9; %218 461 379; Rua

da Atalaia 105; h7pm-late Tue-Sat) An institution
in these parts with barn-size doors, a funloving vibe and giant carafes of sangria.
Trumps (Map pp628-9; Rua da Imprensa Nacional 104B;
h11pm-6am Tue-Sat) Not much elbow space in
these two bars; one has a dance floor for the
bump and grinders.
Finalmente (Map pp628-9; Rua da Palmeira 38;
h10pm-6am Mon-Sat) Expect a teeny heaving
dance floor and nightly drag shows.
Cinemas
Lisbon has dozens of cinemas, including
the multiscreen Amoreiras (Map pp624-5; %213
878 752) and Colombo (Map pp624-5; %217 113
222; mColgio Militar-Luz), both located within
shopping centres.
Sport
Lisbons football teams are Benfica, Belenenses and Sporting. Euro 2004 led to the
upgrading of the 65,000-seat Estdio da Luz
and the construction of a new 54,000-seat
Estdio Nacional. Bullfights are staged at
Campo Pequeno, recently reopened after
extensive reforms, between April and October. Tickets for both sports are available at
ABEP ticket kiosk (Map pp628-9; Praa dos Restauradores; mRestauradores).
SHOPPING
Shopping is fun here, with plenty of idiosyncratic small shops along with glossy
boutiques and shopping malls. Antique
shops are mainly in the Bairro Alto dis-
trict. Hand-painted ceramics can be found

around Baixa and Chiado. Largo do Chiado, across Rua da Misericrdia, is home to
some of Lisbons oldest and fanciest shops.
For designer boutiques take a high-heeled
strut down swanky Rua Garrett. For more
pedestrian fashion Rua Augusta in the
Baixa is good for the international chains
like Hennes, Intimisso and Zara.
Grandes Armazens do Chiado (Map pp628-9; Rua do
Carmo; mBaixa-Chiado) This shopping complex
is artfully concealed behind the restored
faade of the historic main department
store. The FNAC here is good for books,
music and booking concert tickets.
Moy Garrafeira (Map pp628-9; Rua Dom Pedro V 111)
The oldest Portuguese gourmet shop has
local cheeses and port, plus fabulously expensive imported wares including green
tea from Japan for an eye-watering 30
for 50g.
Fabrica SantAna (Map pp628-9; Rua do Alecrim 95;
mBaixa-Chiado) and Santos Ofcios (Map pp628-9;
Rua da Madalena 87) are touristy but have an
eclectic range of Portuguese folk art.
GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air
Portuglia and TAP have frequent daily

flights to/from Lisbon to Porto, Faro and
many European cities; see p658.
Bus
A dozen different companies, including Renex
(%218 940 285), operate from Gare do Oriente.
The Arco do Cego terminal (Map pp6245)
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
632 L I S B O N D r i n k i n g
is the base for Rede Expressos (%707 223

344; www.rede-expressos.pt) and EVA (%213 147
710; www.eva-bus.com), which cover the whole
country.
Pick it up from Carris kiosks and metro

stations. The Lisboa Card is good for unlimited travel on nearly all city transport
(see p626).
Train
Buses and trams run from 6am to 1am, with

a few all-night services. Pick up a transport
map from tourist offices or Carris kiosks. A
single ticket costs 1.20. There are three funiculars: Elevador da Bica (Map pp6289),
Elevador da Glria (Map pp6289) and
Elevador do Lavra (Map pp6289), plus a
wonderful 19th-century wrought-iron lift
in the Baixa, Elevador de Santa Justa (Map
pp6289), which takes you nowhere but has
charming views.
GETTING AROUND
METRO
The AeroBus runs every 20 minutes from

7.45am to 8.45pm, taking 30 to 45 minutes
between the airport and Cais do Sodr; buy
your ticket (3) on the bus. A taxi into town
is about 10, plus 1.50 for luggage.
The metro is useful for hops across town

and to the Parque das Naes. Individual
tickets cost 0.70; a caderneta of 10 tickets
is 6.15. A return ticket (all et retour) is
1.25. The metro operates from 6.30am
to 1am.
Bicycle
Taxi
Tejo Bike (Map pp624-5; %218 871 976; Doca Sto

Amaro; per hr from 6), 300m east of Belm,
provides pedal power for rides along the
waterfront.
Lisbons taxis are metered and best hired

from taxi ranks. Beware of rip-offs from
the airport. From the Rossio to Belm is
around 7 and to the castle about 5.50.
Car & Motorcycle
AROUND LISBON
To/From the Airport
On the outskirts of the city there are cheap

(or free) car parks near Parque das Naes
or Belm. The most central underground
car park is at Praa dos Restauradores, costing around 1 an hour. On Saturday afternoons and Sundays parking is normally free
in the pay-and-display areas in the centre.
Public Transport
A 3.70/6.90/13.40 ticket known as the 7
Colinas is good for one/three/five days on
all buses, trams, metros and funiculars.
FERRY
Car, bicycle and passenger ferries leave frequently from the Cais do Sodre ferry terminal
(Map pp6289) to Cacilhas (0.60, 10 minutes), a transfer point for some buses to
Setbal. From Terreiro do Pao terminal
catamarans zip across to Monijo (1.65,
every 30 minutes) and Seixal (1.35, every
30 minutes).
Sintra
pop 20,000
Lord Byron called this hilltop town a glorious Eden and, although best appreciated
at dusk when the coach tours have left, it
is a magnificent place. Less than an hour
west of Lisbon, Sintra is a twinkling tiara of
stunning palaces and manors surrounded
by lush green countryside. The traditional
summer retreat of Portugals kings, Sintra
is hilly, so ladies leave your high heels at
home.
L I S B O N A r o u n d L i s b o n 635
The tourist office (%219 231 157; www.cm-sintra

.pt; Praa da Repblica 23) has a list of accom-
Estrada Velha (%219 234 355; Consiglieri Pedroso 16;

s/d 50/60; a) There are just five meticulously
modation. Check your emails at the Casa

Viola (Rua Dr Alfredo da Costa 4; per hr 2.50) near the
centre.
decorated rooms here with wood-panelling

and wrought-iron beds; the downstairs barrestaurant is excellent for light tasty fare
like sweet and savoury crepes.
Lawrences Hotel (%219 105 500; www.lawrences
BUS, TRAM & FUNICULAR
Santa Apolnia station (%218 816 121) is the

terminus for northern and central Portugal, and for all international services. Cais
do Sodr station is for Belm, Cascais and
Estoril. Note that Rossio station will be
closed until sometime in 2007 due to the
construction of a tunnel. For Sintra, bidos
or Nazar you must now depart from the
Sete Rios train station.
Barreiro station is the terminus for suburbano services to Setbal and for some
southern Portugal destinations, others depart from the better connected Gare do
Oriente; connecting ferries leave frequently
from the Terriro do Pao ferry terminal
(Map pp6289). The northsouth railway
line, over the Ponte de 25 Abril, goes to
suburban areas and will eventually carry on
further to southern Portugal.
For more detailed information on all the
above modes of transport see p657.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Although the whole town resembles an historical theme park there are several compulsory eye-catching sights. Most are free
or discounted with the Lisboa Card (see
p626).
The Palcio Nacional de Sintra (%219 106
840; adult/child 4/2; h10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue) is a
dizzy mix of Moorish and Gothic architecture with twin chimneys that dominate
the town.
The Museu do Brinquedo (%219 242 171; Rua
Visconde de Monserrate; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am6pm Tue-Sun) offers serious playtime potential
with 20,000 toys from all over the world.

An energetic 3km greenery-flanked hike
from the centre, the 8th-century ruined
ramparts of Castelo dos Mouros (%219 237 300;
adult/child 3.50/2; h9am-7pm, to 8pm Jun-Sep) provide fine views. The entrance fee includes
the Monserrate Gardens (see below).
Trudge on a further 20 minutes to the
exuberantly kitsch Palcio da Pena (%219
105 340; adult/child 6/4; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun),
where every room is crammed with fascinating treasures. Alternatively, take bus 434
(3.20) from the station.
Monserrate Gardens (%219 237 116; h9am7pm, to 8pm Jun-Sep) are fabulously lush botanical gardens 4km from town.
En route to the gardens is Quinta da Regaleira (%219 106 650; adult/child 10/5, guided tours
20/10; hto 4pm Mar-May, Oct & Nov, to 3.30pm DecFeb), a magnificent World Heritage site and,
as an early 20th-century neo-Manueline

extravaganza, one of Sintras highlights.
Guided tours must be pre-arranged.
Cabra Montz (%917 446 668; Rua D Mafalda, Belas;
www.cabramontez.com) organises canoeing excursions (from 35).
hotel.com; Rua Consiglieri Pedroso 38-40; s/d 188/245;

pnai) Shift your credit card into
overdrive to stay at one of Iberias oldest

hotels, certainly vintage enough to have
bedded both Lord Byron and William
Beckford.
EATING
Xentra (%219 240 759; Rua Consiglieri Pedroso 2-A;

mains 6) A cavernous bar with canteen-style
meals, rock music on Sunday nights and
karaoke on Mondays.
Tulhas (%219 232 378; Rua Gil Vicente 4-6; mains
7; h closed Wed) This friendly establishment is typically full of happily chomping
locals. The Tulhas menu features comfort
food favourites such as bacalhau topped
with mashed potatoes and cream, and a
vegetarian dish thats not based on eggs or
lettuce.
Caf de Paris (%219 232 375; Praa da Repblica
40; mains 15) Enjoy such lush grub as rucula
salad with cheese, figs and nuts in this sublime 18th-century setting, complete with
nymphette ceiling mural and outside terrace overlooking the main square.
The LisbonSintra railway terminates in

Estefnia, 1.5km northeast of the towns
historic centre. Sintras bus station, and another train station, are a further 1km east in
the new-town Portela de Sintra. Frequent
shuttle buses link the historic centre with
the bus station.
Until Lisbons Rossio station re-opens,
trains run from the Sete Rios station (1.40,
45 minutes). Buses run hourly from Sintra
to Estoril (3.10, 40 minutes) and Cascais
(3.10, 45 minutes).
SLEEPING
Villa Marques (%219 230 027; Rua Sotto Mayor 1;

s/d 50/60, with shared bathroom 35/45) Fabulous
tiled pictures adorn this traditional manor
house with its grand staircase, grandmotherly rooms and an outside terrace that has
views of the duck pond and countryside
beyond.
GETTING AROUND
A taxi to Pena or Monserrate costs around

15 return. Horse-drawn carriages cost 60
return to Monserrate. Old trams run from
Ribeira de Sintra (1.5km from the centre)
to Praia das Maas, 12km to the west, for
1.20.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
634 L I S B O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
THE SPANISH-PORTUGUESE DIVIDE

Years ago, this author taught English at a Seville-based private academy to Spanish teenagers
and adults. Despite being just two hours drive from Portugal, not one student had crossed the
border. They seemed to view the typical Portuguese like some sort of poor relation with a speech
impediment; a xenophobic view that seemed worryingly widespread. In turn, the Portuguese
viewed the Spanish as being insufferably arrogant.
The roots of Portuguese-Spanish animosity dates from 1385 when Portuguese forces successfully defeated the Spanish-led invading forces. The two countries have also colonially clashed
over Latin America.
More recently and more positively, EU membership has led to vastly increased trade between
the two countries and the investment of Spain in Portugal and vice versa. On the ground though,
travellers may well find that most Portuguese still prefer speaking French or English to Spanish
and you still cant buy a bottle of Spanish rioja in the local supermarket here. Or, equally tragically, a pastis de nata (custard tart) in Spain!
Cascais
pop 33,255
Cascais is a handsome seaside resort with

elegant buildings, an atmospheric old town
and a happy abundance of bars and restaurants. The tourist office (%214 868 204; www
.visiteestoril.com; Rua Visconde de Luz 14) has accommodation lists and bus timetables; theres
also a tourist police post (%214 863 929; Rua
Visconde da Luz). You can slurp a soft drink
while checking your emails at Navegue Aqui
(%214 840 150; Sebastio Carvalho e Melo 17; per hr 3;
h10am-midnight Mon-Sat May-Sep, 10am-8pm Mon-Sat
Oct-Apr).
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Estoril is a classy palm-fringed resort 2km

east of Cascais with a superb sandy beach
and Europes largest casino (%214 667 700;
www.casino-estoril.pt, in Portuguese; h 3pm-3am, fl
show 11pm).
Praia Tamariz has an ocean swimming pool.

The sea roars into the coast at Boca do Inferno
(Hells Mouth), 2km west of Cascais. Spectacular Cabo da Roca, Europes westernmost
point, is 16km from Cascais and Sintra and
is served by buses from both towns.
Wild Guincho beach, 3km from Cascais, is
a popular surfing venue.
worth the splurge, this elegant 19th-century

home is tastefully done up with expensive
art and antiques. Enjoy breakfast and birdsong in the pretty garden.
Tanyas Palace (%214 846 332; Sebastio Carvalho
e Melo 15; mains 7) If youre suffering from hotand-spicy withdrawal this place has decent
Indian and Thai dishes to eat in or take
away.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Trains run frequently to Cascais via Estoril

(1.50, 30 minutes) from Cais do Sodr station in Lisbon. Transrent (%214 864 566; www
.transrent.pt; Centro Commercial Cisne, Av Marginal) rents
cars, bicycles and motorcycles.
Setbal
pop 114,500
Unsurprisingly, Portugals third-largest

port is famous for its excellent seafood
restaurants. Aside from the catch of the
day, other draws are a stunning Manueline
church, a castle with views and an easygoing pedestrianised centre packed with
shops and cafs. Pity about the in-your-face
piped music over the city sound system.
INFORMATION
Instituto Portugus da Juventude (IPJ; %265 534

SLEEPING & EATING
Residencial Solar Dom Carlos (%214 828 115; www

.solardomcarlos.com; Rua Latino Coelho 8; s/d with breakfast
50/65; ap) Sparkling clean, well-placed
accommodation efficiently run by Englishspeaking owners.

Casa da Pergola (%214 840 040; www.portugal
virtual.pt/pergola.house; Av Valbom 13; d 104; a) Well
431; Largo Jos Afonso; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has free

internet access for a maximum of 30 minutes.
Municipal tourist office (%/fax 265 534 402; Praa
do Quebedo) Is a five-minute walk east from the bus
station (Av 5 de Outubro).
Regional tourist office (%265 539 130; www.mun
-setubal.pt; Travessa Frei Gaspar 10) With the oddity of a
Roman fish-preserving factory under its glass floor.
Portugals first Manueline building, the

stunning Igreja de Jesus (Praa Miguel Bombarda;
admission free; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat), has
maritime motifs and twisted pillars that
resemble coiled ropes. The Galeria da Pintura
Quinhentista (Rua do Balne Rio Paula Borba; admission
free; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sat), just around
the corner, has a renowned collection of
16th-century paintings.
Good beaches west of town include Praia
da Figuerinha (accessible by bus in summer). Across the estuary at Tria is a more
developed beach, plus the ruins of a Roman
settlement. On the ferry trip across you may
see some of the estuarys 30 or so bottlenosed dolphins.
SAL (%265 227 685; www.sal.pt, in Portuguese)
organises walks from 5 per person. For
jeep safaris, hiking and biking in the Serra
da Arrbida, or canoe trips through the
Reserva Natural do Esturio do Sado, contact Planeta Terra (%265 080 176; www.planeta
terra.pt; Praa General Lus Domingues 9). Vertigem Azul
(%265 238 000; www.vertigemazul.com; Av Lusa Todi
375) offers canoe and dolphin-spotting ex-
cursions. There are free wine-cellar tours of

Jos Maria da Fonseca Succs (%212 198 940; www
.jmf.pt; Rua Jos Augusto Coelho 11; h10am-12.30pm
& 2-5pm Mon-Fri), the oldest Portuguese pro-
ducer of table wine.

SLEEPING
Pousada da Juventude (% 265 534 431; setubal

@movijovem.pt; Largo Jos Afonso; dm/d 10/23) Adequate tidy hostel with a buzzy vibe.
Penso Bom Regresso (%265 229 812; Praa de
Bocage 48; d 45) Overlooks the main square;
about as close to church as you can get
without attending confession. Rooms are
clean but monastically basic.
Residencial Bocage (%265 543 080; fax 265 543
089; Rua So Cristovo 14; s/d 35/46; pa) Fairly
forgettable rooms in a newish building; satellite TV and nearby parking are the major
perks for the price.
Albergaria Solaris (%265 541 770; Praa Marqus
de Pombal 12; s/d 45/50; a) Rooms have all the
standard hotel clobber at this pretty tiled
hotel. Go for a room with a balcony overlooking the action-packed square.
EATING
Peregrina (%265 230 602; Rua dos Almocreves 74;

mains 8) One of three vegetarian restaurants
T H E A L G A R V E Fa r o 637
with a good choice of healthy grub, including quiche, tofu, nut rissoles and salads.
O Beco (%265 524 617; Largo da Misericordia 24;
mains 10) Locals rate this restaurant as one of
the citys best. Enjoy a special seafood moment and choose one of the lobster dishes.
Xica Bia (%265 522 559; Av Luisa Todi 131; mains from
10) Xica Bia has an elegant dinner-for-two
setting with barrel-vault ceiling, exposed
bricks and chandeliers. The menu includes
plenty of thrills, including an exemplary
arroz de marisco (shellfish rice).
Buses leave at least hourly from Lisbons Praa

de Espanha (3.25, one hour). Ferries shuttle across the estuary to Tria approximately
every 45 minutes (1.30, 15 minutes).
THE ALGARVE
The Algarve is holiday-brochure heaven
with superb beaches, sweeping golf courses
and year-round sunshine. Although overdevelopment has blighted parts of the
coast-hugging strip venture inland and
youll land solidly in Portugal again. Algarve highlights include the forested slopes
of Monchique, the fortified village of Silves
and windswept, historic Sagres. Faro is the
regional capital.
FARO
pop 58,000
Faro is an attractive seaside town and

makes a good place from which to explore
the rest of this coastal strip. The centre is a
picturesque jumble of pedestrian shopping
streets, interspersed with pretty plazas and
churches. To avoid the crowds visit out of
season, especially since Brits can fly here
for a no-frills fare. The Resident is an expatoriented, English-language newspaper with
entertainment information. Go online at
Planet Cyber Center (%289 391 974; Ferreira Neto
5; per hr 2.50; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat). The central tourist office (%289 803 604; www.rtalgarve
.pt; Rua da Misericrdia) has informative leaflets
and maps.
Sights & Activities

The palm-clad waterfront around Praa de
Dom Francisco Gomes has pleasant kickback cafs. Faros beach, Praia de Faro (Ilha
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
636 L I S B O N A r o u n d L i s b o n

To
Ourique
(38km)
To Sines
(82km);
Lisbon
(173km)
N266
Praia de
Odeceixe
Almodvar
IC1
N120
N2
Alcoutim
A2-IP1-EO1
N124
So Bartolomeu
de Messines
Pena
Monchique
N124
N266
N268
N120
Carrapateira
N124
Portimo
Silves
N270
Alt
o
ir
Alfambras
Ameixial
e
ld
Ca
Praia da
Bordeira
So Marcos
da Serra
N267 S e r r a d e M o n c
Caldas de
Praia da
Arrifana
do
Aljezur
rr
Salir
Odeleite
Cachopo
To Seville
(146km)
N397
N2
Castro Marim
Barranco do Velho
N396
Tunes
N122
River
Martim
Longo
Se
Foia Monchique
Alferce N267
(902m)
e
Marmelete
iqu
SPAIN
N122
Odeceixe
Rogil
20 km
12 miles
To Beja
(128km)
To Castro
Verde
(32km)
Vila Real de
Santo Antnio
So Brs
A22-IP1-EO1
de Alportel
Ayamonte
Tavira
Cacela Velha
Santa Luzia
Esti
Ilha de Tavira
Loul
N270
Sa Joa
Lagos
Carvoeiro
da Venda
Alvor
Vilamoura
N125 Luz
N125
Armao
Quarteira
Praia do
Moncarapacho
Praia da
de Pra Albufeira
Salema
Fuzeta
Aeroporto
Barril
Praia
N268
Rocha Praia da
de Faro Faro
da Luz
Praia da Vale
Olho
Praia da
Meia Carvoeiro
Falesia do Lobo
Praia do Praia
Ilha de
Cape St Sagres Salema
Pinho
Sagres Praia do
Armona
Vincent
Ilha de Faro
Point Martinhal
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Ilha da
Parque Natural
Barreta
da Ria Formosa
Vila do
Bispo
Lagoa
N125
de Faro), is 6km southwest of the city; take

bus 16 from opposite the bus station. Less
crowded is the unspoilt Ilha Desserta in
the nature park Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
(%917 811 856; www.ilha-deserta.com), where you
can also take a three-hour lagoon tour (20;
h11am & 3pm year-round).
Sleeping & Eating

Avoid midsummer when many of the hotels
are block-booked by tour groups.
Penso Residencial Central (%289 807 291; Largo
Terreiro do Bispo 10; s/d 35/45; a) This has large
bland rooms with floral-and-white dcor.
The main draw is the location, with balconies
overlooking the jacaranda-fringed square.
Residencial Adelaide (%289 802 383; fax 289 826
870; Rua Cruz dos Mestres 7; d 50; a) White and
turquoise is the colour backdrop here, together with the owners art work. Several
rooms have vast terraces; all have fridges.
Residencial Algarve (%289 895 700; www.residen
cialalgarve.com; Rua Infante Dom Henrique 52; s/d 50/60;
ai) Cheerful, bright rooms with all the
necessities, including satellite TV. Breakfast

is served in a pretty internal patio.
Sol e Jardim (%289 820 030; Praa Ferreira de Almeida 22; mains 9) This cavernous restaurant is
a jumble of nets, jolly murals and a parrot
or two. Couscous is a speciality.
O Aldeo (%289 823 339; Largo de S. Pedro; mains
12) Dishes from the Alentejo and Algarve
are prepared with culinary panache at this
elegant restaurant overlooking lovely Igreja
de So Pedro.
Getting There & Away
Faro airport has both domestic and international flights (see p658).
From the bus station, just west of the
centre, there are at least six daily express
coaches to Lisbon (15, four hours), plus
several slower services, and frequent buses
to other coastal towns.
The train station is a few minutes walk
west of the bus station. Five trains run daily
to Lisbon (18.50, five hours).
Getting Around
The airport is 6km from the centre. Buses
14 and 16 run into town until 9pm, costing
1.35 for a single ticket. A taxi costs about
12 from the airport to the town centre.
TAVIRA
pop 12,500
Traditionally-tiled faades and a web of

cobbled streets add to the charm of this
laid-back town. Tavira is famed for its ecclesiastical history and seafood. The tourist
office (%281 322 511; Rua da Galeria 9) can help
with accommodation and the town hall (Praa
da Republica; h9.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) provides free
internet access.
Sights & Activities

One of the towns 30-plus churches, the
Igreja da Misericrdias Renaissance faade is
the most striking in the Algarve. Taviras ruined castle (Rua da Liberdade; admission free; h9am5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) dominates the
town. Nearby, the 16th-century Palcio da

Galeria (%281 320 540; Calada da Galeria; admission 2;
h10am-12pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat) is an informative cultural centre with a rooftop contemporary art gallery and views.
Ilha da Tavira is an island beach connected
to the mainland by a ferry at Quatro guas.
Walk the 2km or take the (summer only)
bus from the bus station.
Enjoy pedal power with a rented bike
from Casa Abilio (%281 323 467; Rua Goao Vaz C Real
23a). For walking or biking trips call Exploratio (%281 321 973). Kitesurfers can bounce
the waves with Escola de Kitesurf (%962 337
285; www.kitesurfeolis.com; Av Da Ria Formosa).
Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Imperial (%281 322 234; Jos Pires Padinha 24; s/d 40/60) A lick of paint has improved
this no-nonsense penso with balconies
and a downstairs restaurant overlooking
the river.
Mars (%281 325 815; Jos Pires Padinha 134; s/d
45/70; a) Enjoy well-dusted, bright rooms
with terracotta tiles, satellite TV and balconies with river views.
Vila Gal Albacora (%281 380 800; www.vilagale
.pt; Quatro guas; d 115) A former tuna-fishing
village metamorphosed into a luxury hotel
complex with health club, Turkish bath
and games room. Prices plummet out of
season.
Patio (%281 323 008; Antnio Cabreira 30; mains 1015; a) Fatten your credit card at the towns
swankiest restaurant dishing up traditional
cuisine like octopus and bean stew.
Aquasul (%281 325 166; Dr Augusto da Silva Carvalho 11; mains 10-14; a) Arty Gaudi-inspired
dcor and organic ingredients. The Italianinspired dishes here include beetroot carpaccio with goats cheese, and pizza.

Some 15 trains and six express buses run
daily between Faro and Tavira (2.45, one
hour).
LAGOS
pop 25,400
In summer the pretty fishing port of Lagos

has a beach party vibe; out of season its
pretty laid back as restaurants and hotels
take a siesta until spring. The municipal
tourist office (%282 764 111; www.lagosdigital.com,
in Portuguese; Largo Marqus de Pombal) is in the
T H E A L G A R V E L a g o s 639
centre of town. Surf a frothy coffee while

emailing at cool Bora Caf (%282 083 438; Conselheiro Joaquim Machado 17; per hr 3; h9.30am-10pm
Mon-Sat).
Sights & Activities

The Museu Municipal (%282 762 301; Rua General
Alberto da Silveira; admission 2; h9.30am-12.30pm &
2-5pm Tue-Sun) houses an eclectic mix of archaeological and ecclesiastical treasures
(and oddities). Admission includes the
adjacent Igreja de Santo Antnio (h9.30am12.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun), one of the best Baroque churches in Portugal.
The beach scene includes Meia Praia, a
vast strip to the east; Praia da Luz to the west;
and the smaller Praia do Pinho.
Blue Ocean (%282 782 718; www.blue-ocean-divers
.de) organises diving, kayaking and snorkelling safaris. On the promenade, fishermen
offer motorboat jaunts to nearby grottoes.
For horse riding contact Quinta Paraiso Alto
(% 282 687 596; www.qpahorseriding.com). Rent
windsurfing gear from Windsurf Point (%282
792 315, www.windsurfpoint.com).
Sleeping
Pousada da Juventude (%282 761 970; Rua Lanarote de Freitas 50; dm/d 16/45; i) Up there with
the best. Rooms are airy and light, plus
theres internet access and a garden with
hammocks.
Rubi Mar (%282 180 678; www.rubi-mar.com; 2nd
fl, Rua de Barroca 70; s/d 45/50, with shared bathroom
30/45) English-American run with pleasant
homey rooms and breezy harbour views.

Owners can also book excursions, car hire
and golf.
Casa de So Gonalo (%282 762 171; Rua Candido
dos Reis 73; s/d 70/90) This fine 18th-century
house endearingly shows its age with plush
rooms and a picturesque garden.
Eating
Restaurante Piri-Piri (%282 763 803; Rua Lima Leito
15; mains 8) A good choice serving a tasty
cataplana (fish stew) and piri-piri chicken
or clams. If youre a fan, pick up a bottle of
the red-chilli wonder from one of the grans
at the market.
Taberna de Lagos (%282 084 250; 25 de Abril;
mains 8) This atmospheric former warehouse
has a menu of pizzas, pastas, salads and
vegetarian dishes. Live music accompanies
Sunday lunch.
PORTUGAL
0
0
THE ALGARVE
a
dian
Gua
PORTUGAL
638 T H E A L G A R V E Ta v i r a
No Patio (%282 76 37 77; Rua Lanarote de Freitas

46; mains 9; hclosed Sun & Mon) Owner Martin
has a serious foodie background in the UK.
This is British nosh at its best: steak-andkidney pie, sticky toffee pudding and lots
more home-sweet-home dishes for poor
deprived Brits.

Bus and train services depart frequently
for other Algarve towns and around eight
times daily to Lisbon (14.50, four hours).
Getting Around
Rent bicycles, mopeds and motorcycles
from Motor Ride (%289 761 720; Rua Jos Afonso
23; per day from 8.50).
MONCHIQUE
pop 6975
The pine-clad flip side to the seagulls and

sand, pretty Monchique is surrounded by
the forested Serra de Monchique. The tourist
office (%282 911 189; Largo dos Chores) overlooks
the park.
Sights & Activities

Igreja Matriz (Rua da Igreja) features a stunning
Manueline portal, with its stone seemingly
tied in knots. Follow the brown pedestrian signs around the old towns narrow
streets.
Caldas de Monchique, 6km south, is a mildly
heritaged yet quaint hot-spring hamlet.
Some 8km west is the Algarves rooftop,
the 902m Fia peak atop the Serra de Monchique, with heady views through a forest
of radio masts.
Omega Parque Monchique (%282 911 327; Caldas de Monchiqe; adult/child 8/5; h10am-6pm) is a
small ecofriendly zoo with animals kept in
as near a natural environment as possible.
Alternativtour (%282 420 800; from 30) organises bike and walking tours.
Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Miradouro Da Serra (%282 912 163;
Rua Combatentes do Ultramar; s/d 35/45) Nothingspecial rooms but location is on a high with
several rooms enjoying stunning views.
Grab number 205 if you can.
Casa Da Nora (%282 91 2 532; Largo 5 de Outubro;
mains 9) The bow-tied waiters at this classy
restaurant in the square dish up delicious
homemade soups, fish and meat dishes.

Sights & Activities
There are eight buses daily from Portimo

(2.75, 45 minutes) to Monchique.
The fort (adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-8.30pm MaySep, 10am-6.30pm Oct-Apr) has a 12-minute slide
show on the history; Henry the Navigator
established his navigation school here and
primed the explorers who later founded the
Portuguese empire.
Visit Europes southwestern-most point,
the Cabo de So Vicente (Cape St Vincent),
6km to the west. A solitary lighthouse
stands on this barren cape.
This coast is ideal for the surfing set; hire
windsurfers at sand-dune fringed Praia do
Martinhal.
The Scubado Diving Centre (%282 624 594;
www.scubado-algarve.com; Porto da Baleeira) organises diving trips daily at 10am and 3pm.
SILVES
pop 10,768
There is nothing self-important about this

pretty town, despite it being the one-time
capital of Moorish Algarve. Take the puffyou-out climb up to the fairy-tale castle
crowning the hill. The tourist office (%289
442 255; Rua 25 de Abril) can help with accommodation. Check your inbox at It-Connect
(%282 083 915; Rua Francisco Pablos 13; per hr 1.50).
Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Ponte Romana (%282 443 275; Horta
da Cruz; s/d 15/30) Floral-themed rooms beside
the Roman bridge, with castle views and a
cavernous bar-restaurant full of old-timers
in flat caps and Portuguese families.
Hotel Colina Dos Mouros (%282 440 420; Sitio do
Pocinho; s/d 70/80; ai) Avoid July and August
and the price here seriously plummets. Sip a
sundowner from your balcony overlooking
the round pool with a castle backdrop.
Caf Ingles (%282 442 585; mains 8.50) Situated
at the castle entrance, this English-owned
funky place has vegetarian dishes, homemade soups, pasta and wood-fired pizza. In
summer theres live music at weekends.
Restaurante Rui (%282 442 682; Rua C Vilarinho
27; mains from 12) Push the boat out and select
your seafood straight from the tank. The
intrepid can enjoy wild boar chops.

Silves train station is 2km from town; trains
from Lagos (1.50, 35 minutes) stop nine
times daily (from Faro, change at Tunes), to
be met by local buses. Eight buses run daily
to Silves from Albufeira (3.30, 40 minutes).
SAGRES
pop 1940
End-of-the-road Sagres was thought to be

the end of the world in pre-Columbus days.
Still today, the town exudes a bleak sort
of drama, the fort perched high above the
thundering surf. There is a central tourist
office (%282 624 873; Rua Comandante Matoso), plus
Turinfo (%282 620 003; Praa da Repblica), which
rents cars and bikes, books hotels, arranges
jeep and fishing trips and even provides
internet access, bless em.
Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Baleeira (%282 624 212; www.sagres.net/balee
ira; Rua Comandante Matoso; s/d 91/121; pas)
A good looking low-rise hotel with direct
beach access, harbour views, tennis courts
and spacious smart rooms.
Mar Vista (%282 624 247; Praia da Mareta; mains
8) Bask in the sea-and-surf views from the
terrace; the Med cuisine here includes pasta
with lobster and eight different salads.

Frequent buses run daily to Sagres from
Lagos (2.50, 50 minutes), with fewer on
Sunday. Three continue out to Cabo de So
Vicente on weekdays.
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
One of Portugals poorest regions, this central slice of the country has an outbackmeets-the-Med feel with its vast plains of
cattle and groves of olive trees and cork
oaks. Richly historic, it is scattered with
prehistoric remains and contains one of the
countrys most architecturally rich towns,
vora, as well as several spectacular walled
villages. There are fine local wines and, for
the more energetic, plenty of hiking and
skiing in the dramatic Beiras region.
VORA
pop 53,755
vora has a lot going for it. Aesthetically,

this city is easy on the eye with its medieval
narrow alleys, juxtaposed with opulent man-
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L v o r a 641
sions and palaces. These old-fashioned good

looks are the backdrop to a lively student
town surrounded by wineries and dramatic
countryside. The tourist office (%266 702 671;
www.cm-evora.pt, in Portuguese; Praa do Giraldo 73) carries an excellent city map. Log on to the
internet at the Cyber Centre (%266 746 923; Rua
dos Mercadores 42; per hr 2.50; h9am-midnight Mon-Fri,
2pm-midnight Sat & Sun).
Sights & Activities

voras cathedral, S (Largo do Marqus de Marialva;
adult/child 3/free; h9am-noon & 2-5pm), has fabulous cloisters and a museum jam-packed
with ecclesiastical treasures.
The Temple of Diana (Largo do Conde de Vila Flor)
was once part of the Roman Forum and is a
heady slice of drama right in town.
Capela dos Ossos (%266 744 307; Largo Conde
de Vila Flor; admission 1; h 9am-1pm & 2.30-6pm)
was discovered in 1958 during restoration

work. Providing a real Addams family day
out, this ghoulish Chapel of Bones is constructed from the bones and skulls of several thousand people.
Turaventur (%266 743 134; www.turaventur.com;
Plaa 1 de Maio) offers a whole range of adrenalinefuelled activities, including canoeing (halfday 60), mountain biking (four hours 35)
and 4WD safari tours (full day 60).
Sleeping
Residencial O Alentejo (%266 702 903; Rua Serpa
Pinto 74; s/d 30/45; na) A deeply traditional
house, complete with original mosaic-tiled
floors and gran on reception; the rooms
here are well-sized and everything works.
This is a good street for bars.
Residencial Diana (%266 702 008; www.residencial
diana.com; Rua Diogo Co 2-3; s/d 35/50; pa )
AUTHORS CHOICE
Penso Policarpo (% 266 702 424; www
.pensaopolicarpo.com; Rua da Freiria de Baixo 16;

s/d 50/55; a) A palatial place for a paltry
price; this historic manor is complete with
Roman columns and part of the original city
wall in the foyer. Located bang in the centre
of town, the rooms are furnished with rustic
Alentejan furniture and are all different; a
couple have traditional tiles, others elaborate bed heads. All are cushy and bright. In
short, a winner.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
640 T H E A L G A R V E M o n c h i q u e
0
0
VORA
oa
Aq
ue
du
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Capela dos Ossos.......................3 B3
S..............................................4 C3
Temple of Diana........................5 C2
Lg do
Cha das
Covas
ct
SLEEPING
Penso Policarpo........................6
Residencial Diana.......................7
Residencial O Alentejo...............8
Solar Monfalim..........................9
nd
ido
Aviz
aria
our
aM
Rd
rno
14
nve
oI
Rd
o
Can
18
17
R do
eis
sR
do
15 16
11
sus
enino Je
R do M
University
Lg de
Vila Flor
To Bus Station
(300m)
P da
Repblica
Jardim
Pblico
Parque
Infantil
Quartel
de Drages
To Train
Station
(700m)
Located on a souvenir-shopping street attracting deep-pocketed tourists, this shiny

comfortable hotel has high-ceilinged rooms
with homely furnishings. Service can be
gruff.
Solar Monfalim (%266 750 000; www.monfalimtur
.pt; Largo da Misericrdia 1; s/d 75/90; pai) This
is an exquisitely renovated 16th-century
noblemans house with an arched gallery
overlooking the cobbles. Rooms are elegant,
stylish and have wi-fi coverage.
Eating
Aqurio (%266 785 055; Rua de Valdevinos 7; mains
6) Vibrant little vegetarian restaurant with
just a few daily choices, including a vegan
option.
Mac
do Estevens
R Men
Hospital
EATING
Aqurio....................................10
11
Botequim da Mouraria..............
Caf Restaurante O Cruz.........12
Pane & Vino.............................13
Quarta-Feira............................14
To Beja
(78km)
compass; this place is well hidden. Run by

friendly Ze Dias and family, enjoy sublime
home cooking here with an emphasis on
game and bacalhau.
Drinking
In Club (%266 706 559; Rua do Escrivo da Cmara 16;
h8pm-1am Mon-Thu, 8pm-3am Fri & Sat) Hits its
stride post-dinner, attracting a mix of suits
and scruffs.
New York (% 266 705 675; Rua do Apstolo 4;
h8pm-2am Mon-Fri, 9pm-3am Sat) An after-hours
hang-out to perfect your morning hangover. Live music.
Pub O Trovador (%266 707 370; Rua da Mostardeira 4) A chilled-out setting attracting a
voguish clientele.
Tou a Ta (Rua do Calvrio 12-14) Packing them
in at weekends, this backstreet club has a
frazzled bar staff and fun-loving vibe.
do
DRINKING
In Club.....................................15
New York.................................16
Pub O Trovador.......................17
T'ou a Ta.................................18
na
rmo
Av Ma re chal Ca
P de
Touros
(Bullring)
de
sco
R Co
R da Repb ica
l
To Bus Station (300m);

Megaliths (16km);
Lisbon (130km)
oeda
R da M
1
dores
rca
Me
os
do
Rd
un
im
Ra
do
R
hede
nde
us
De
Lg Alexandre
Lg do Marqus
Herculano
de Marialva
va
No
19
6
ro
R
b
4
utu
O
de
7
R5
P do
Lg da
13
Giraldo 10
Porta de
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9
2
Lg da
da
Misericrdia
bar
R Miguel Bom
12
a
R Fri
P 1
de Maio
ra
de
to
R Serpa Pin
To Turaventur
(8km)
Ser
o
R Jo
C3
B3
A3
C3
da
INFORMATION
Cyber Centre..............................1 B3
Tourist Office.............................2 B3
Lisb
de
Av
To Estremoz
(46km)
200 m
0.1 miles
Va
la
To Bike Lab
(500m)
R de
PORTUGAL
B3
B2
B3
C3
B2
A2
A2
B2
A2
TRANSPORT
Policarpo..................................19 B3
Caf Restaurant O Cruz (%266 747 228; Praa

1 de Maio 20; mains 6) Earthy and inexpensive
for scoffing plain, filling fare like pork with
clams. Outside tables overlook the magnificent San Francisco church.
Pane & Vino (%266 746 960; Pteo do Salema 22;
mains 7) Sunny colours, cheery staff and a
vast menu including thin-crust pizzas, generous salad bar and creamy tiramisu.
Botequim da Mouraria (%266 746 775; Rua da
Mouraria 16a; mains 8; hclosed Sun) A real insiders place; there are just a dozen bar stools
and a nightly set menu of creations by master chef-cum-barman-cum-owner. Get here
early to grab a pew.
Quarta-Feira (%266 707 530; Rua do Inverno 16;
mains 12; hclosed Sun) Arm yourself with a
vora has six buses to Lisbon (9.80, 1

hours) Monday to Friday and two to Faro
(11.80, four hours), departing from the
station off Av Tlio Espanca (700m southwest of the centre). Three daily trains run
from Lisbon (8.15, 2 hours).
Getting Around
Bike Lab (%266 735 500; Centro Comercial da Vista
Alegre, Lote 14; hsummer only) rents out bicycles.
Policarpo (%266 746 970; www.policarpo-viagens.pt,
in Portuguese; Rua 5 de Outubro 63) organises city
tours and jaunts to megaliths and other
nearby attractions.
MONSARAZ
pop 977
In a dizzy setting, high above the plain, this

walled village has a moody medieval feel
and magnificent views. The tourist office
(%266 557 136; Praa Dom Nuno lvares) can advise
on accommodation. Eat before 8pm as the
town tucks up early to bed.
Museu de Arte Sacra (Plaa Dom Nuno lvares;
admission 1; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm) has a good
display of religious artefacts; the 15thcentury fresco is quite superb. Three kilometres north of town is Menhir of Outeiro,
one of the tallest megalithic monuments
ever discovered.
Up to four daily buses run to/from
Reguengos de Monsaraz (2.15, 35 minutes), with connections to vora.
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L M o n s a r a z 643
ESTREMOZ
pop 15,400
One of three marble towns in these parts,

Estremoz is like an aging grande dame with
a face-lift: cosmetically shiny and bright but
underneath slightly fading and out of touch
with the times. In its prime, the town was
one of the most strongly fortified in Portugal
with its very own palace (now a luxurious
pousada; upmarket inn). The tourist office
(%268 333 541; www.cm-estremoz.pt, in Portuguese;
Largo da Repblica 26) is just south of Rossio.
Sights
Museu Municipal (%268 339 200; Largo D Dinis;
adult/child 1.10/free; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm TueSun), in a beautiful 17th-century almshouse,
specialises in fascinating pottery figurines,
including an entire Easter parade.
Vila Viosa, another marble town 17km
from Estremoz, is centred around the Palcio Ducal (%268 980 659; Terreiro do Paa; adult/child
5/free, armoury museum extra 2.50; h9am-1pm &
3-5.30pm Tue-Sun), the magnificent ancestral
home of the dukes of Bragana. Its rich

with azulejos, frescoed ceilings and elaborate tapestries.
Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Carvalho (%268 339 370; Largo da Repblica
27; s/d 20/40) Next to the tourist office, rooms
are well-dusted and spacious with newlytiled bedrooms. Larger rooms cost more.
Caf Alentejano (%268 337 300; Rossio 13-15; s/d
25/40) Just a few rooms next to the restaurant, so expect culinary wafts. The space is
tight but smart with front views overlooking the towns main square.
Adega do Isaas (%268 322 318; Rua Almeida 21;
mains 6.50-8) Huge wooden vats of wine cosyin on the dining room. Expect a good grilling; this place specialises in steaks.

Estremoz is linked to vora by four local
buses (3.50, 1 hours) and two expressos
(6.75, 45 minutes), Monday to Saturday.
CASTELO DE VIDE & MARVO

pop 4145
A worthy detour north of Estremoz, is the

hilltop spa town Castelo de Vide, noted for
its picturesque houses with Gothic doorways. Highlights are the Judiaria (Old Jewish
Quarter), the medieval backstreets and (yet
PORTUGAL
642 C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L v o r a
another) castle-top view. Try to spend a

night here heading skywards to Marvo, a
fabulous mountain-top walled village (population 190) 12km from Castelo de Vide.
The tourist offices (Castelo de Vide %245 901 361; Rua
de Bartolomeu lvares da Santa 81; Marvo %245 993 886;
Largo de Santa Maria) can help with beds.
On weekdays three buses run from Portalegre to Castelo de Vide (4.80, 20 minutes)
and two to Marvo (2.65, 45 minutes).
BIDOS
pop 10,809
This exquisite walled village was a wedding

gift from Dom Dinis to his wife Dona Isabel
(beats a fondue set) and is over-heritaged,
but still well worth a visit. Highlights include the Igreja de Santa Maria (Rua Direita), with
fine azulejos, and views from the town walls.
The tourist office (%262 959 231; www.cm-obidos.pt,
in Portuguese; Rua Direita) has a brochure of walks
in the area and can advise on accommodation. Check your email for free at Net (%262

the tourists into buying their wares handy

for impressive pics to wow the folks back
home. The tourist office (%262 561 194) is at
the end of Av da Repblica.
Sights & Activities

The beaches are superb, although swimmers
should be aware of dangerous currents.
Climb or take the funicular to the cliff-top
Stio, with its cluster of fishermans cottages
and great view.
Two of Portugals big-time architectural
masterpieces are close by. Follow the signs
to Alcobaa where, right in the centre of
town, is the immense Mosteiro de Santa Maria
de Alcobaa (%262 505 120; adult/child 4.50/2.25,
church admission free; h 9am-7pm, to 5pm winter)
dating from 1178; dont miss the colossal

former kitchen.
Batalhas massive Gothic Mosteiro de Santa
Maria de Vitria (%244 765 497; admission to cloisters
& unfinished chapels adult/child 3.50/2; h9am-6pm, to
5pm winter), dating from 1388, is home to the
955 561; Rua Direita 107; h10am-10pm May-Sep, 10am9pm Mon-Fri & 11.30am-6.30pm Sat-Sun Oct-Apr).
tomb of Henry the Navigator.
Sleeping & Eating
Theres a direct bus Monday to Friday from

Lisbon (6, one hour, every 10 minutes) or
via Caldas da Rainha, 10 minutes away.
Many townspeople rent out rooms; doubles

start from 35. Check at the tourist office.
Ribamar (% 262 551 158; fax 262 562 224; Rua
Gomes Freire 9; s/d 30/45; a) Sporting a sunny
yellow-and-white frontage a frisbee throw
from the beach, this 25-room hotel has
sea-view balconies and spacious bijou
rooms.
Mar Bravo (%262 569 169; www.marbravo.com; Praa
Sousa Oliveira 71; s/d 80/100; a) A deluxe stay
with tastefully furnished, carpeted rooms,
sea views and a classy seafood restaurant
complete with a select your lobster from
the tank option.
Casa Marques (%262 551 680; Rua Gil Vicente 37;
mains 5) Stout fishermens wives dish up
tasty seafood dishes. There are also kebab
and pizza takeaways on the same street
fussy families take note.
Ala-Riba (%262 553 516; Rua Adrio Batalha 45;
mains 9) Owner Joss spell in Canada equals
surf-and-turf on the menu, plus lobster, cataplana in a breezy blue-and-white interior.
NAZAR
pop 16,000
The nearest train station, 6km away at Valado, is connected to Nazar by frequent
buses. Nazar has numerous bus connections to Lisbon (7.50, two hours).
Casa dos Castros (%262 959 328; Direita 83-85; d 35)

Bargain price for these homey large rooms
right on the main street.
Casa do Poo (%262 959 358; Travessa da Mouraria; d 60; a) Pin-drop quiet with flagstone
floors, blue tiles and courtyard setting, this
hotel has a fabulous location down a wiggly
flower-flanked side street.
O Ptio do Lidador (Rua Direita 15; mains 8) Theres
a good varied menu at his rustic-styled restaurant with a pasta and salad choice, as
well as the fish and meat stalwarts.
Restaurante Alcaide (%262 959 220; Rua Direita
60; mains 11) A classy place with countryside
views and a menu of masterfully combined
dishes like codfish with cheese, chestnuts
and apple.
Nazar is a seagulls-and-sand resort with

excellent seafood and a sweeping sandy
beach. The locals wear national dress to lure
Sleeping & Eating
TOMAR
pop 17,000
A charming town straddling a river, Tomar

has the storybook notoriety of being home
to the Knights Templar; check out their
headquarters, the outstanding Convento de
Cristo (%249 313 481; adult/child 4.50/2; h9am6.30pm Jun-Sep, 9am-5.30pm Oct-May) monastery.
Other rarities include a magnificent 17thcentury Aqueduto de Peges (aqueduct) and
a vegetarian restaurant. The town is backed
by the dense greenery of the Mata Nacional
dos Sete Montes (Seven Hills National Forest). Tomars tourist office (%249 329 000; www.
rttemplarios.pt, in Portuguese; Serpa Pinto) can provide
town and forest maps.
Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Unio (%249 323 161; Rua Serpa Pinto
94; s/d 25/40) Situated within a reasonable
baggage-lug from the main car park, this
gracious older home has dark wood furnishings, creaky floorboards and old-fashioned
bathrooms.
Estalagem de Santa Iria (%249 313 326; Moucho
Parque; s/d 65/85; pa) Boutique hotel with
just 13 large sunny rooms with balconies
overlooking the park and river beyond. The
restaurant is elegant and good.
Gaia (%249 311 109; Rua dos Monhos 75; mains
6; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) A vegetarian
restaurant with just a few tables and daily
dishes that can include seitan (wheat gluten) stew, tofu lasagne or meatless feijada
(Brazilian bean stew).
Bela Vista (%249 312 870; Rua Fonte do Choupo
6; mains 8) The towns best-known restaurant, in a riverside setting, serving dishes
like roast kid (baby goat, that is) with real
gastro-flair.

There are at least four express buses daily
to Lisbon (6.50, two hours) and even more
frequent trains (6.80, two hours).
COIMBRA
pop 150,000
Coimbra is a dynamic, fashionable, yet

comfortably lived-in city, with a student
life centred on the magnificent 13thcentury university. Aesthetically eclectic,
there are elegant shopping streets, ancient
stone walls and backstreet alleys with hidden tascas and fado bars. Coimbra was the
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L T o m a r 645
birth and burial place of Portugals first

king; and the countrys most important city
when the Moors captured Lisbon.
Information
Esp@o Internet (Praa 8 de Maio; h10am-8pm
Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun) Free wi-fi and internet access
for 30 minutes.
Municipal tourist office (%239 832 591; Praa Dom
Dinis)
Regional tourist office (%239 488 120; www
.turismo-centro.pt; Largo da Portagem) Has pamphlets and
cultural events information.
Tourist office (%239 833 202; Praa da Repblica)
Sights & Activities

Igreja de Santa Cruz (%239 822 941; Praa 8 de Maio;
adult/child 2.50/1.50; h9am-noon & 2-5pm) has a
fabulous ornate pulpit and medieval royal
tombs. Located at the bottom of the hill
in the old town, you can reach the monastery via the elevator (one way 1.60) by
the market.
University Velha (%239 822 941; www.uc.pt/sri;
admission 4; h10am-noon & 2-5pm) is unmissable
in its grandeur. You can visit the library
with its gorgeous book-lined hallways and
the Manueline chapel dating back to 1517.
Conimbriga, 16km south of Coimbra, is the
site of the well-preserved ruins of a Roman
town (h9am-8pm mid-Marmid-Sep, 10am-6pm midSepmid-Mar), including mosaic floors, baths
and fountains. Theres a good museum (adult/
child 3/free; h9am-8pm summer, 10am-6pm winter)
here with restaurant. Frequent buses run to

Condeixa, 2km from the site; direct buses
depart at 9.05am and 9.35am (only 9.35am
at weekends) from the AVIC terminal (Rua Joo
de Ruo 18, Coimbra) returning at 1pm and 6pm
(only 6pm at weekends).
Odabarca (%239 912 444; Parque Dr Manuel Braga;
trips 8) run river trips on the Rio Mondego.
Several companies rent canoes and kayaks, including Down Stream (%966 087 358;
www.down-stream.net; Quintais de Cima; from 18), the
tourist office can provide you with a list. A
free minibus takes you to Penacova for the
25km river journey.
Festivals & Events

Coimbras annual highlight is Queima das
Fitas, a boozy week of fado and revelry that
begins on the first Thursday in May when
students celebrate the end of the academic
year.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
644 C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L b i d o s
THE FTIMA FAITHFULS

If you want to channel Dylan and buy one of the souvenir flesh-coloured Christs that glow in the
dark then check out Ftima, located in between Leiria and Tomar, and one of the largest religious
shrines in Mediterranean Europe. Aside from gawping at the kitsch religious souvenirs, the place
itself is pretty extraordinary with its dazzling white basilica fronted by a vast concrete forecourt.
Suspiciously reminiscent of an airport runway, this was built to hold more than a million devotees
and is essential during the annual pilgrimages on 1213 May and 1213 October when pilgrims
arrive from all over the country, some walking barefoot or on padded knees in penance.
The story behind Ftima dates back to 13 May 1917, when the Virgin appeared to three children on top of a tree. The Virgin promised to return on the 13th of each month for the next five
months, and amid much scepticism (yet each time accompanied by increasingly larger crowds)
the three children reported successive apparitions. The word spread and by the final appearance
on 13 October some 70,000 devotees had gathered and witnessed the so-called Miracle of the
Sun. According to eyewitnesses, there were shooting beams of multicoloured light, and the sun
intensified to a blinding swirling ball of fire. Disabilities and illnesses were miraculously cured:
the blind could see, the dumb could talk and the crippled could walk (get the picture?).
Three secrets of Ftima were also revealed to the children. The first foretold WWII and the
spread of atheism. The second message was more prophetic concerning Russia and the spread
of communism. The third secret was revealed in May 2000 by the Vatican, apparently predicting
the attempt on the life of Pope John Paul II in 1981.
The exact site where the Virgin appeared is now a small chapel, always packed with devotees
offering flowers and lighting candles. Seven masses are held here daily, including two in English;
check the information booth for details. The basilica is surrounded by hotels, souvenir shops and
a park with picnic tables for those coach-loads of Portuguese families.
Whatever your religious convictions, Ftima is an extraordinary place and well worth the detour
if you have a couple of hours to spare.
Sleeping
Penso Santa Cruz (%239 826 197; Praa 8 de Maio; s/
d 25/32) Think threadbare large rooms in an
old building in a great position overlooking
one of the citys most dynamic squares.
Penso Residencial Larbelo (%239 829 092; fax
239 829 094; Largo da Portagem 33; s/d/t 25/40/55; a)
Well-polished, if dated, rooms with lacy

curtains and views of chairs on the square;
perfect for that bica break.
Residncia Coimbra (%239 837 996; www.residencia
coimbra.com; Rua das Azeiteiras 55; s/d/t 25/40/55;
ai) Glossy stylish rooms with satellite
TV and fridges. Theres wi-fi in the breakfast room and lobby.

Penso Flr de Coimbra (%239 823 865; fax 239
821 545; Rua do Poo 5; s/d from 40/45) Enjoy lashings of white linen and fin de sicle atmosphere at this renovated family home. The
rooms are large and atmospheric with high
ceilings and antiques. There is a small restaurant attached with a menu that includes
a daily vegetarian dish.
Casa Pombal Guesthouse (%239 835 175; www
.casapombal.com, in Portuguese; Rua das Flores 18; d 48,
with shared bathroom 40) This place is a gem
with pretty rooms painted in pastel colours

and roof-top views. Dutch owner Elsas
breakfast is more generous than most.
Hotel Astria (% 239 853 020; www.almeida
hotels.com; Av Emdio Navarro 21; s/d 84/101; ai)
A slightly-scuffed older hotel with an air of

all-round poshness, especially in the grand
sitting room with its chandeliers and burgundy sofas. Theres wi-fi in the lobby.
Eating & Drinking

Head to the lanes west of Praa do Comrcio, especially Rua das Azeiteiras, for cheap
eats.
Caf Santa Cruz (%239 833 617; Praca Maio)
Former chapel that has been resurrected
into one of Portugals most atmospheric
cafs.
Restaurante Jardim da Manga (%239 829 156;
Rua Olmpio Nicolau Rui Fernanda; mains 7; hclosed Sat)
A better breed of self-service restaurant at

the back of the dramatic cupula and fountain of the Mosteiro de Santa Cruz. Vegetarian dishes available.
O Estudante (%239 832 699; Rua da Sota 44-48;
mains 7.50) Black-and-white photos of his-
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L Lu s o & T h e B u a c o F o re s t 647
toric Coimbra line the walls at this nononsense eatery with its tasty specials including a memorable arroz de pato (duck
with rice).
Z Manel (%239 823 790; Beco do Forno 12; mains
7-10) Great food, huge servings and a zany
atmosphere with walls papered with diners
comments, cartoons and poems. Vegetarian
choices.
Italia (%239 838 863; Parque Dr Manuel Braga; mains
8-10) Expand your midriff at this excellent
Italian restaurant on the riverfront with
laden dishes of excellent pizza and pasta.
Entertainment
Coimbra-style fado is more cerebral than
the Lisbon variety, and its adherents
staunchly protective. Bar Diligncia (%239
827 667; Rua Nova 30; h6pm-2am) and Bomia Bar
(%239 834 547; Rua do Cabido 6; h8pm-2am) are
popular casas de fado.
Capella (%239 833 985; Capela de Nossa Senhora
de Victora, Rua Corpo de Deus, Largo da Victora) Housed
in a fabulous 14th-century former chapel
with a nightly fado show at 9.30pm (5).
Quebra Club (%239 836 038; Parque Verde do Mondego) Has live jazz at weekends.
Via Latina (%239 833 034; Rua Almeida Garrett 1)
Fires up to a steamy dance pit late at night.

At least a dozen buses and as many trains
run daily from Lisbon (9.60, 2 hours)
and Porto (9, 1 hours), plus frequent
express buses from Faro and vora, via
Lisbon. The main long-distance train stations are Coimbra B, 2km northwest of the
centre, and central Coimbra A. Most longdistance trains call at both. Other useful
connections include eight daily buses to
Luso/Buaco (from Coimbra A; 2.55, 45
minutes).
LUSO & THE BUACO FOREST

pop 2000
This region is oh-so-pretty with its dense

forest of century-old trees surrounded by
countryside dappled with heather, wildflowers and leafy ferns. Theres even a
palace here; a wedding-cake affair, which
somehow works. Buaco was chosen as a retreat by 16th-century monks and surrounds
the lovely spa town of Luso.
The tourist office (%/fax 231 939 133; Av Emdio
Navarro) has maps and leaflets about the for-
est and trails, as well as free internet access.

The Termas (thermal baths; %231 937 910; Av Emdio
Navarro; admission free; hMay-Oct) offers a range
of treatments.
Sleeping & Eating

The Luso tourist office has a list of beds.
Astria (%231 939 182; Av Emdio Navarro; s/d
30/35) Like that favourite woolly, this place
is well worn but snug. Theres dark wood
and beams, and the location is ace if youre
taking a dip in the baths.
Palace Hotel do Buaco (%231 930 101; www
.almeidahotels.com; s/d from 145/185; pa) Live
a real-life fairy tale and stay at this truly
sumptuous pile complete with gargoyles,
ornamental garden and turrets. The equally
elegant restaurant offers set menus for
around 40.
Restaurante O Cesteiro (%231 939 360; EN 234;
mains 7) A large dining room with extensive
menu of confident traditional dishes. The
grilled chicken is a winner.

There are three buses daily Monday to Friday, two on Saturday and one on Sunday
from Coimbra (2.50, 50 minutes). There is
just one train that departs around 10.30am
from Coimbra B (1.30, 30 minutes).
SERRA DA ESTRELA
The forested Serra da Estrela has a raw
natural beauty and offers some of the countrys best hiking. This is Portugals highest
mainland mountain range (1993m), and
the source of its two great rivers: Mondego
River and Zzere River. The main park office
(%275 980 060; www.rt-serradaestrela.pt; Manteigas)
has plenty of information on the Parque

Natural da Serra da Estrela; additional offices are at Seia, Gouveia and Guarda.
The park publishes Discover the Region of
the Serra da Estrela, a walking guide in English with maps and narratives (4.25), plus a
topographic map of the park (6.60).
Sleeping
Pousada da Juventude (%/fax 275 335 375; penhas
@movijem.pt; Penhas da Sade; dm/d from 10/25) Located 10km above Covilh, this is an excellent hostel and good excursion base,
providing meals or kitchen facilities. Buses
come from Covilh (1.25, twice daily, July
to September only), or a taxi costs 12.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
646 C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L T o m a r
No buses cross the park, although you can

go around it. At least two buses link Seia,
Gouveia and Guarda daily, and considerably
more run between Guarda and Covilh.
PORTO
INTERNET ACCESS
Portweb (%222 005 922; Praa General Humberto

Delgado 291; per hr 2.50; h10-2am Mon-Sat, 3pm2am Sun) Great ambience at this basement cyber caf.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Santo Antnio Hospital (%222 077 500; Largo Prof

Abel Salazar) Has English-speaking staff.
THE NORTH
MONEY
The countrys northern region is countrybumpkin heaven with its rolling landscape
interspersed with dense forests and dramatic mountains. This region is also gluttony for wine-lovers: its the home of the
sprightly vinho verde wine, while its capital
Porto is named after another tipple and
is a beguiling combo of the medieval and
modern. Smaller towns similarly have a real
now-and-then feel including magnificent
Braga, the countrys religious heart, and the
folkloric capital of Viana do Castelo.
.com; Rua Alferes Malheiro 96) Doubles as an Amex
representative.
Portocmbios (Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 193)

Top Atlntico (%222 074 020; trinidade@topatlantico
POST
Main post office (Praa General Humberto Delgado)
Across from the main tourist office.
TELEPHONE
Telephone office (Praa da Liberdade 62) Where faxes
can be sent.
TOURIST INFORMATION
ICEP tourist office (%222 057 514; fax 222 053 212;
pop 300,000
Municipal tourist office (%223 393 472; www

Praa Dom Joo I 43) The national tourist office.
Portugals second-largest city, Porto has a

real foreign feel with a gritty old quarter
and steep streets lined with lofty, strungwith-washing houses. A lively city with
chatter in the air and a tangible sense of
history, Portos old-world river-frontage
district is a World Heritage Site. Across the
water twinkle the neon signs of Vila Nova
de Gaia, the headquarters of the major port
manufacturers. Tipple aside, Porto is home
to medieval churches, a clutch of museums and countless eateries and cafs. The
city has recently taken a giant stride into
.portoturismo.pt; Rua Clube dos Fenianos 25) Next door to
the tourist police office.
Tourist office (%222 009 770; Rua Infante
DomHenrique 63) Smaller city tourist office.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Montes dAventura (%228 305 157; Alameda Dr
Antonio Macedo 19; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm

Sat) Organises walking, cycling and canoeing trips.
Trilhos (%/fax 225 020 740; www.trilhos.pt, in
Portuguese; Rua de Belm 94; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri,
10am-1pm Sat) Another option for canoe and hydrospeed
excursions.
Lob
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27
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42
9
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33
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39
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Ponte de
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37 P da
Lisbon (320km)
Ribeira Dom Lus I
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INFORMATION
SLEEPING
American Express...................(see 10)
Hotel Infante de Sagres............16
1
ICEP Tourist Office..................... E3
Hotel International...................17
Rd
18
Main Post Office....................... 2 D2
Penso Astora..........................
oP
edr
Municipal Tourist Office............3 D2
Penso Chique.........................19
oC
ruz
Netherlands Embassy.................4 D4
Penso Duas Naes................20
Ro
Portocmbios.............................5 D3 R Penso Estoril...........................21
22
Portweb.....................................6 D2
Penso Mira Norte....................
R Campo Alegre
Penso Po de Aucar..............23
Santo Antnio Hospital..............7 C3
e
Spanish Embassy........................8 E2
Penso Paulista........................24
dad
Pie
Telephone Office....................... 9 D3 R daPenso Porto Rico....................25
Top Atlntico........................... 10 D2
Penso S Marino....................26
27
Tourist Office.......................... 11 D4
Penso Santa Luzia...................
Pestana Porto Carlton..............28
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Residencial Dos Aliados............29
30
Museu do Vinho......................12 B3
Residencial Girassol...................
S............................................ 13 D4
Soares dos Reis National
Quintas
Museum..............................14 C3
RD
om
Torre dos Clrigos....................15 D3
Ma
Lg de
Ferreira
Lapa
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En
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Sil
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Contempornea (2.3km)
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Jud
R Arnaldo
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R Santos Pousada
R Anselmo Braa
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SHOPPING
s
Casa Janurio...........................48
Freita
es de
Av Rodrigu
Casa Oriental...........................49
CRAT...................................... 50
Garrafeira do Carmo................51
Via Catarina Shopping Centre..52
has
TRANSPORT
AV Minho..............................(see 55)
Alameda
Carlos Soares.........................(see 55)
das
Fontainhas
Funicular..................................53 E4
54
Rede Expressos Bus Station....... E3
REDM......................................55 D1
Renex Tickets and Buses..........56 D3
STCP Kiosk.............................. 57 D3
STCP Kiosk...............................58 A1
STCP Kiosk............................(see 32)
Tram Terminus........................ 59 D4
a
org
E2
D3
D4
C3
E2
ENTERTAINMENT
Academia................................ 43
Bar Duque Piano Bar................44
Club Mau-Mau........................45
Mar Alta................................46
Mexcal.....................................47
do
D4
D4
B3
A3
B3
DRINKING
La Maison des Porto................40 D4
Ryan's Irish Pub.......................41 D4
Solar do Vinho do Porto...........42 B3
E1
E2
D3
E3
D4
D4
D4
D3
D4
400 m
0.2 miles
EATING
31
Alfarroba..................................
32
Bolho Market..........................
Caf Ancra Douro..................33
Caf Majestic...........................34
Casa Mariazinha...................... 35
Cozzza Rio.............................. 36
O Muro................................... 37
Restaurante Romo.................38
Simbiose.................................. 39
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Av Vim
R dos
Moinhos
eres
PORTUGAL
PORTO
Information
Getting Around
Porto centre is small enough to cover
mainly by foot. The city clings to the north
bank of the Douro River, spanned by five
bridges across from Vila Nova de Gaia,
home to the port-wine lodges. Central Portos axis is Av dos Aliados. The picturesque
Ribeira district lies along the waterfront,
in the shadow of the great Ponte de Dom
Lus I bridge.
Alam
Orientation
midrange choice with gleaming rooms and

an ultramodern interior with interconnecting walkways and glass lifts.
Several buses run daily from Coimbra

along the parks perimeter to Seia, Gouveia,
Guarda or Covilh. Others go via Covilh
(4, 45 minutes) to Castel Branco (7.50,
1 hours) and Lisbon, and several times
daily to Viseu (6.20, 1 hours), Porto and
Coimbra.
The twice-daily IC Line 110 train links
Lisbon and Coimbra to Guarda (12.80,
4 hours).
E
the 21st century with the construction of a

metro system.
R da Lapa
PORTUGAL
Residencial Santos (%271 205 400, Rua Tenente

14, Guarda; d/45; a) This place is a pleasing
R da Boav
648 T H E N O R T H P o r t o
T H E N O R T H P o r t o 649
Sights
Head for the river-front Ribeira district for
an atmospheric stroll around, checking out
the gritty local bars, superb restaurants and
river cruises.
Torre dos Clrigos (Rua dos Clrigos; admission 1.50;
h10am-noon & 2-5pm) is atop 225 steep steps
but rewards those who make it to the top
with the best panorama of the city.
Dominating Porto is the S (%222 059
028; Terreiro da S; cloisters 2; h9am-12.15pm & 2.306pm Apr-Oct, to 5.15pm rest of year, closed Sun morning).
The cathedral is worth a visit for its mixture of architectural styles and vast ornate
interior.
West of the city is the Museu de Arte Contempornea (%226 156 500; www.serralves.pt, in
Portuguese; Rua Dom Joo de Castro 210; admission 5;
h 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep,
10am-7pm Oct-Mar), enclosed by pretty gardens

Penso Santa Luzia (%222 001 119; Rua da Alegria;

s/d 20/25; a) A tramp from the centre but a
bargain, these pleasant, spotless rooms are
run by an elderly senhora who is still charging escuda-era rates.
Penso Astria (%222 008 175; Rua Arnaldo Gama
56; d 35) Set in an evocative location hugging the ancient city walls high above the
river, this hostal has elegant old doubles.
Approach via the steep steps (or funicular)
from the river front.
Pousada da Juventude (% 226 177 257;
Penso Mira Norte (%222 001 118; Rua de Santa
Residencial Girassol (%222 001 891; Rua de S da

Bandeira 133; s/d 35/45) Well-named for its
sunflower theme, which includes umpteen
prints and plastic flowers. Front rooms are
small but comfortable and overlook an enticing pastelaria window.
Penso Chique (%222 009 011; Av dos Aliados
206; s/d 35/45) Smiley owner and refurbished
rooms with carpeting and pale paint work.
The bathrooms are old fashioned but everything works.
Penso Paulista (%222 054 692; Av dos Aliados
214; s/d 35/45; a) Small shiny-wood rooms
with balconies overlooking a tree-lined avenue crowned by the majestic city hall.
Penso S Marino (%223 325 499; Praa Carlos
Alberto 59; s/d 38/45) Tiled dolls house of a
building overlooking the square with the
airport bus stop outside. Carpeted rooms
are decorated with feminine flair.
Residencial Dos Aliados (%222 004 853; www
.osborne.es; admission free).
Festivals & Events

Portos big festivals are the Festa de So Joo
(St Johns Festival), from 16 to 24 June, and
the international film festival, Fantasporto,
in February. Also worth catching are the
Celtic music festival in April/May and the rock
festival in August.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Penso Duas Naes (% 222 081 616; www.duas

nacoes.com.pt; Praa Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 59; s/d/t
from 13.50/21.50/24; i) A backpackers favourite with walls washed in bright primary colours and comfortable clean rooms.
Upbeat Art Nouveau dcor with Escherinspired spiral staircase. Go for the top
floor with rooms opening onto the palmfringed terrace.
Pestana Porto Carlton (%223 402 300; www
service in a gorgeous 16th-century setting. Rooms have city or river views and
sleek glossy furnishings with all the extras.
Theres wi-fi in the lobby.
Hotel Infante de Sagres (%223 398 500; www.hotel
museuvinhoporto@cm-porto.pt; Rua de Monchique 45-52;

admission 2; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun) traces the his-
sculpture masterpieces from the 19th- and

20th-centuries. Catch bus 78 from Praa da
Liberdade.
Many of the port-wine lodges in Vila
Nova de Gaia offer daily tours and tastings,
including Croft (%223 772 965; www.croftport.com;
admission free) and Osborne (%223 757 517; www
Penso Po de Aucar (%222 002 425; Rua do Almada

262; www.residencialpaodeacucar.com; d/75; pa)
of the centre. Reservations are essential.

Take bus 35 from Praa da Liberdade.
Also recommended:
Penso Porto Rico (%223 394 690; Rua do Almada
237; d 30; a)
MIDRANGE
.residencialaliados.com; Rua Elisio de Melo 27; s/d 40/65;

ai) Wedding-cake of a building in a
superb location, the rooms have a homey

spare-room feel, with antiques, rugs and
black-and-white tiled bathrooms.
Hotel International (%222 005 032; www.hi-porto
.com; Rua do Almada 131; s/d 55/70; a) This historic
hotel has been given an upbeat revamp with
warm-ochre paintwork, modern sculptures
and artwork, and carpeted elegant rooms.
Theres wi-fi in the lobby.
T H E N O R T H P o r t o 651
restaurant (yes, that is how it is spelt) with

its lunchtime menu of tapas and more traditional night-time fare, including octopusstudded rice.
TOP END
.pestana.com; Praa da Ribeira 1; s/d from 131/147;

pnai) Here youll find red-carpet
Catarina 969; d 30)
770; Rua Dom Manuel II 44; admission 3; h10am-6pm

Wed-Sun) exhibits Portuguese painting and
Also recommended is Penso Estoril

(%222 002 751; fax 222 082 468; Rua de Cedofeita 193;
d 45; a).
porto@movijovem.pt; Rua Paulo da Gama 551; dm/d 18/42;

i) A tastefully spruced-up hostel 4km west
and with works by contemporary Portuguese artists.

Museu do Vinho (Wine Museum; %222 076 300;
tory of wine and port making with an informative short film, models and exhibits.
Tastings available.
Soares dos Reis National Museum (%223 393
infantesagres.pt; Praa D Filipa de Lencastre 62; s/d

160/175; pai) A luxurious pile featur-
ing stained glass, chandeliers, carved wood

ceilings and a central patio with fountain
and palms. The rooms here are all different and are decorated with impeccable taste
and flair.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
O Muro (%222 083 426; Muro dos Bacalhoeiros 88; mains

7; hclosed Mon) Top-notch, well-priced restaurant on the river with delicious, filling
food, including several vegetarian choices.
Delightfully wacky dcor ranges from dried
bacalhau to a Che Guevara poster.
Restaurante Romo (%222 005 639; Praa Carlos
Alberto 100; mains 7.50) Small check-tablecloth
place serving up tasty northern specialities
such as tripe and roast kid. Leave room for
the torta de noz (walnut tart).
Simbiose (%222 030 398; Rua Infante Dom Henrique
133; mains 11) Swooning-couples kind of place
with a candlelit dining room overlooking the river. The cuisine is no-surprises
Portuguese, with a reasonable daily buffet
(7.50).
Casa Mariazinha (%222 009 137; Rua de Belomonte 2-4; meal 60) Think five tables and four
courses served with a flourish and the
accompanying wines by sommelier Antonio. The food is delicious: gourmet and
good to look at, prepared by Brazilian wife
Neide.
Cozzza Rio (%222 000 712; Rua S Francisco 8; mains
60) Theres a fashionable vibe at this small
CAFS, QUICK EATS & SELF-CATERING
Caf Majestic (%222 003 887; Rua Santa Catarina 112)

An extravagant Art Nouveau relic where
powdered ladies enjoy afternoon tea.
Alfarroba (%222 088 720; Rua Do Bolho; snacks
2.50) Excellent vegetarian buffet and takeaway next to Hotel Don Henrique.
Caf Ancra Douro (%222 003 749; Praa de Parada
Leito 49; snacks 3) Undergoing an overhaul at
time of research, this place typically heaves
with students here for the veggie burgers,
hot dogs and crepes.
Bolho market (Rua Formosa; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri,
8am-1pm Sat) Sells fruit and veggies in season,
plus cheese and deli goodies.
Drinking
Solar do Vinho do Porto (%226 094 749; Rua Entre
Quintas 220; h 2pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Sophisticated setting for tasting the port made just
across the river.
La Maison des Porto (%936 057 340; Rua So Jo
46; h10am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 10am12.30pm Wed & Sun) This vinotheque gets the
thumbs up from readers; taste and learn

about port from the charming multilingual
owner.
Ryans Irish Pub (%222 005 366; Rua Infante Dom
Henrique 18; h6pm-2am) Theres a suitably blarney atmosphere here for enjoying the usual
range of gluggable beer.
Entertainment
Academia (%222 005 737; Rua So Joo 80; h10pmlate Tue-Sat) Revamped and stylishly hip
disco-bar.
Bar Duque Piano Bar (%223 20 848; Rua da Lada
98; hMon-Sat) On a street back from the
Douro, this place has a nice low-key ambience, aside from karaoke nights.
Mexcal (%226 009 188; Rua da Restaurao 39;
h10pm-4am Tue-Sat) The Latino music here is
good for a little late-night hip swinging.
Club Mau-Mau (%226 076 660; Rua do Outeiro 4;
h11pm-4am Wed-Sat) A dodging-elbows disco
with live music on Thursday nights.
Mar Alta (%226 162 540; Alameda Basilio Teles;
h10pm-2am Wed & Thu, 10pm-4am Fri & Sat, 8pm-4am
Sun) Nail-bitingly trendy disco with occa-
sional live gigs.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
Shopping
ANDANTE FARES
Major shopping areas are eastward around

the Bolho Market and Rua Santa Catarina,
and westward along Rua dos Clrigos.
The best central shopping mall is Via
Catarina Shopping Centre (Rua Santa Catarina) in
a tasteful building. Port is, naturally, a
popular purchase in this town. Shops with
a broad selection include knowledgeable
Garrafeira do Carmo (Rua do Carmo 17), the deli
Casa Janurio (Rua do Bonjardim 352) and Casa Oriental (Campo dos Mrtires da Ptria 111), which also
specialises in bacalhau. Other good buys
are shoes and gold-filigree jewellery. For
handicrafts visit CRAT (Rua da Reboleira 37) in
the Ribeira.
Aliados and the airport. TAP Air passengers

get a free ride. A taxi costs around 18.
BUS
AIR
Central hubs of Portos extensive bus system include Jardim da Cordoaria, Praa da
Liberdade and So Bento station (Praa
Almeida Garrett). Tickets are cheapest
from STCP kiosks or newsagents and tobacconists: 1.55 for a return within Porto
and from 1.95 for outlying areas. Tickets
bought on the bus are 1.30 for a single.
Theres also a 4 day pass available.
Porto is connected by daily flights from Lisbon and London, and almost-daily direct
links from other European cities (see p658).
BUS
Porto has a baffling number of private bus

companies; the main tourist office has a
separate desk for transport queries and
timetables. In general, for Lisbon and the
Algarve the choice is Renex (%222 003 395;
Rua das Carmelitas 32) or Rede Expressos (%222
052 459).
Three companies operate from or near

Praceto Rgulo Magauanha, off Rua Dr Alfredo Magalhes: REDM (%222 003 152) goes
to Braga; AV Minho (%222 006 121) to Viana
do Castelo; and Carlos Soares (%222 051 383)
to Guimares.
TRAIN
Porto is a northern Portugal rail hub with

three stations. Most international trains,
and all intercity links, start at Campanh,
2km east of the centre. Inter-regional and
regional services depart from Campanh
or the central So Bento station (%225 364 141);
buses 34 and 35 run frequently between
these two.
At So Bento station you can book tickets to any destination from any other Porto
station.
The Andante is a euro-economising ticket

covering metro, funicular, tram and some
bus routes. The initial card costs 0.50, and
it may then be recharged with more credit
at vending machines at metro, train and bus
stations. The savings are substantial. For a
detailed breakdown on the multitrip deals
and season tickets pick up the Transport
Guide pamphlet (in English) available at
the city tourist offices.
FUNICULAR
Save your puff and hop on the funicular

that shuttles up and down a steep incline
from Av Gustavo Eiffel to Rua Augusto
Rosa (1.35, from 8am to 8pm).
METRO
Portos metro currently comprises four

metropolitan lines that all converge at the
Trinidade stop. An additional line running
from the airport to the centre is scheduled
to open in 2007. For an update and metro
map check the website www.metrodoporto
.pt. Tickets cost 1.30 for a single ride, but
you can save money by investing in an Andante card (see above).
ALONG THE DOURO

Portugals best-known river flows through
the countrys rural heartland. In the upper
reaches, port-wine grapes are grown on
steep terraced hills, punctuated by remote
stone villages and, in spring, splashes of
dazzling white almond blossom.
The Douro River is navigable right
across Portugal. Highly recommended is
the train journey from Porto to Peso da
Rgua (6.75, 2 hours, about a dozen
trains daily), the last 50km clinging to the
rivers edge; four trains continue daily to
Pocinho (4 hours). Douro Azul (%223 393
950; www.douroazul.com) and other companies
run one- and two-day river cruises, mostly
from March to October. Cyclists and drivers can choose river-hugging roads along
either bank, although theyre crowded at
weekends. A detailed colour map Rio Douro
(3) is available from Porto bookshops.
VIANA DO CASTELO
pop 36,545
Portugals folkloric capital specialises in

making (and selling) the traditional embroidered costumes but is far from twee.
This elegant port town has grandiose 16thcentury buildings, superb restaurants and
beaches. The tourist office (%258 822 620; www
.rtam.pt; Rua Hospital Velho) has information on
festivals and the region. In August Viana
hosts the Festas de Nossa Senhora da Agonia
(see p657).
Sights
The stately heart of town is Praa da Repblica, with its delicate fountain and grandiose buildings, including the 16th-century
Misericrdia, a striking Renaissance building, its upper storeys supported by ornate
caryatids.
Atop Santa Luzia Hill, the Templo do Sagrado Corao de Jesus (Temple of the Sacred Heart of
TAXI
Jesus; %258 823 173; admission free; h8am-7pm AprSep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar) offers a grand panorama
To cross town, expect to pay about 5. An

additional charge is made to leave the city
limits, including across the Ponte de Dom
Lus I to Vila Nova de Gaia.
across the river. The funicular railway is

not operating, so if your ankles and knees
can cope, take the steps, or a taxi, roughly
2km to the top.
Getting Around
TRAM
Sleeping
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Porto has three antique trams that trundle

daily along and around the Douro to the
Foz district.
Pousada da Juventude Gil Eannes (%258 821 582;

naviogileannes@movijovem.pt; Gil Eannes; dm 11) This
hostal is located in the bowels of a grand
The AeroBus (% 808 200 166; www.stcp.pt; 4;

h6.45am-6.15pm) runs every half hour between
T H E N O R T H A l o n g T h e D o u r o 653
ship. QE2 it aint, but its comfortable and

the novelty factor is high.
Penso Verde Minho (%258 822 386; Rua do Anjinho 34-36; s/d 25/35) Ace location for foodies
on a cobbled restaurant-flanked side street;
the spotless rooms are pretty slick for the
price.
Residencial Viana Mar (%258 828 962; Av Combatentes da G Guerra 215; s/d 35/45) Well-positioned
with comfortable chintzy rooms and a
sunken bar that dates from the sixties when
it was Vianas first nightclub.
Margarida da Praa (%258 809 630; Largo 5 de
Outubro 58; s/d 55/70; ai) Theres a boutique
feel to this port-side place with its modern
art, classy restaurant and shiny, comfortable rooms.
Eating
A Gruta (%258 820 214; Rua Grande 87; mains 7) This
is a snug place with half-tiled walls and a
reasonable daily menu of solid local dishes.
Nip across to the pasteleria for dessert.
Dolce Vita (%258 820 214; Rua do Poo 44; mains
7) Wood-fired pizza and innovative pasta
sauces make this the obligatory refuelling
spot in town.
Zip (%258 826 594; Rua Luis Jcome 17; mains 7)
Well-named, this buzzy new restaurant
with its red-and-wicker dcor has an excellent international menu if youre suffering
from bacalhau burn out, including crepes,
pasta dishes and salads.
O Garfo (%258 829 415; Largo 5 de Outubro 58;
mains 8) Mixed grill, salmon and cod cakes
are just some of the goodies available at
this warm inviting restaurant opposite the
docks.

Half a dozen express coaches daily go to
Porto (5, one hour) and Lisbon (14, 5
hours) Monday to Friday, with fewer at
weekends.
BRAGA
pop 110,000
The religious capital of Portugal, lovely

Braga is monolithic in its ecclesiastical architecture with a contemporary contrast of
pedestrian streets flanked with classy cafs,
shops and boutiques. The only downside
is the Big Mac eyesore in the middle of
the towns most beautiful square. The tourist office (%253 262 550; www.cm-braga.pt; Praa da
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
Book accommodation online at www.lonelyplanet.com
Repblica 1) can help with accommodation
HORSE RIDING
and maps.
Intercidade trains arrive twice daily from

Lisbon (15, five hours), Coimbra (10,
2 hours) and Porto (2, 1 hours), and
there are daily connections north to Viana
do Castelo. Daily bus services link Braga
to Porto (4.50, 1 hours) and Lisbon
(14.50, five hours).
The national park operates horse riding facilities (%253 390 110) from beside its Vidoeiro camping ground, near Gers. Equi
Desafios (%253 352 803; www.equidesafios.com; Rua
Dr Francisco Xavier de Arajo) in Gers also organises treks.
Sights
In the centre of Braga is the S (museum & chapels adult/child 2/free; h8.30am-5.30pm), an elegant
cathedral complex.
At Bom Jesus do Monte, a hilltop pilgrimage site 5km from Braga, is an extraordinary stairway, the Escadaria do Bom Jesus,
with allegorical fountains, chapels and a superb view. Buses run frequently from Braga
to the site, where you can climb the steps
(pilgrims sometimes do this on their knees)
or ascend by funicular railway (1).
Its an easy day trip to Guimares with its
medieval town centre and a palace of the
dukes of Bragana.
Sleeping
Pousada da Juventude (% 253 616 163; braga
@movijovem.pt; Rua de Santa Margarida 6; dm/d 10/27)
This bland but lively hostel is a 10-minute
walk from the centre.
Hotel Residencial CC Avenida (%253 275 722; Bragashopping; s/d 35/45; ai) Shopoholic heaven,
in the centre of a commercial centre, this
modern place has pink-and-white rooms,
satellite TV and friendly front-desk folk.
Albergaria da S (%253 214 502; fax 253 214
501; Rua Gonalo Pereira 39-45; s/d 45/50; pa) A
swallows swoop from the cathedral with
appropriate heady views, the rooms have
hard-wood floors, sophisticated artwork
and a subtle colour scheme.
Eating & Drinking

Adega Prego (%253 277 249; Praa Velha 18; mains
7) Earthy local with outdoor tables on a
scenic side street. Dishes include a recommended roast lamb with chestnuts.
Taberna do Felix (%253 617 701; Praa Velha 17;
mains 9) Perfect for a smoochy dinner, this
intimate restaurant has dim lighting, stone
walls and an innovative menu, including
tapas and fish fritters.
D Diogo (%253 262 297; Diogo de Sousa 81-83; mains
15) Go for the splurge at this classy candlelit restaurant with its limited menu of
refined fish, meat and rice dishes.
Caf Vianna (%253 262 336; Praa da Repblica) A
classic 19th-century caf under the arches.
A Brazileira (%253 262 104; Largo do Bar de S Martinho) Mildly decadent corner bar attracting
effortlessly scruffy students.
PARQUE NACIONAL DA
PENEDA-GERS
Boasting some of the most stunning scenery in the country, this superb park is a
popular holiday spot for Portugals happy
campers. Hikers are also keen, especially
on the wilder northern region around Serra
de Peneda. The area has an ancient history
with dolmens, stone circles and standing
stones; most are marked on local tourist
maps. The parks main centre is at Caldas
do Gers, a sleepy, hot-spring village.
WATER SPORTS
Rio Caldo, 8km south of Gers, is the base

for water sports on the Caniada reservoir.
Equi Desafios (see R03B) rents out canoes and
other boats. For paddling the Salamonde
reservoir, Trote-Gers rents out canoes
from its camp site at Cabril.
Gers Parque das Termas (admission 1; hSat
& Sun Apr, daily May-Oct) has a swimming pool (MonFri 3.50, Sat & Sun 5).
Sleeping
Gers tourist office (%253 391 133; fax 253 391

282) can provide information on activities
and accommodation.
Other park offices are at Arcos de Valdevez and Montalegre. All have a map and an
English-language booklet on the park (3).
A more detailed topographical map can be
bought in Lisbon or Porto or ordered online (www.igeoe.pt, in Portuguese).
Although Gers has plenty of penses, you

may find vacancies are limited as many are
block-booked by spa patients in summer.
Cerdeira Camping Ground (Campo do Gers;
%253 351 005; fax 253 353 315; camp sites 4) Cerdeira has shady camp sites, a laundry and a
mini-supermarket.
Penso Adelaide (%253 390 020; fax 253 390 029;
d 40; a) Bit of a hike from the centre but
the views are a suitable reward. Rooms are
clean and bright.
guas do Gers (%253 390 190; Av Manuel Fran-
Activities
cisco da Costa 136; www.aguasdogeres.pt; s/d 45/55;

pa)A grand old building houses the
Information
HIKING
There are trails and footpaths through the

park, some between villages with accommodation. Leaflets detailing these are available from the park offices.
Day hikes around Gers are popular. An
adventurous option is the old Roman road
from Mata do Albergaria (10km up-valley
from Gers by taxi or hitching), past the
Vilarinho das Furnas reservoir to Campo do
Gers. More distant destinations include Ermida and Cabril, both with simple cafs and
accommodation. Guided walks are organised by several outfits including Incentivos
Outdoors (%914 863 353) at Gers and TroteGers (%/fax 253 659 860) at Cabril.
towns latest hotel with its stylish and tasteful rooms, tennis and spa facilities.
Hotel Universal (%253 390 020; Av Manuel Francisco da Costa; www.ehgeres.com; s/d 58/70; as)
A leafy patio lends an air of elegance to

this main-street hotel with comfortable
rooms. Shares a tennis court with the
guas hotel.
Eating
P O R T U G A L D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n 655
coming from Lisbon or Porto, change at

Braga.
PORTUGAL DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
Most tourist offices have lists of accommodation to suit a range of budgets. In this
chapter the budget category for a double
room is up to 45, midrange is between 46
and 75 and top end is over 76.
Note that most accommodation options,
excluding camping grounds and youth hostels, include a continental breakfast in the
price.
Camping
Camping is always the cheapest option,
although some camping grounds close
out of season. The multilingual, annuallyupdated Roteiro Campista (5), sold in
larger bookshops or via the www.roteiro
-campista.pt website, lists Portugals camping grounds.
Ecotourism and Farmstays

Private counterparts are operated under
a scheme called Turismo de Habitao (www
.turihab.pt) and a number of smaller schemes
(collectively called Turihab). They allow
you to stay in a farmhouse, some with selfcatering cottages. Check the website or ask
at tourist offices about local Turihab properties. Turismo da Natureza Portugal (www.icat
.fc.ul.pt, in Portuguese) offers lodging throughout
Portugals national protected areas.
Guesthouses
The most common types of guesthouse are
the residencial and the penso, which are
usual family owned and comfortable. Many
have cheaper rooms with shared bath.
Most of Gers penses serve hearty meals

to guests and nonguests. There are several
restaurants, plus shops in the main street
for stocking up on picnic provisions. The
Cerdeira Camping Ground has a cheap restaurant of a reasonable standard.
Hotels
CYCLING
Mountain bikes can be hired from Incentivos

Outdoors (%914 863 353) or the German-run Penso Carvalho Arajo (%253 391 185; hMay-Sep).
From Braga, at least six coaches daily run to

Rio Caldo and Gers, and seven to Campo
do Gers (fewer at weekends). If you are
Pousadas are government-run former castles, monasteries or palaces, often in spectacular locations. For details contact tourist
offices, or Pousadas de Portugal (%218 442 001;
The government grades hotels with one to

five stars. For a high-season double expect
to pay 60 up to as much as 250. Prices
drop considerably in low season.
Pousadas
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
654 T H E N O R T H Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l D a Pe n e d a - G e r s
www.pousadasjuventude.pt; Rua Soares de Passos, 1749

Lisbon).
Youth Hostels
Portugal has 46 pousadas da juventude
(youth hostels) within the Hostelling International (HI) system. Reserve in advance
for a 1.50 fee by contacting Movijovem (Map
pp624-5; %213 524 072; www.pousadasjuventude.pt; Av
Duque dvila 137, Lisbon).
If you dont already have a card from your

national hostel association, you can pay a 2
supplement per night (and have a one-night,
six-night or year-long guest card).
ACTIVITIES
Off-road cycling and bike trips are booming in Portugal; see Tavira (p639), Setbal
(p637), vora (p641) and Parque Nacional
da Peneda-Gers (p654).
Despite some fine rambling country,
walking is not a Portuguese passion. Some
parks are establishing trails though, and
some adventure travel agencies offer walking tours.
Popular water sports include surfing,
windsurfing, canoeing, white-water rafting
and water skiing. For local specialists, see
Lagos (p639), Sagres (p641), vora (p641),
Tavira (p639), Coimbra (p645) and Parque
Nacional da Peneda-Gers (p655).
Alpine skiing is possible at Torre in
the Serra da Estrela usually from January
through to March.
The Instituto Portugus da Juventude (%213
522 694; www.sej.pt, in Portuguese; Av da Liberdade 194,
Lisbon) offers holiday programmes for 16 to
30 year olds (visitors too), including cycling, canoeing and rock climbing.
BUSINESS HOURS
Banks are open 8.30am to 3pm weekdays.
Museums and tourist attractions are open
between 10am and 5pm Tuesday to Friday, but are often closed at lunch. Shopping
hours are generally 9am to 7pm weekdays,
and 9am to 1pm Saturday. Restaurants are
open for lunch and dinner, unless noted.
Tourist offices in larger towns are generally
open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm, in
smaller towns they close for lunch from
between 1.30 and 3pm. Portuguese post offices (correios) are open Monday to Friday
8.30am to 6pm. In Lisbon and Porto they
are also open on Saturday mornings.
T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 657
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Countries hosting Portuguese embassies

or consulates abroad include the following
listings:
Australia (%02-6290 1733; 23 Culgoa Circuit, OMalley,
Holy Week Festival Easter week in Braga features
Portuguese Embassies & Consulates
Canberra ACT 2606)

Canada (%613-7290 883; 645 Island Park Dr, Ottawa
Ont K1Y OB8)
France (%01 47 27 35 29; 3 Rue de Noisiel, 75116 Paris)
Germany (%030-590 063 500; Zimmerstrasse 56,
Berlin 10117)
Ireland (%012-894 46; Knocksinna House, Foxrock,
Dublin 18)
Netherlands (%070-363 02 17; Bazarstraat 21, The
Hague 2518)
New Zealand (%09-309 1454; PO Box 305, 33 Garfield
St, Parnell, Auckland)
Spain (%915 617 800; Calle Castello 128, 28006
Madrid)
UK (%0207-235 5331; 11 Belgrave Square, London
SW1X 8PP)
USA (%202-328 8610; 2125 Kalorama Rd NW,
Washington DC 20008)
Embassies & Consulates in Portugal

Nations with embassies or consulates in
Portugal include the following:
Australia (Map pp624-5;%213 101 500; Av da Liberdade 200, Lisbon)
Canada Lisbon (Map pp624-5;%213 164 600; Av da
Liberdade 196); Faro (%289 521 120; Rua Frei Loureno
de Santa Maria 1)
France Lisbon (Map pp624-5;%226 939 292; Calada a
Marques de Abrantes 123); Porto (%226 094 805; Rua
Eugnio de Castro 352)
Germany (Map pp628-9;%213 810 210; Campo dos
Mrtires da Ptria 38, Lisbon)
Ireland (Map pp624-5;%213 929 440; Rua da Imprensa
Estrela 1, Lisbon)
Netherlands Lisbon (Map pp624-5; %213 914 900; Av
Infante Santo 43); Porto (%Consulate 222 080 061; Rua
da Reboleira 7)
New Zealand (see the UK Embassy)
Spain Lisbon consulate (Map pp628-9; %213 472 792;
Rua do Salitre 1); Porto (Map p649;%225 101 685; Rua
de Dom Joo IV 341); Vila Real de Santo Antnio (%281
544 888; Avenida Ministro Duarte Pacheco)
UK Lisbon (Map pp624-5;%213 924 000; Rua de So
Bernardo 33); Porto (%226 184 789; Av da Boavista
3072); Portimo (%282 417 800; Largo Francisco a
Maurcio 7) The UK consulate also oversees consular
matters for New Zealand.
USA (Map pp624-5;%217 273 300; Av das Foras
Armadas, Lisbon)
April
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Ambulance %112
colourful processions, including Ecce Homo, with barefoot

penitents carrying torches.
Fire %117
Police %112
May
Festas das Cruzes Held in Barcelos in May, the Festival
of the Crosses is known for processions, folk music and
dance, plus regional handicrafts.
June
Feira Nacional da Agricultura In June Santarm
hosts the National Agricultural Fair, with bullfighting, folk
singing and dancing.
Festa do Santo Antnio The Festival of Saint Anthony
fills the streets of Lisbon on 13 June.
Festa de So Joo Portos big street bash is the St Johns
Festival, from 16 to 24 June.
POST
Stamps can be bought over the counter from
the post office or from an automatic dispensing machine (Correio de Portugal Selos).
TELEPHONE
Mobile Phones
Mobile phone numbers within Portugal
have nine digits and begin with %9.
Phone Codes
Castelos Our Lady of Suffering Festival runs for three days,

including the weekend nearest to 20 August, and is famed
for its folk arts, parades and fireworks.
All Portuguese phone numbers have nine

digits. These include area codes, which always need to be dialled. For general information dial %118, for international inquiries
dial %179, and for reverse-charge (collect)
calls dial %120.
HOLIDAYS
Phonecards
August
Festas de Nossa Senhora da Agonia Viana do
New Years Day 1 January

Carnival February/March (Shrove Tuesday)
Good Friday and the following Saturday March/
April
Liberty Day 25 April (commemorating the 1975

Revolution)
Labour Day 1 May

Corpus Christi May/June (the ninth Thursday after
Easter)
National Day 10 June

Feast of the Assumption 15 August
Republic Day 5 October
All Saints Day 1 November
Independence Day 1 December (celebrating
independence from Spain in 1640)
Immaculate Conception 8 December
Christmas Day 25 December
MONEY
There are numerous banks with ATMs located throughout Portugal. Credit cards
are increasingly being accepted in hotels,
restaurants and shops, however, you will
normally be asked to provide photo identification. Exchange bureaux are common
throughout Portugal; often located near to
or even within the same building as the
tourist offices.
Phonecards are the most reliable and cheap

way of making a phone call from a telephone booth. They are sold at post offices,
newsagents and tobacconists in denominations of 5 and 10.
VISAS
EU nationals need only a valid passport or
identity card for entry to Portugal, and may
stay indefinitely. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the United States
can stay for up to 90 days in any half-year
without a visa. Others, including nationals
of South Africa, need a visa unless theyre
the spouse or child of a EU citizen.
TRANSPORT IN
PORTUGAL
Air
Portugals main gateway is the Aeroporto

Portela (LIS; %218 413 700) in Lisbon, approximately 8km north of the city centre. Portos
Aeroporto Francisco S Carneiro (OPO; %229
432 400) also handles international flights,
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
656 P O R T U G A L D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s
as does the Aeroporto de Faro (FAO; %229 800

801) in the Algarve, which has the largest
number of charter flights. The website for
all three airports is www.ana-aeroportos.pt,
in Portuguese.
Air Portugal (TAP; %289 800 218; www.tap.pt, in
Portuguese) is the main international airline.
Portuglia Airlines (PGA; %218 425 559; www.pga.pt,
in Portuguese) is primarily a domestic airline,
but is increasingly opening up international
routes including to/from Manchester, Brussels, Nice and Lyon. Hi Fly (%210 062 480; www
.hifly.aero), formerly Air Luxor, flies to major
European capitals and to former Portuguese colonies in Africa, Guinea-Bissau
and Sao Tome.
Following is a list of the major carriers
serving Portugal with the airports they use:
Lisbon, Porto or Faro. For details of carriers
to/from outside Mediterranean Europe see
the Transport chapter (p877).
Air France (code AF; %218 482 177; www.airfrance
.com) Lisbon, Porto.
Air Portugal (code TAP; %289 800 218; www.tap.pt)
Lisbon, Porto, Faro.
British Airways (code BA; %214 154 151; www.ba
.com) Lisbon, Porto, Faro.
British Midlands/Bmibaby (code WW; %UK 0870
264 2229; www.bmibaby.com) Lisbon, Porto, Faro.
easyJet (code EZY; %218 413 700; www.easyjet.com)
Lisbon, Faro.
Iberia (code IB; %808 261 261; www.iberia.com, in
Spanish) Lisbon, Porto.
KLM (code KL; %204 747 747; www.klm.nl, in German)
Lufthansa (code IH; %London 020-8750 3460; www
.lufthansa.com, in German) Lisbon, Porto, Faro.
Monarch Airlines (code ZB; %289 889 475; www.fly
-monarch.com) Faro.
Portuglia Airlines (code PGA; %218 425 559; www
.pga.pt, in Portuguese) Lisbon, Porto, Faro.
Ryanair (code FR; %229 432 400; www.ryanair.com)
Porto.
Spanair (code JK; %218 4998 578; www.spanair
.com) Lisbon.
There are year-round flights from the UK to

Lisbon, Porto and Faro with BA, PGA and
TAP. No-frills carriers include easyJet with
flights from London Luton to Lisbon and
from several UK airports to Faro. Ryanair
flies from London Stanstead to Porto. British Midlands Bmibaby also has inexpensive
flights from the East Midlands to Faro.
TAP and Continental Airlines both have
a daily flight from New York to Lisbon
with connections to Faro and Porto. Air

France has multiple daily non-stop Paris
Lisbon and ParisPorto connections, while
PGA has a daily flight from Paris to Porto.
From neighbouring Spain, TAP, Iberia and
Spanair have daily MadridLisbon flights.
Elsewhere in Europe, KLM and TAP fly
to Lisbon and Porto daily from Amsterdam, while PGA has regular direct flights
to Lisbon from Berlin, Stuttgart, Cologne
and Hamburg.
around 210).
Renfe (%Spain 902 240 202; www.renfe.es; return
ticket 126) has a nightly sleeper service
Land
GETTING AROUND
nel Tunnel, and then onward to Lisbon via

Irn. Contact Rail Europe (%UK 08705-848 848;
www.raileurope.co.uk; return ticket around 300). From
Paris, contact SNCF (www.sncf.com; return ticket
between Madrid and Lisbon. Badajoz

ElvasLisbon is slow and there is only one
regional service daily, but the scenery is
stunning.
BUS
Air
From UK
Air Portugal (TAP; %707 205 700; www.tap.pt) has

daily LisbonFaro flights (under an hour)
year-round. Overall, however, flights within
Portugal are poor value unless you have a
youth/student card; it is a lot cheaper to
hop on the bus or train.
Eurolines (% UK 08705-143 219; www.eurolines.co

.uk) offers departures for Portugal twice
weekly with several stops that include
Lisbon (42 hours) and Porto (40 hours).
Buses depart from Victoria coach station,
travelling via the Channel ferry and stopping over in Buniel, Spain and Lille in
France. The current return fare London
Lisbon is UK179.
From Spain
Eurolines (% Madrid 915 063 360; www.eurolines
.es, in Spanish) operates several services from
Spain to Portugal, including Madrid

Lisbon (40, eight hours), SevilleLisbon
(36, four hours) and BarcelonaLisbon
(80, 16 hours), all going at least three times
weekly.
ALSA (%Madrid 902 422 242; www.alsa.es) has
twice-daily MadridLisbon services, while
Damas (% Huelva 959 256 900; www.damas-sa.es)
runs twice daily Monday to Saturday from
Seville to Faro and Lagos via Huelva, jointly
with the Algarve line EVA.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There is no border control in Portugal

and there are plenty of self-service stations; some have garages that can replace
batteries, repair punctures and do minor
mechanical repairs, as well as carry some
spare parts. Alternatively, they can direct
you to the nearest car workshop. For more
information about driving in Portugal
see opposite.
TRAIN
The fastest and most convenient route to

Portugal from the UK is with Eurostar from
London Waterloo to Paris via the Chan-
Bicycle
Mountain biking is popular in Portugal
and a great way to explore the country,
although given the Portuguese penchant
for overtaking on blind corners, it can be
dangerous on lesser roads. Bicycle lanes are
rare, aside from in the natural parks: veteran pedallers recommend the Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gers (p654). A growing
number of towns have bike-rental outfits
(around 10 a day). If youre bringing your
own, pack plenty of spares. Bicycles cant
be taken with you on trains, although most
bus lines will accept them as accompanied
baggage, subject to space and sometimes
for an extra fee.
Boat
Portugal is not big on waterborne transport
as a rule, however, there are river cruises
along the Douro River from Porto (p648),
Lisbons river trips (p629) and commuter
ferries.
Bus
Portugals buses are generally modern and
comfortable. However, there is a baffling
number of privatised bus companies operating across the country. In Porto alone
there are at least 18 bus companies, most
based at different terminals.
The only company really worth worrying
about is the national network, Rede Expressos
(%969 502 050; www.rede-expressos.pt, in Portuguese),
T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g A r o u n d 659
which has a fleet of 100 buses, a comprehensive website and provides connections
to 300 locations throughout the country.
Most bus-station ticket desks will give you a
computer print-out of fares, and all services
and schedules will be clearly posted at each
major station.
CLASSES
There are three classes of bus service: expressos are comfortable, fast, direct buses
between major cities; rpidas are fast regional buses; and carreiras stop at every
crossroad. Expressos are generally the best
cheap way to get around (particularly for
long trips, where per-kilometre costs are
lowest). An under-26 card should get you
a discount of around 20%, at least on the
long-distance services.
COSTS
Travelling by bus in Portugal is fairly inexpensive. Refer to the Getting There & Away
section of the respective city or town you
are travelling to or from for distance times
and fares.
RESERVATIONS
Advance reservations are only really necessary on the longer routes of the expresso
service.
Car & Motorcycle

AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATIONS
ACP (Automvel Clube de Portugal; Map pp624-5; %213

180 100; www.acp.pt, in Portuguese; Rua Rosa Arajo 24,
Lisbon) has a reciprocal arrangement with
many of the better-known foreign automobile clubs, including AA and RAC. ACP
provides medical, legal and breakdown
assistance. Emergency help is available in
the north (%228 340 001) and the south
(%219 429 103).
HIRE
To hire a car in Portugal you must be at

least 25 and have held your home licence
for over a year (some companies allow
younger drivers at higher rates). To hire
a scooter of up to 50cc you must be over
18 years old and have a valid driving licence. For more powerful scooters and
motorbikes you must have a valid driving
licence covering these vehicles from your
home country.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
658 T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
INSURANCE
Although most car insurance companies

within the EU will cover taking your car
to Portugal, it is prudent to consider extra
cover for assistance in case your car breaks
down. The minimum insurance required is
third party.
ROAD RULES
Driving is on the right side of the road.

Speed limits for cars and motorcycles
are 50km/h in cities and public centres,
90km/h on normal roads and 120km/h
on motorways (but 50km/h, 70km/h and
100km/h for motorcycles with sidecars).
Drivers and front passengers in cars must
wear seat belts. Motorcyclists and passengers must wear helmets, and motorcycles
must have headlights on day and night.

Using a mobile phone while driving could
result in a fine.
Drink-driving laws are strict here with
a maximum legal blood-alcohol level of
0.05%.
Train
Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses (CP; %808 208 208;
www.cp.pt) is the statewide train network and
is generally efficient, although can be slower
than long-distance buses. Most trains are
regionais (R) or suburbanos, stopping at stations en route. The more costly intercidades
(IC) trains are faster, while the most luxurious and pricey are the alfa pendulares (AP)
trains. Both the IC and AP lines require seat
reservations in advance.
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PORTUGAL
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660 T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g A r o u n d

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Lonely Planet Publications

1L bottled water 0.45

Parque Natural das Serras

In the 8th century the Moors conquered

1L unleaded petrol 1.27

LONELY PLANET INDEX

Budget hotel room 35

Custard tart 0.70

Portugal has a sunny warm climate with mild

Herald Tribune newspaper 2.50

CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO

Underground parking 1 per hour

Short black coffee 0.60

Stroll around elegant and evocative Sintra

See The Algarve Map

Flush with new funds, Portugals entry

The late Amlia Rodrigues was the Edith

areas total approximately 6500 sq km just

FOOD & DRINK

Staples & Specialities

Portuguese vinho (wine) offers excellent

Where to Eat & Drink

Vegetarians & Vegans

Lisbon has a seductive melancholy charm

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

See Central Lisbon Map

Rua Ferreira Borges

Av Marechal Craveiro Lopes

Av Infante Dom Henrique

and crowned by a castle, the modern centre

Lisboa Welcome Center (Map pp628-9; %210 312

The rotation of emergency, night service

Baixa is the modern city centre with its grid

Saraiva de Carvalho 49) English-speaking staff and dental

English Bookshop (Map pp628-9; %213 428 472; Rua

658 435) At the entrance to the monastery; Lisbon airport

de So Maral 83) Has a good range of English books.

Ask Me Lisboa kiosks Belm (Map pp624-5; %213

LISBON IN TWO DAYS

Chafariz de Dentro 1; adult/child 2.50/1.25; h10am-1pm

travaganza of Manueline architecture with

collection dating from the 1930s, covering

nalia including model ships.

a superb collection donated by a wealthy

via the gardens. Enjoy most of the biggies

Santa Apolnia & Lapa

sumptuous 17th-century convent. Exhibits

Carris (Map pp628-9; %966 298 558; www.carris.pt;

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

The Festa do Santo Antnio (Festival of Saint

Martinho da Arcada .......................51 E4

The old wharves have been slickly revamped

interactive exhibits for kids of all ages. Take

002; www.oceanario.pt; adult/child 10/5; h10am-7pm;

The former Expo 98 site, a revitalised

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

is in Lapa, Lisbons moneyed diplomatic

Parque das Naes

Gilns Irish Pub...........................59

Baixa & Alfama

Beira Mar (Map pp628-9; %218 871 528; Largo Te

trundle from the main square, readers have

is a real value-for-money place with goodsized carpeted rooms, satellite TV and a

bles surrounded by bars, restaurants and