THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA HANDBOOK ON

THE DACHSHUND
PREFACE This booklet is made possible by combining the previous work done for DCA by Dee Hutchinsons The Dachshund Club of America, Inc. Handbook and Judy Goulders, The Dachshund. This booklet is for the novice Dachshund owner to use as a guide, to assist in general care, grooming, training, and to keep your dog happy and healthy for many years. Your dogs breeder, or a knowledgeable breeder in your area, should be able to provide more detailed grooming and training techniques and information.

THE DACHSHUND CLUB OF AMERICA, INC. The Dachshund Club of America (DCA) is one of the oldest breed club members in the American Kennel Club, elected to membership in 1895. Only eight other breed clubs have greater longevity. In 1934, the Dachshund Club of America presented its first single breed specialty show, held in New York City. The judge was Mrs. C. Davies Tainter and there were 204 Dachshunds entered. Between the years 1936-1941, the DCA specialties were held at the Morris & Essex Show in New Jersey. Since 1960, the DCA Parent Specialty has moved around the country using a regional schedule East coast, West coast, Midwest, Southwest, Southeast, Northwest and Northeast. The National Specialties have an average entry of 400 dogs. With over 1,200 members, the Dachshund Club of America is an active, viable organization. There are few areas of interest that DCA is not involved or interested in. DCA is financially supportive of medical research on behalf of the dachshund. Many research projects are ongoing: disc disease and progressive retinal atrophy are only a couple of the areas to which DCA has contributed both financially and with member participation in these studies. DCA provides bronze plaques, medallions, and gold plated pins as prizes at Parent and Regional Specialty shows, as well as Field Trials and Obedience Trials. DCA also recognizes the versatility of our breed by awarding Versatility Certificates. This certificate is awarded only to dachshunds that perform meritoriously in multiple areas: Conformation, Obedience, Field, Earthdog, Agility, Rally and Canine Good Citizen. DCA also publishes a quarterly Newsletter for its members that are also available to the dachshund loving public through subscription. The Newsletter provides a forum for articles, interviews, show results and kennel advertising. Information regarding the Dachshund Club of America, Inc can also be found on their web site at www.dachshund-dca.org.
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There are over 50 active Dachshund Regional Specialty shows across the United States. Through our secretary or our website, www.dachshunddca.org, we are able to refer you to a dachshund club in your region/area. These clubs, in turn, can refer you to reputable members who have animals available for sale or can just answer your questions on the breed. HISTORY OF THE DACHSHUND It is difficult to say exactly where the dachshund as a specific breed originated. There are as many different opinions as there are experts on the breed. Traditionally, the dachshund is thought of as a German dog, since his name translate into badger dog. There is little doubt that the Germans are responsible for considerable improvement in the breed and that they have done much to further his capabilities. It seems reasonable to assume that dachshunds are descended from the basset hound. Early breeders, being desirous of a smaller dog that could go to ground, used a breeding program that helped the dachshund evolve into the breed which we recognize today. Whatever his earlier origins, it is to the Germans that we look for specific records. In 1840, there were 54 dachshunds registered in the all-breed studbook in Germany. In 1879, the first standard for the dachshund breed was written. It is amazing how few changes have been made in the standard since that time. Lieutenant Ligner, the first president of that organization, formed the Berlin Teckelclub in 1888. The first studbook devoted solely to dachshunds was published in 1890 with 394 dachshunds registered. If one chooses, one could trace present-day pedigrees back to famous foreign kennels whose dogs were imported into the United States: von Lichtenstein, von Luitpoldsheim, Asbeck, Flottenberg, Lindenbuhl, Falltor and Holtzgarten. The first dachshunds brought into the United States were Caesar and Minka, imported in 1887. They were the first of many. From 1887 until the beginning of World War I, there was a steady stream of dachshund into this country. With the advent of the war and the resulting hysteria over anything German, the dachshund lost much popularity and German breeding and breeding stock became almost non-existent. Under the capable guidance of a few dedicated individuals, dachshund
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breeding was reestablished in the United States. World War II again brought disaster to German breeders. However, by then American breeders were well established and the popularity of the dachshund continued to increase. Today, the dachshund is consistently among the top ten most popular breed in terms of AKC registrations. The smooth and the longhair varieties have coexisted for centuries and were even bred back and forth [although this is not common practice today]. The wirehair is the more recent of the varieties, produced to fill the need for a coat resistant to more extreme conditions. WHY A DACHSHUND? There are 153 different breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club. What is there about the Dachshund that makes him so desirable? First, it is his versatility. The dachshund comes in two sizes (standard and miniature) and three different coats (smooth, longhair and wirehair), so no matter what area of the country you live, there is a dachshund to fit your environment. The dachshund us quite intelligent, but he does have a mind of his own. He responds well to training, although his innate stubborn streak may sometimes exhibit itself. If you want a challenge, train your dachshund in obedience work. As a sporting dog, he has an excellent nose for trailing and his disposition and conformation contribute to his skill as an underground worker. He is agile, persistent, and has exceptional hunting instincts. He is particularly well adapted to working rabbits. Around young children, the dachshund is a splendid choice. He is dedicated and protective as well as affectionate and playful. His size, cleanliness, and lack of doggy odor are characteristics that please the woman of the house. Dachshunds are alert watchdogs. They will loudly proclaim the approach of any stranger. The dachshund is easy to love, but he gives much more than he gets. He is courageous to the point of rashness. His delightful antics will provide you with hours of pleasure.
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Without a doubt, the dachshund will be a clever, playful and lively addition to your family. WHY BUY FROM A BREEDER? Some years ago, researchers at McGill University in Montreal found that the home raised animals are both physically and psychologically superior to caged animals and have remarkably fewer behavior problems. Therefore, a reliable show breeder is preferable to a pet shop (or puppy mill) when searching for your dachshund. Pet shops and puppy mills are profit oriented. They do not consider improving the breed and puppies are turned out on a production line basis at the lowest possible cost. This means that the animals are caged and minimum expenditures are made for both health care and nutrition. Breeders, on the other hand, are dog lovers. Dachshund show breeders strive to produce dogs that most closely approach the ideal described in the standard. More often than not, these litters are raised in their homes and are accustomed to a loving family life before they are ready to go to their new homes. Breeders are happy to give a reasonable health guarantee knowing they have given their pups the benefit of good nutrition and necessary veterinary care. Most of the puppies produced by breeders are not destined to become show dogs but they do possess the character, personality and body type described for the breed. Puppies purchased from show breeders are soon welcome and loved members of the family. CHOOSING A PUPPY No one can guarantee champions, for that would require the ability to look into the future. Much of a grown dogs good qualities, no matter how well bred or raised before you became its owner, will disappear if one does not continue with proper nutrition and health care. Most potential buyers want a 6 to 8 week old puppy. Most reliable breeders will not part with a puppy that young for good reasons. At 12 weeks, the puppies are more independent, having been away from their moth5

er for a longer period of time. At 12 weeks, they tend to be attentive to training in general and ready to be house-trained. The younger puppy cannot control himself well. The 12-week-old puppy will have had inoculations that are so important to his adult well-being. At this age, he is ready to bond with his new owners with all the love his little body can produce. Decide first what size and variety you want. If there are young children in the family, a standard might be a better choice. Do not be deterred by the size of the puppy. The big, happy, floppy puppy may grow up to be a coarse adult, while the smallest in the litter may turn out to be the better dog. Usually it is wise to choose the puppy that comes to you. The little one that sits back in the corner may just being quiet and shy or have been bullied by siblings. You do not want a shy puppy. When you pick up the puppy, he should feel hard and firm in your hands, He should have good, heavy bone. If he does not have it at three months, he wont have it later. He should have straight front legs and a strong square rear. Check the puppys bite: the dachshund should have a scissors bite in which the inside of the top teeth touch the outside of the bottom teeth. Look for a puppy with a dark brown or black eye, the darker the better. A light eye or light nose is not desirable. The pigmentation on the nose should be black in most cases. When you have made your choice, ask the breeder for a pedigree (it should be a minimum of three generations) and the puppys AKC registration certificate. Sometimes the certificate is not yet available. In that case, get the names of the sire and dam, their AKC registration numbers, the litter application number and the date the litter was whelped. It is also a good idea to get in writing what inoculations have been given and when, as well as what the puppy has been eating. It is not wise to change a puppys diet too abruptly. Then, take your puppy home and begin a wonderful relationship!

VETERINARY CARE In addition to visits for illness and emergencies, all dogs should be seen by a veterinarian on a regular basis for periodic check-ups, control of parasites and immunization against all serious illness. Almost every dog has worms at one time or another. This should not be a bad reflection on the breeder in the case of puppies but the problem does need to be resolved. Some worms are virtually unavoidable. Round worms are the most common and can sometimes be seen in feces. However, other and more dangerous worms can be present which are only detectable with the aid of a microscope. Examinations of stool samples should be part of a program of regular veterinary care. If detected early and treated properly, most intestinal parasites can be controlled or eliminated without great difficulty. In many areas, heartworm, a parasite carried by mosquitos, is prevalent. Let your veterinarian set up a program for prevention. Heartworm is difficult to treat, especially in older dogs. Most worm medications are specific for one type of parasite and not be used indiscriminately. Worm medications are toxicenough to kill worms while not enough to kill the dog. Follow your veterinarians advice to the letter. Fleas, ticks and other external parasites can be controlled with any number of preparations available through your veterinarian. It is no shame for your dogs to catch fleas but there is no excuse for these parasites setting up housekeeping there. Your veterinarian can recommend the best remedy. Before weaning, puppies get immunity to many serious diseases through their mothers milk. After weaning, this immunity rapidly disappears. The breeder of the litter will provide you with all information about the puppys inoculations and worming. Early inoculations only give temporary immunity to disease. Follow your veterinarians advice on gaining permanent immunity to canine distemper, hepatitis, and leptospirosis. This will involve a series of vaccinations between 12 and 15 weeks of age and an annual booster thereafter. [More recent studies indicate that annual boosters may not be necessary in older dog. Discuss the medical routine best suited for your pet with your veterinarian.2006] Your veterinarian will also suggest the best time for rabies vaccination, which is also required for licensing.
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NUTRITION This is such an important part of your dogs overall state of health and contribution to his longevity, please consult with your breeder and veterinarian for their guidance and recommendations. Dogs require at least forty-three nutrients in very specific ratios for ideal nutrition. Almost all dog foods sold today are better for your dog than table scraps and are more economical than anything you might prepare. Major dog food companies follow strict guidelines based on extensive research to produce nutritionally sound products. Nutritional deficits can be found with owners who indulge their pets with inadequate foods or over-diligent owners who add supplements to carefully formulated commercial diets thereby disturbing the balance. A product labeled complete and balanced from a reputable manufacturer and plenty of fresh water is the best approach to feeding your dog. The method of feeding most widely used is the portion feeding method. Self-feeding method may also be preferred by some owners. In either case, follow the recommendations of the breeder when a puppy leaves the litter for his new home. Then gradually make a transition to any other complete and balanced food you select and the method of feeding you prefer. The newly weaned puppy should be fed quite moist food and it should be served four times a day. A good rule of thumb for feeding is 1 ounce of food per pound of body weight per day. At three months of age, the food can be drier and crunchier and three meals per day should be sufficient. The five to seven month old, or adolescent, puppy needs two meals a day; at ten months to a year, physical maturity, one feeding a day will do. With the self-feeding method, food at the proper consistency is left before him at all times with plenty of clean fresh water so that he may eat at will. This method has many advantages in that it cuts down on preparation time, eliminated the need to meet a feeding schedule and may even save a rug or chair leg by being reduced by the dogs boredom. Most animals raised with this method will not eat more than the amount needed to meet caloric needs. For the dog fed with the traditional portion feeding method and the dog that cannot adjust to the self-feeding, the responsibility for monitoring weight falls to the owner. Every dog has its own nutritional needs and
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one may be roly-poly on the same amount that might leave another a rack of bones. Seldom is undernourishment a problem with the conscientious dog owner. There are certain stress conditions such as puppyhood, pregnancy and nursing, hard work and cold weather, which will cause a nutritional need for a higher protein and greater caloric intake. Dramatic increases in protein can lead to problems in the urinary tract. The dietary problem that is found most often in dogs is obesity. Although fat puppies are cute, too much weight can adversely affect normal growth and development. Obesity in the dog has been shown to lower resistance to viral and bacterial infection, impair cardiac function, increase susceptibility to skin conditions and is associated with reproductive problems as well as shortened life span. Watch your dogs profile. Adjust the quantity of his rations to keep him trim and healthy. It is much easier to fatten a thin dog than it is to slenderize a fatty. A report from Ralston Purina by Robert Mohrman of Pet Nutrition and Care research states that a twenty percent reduction in calorie intake will encourage a good rate of weight reduction in the obese Dachshund depending on the severity of the condition and the advice of your veterinarian. Special prescription diets are available for dogs with special nutritional needs due to kidney, heart or liver disease, obesity and even allergies. Your veterinarian can advise you best on any special dietary needs your dog might have. EXERCISE Every dog needs to exercise to maintain good health and muscle tone. Provide your Dachshund with an outdoor area safely enclosed where he can move about freely and enjoy the fresh air and sunshine. See that he has fresh water and a shelter where he can get out of the sun or wind. Most Dachshunds are hardy and can go out in all weather. However, your dog should not be made to stay out in extreme cold or heat. Your Dachshund should have some controlled exercise on a leash as well. A good working trot to see new places and people will benefit him both mentally and physically as well as offering some benefits to the person on the other end of the leash.
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KENNELING AND THE CRATE METHOD OF HOUSEKEEPING Every dog should have a place of his own where he can retreat for undisturbed rest while feeling safe and secure. This is especially important for the new puppy. An airline create or folding metal rate will feel this need nicely and, in addition, will give you a nice useful tool in housetraining. There are those who feel crating a dog is cruel. On the contrary, any dog will seek a secluded and protected nook for his place of rest. You will be doing your puppy a favor by providing him with a place where he can feel snug and safe. To housebreak your dog effectively you must follow a routine for at least two weeks. Before you retire in the evening, take your puppy out and turn him loose in his exercise yard. He will feel less restricted off leash. If he does his duties, praise him and return him to his crate indoors. His natural instincts will tell him to keep is quarters clean. The very first thing in the morning, carry him to his exercise yard. He should respond quickly since he has held it all night. More praise and back indoors for free run of the room where you will be - -not the whole house. Enjoy each others company for a while and then give him breakfast. As soon as his last bite is gone, take him outside again. Again, praise for the right behavior and return him indoors to his crate for a couple of hours while you go about your usual routine. Towards noon, take him out of the crate and back to the exercise yard. More praise and in the house for some freedom in the room where you will be then back to his crate for awhile. The same routine is repeated for his noon meal and supper. Remember, put him outside as soon as he has finished the last mouthful. Give him free run of the room where you are during the evening with a quick trip out at 8:30pm or so and again just before bed. Preventing your pup from doing his duties indoors and praising his relieving himself outside, good habits will be fairly firm in a couple of weeks. As you feel these habits are more and more firmly established, allow your pup longer periods of freedom and introduce him to other rooms. Should he have an accident during these periods of freedom, a loud NO! followed by a quick and unceremonious trip to the exercise yard will refresh his memory. You will probably, after a few days, notice that your pup retreats to his crate on his own during periods of freedom. Great! A dog who will stay
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happily in his create on his own during the night and when the owners are away gets into far less mischief, is much easier to take traveling and will certainly be more welcome at hotels and motels.

airline approved hard plastic

wire folding/collapsible

soft-side / collapsible

TOYS FOR CHEWING Puppies need something to chew while cutting teeth. Older dogs also need something to chew for aid in teeth cleaning and sometimes to relieve or prevent boredom. In order ro prevent the destruction of furniture, rugs and other possessions, you must provide your dog with something suitable on which he can chew. The first thought is bones. Six-inch lengths of round beef shin bones are the only safe natural bones since all others can be broken or splintered and swallowed. Sharp pieces may pierce the intestine, cause blockage and upset digestion and, if not detected early, may even cause death. Plastic and rubber toys are easily reduced to pieces by most puppies and dogs. If swallowed, these pieces can be as lethal as breakable bones. There are, however, rubber toys which as virtually indestructible. Please be sure to check the labels and consumer reports. Also available in pet supply stores are chewable products by NYLABONE, which will not splinter or break. It is claimed that any nylon fibers, if swallowed, break down easily by stomach secretions. Rawhide chew toys are among the safer of the chew toys. Certainly they are preferable to an old shoe which may have nails and eyelets which can be swallowed. However, there have been reports of dogs strangling on bits of rawhide which become lodged in the throat. Dog biscuits are probably the safest thing for dogs to chew but they are bound to disappear with amazing speed. Too many biscuits could disrupt a carefully balanced diet. In short, you will have to settle on the
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item about which you feel best, the least of the evils, when choosing your dogs chew toy. GROOMING Before attempting the specialized grooming, which will enhance the characteristics of the variety of Dachshund(s) you own, there are basic grooming steps which need to be taken. Brushing and Combing: Before you attempt to bathe, scissor or trim your Dachshund it is essential that you completely brush or comb the coat. This stimulates the flow of the natural coat oils and removes any tangles, which may be in the coat of the Longhair or the Wirehair. It also removes any dead hairs prior to bathing. For the Longhairs and Wirehairs, pay particular attention to the heavily coated areas. Regular brushing encourages a healthy coat.

comb

flea comb

slicker brush

Teeth: You can keep your dogs teeth clean by using a mixture of equal parts baking soda and salt. There are also tooth paste/cleaner for dogs available through pet supply vendors. Moisten a corner of a terry wash cloth (or use a tooth brush designed for canine application), dip into mixture and rub on each tooth. This will help keep plaque and tartar from building up and causing discoloration and/or premature loss of teeth.

tooth scaler

If tartar (hardened yellowish-brownish material) does become evident on your dogs teeth, you can use a dental scaler to remove the tartar in much the same way as your dentist does. Scalers are available from most of the large animal supply places. To use the scaler, place it parallel to the
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tooth on which you are working and at the edge of the gum line. For the upper teeth, draw the scaler down from the gum line to the tip of the tooth, using firm pressure. For the lower teeth, draw the scaler up from the gum line to the tip of the tooth. Once all the teeth have been scaled in this manner, use the baking soda and salt mixture to remove any tiny bit of matter that you may have missed. (Take care to not cut the gums with the scaler. If you feel unsure or, uncomfortable performing this task, most veterinary offices offer this service.) Ears: Dogs ears need to be cleaned on a regular basis, Remember, they are sensitive, so you should not probe too deeply, or you may cause injury. A cotton tipped swab dipped in Baby Oil does a nice job on the ears. Make sure you use the swab gently. Anal glands: (*Note: In addition to these instructions, ask your veterinarian to show you the correct approach the first time, as you may cause extreme pain or injury if not done correctly) These glands are located in either side of the rectal opening and secrete fluid, which aids the dog in moving his bowels. Sometimes the anal fluid builds up and hardens to the point where impaction and/or abscess occur. This can be very painful for the animal, and will require veterinary attention. To help avoid this situation, you should periodically empty these glands. The frequency will depend on how quickly matter builds up. When the anal glands are full you can actually feel the semi-hard sacs on wither side of the rectum. The contents of the anal gland have a very vile odor, so it is best to empty them immediately before bathing the dog, or have soap and water solution available to sponge bathe the rectal area as you empty the glands. To empty the glands, stand the dog on a firm surface with his hindquarters toward you. Grasp the dogs tail with one hand and hold it up. With the other hand place a piece of cotton, gauze pad, or several tissues over the rectal area and, with your thumb and forefinger, press slightly inward (towards the dogs body) on either side of the rectal opening. Gradually squeeze your fingers together toward the rectal opening and outward, away from the dogs body. Repeat this procedure until no more fluid is expressed. *

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Nails: It is important to keep your dogs nails short, both for his comfort, and to prevent his feet from splaying which allows debris and stones to catch between his pads. The Dachshund has a compact foot designed for crossing tough terrain while in pursuit of game. To help keep the foot this way, short nails are a necessity. From the standpoint of the house pet, short nails do not scratch your furniture, catch on clothing, rugs, bedding or upholstery. The easiest nail clipper to use is a RESCO NAIL CLIPPER. This is a guillotine-type blade instrument available at most pet supply places. Most people are afraid to cut the dogs nails for fear of making the dog bleed. Powdered nail clotting material is also available from most pet supply dealers. (Have your breeder or veterinarian demonstrate the best length and technique if this is your first time.)

trim the pointed tip

guillotine style

plier style

grinder

The dogs nail has a very broad base and then a definite point where the nail suddenly begins to taper. It is at this point that the nail should be cut. If you do cut the nail too short and it begins to bleed, take a pinch of the powdered nail clotting material and press it on the end of the nail. This powder is an coagulant and will stop bleeding quickly. The freshly cut edges of the nails can be smoothed with a nail file. Some breeders will use small handheld grinders instead of tail trimmers. This enables them to grind the nail short and smooth. It may take a few sessions for the dog to become accustomed to the noise and vibration but leaves a nicely groomed appearance to the nails and feet. Bathing: Place a rubber mat in the bottom of the bathtub or sink to provide sure footing for the dog. Place a drop of mineral oil in each eye to protect against the possibility of irritation should you accidentally get shampoo in the eyes. A spray hose attachment facilitates wetting and rinsing the dog; a sponge or wash cloth will allow you to wash the head, ears and muzzle without getting shampoo in the eyes.
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Select a good quality shampoo to use. Wet the dogs coat with tepid water, apply the shampoo and work into a rich lather. The dog will enjoy a brisk massage with the shampoo and it is good for his coat and skin. Rinse and shampoo again. Be sure to rinse the dog thoroughly since any shampoo residue will cause dryness, flaking and itching. Towel dry the dog, or you may use a hair dryer set on the lowest setting to complete the drying process. Special Bathing Procedure: For dry/flaking skin; apply baby oil or bath oil (or breeder recommended product) and brush it into the coat thoroughly. Leave this on for a few hours, then bathe the dog as usual. Dry or brittle coat on the Longhair Dachshund; use the same procedure as outlined above, but follow the bath with a good quality crme rinse. Leave the crme rinse on the coat for 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. SHOW GROOMING OF THE LONGHAIR DACHSHUND Curly, wavy or fly-away coat of the hair on the back of the front legs should be combed toward the back of the body. If the coat is too profuse and tends to protrude to the sides, use thinning shears until the coat does comb back. It is also helpful to frequently dampen this hair and comb it back in order to train the hair growth. The hair on the back of the thighs should also be long and full, but not protruding outward to the side of the legs. Use the thinning shears to blend this coat into the upper thigh area. Feet: Cut the hair on the bottom of the feet even with the pads. With the foot placed securely on a firm surface, trim the foot with a straight scissor. The desired look is a rounded, compact foot. You may have to scissor the top of the foot in the area of the nails to remove wispy hairs which stick up over the nails. Do not cut the hair in an outline around the nails; rather, cut so as to blend this hair into a fully coated rounded appearance.

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Tail: The coat of the Longhair Dachshund should reach its greatest length on the underside of the tail. Therefore, little is done to the tail other than combing and brushing to maintain its condition. PET GROOMING OF THE LONGHAIR DACHSHUND Combing the back of the neck and body with a MAGNET STRIPPING BLADE on a regular basis will remove dead hair and undercoat and keep the coat in good condition. Scissor the hair on the bottom of the feet even with the pads to keep dirt and debris from accumulating. Use a thinning shear to shorten the hair on the sides of the neck where the coat growth from the back of the neck joins the front of the neck. Regular, but not frequent, bathing followed by a crme rinse and lots of brushing will keep the coat in good, shining condition.

comb

curved edge

straight-edge blunted tip

straight-edge pointed tip

thinning shears

SHOW GROOMING OF THE SMOOTH DACHSHUND The Smooth (short haired) Dachshund has a short, thick, shiny coat. Very little grooming is required in order to show this variety. Head: Use a straight shear with rounded tips to cut the whiskers on the muzzle (optional), over the eyes, on the cheeks, and on the underside of the jaw. These whiskers should be cut very close to the skin.

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Neck: If the dog has a particularly thick coat, you may have to scissor the stray hairs on both sides of the neck where the coat growth from the back of the neck joins the growth from the front. You may also have to trim the wispy hairs that may protrude at the point of the breastbone. This may be done with either straight edge scissors or thinning shears. Cut slowly and carefully so that you do not leave a bare spot or sharp line where you have scissored. Tail: If the hair on the underside of the tail is thick and unkempt looking trim with scissors or thinning shears to give a sleek tapered look. Feet: Trim any hair that may protrude on the underside of the feet so that the hair is even with the pads. A light spray of coat dressing oil, or a small amount of baby oil rubbed on your hands and then applied to the coat, will add luster and sheen to the coat. PET GROOMING OF THE SMOOTH DACHSHUND The Smooth Dachshund who is not being shown requires practically no grooming to be the ideal house pet. He should be bathed occasionally and brushed often to keep the skin healthy and the coat glowing.

SHOW GROOMING THE WIREHAIRED DACHSHUND According to the Breed Standard for Dachshunds, With the exception of the jaw, eyebrows, and ears, the whole body is covered with a perfectly uniform, tight, short, thick, rough, hard coat, but with finer shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between the coarser hairs, resembling the coat of the German Wirehaired Pointer. There should be a beard on the chin. The eyebrows are bushy, on the ears the hair is shorter than on the body, but in any case conforming to the rest of the coat. The general arrangement of the hair should be such that
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the Wirehaired Dachshund, when seen from a distance should resemble the smooth haired. In grooming the Wirehaired Dachshund, you are attempting to enhance the Dachshund shape of the body and emphasize the wire characteristics. There are basically two methods of grooming the Wirehaired Dachshund ~ plucking and stripping, or a combination of both. Plucking consists of using the thumb and index finger to pull out the longer coat hairs. Stripping is done with a stripping knife. There are many types of stripping knives available. You must find the one most comfortable for you to use. Stripping is done by placing the knife against the coat, catching a small amount of hair against the blade with your thumb and pulling the longer hairs out of the coat. With either method, small amounts of hair should be done at a time and the hair should be pulled in the direction of coat growth with quick jerking motion. Never pluck or strip the hair against the direction of coat growth. When you plan to remove a great deal of the coat, referred to as taking the coat down, you should do the major work eight to twelve weeks before the date of the show. The rate of coat growth differs from dog to dog, so you might have to experiment to determine the best time schedule for your dog. Once you get the coat in show condition, you can maintain it by stripping or plucking the longer hairs on a weekly basis. This removes any dead hair and allows for constant new growth of hair. This method is called rotation of the coat. Head: The head should be stripped or plucked from just behind the eyebrows, over the top of the skull and down into the neck area, between the eyes, and the cheek area from the outer corner of the eye to the corner of the lip. Stray hairs at the inner corner of the eye should be removed and the eyebrows should be longer at the inside corner of the eye tapering to the outside corner of the eye where they are flush with the skull structure. The eyebrows should be short enough to allow the eyes to be readily seen. Since the overall head structure should be uniformly tapered, it may be necessary to thin out the beard to achieve this look. It is also possible to
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remove some of the coat from the center of the under jaw to allow the beard to lie closer against the muzzle. Since the overall head structure should be uniformly tapered, it may be necessary to thin out the beard to achieve this look. It is also possible to remove some of the coat from the center of the under jaw to allow the beard to lie closer against the muzzle. Ears: Remove all the longer hairs from the outside and underside of the ear. This will leave a very short undercoat on the ear. Usually this hair has to be removed only once or twice; it does not tend to grow back. The hair on the inside of the ear where the ear joins the cheek should be scissored very close to the skin to allow the ear to lie flat against the cheek. Neck: The longer hairs on the neck should be stripped or plucked under the chin and down the throat to the breast bone, along the sides of the neck; and on the back of the neck, blending into the shoulder area. Body: The body coat is kept a little longer that the head and neck ~ about ? to ? inches long. Stripping or plucking should be done from the neck area along the topline and sides to the tail. The underside of the body should be plucked or stripped to conform to the rest of the body. Do not leave great length of coat here is it will look like a skirt. If the dog does not have a deep chest, groom the coat on the underside of the body so that the chest area is slightly longer, and taper it up into the loin area. Tail: The tail should be plucked or stripped to give an even tapered look. Since the underside of the tail may be sensitive, you may wish to use thinning shears on this area. When using any type of scissor always cut with the growth of the hair, never against it. Be sure to cut the hairs around the anus for a neat appearance, which conform with the rest of the grooming. Legs: The hair on the legs should conform to the body coat, but may be just a little longer, Judicious plucking or stripping of the longer hairs should be done to enhance the full wire coat growth.
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Feet: Use straight scissors to trim the hair on the bottom of the feet even with the pads. With the foot place securely on a flat surface, use a straight edge scissor to trim the hair around the foot. The desired effect is one of a rounded, compact foot. PET GROOMING OF THE WIREHAIR DACHSHUND You can achieve the same result in the appearance of the dog by using a clipper. However, in most instances, you will not be able to maintain the harsh texture of the coat with this method. Clippering is a time saving method of keeping the dog neat while general conforming to the desired look of the Wirehaired Dachshund. Follow the same pattern of grooming as outlined above using the following blades: HEAD, UNDERSIDE OF THE NECK and EARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .#10 BACK OF THE NECK, BODY and TAIL . . . . .#5 (leaves hair 1/2 long) Or #7 (leaves hair 1/4 long) EYEBROWS and BEARD . .Scissor these to the desired shape and length

stripping tool

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED YOUR DACHSHUND This decision demands a great deal of thought. Aside from the fact that having a litter will not make Gretchen a better dog and that accurate bookkeeping on the cost of a litter will reveal a deficit rather than enough profit to put the kids through college, the outstanding fact remains that the world does not need more dogs. Reports estimate that annually more than twenty million pets are euthanized for reasons that are not medical. Most of these were produced by the casual breeder, if you will, or the non-responsible pet owner. Will your litter contribute to the problem of the burgeoning numbers of unwanted pets? Will your litter be a credit to the breed? The world does not need more dogs and the
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Dachshund fancy only needs better Dachshunds. The mating of purebred dogs should be aimed towards producing improved quality in both temperament and body structure. It should also be based on a thorough knowledge of the breed and the principles of sound breeding. If these factors are not present then the breeding should not be carried out. SO YOU WANT TO SHOW DOGS Because they are fewer in number, show quality Dachshund are likely to cost more. Breeders are sometimes even reluctant to part with show prospects in an outright sale and may offer co-ownerships or other breeders terms. A true show prospect could be vital to the breeding program the breeder has planned. Once you have acquired your Dachshund with show potential, you can be sure that the breeder will be helpful in getting you both into the ring. Match shows are a good place to start for both you and your dog. Your local kennel club probably sponsors at least one match a year, as well as one point show. In addition to kennel clubs for all purebred dogs, there are breed clubs specializing in single breeds. To find the kennel clubs and Dachshund Clubs near you, contact the American Kennel Club, 260 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10010, www.akc.org on the internet or through the DCA web site at www.dachshund-dca.org. Through these clubs, you will surely get all the help and information you need to begin the quest for the championship title for your Dachshund. ENJOYING A DOG SHOW If you are attending a dog show for the first time, you will be fascinated with the great number and variety of dogs that you will see. After a tour of the benches, or the show grounds, you will be drawn to the judging rings and wonder at the activity going on there. Here you will see a number of dogs being posed, paraded up and down by intense handlers, checked front and back individually, then against each other by a very serious person who is the judge. Equally serious are the people showing off their dogs, hoping to win his/her approval and the coveted ribbons he/she will award. Finally, the judge indicates which dogs have won and a burst of applause may greet his/her decision. You may wonder why the cute little dog appealed so much and you did not win anything.and you may wonder what it is all about. If you under 21

stand what is going on, what a dog show is all about and why it is so important to the people who exhibit, you will certainly get more enjoyment out of the show. That is the purpose of this chapter, to help you understand and enjoy a dog show. The primary purpose of a dog show is to enable dog owners to exhibit their dogs in competition with others of its kind. The ultimate objective is to improve the quality of all purebred dogs. An intelligent breeding program, using the dogs, which have proven through such competition, to be the better representatives of their breeds, achieves this goal. A dog show is a huge elimination contest. There are many contests taking place in every dog show. These may be the winning of blue ribbons, the winning of championship points, the Best of Breed and Best of Group honors and awards. A sanctioned, or licensed, dog show is for purebred dogs only and they must be registered or eligible for registration in the American Kennel Club. To be accepted, the entry form must show the dogs individual registration number (or the litter registration number until the final registration process is completed). While dog shows are sometimes referred to as canine beauty contests there is much more that just the surface beauty to be considered. In 2006, there are 153 breeds of dogs are recognized by the American Kennel Club. Each of these breeds has its own standard of perfection. The judge takes account of two main factors. He judges the dogs against the standard for that breed and he judges the dogs against each other. He tries to pick those dogs which are nearest to ideal type, and which are sound both physically and mentally. The rules require that the judge personally examine each dog. He must check their teeth, eyes, hair coat, and must determine that the males have both testicles normally descended into the scrotum. If a dog is limping in the ring, it is mandatory that the judge excuse it from further judging. Any dog that attempts to bite the judge will also be excused. There are regular classes for each breed. MALES ARE JUDGED SEPARATELY FROM FEMALES IN ALL REGULAR CLASSES. The
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classes are as follow: Puppy, Novice, Bred-By-Exhibitor, American-Bred and Open. (In dachshunds, the Open classes are divided into Open Miniature and Open Standard.) Puppy classes are divided by age: six to nine months and nine to twelve months. The Novice class is for dogs six months of age or over which have not won three first prizes in Novice class, a first in Bred-By-Exhibitor, American-bred, or Open, nor one or more points towards their championship. The Bred-by-Exhibitor class is for dogs which are owned by the breeder and are shown by the breeder or a member of his/her immediate family (husband, wife, father, son, daughter, brother, sister). The American-bred class is for all dogs except champions whelped in the United States by reason of mating that took place in this country. The *Open class is for any dog, six months of age or older, that has not completed its championship. *Foreign bred dogs must enter this class, except that Canadian-bred puppies can enter the Puppy class. Some breeds have the Open class divided by color as well as miniature and standard, including Dachshunds. The winner of each class gets a blue ribbon and is then eligible to compete in the Winners classes. The judge picks the best male for Winners Dog and the best female for Winners Bitch. A dog (or bitch) which has been beaten only by the winner of the Winners class can then come in to compete for Reserve Winners against the remaining first prize winners. Best of Breed competition brings together already recognized AKC champions of sexes, plus the Winners Dog and Winners Bitch. The judge then makes his choice from this group for Best of Breed. If his selection is a male for Best of Breed, the judge then selects a bitch for Best of Opposite Sex. If the Winners Dog or Winners Bitch is not selected as Best of Breed, the judge then selects either the dog or the bitch as Best of Winners. This same procedure takes place in every breed entered in the show. Thus, if there were ten different Hound breeds entered, there would be ten Best of Breed winners. These ten would then be called back into the ring to be judged against each other, to decide which dog is the one best qualified to represent all of the Hounds. The one placed first, as in the other six breed groups, becomes eligible to enter the finals for that highest of dog show competition, Best In Show.

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The seven outstanding specimens are now paraded before the judge who must decide on just one of them for the coveted Best Dog In Show! In this way a show that started with 3,000 dogs ends up with one grand champion at that event! To become a champion, a dog must win 15 champion points. Points are earned only by placing first in the Winners class (Winners Dog or Winners Bitch). However, the dog chosen Best of Winners is entitled to the higher of points won in the two sexes. Championship points are awarded on a scale drawn up by AKC. The country is divided into four groups, the points for each breed are figured on the basis of national registrations and previous show entries for that area. All show catalogs are required to carry the scale of points for all breeds in the section of the country where the show is held. This may vary for dogs and bitches in the same breed. Five points is the largest number that can be won at any show. There is one other way in which a dog can win championship points, If a dog comes through the classes, wins Best of Breed, then wins First in his Group, he is entitled to the maximum number of points awarded to any other dog in that group. A check system to prevent cheap championships is set by the provision that a dog must win two shows with three points (also referred to as a Major) or more under at least two different judges. Thus, a dog must be shown in stiff competition before it can win the coveted title of Champion. It is important to note, again, the versatility of the Dachshund. Do not forget that the Dachshund can compete in other areas such as Obedience, Rally, Agility, Tracking, Field trial and Earth dog events. Whether you choose to compete in conformation shows or not, these other areas are challenging and fun. The reward of seeing your dog using the keen hunting skills for which he/she was bred and/or demonstrate his/her ability as a trained companion is beyond words. (If you choose to have your dog neutered or spayed, you can still compete in these areas.) Working with your dog in any or all of these performance events will also result in a bond that is hard to break. Training tips and articles are available in DCAs booklet, Versatility Certificate, an award program designed by DCA to recognize the achievements of the Dachshund.

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Tracking

Obedience

Rally Agility Earthdog

If you wish to enter a dog show, check with one of the national dog magazines, AKC web site (www.akc.org), DCA web site (www.dachshund-dca.org) or DCA Newsletter for the list of upcoming Field shows. This list will give the dates of the shows, the superintendent, one or more of the club officers and their address. You then write for entry blanks and premium lists, which have all the pertinent information on judges and prizes offered at the shows. Lists are distributed six weeks ahead of the show date and entries closed three weeks prior to the show. Fix to six days before the show you will receive a receipt for your entry, which will serve as identification which you must present for you and your dog to enter the show. If the show is benched, stalls will be provided in which the dog(s) must be kept during show hours. Your identification will show your stall number and the deadline hour for getting your dog into the show. If the show in unbenched, the dog(s) may be kept with you anywhere on the showgrounds (there may be specific Club instructions). Your identification slip may tell you that you may leave as soon as you are not needed any longer. The AKC recognizes 153 breeds, which are divided into seven groups. They are classified, more or less, by the kind of work the dogs were intended to perform. In addition, there is a Miscellaneous Classification for breeds known to be purebred but which are so rare in the United
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States that no place for them has been made in the stud book. As the breeds become more popular, the AKC may assign them to a regular class. BREED AND VARIETY PHOTO SECTION Miniature - Longhair

Longhair- black and tan - miniature

Longhair - red - miniature

Longhair - chocolate and tan Dapple

Longhair Dapples chocolate and tan left/right) black and tan (middle)

Longhair - Sable
(Note: looks black and tan but when the hair is parted, base of hair shaft coloration proves this is sable)

Longhair - Brindle

Longhair (and a wire) Cream

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Standard - Longhair

Longhair Black and Tan

Longhair Clear Red

Longhairs Adults and Pups

Longhair - clear red and reds with dark overlay

Recessive Longhair

Miniature - Smooth

Smooth - Miniature Chocolate and Tan

Smooth - Miniature Black and Tan Dapple

Smooth Miniature Brindle

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Miniature - Smooth Miniature Chocolate and Tan Dapple

Standard - Smooth

Red (adolescent)

Standard Smooth headpiece

Black and Tan (Adult)

Black and Tan

Miniature - Wire

Miniature - Wire - Red Miniature - Wire - Wheaten Miniature - Wire Black and Tan

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Miniature - Wire Black and Tan

Standard - Wire

Wire - Pups Standard - Wire Wild Boar Standard - Wire Wild Boar

Wire puppies hunting

Standard - Wire - Wild Boar

Smooth and Wire puppies playing

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Thank You
DCA wishes to thank members and others who contributed to this booklet: DCA members and DCAWeb Site breed photo contributors and Illustrated Standard drawings DCSAV for show and performance photos

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Notes

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Notes

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