ISSUE #29

CONTENTS
CEOs Letter / 05
Fiona Jenvey, Mudpies CEO

MPD Sources: South Korean Up & Comers / 06

New designers from South Korea

MPD Meets: Marian Kihogo / 08

Blogger, consultant and stylist catches up with MPDClick

MPD Meets: Heather Moore / 12

South African textile designer and founder of Skinny LaMinx

06
MPD Hotspot: Paris / 14
Paris Fashion Week special

MPD OneToWatch: Brightly Coloured Korea / 20

Mi-Zo, Hyesoo You & Kyungsun Byun

MPD Focus: Kaleidoscope / 24

Middle Eastern tiling becomes a strong design influence

MPD Look: Spirit Warrior / 28

Looking to ethereal and layered styles for inspiration

14

MPD Highlight: London Fashion Week / 30

Behind the scenes at LFW

MPD Highlight: Best of Street / 32

Hottest looks from around the shows

For further information on our products and services please visit www.mudpie.co.uk, email us at enquire@mudpie.co.uk or call us on +44 1794 344040 Why not follow us on twitter: @mudpietrends, facebook: mpdclick street trends and linked in

MPD Highlight: The Seasons Key Looks / 34

The very best from the seasons runways so far

24
March 2011 / 03

CEOS LETTER
Today we live in interesting times. As change sweeps through the Middle East, is it still business as usual for the fashion world? It certainly seems so; following New York Fashion Week the Arab world have also just concluded their own fashion week, with exhibits by emerging designers from Lebanon, Saudi Arabia and Dubai with no mention of the unrest in the region. This was not the case in New York, where the Fashion Week coincided with the resignation of the president of Egypt. According to Sally Singer, editor-in-chief of the New York Times Style Magazine; people will want to mark the changes in the Middle East by dressing differently. On the day thatHosni Mubarak resigned there was huge excitement buzzing around the designers at New York Fashion Week; the Middle East will be the next big thing. The fashion industry has challenges to face in the supply chain, however; widespread worker unrest has been reported in textile mills across Egypt and Turkey, while a surge in international cotton prices of almost 45% between the start of the year and mid-February has dealt another blow.Appropriately this edition of mpdinsight is a creative bazaar, combining a myriad of influences curated from almost every continent. On the eve of Paris Fashion Week we identify Paris as this issues Hotspot. Closer to home, following news that this year at London Fashion Week 33% of press accreditations were given to bloggers, compared with last years 22%, we interview Marian Kihogo to find her view on the blogging phenomenon her eponymous blog, mariankihogo.com, is one of fashions most influential. Continuing with influences for autumn, we interview the South African illustrator Heather

Fiona Jenvey, CEO of Mudpie, considers the impact that recent protests in the Middle East will have on the regions design and textile output, as well as the other articles in this months issue.
Moore speaks to mpdclick about her work. Heathers brand, Skinny LaMinx, is stocked worldwide and is influenced by the craft like aesthetic normally associated with Scandinavia. Looking forward to A/W 12/13, we cite South Korea as an influence for Synthesise, our technology trend. In fashion terms we are influenced by the K-Pop movement, and the graphic artist Minori Murakami, however it is innovation that is Koreas most exciting export and our article on South Koreas finest exports identifies the nation as the worlds most advanced region for emerging creativity. Northern Europe influences the latest A/W 11 Spirit Warrior look which has sent maxi lengths and fluid draped fabrics sweeping down the worlds runways we look at the American designer Mara Hoffman for inspiration in our article Spirit Warrior which confirms the Primal trend which we forecast for AW 11/12. A trend which sits perfectly with fashions reawakening affinity with nature.

Fiona Jenvey, CEO

March 2011 / 05

Sources
DOII PARIS/SEOUL
1F, 525-23 SINSA-DONG, GANGNAM-GU, SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA TEL: +82 2 555 1012 WWW.DOIIPARIS.COM

GROUNDWAVE
B1 546-24, SINSA-SONG GANGNAM-GU, 135-880 SEOUL SOUTH KOREA TEL: +82 25 1765 90

GROUNDWAVE
AFTER CAUSING A STIR AT SEOUL FASHION WEEK WITH THEIR ASYMMETRIC CUTS AND DRAPED SILHOUETTES, KIM SUN HO AND PARK JUNG EUN CONTINUE TO INSPIRE WITH THEIR GROUNDWAVE LINE. THE DUOS SPRING/SUMMER 11 COLLECTION PROVES PARTICULARLY RELEVANT TO MPDCLICKS UPCOMING TECHNOLOGYDRIVEN TREND WITH A FUSION OF CONTRASTING FABRICS INCLUDING TRADITIONAL WITH ARTIFICIAL, PUSHING AN INDUSTRIAL HI-TECH AESTHETIC. A SELECTIVE NEUTRAL COLOUR PALETTE ALLOWED THE DYNAMIC FABRIC USE TAKE CENTRE STAGE. GROUNDWAVE PROVIDE INSPIRATION THROUGH THEIR IMMACULATE ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND MODERN CASUAL TAILORING, WHICH HAS BEEN ADMIRED THROUGHOUT THEIR SHOWS IN BOTH ITALY AND PARIS.

GENERAL IDEA
BUMSUK CHOI, THE FACE BEHIND GENERAL IDEA BECAME THE YOUNGEST DESIGNER TO JOIN SEOUL FASHION WEEK IN 2004 AT THE TENDER AGE OF 24. HE HAS SINCE BUILT UP AN INTERNATIONAL BRAND AND GONE ON TO SHOW AT THE PRESTIGIOUS NEW YORK FASHION WEEK. THE CONCEPT BEHIND HIS BRAND CELEBRATES AVANT-GARDE DESIGN WITH AN URBAN EDGE, ENSURING HIS CLOTHING RETAINS COMMERCIAL APPEAL. CHOI HAS WRITTEN TWO BOOKS SPURRED BY HIS PASSION FOR DESIGN, INTRODUCING HIS INSPIRATIONS & INFLUENCES AND CHRONICLING HIS JOURNEY TO INTERNATIONALLY DISTINGUISH HIS BRAND.

YOUNG LI LEE
LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION GRADUATE YOUNG LI LEE IS ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING NEW TALENTS TO EMERGE FROM SOUTH KOREA. THE YOUNG DESIGNER WAS AWARDED THE HIGHLY COMMENDED AWARD AT LCFS 2010 FINAL MA SHOW FOR HER WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION. THE WAVE OF A WOMANS HAIR COMBINED WITH A FRENCH ROPE SCULPTING TECHNIQUE WAS USED TO CREATE PATTERNS, GIVING THE GARMENTS A VOLUMINOUS STRUCTURE. THE OVERRIDING MOOD PUSHED A SENSE OF SOPHISTICATED ELEGANCE WITH A MODERN LADY-LIKE AESTHETIC, WITH SPECIAL MENTION GIVEN FOR HER EXQUISITE DRESSES THAT INCLUDED INTRICATELY PLEATED APPLIQUS.

GENERAL IDEA
663-4 5F SINSA-DONG, GANGNAM-GU, SEOUL 135-897, SOUTH KOREA TEL: +82 2546 6414 WWW.GENERALIDEA.COM.KR

THE CENTAUR
401 BY 1F #15, DOSAN TOWER, EULJIRO 6 GA JUNG-GU SEOUL SOUTH KOREA TEL : +82 23 398 5760 WWW.THECENTAUR.CO.UK.KR

JUUN J
3F RAEMIAN BUILDING 524-17, SINSA-DONG, GANGNAM-GU, 135-888 SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA TEL +82 2515 0351/0343 WWW.JUUNJ.COM

YOUNG LI LEE
STOCKED AT SELFRIDGES 400 OXFORD ST LONDON W1A 1AB TEL: +44 0800 123 400 WWW.SELFRIDGES.COM

SOUTH KOREAS UP AND COMERS

With Seoul Fashion Week continually growing, South Korea is quickly becoming recognised as an emerging fashion capital, alongside the likes of London, New York, Paris or Milan. New fashion talents are constantly emerging from the country, gaining global attention with many showcasing their collections worldwide. Mpdclick pick six of our favourite up & coming designers. Words by Amy Trayford

JUUN J
SHOWCASING HIS COLLECTIONS IN PARIS SINCE 2007, SOUTH KOREAN CREATIVE JUUN JS INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION AS A MENSWEAR DESIGNER CONTINUES TO FLOURISH. THE DESIGNER LAUNCHED HIS OWN LINE IN 1999 UNDER THE NAME LONE COSTUME, CHANGING IT SIMPLY TO JUUN J IN 2006. HIS SIGNATURE STYLE INCLUDES A STRONG MILITARY AESTHETIC, OFTEN FEATURING STRAPS, STRUCTURED SHOULDERS AND TRENCH COATS, REFLECTIVE OF HIS COMPULSORY MILITARY SERVICE IN SOUTH KOREA. JUUN J CONTINUES TO PROVIDE INSPIRATION THROUGH HIS UNIQUE JUXTAPOSITION OF RIGID STRUCTURING & SOFT SHAPES, SHARP CUTS & LOOSE DRAPING.

THE CENTAUR
YE RANJI, FOUNDER OF THE CENTAUR, IS KNOWN FOR CREATING UNIQUE MULTIMEDIA EXPERIENCES WITH COLLECTIONS AND EXHIBITIONS THAT COMBINE FASHION DESIGN, FILM-MAKING AND PHOTOGRAPHY. ONCE A PART OF THE GENERATION NEXT SHOWCASE FOR EMERGING TALENT IN SOUTH KOREA, YE RANJI FIRMLY BELIEVES THAT UP & COMING DESIGNERS LIKE HERSELF SHOULD OFFER A THRILLING SENSATION. CREDITED WITH CREATING ONLY IDEALISTICALLY DRIVEN COLLECTIONS, THE YOUNG DESIGNER AIMS TO DISCOVER WHAT MUST BE SAID AND WHAT MUST BE KEPT SECRET FOR EACH WOMAN. RANJI S MAIN FOCUS IS TO CREATE A NARRATIVE THROUGH HER WORK, ADDING AN INNOVATIVE AND INTERESTING PERSPECTIVE TO HER PIECES.

DOII LEE
LONDONS CENTRAL ST MARTINS GRADUATE DOII LEES IMPRESSIVE CV BOASTS PLACEMENTS WITH BOTH JOHN GALLIANO AND THE CHRISTIAN DIOR TEAM. LEE WAS THEN PERSONALLY HEADHUNTED BY ANTONIO MARRASS TO WORK AT KENZO. HER EXPERIENCE WORKING WITH THESE ESTABLISHED DESIGNERS, AND THE PASSION SHE DISCOVERED, LED TO THE LAUNCH OF HER OWN LABEL; DOII PARIS IN 2005. HER SUCCESSFUL LINE HAS AN ULTRA FEMININE TOUCH, AIMED AT INDEPENDENT WOMEN WHO ARE DEFINED AS BEING SEXY AND FUN WITH A FEMININE EDGE. LEE HAS SHOWN IN HER HOMELAND OF SOUTH KOREA, AS WELL AS PRESENTING HER COLLECTION TWICE A YEAR AT PARIS FASHION WEEK.

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March 2011 / 07

Meets

Marians expert & eloquent editorial, social media prowess and valued connection with her readers sets her apart from her contemporaries

OPPOSITE: MARIAN KIHOGO & SCREENSHOT FROM MARIANKIHOGO.COM ABOVE: MORE FROM MARIANKIHOGO.COM

MARIAN KIHOGO
This season, one of the main talking points at London Fashion Week is the explosion in the number of bloggers in attendance. To find out more about this phenomenon we caught up with stylist, blogger and consultant Marian Kihogo. Interview by Sarah Wade, Managing Editor

With the much anticipated London Fashion Week setting the British capital abuzz this week, I caught up with one of the events most influential attendees, Marian Kihogo. As some of the worlds elite designers, editors and a welcome spate of rather colourful trends jet in, droves of readers (both industry professionals and enthusiasts alike) access her website daily for the latest news fresh off Londons runways. As a stylist to the stars, contributing editor to PUSH IT magazine and creative consultant helping brands to increase their online presence, Marians website far exceeds the traditional realms of blogging. With interactive polls on fashions latest looks, reader competitions and a behind the scenes peek at top industry events, Marian is passionate about sharing her experiences, insider knowledge and designer lustings with her readers. Blogging, or rather blogging etiquette, is also rather a timely debate as the ready-to-wear shows are upon us, and a subject close to Marian. A post last year on mariankihgog.com highlighted difference between the hoards of new, often unqualified attendees and an industry professional that just happens to blog, Do they

know how to properly review a collection? Are they using the right lingo and technical language? she questions. Recently, The Times published an article stating last February, 22 per cent of the total press accreditations granted by the British Fashion Council to LFW were given to bloggers. This year, the number has increased to 33 per cent. As the blogger debate rages on, Marians expert combination of sartorially eloquent editorial, social media prowess and valued connection with her readers sets her apart from her contemporaries. Hi Marian, what have you been doing today? I have been covering fall winter 2011 shows at New York Fashion Week. I just saw the Nanette Lepore show and will be seeing the Milly by Millicent Smith and Elie Tahari show later today. This morning I attended the Daisy Eau So Fresh perfume by Marc Jacobs breakfast launch as hosted by face of the fragrance, Hannah Holman.
March 2011 / 09

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Meets
fashion industry. For budding bloggers and enthusiasts out there, which kind of posts would you say garner the largest reception? That is an interesting question. The record of my personal style and the reasoning behind it as documented in my Style Diary always creates conversation. It is also always interesting to hear the thoughts and views on catwalk trends in the What Say Thou trend poll segments. I think blog readers like to be given the chance to weigh in on fashion, beauty and culture issues. You combine reporting with interactive polls where readers can rate products and trends. To you, how important is this interactivity? Oh it is everything! To me the interaction is truly everything. Blogs allow for that immediate response from ones readership. In my opinion, this is the edge they have over traditional media. It is a wonderful thing to able to interact and converse over what is happening with readers. There is always more than one perspective and if someone living in the middle of nowhere, with no access to fashion can provide a new perspective to something old that for me is Mariankihogo. coms reason for being. How do you feel about the current blogging phenomenon?

Traditional media can come across as dictatorial. Its format does not allow for much interaction Marian Kihogo

Personally I think it is a wonderful thing. Off course with every phenomenon there is the good and bad but the chaff is always blown away. Blogging might have its gimmicks but I believe that blogging will continue to grow as a medium. I think it fills the gap that traditional media can have. Traditional media can come across as dictatorial. Its format does not allow for much interaction. So when done well, blogging can fill that gap. Do you have any favourite fashion bloggers? Yes I do! I like Michelle Bobb-Parris, whose Who is Bobb-Parris street style blog always inspires. I love Emily Weisss Into the Gloss site; the beauty blog is simply wonderful. I check into Sea of Shoes when I can. I think Jane is extremely intelligent and has an interesting point of view. feed off of each other. We see trends like McQueens bumster look that started on the street that get reinterpreted for the catwalk. In that same vein, catwalk trends are translated and personalised by individuals on the street. So fashion off the runway is important; is it as good as the runway? I think that would depend on perspective. Street style could never replace the need for the runway but they work hand in hand. When did an online platform become an important addition for you, and why? I started personal styling in high school, 14 years ago. This developed into styling for editorial while at college. Over time I got into editing fashion online. Online became an important platform for me when I realised that I was intrigued by the interaction it allowed for. The power of print media will never be surpassed but for me digital is a truly incredible tool. On your website, mariankihogo.com, your informed content gives readers behind-the-scenes glimpse at the In your role as a stylist, is there a trusted source that you always turn to for inspiration? What a wonderful question! So many! If I had to choose one it would have to be people as a whole. Even when I was as young as six, Id ask my Mother to take me to the roadside to watch people go by. The inspiration people give me is infinite. From the way someone passing by might have worn their hat, the punk meets preppy girl wearing a Peter Pan collar with pink hair, the bag lady whose bags might give me something new to ponder on, right through to the guy selling sandwiches on the street. My main inspiration has always been people. Whats inspiring you today? The collar like silver necklace by Maria Francesca Pepe that I am wearing today. Marias work is incredible. My pink lipstick (think Barbie pink) and all the acid green hair I keep spotting here at New York Fashion Week!
March 2011 / 011

ABOVE: MARIAN, COURTESY OF LUCKY MAGAZINE/TOMMY AGRIODIMAS OPPOSITE: PHOTO BY MICHELLE BOBB-PARRIS; AT LONDON FASHION WEEK WITH MPDCLICK MANAGING EDITOR SARAH WADE

In between shows, I have been liaising with PR with reference to garments for clients to wear to London Fashion Week. When it is not fashion month, no two days for me are the same. Being a stylist, creative consultant and contributing online editor I am constantly juggling a mix of duties. Everything from styling appointments, meetings with clients with reference to creative consulting, PR appointments etc. As were right at the crux of ready-to-wear season, are there any trends or designers youve been excited to see this season? Being a huge fan of the 1970s palette and luxe glam aesthetic, I am excited to see that this trend will continue on from spring summer 2011 into fall winter 2011-2012. Beauty wise, I have been fascinated by the use of gold and other metallics on brows at Jen Kao, or on hair as we saw at Betsey Johnson and Jason Wu.

What was your NYFW highlight? Thakoon! His mix of prim Victorian structure meets nomadic East African Maasai was thought provoking! From what youve seen so far, how does the mood for autumn/winter 11 feel? It is enthusiastic! What with the brights with neon acids, I lost track of the number of shows with bold colour. The embellishment and use of lace, fringing, embroidery, gold and detail signify a continued move from the pared back austerity that recession influenced. London Fashion Week has a reputation for its street style, with many commenting that the fashion is as good off the runways as on. Whats your opinion on this? I am a big believer in the power of street style. I think street style and the runway has an incredible symbiotic relationship. They

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Meets
Africa where I live, as well as from my online store, and in stores all over the world who buy wholesale from me. Do you have any plans to expand internationally? I sell a lot of things to individuals through my Etsy shop, who come from everywhere, from Alaska to Adelaide. I also sell wholesale to a lot of stores all over the world. There are a number of stores stocking Skinny laMinx in Australia, a couple in the far East, one in Stockholm, and quite a number in the US and in Canada too. My biggest stockist is Heath Ceramics in Sausalito, California. Im a huge fan of their strong mid-century aesthetic and commitment to running an ethical and innovative familyowned business. Comparisons have been drawn between your ranges and those of Scandinavian companies Marimekko and Ikea. Is the African-Swedish aesthetic label a fair one, do you think? Hmm, its an interesting one. My moms best friend is the daughter of Swedish missionaries, and although she also grew up in South Africa, her home is wholly Swedish in style, and I think I soaked this up, possibly as an antidote to the rather culturally bleak South Africanness that was my own heritage. Most pertinent to the African-Swedish idea is my textile range called Sevilla Rock: For a while I worked on some books with a How do you think peoples attitudes towards homeware design has changed over the past few years? It seems to me that the interest in all things vintage and handmade seems to indicate an interest in the story behind the objects in a home, rather than simply an objects value as a marker of status, values, aspiration or style. When we visited New York last year, it was amusing and perplexing for me to see Urban Outfitters selling horrible faux vintage flea market tat, and Im still a bit confused by that. I suppose the people who bought that were investing more in the ironic value of their purchase than in the story behind where they found it and why they like it. Is it important for you to imbue your pieces with a sense of your own personality? Because Im self-taught and learning a great deal about what I do all the time, and because the popularity of my designs grew at the same time as I was blogging about my work, I find it difficult to imagine making a new design just to fit a style or fashion or a gap in the market. I get so much feedback via my blog and online shop from people who have bought my things and really love them that I feel quite close to my customers, probably because I have similar relationships with designer/makers who I admire. Although my business is growing quite quickly, I relate best to businesses that express the heartfelt involvement of the person behind it, and Id like Skinny laMinx to continue to make textiles

The interest in vintage seems to indicate an interest in the story behind the object, rather than as a marker of status Heather Moore
friend who is very knowledgeable about the ancient San Rock paintings in the caves of Sevilla in the Cederberg mountains. Previously I regarded them as part of the dusty, bleak, sunbaked South Africa that I didnt like being part of as a child. Now, however, I could see how sensitively observed and executed many of these ancient drawings were; I had the idea of taking them out of their context as archaeological artefacts, and combining them with my enjoyment of clean, simple Scandinavian style, to create a range of contemporary homeware textiles. I hoped this change of context might perhaps alert other people to the artistry of ancient San artists; someone once said I should call the range San-dinavian designs! The other African-Swedish link is a bit of an amusing one. We dont have IKEA in South Africa, and as far as Im concerned, it leaves a huge gap in our homewares market, as theres no place to buy well-designed, affordable furniture here. Somebody sent me an IKEA catalogue, and after being somewhat overwhelmed by the sheer choice therein, I decided to draw all the things I would buy if we did have IKEA. I then turned these drawings into a tea towel design called I Wish we had IKEA. It seemed to strike a chord with people even outside of South Africa, and even ended up on a museum exhibition in Hamburg last year called Phenomen IKEA. that are both well-designed and attractive, as well as full of enthusiasm and story. The cutout element of your work reminds us slightly of origami and the Far East - is the Orient a particular influence on you also? Im pretty much in awe of Japan, and would love to visit one day, although I expect to be totally overwhelmed. I think my clean line and simple style and use of flat planes do have a bit of a graphic Asian feel, but its possibly just a coincidence of the way I use materials. The mounting relationship, both creatively and economically, between the countries within the African continent and the rising China provide a key focus for Mpdclicks trend for AW12/13: Remix. With South-South expansion of trade business opportunities said to be expected to bring in $2.6 trillion annual revenues by 2020; indicators show this to be a potentially profitable venture, both financially and creatively. What are your thoughts on this idea? Its such an interesting idea, and I kind of went oh, duh when I read this as a trend youve identified. But thats not because Ive seen any evidence of it emerging in my environment, but just because it seems so very inevitable sometime in the future.
March 2011 / 013

HEATHER MOORE
South Africa-based Heathers blog and website, skinnylaminx.com, is one of the industrys most prolific print resources. Interview by Sarah Wade, Managing Editor

Forecasting trends for autumn/winter 2011/12, Mpdclick predicts an energetic blend of inspirations that centre on the growing connection between the countries within Africa and rising superpower China. This issue of MpdInsight focuses on this relationships effect on creative inspiration, citing South African Heather Moores textile and product designs as a rich source of stimulation. I caught up with Heather to find out a little more about her brand Skinny laMinx and get her thoughts on this burgeoning collaborative trend. Hi Heather, can you explain a little more about what you do? Im a self-taught illustrator turned self-taught surface designer. Over the past four or five years, Ive been coming up with designs, screenprinting them onto fabric and making them up into homewares like tea towels, cushions and aprons under my label Skinny laMinx. More recently, Ive begun producing running metres of my fabrics available for home furnishing use. My products and fabrics are available for sale in Cape Town, South

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Hotspots

PARIS
Paris is officially the worlds most visited city; each year millions of tourists travel to the French capital, widely considered to be the lovers capital of the world. The Paris they seek is one of drama, intrigue and romance, yet it is also a global hotspot of art, fashion, cuisine and culture. To coincide with the beginning of Paris Fashion Week we bring you a selection of things to see and do around the city. Words by James Samuel-Camps 014 / March 2011
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Hotspots

1
1_THE ACCOMMODATION HOTEL SEZZ A stylish boutique hotel with 26 rooms spread across 7 floors. Attention to detail is exquisite - chairs and stools in swept chrome by Driade, beds specially made by Artelano in sumptuous tones of burgundy and chocolate brown and a myriad of gadgets all add up to a bachelor pad experience at Sezz. Design comes courtesy of Christophe Pillet; once a protg of Philippe Starck, Pillets aesthetic leaves Sezz with a subtly masculine feel. Image: komingup.com 2_THE STORE COLETTE Virtually a Parisian institution, Colette is a must visit for fashionistas, no excuses. Adorning the shelves, you will find high-end brands such as Comme des Garcons, Moncler and Lanvin alongside premium streetwear brands, as well as lifestyle items such as albums, cameras, books and even art supplies. Add in a restaurant with a continually-changing menu that stocks over 100 kinds of water and it becomes clear that Colette is a tourist destination in itself that is perfect for hipper-than-thou consumers. Image: limitedhype.com 3_THE DESIGNER PEDRO LOURENCO

The roster at Paris Fashion Week reads like a whos-who of international fashion; with the likes of Balmain, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent exhibiting, it can be somewhat daunting to join the line-up as a newcomer. Luckily, Pedro Loureno has managed to pass the test with his last two collections. The 19-year-old Brazilian focuses heavily on architectural and futuristic interpretations of fashion; his glossy fabrics, clean-cut geometrics and transparencies combine to create a bold, extruded look raved about by critics, cementing his place as one-to-watch. Image: mpdclick.com 4_THE ARCHITECTURE CITE DE LA MODE ET DU DESIGN Designed by Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane, the Cit was inspired by the various flows of the site, the Seine and promenades along the river banks. In a revamp of the Magasins Gnraux, a group of industrial buildings on the Left Bank, much of the original structure has remained, adorned with a long, fluid swathe of digitalised green that now houses the Institut Francais de la Mode as well as various design ateliers, shops, cafes and exhibition spaces. Image: flickr.com_ollografik

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Hotspots

5
5_THE DISTRICT MONTMARTRE Montmartre is the name of a hill in the north of the city that gives its name to the surrounding district. As well as having the SacrCoeur basilica atop its summit, Montmartre is host to numerous nightspots, concert halls and music stores; in the 19th Century it was outside the city limits and free of taxes, making it a popular area for nightlife. Two of the more famous examples of entertainment venues are Moulin Rouge and Le Chat Noir, popular cabarets of the time who could count classic artists Vincent van Gogh, Henri de Toulouse-Latrec and Pierre-Auguste Renoir among their patrons. Nowadays, the area maintains that typical bohemian feel and is an ideal place to go to be inspired. Image: flickr.com_bruxelles5 6_THE EVENT PARIS FASHION WEEK Paris Fashion Week is one of the most important regular events that occurs in the city. Many of the worlds top designers converge on the capital for 9 days of ready-to-wear shows this season the show runs from 1-9 March in some of the citys most venerable settings. From Chanel in the Grand Palais (Tuesday 8 March) to Lanvin in the Jardin du Tuileries (Friday 4 March) Paris Fashion Week is, to many, the highlight of the Big Four and as it closes the fashion season, is arguably the most anticipated. Image: mpdclick.com 7_THE MUSEUM PALAIS DE TOKYO This museum of modern & contemporary art is located near the Trocadro in the 16th arrondissement. In the eastern wing lies the Muse dArt Moderne de la Ville de Paris, while the Palais de Tokyo resides in the western wing. The museum also publishes a magazine, Palais, three times a year, centred on a specific artistic theme. In 2011 the museum is undergoing a renovation, due for a general re-opening in spring 2012; in the meantime, the museum is making use of new spaces around the premises. Image: paris-pictures.net 8_THE BLOG EASY FASHION PARIS This 3-year-old street fashion blog is the brainchild of Fred Vielcanet, a Paris-based photographer normally frequenting the Les Halles and Le Marais districts, looking for stylish individuals to photograph. the site not only shows Freds keen eye for a stylish outfit, but does so with some truly gorgeous photography. To so many, words like composition, depth of field and lighting mean nothing, but Easy Fashions photos are so sharp and clean you could cut your finger on one. In Freds words: the Parisians girl style is, for me, a perpetual and never ending quest. Paris is like all bright-lights big cities; very eclectic in styles with all kind of interesting looks, although not always successful. Images: easyfashion.blogspot.com

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OnesToWatch

The composition, proportion play and texture that give Mi-Zos work a hi-tech overtone is a key factor aligning them with Mpdclicks Synthesise trend

OPPOSITE: SHOT FROM A MI-ZO PHOTOSHOOT THAT REALLY DISPLAYS THEIR COMMITMENT TO COLOUR. ABOVE: KYUNGSUN BYUN; MI-ZO

COMMITTED TO COLOUR
South Korea is increasingly regarded as a central focus for design and innovation. Mpdclick highlights its most exciting exports, from photographers and emerging fine artists to the latest lifestyle enhancing technology soon to be inspiring our own design aesthetic. Words by Heather Tuck

First, we look at a creative duo that caught our attention through a wealth of coverage among influential design blogs such as Trendland and Beautiful Decay. Producing fashion editorials, advertisements as well as artwork, Mi-Zo, aka photographer Zoren Gold and graphic artist Minori Murakami revel in a palette of synthetic blends including vibrant turquoise, magenta tones and iced metallics that instantly catch the eye. The bold lines of composition, proportion play and texture give their work a hi-tech overtone, a key factor aligning Mi-Zo with Mpdclicks Synthesise trend. One particular piece of artwork uses layered segments of a photograph to play with transparencies, detail and gradient, while illustrated graphic overlay upon many pieces of their work show further dimensions this trend can take, juxtaposing sleek hi-tech aesthetics with a fun, playful edge for an endless source of garment and homeware design inspiration. The current 4482 exhibition at the Bargehouse in London has driven our focus to two South Korean fine artists; Hyesoo You and Kyungsoo Byun. You, whose work reflects a soft, K-Pop

enthusiasm, presents a series of sculptures entitled Future of the Past. One notable piece combines the structure of Koreas architectural heritage in bold sharp lines with softer, contemporary and multi-coloured airbrushed sections that represent the nations flourishing creativity and sub-cultures. Byun, whose resum is drenched in the classic K-Pop aesthetic and colour palette, takes everyday objects such as motorbikes, cars and wineglasses and saturates them in high octane hues, outlined with a sense of hitech motion. This motion depicts the continuing developments of technology within his homeland while the bold colours pay homage to the vibrant pop culture of the country. Emerging technologies from South Korea are already revolutionising security around the world. Surveillance robots are the latest innovation to receive critical acclaim; already up and running in a crude oil storage facility in Korea, a robot developed under the New Growth Engine Smart Project incorporates CCTV, voice recognition and alarms within one single machine. This security innovation pushes a concept first developed in autumn/ winter 11/12s Primal trend, holding survival and protection as
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OnesToWatch

One notable piece combines the structure of Koreas architectural heritage in bold sharp lines with softer, contemporary and multi-coloured airbrushed sections

ABOVE: HYESOO YOU; HYUNGSUN BYUN OPPOSITE: IMAGES BY MI-ZO

a key visual in future trends. A robotic theme becomes apparent with precise cut layers, bindings wrapping around the bodys core, quilting and wire emulated fastenings and decoration. Mpdclick cite Mi-Zo as a versatile source of inspiration as they continue to push their signature aesthetic using the latest digital advancements demonstrating the highest realms of creativity through 2D visuals, while the possibilities in 3D are unlimited. Hyesoo You exemplifies how to combine heritage and contemporary culture while Kyungsoo Byun shows narrative through the simple technique of motion and colour. The exciting developments of robotic technology reinforce South Koreas position as the benchmark for innovation; Mpdclick cite this advanced region as an oasis of emerging creativity of which we shall be tracking.

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Many of the designs are taken from ancient Islamic architecture; minarets, domes of mosques, palaces, shrines Monir Sharhoudy Farmanfarmaian
OPPOSITE: GONALO MABUNDA, THE HOPE THRONE (2008) THIS PAGE: A FENDI CUSHION THAT PERFECTLY ILLUSTRATES THE EMERGING STYLE; CLOSEUPS TRULY REVEAL HOW INTRICATE THESE WORKS ARE

KALEIDOSCOPE: MIDDLE EASTERN DESIGN

The beautiful intricacy of Middle Eastern tile work is fast becoming an increasingly popular means of fascination and inspiration within the fashion and design world, and as interest in the Middle East continues to grow, the inventive use of geometrics is sure to follow suit, becoming key inspiration for fashion and homewares. Mpdclick looks to key artists currently influenced by Middle Eastern-infused geometrics and consider how these awe-inspiring patterns will evolve and influence in the coming seasons. Words by Kiah Tulloch

The beautiful intricacy of Middle Eastern tile work is fast becoming a major source of fascination and inspiration for the creative industries. These elaborate kaleidoscopes of geometric patterns exude the exoticism of the region, conveying their interwoven history with the cultural traditions of the countries in which they have flourished. Renowned fashion designers have used such visuals as inspiration for graphics, embellishments and silhouettes, while in home & interiors, the patterns have inspired intricate laser-cut details and striking prints.

As interest in the Middle East continues to grow especially in light of recent protests in the region the inventive use of geometrics is sure to escalate. Mpdclick looks to key artists who Ive done a lot of travelling, particularly in the Islamic world, she are currently influenced by Middle Eastern-infused geometrics says. Many of the designs are taken from ancient architecture and consider how these awe-inspiring patterns will evolve and in Cairo, Damascus, Tehran - minarets, domes of mosques, influence in the coming seasons. With talent that speaks for itself palaces, shrines. And I did a lot of travelling inside Iran, studying and a prestigious career spanning more than five decades, it isnt the architecture at Isfahan, Shiraz and Tabriz. The Shah Cheraq difficult to understand why Monir Sharhoudy Farmanfarmaian is shrine in Tabriz and the palace of Golestan were major influences. regarded as one of Irans most inspiring artists; her work has Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaians distinct approach to already become a means of inspiration for the fashion world. fusing traditional Iranian craft and Islamic patterns is stylistically
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For their spring/summer 10 womenswear collection, London label Qasimi was influenced by Farmanfarmaians mosaics, integrating bold geometry into the collection in the form of striking mirror embellishment and strong angular shapes in rich gold and sumptuous colours reminiscent of her work. The 87-year-old artists work conveys a deep-rooted connection with her home country and a great interest in the history of Iranian reverse glass through her cut-glass mosaics. Drawing on a number of other Middle Eastern elements including Muslim mosques and Persian art, Farmanfarmaian creates remarkable mirror mosaics, often accented with the traditional blue and green of Islamic tile work.

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Focus

For their S/S 10 womenswear collection, Qasimi integrated bold geometry, striking mirror embellishment and strong angular shapes

ABOVE: ALL IMAGES FROM QASIMI, SS10 OPPOSITE: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP - MONIR SHARHOUDY FARMANFARMAIAN; ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH, A/W 10/11; SPIRAL DESIGNS BY ZARAH HUSSAIN

exceptional; she is the only contemporary artist to explore mirrored mosaics, geometric patterns and the union of traditional and contemporary in such a unique way. From January 27th 2011 to March 3rd 2011, The Third Line* art gallery in Dubai is playing host to Kaleidoscope, an exhibition of some of Farmanfarmaians most recent mirror mosaics. The exhibition explores her ornate works as well as her recent elevation of interaction resulting in mosaics that can be physically arranged in multiple variations, according to The Third Line. Much like Farmanfarmaiain, Middle Eastern artists Zarah Hussain and Halima Cassell also draw their inspiration from traditional Islamic geometric patterns. Hussains canvas paintings and animations are influenced by the intense beauty of geometry. Her delicately painted oils and watercolours are a contemporary representation of this ancient and sacred form of artistic expression. Her Submission projection recently shown at the Breathing Space exhibition at the Turnpike Gallery in Leigh, U.K. is a contemporary take on the Islamic design rule of infinite

shape and pattern repetition, adding dimension with ongoing movement, shifting position as well as morphing in and out of each other. Halima Cassell works in clay, stone and wood, producing strong geometric sculptures influenced by recurrent Middle Eastern patterns and a passion for architectural geometry. She fuses her Middle Eastern heritage with her upbringing in the United Kingdom as well as her interest in African pattern work. From the skillful mirror work of Farmanfarmaian to the paintings, installations and sculptures of Hussain and Cassell, Middle Eastern geometrics are saturating the contemporary creative landscape. The fusion of traditional Middle Eastern design, an avant-garde edge and influences from other cultures takes this burgeoning geometrics trend to another level and provides crucial inspiration for a wide range of products for coming seasons.

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Look

SPIRIT WARRIOR
Mother immortal or fearless warrior, fashions celebration of the archetypal woman has adopted many guises. In January 2010 Mpdclicks autumn/winter 11/12 fashion forecast considered the dawn of a new consumer age, where reality would be faced and the consequences of fast fashion realised, resulting in a deep affinity with the natural world. Words & Styling by Jen Cox
As the trend starts to take shape, the predicted rejection of frivolity and mass consumption begins to occur and aesthetically the trend adopts a celestial slant as fashion forward females embody the divine spirit of Gaia, the Goddess of Earth and nature. Our initial trend research highlighted an emanating magnetism to pagan ideals as the need for environmental change began to escalate. To accompany this pantheist mind-set entered a dreamy bohemian look characterised by androgynous maxi lengths, fluid draped fabrics and a jubilant festival colour palette. As the autumn/winter season draws closer the trend is set against a mystical terrain and the female identity evolves from that of natures boho disciple to Earths mythical goddess. American designer Mara Hoffmans latest collection showcased at Februarys New York Fashion Week tunes in to this empyrean mood. The ethereal range was inspired by her husband and muse, artist Javier Pinon whose recent exhibition O Babalon explored ideas of Goddess worship and nature centred spiritualism. Through collage, Pinon creates obscure idealised landscapes, lush mythological environments for his mystical cult of Earth mothers to reside. Hoffmans autumn/ winter 11/12 collection redresses her husbands Earth mothers
PENDANT FROM MAX & CHLOE. PRINTED SHAWL FROM ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. VEST FROM J CREW. PRINT TOP FROM TIBI. MAXI SKIRT FROM TOPSHOP. HEADBAND FROM TOPSHOP. SOCKS FROM FOREVER 21. SHOES FROM CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. RING FROM MAX & CHLOE. SCARF FROM ALL SAINTS.

for mass fashion consumption offering Goddess-like layers and fluid drapes and folds with an ultra-modern tribal edge. Diaphanous semi-sheer kaftans and voluminous a-line maxi dresses boast abstract tribal designs and magical feather and dream-catcher motifs along with radial and geometric prints evocative of pagan symbolism. Deep hoods, braided belts and heavy gold plate jewellery enhance a high-priestess identity offering a juxtaposition of strength and heavenly beauty. Further pushing a celestial goddess aesthetic is the exclusive 2011 Pirelli calendar Mythology shot by fashion heavyweight Karl Lagerfeld. The publications striking black and white seminude shots feature a host of a-list actresses and top models posing as Gods, heroes and mythological characters. Amongst the most poignant shots is an image of Italian beauty, model Elisa Sednaoui as Flora the Goddess of flowers and the season of spring. The mythical pagan idol stands as a perfect ambassador for the trend sporting blossoming flora and fauna garlands and gauzy maxi-length robes. As the autumn collections hit the stores expect a tirade of Goddess and Earth mother looks to provide the heavily layered season with a refreshing feminine identity. Billowing tunics and kaftans in spun-gold, raspberry and stratosphere blue come adorned with mesmerising radial patterns and should be styled with sweeping full length skirts boasting sheer layers or soft pleats. Demi-capes and kimono jackets in bronze and gold devor ensure a classical touch while daisy chain headbands and raw stone jewellery provide a contemporary finish and highlight the trends natural roots.
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Georgina Hardinge

Topshop

Bryce Aime

LONDON FASHION WEEK: BEHIND THE SCENES

Charlie le Mindu Here we present a selection of behind-the-scenes images from the Bryce Aime, Charlie le Mindu, Georgina Hardinge, Hasan Hejazi and Topshop shows we attended during London Fashion Week. Photographs by Sarah Wade, Managing Editor

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LONDON

Every week MPDClick brings you the very best street fashion images from around the world. With the current season almost at a close, we are proud to present this street style retrospective, featuring our favourite styles from the three main fashion weeks so far - London, New York and Milan.

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NEW YORK

A / W 11/12 FASHION WEEKS: BEST OF STREET FASHION

MILAN

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THIS SEASONS KEY LOOKS

Our Runway area provides unrivalled analysis of all the top looks to be found on the worlds runways each season. Here, we present just a taste of the must-have styles that we have seen at London, New York and Milans A/W 11/12 Fashion Weeks.

LONDON: EXCEPTIONAL OUTERWEAR

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NEW YORK: CRAFTED KUDOS SEEN AT: PROENZA SCHOULER

MILAN: PAINTED HUES SEEN AT: FENDI

runway
The Runway area provides thousands of images each season from the best international shows; including New York, London, Milan, Paris, Sao Paulo, Sydney and Tokyo. Our comprehensive Runway trend overviews offer insightful analysis of the key shapes, details and themes from all the major ready-to-wear fashion weeks.

trends
Mpdclicks Trends area provides in-depth analysis of real-time and emerging fashion, product and lifestyle trends. Our essential trend forecast for the fashion and home & interiors markets feature the latest colours, textile & graphic inspirations and garment & accessory range plans.

graphics
Keep up-to-date with an ever expanding collection of fully vectorised and editable inspirational graphics, prints, trend related garment shapes and clip art covering all ages and genders available for download in CDR, EPS and AI formats.

colour
The Colour area is an essential start to the season, providing key colour information from leading organisations and respected trade fairs. Inspirational colour palettes, all with Pantone references, and galleries of images are available for fashion, homewares and sports markets as early as two years in advance.

fabric
Our comprehensive fabric reports provide you with the latest in textile and surface design, from the worlds leading textile shows. With fabric shows a season ahead of the fashion sector, our PANTONE colour referenced reports are an essential tool for designing future collections.

trade fair
Mpdclicks Trade Fair area keeps you upto-date with our extensive coverage of the most important international trade shows and exhibitions; providing comprehensive coverage and interpretation from a diverse range of fashion, sportswear, fabric, design and lifestyle shows, and insightful seasonal trade fair trend overviews.

home & interiors

Mpdclicks in-depth coverage of the premier design, homewares and interiors shows across the globe will keep you up-to-date with cutting edge designs of the future. Mpdclick provides valuable insight into everything from innovative product to colour, textile and print developments in addition to extensive architecture trend reviews.

retail
The Retail area provides a look into buying trends from cities across the world at a shopfloor level; providing extensive photo reports and trend analysis of garments and accessories in addition to specialised reports for sportswear, intimates, home & interiors, seasonal ranges and visual merchandising.

business intelligence & news

The Business area provides authoritative and valuable intelligence on consumer behaviours, business trends, financial insights and apparel sourcing developments, covering both influential and emerging economies from across the globe. Our News area is an essential tool to keep professionals on the pulse of the fashion industry.

For more information please visit www.mpdclick.com or contact your nearest agent

distributors

For distribution or more information on any of Mudpies products please contact your nearest agent, or alternatively, email Mudpie enquire@mudpie.co.uk or call +44 1794 344040

_Trend Seminar _Autumn/Winter 12/13

_Presented by CEO Fiona Jenvey _London College of Fashion _9th June 2011 from 10.30am For all enquiries please email seminars@mudpie.co.uk

Argentina - International Textile Consultants www.textileconsultants.com.ar e: info@textileconsultants.com.ar t: +54 11 4704-6618 Australia - Ginger Trend Consulting (New Zealand) www.gingertc.com.au e: info@gingertc.com.au t: +61 412841 105 Belgium - mode...information Belgium bvba www.modeinfo.be e: info@modeinfo.be t: +32 9 2244387 Brazil - Guelfi Representacoes Ltda e: guelfirevistas@uol.com.br t: +55 11 2909 2348 Canada - Info-Marque e: info@letrendsource.com t: +1 514 731 1011 China - China Textile Information Centre www.cncs-pantone.com.cn e: wangting@ctic.org.cn t: +86 10 64 168245 / +86 10 852291007 China - Guangzhou ChinaTex Info Service e: wenpeihui@51pantone.com t: +86 20 38852337 China - Sixty Four S.r.l e: nicola@sixtyfour.it t: +39 0587 466150 China - Fashion Consultant Ltd www.fchk.com e: service@fchk.com t: +852 2576 1737 China - Creative Trends Services e: michael.leow@creativetrends.com.hk t: +852 9378 5869 China - Je Corporate Shanghai e: webmaster@iecorporate.com t: +21 65433207 / +21 55067263 Colombia - Jairo Abril Y Cia Ltda (Bolivia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru & Venezuela) www.jairoabril.com e: abrilimport@jairoabril.com t: +571 6120149 Denmark - pej gruppen ApS (Norway) www.pejgruppen.dk e: forlag@pejgruppen.dk t: +45 97 118900 Finland - Oy Urban View Ltd mode... information Finland www.urbanview.net e: info@urbanview.net t: +358 400 242 079 France - mode...information S.A.S. www.modeinfo.com e: librairie@modeinfo.com t: +33 1 40 138150

Germany - mode...information GmbH (Austria & Switzerland) www.modeinfo.com e: sales@modeinfo.com t: +49 2206 6007 770 Greece - Manos Komninos EE (Cyprus) Interfashion Express e: m.komninos@ifashionexpress.gr t: +30 210 3639443 India - The Bombay Subscription Agency www.bsatrends.co.in e: rajesh@saremals.com t: +91 22 2381 9640 Italy - Campania ideedaprodurre www.ideedaprodurre.com e: info@ideedaprodurre.com t: +39 081 3952823 Italy - Emilia Romagna Eliotecnica Stermieri srl www.eliotecnicastermieri.com e: info@eliotecnicastermieri.com t: +39 059 691468 Italy - Lombardia Mede S.r.l e: info@medesrl.it t: +39 049 9801451 Italy - Lazio Estile s.r.l www.estileroma.it e: info@estileroma.it t: +39 06 8555337 Italy - Marche Paola Tidei S.r.l. e: p.tidei@tiscali.it t: +39 0733 817514 Italy - Puglia Fashion Room www.fashionroom.it e: infotoscana@fashionroom.it t: +39 55 213270 Italy - Toscana - Firenze Fashion Room www.fashionroom.it e: infotoscana@fashionroom.it t: +39 055 213270 Italy - Toscana - Prato View on Trends S.r.l. www.viewontrends.it e: info@viewontrends.it t: +39 0574 623112 Italy - Veneto Mede S.r.l. e: info@medesrl.it t: +39 049 9801451 Israel - Mudpie Israel e: liat.mudpie@gmail.com t: +972544358002 Japan - Taiyo Trading Co Ltd www.next-eye.net e: infopro@next-eye.net t: +81 3 3406 7221

Korea - International Textile Design Co Ltd www.itdco.com e: itdco@korea.com t: +82 2-562-1250 Mexico - Moda Informacin S.A. de C.V. e: modeinformation@gmail.com t: +52 55 5280-5970 Netherlands - Appletizer Forecast, Colour and Information Centre www.appletizer.nl e: info@appletizer.nl t: +31 20 530 5380 Poland - Moda I Wiedza www.modaiwiedza.com.pl e: moda@modaiwiedza.com.pl t: +48-22-7294156 Portugal - Fatima Leite e: fatimaleite@netc.pt t: +351 22 996 1499 Russia - Troyka Press Ltd e: troyka-press@mtu-net.ru t: +7 495 6891313 Singapore - Leng Peng Asia Pte Ltd www.lengpeng.com e: info@lengpeng.com t: +65 6746 2057 South Africa - Mudpie South Africa e: kendall.hatfield@mudpie.co.uk t: +27(0) 72 427 1161 Spain - G.V. Lines Espacio de Tendencias e: gv-lines2g@telefonica.net t: +34 93 2651491 Sweden - Colourhouse AB www.colourhouse.se e: info@colourhouse.se t: +46 31 124456 Taiwan - Linktrends International Inc e: cynthialin@linktrends.com.tw t: +886 2 25585100 Thailand - Mode Publicity Asia Co. Ltd. mode...information Thailand e: modethailand@gmail.com t: +66 2 651 4501 Turkey - Ahu Barut - Neva Tekstil e: ahuilbuldu@superonline.com t: +90 542 232 06 33 UK - Mudpie Ltd www.mudpie.co.uk e: sales@mudpie.co.uk t: +44 (0)1794 344048 USA - East Coast OPR Inc www.oprny.com e: sales@oprny.com t: +1 212 564 3954 USA - West Coast The Fashion Book Store www.thefashionbookstore.com t: +1 213 622 5663
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