Cross-Shore and Long-Shore Sediment Transport

The number of people living in coastal area is increasing. For example, in the United States, coastal population increased from 47 million people in 19 ! to "7 million people in #!!"1. $n addition, according to %lobal &nvironment 'utloo( report #!!7 )%&' * 4+#, the average coastal population densit, in #!! is t-ice higher than the global average. $n man, countries, more than 7!. population lived -ithin 1!! (m of the coastline. 'n top of that, #1 of the -orld/s 00 megacities are developed in coastal areas. There are man, reasons to live in coastal area, for instance1 the flat terrain, temperate climate, scene of the beaches, convenient -ater transportation, -or( as fisherman or other occupation in that area, etc. 2espite those reasons, natural challenges )high -aves, storm surge, erosion, and tsunami+ might occur. 3a4or problems in coastal area are erosion and sedimentation -hich potentiall, resulting topographic changes. This process is caused b, coastal sediment transport -hich is defined as movement of littoral particles stimulated b, -aves, -inds, and tides. %enerall,, there are t-o t,pes of coastal sediment transport1 cross5shore and long5shore sediment transport. &ach t,pes have its o-n characteristics regarding hothe process affecting morpholog, in the near shore 6one. $n a particular region, one t,pe might be dominant over another. Therefore, understanding -hich sediment transport is dominant in an area is important to design the proper coastal management strateg,. 7ross5shore sediment transport, -hich is caused b, direct action of -ave, happens -hen the littoral particle drifted to-ards perpendicular direction to the shoreline. This sediment movement can be distinguished into onshore and offshore transports -hich occur simultaneousl,. 'nshore transport ta(es place -hen volume of sediment transported to land is higher than that of transported to the sea. $n this case, sedimentation happens. $n offshore transport, erosion occurs since more sediment is transported from land to the sea. 7ross5shore sediment transport, both onshore and offshore transports, induces reversible change in beach profile for shorter period. $n -inter, stronger -ave erodes the beach )offshore transport+ and form steeper beach
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http188---.census.gov8prod8#!1!pubs8p#951109.pdf http188---.unep.org8geo8geo4.asp

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profile. $n summer, calmer -ave bring bac( the sand and accretes the beach profile )onshore transport+. :lthough the change of beach profile is reversible, the sediment budget )difference bet-een onshore and offshore transport+ in an area is not al-a,s 6ero )volume of sediment eroded is e;ual to sediment accreted+. 7onse;uentl,, the process, especiall, erosions, can be problematic because it is not onl, changing the beach profile, but also potentiall, degrading the coastline. &rosion caused b, cross5 shore sediment transport can be managed b, gabion, revetment, cliff stabili6ation, mangrove, etc. <ong5shore sediment transport occurs -hen long shore current agitates littoral sediment motion -hich is parallel to the coastline. This process also induces both sedimentation and erosion concurrentl,. =evertheless, unli(e the cross5shore sediment transport, this motion resulting irreversible long term change in the coastline. Therefore, long5shore sediment transport affects the coastal morpholog, change in a longer time scale. This process develops the land form in an area, such as bars, sand spit, tidal inlets, barrier islands, and different shape of beaches. 3an, problems are induced b, this process, for example1 shifted river mouth, closed estuaries -hich -ill arise flooding in its upstream, harbor siltation -hich is also a result of cross5shore sediment transport, etc. >rea(-ater, gro,ne, 4ett,, entrance training -all, and flood gate are common coastal protection structures from long5shore sediment transport problems. Sediment transport processes, both cross5shore and long5shore, causing sedimentation and erosion in different manner. 7ross5shore sediment transport resulting short term changes in beach profile, -hich is perpendicular to the coastline, -hile long5shore sediment transport leads to long term coastal morphologic change parallel to the shore line. 3an, (inds of coastal structures can be constructed to protect coastal area. 2ifferent strateg, can be applied to different cases. Therefore, a proper strateg, should be selected according to the problems. ?o-ever both t,pes of process should be ta(en into account -hen designing a coastal protection, although in some cases, -hen one of the processes is highl, dominant, the minor process can be neglected.

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