Professional Documents
Culture Documents
These are completely free go kart plans we are not in the business of selling plans and information. We do not publish "by the numbers" !"# plans$ we hope that you%ll find your personal design from our road map. The only limiting factor to your designs is yourself if you can dream it& you can build it. 'aterials for karts are (aried. )ee the fabrication tips section for information on materials& bending& cutting& and more. Want to calculate your go kart speed*
Go Kart Parts
When you%re ready to buy& we%(e found that +orthern Tool generally has the lowest prices on most parts. !lick on go karts& then go kart accessories.
Hazards
"s you should know& welding can be ha,ardous& and we encourage you to re(iew our welding tips. -nsuring that your welds are good is (ery important. .f you%re not an accomplished weldor ha(e someone inspect them or ha(e an accomplished weldor help you with the pro/ect. Go karts are machines with lots of mo(ing parts& and are dangerous. Please read our safety information& use common sense& and be safe.
Go kart frames (ary in shape in si,e as much as the weather. .f you can think it up& you can make it. People ha(e made all kinds of wacky frames. We%d lo(e to post pictures of your frame& contact us2
To design your custom frame length and width& sit on some clean concrete and imagine yourself in your go cart. 8sing chalk& draw the frame%s dimensions to the si,e and shape you want so that your legs are comfortable and it is wide enough. #raw where your feet will rest. 9ecord your personali,ed dimensions.
Materials
Tubing :round or s;uare< may be used& or angle iron. For angle& use a thicker si,e than if you%re going to use tubing. Pipe isn%t recommended because it%s much too hea(y& and weight hurts performance. .f you don%t ha(e a tubing bender& angle has the benefit that making bends is easy. )imply notch one side& heat the material and bend as necessary. When it%s bent to shape /ust weld in some filler material. The most efficient solution is some mi=ture of types. We like round for the rear a=le support& and s;uare for the rest& with angle intermi=ed as needed for support. 8se thick wall tubing for the a=le. )ee our full discussion on materials for more information.
Roll Bar
9oll bars are great additions to karts. .f you%re putting one in& a bar that starts in the front and terminates abo(e the rider%s head is the best design. This helps ensure that if the kart crashes into something like limbs& the bar will help push them up and out of the way. " roll bar that only e=tends abo(e the head but doesn%t ha(e this front guard isn%t as useful.
Ground Clearance
@ur one seat plans suggest lowering the frame to within 7 inches of the ground. That%s fine if you%(e got a lot of open and safe asphalt to dri(e on. 1ut you%ll lose so much ground clearance that it would ha(e to be an on road only kart. "lternati(ely& too much clearance raises the center of gra(ity. The higher that center& the easier to flip o(er& so make sure roll bars are used.
These frame plans are for a one seat go kart& but they%re really /ust for your starting reference anyway. They use 4" angle for the frame. This has the ad(antage of being easy to bend. We like using s;uare for the frame& and angle where it%s needed& but to each is to own.
Two Seater Frame 0ow to 1uild a Go Kart Frame 1uilding a frame is not complicated& but you must ensure that you%re building it s;uare. )ince e(erything else builds from this& you don%t want to start the pro/ect with a frame that isn%t true. 0ere we lay out the frame on le(el concrete which& if you don%t ha(e a giant welding table& is ;uite handy. -nsure that you use a s;uare to make sure you%re getting the angles right. We elected to make a two seat go kart& and made it long enough that a si= foot tall person could fit in it. This design will incorporate the ad/ustable seat. To attach it to this frame we%ll probably use cotter pins. When building the frame& don%t weld up the engine mounting plate until you fit the engine. 3ou can tack it in. +otice the bo=ed in area at the rear left a=le. That is for support for the mounting plate. !areful though that your mounting bolts will still fit. The steering arm is (ery sturdy in this set up. 3ou could instead ha(e one support coming in from the side at an angle. The front bumper si,ed as shown will clear only for A" wheels. We ha(en%t hit anything yet& but we suspect that it will bend the angle into the tire and cause a lot of grief. The pedals are fabricated from 45B" flat stock.
Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 4
Fig. A
Fig. ?
The rear dri(e assembly shown uses a fi=ed a=le instead of a li(e a=le. This will ma=imi,e handling at the e=pense of traction on loose surfaces. CWhat%s the difference between li(e a=les and fi=ed a=les*D
Parts Needed
The rear a=le is easily fabricated from 65A" thick wall pipe or 4" thickwall round tubing and threaded bolts si,ed for your bearing. 1earings are generally ?5B" or 65A" .#. The bolts are a(ailable from any hardware store. !heck your hubs to find the right length to buy.
Pre
'ost bolts ha(e raised lettering on the end. Prep your bolt by grinding any raised lettering from the head. !ut the a=le to length and make a (ery straight cut& ideally using a chop saw. .f cutting by hand& you make use a carpenter%s s;uare to get it as close as possible. Getting the bolts s;uare is a difficult /ob& but you%ll need to get it right or face e=acerbated tire wear. )tart by putting the bolt of the a=le and eyeballing the straightness use the framing member as a known straightedge :Fig. 4<. Then get your s;uare and make sure it%s straight from multiple angles :Fig. 7<. -nsure that your s;uare can sit flush and the tack welds don%t get in the way. Tack your bolt from multiple sides before finish welding applying too much heat to one side without tacking will result in heat distortion.
double flanged hub your wheel5tire sprocket brake drum brake band
"ll these parts are bolted together& and you get your dri(e assembly :Fig. 6 A<. 'any parts houses sell this as a complete set. There are other choices for brakes& as well. 8se a spacer to ensure the opposite rear wheel rides at the same distance from the frame as the dri(e wheel.
Fig. 4
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Fig. A
Fig. ?
Fig. F
)teering components can be purchased off the shelf& but you can sa(e a lot by making your own steering parts if you ha(e the tools. @therwise these parts are all readily a(ailable from any of the parts houses.
Fig. 4
!teering $ssem%l#
The steering assembly must be tight and secure. 8se Gocktite and5or retainer keys on the nuts and bolts to pre(ent failure.
Fig. 6
(ie Rods
Tie rods are (ery simple to make& and e=pensi(e in comparison. 0owe(er you ha(e the opportunity for a lot of play if not made to e=acting specifications& so we recommend you buy them. The tie rods that connect in the diagram are also 65B" rod& with 65A"=45A" flat stock used to make the ends. " gal(ani,ed bolt holts the entire assembly together. To make your own tie rods& simply take 45A" = 65A" = 4.?" flat stock and make the "8" shape in the Fig. ?. 8se an inside diameter of about H54F" to allow mo(ement and the inclusion of an ad/ustment nut. "t least one end of your tie rod needs to be ad/ustable so you may align your steering properly. @nce you%(e completed the "8"& drill a 45A" hole in the short side and weld a 45A" bolt inside. :)ee Fig. ?<. 3ou may now cut your actual rod to length. 'easure (ery carefully how long the bar stock should be. When the wheels are aligned perfectly straight ahead& allow for at least 457" of threads for ad/ustment in or out. The non ad/ustable side of the tie rod is where you%ll connect to the Pitman arm. "gain use 45A" = 65A" stock at 7" length. Fig. ?
Fig. A
Fig. F
Fig. H
+ote that all these parts are readily a(ailable for purchase instead of fabrication. We%ll assume you understand the components. .f not& read up on go kart steering parts.
Overvie*
The spindle is the pi(oting front a=le for the go kart. They connect to the steering system at the tie rod. )ee Fig. 4.
Brac"ets
First you%ll fabricate the spindle brack. 8se 45A" = 4.?" flat stock to make the bracket 6"h = 7" w. The brackets must be perfectly s;uare. 3ou can see from Fig. 7 that heating and bending :the first two< doesn%t work (ery well. We suggest cutting and welding :third bracket<. These welds are critical. When they%re perfect& weld them to your frame. The Fig. 4 shows there should be H degrees tilt out at the bottom of the spindle& and H degrees rear facing of the spindles :camber and caster<. .t%s not critical& but it will allow you to turn faster. +ote that we didn%t use the H degree pitch when building our assembly.
! indle $+le
+ow measure your spindle bracket inner si,e. 8sing a pair of digital calipers is almost a necessity howe(er you can make a rough cut and then grind until it fits. 8sing your precise measurement& cut a length of 65A" @# thick wall :.47>< tubing. This tubing has an .# of .?4>"& so no bushings are needed for a tight fit. +ow prep the a=le bolts. Grind down a straight notch in each. This will help you align them better and to get a better weld. "t right is a notched bolt and the finished product.
Fig. 4
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Fig. ?
Fig. F
Fig. H
These figures will e=amine se(eral ways to install a brake on a go kart. There are (arious types of go kart brakes. )uffice to say& anything but a scrub brake is ade;uate.
(&rottle $ssem%l#
3our specific throttle assembly may not work with these plans depending on your engine& and whether you%re running a go(ernor. 9efer to your manufacturer for specific information on attaching the throttle. )ince we%d used a cable for the brake& we decided to use a rod for the throttle to gi(e you an e=ample of rods. The rod was attached to the pedal as shown in fig. A. The rod then runs along the floor pan of the kart to behind the seat. Fig. ? shows where the thottle rod connects to the throttle cable. The cable will then attach to the engine%s throttle mechanism. 3ou can see the return spring in the photo. -nsure you use a ;uality spring and attach this system securely.
Fig. 4
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Fig. A
Fig. ?
Fig. F
#etail """
#etail "1"
#etail "!"
$o"nt It
"n engine mounting plate that allows the engine to be mo(ed back and forth to remo(e the slack from the chain is needed. "ll engines use the same mounting hole pattern. .f you are going to make your own& follow the pattern shown in Fig. 4. 3ou%ll need a way to cut the holes in the plate. " /ig saw with a metal blade would work. )ome ha(e drilled lots of holes and then used files to cut away the rest of the material. " cutting torch would work as well. 1ut buying the plate is often cheaper and much less of a pain. We purchased an 4>" = F" = 45A" piece of metal in 7>>? for JI locally. " parts house was selling a mounting plate for JH with pre cut& pretty holes. #uring the frame mock up& don%t finish weld in the mounting plate. Though the dri(e wheel can be ad/usted slightly with bushings& you want to make sure the dri(e assembly will all line up. 1etter to lea(e it off until the rear is assembled. When you do ha(e the rear dri(e assembled& install the engine and clutch and inspect for mounting position :Fig. 7<. Then finish weld. )ome kits are sold that use rubber donut dampeners to limit the (ibration. We%(e used them in the past& but they%re not a necessity. Fig. 4
Fig. 7
Sit Down)
$d)usta%le !eat
This design is for a seat that will mo(e forward and back& allowing both young and old to ride the kart in comfort. The idea is that the seat will be framed separately from the kart& and then attached to the frame railings with either bolts or pins The basic idea is to build a bench seat that will slide along the frame rail in some way. This design uses angle that rests on top of the frame rail.
Frame
First you%ll design you seat framing. Fig. 4 shows the basic completed frame. .t%s up to you to decide at what angle you%ll want the backrest& and the width will ob(iously be dictated by the kart frame. Fig. 7 shows the underside of the frame. The angle iron was measured to pro(ide 45B spacing on either side of the frame. )o for a A>" wide kart& our seat frame would be A> 45A" from the inside to inside. The two pieces of angle are connected with 65A" = 45B" flat stock& which is then bolted to the bottom of the seat pan. The seat angles back at 4? degrees. The side rails were made from angle& which was filled in and ground at the corner shown :Fig. 6<. "fter you%re done making the basic frame& you can frame out the seat area. Plywood or boards make fine seat pans. !ut the wood to si,e& and round the edges with a sander for comfort.
, &olster#
Fabric stores sell foam and (inyl for the upholstery& but you should wait until you%re done welding on the frame before putting the finished seat in. 8ntil then& install the boards in their positions so that you can sit in the kart as you continue building.
Finis&ing ,
When completed& the seat is installed on to the kart frame.
+ow you%ll mark at least two positions you%d like the seat to be ad/ustable to. #rill through the seat frame and kart frame to make your securing holes. The seat will be secured to the frame with hea(y duty cotter pins or bolts. !onsider that this design is drilling through the frame& and that will weaken your frame. .f you%(e compromised your frame%s strength& you%ll need to strengthen it with additional support. 3ou%ll note that this design doesn%t use any rollers. When ad/usted carelessly this may tear the paint up& so we unbolt it& pick it up& and set it down at the other ad/ustment. We%(e used a really tough "grippy" paint on it& too& and that%s helped.
"fter you%re done with the build& you%(e still got to add the paint. "nd if you%re thinking about chrome on your bike& you%ll need to consider it before the build.
$ Primer on Primers
3ou should definitely use a primer for your pro/ect. Though many paints will say they don%t need a primer& they will be enhanced by a primer. This first coat fills in the rough surface of the metal and creates better adhesion for the top coat. Primer is cheap. Finish paint is more e=pensi(e. 3ou don%t need the most e=pensi(e primer& since you%ll be co(ering it up. There are primers that 9ustoleum makes that are made to co(er rust. These are fairly e=pensi(e& and might be worth it. We used them for our pro/ects. .f you ha(e a re(iew about the long term use of the "9usty 'etal" primers& please let us know2
!anda%le Primer
To really impro(e the smoothness of your metal frame& a sandable primer is what you%ll need. These primers spray on& and then the high spots may be sanded down. 3ou can continue to add coats and sand until you%re happy2 This will smooth out many imperfections such as pitting marks and then rough nature of hot rolled material. That smooth surface will look better and you%ll use less of your final coat paint filling in a rough surface.
Paint comes in (arious gloss le(els. "t the two ends of the spectrum are gloss :shiny< and flat :matte& not shiny<. Gloss paint shows imperfections (ery readily. This is because the shine accentuates e(ery little nick. 'atte paint hides imperfections& but it%s flat and boring. .n the middle are satin and semi gloss. !heap gloss paint will work& especially in con/unction with a good primer& but it will show those nicks2
We elected to use a new paint offered by 9ustoleum. .t is called "0ammered Finish"& and comes in a (ariety of gloss colors. When laid on the frame& it somehow coagulates to where it has a hammered metal finish look which looks really cool. This te=ture makes it ideal for hiding the imperfections on a pro/ect. "nd the gloss of the paint makes it look great. 1ecause of the hammered finish& the paint has a deeper& richer look that is fabulous. )o& if you ha(e welding imperfections& grinding spots& and other rough areas of the frame& the te=ture of the hammered finish will help to mask those problems.
Chromed Parts
"fter you%re done with the build& and you%(e painted& you can still dress up your kart or chopper with some well placed chrome. Guckily there%s a lot of choices a(ailable.
Painting a go kart can be a big problem. The frames are large and bulky. They%re /ust not easy to deal with. "nd e(en painting a mini chopper isn%t cake. These tips will help make paint no problem.
Paint .n $n O en $rea
3our paint area needs some air flow& otherwise the fumes will build up and you%ll get sick. 0owe(er& you do not want to paint where it%s too windy& where there is dust and debris blowing& or in direct sunlight. "dditionally& spray paint is notorious for "o(er spray"& meaning if you paint your go kart ne=t to your car& your car will get spray paint on it. 1e aware of your surroundings.
3ou don%t need to be an e=pert weldor to weld a go kart. .n fact& it can be a good pro/ect to learn on. 3ou will need to make strong welds& but if you don%t mind spending some time with the grinder& you%ll be fine. .f you%re a neophyte weldor& we suggest you team up with a better weldor. They%ll gi(e you more hints on your style that you can%t get from reading about welding. This is in no way an e=hausti(e tip or safety list for what you%ll need to know to weld a kart& or any pro/ect.
" good welding resource are the Weld Talk forums at 0obart Welders.
-elding Helmets
.f you don%t yet own an auto darkening helmet& go get one2 0arbor Freight carries an affordable& though cheapie feeling one. Whiche(er one you get& you%ll lo(e it. .t makes welding so much easier.
Fig. 4
For your framing you%ll want a strong& but light frame. @ur kart pro/ect used thinwall s;aure tubing. 45B" = 4" angle would ha(e done as well. For round tubing& thinwall might be too thin. .f you ha(e made a kart from thinwall& let us know. 'ost of the store bought karts use thinner walls and weak materials. The life of the cart surely won%t be as long as a ;uality hand made product. We like using a mi=ture of s;uare and round material. .f you want pretty bends in the frame on the cheap& re(iew the differences between pipe and tube before deciding which to use. Fig. 7
Fig. A
Bending Material
8sing angle iron has the benefit that making bends and angled connections is (ery easy you can notch one side& heat& and bend. 1y adding filler material to the notched area you re strengthen the frame. -(en if you don%t make the whole frame with angle iron& you can still use it for pieces that need to be bent at angle. .f you want to /a,, up your frame with bends& we suggest using pipe and getting a 0arbor Freight pipe bender. +ote that it only bends pipe& not tube. CWhat%s the difference*D )ince it%s more difficult to bend s;uare tubing and fishmouthing round is difficult& many people use a mi=ture of s;uare and round. Cutting Your Materials 3ou%ll need a chop saw& grinder with cut off wheel& or a hacksaw to cut your materials. !ircle saws will often accept an abrasi(e blade as well. .f you%re using a hack saw& buy a new blade. 3our old one is surely dull. " chop saw is the best since you can get nice straight cuts. .f you don%t ha(e one& you don%t need an e=pensi(e one& so keep that in mind. " handy way to ensure you get two pieces of tubing e=actly the same length is to use (ise grips to keep two pieces together :Fig. A<. .t sa(es time& too2 1efore you start welding& make all your cuts first. Then lay out the frame completely to get an idea of what the finished product will look like. "t this point you%ll know if something isn%t working& and can fi= it before it eats up time later. "nd if you%re getting a someone else to do the welding for you then they will greatly appreciate that e(erything is ready to go.
Pi(e vs T"/e
When building your own go kart or mini bike frame& you%ll probably like smooth bends rather than a s;uared off design. 0owe(er& bending materials re;uires special tools. We%ll look at the two best ways to do thisE using a pipe bender and using a tubing bender.
Pi e vs (u%e
9ound pipe is commonly a(ailable e(en at your local hardware store. Tubing is a(ailable at your metal supplier. Price the material beforehand& and steer clear of seamless tube :aka #@'& drawn o(er mandrel<. .t is (ery e=pensi(e. Tube is called out by the outside diameter :@#<. " 4" round tubing will be e=actly 4". Tube is a(ailable in thin wall :>.>F?"< and thick wall :>.47?"<. To find the inside diameter :.#<& double the wall thickness :ie .47?=7L.7?>"< and subtract from the @#. Pipe is called out by its inside diameter rather than its outside diameter. Therefore a 65A" pipe will actually measure 4.>?" @#. " 4" pipe will measure 4.64?" @#. Though the pipe is called by the inside diameter& the actual .# is slightly greater. " 65A" schedule A> pipe has a wall thickness of .446". The .# is therefore .446"=7L.77F". 4.>?" .77F"L >.B7A".
@n the other hand& a hydraulic pipe bender can be found often for around JH> that includes all the bending dies you%ll need.
There are two main ways you can make your frame with or without a bender. 8sing a bender on your pro/ect will make the frame look much more professional. 1ut wait a tubing bender is e=pensi(e2 True& but hydraulic pipe benders are ;uite affordable. Therefore we suggest building your frame from schedule A> pipe and using a hydraulic pipe bender& which can be purchased for less than J4>> at 0arbor Freight& +orthern Tools& etc.
'aintenance. .t%s the thing that no one wants to do. )top and change the oil* "rgh... Pull the spark plug and clean it* 8gh2 @il that chain* "ir up the tires* Well& you ha(e to if you want your parts to keep working. "nd it%s really not that hard. These pages will list a step by step suggested guide on how to maintain your go kart and mini bike. Granted& we can%t possibly co(er e(ery make or model& so this is a starting suggestion. "lso follow your manuals and common sense.
The Chain
3ou must learn to si,e your chain& but this isn%t hard. "fter that& you%(e got to keep it properly ad/usted and oiled.
!hanging the oil is easy& cheap& and often neglected. #oing it on a schedule will add to the life of your kart%s engine.
Oil 0evel
First& check the oil le(el each time before riding. Generally it should be (isible at the bottom of the filler cap threads.
Maintenance !c&edule
3ou should change the oil according the engine%s specifications. 1riggs recommends changing the oil after 7? hours or once per season. !onsidering that karts go more action than lawn mowers& try to adhere to the hours usage.
When the season ends& you%ll need to do a few simple things to store your pro/ect.
3ngine
#rain the gas from the tank by letting the engine run until empty. .f the carb is e;uipped with a bowl& check the bottom for a drain plug at its base. 9emo(e the rest of the gas from the tank (ia e(aporation in a open& (entilated area away from any sparks or flame& or by using rags. 8se caution. )ome products like ")ta 1il" are made to store gas& but the best bet is to remo(e it. 1efore using in the spring& remo(e the spark plug and add a small amount of oil to the cylinder. 9eplace the plug and slowly pull the starter before reattaching the plug wire.
Ca%les
1e aware of your brake and throttle cables when storing. Gubricate the ends with W# A> or other lubricant so they don%t sei,e.
!torage
Keep the machine out of the rain. " cheap tarp will sa(e you rust headaches2
use fresh gas& not last season%s check the air filter change the oil oil all parts oil engine ad/ust chain inspect tires for dry rot
Sto((ing on a Dime
Go Kart 1rake !hoices
)urprisingly to some& there are ;uite a few choices for brakes on go karts these days. 3ou can use anything from the traditional scrub brake to the high tech disc brake. !lick the photos for specific product information from +orthern Tool.
!cru% Bra"es
" scrub brake uses metal paddles to press against both rear tires when the brake is pressed. )ometimes these are hand acti(ated by pulling up on a braking bar instead of running an actual brake pedal. This pro(ides ade;uate braking in most scenarios& but is hard on your tires.
Band Bra"es
" band brake uses a metal band to constrict around the outside of a brake drum when the brake is pressed. These brakes are simple to install and ine=pensi(e. They won%t perform great when wet. 'ost people run one brake on the dri(e wheel& but two would pro(ide better braking.
Drum Bra"es
9ather than constricting around the outside of the drum& a drum brake e=pands inside a brake drum. They ha(e real brake shoes& and may last longer than the band brake. They pro(ide (ery good stopping ability& and are less likely to get wet since they are more enclosed inside the drum. 3ou usually only need one drum brake.
Disc Bra"es
The best of the braking solutions& a disc brake is a high tech ad(ancement in go karting. They pro(ide superior stopping power& e(en when wet. " little bit of o(erkill on some karts& but it you want the best& this is it. We recently heard that some people are using the dri(e sprocket as the brake disc instead of ha(ing a dedicated brake disc. We first tried this system on our mini chopper& and it does work. 3ou do need to be concerned about keeping the sprocket clean of oil& though& and therefore it%s not the most trouble free disc brake setup.
The front steering assembly for a go kart need not be a complicated connection. First you%ll need the steering shaft. .t begins with the steering wheel& and terminates at the bottom with the Pitman arm. This arm is attached to the tie rods& and pushes them. The tie rods connect to the wheel spindles& aka the front a=les.
Go Kart ! indles
.n the front of the kart& the a=les are known as spindles. The spindles are pretty hard to fabricate& so if you%re not an e=pert weldor& you can buy them. They are about J4? each. The spindle is basically the steering connection to the a=le. They are usually about A inches long& but can be longer or shorter if the wheels dictate.
3ou%ll need a way to transmit the engine%s power to your dri(e wheel& and that way is usually the centrifugal clutch. 3our other option is a high performance& high price tor;ue con(erters. !lick the photos for specific product information.
Centri'ugal Clutc&
" centrifugal clutch is a (ery simple mechanism. There is the clutch housing& which is the outer part of the clutch that%s (isible. "ttached is a sprocket. These come in a (ariety of tooth patterns& commonly between 4> and 47. .nside the clutch housing there is the actual centrifugal clutch. When the engine shaft spins& the clutch e=pands based on the centrifugal forces. When it spins fast enough& the shoes "lock up" with the outer housing (ia friction. When locked up& the engine%s force is transferred to the sprocket and chain. The clutch allows the sprocket to be disengaged at idle& which allows you to idle without mo(ing2
+e(er& ne(er run the engine if the clutch housing is remo(ed& as the clutch will fly apart. "lso be careful not to remo(e lock pins that hold the clutch together& as they are nearly impossible to get back together.
(or5ue Converter
!omet%s tor;ue con(erters allow you to get a lot more power from your engine. They are basically an automatic transmission for your pro/ect. The design allows automatic infinite (ariation and smooth shifting action. The belt and two pulleys work together& changing in relation to the kart speed. The change in si,e changes the gear ratio. Therefore& at low speed& the con(erter automatically is in "low gear" which means more tor;ue and power. "t higher speed the pulleys change so that there is a lower gear ratio& meaning more speed. The weatherproof system is completely mechanical and can be mounted in any position. 3ou can use a tor;ue con(erter on a go kart or a mini bike. "t around J4B>& they aren%t cheap& but they will allow you to go faster& or climb hills offroad. )o& consider sa(ing your money on a 4> 0P engine and getting a tor;ue con(erter for a ?.?2
Welcome to S(roc%ets
" chain and sprocket is a good and popular choice for the dri(e assembly& as they will wear better than a pulley system& are simple to install& and ine=pensi(e.
! roc"et !izing
)prockets are si,ed by the chain pitch and the number of teeth. The more teeth& the larger the sprocket is. The larger the sprocket& the better your low end power will be. The smaller the sprocket& the better your top end speed will be. 0owe(er& small sprockets really punish the already weak low end tor;ue of the kart. For this reason some use tor;ue con(erters. .f you e=pect great performance from a smaller engine& they are a must.
Chained 3(
!hain comes in some (ariety of si,e :pitch< for go kart applications. 3ou can tell the pitch of your sprockets or chain by measuring the distance from the top of one tooth to the ne=t& or by measuring between the chain pins.
6 78 C&ain
This is the most common pitch used with #.3 pro/ects& and is good for standard duty. The M6? pitch has 65B" between pins.
Fitting C&ain
To resi,e chain& the pins must be dri(en out. .ne=pensi(e tools are sold that do /ust this. 3ou can also dri(e the pins out with a punch that%s slightly smaller than the pin. "fter adding or remo(ing links& the chain is re connected. )pecial connecting links are sold that ha(e a snap that holds the pins. "lternati(ely you can dri(e one of the pins pushed out earlier back into the linkage on some chains& and only if the linkage is in good condition.
Go karts use a (ariety of rear a=le types. The most common for #.3 types is the single wheel dri(e& but two wheel dri(e karts are also popular. The simplest of these is the li(e a=le& and the more complicated use a differential. " li(e a=le means that the wheels are mounted directly to the a=le& and the a=le spins. " dead a=le would be where the wheels spin freely and the a=le does not turn.
Di''erentials
" more complicated solution to this problem is to use a differential on the rear a=le& /ust like a car has. This allows both wheels to be powered& and allows for easy cornering. 0owe(er& it%s not the best solution for serious off roading. This is because when traction is lost on one wheel& it will spin and the other won%t turn at all& effecti(ely gi(ing you a single wheel dri(e. These systems are readily a(ailable for less than J4>>.
B"rning R"//er
Traditional go karts used whate(er wheels and tires were a(ailable. This probably resulted in the premature end of many a wheel barrow tire2 Today& there are a (ariety of wheels and tires a(ailable. !ommercial karts use (ery large rear tires& "TN style. 9acing karts use a F4 type slick. 1ut the traditional tire has always been a A.4>=6.?>=?& as far as we%re concerned.
(ires
)licks are definitely the coolest for karts& but wheels come in a ribbed pattern and the traditional knobby. 3ou know the drill by now$ consider your use. 9ibbed is the best compromise between traction and long wear. Knobby wear out ;uickly. )ome tires& such as those at +orthern& are sold as "tubeless". This is only is you also ha(e tubeless rims& which most are not. 'ake sure that you get the tubes.
Bearings
The standard bearing si,es are ?5B" or 65A". 1oth are common& and it%s a personal choice which to use. We use ?5B" /ust because we always ha(e& and the a=le bolts fit nicely on the 4" tubing. )ome bearings are high speed and high priced& but will last longer than standard bearings. " "low speed% bearing will generally handle up to 7? 'P0& which is often well within the range of a kart. There are other& (ery cheap bearings for hand trucks and such that are (ery cheap& these are near worthless for go karts.
C&ea !olutions
Gately& looking around for cheaper wheels& we found A.4>=6.?>=A" hand truck wheels at 0arbor Freight on sale for JA each2 They came with a steel A bolt 7 4654F" pattern& tires& tube& and bearings. The tire is acceptable& though isn%t a long wear. The bearings are unacceptable and must be replaced. 3ou%ll sa(e a little using these little wheels& but the clearance is (ery tight using a F> tooth M 6? sprocket. For M A> the wheels would be far too small.
5RR666$)
Today there are many choices for engines on the market. Kunked old engines can usually be rehabbed& and new engines that are guaranteed to start easily are widely a(ailable locally.
T*(es o# 1ngines
This is a page about the different engines you may encounter. 1oth engines had air (ane style go(ernors& but we remo(ed them immediately after we got them& since they were old and messing with go(ernors is often a lot of trouble. The first is a small tank set up. .t uses a (ery simple carb. The gas is drawn directly from one tube. There is no bowl or float. There%s one needle (al(e for the mi=ture ad/ustment. The second engine displayed is also a 6 0P& but has a larger tank and slightly more ad(anced carb. There are two down tubes on the carb. @ne draws gas from the tank and deposits it in the smaller bowl that%s integrated into the tank. This allows the second tube to always ha(e a constant le(el of gas to pull from& whereas the first e=ample& when on a sharp incline with low fuel may suck air. This e=ample has a screw in the back& but it doesn%t do anything. The forward screw is the needle (al(e.
Gawn mower engines are a dime a do,en& you think to yourself. )urely there%s a way to use one and sa(e some cash... 3ou already know that go karts traditionally use hori,ontal mount engines for good reasons we%ll discuss. 1ut if you%re committed to being a nonconformist let%s figure this thing out.
Re ositioning to Horizontal
The mounting face for the motor is generally on the same side as the shaft& so you%ll first need to design a mounting bracket to hold the engine in the hori,ontal position. +ow you%ll reali,e that carb is turned on its side. 3ou%ll need to drill and tap new mounting holes. .f you open the crankcase& you%ll see that the oil slinger won%t be in the oil supply. 3ou%ll ha(e to figure something out to ensure the engine stays oiled. Those are at least two giant problems that you%d face with this "easy" solution. +ow let%s e=amine using the engine in the stock configuration.
The function of the e=haust system is to get the outgoing gases away from the motor as ;uickly as possible. The more efficiently the e=haust e=its& the better the motor will perform. " muffler ser(es to ;uiet the e=haust gases& yet doing this constricts the outgoing gases. "n open pipes e=haust would be (ery efficient for the engine& and impro(e the output the most. -(en so& most people prefer some amount of a muffler as open pipes are (ery loud.
With the simple design of small engines& repairing them is often (ery easy. 0owe(er& figuring out what to repair usually takes the most time.
Car% Pro%lems
For deli(ery problems& pull the carb off and disassemble& looking for problems and clearing all passages. 'ost often the problem is /ust "gunk"& but their could be a diaphragm problem& seal
problem& etc. !heck with a dealer or good book for your carb if you clean it and still ha(e problems. For the fuel5air mi=& pull the needle (al(e screw out and inspect. !areful not to wrench these down& be gentle. 1O) usually call for 4.? turns out from the seated position. 8se good gaskets on the carb to tank and carb to block connections& otherwise a (acuum leak could be getting you.
! ar" C&ec"
.f the engine doesn%t start after checking the fuel5air mi=& then head o(er to the ignition system. )tart by pulling the plug wire off the plug& and position the wire so that there is a small gap between the wire and the top of the plug. Gi(e the engine a few pulls. " (isible spark should /ump between the wire and plug. 3ou may ha(e trouble seeing it in a (ery bright area& so if you don%t see one& make sure that the gap is not too large and try in a shady area. .f you don%t get a spark& then there%s an ignition problem. )tart by changing your small engine points. .f you do get spark& then your ignition is probably working @K. 9emo(e the plug and inspect. .t will be helpful if you start to learn what a normal plug looks like& what a lean5rich plug looks like& etc. There%s pictures in repair manuals. .f the plug is (ery dirty and sooty& you%(e probably got your carb%s ad/ustments wrong. !lean the plug by spraying with carb cleaner and using a wire brush to remo(e the deposits. 9einstall the plug and try again using starting fluid. .f you%re still not getting the engine started& then replace the plug.
Com ression
There%s no listed compression check for 1riggs engines& but the dealers say that when the plug is installed& the engine should pop forward when spun backward. We understand that many engines ;uickly leak down due to the (al(es& so a normal automoti(e compression check won%t work. !all you local dealer to see what their ideas are. .f you%(e reached this point without getting it started& then you%re in bad shape& and probably cussing up a storm. Pull the head and check the (al(es& they could be stuck. That should get you going Good luck2
.f you%re ha(ing an issue with weak spark& or no spark& the cheapest and easiest repair after changing the plug is to change the points. +ote that not all engines use points. .f you%re ha(ing performance problems with your small engine& this repair& along with gapping the coil might drastically impro(e the power.
(&e Points
The co(er for the points will now be (isible. 9emo(e the screws and inspect the o(erall system. There should be no moisture or oil behind the co(er. .f there is& new seals will need to be installed. !ontaminants behind the co(er speed fouling of the points. +ew points kits are a(ailable at most hardware stores& and at lawn mower dealers. 9emo(e and inspect the contact points for burning and strange wear& then discard the condenser and the rocking arm. .nstall the new ones& using caution not to strip the small bolts. Gap the points at the recommended distance using a feeling gauge. Finally& use 9TN gasket material to seal the hole where the wires e=it the co(er.