Mix and match - MCV - Melbourne Community Voice for Gay and Lesbian Readers

Written by Dark Lord

Thursday, 13 March 2008 02:22 - Last Updated Thursday, 13 March 2008 02:31

Everyone knows that a good meal should be accompanied by a good… beer? S.M. King
explains why.

So. Before vintners, sommeliers and freelance snobs come at me with open corkscrews, let
me be clear: I love wine. Check my recyclables wheelie bin and you’ll see evidence of a
fondness for Shiraz, Pinot Noir and, frankly, any old red blend I’ve been recently gifted.

Good food and fine wine are great company. (Actually, good food and average wine tend to
merge quite nicely as well.) I’ll often cook around a great bottle should one come into my
possession. And I’m likely to throw absurd wine terms like ‘barnyard’, ‘cigar box’ or ‘tension’
around freely. I love to match food with wine, and I worship at the pedicured feet of Bacchus.

But, colour me Yobbo, I also love beer. And I refuse to see any impediment to matching a
wonderful lager with, for example, a great curry.

Acolytes of the great David Thompson writhe with jealousy when they learn I have eaten his
food.

The expat whiz kid now installed at London’s Michelin starred Namh came to cook at
Chinatown’s Longrain. It was a little like being in gastronomic church and, as you’d expect, his
extraordinary dishes were matched with rosés, Traminers et al.

If you’ve eaten his food or purchased his book, you’ll know that Thompson does not
compromise. The heat and zing of Thai cuisine is preserved and elevated to a plane normally
reserved for angels. Frankly, I felt that my palate would not be able to savour the wine. I looked
at Partner. Partner looked at me. We tripped the sommelier over and demanded, “Bring us a
Singha.”

This light, floral hopsy beer from Thailand was, as it turned out, a perfect accompaniment to

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Mix and match - MCV - Melbourne Community Voice for Gay and Lesbian Readers

Written by Dark Lord

Thursday, 13 March 2008 02:22 - Last Updated Thursday, 13 March 2008 02:31

the lofty savagery of Thompson’s food. Before too long, an eminent food critic at our table had
followed our lead. And then, the love of lager blossomed throughout the restaurant.

I apologised to Thompson when he appeared at our table. He applauded the choice.

Particularly when Partner, who was by then six beers in, loudly explained, “I couldn’t poshibly let
your disheshhhh be eclipsed by wine.”

Singha was, in this instance, a great counterpart. A good rule of thumb, in fact, is to select
beer for cuisine by a mutual country of origin. If you’re eating North Indian cuisine, don’t bother
with a wine. Your palate will be anaesthetised and you should reach immediately for a
Kingfisher. Similarly, Corona works beautifully with Mexican, Tex Mex or Caribbean flavours.

These last two beers, as the ale-fiend will attest, are now brewed locally. While beer snobs
might make sloshing noises of disapproval, I’m quite content. Beer, unlike a great haute Medoc,
does not age terribly well. Bring on the fresh brews.

There are those who argue that Japanese cuisine can be hurled into the company of wine. I
disagree. On grounds that are contrary to those afore-stated. The fire of Thai, Indian or Mexican
will overwhelm a wine. Whereas the subtlety of a wine will drown the refined nuances of
Japanese food. So, lend me an Asahi. Or, better yet, a seasonal Kirin.

And, if you’re threatening me with dumplings and enormous sausages, knock me out with a
pilsener in the form of a stein of Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier.

For the local barbie, I prefer to go with our indigenous Cascade Pale or Boag’s Premium.
Boag’s light is the best low alcohol beer bar none. If I were eating with vegans, I’d almost
certainly reach for a Cooper’s to block out their wretched whining. And, if I were trying to
impress wine snobs with the magnificence of beer, I’d drink from a microbrewery like Little
Creatures, Mountain Goat or 3 Ravens.

For those, like me, with no taste for sauterne, your saviour is at hand. I nominate Australia’s
first official dessert beer. From WA comes Bees Neez. It’s a honey wheat excuse to stay
lager-logged for an entire meal.

For your diary

MY LAST SUPPER
This highlight of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival sees Melanie Dunea’s 56 incredible
portraits of world-famous chefs (plus six new portraits of Melbourne chefs) displayed at The
Atrium at Crown. One of the largest photographic exhibitions ever hung outside a non-gallery
space in Australia, the exhibition shows what happens when a world-renowned photographer
asks the world’s leading chefs, ‘What would you cook for your final meal?’.

In conjunction with My Last Supper, enjoy a main meal at Number 8 Restaurant and Wine Bar,
Breezes, JJ’s Bar & Grill, the brasserie by Philippe Mouchel, Nobu, or Rockpool Bar & Grill

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Mix and match - MCV - Melbourne Community Voice for Gay and Lesbian Readers

Written by Dark Lord

Thursday, 13 March 2008 02:22 - Last Updated Thursday, 13 March 2008 02:31

Melbourne, for your chance to win seven $500 dining vouchers to spend at Crown.

www.crownrestaurants.com

AN INDIAN FEAST
If you love Indian food, then Tuesdays at Tandoori Times are the night for you. Their Tuesday
Night Epicure Special consists of a delicious three-course meal for only $19.90, including a
glass of wine. Melbourne’s hottest dish is available - guaranteed to put a smile on your face and
sweat on your brow. Get served by the hottest, funkiest curry in town.

Tandoori Times at 194 Barkly St, St Kilda (ph) 9593 8166; 199 Gertrude St, Fitzroy (ph) 9419
5930; and 45 Anderson St, Yarraville (ph) 9689 0666.

www.tandooritimes.com.au

DEGUSTATION
Every Saturday, Attica is offering its world class degustation menu with vegetarian option for
$110 per head ($185 matched with old and new world wines). For the midweek connoisseur,
Tuesday nights offer Ben’s Chefs Choice Degustation for only $69.
“[Q]uite possibly Melbourne's most exciting degustation” – The Age, 2007.

Attica, 74 Glen Eira Rd, Ripponlea (ph) 9530 0111 

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