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ADVENTURE TOURISM

List of Contents
Contents
Preface Executive Summary Statistical Highlights Definitions and Sources of Data Adventure Tourism in Pakistan Introduction (i) Mountaineering Overall View Demographic Profile Age & Gender Occupation Seasonality Peaks Conquered by Mountaineers Peaks Conquered by Expeditions Royalty Paid Royalty Rates Deaths/Casualties Expenditure Manpower involved in the Mountaineering activities Opinions of Mountaineering Expeditions Rating of Services Provided by different Organizations Popular Peaks in terms of Heights Overall Quality of Environment of Mountains of Pakistan compared to Nepal, India and China Weaknesses for promoting Adventure Tourism in Pakistan Environmental conditions of Mountains in Pakistan after five years Rating the Mountaineering Routes in Terms of Pollution. Main Causes of Environmental Degradation in Pakistan. Suggestions by Mountaineers Peak-wise sussessful Expeditions during 2005 with brief profile of the leaders Country-wise Successful Expeditions during 2005. (ii) Trekking Open Zone Restricted Zone Overall view Long Term Trend. Structural Features Nationality Trekking Rate and Fee Paid by Trekkers Treks Used by Trekkers Conclusions Annexures Hazardous Rescue of Mr. Tomaz Humar on Nanga Parbat Annex-I Mountaineers & Trekkers in Pakistan in 2005, get certificates by Annex-II Alpine Club of Pakistan. Baltoro gets cleaned up Annex-III

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Table No.

Subject

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LIST OF TABLES
Table 1 Table 2 Table 3 Table 4 Table 5 Table 6 Table 7 Table 8 Table 9 Table 10 Table 11 Table - 12 Table 13 Table 14 Table 15 Table 16 Table 17 Table 18 Table 19 Table 20 Table 21 Table 22 Table 23 Response Ratio during 2004 2005 Overall View in respect of Mountaineering Expeditions that Visited Pakistan 1986 through 2005 Age and Gender Composition of Mountaineers during 2004 2005 Occupational Classification of the Mountaineers during 20042005 Indices of Seasonal Variation in Mountaineering Expeditions during 2004-2005 Peaks Attempted/ Conquered by Mountaineers during 20042005 Success Ratio of Main Peaks Conquered by Expeditions during 2005 Royalty Paid by Expeditions 1986 through 2005 Historical Perspective of Royalty Rates for Scaling Peaks of Various Heights during 1975 to 2005 Deaths due to Mountaineering during 1990-2005 Item-wise Average Expenditure per Mountaineer during 20042005 Opinion of Expeditions on Services provided by different Organizations of Pakistan Popular Peaks in Terms of Height. Overall Quality of Environment of Mountains in Pakistan Compared to Nepal, India and China. Opinions of Mountaineering Expeditions on Weaknesses of Adventure Tourism in Pakistan. Opinions on Environmental Conditions in Mountains in Pakistan after five years. Opinions on Mountaineering Routes in Terms of Pollution Opinions on Main Causes of Environmental Degradation. Nationality-wise Problems Identified by Mountaineers during 2005 Trekking Parties and Trekkers A Long Term Analysis 1990 through 2005 Nationality-wise Trekkers distribution during 2004-2005 Trekking Fee Paid by Trekkers during 1986 through 2005 Position of Treks used by Trekkers during 2005. 4 6 8 8 9 10 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 17 18 18 19 20 29 30 31 32

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Table No.

Subject STATISTICAL APPENDIX

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Table - 1 Table - 2

Response Ratio 1996 through 2005 List of Mountaineering expeditions those visited Pakistan during the year 2005. Table - 3 Age & Gender Composition of Mountaineers 1996 through 2005 Table - 4 Indices of Seasonal Variation of Mountaineering Expeditions 1999 through 2005 Table - 5 Main Peaks Attempted/Conquered by Mountaineers 1996 through 2005. Table 6 Deaths during Mountaineering from1986 through 2005. Table - 7 Item-wise Average Expenditure per Mountaineer 1996 through 2005. Table 8 Occupational Classification of the Mountaineers 1996 through 2005. Table 9 Seasonality Trends 2001 through 2005 in respect of Mountaineering Expeditions. Table 10 Peak-wise number of Porters Engaged 2004 vs 2005. Table 11 Nationality and Occupations of Mountaineers 2004 through 2005 Table 12 Nationality-wise Peak Attempted/Conquered by Expeditions during 2005 Table 13 Nationality-wise Peak Attempted/Conquered by Mountaineers during 2005. Table 14 Major Peaks of Pakistan. Table 15 Comparative statement of Mountaineering Regulations in China, India, Nepal & Pakistan. Table 16 Nationality-wise Trekkers distribution 2001 through 2005. Table 17 Terms and Conditions for Grant of Permission to Trekking Parties for Undertaking Trekking Tours in Pakistan. Table 18 Detail of some Treks in Pakistan Table 19 Some Important Organizations and their activities Table 20 List of some Important Tour Operators Table 21 PTDC Motels Table 22 PTDC Tourist Information Centres (TICs) in Pakistan Table 23 Brief History of Mountaineering in Pakistan Table 24 Profile of the Highest Peaks in Pakistan Table 25 The Top Five Peaks in Pakistan and their Heights, Latitude and Longitude. Suggestions and Comments.

45 46 54 55 56 57 58 58 59 60 61 63 64 65 69 76 78 80 85 90 95 98 99 103 108 109

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PREFACE
Northern Pakistan is dominated by some of the highest mountains in the world. Three most spectacular and lofty mountain ranges, namely the Karakoram, the Himalayas and the Hindukush meet in Northern Pakistan. These ranges offer endless possibilities for the professional mountaineers and trekkers. The Report on Adventure Tourism in Pakistan produced annually by the Ministry of Tourism, presents information on mountaineering and trekking activities in Pakistan. The publication gives information about foreign expeditions, their distribution by nationality, age, gender, peaks conquered, royalty earned, item-wise average expenditure and casualties etc. The data has been compiled for report based on Mountaineering & Trekking activities in the mountaineering and trekking zones for which Government permits are required. It is hoped that the Report will meet the requirements of national and international tour operators engaged in promotion and development of Adventure Tourism in Pakistan. Comments for the improvement of publication may be addressed to the Economic Analyst, Ministry of Tourism, 9th Floor, Green Trust Tower, Jinnah Avenue, Blue Area, Islamabad.

September 2006:

Salim Gul Shaikh


Secretary Ministry of Tourism

Executive Summary Pakistan is gifted with one of the richest and unique collection of majestic and rugged mountains on the earth with three spectacular mountain ranges; Karakoram, Hindu Kush and Himalayas meeting in Pakistan. These ranges have 700 peaks above 6000 meters with as many as 160 peaks rising above 7000 meters. These include five peaks out of the total fourteen peaks on earth, rising above 8000 meters. Pakistan offers immense opportunities for nature and adventure tourism. The average size of mountaineering expedition in year 2005 was relatively smaller comprising seven members as compared to nine members in 2004. Following the trend of mountaineering expeditions the average size of trekking party comprised six members as compared to seven members in year 2004. Pakistan received 67 mountaineering expeditions in 2005 coming from 27 different countries for scaling various peaks located in Northern Areas and Chitral as compared to 69 expeditions in 2004 showing a decrease of 2.9 percent. The number of members of expeditions also decreased and received 475 mountaineers in 2005 showing a decrease of 21.2 percent over previous year. Spain and France were the leading countries with 7 expeditions each 40 and 30 members respectively that visited Pakistan for mountaineering in 2005. Pakistan received 251 trekking parties in 2005 as compared to 255 in 2004 showing a slight decrease of 1.6 percent while number of trekkers decreased from 1776 in 2004 to 1443 in 2005 showing a decrease of 18.8 percent. In 2005, the amount of royalty earned from mountaineering expeditions was US $ 0.309 million, reflecting a decrease of 19.1 percent, over 2004. The amount of trekking fee earned, was US $ 75700 in 2005, as compared to US $ 89950 in 2004, showing a fall of 15.8 percent. The main reason of fall in adventure tourism could be attributable to no major event was held in 2005 like 51st Anniversary of Nanga Parbat and Golden Jubilee Celebration of K-2, held in 2004, which attracted more mountaineers. Mountaineering/trekking being labour intensive activity provides jobs to large number of local people. During 2005, 8703 high altitude and low altitude porters were engaged by mountaineers and trekkers of which 4099 high altitude and low altitude porters were engaged in mountaineering while 4604 low altitude porters were engaged in trekking. Some of the suggestions put forward by the expeditions are: (i) The condition of road from Skardu to Ashkole should be improved, (ii) Helicopter evacuation fee be reduced, (iii) All human and animal waste must be removed from approach March route every year, (iv) Heights and location of various unknown peaks and different glaciers may be provided on tourism website..

The statistical highlights of adventure tourism are as follows: Statistical Highlights 2005 Sl. No. 1) Mountaineering
i) Expeditions. ii) Members of Expeditions iii) Sex composition of mountaineer male as % overall iv) Seasonality Ratio of: Expeditions Members v) Peak-Month for Expeditions vi) Lean Month for Expeditions vii) Over-all success ratio of conquering the Peaks. viii) Average Expenditure per mountaineer. ix) Deaths due to Mountaineering. x) Job to the local people. Trekking i) Trekking Parties ii) Trekking members iii) Job to the local people. 3) Foreign Exchange Earned from Mountaineering/ Trekking & Wild Board. i) Royalty paid by Mountaineers ii) Pollution Fee iii) Trekking Fee Paid by Trekkers iv) Hunting Fee Total Earnings
US$ US$ US$ US$ US$ (Nos) (Nos) (Nos)

Activity

Unit
2004

Year
2005

Percentage Change Over previous year

(Nos) (Nos) (Percent)

69 603 92.2

67 475 89.1

(-) 2.9 (-) 21.2 (-) 3.4

----(Percent)
(US $) (Nos) (Nos)

2.6 2.5 June August 46.4 2708 6 5108

3.3 3.5 June October 34.3 3839 4 4099

26.9 40.0 --(-) 26.1 41.8 (-) 33.3 (-) 19.8

2)

255 1776 3295

251 1443 4604

(-) 1.6 (-) 18.8 39.7

3,82,175 13,600 89,950 10,300 4,96,025

3,08,550 13,600 75,700 1,100 3,98,950

(-) 19.3 -(-) 15.8 (-) 89.3 (-) 19.6

Definitions & Sources of Data Definitions: The terms used in this report are explained as under: Adventure Tourist: The adventure tourist is defined as a person, irrespective of race, gender, age, nationality, creed and colour, who takes part in mountaineering and trekking as an active player and whose stay outside his usual place of residence exceeds 24 hours but remains less than 180 days. Mountaineer: A person irrespective of nationality, gender, age, creed and colour who takes part in any mountaineering expedition to any peak exceeding 6500 meters in height and whose stay away from his/her usual place of residence is more than 24 hours but less than 180 days. Mountaineering: An act of climbing any peak above 6500 meters height located in any mountain range of Pakistan by any expedition with the intention of reaching to the summit. Trekker: A person who irrespective of his nationality, race, colour, gender and creed takes part in a trekking trip at an altitude of less than 6500 meters height in open restricted, regulated or closed zone and whose stay outside his/her usual place of residence is more than 24 hours but less than 180 days. Trekking: The act of traveling on foot to a maximum height of 6500 meters with the purpose of sight seeing and recreation at various natural and cultural sites in places where means of modern transport are not available. Low Altitude Porter: 3

A porter who carries the materials/ equipments/ supplies of mountaineering/ trekking expeditions upto an altitude of 5500 meters (usually base camp). High Altitude Porter: A porter who carries essential materials beyond the height of 5500 meters. Source of Data: For mountaineering and trekking in restricted zones, information is collected from the records of the mountaineering expeditions and trekking parties maintained in the Ministry of Tourism. Information on mountaineering and trekking tourism, in the open areas where mountaineering or trekking permits are not required, is not included in this Report. Response ratio as a result of efforts made for collection of data on Adventure Tourism is presented in table No.1.

Table No.1 : Response Ratio During 2004-2005 (Nos) Year 2004 2005 Frame size (a) 79 84 Adventure Tourism Contacted Response (b) 79 84 (c) 69 67 % of Response 87 80

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Note:

a) b) c)

Applications received. Parties/Organizations Contacted. Parties/Organizations Responded.

ADVENTURE TOURISM IN PAKISTAN 2005


Introduction: Nature has blessed Pakistan with unique topography, the high mountains, plateau, plains, deserts and the luring sunny beaches are all found here. However, more than fifty percent of its area is mountainous, particularly its Northern and North Western regions which possess the most fascinating mountains on earth. The mighty ranges of the Karakoram, the Himalayas and Hindu Kush make a rendezvous here. Magnificent wreckage of continents in collision fifty million years ago, an immense island collided with mainland Asia to create the Indo Pak Sub-continent and pushed the Himalayas skyward. There are five peaks above 8000 meters out of total fourteen on earth including K-2 (8611 m), the second highest in the world. There over 150 peaks with summits above 7000 meters and 728 peaks above 6000 meters. This unique characteristics offer immense opportunities of adventure tourism including Mountaineering and Trekking. I - Mountaineering: Mountaineering tourism showed a slight decline in year 2005. As many as 84 expeditions from 27 different countries applied for booking of various peaks, however only 67 expeditions visited Pakistan for mountaineering, resulting into 17 cancellation.

The following main important aspects of mountaineering tourism are explained:i) ii) iii) iv) v) vi) vii) viii) Over-all View: Pakistan received 67 mountaineering expeditions in 2005 coming from 27 different countries for scaling various peaks located in the Northern Areas and Chitral, as compared to 69 expeditions in 2004, showing a decrease of 2.9 percent. The number of members of expeditions also decreased from 603 to 475 mountaineers in 2005, showing a fall of 21.2 percent over previous year. The reason for small decline in mountaineering expeditions was that no major event was held in 2005 like 51st Anniversary of Nanga Parbat and Golden Jubilee Celebration of K-2, held in 2004, 5 Over-all View. Demographic profile. Age, Gender and Nationality. Occupation. Peaks Conquered. Royalty Paid. Deaths/Casualties. Expenditure.

which attracted more mountaineers. Spain and France were the leading countries with seven expeditions each comprising 40 & 30 members respectively that visited Pakistan for mountaineering in 2005. Table No.2 : Over-all View in Respect of Mountaineering Expeditions that Visited Pakistan 1986 through 2005 (Nos)
Year Mountaineering Expeditions % change Over previous year Members of Expeditions % Change Over Previous year

1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

52 47 54 41 48 52 58 59 50 59 56 57 50 64 67 70 29 61 69 67

(-) 1.9 (-) 9.6 14.9 (-) 24.1 17.1 8.3 11.5 1.7 (-) 15.3 18.0 (-) 5.1 1.8 (-) 12.3 28.0 4.7 4.5 (-) 58.6 110.3 13.1 (-) 2.9

422 325 400 299 397 393 426 431 393 384 422 500 313 461 407 485 210 466 603 475

3.2 (-) 23.0 23.1 (-) 25.3 32.8 (-) 1.0 8.4 1.2 (-) 8.8 (-) 2.3 9.9 18.5 (-) 37.4 47.3 (-) 11.7 19.2 (-) 56.7 121.9 29.4 (-) 21.2

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The long-term trend in the above table shows that there is an irregular movement in expeditions and it fluctuated in the range of 29 and 70. The maximum expeditions (70 Nos) and (69 Nos) visited Pakistan in 2001 and 2004 where as the minimum number of expeditions (29 Nos) came in 2002. Similarly there is an irregular movement in number of members of the expeditions during the last 20 years. The highest number i.e. 603 came in 2004, whereas the minimum number i.e. 210 came in 2002.

Demographic Profile Age and Gender: The age and gender composition of the mountaineers who visited Pakistan in the years 2004 and 2005 are given in the following table:
Table No.3: Age & Gender Composition of Mountaineers during 2004-2005

(Nos)
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Age & Gender 15 30 Male Female Male as % of Overall 31 40 Male Female Male as % of Overall 41 50 Male Female Male as % of Overall 51 & above Male Female Male as % of Overall Total Male Female Male as % of Overall

2004 124 114 10 91.9 254 236 18 92.9 154 140 14 90.9 71 66 5 93.0 603 556 47 92.2

2005 81 69 12 85.2 215 190 25 88.4 105 98 7 93.3 74 66 8 89.2 475 423 52 89.1

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

It would be seen from the above table that:Mountaineering is a male dominated activity. Mountaineering expeditions overwhelmingly consisted male members comprising as high as 89.1 percent in 2005. The highest numbers of mountaineers were in the age group of 3140 years (45.3 percent), followed by age group 41-50 years (22.1 percent), 1530 years (17.1 percent) and 51 & above (15.6 percent). Occupation: The occupational distribution of members of the mountaineering expeditions is shown in the table No.4:
Table No.4 : Occupational Classification of the Mountaineers During 2004-2005 (Nos)

Occupation Professionals Technicians Executives Teachers Businessmen Un-Classified Total:

2004 54 4 10 15 4 516 603

2005 102 13 19 28 16 297 475

% Share in 2005 21.5 2.7 4.0 5.9 3.4 62.5 100

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

It would be seen from above table that: In 2005, 21.5 percent mountaineers were professionals, followed by teachers (5.9 percent), executives (4.0 percent), businessmen (3.4 percent) and technicians (2.7 percent). 8

Seasonality: The indices of seasonal variation in respect of mountaineering activities in Pakistan is shown in the following table: Table No.5 : Indices of Seasonal Variation in Mountaineering Expeditions during 2004-2005 (Base year 1991 = 100) Peak Month May Expeditions Members June Expeditions Members July Expeditions Members August Expeditions Members Seasonality Ratio Expeditions Members 2004 118 147 237 262 71 51 17 144 2.6 2.5 2005 82 79 195 209 114 88 33 40 3.3 3.5

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The above table indicates that: In 2005, the most popular months for expeditions were June and July with index being 195 and 114 respectively. The seas0020onal ratio is obtained by dividing the highest monthly arrivals with the average arrivals during the year. It was 3.3 for expeditions and 3.5 for members.

Peaks Conquered by Mountaineers: The position on success rate peak-wise in 2005 is shown in the following table: Table No.6 : Peaks Attempted/Conquered by Mountaineers during 2004-2005 (Nos)
Name of Peaks/year K-2 Nanga Parbat Gasherbrum-I Broad Peak Gasherbrum-II Other Peaks Total

2004 Attempted 98 34 42 Conquered 46 13 14 % of Success 46.9 38.2 33.3 2005 Attempted 39 57 48 Conquered -37 14 % of Success -64.9 29.2 Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

51 10 19.6 27 8 29.6

112 23 20.5 71 15 21.1

151 59 39.1 105 21 20.0

488 165 33.8 347 95 27.4

It would be seen from the above table that: In 2005, the most popular peak was Gasherbrum-II, which attracted the highest number of mountaineers, followed by Nanga Parbat, GasherbrumI, K-2 and Broad Peak. The overall 27.4 percent of mountaineers were successful in reaching the peaks during 2005. The most successful attempts were made on Nanga Parbat with success ratio of (64.9 percent), followed by Broad Peak (29.6 percent), Gasherbrum-I (29.2 percent) and Gasherbrum-II (21.1 percent).

Peaks Conquered by Expeditions: In 2005, 67 expeditions attempted different peaks of various altitude. Gasherbrum-II, located in Karakoram, received maximum number of expeditions, followed by Nanga Parbat and K-2 as reflected in the following table: Table No.7 : Success Ratio of Main Peaks Conquered by Expeditions during 2005 (Nos)
Peaks Ranges Expeditions Attempted Expeditions Conquered Successful %

K-2 (8611 M) Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Gasherbrum-I (8068 M) Broad Peak (8047 M) Gasherbrum-II (8035 M) Others (Less than 8000 M) Total:

Karakoram Himalayas Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram/ Himalayas/ Hindu Kush

08 12 06 05 14 22 67

Nil 09 02 02 6 04 23

Nil 75.0 33.3 40.0 42.9 18.2 34.3

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The data in the above table shows that: Out of 67 expeditions, 14 teams attempted Gasherbrum-II, 12 teams Nanga Parbat, eight teams K-2, six teams Gasherbrum-I, five teams Broad Peak, while 22 teams attempted other peaks less than 8000 meter. In all nine expeditions conquered Nanga Parbat, six Expeditions conquered Gasherbrum-II and two expeditions each conquered

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Gasherbrum-I and Broad Peak whereas four expeditions conquered less than 8000 meters. Royalty Paid: The Royalty paid by expeditions during 1986 through 2005 are given in the following table: Table No.8 : Royalty Paid by Expeditions 1986 through 2005 Year 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Royalty Paid (US$ Million) 0.065 0.069 0.104 0.080 0.101 0.114 0.153 0.178 0.407 0.390 0.402 0.706 0.396 0.461 0.547 0.555 0.136 0.293 0.382 0.309 Average Royalty Per (US$) Expedition Mountaineer 1250 154 1476 213 1924 260 1961 269 2114 256 2189 290 2633 358 3008 412 8144 1036 6606 1015 7177 952 12385 1412 7925 1266 7208 1001 8168 1345 7933 1145 4700 649 4807 629 5539 634 4605 650 % change (-) 48.3 6.7 49.8 (-) 22.6 26.3 12.1 34.2 16.2 129.4 (-) 4.3 3.1 75.7 (-) 43.9 16.4 18.6 1.5 (-) 75.5 115.1 30.4 (-) 19.1

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

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It would be seen from the above table that: In 2005, royalty received from expeditions decreased from US $ 0.382 million in 2004 to US $ 0.309 million in 2005, reflecting a decrease of 19.1 percent over the previous year.

The long-term trends reflect that there is irregular movement in royalty earned from mountaineering during the last 20 years. The maximum royalty (US $ 0.706 million) was earned in 1997, whereas the minimum royalty (US $ 0.065 million) was earned in 1986. Royalty Rates: In the wake of environmental awareness, royalty rates for attempting peaks were first introduced in 1975. These were revised upward in 1983, 1985, 1990, 1992, 1994 and 1999, whereas the royalty rates were reduced by 50% during the calendar year 2002 and are currently effective since then. The royalty rates are shown in the following table:
Table No.9 : Historical perspective of Royalty Rates for Scaling Peaks of Various Heights during 1975 to 2005 (US $)
Years Royalty rate of K-2 (8611 M) Royalty rate of peaks of a height of 8000 M & above (8001-8500 M) Royalty rate of peaks of height of 7500 M & above (7501-8000 M) Royalty rate of peaks of height of 7000 M & above (7001-7500 M) Royalty rate of peaks of height of 6000 M & above (6001-7000 M)

1975 1983 1985 1990 1992 1994 1999 2002 2003 2004 2005

1364 -2360 (+ 73.0) 2970 (+ 25.8) 3032 (+2.1) 3000 (-1.1) 9000 (+200.0) 12000 (+33.3) 6000 (-50.0) 6000 -6000 -6000

909 -1574 (+73.2) 2310 (+46.8) 2332 (+1.0) 2500 (+7.2) 7500 (+200.0) 9000 (+20.0) 4500 (-50.0) 4500 -4500 -4500

727 -1180 (+62.3) 1650 (+39.8) 1632 (-1.1) 1800 (+10.3) 3000 (+66.7) 4000 (+33.3) 2000 (-50.0) 2000 -2000 -2000

636 -944 (+48.4) 1320 (+39.8) 1306 (-1.1) 1500 (+14.9) 2000 (+33.3) 2500 (+25.0) 1250 (-50.0) 1250 -1250 -1250

545 -551 (+1.1) 990 (+79.7) 933 (-5.8) 1000 (+7.2) 1200 (+20.0) 1500 (+25.0) 750 (-50.0) Exempted Exempted Exempted

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism. Note: Figures in parenthesis show percentage increase/decrease in royalty rates. Deaths/Casualties:

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Mountaineering and Trekking are high-risk activities and sometimes involve fatal accidents. While climbing high altitude mountains, land slides, adverse weather, extreme cold and avalanches pose danger to mountaineers. The data on tragic fatal accidents is presented in the following table:Table No.10 : Deaths due to Mountaineering During 1990-2005 Year 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Deaths 06 05 06 13 08 14 11 10 06 08 03 04 03 06 06 04 (Nos) Average Death Per Expedition Mountaineer 0.125 0.015 0.096 0.013 0.103 0.014 0.220 0.030 0.160 0.020 0.237 0.036 0.196 0.026 0.175 0.020 0.120 0.019 0.125 0.017 0.045 0.007 0.057 0.008 0.103 0.014 0.098 0.013 0.087 0.010 0.060 0.008

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

It would be seen from the above table that: In the year 2005, four mountaineers lost their lives while attempting different peaks in Pakistan, showing a decrease in death causalities in 2005. During the last 16 years, 113 mountaineers or on average seven mountaineers per year lost their lives while attempting different peaks in Pakistan.

Expenditure: The item-wise average expenditure has been worked out on the basis of details provided by expeditions. This, however, does not include the amount of royalty paid to the Government of Pakistan. 13

The details are exhibited in the following table:


Table No.11 : Item-wise Average Expenditure Per Mountaineer During 2004-2005 (US$)

Items International Fare. Luggage Freight Local Transport Accommodation Food Shopping & souvenir Sight Seeing Others Total Average Expenditure

2004 1033 165 247 335 254 416 29 229 2708

2005 1107 360 477 262 341 320 136 836 3839

% Change 7.2 118.2 93.1 (-) 21.8 34.3 (-) 23.1 369.0 265.1 41.8

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The above table reflects that: The total average expenditure per mountaineer during 2005, increased from a level of US $ 2708 in 2004 to US $ 3839, showing an increase of 41.8 percent, compared to previous year. In respect of item-wise expenditure the maximum increase was observed in sight seeing (369.0 percent), followed by luggage freight (118.2 percent), local transport (93.1 percent), food (34.3 percent), international fare (7.2 percent), while decrease was noted in shopping (23.1 percent), followed by accommodation (21.8 percent). In 2005, mountaineers spent about five times on sight seeing compared in what they spent in 2004. On luggage freight and local transport, mountaineers spent about two times in 2005 as compared to previous year. They have also spent more in 2005 on international fare and food, compared to 2004. However, shopping and souvenir were performed less in 2005 compared to 2004. It appears that accommodation was relatively cheaper in 2005 as compared to 2004.

Manpower involved in the Mountaineering activities: In 2005, the mountaineering expeditions hired 4099 porters. Out of this, 60 were high altitude porters while 4039 were low altitude porters. Opinions of Mountaineering Expeditions: Opinions of mountaineering expeditions on services provided by different organizations, status of mountain peaks, environment of mountains, weaknesses for promoting adventure tourism in Pakistan were obtained as detailed below:Rating of Services Provided by Different Organizations: 14

Mountaineering expeditions were asked to rate the services provided by the different organizations of Pakistan. The replies are presented in the following table: Table No. 12: Opinions of Expeditions on services provided by different Organizations of Pakistan. Rating Pakistan Missions Abroad Immigration/Customs Ministry of Tourism Airline/PIA Alpine Club of Pakistan Adventure Foundation of Pakistan Local Administration/ Police Tour Operator/ Travel Agents Liaison Officer/Tourist Guide High Altitude /Low Altitude Porters Helicopter Evacuation Availability of Ration/funds
Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Satisfactory 50 58 58 49 54 32 52 60 60 64 52 47

(Nos) Unsatisfactory 10 5 1 5 1 1 2 2 4 4 8 1

It would be seen from the above table that: Most of expeditions were satisfied with the services of High Altitude/ Low Altitude Porters followed by Tour Operators/ Travel Agents and Liaison Officers/ Tourist Guides, Immigration & Customs, Ministry of Tourism and Pakistan Mission Abroad.

Popular Peaks in Terms of Height: The mountaineering expeditions were asked to indicate mountaineering peaks in Pakistan which carry high appeal. The detail of the responses are given in table No. 13.

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Table No. 13: Popular Peaks in Terms of Height. Name of Peak K-2 Nanga Parbat Gasherbrum-I Gasherbrum-II Broad Peak Gasherbrum-III Gasherbrum-IV Distaghil Sar Main Kuynyang Chhish/ Main Masherbrum NE (K-I) Raka Poshi Tirich Mir (Main) Chogolisa Spantik Latak-I Latok-III Ogre-III Dir Gdgom K-7 Phuparash-I Liala Peak Trango Tower Ludukush Above 8000 M 47 34 30 35 26 ------------------Above 7000 M -----8 27 5 6 19 22 17 2 23 1 --------(Nos) Above 6000 M ---------------19 18 4 19 3 2 1 1

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The above table indicates that: According to the mountaineering expeditions, among the peaks above 8000 M, K-2 carries the highest appeal. Among above 7000 M peaks, Gasherbrum-IV has the highest appeal. For above 6000 M peaks, Latok-III and K-7 were rated most appealing.

Overall Quality of Environment of Mountains of Pakistan compared to Nepal, India and China. Mountaineering expeditions were asked to rate the overall quality of environment of the mountains of Pakistan as compared to Nepal, India and China and their responses are presented in the table No. 14. Table No. 14 : Overall Quality of Environment of Mountains in Pakistan Compared to Nepal, India and China. (Nos) 16

Very Good Pakistan Nepal India China The above table shows that: 34 18 5 7

Better 17 22 11 19

Poor 10 5 10 9

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Most expeditions have viewed that overall quality of environment of mountains in Pakistan is very good, compared to Nepal, India and China.

Weaknesses for Promoting Adventure Tourism in Pakistan. Mountaineering expeditions were asked to identify the weaknesses for promoting adventure tourism in Pakistan. The replies are presented in the following table:Table No. 15: Opinions of Mountaineering Expeditions on Weaknesses of Adventure Tourism in Pakistan. Weaknesses (i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v) (vi) (vii) (viii) (ix) (x) (xi) (xii) (xiii) High Mountaineering Royalty/ Trekking Fee No precise tourist image High prices in Comparison to the region Unsafe destination Inadequate air link Poor quality accommodation Lack of publicity material/ weak marketing. Lack of entertainment facilities Ground tour operators are not well trained/ non-availability of trained porters No requirement of liaison officer Alcohol should be allowed within Hotel Entry visa Commercial Helicopter. (Nos) Response 31 18 8 9 14 9 22 13 4 2 1 1 1

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

According to opinion of expeditions, the main weaknesses for promoting adventure tourism in Pakistan are high mountaineering royalty/ trekking fee, followed by lack of publicity material and weak marketing, no precise tourist image, inadequates air link and lack of entertainment facilities.

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Environmental Conditions of Mountains in Pakistan after Five Years. The expeditions were asked to indicate the conditions of mountains in Pakistan after five years. The opinions are presented as follows:Table No. 16: Opinions on Environmental Conditions in Mountains in Pakistan after five years

(i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v)

Remarks Significantly Improve Improve slightly Generally remain the same Decline slightly Decline Significantly Total

(Nos) Response 17 20 21 3 6 67

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

According to most expeditions the conditions of mountains environment in Pakistan will remain same or it will improve slightly, whereas 17 expeditions considered that it would significantly improve, six have opined that it will decline significantly and three expeditions considered it would decline slightly.

Rating the Mountaineering Routes in Terms of Pollution: The mountaineering expeditions were asked to indicate the rating of the mountaineering routes in terms of pollutions. The responses are presented in table No. 17. Table No. 17: Opinions on Mountaineering routes in terms of pollution. Route i) Skardu Askole Baltoro GlacierGodwin Austen Glacier (K-2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II) Nanga Parbat-Diamir Face-Buner Das-Diamorai-Upper Jail-Kachal-Kot Gali. Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face-Tashring Rupal-Polish Camp Mashbrum : Skardu Khaplu Hushe Spantik : Skardu Shigar DhokuArandu Chogolugma GL Trango Tower : Chilas Skardu, Askok-Jhola Rakaposhi Gilgit-Gulmit-North Ridge Lightly Polluted 25 Polluted 32 (Nos) Extremely Polluted 14

ii) iii) iv) v) vi) vii)

6 2 1 6 2 --

3 2 1 2 2 --

---1 1 --

18

Route viii) Trichmir: Chitral-Lasht ZundrangramShangram- Shugar, Biyasan, Lower Trinch Glacier-Upper Trinch Glacier.

Lightly Polluted 1

Polluted --

Extremely Polluted --

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Above table shows that: According to most of the expeditions the most polluted mountaineering route is Gasherbrum-I, Skardu-Askole-Paiju-Urdukas-Concordia, followed by Gasherbrum-II - Skardu - Askole- Paiju-Urdukas- Concordia while lightly polluted mountaineering route is K-2, Skardu-Askalo-Baltoro Glacier-Godwin Austen Glacier.

Main Causes of Environmental Degradation in Pakistan: The mountaineering expeditions were asked to indicate the main causes of environmental degradation. The responses are tabulated as follows:Table No. 18: Opinions on Main Causes of Environmental Degradation. Causes i) ii) iii) iv) v) Human and Animal Waste Discarded Mountaineering Gear/ Containers Damage to Wild Life Cutting of Forests Soil erosion Negligible 3 6 13 4 5 Low 9 11 8 11 6 Moderate 8 12 5 8 9 High 12 6 2 9 6 (Nos) Very High 13 5 1 3 2

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

According to above table the main causes of environmental degradation are very high due to human and animal waste, discarded mountaineering gear/ containers, cutting of forests and soil erosion.

Suggestions by Mountaineers: The nationality-wise suggestions taken from the briefing and debriefing proformas filled in by the adventure tourists are presented in the following table:Table No.19 : Nationality-wise Problems Identified by Mountaineers during 2005 Nationality Problems Identified by Mountaineers

19

Norwegian

Condition of road from Skardu to Askole should be improved. There should be an all weather landing facility available at Skardu Airport, Liaison Officer should have authority to do briefing at the beginning except special cases. Arranging the visit of private tour operators out side countries with financial assistance from Government. Carrying out competition at some big ceremony like 14th August or 23rd March. Helicopter registration fee is too expensive. Heights and location of various unknown peaks around different glaciers may be provided on tourism website. Visa may be issued in Pakistan on arrival and not at respective countries. Salary of porters to be re-scheduled. All human and animal waste must be removed from approach march route every year. There should be a clear rule for porter wages. Porters should not move on route with out full equipment. Porters should be educated on medicine administration. Every tour company should hire porters to bring everything back to Askole/ Hushe. Education/ awareness of low altitude porters about garbage should be improved.

German Swiss

Japanese Italian

Spanish Chinese Georgian Lithuanian

Argentinean

Peak-wise successfull expeditions during 2005 with brief profile of the leaders

K-2 (8611M)
No Expedition Summit the Peak

NANGA PARBAT (8125M)


1 French Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak:

Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 20-7-2005 at 1200 hrs

20

2 3 4

Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Georgia ATP Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Japan Gumma, Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Republic of Korea, Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address:

Mr. Arvis Philippe French 16.6.1962 20 rue du Moulin 92160 Antony Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 15-7-2005 at 1500 hrs 20-7-2005 at 0930 hr 25-7-2005 at 1200 hrs Mr. Gia Tortladze Georgian 12-6-1960 119-7, Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 15-7-2005 at 1430 hrs. Mr. Kemmochi Noriyuki Japanese 17-6-1969 370-0105 Gumma-Ken, Isesaki City Sakaimati Iyoku 3227-6, Japan Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 14-7-2005 at 2241 hrs Mr. Lee Sung Won Republic of Korea 1-1-1961 506-1004, Hyundae A.P.T., Joe-rae dong, Sun-Chon-S1, Jeonnam, Korea.

21

5 6 7 8 9

Spanish Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Spanish Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Spanish Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Switzerland Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: USA Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address:

Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 15-7-2005 at 1500 hrs Mr. Jorge Egocheage Rodriguez Spanish 11-7-1968 C/Hermanos Pidat 24-1-D, Oviedo

Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 20-7-2005 at 0845 hrs &1100 hrs 21-7-2005 at 0845 hrs Mr. Edurne Pasaban Spanish 1-8-1973 Edificiq Moviolas Prado, Del Rey 28223 Pozuelo de Lavcon Madrid, Spain Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 20-7-2005 at 0900 hrs, 1000 hrs, 1030 hrs, 1100 hrs, 1200 hrs & 1500 hrs Mr. Carlos Pauner Spanish 9-6-1964 Lorente 32, 4-Zaragoza,Spain Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 26-6-2005 at 1500 hors Mr. Andre Georges Swiss 20-9-1953 Suen 1969 St. Martin, Switzerland Nanga Parbat (8125 M) 7-9-2005 at 1745 hrs Mr. Steven House USA 4-8-1970 2679 NW Shields Drive, Bend OR, 97701 USA

GASHERBRUM I (8068 M)

22

1 2

Japan JWAF GB-I (8068-M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Korean Gyeonggi GB-I (8068 M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Address:

GB-I (8068 M) 28.7.2005 at 1210 hrs & 1240 hrs Mr. Kondo Kaz uyoshi Japanese 22-11-1941 Tokyo Suginami-Ku, Igusa 1-4-16-307, Japan GB-I (8068 M) 28.7.2005 at 0450 hrs 10.8.2005 at 0615 hrs Mr. Nam Sang IK South Korean 134-2, Gyo-Dong, Pattol, Gu, Suwon City, Gyeonggi province.

BROAD PEAK ( 8074 M)


1 2 1 2 Italian Broad Peak (8047-M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Newzealand/USA Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address:

Broad Peak (8047 M) 21-7-2005 at 1530 hrs, 1630 hrs & 1730 hrs Mr. Roberto Piantoni Italian 2-6-1977 Via Giardini 464/N, 41100, Modena, Italia Broad Peak (8047-M) 21-7-2005 at 1430 hrs & 1440 hrs Mr. Martin Walter Schmidt, Newzealand 10-6-1960 2/632 Nelson Street, North Hastings, Newzealand.

GASHERBRUM II (8035 M)
German Amical Alpine Club, GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: German Summit Club, GB-II (8035M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: GB-II (8035-M) 21-7-2005 at 1530 hrs Mr. Stephen Keck, Austrian 25-9-1973 Friheit Ssied Lung 22 Schwaz, Austria GB-II (8035-M) 15-8-2005 at 1300 hrs Mr. Thomas Laemmle German

23

3 4 5 6

Date of Birth: Address: Italian International GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Russian International GB-II (8035M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Turkey GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: USA and Canada GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address:

11-7-1965 Edensbach 190/D-88289, Waldburg, Germany GB - II (8035 M) 21-7-2005 at 1330 hrs Mr. Ennio Antonello Italian 3-4-1962 Via Giardini 464/N, 41101,Modena-Italia GB-II (8035-M) 22-7-2005 at 1200 hrs 23-7-2005 at 1700 hrs Mr. Shripko Viacheslay Russian 1-8-1952 Moscow Zelenograd, 336-13, Russia GB-II (8035-M) 22-7-2005 at 1730 hrs Mr. Serhan Pocan Turkish 11-4-1970 Bu day Sokak 13/9, Kavakl dere, Ankara, Turkey GB-II (8035-M) 21-7-2005 at 1400 hrs Mr. Charles Duncan Fowler USA 18-2-1954 1240 Spruce Street, Norwood Colorado, USA 81423

SARAGHRAR (7208 M)
1 Switzerland Saraghrar (7208-M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality:

Saraghrar (7208-M) 27.7.2005 & 29.7.2005 at 1200 hrs & 1230 hrs Mr. Jean Michel Zweiacker Swiss

24

Date of Birth: Address:

17.6.1970 CH-2208 Les, Hauts-Geneveys Switzerland

SPANTIK ( 7027 M)
1 2 3 U.K. Jagged Globe Spantik (7027 M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: German Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address: Switzerland Spantik (7027 M), Expedition 2005 Name/Height of Peak: Date/Time of Conquering Peak: Name of the Leader: Nationality: Date of Birth: Address:

Spantik (7027 M), 21-8-2005 at 0700 hrs & 0830 hrs Ms Pamela Chaire Narvin British 8-7-1949 67 Castle Road, Hartshill Nuneaton, Warwickshire, CV 10,0SG UK

Spantik (7027-M) 15.8.2005 at 1400 hrs Mr. Kern Bernard Hermann German 13.2.1955 Jacob-Burckhardt-Str.1, D-78464 Konstanz Germany

Spantik (7027-M) 16-9-2005 at 1100 hrs 17-9-2005 at 1330 hrs Mr. Alexander Gisler Swiss 1-4-1973 Pappelweg 21, CH-3013, Bern, Schweiz, Switzerland

25

Country-wise Successful Expeditions during 2005


FRANCE GEORGIA ATP GERMANY Nanga Parbat (8125 M) , Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Spantik (7027-M), Expedition 2005 Broad Peak (8047-M), Expedition 2005 GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 GB-I (8068-M), Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 GB-I (8068 M), Expedition 2005 Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2005 GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M), Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M), Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M), Expedition 2005 Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Expedition 2005 Saraghrar, (7208 M) Expedition 2005 Spantik (7027 M) Expedition 2005 GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005 Jagged Globe Spantik, (7027 M), Expedition 2005

ITALY

JAPAN

KOREA

NEWZEALAND/USA RUSSIA SPAIN

SWITZERLAND

TURKEY U.K. U.S.A. USA & CANADA

Nanga Parbat (8125 M), Expedition 2005


GB-II (8035-M), Expedition 2005

26

II - Trekking:

27

Pakistan has unique landscape for trekking. The trekking areas are divided into two zones (i) Open Zone and (ii) Restricted Zone. (i) Open Zone: It includes districts of Rawalpindi, Abbottabad, Mansehra, Kohistan, Dir, Swat and Diamir. (ii) Restricted Zone: The restricted zone for which a permit is essential includes; Chitral, Gilgit and Skardu. The information presented in the following pages is in respect of restricted zone only, because information on trekking in the open zone is not made available by the handling agents. The analysis of trekking tourism in Pakistan during 2005 is presented below: Over-all View Structural Features. Nationality Trekkers Fee.

Overall View: Pakistan has unique landscape for trekking. Its trekking ranges are spread throughout the Northern Areas like mountaineering (list of treks see at table No.18 of appendix). The trekking in Pakistan showed an accelerated growth in 2004 after set back met in 2002 and 2003 due to 9/11 incident. For the first time in the last 20 years of Trekking history of Pakistan the trekking tourism had set a new record in 2004. A number of members of the trekking parties also showed remarkable increase in 2004 i.e.1776 but in 2005 there is a small decline in trekking parties and number of trekkers. In 2005, Pakistan hosted 251 trekking parties as compared to 255 in 2004, showing a slight decline of 1.6 percent while number of trekkers coming down from 1776 to 1443 showing 18.8 percent drop over previous year. The attribute for small decline in trekking was that no major event was held in 2005 like 51st Anniversary of Nanga Parbat and Golden Jubilee Celebration of K-2 held in 2004 which attracted more trekkers. Long Term Trend: Long term trend is presented in the following table: Table No.20 : Trekking Parties and Trekkers- A Long Term Analysis 28

1990 through 2005 Year 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Parties 69 64 89 97 128 129 166 197 165 181 168 245 43 106 255 251 % Change over previous year 27.8 (-) 7.2 39.1 9.0 32.0 0.8 28.7 18.7 (-) 16.2 9.7 (-) 7.2 45.8 (-) 82.4 146.5 140.6 (-) 1.6 Trekkers 400 343 557 631 697 823 912 1102 950 803 889 1318 99 377 1776 1443 (Nos) % change over previous year 47.1 (-) 14.3 62.4 13.3 10.5 18.1 10.8 20.8 (-) 13.8 (-) 15.5 10.7 48.3 (-) 92.5 280.8 371.1 (-) 18.8

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The long term trend shows that movement in number of trekking parties and trekkers during the last 16 years, fluctuated between 43 and 255. The highest number of trekking parties (255 Nos) visited Pakistan in 2004 while minimum number of trekking parties (43 Nos) came in 2002. Similarly the maximum number of trekkers (1776 Nos) came in 2004, while minimum (99 Nos) number of trekkers were received in 2002.

Structural Features: The main features of trekking in restricted zones are given below: Nationality: Trekking parties from 34 different countries visited Pakistan during 2005. Details are given in the following table: Table No.21 : Nationality-wise Trekkers Distribution during 2004-2005 (Nos)
Sl.#. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Nationality Parties American Argentina Australian Austrian Belgian 13 -05 08 02 2004 Trekkers 22 -14 39 06 Parties 17 -07 07 01 2005 Trekkers 75 01 43 38 04

29

6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50.

Brazilian British Bulgarian Canadian Chinese Cubic Czechoslovak Danish Dutch French Georgian German Greek Gutemala Hong Kong Hungarian Iranian Irish Italian Japanese Kazak Kenya Kuwaiti Kyrgyzstan Lithuanian Malaysian Mexican Namibian Nepalese New Zealander Norwegian Polish Portuguese Russian Singaporean Slovakian Slovenian South African South Korean Spanish Swedish Swiss Taiwan Thai Ukrainian Total:

01 19 01 03 01 -04 01 04 11 01 27 ----01 01 59 26 ----01 ----02 03 02 -01 -04 05 02 05 31 01 10 ---255

04 102 06 09 02 -30 01 25 55 01 137 ----03 05 885 109 01 -02 01 04 01 06 01 01 06 04 04 -05 03 26 13 18 30 154 08 33 ---1776

-27 02 06 -01 05 -05 22 -25 01 -01 -01 -18 24 ------03 -02 03 01 05 -02 01 03 01 05 14 25 03 10 01 01 01 251

-164 03 17 01 05 37 -28 123 -131 01 01 06 01 02 09 143 151 -01 ----09 01 04 21 07 20 02 20 06 26 05 20 105 156 05 36 04 03 08 1443

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

It would be seen from the above table that: Out of 251 trekking parties, the highest number i.e. 27 trekking parties came from Britain, followed by 25 each from Germany and Spain, 24 from Japan, 22 from France, 18 from Italy, 17 from USA, 14 from South Korea, Seven each from Australia and Austria, six from Canada, Five each from 30

Czechoslovak, Netherlands, Poland and South Africa, three each from Mexico, Newzeland, Slovakia and Sweden, two each from Bulgaria, Nepal and Russia, one each from Belgium, Cuba, Greek, Hong Kong, Iran, Norway, Slovenia, Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan and Ukraine. Trekking Rate & Fee paid by Trekkers: Upto 1992 a nominal trekking fee of US $ 7 or equivalent in Pakistani Rupees used to be charged from each trekker in restricted zone which was revised upward to US $ 20 or equivalent in Pakistani Rupees in 1993; and was again revised to US $ 50 or equivalent in Pakistani Rupees in 2000. Trekking in open areas is allowed free without official permit and fee. The details of the trekking fee earned in 1985 through 2004 is given in the following table: Table No. 22 : Trekking Fee Paid by Trekkers during 1986 through 2005 Year 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001
Year Trekking Fee Earned (Rs .in Million)

Average Amount Per Trekker (Rs.) 100 100 100 100 100 100 102 680 766 980 711 1003 1037 1058 2916 2986 Party (Rs.) 633 558 610 50.4 580 558 636 4423 4172 5677 3905 5610 5969 4693 15428 16064

% change over previous year (-) 66.7 (-) 14.2 41.0 (-) 9.0 47.1 (-) 10.8 58.5 658.0 24.5 37.1 (-) 11.5 70.5 (-) 10.9 (-) 13.7 205.0 51.8
% change over previous year

0.025 0.021 0.030 0.270 0.040 0.030 0.057 0.429 0.534 0.732 0.648 1.105 0.985 0.849 2.591 3.936
Trekking Fee Earned (Rs .in Million)

Average Amount Per

Trekker Party (Rs.) (Rs.) 2002 0.304 3069 7067 2003 1.110 2945 10475 2004 5.244 2953 20564 2005 4.494 3114 17903 Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism. *Average rate during calendar year 2005 = 1US$=Rs.59.36 Source: Statistical Bulletin by State Bank of Pakistan Edition January 2005. It would be seen from the above table that:-

(-) 92.3 265.1 372.4 (-) 14.3

31

The earnings from trekking fee for trekking in the restricted zone during 2005, was Rs.4.494 million equivalent to US $ 75700 compared to Rs.5.244 million equivalent to US $ 89950 in 2004, showing a decrease of 14.3 percent. The main reason of decrease in royalty fee is decrease in numbers of trekkers. Long term trend indicates several ups and down in trekking fee earned during the last 20 years. The maximum trekking fee of Rs.5.244 million, was received in 2004, whereas lowest trekking fee of Rs.0.021 million was received in 1987.

Treks used by Trekkers. Position of Treks used by trekkers during 2005 is presented in the following table:Table No. 23 : Position of Treks Used by Trekkers during 2005: Serial Number of Trek 1 3 12 26 35 50 51 56 57. Name of Trek Baltoro Gondo Kodro Hushe Panmah Glacier Simpass Hushe Valley Shamshal Chapchingal Pass Asumsar & Ishkoman Pass Turkhow Valley Shah Junali Chillui Pass Chilinji Trek Tirich Valley Total Number of Trekking Parties visited 224 1 12 2 1 1 2 6 2 251

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

The above table shows: The most popular trek was Baltoro Gondo Kodro Hushe, which received 224 parties, followed by Hushe valley trek, 12 trekking parties, two each from Shamshal-Chapclingal pass, Shah Junali Chilluipass and Tirich Valley, one each Panmah Glacier Simpass, Asumsar & Ishkoman Pass and Turkho Valley.

III Conclusions: Mountaineering: In 2005, the number of mountaineering expeditions to Pakistan decreased from 69 to 67, reflecting a small decline of 2.9 percent over 2004, and expedition members showed a decrease of 21.2 percent. 32

The most popular peaks for mountaineering during 2005, were Gasherbrum-II and Nanga Parbat attracting 14 and 12 teams respectively. The Nanga Parbat peak was the most successful peak with 75 percent expeditions conquering it. The amount of Royalty paid by mountaineering expeditions in 2005 came down from US $ 0.382 million in 2004 to US $ 0.309 million, showing a decrease of 19.1 percent. Mountaineering expeditions hired 4099 porters in 2005 as compared to 5108 porters in 2004, showing a decrease of 19.8 percent. During 2005 in all 23 teams and their 95 members were successful in reaching the summits. The most popular mountaineering range was Karakoram. Popular months for expeditions were June and July.

Trekking:

In 2005 Pakistan received 251 trekking parties, as compared to 255 in 2004, showing a decrease of 1.6 percent over the previous year. The number of trekkers also decreased from 1776 in 2004 to 1443 in 2005, showing a decrease of 18.8 percent over the previous year. Trekking fee received from trekking decreased from Rs.5.244 million in 2004 to Rs. 4.94 million in 2005. Trekking parties hired 4604 low altitude porters during 2005. The most popular trek was Baltoro-Gondo-Kodro-Hushe, visited by 224 trekking parties.

33

34

35

36

Annex- I HAZARDOUS RESCUE OF MR TOMAZ HUMAR ON NANGA PARBAT Perhaps the most famous of the mountaineer in 2005 was renowned Slovenian Tomaz Humar, whose story dominated the international electronic and print media in the second week of August 2005. A living legend, he is the most exciting and sensational names in the world of mountaineering today. Born to climb vertical walls after achieving epic climb on the south face of Dhaulagiri in November 1999, the most difficult face of his career, solo and in alpine-style, unfortunately fell while building his home severely damaging both his legs. After a series of operations and finding his legs working he set out to challenge Shisha Pangma in 2002 and took on the Killer Nanga Parbat in 2003, where he was forced back by bad weather. He returned to the mountains in 2005 and started his ultimate challenge up the highest wall in the World Rupal Face in Nanga Parbat on 1st August in an attempt to establish a new route. He had planned to complete the ascent in 3-5 days and trying to be lighter on the difficult ascent had not carried much food and gear. However, he was forced to halt his further climb by a bad weather spell which found him trapped high on the wall on August 4 at about 6000 meters. Everyone waited for a respite in the weather but was not granted. He sent a SOS message to Ministry of Tourism and Nazir Sabir, President ACP on 5 August. A helicopter requisition for Tomazs rescue was placed with Askari Aviation. On opening up of the weather the Allouette arrived in Rupal Base camp and after necessary briefing flew closer to the Rupal Face with another member of Topmazs team Mr Ales. However, they could not close on to the stranded Tomaz but in the process photographed and shot movie to Tomazs location on the icy Rupal Wall. The pressure was mounting and Slovenian Foreign Minister called Pakistans Foreign Minister Mr Khurshid Mehmood Kasuri on 7 August. On 8 Aug Foreign Minister after obtaining briefing from Ministry of Tourism and ACP officials Nazir Sabir and Lt Col (Retd) Manzoor Hussain contacted the concerned Army authorities to accelerate the rescue efforts. He also contacted the Interior Minister for allowing any assistance which may come from abroad to augment the rescue efforts. He emphasized that all resources from within Pakistan and abroad must be requisitioned to save the precious life. Mr Kasuri while speaking to Slovenian Foreign Minister assured him fullest support in the rescue efforts of Mr Tomaz. On 9 August the organizer of Tomazs expedition in Slovenia informed that a transport aircraft loaded with a Lama Rescue helicopter along with expert Swiss Rescue team is standing by at Geneva airport waiting for clearance to Fly to Islamabad. The Defence Secretary and DG Civil Aviation accorded immediate landing permit to the rescue aircrafts at Islamabad Airport and further allowed Rescue helicopter to operate in Northern Areas. The same day one Army Lama flew out from Rawalpindi to Jaglot and was joined in by the locally based Lama and support MI 17 helicopter. The weather, however, prevented their subsequent rescue bid made on the afternoon of 9 August wherein both the helicopters closed into the stranded Tomaz. The Army Aviation crew included Lama helicopter pilots Lt Col. Ubaid, Lt Col. Rashid Ullah Baig, Maj. Naeem, Maj. Khalid and two pilots of the support MI 17 helicopter. 37

On 10 August early in the morning this heroic Rescue operation came to its finale by the Army Aviation dare devil pilots and the Swiss Rescue experts landed at Islamabad. In one of the unique and hazardous rescue attempts ever made at such high altitude, courageous and brave aviators especially Lt Col Rashidullah Baig and Maj Khalid Amin Rana, risking their lives, snatched Humar from death jaws with all to chances of hitting their chopper blades with the vertical wall of the rock and ice; barely a metre away. The rescue was further compounded by the rope which anchored Tomaz with the ice wall. As Tomaz got hold of the rope hanging from the Lama with his ice axe, he failed to open locked carabiner and later cut the rope with a knife. He found himself being pulled by both helicopter rope and the anchor rope. The pilot realizing the predicament applied more power to chopper engine already operating at 100 percent power. Lucky for Tomaz and the pilots at that moment the 5 mm rope broke with Tomaz catapulting towards the helicopter and later swinging around. The pilots drawing upon all their skills and cool, stabilized the aircraft thus averting a tragedy out of this rescue. Mr Tomaz had spent six days at this high altitude sitting cramped on a small table size ledge and a small cave. He was exhausted and frozen. ACP member Javed Hussain was the guide with Tomazs expedition who played an important role in whole of this real life drama. On 12 August Tomazs expedition returned back to Islamabad. On 13 Agust Tomaz accompanied by ACP officials and both the pilots called on Mr Khurshid Mehmood Kasuri, the Foreign Minister to thank him for the excellent support provided by Government of Pakistan and for his personal keen interest and pursuance in the matter. Later the team called on Secretary Tourism and addressed the large gathering of international and domestic Media at 2:15 pm at Holiday Inn Hotel, Islamabad. Paying his rich tributes to the Army pilots Mr Tomaz said The Pakistan Army helicopter pilots seemed to work magic and the coordination of the entire rescue was absolutely outstanding. No Hollywood film could go any where near what these men did on the deadly Rupal Face today, for which I congratulate them. They make you a proud Pakistani. He pledged to celebrate August 10 as his new birthday as the thought he was reborn on this day at the Rupal Base Camp. He also announced construction of a hospital for the people of Tershing. The dramatic episode of Tomazs rescue underscores the will and capabilities of Government of Pakistan in rescuing the stranded mountaineers utilizing all possible resources
Source: Alpine Club of Pakistan,

38

Annex II

Mountaineers & Trekkers in Pakistan in 2005 get certificates by Alpine Club of Pakistan
This year due to various incentives announced by Ministry of Tourism on the advice of the ACP there was substantial increase in mountaineering and trekking activities in Northern Areas. A total of 84 expeditions were permitted to climb high mountains in Northern Areas and Chitral as compared to 69 in 2004. out of these 43 visited Baltoro area, whereas 14 expeditions attempted Nanga Parbat. This year there were two expeditions to Hindukush in Chitral attempting Noshaq and Saraghrar Peaks. In addition there were reports of many mountaineers climbing numerous peaks below 6500 meters. Highest numbers of such expeditions were reported to have attempted Trango tower and adjoining spires/Towers. Similarly there was also increase in number of trekkers as well. The total number of permitted trekking in 2005 was 251 with 99 percent traversing Baltoro glacier going upto K-2 Base Camp and many returning Skardu via high Ghondoghoro Pass and Hushe. There were total of four deaths on the mountains beside, of several injuries. Due to heavy snow fall during the winter in 2005 the weather and snow conditions in Northern Areas in general and Baltoro in particular remained unfavourable to the climbers. There were long spells of persistent bad weather. This year ACP awarded Summit Certificates to all the 95 summiteers who climbed peaks above 7000 meters and reported to ACP. The certificates were duly signed by Secretary Tourism, President and Secretary ACP. An analysis of the mountaineering activity on the major peaks is as under:K-2 Back to Its Might and Fury Although in 2004 K-2, on the occasion of the golden jubilee of its forst ascent was kind in allowing a record number of 46 climbers to reach its summit in a single year. However in 2005 K-2 resumed its full might and fury and did not allow anyone to reach its summit. Nanga Parbat Stormed By Summiteers This year was unique for the Killer Mountain Nanga Parbat which otherwise enjoys reputation of a fierce mountain with fairy queen dwelling near its summit wreaking death and destruction to anyone approaching its icy slopes and a diverse history of tragedies, tribulations and riumphs. This year, however the fairy queen was more than benevolent and let 37 climbers reach Nanga Parbat summit-a record in itself. There were total of 12 expeditions attempting the peak, eight attemping from Diamer face, three from Rupal and one from Rakhikot face with total of 57 climbers. 15 Spaniards from three expedition including famous climber Ms Edurne pasban topped the list of summiteers whereas 20 climbers reached summit on the same day ie, 20 July 2005, from Diamer face setting new records on Nanga Parbat. Four Pakistani climbrs namely Ali Raza (26 39

June), Hassan Jan, Qurban Muhammad and Mehrban Kareem (all on 20 July ) also reached Nanga Parbat summit in the company of foreign expeditions via the Diamer face. American climbers Steven E. House and Vincent R. Anderson accomplished outstanding mountaineering feat establishing a new route on Rupal side climbing the highest vertical wall on Earth nearer to the route earlier attempted by Tomaz Humar, in Alpine style in six days descending from the same route in two days. Koreans Kim Change Ho and Lee Hyun Joo repeated the mountaineering feat of Reinhold Messner of 1970 by climbing the Rupal face on Messner route and descending from the Diamer side. Broad Peak Five expeditions attempted to climb the Broad Peak. The strong Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Sergry Samoliov were able to reach the main summit through a new direct route. Other summiteers included Mario Merelli, Iranian climbr Kazem Faridian and Piotr Pustelink (all rocky summit) Gasherbrum I Six expeditions attempted Gasherbrum I with total of 48 climbers out of which 14 were able to reach its summit. All summits were made on 28 July 05 which included ten Koreans and three Nepalese and one Japanese climber. The Korean expedition led by Mr Nam Sang IK later attempted Gasherbrum II and succeeded in reaching its summit on 10 August 05. A Nepalese member of the Japanese expedition was Killed after reaching the summit when the cornice he was climbing broke plunging him down 300 meters on the rocky patches of the Mountain. Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II as usual was attempted by a large number of mountaineers from the world over. There were total of 14 expeditions with 71 climbers, out of which only 15 managed to reach the summit. These included all the six young members of the first Turkisth expedition ever launched on an 8000 metre high peak. The expedition which including two women climbers, was led by Serhan Pocan. Earlier prior to their departure the team addressed a Press Conference in Rawalpindi which was attended by Minister for Tourism, Turkish Ambassador, ACP President, other ACP officials and members. The leader said that their climb will be a real challenge and they were exceptionally happy for being able to share this climb with the brotherly country Pakistan.
Source: Alpine Club of Pakistan,

40

Annex III BALTORO GETS CLEANED UP Visiting mountaineering expeditions and trekking parties accompanied by large number of local porters on the Baltoro glacier, especially during the previous and current year has resulted in large accumulation of waste in the various camping areas on the glacier. The returning visitors are reporting increased deposits of garbage and human body waste lying on these glacier camps, which decides seriously damaging the local ecology, are becoming a hazard to the visitors health. ACP functioning under the aegis of Ministry of Tourism, therefore, launched Baltoro Clean Up Expedition 2005 commencing from 10 September to undertake clean up of camps on the Baltoro glacier including Concordia, Base camps of K2 and Broad Peak. The team collected about 100 porters loads of all burnable and non burnable garbage to include packing tins, cartons, polythene bags, food stuff etc and carry it out of the area for its correct disposal below Astole, the last village enroute to Baltoro glacier. After burning the burnable material the expedition buried the ashes into the disposal area near Paiyu. The tins and other non burnable non biaodegradable material was ferried back to Skardu.
Source: Alpine Club of Pakistan,

41

42

43

44

Table No.1 : Response Ratio 1996 through 2005 (Nos) Year 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Source: Adventure Tourism Frame size Contacted Response (a) (b) (c) % of Response

78 63 56 89 73 62 57 92 71 58 50 86 64 64 64 100 67 67 67 100 70 70 70 100 40 40 29 73 65 65 61 94 79 79 69 87 84 84 67 80 Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Note: a) Applications received b) Parties/organizations contacted. c) Parties/organizations response.

45

Table No. 2 : List of Mountaineering Expeditions those Visited Pakistan During the Year 2005
S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak Argentina 1 GB-I (8065-M) and GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Damina Alberto Redmond C/o Hushe Treks & Tours, P.o. Box 471, G-9, Markaz, Islamabad. Anibal Maturano Arrabal C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box 1780, Islamabad. 10 11.06.2005 to 12.8.2005 Un-success Leaders Name and Address
Number of Members

Period Availed

Result

Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2005

15

22.6.2005 to 09.8.2005

Un-success

Austria 3 Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Gruber Ignaz C/o Hunza Guides Pakistan P.o. Box 468, G-9, Islamabad. 06 7.7.2005 to 9.8.2005 Un-success

Britain 4 Khurrat Peak (6824-M) Expedition 2005 Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005. Mr. Nicholas Dean Carter C/o Hushe Treks & Tours P.O. Box 471, G-9, I,abad. Mr. Stuart Christopher Peacock C/O Hushe Treks & Tours P.O. Box 471 Islamabad. Ms. Pamela Claire Marvin C/o Himalaya Treks & Tours, 112, Rahim Plaza, Murree Road, Rawalpindi Mr. Bruce Normand, C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan P.O. Box No. 1780 Islamabad Mr. David Hamilton C/o Himalaya Treks & Tours, 112, Rahim Plaza, Murree Road, Rawalpindi. 07 25.07.2005 to 18.8.2005 18.6.2005 to 11.7.2005 Un-success

05

Un-success

Jagged Globe Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005

12

28.7.2005 to 27.8.2005

Successful

Muztagh Tower (7284-M) Expedition 2005

07

30.6.2005 to 13.8.2005

Un-success

Jagged GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005

05

04.06.2005 to 23.7.2005

Un-success

CZECH Republic 9 K-2 (8611-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Leopold Sulovsky C/o North Pakistan Treks, Tours and Expeditions, P.o. Box No. 463, Islamabad. 09 23.05.2005 to 29.7.2005 Un-success

46

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 10 Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

Leaders Name and Address Mr. Pavel Matousek C/o Karakurum Treks & Tours N.A. (Pvt) Ltd, 21-B, G-9 Markaz, P.O. Box 2803, Islamabad.

Number of Members

Period Availed 5-7-2005 to 17-8-2005

Result Un-success

06

France 11 Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Remi Escoffier C/o Nazir Sabir Expeditions, H.No. 28/B, Nazimuddin Road, F-8/1, P.O.Box 1442, Islamabad. Mr. Jean Pierre Revoil C/o North Pakistan Treks, Tours and Expeditions P.O. Box No. 463, Islamabad. Mr. Pievve-Frongois Etchegoyhen C/o North Pakistan Treks, Tours and Expeditions, P.o. Box No. 463, Islamabad. Mr. Olivier Obert C/o Hunza Guides Pakistan Tours Trekking & Expeditions, P.O. Box 468, G-9 Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Carrel Francois C/o North Pakistan Treks, Tours and Expedition, P.O. Box No. 463, Islamabad. Mr. Arvis Philippe C/o Nippa Travels, Islamabad Mr. Yannick Graziani C.o North Pakistan Treks, Tours & Expedition, P.O. Box No. 463, Islamabad. 07 16.06.2005 to 2.8.2005 Un-success

12

GB-V (7321-M) Expedition 2005

11

25.7.2005 to 27.8.2005

Un-success

13

Magic Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005

25.7.2005 to 19.8.2005 9 04 11.7.2005 to 20.8.2005

Un-success

14

Mohmil Sar (7343-M) Expedition 2005

Un-success

15

Diran Peak (7254-M) Expedition 2005

03

5.9.2005 to 25.9.2005

Un-success

16

Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005 Ultar-II (7388-M) Expedition 2005

06

21.6.2005 to 5.8.2005 8.10.2005 to 8.11.2005

Successful

17

02

Un-success

Georgia 18 Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005 Germany Mr. Gia Tortladze C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box 1780, Islamabad. 06 25.5.2005 to 26.7.2005 Successful

47

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 19 GB-II(8035-M) Expedition 2005 Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005 GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005. Hungary 22 K-2 MOL (8611-M) Expedition 2005.

Leaders Name and Address Mr. Stephen Keck C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box 1780, Islamabad. Mr. Kern Bernard Hermann, C/o Hunza Guides Pakistan P.o. Box 468, Islamabad. Mr. Thomas Laemmle C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box 1780, Islamabad.

Number of Members

Period Availed 27.5.2005 to 13.6.2005 29.7.2005 to 27.8.2005

Result Successful

13

20

Successful

7 06 13.7.2005 Successful

21

Mr. Mecs Laszlo C/o Karakurm Magic Mountains, P.O. Box 1017, GPO, Islamabad.

07

29.6.2005 to 24.8.2005

Un-success

Ireland 23 K-2 (8611-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Terence Banjo Bannon C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box No. 1780, Islamabad 08 7.6.2005 to 15.8.2005 Un-success

Italy 24 Broad Peak (8047-M) Exped. 2005 Mr. Roberto Piantoni C/o hushe Treks & Tours, P.O.Box 471, G-9, Islamabad. Mr. Peruffo Alberto C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.o. Box 1780, Islamabad. Mr. Gian Battista Bissi C/o Hushe Treks and Tours, P.O. Box No. 471 (G-9 Markaz), Islamabad Mr. Ennio Antonello, C/o Hushe Treks and Tours, P.O. Box No. 471 (G-9 Markaz), Islamabad 09 25.6.2005 to 04.08.2005 Successful

25

Rakaposhi (7788-M) Expedition 2005

07

19.07.2005 to 27.8.2005

Un-success

26

GB-II (80035-M) Expedition 2005

09

15.7.2005 to 1.9.2005

Un-success

27

GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005

12

16.6.2005 to 30.7.2005

Successful

Japan

48

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 28 GB-II (8035-M) Exped. 2005

Leaders Name and Address Mr. Hosoda Ichiro C/o Nippa Travel, H.No. 22, Bazar Road, G-6/4, Islamabad. Mr. Kemmochi Noriyuki, C/o Nippa Travel H.No.22 Bazar Road, G-6/4, Islamabad Mr. Koichi Ezaki, C/o Nippa Travel H.No.22 Bazar Road, G-6/4, Islamabad Mr. Kondo Kazuyoshi C/o Nazir Sabir Expeditions, House No. 28/B, Nazimuddin Road, F-8/1, Islamabad. Mr. Takeshi Ono, C/o Nazir Sabir Expeditions, H.No. 28/B, Nazimuddin Road, F8/1, P.O. Box No. 4142, Islamabad.

Number of Members

Period Availed 16.5.2005 to 19.8.2005

Result Un-success

01

29

Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

07

4.6.2005 to 26.7.2005

Successful

30

Summa Peak (7263-M) Expedition 2005 GB-I (8068-M) Expedition 2005

08

23.8.2005

Un-success

31

09

11.6.2005 to 19.8.2005

Successful

32

K-2 (8611-M) Expedition 2005

02

28.5.2005 to 18.8.2005

Un-success

Kazkistan 33 K-2 (8611-M) Expedition 2005 Netherlands 34 Spantik (7027-M), Expedition 2005 Mr. Kool, Arjen C/o Mountain Travels Pakistan 507 Poonch House Complex, Adam Jee Road, Rawalpindi 04 13.6.2005 to 27.5.2005 Un-success Mr. Maxut Zhumayev C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box 1780, Islamabad. 05 23.7.2005 to 7.9.2005 Un-success

Norway 35 K-2 (8611-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Simen Modre C/o Mountain Travels Pakistan 507 Poonch House Complex, Adamjee Road, Rawalpindi Mr. Glenn Seljasen C/o Jasmin Tours, GPO Box No. 859, Rawalpindi. '06 15.5.2005 Un-success

36

Noshaq Peak (7492-M) Exped.,2005

03

18.06.2005 to 26.7.2005

Un-success

Republic of Korea

49

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 37 GB-1 (8068-M) Expedition 2005

Leaders Name and Address Mr. Nam Sang IK, 134-2 Gyo-Dong, Pattal-Gu, Suwon City, Gyeonggi Province, Korea. Mr. Lee Jeong Hyun C/o Himalaya Treks & Tours, 112, Rahim Plaza, Murree Road, Rawalpindi Mr. Lee Sung-Won C/o Himalaya Treks & Tours, 112, Rahim Plaza, Murre Road, Rawalpindi. Mr. Nam Sang IK, C/o Trango Adventures, 606 Poonch House Complex, P.O.Box 623, Rawalpindi.

Number of Members

Period Availed 16.6.2005 to 18.8.2005

Result Successful

14

38

G-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005

06

4.6.2005 to 4.8.2005 13.4.2005 to 22.7.2005

Un-success

39

Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

12

Successful

40

GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005

07

16.6.2005 to 18.8.2005

Success

Russia 41 GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005 Slovenia 42 Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Humar Tomaz C/o Nazir Sabir Expeditions H.No. # 28/B, Nazimuddin Road, F-8/1, P.O. Box 1442, Islamabad. 04.07.2005 to 13.8.2005 6 Un-success Mr. Skripko Viacheslav C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.o. Box 1780, Islamabad. 14 18.6.2005 to 6.8.2005 Successful

Spain 43 Baintha Brakk (7285-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Jose Carlos Tamayo Gegundez C/o Hushe Treks and Tours, P.O. Box No. 471 (G-9 Markaz), Islamabad Mr. Edurne Pasaban C/o Hushe Treks and Tours, P.O. Box No. 471 (G-9 Markaz), Islamabad Mr. Manuel Gonzalez Diaz C/o Hushe Treks and Tours, P.O. Box No. 471 (G-9 Markaz), Islamabad Mr. Juan Cardona Tarres C/o Hushe Treks and Tours, P.O. Box No. 471 (G-9 Markaz), Islamabad 03 14.6.2005 to 30.7.2005 Un-success

44

Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

06

11.6.2005 to 28.7.2005

Successful

45

GB-1 (8068-M) Expedition 2005

07

20.6.2005 to 20.8.2005

Un-success

46

GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005

05

15.6.2005 to 9.8.2005

Un-success

50

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 47 Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

Leaders Name and Address Mr. Jarge Egocheaga C/o Hunza Guides Pakistan Tours Trekking & Expeditions, P.O. Box 468, G-9 Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Jose Carlos Pauner Gotor C/o Hushe Trek & Tours, P.O. Box No. 471, G-9, Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Juan Vallejo Iianos C/o Hushe Treks & Tours, P.O. 471, G-9, Islamabad.

Number of Members

Period Availed 13.6.2005 to 23.7.2005

Result Successful

07

48

Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

15

02.06.2005 to 28.7.2005

Successful

49

Orgre Brakk (7285-M) Expedition 2005

4.7.2005 to 9.8.2005

Un-success

Sweden 50 GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Christian Danielsson C/o Karakorum Treks and Tourism (Pvt) Ltd. P.O. Box 2803, Islamabad 05 23.6.2005 to 6.8.2005 Un-success

Switzerland 51 Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Andre Georges C/o Hunza Guide Pakistan P.O. Box 468, G-9 Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Jean Michel Zweiacker C/o Vista Tourism Management Services Flat B, Block 20, G-8 Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Alexander Gisler C/O Hushe Treks & Tours P.O. Box No.471 Islamabad. Mr. Jean Troillet, C/o Nazir Sabir Expeditions, House No. 28/B, Nazimuddin Road, F-8/1, Islamabad. 03 27.7.2005 to 5.7.2005 Successful

52

Saraghrar (7208-M) Expedition 2005

09

15.6.2005 to 11.8.2005

Successful

53

Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2005. Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

10

29.8.2005 to 24.9.2005 11.5.2005 to 25.6.2005

Successful

54

03

Un-success

Turkey 55 GB-II (8035-M) Expedition. 2005 Mr. Serhan Pocan C/o Nazir Sabir Expeditions, H.No. 28/B, Nazmiuddin Road, F-8/1, Islamabad. 06 22.6.2005 to 8.8.2005 Successful

United Arab Emirates

51

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 56 Emirates Spantick (7027M) Expedition 2005

Leaders Name and Address Mr. Peter R. Forbes C/o Concordia Exped., Pakistan, P.O.Box 1800 GPO, Rawalpindi

Number of Members

Period Availed 20.5.2005 to 17.6.05

Result Un-success

U.S.A. 57 K-2 (8611-M), Expedition 2005 GB-I (8068-M) Expedition 2005 Latok-1(7151-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Fabrizio Zangrilli C/o Jasmine Tours, GPO Box No. 859, Rawalpindi Mr. Higinio Gonzalez C/o Jasmin Tours, GPO Box No. 859, Rawalpindi. Mr. Damian Benegas C/o Hunza Guides Pakistan P.o. Box 468, G-9, Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Steven House C/o Blue Sky Treks & Tours, Link Road, Girls High School, Kushu Bagh, P.O.Box 642, Skardu. 06 2.06.2005 to 24.8.2005 22.06.2005 to 13.8.2005 13.6.2005 to 2.8.2005 Un-success

58

03

Un-success

59

03

Un-success

60

Nanga Parbat (8125-M) Expedition 2005

05

29.07.2005 to 15.9.2005

Successful

Combined Expeditions 61 China Tibet Pakistan Mount G-I (8068-M) Expedition 2005 CZECH/POLISH/USA International Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2005 Italy/USA Batura-II (7762-M) Expedition 2005 Lithuania Estonia the First Baltic states Karakorum GB-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005 New Zealand/USA Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2005 Mr. Sam Drug, C/o Alpine Club of Pakistan 509, Kashmir Road, R.A. Bazar, Rawalpindi. Mr. Tomas Kolomaznik C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.o. Box 1780, Islamabad. Mr. Simone Moro C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan, P.O. Box 1780, Islamabad. Mr. Saulius Vilius C/o Karakurm Treks & tours NA Ltd., 21-B, G-9, Islamabad. 5 Mr. Martin Walter Schmidt C/o Adventure Tour Pakistan, P.O. Box No. 1780, Islamabad. 01.06.2005 to 01.08.2005 8 Successful 13 19.5.2005 to 3.6.2005 Un-success

62

16

22.6.2005 to 9.8.2005

Un-success

63

02

16.6.2005 to 16.7.2005 6.6.2005 to 28.7.2005

Un-success

64

Un-success

65

52

S.# Name of Expedition/ Name of Peak 66 Polish Bulgaria K-2(8611-M) Expedition 2005 USA and Canada G-II (8035-M) Expedition 2005

Leaders Name and Address Mrs. Anna Czerwinska C/o Hunza Guides Pakistan, P.O. Box No.468, G-9, Markaz, Islamabad. Mr. Charles Duncan Fowler C/o Adventure Tours Pakistan P.O. Box No. 1780 Islamabad

Number of Members

Period Availed 9.6.2005 to 26.8.2005

Result Un-success

07

67

08

9.6.2005 to 1.8.2005

Successful

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Table No.3 : Age & Gender Composition of Mountaineers 1996 through 2005
Age & Gender 15 - 30 Male Female Male as % of Overall 31 40 Male Female 162 156 6 205 192 13 95 87 8 138 124 14 122 109 13 198 173 25 78 72 6 171 146 25 254 236 18 215 190 25 167 154 13 92.2 156 148 8 94.87 92 82 10 89.13 139 123 16 88.5 122 107 15 87.7 141 130 11 92.2 22 21 1 95.5 128 117 11 91.4 124 114 10 91.9 81 69 12 85.2 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

53

Male as % of Overall 41 50 Male Female Male as % of Overall 51 & Above Male Female Male as % of Overall Total Male Female

96.30

93.66

19.58

89.86

89.3

87.4

92.3

85.4

92.9

88.4

73 67 6 91.78

101 97 4 96.04

73 67 6 91.78

106 102 4 96.22

94 90 4 95.7

104 94 10 90.4

72 72 -100

113 106 7 93.8

154 140 14 90.9

105 98 7 93.3

20 20 -100

38 36 2 94.74

53 51 2 96.23

78 76 2 97.43

69 67 2 97.1

42 41 1 97.6

38 37 1 97.4

54 45 9 83.3

71 66 5 93.0

74 66 8 89.2

422 397 25 94.08

500 473 27 94.60

313 287 26 91.69

461 425 36 92.19

407 373 34 91.6

485 438 47 90.3

210 202 8 96.2

466 414 52 88.8

603 556 47 92.2

475 423 52 89.1

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Table No.4 : Indices of Seasonal Variation of Mountaineering Expeditions 1999 through 2005 (Base year 1991 = 100) Peak month May Expedition Member June Expedition Member 174 177 205 163 200 192 84 82 74 69 237 262 195 209 100 120 73 83 100 100 55 67 9 14 118 147 82 79 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

54

July Expedition Member August Expedition Member Seasonality Ratio Expedition Member 1.6 1.6 2.3 2.3 2.2 2.3 3.3 3.3 2.8 3.0 2.6 2.5 3.3 3.5 --88 18 100 93 33 20 183 153 17 144 33 40 143 102 129 88 107 81 21 14 243 228 71 51 114 88

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Table No.5 : Main Peaks Attempted/conquered by Mountaineers 1996 through 2005


Name of Peaks/Year 1996 Attempted Conquered % of Success 1997 Attempted Conquered % of Success 1998 Attempted Conquered % of Success 1999 Attempted Conquered % of Success 2000 K-2 Nanga Parbat 28 01 3.6 76 29 38.2 38 12 31.6 37 7 18.9 Gasherbrum-I 32 11 34.4 57 50 87.7 31 12 38.7 12 4 33.3 Broad Peak 18 02 11.1 72 35 48.6 36 7 19.4 97 13 13.4 Gasherbrum-II 39 11 28.2 77 57 74.0 82 19 23.2 102 33 32.4 Other Peaks 156 62 39.7 83 44 53.0 95 21 22.1 182 45 24.7 (Nos) Total

39 24 16.5 16 11 68.8 31 --31 ---

312 111 35.6 381 226 59.3 313 71 22.7 461 102 22.1

55

Attempted Conquered % of Success 2001 Attempted Conquered % of Success 2002 Attempted Conquered % of Success 2003 Attempted Conquered % of Success 2004 Attempted Conquered % of Success 2005 Attempted Conquered % of Success

71 49 69.1 32 25 78.1 57 --44 --96 49 51.0 39 ---

27 9 33.3 33 21 63.6 8 --39 11 28.2 32 13 40.6 57 37 64.9

26 --48 31 64.6 17 4 23.5 74 22 29.7 37 14 37.8 48 14 29.2

47 27 57.4 50 38 76.0 61 --59 37 62.7 51 10 19.6 27 8 29.6

83 62 74.7 133 64 48.1 12 --162 69 42.6 116 28 24.1 71 15 21.1

153 55 36.0 189 65 34.4 55 26 47.3 88 25 28.4 143 59 41.3 105 21 20.0

407 202 49.6 485 244 50.3 210 30 14.3 466 164 35.2 475 173 36.4 347 95 27.4

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Table No.6 : Deaths during Mountaineering from 1986 through 2005 Average Death Per Year Deaths Expedition Mountaineer (Nos) % Change of death rates over the previous year

1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996

08 04 06 08 06 05 06 13 08 14 11

0.154 0.085 0.111 0.195 0.125 0.096 0.103 0.220 0.160 0.237 0.196 56

0.019 0.012 0.015 0.027 0.015 0.013 0.014 0.030 0.020 0.036 0.026

-(-) 50.0 50.0 33.3 (-) 25.0 (-) 16.7 20.0 116.7 (-) 38.5 75.0 (-) 21.4

1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

10 06 08 03 04 03 06 06 04

0.175 0.120 0.125 0.045 0.057 0.103 0.098 0.087 0.060

0.020 0.019 0.017 0.007 0.008 0.014 0.013 0.010 0.008

(-) 9.1 (-) 40.0 33.3 (-) 62.5 33.3 (-) 25 100 -(-) 33.3

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

57

Table No.7 : Item-wise Average Expenditure Per Mountaineer 1996 through 2005
(US $) % change in Items 199 6 International Fare. Luggage Freight. Local Transport Accommodation Food Shopping Sight Seeing Others Total Average Expenditure 226 301 193 216 73 377 286 4 270 176 139 169 53 221 2422 151 337 206 215 24 42 2167 307 288 216 384 70 62 3507 272 284 211 259 68 198 2897 203 298 291 256 123 294 2890 125 248 280 585 10 244 2819 198 253 324 296 95 291 2669 247 335 254 416 29 229 2708 477 262 341 320 136 836 3839 93.1 (-) 21.2 3.4 (-) 23.1 369.0 265.1 41.8 106 0 418 293 186 733 437 404 337 296 165 360 118.2 1101 1006 1447 1168 1021 990 916 1033 1107 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2005 over 2004 7.2

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

Table No.8 : Occupational Classification of the Mountaineers 1996 through 2005


(US $) Occupation Professionals Technicians Executives Teachers Businessmen Un-Classified Total: 1996 171 22 15 33 20 160 422 1997 144 21 18 60 23 234 500 1998 72 41 47 31 8 113 313 1999 162 71 55 40 16 117 461 2000 2001 142 61 49 37 12 106 407 132 11 25 41 26 244 485 2002 34 12 7 22 14 121 210 2003 101 6 20 49 17 273 466 2004 54 4 10 15 4 516 603 2005 102 13 19 28 16 297 475
% change in 2005 over 2004

21.5 2.7 4.0 5.9 3.4 62.2 100

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

58

Table No. 9 : Seasonality trends 2001 through 2005 in Respect of Mountaineering Expeditions
(Nos) Peak Months/years MARCH Expeditions Members APRIL Expeditions Member MAY Expeditions Members JUNE Expeditions Members JULY Expeditions Members AUGUST Expeditions Members SEPTEMBER Expeditions Members OCTOBER Expeditions Members TOTAL Expeditions Members 70 485 29 210 61 466 69 603 67 475 --------1 2 --1 13 ----1 3 6 42 2 9 11 69 1 65 2 18 15 100 3 17 34 283 10 63 16 109 38 273 16 117 14 98 45 372 37 276 11 70 6 47 1 10 13 103 9 55 ----1 6 --1 12 --1 7 ------2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism

59

Table No.10 : Peak-wise number of Porters engaged 2004 Vs 2005 (Nos)


S.#. Height 2004 Name of Peak (Meters High Low Total High ) altitude altitude altitude 2005 Low altitude Total

K-2 Nanga Parbat Gasher Brum-I/ Hidden Peak Broad Peak Gasher Brum-II Gasher BrumIV Gasher BrumIII Raka Poshi Chogolisa K-6 Diran Latok-I Spantik Passu Peak Golden Peak Phuparash-I Kapura Kanjut Sar K-7 Sarghar Muztazh Baintha Brakk Sumna Peak Mohmil Sar Gasher BrumV Batura-II Noshaq Peak Khurrat Peak Ultar-II Total:

8611 8125 8068 8047 8035 7925 7952 7788 7654 7281 7266 7151 7027 7284 7027 6824 6544 7760 6935 7208 7284 7285 7263 7343 7321 7762 7492 6824 7388

12 -9 5 16 --1 ----6 ----------------49

1230 1242 233 233 507 516 655 660 1129 1145 70 70 70 70

6 9 10 8 4 -------17 ---------1 -3 --2 -60

726 711 498 345 742 --40 --8 50 230 ------220 45 70 100 50 66 30 45 53 10 4039

732 720 508 353 746 --40 --8 50 247 ------220 45 70 101 50 69 30 45 55 10 4099

42 43 130 130 95 95 25 25 42 42 586 592 15 15 40 40 25 25 80 80 40 40 45 45 --------------------5059 5108

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

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Table No. 11 : Nationality and Occupations of Mountaineers 2004 through 2005


(Nos) Nationality/ Professionals Occupation 2004 American Argentine Australian Austrian Belgium Bosnian. British Bulgarian Canadian Chinese Colombian. Croatian. Czechoslova k. Danish Dutch. Ecuadorian Estonian French Georgian German. Hungarian. Iranian Irish Italian. 12 -2 7 --2 ------3 2 ----3 --1 1
Technicians Executives Teachers Businessmen Unclassified Total

2005 2004 2005 2004 2005 2004 2005 2004 5 -2 1 --19 -1 --1 2 ---2 16 -8 -1 -6 ---1 ----------2 ---------------------4 ------1 -1 -3 ---4 ----------2 ---------1 -1 1 --1 -----2 -2 --2 --1 --2 ---1 1 -2 --------1 ---2 ---1 1 -2 ---3 -----1 --1 -4 ----1 1 -------------------1 -----

2005 1 -----------2 ---------1 1

2004 26 -11 44 -1 12 -2 11 3 --1 5 --20 2 40 -63 -61

2005 20 13 3 9 --15 3 1 13 1 -11 1 2 -1 19 2 12 4 --29

2004 38 -13 57 1 1 16 -2 11 3 --4 11 --20 2 46 -63 1 63

2005 28 13 8 11 --38 3 2 13 1 1 22 1 4 1 3 41 2 21 5 2 2 42

61

Nationality/ Professionals Occupation 2004 Japanese Kazak. Kyrgyz. Latevian Lithuanian Malaysian Mexican. Nepalese. New Zealander Norwegian. Polish Portuguese Rumanian Russian. Singaporean Slovakian Slovenian South African South Korean Spanish Swedish Swiss Turkish Total: 3 ------2 -----1 --9 2 -4 ---54

Technicians

Executives

Teachers

Businessmen

Unclassified

Total

2005 2004 2005 2004 2005 2004 2005 2004 7 ---1 -2 -1 4 2 ----1 2 -1 8 4 5 -102 -------------------1 ---4 -------------------3 -1 -13 -------------2 -----2 ---10 ---------1 --------3 2 ---19 ----------------4 --4 ---15 1 ------------3 ----1 8 -1 -28 ----------1 ------1 -1 ---4

2005 ------3 --1 1 -------3 1 -2 -16

2004 18 -2 --1 1 12 3 2 10 1 2 3 6 -11 4 21 83 1 33 -516

2005 14 7 -1 1 -2 10 -6 4 -1 2 -1 3 -34 28 2 16 6 297

2004 21 -2 --1 1 14 3 2 11 1 2 6 6 -24 7 21 95 1 33 -603

2005 22 7 -1 2 -7 10 1 12 7 -1 5 -2 5 -42 50 6 25 6 475

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism

62

Table No. 12 : Nationality-wise Peak Attempted/Conquered by Expeditions during 2005


(Nos) Peaks/ Nationality K-2 (8611 M)
Attemtted

Con- Attemp Conquered -ted

Nanga Parbat Gasherbrum-I Broad Peak Gasherbrum Others -II (8125 M) (8068 M) (8074 M) (Less than 8000 (8035 M) M)
Attemp- Con- Attem Con- Attem- Con- Attempted quere d pted quere pted d quere d ted Conquered quered

Total

Attempted

Conquered

American Argentina Austrian British Chinese Czeck Dutch French Georgian German Hungarian Irish Italian Japanese Kazak Lithuanian New Zealander Norwegian Polish Russian Slovenian South Korean Spanish Swedish Swiss Turkish U.A.E.

1 ----1 ----1 1 -1 1 --1 1 ---------

----------------------------

1 ----1 -1 1 ----1 ------1 1 3 -2 ---

1 ------1 1 ----1 -------1 3 -1 ---

1 1 --1 --------1 -------1 1 -----

-------------1 -------1 -----2

-1 ---1 -1 ----1 ---1 ----------5

------------1 ---1 ----------2

1 --1 -----2 --2 1 -1 ---1 -2 1 1 -1 -14

1 --------2 --1 ------1 -----1 -6

1 -1 4 --1 5 -1 --2 1 ---1 ----2 -2 -1 22

---1 -----1 --------------2 --4

5 2 1 5 1 3 1 7 1 3 1 1 5 5 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 4 7 1 4 1 1 67

2 --1 ---1 1 3 --2 2 --1 --1 -2 3 -3 1 -23

Total: 8 -12 9 6 Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

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Table No. 13 : Nationality-wise Peak Attempted/Conquered by Mountaineers during 2005


(Nos) Peaks/ Nationality K-2 (8611 M) Nanga Parbat (8125 M) Gasherbrum Broad Peak Gasherbrum Others -I (8074 M) -II (Less than 8000 (8068 M) (8035 M) M) Total

Attem- Con- Attem Con- Attem Con- Attem Con- Attem Con- Attempt Con- Attempt Conquered pted quere quere quere quered -pted quered ed quered ed d pted d pted d pted

American 5 -2 2 2 Argentina ----5 Australian 2 ----Austrian -----British -----Bulgarian 1 ----Canadian -----Chinese ----7 Colombia --1 1 -Crotian --1 --Czeck 5 -7 1 -Dutch -----Estonian -----French --6 4 -German -----Hungarian 1 ----Iranian -----Irish 2 ----Italian -----Japanese 2 -7 6 1 Kazak 5 ----Lithuanian -----Mexican -----Nepalese ----5 Norwegian 2 ----Polish 1 ----Slovenian --5 --South --2 2 5 Korean Spanish --22 16 7 Swedish -----Swiss --6 2 -Turkish -----Total: 26 -59 34 32 Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

-------------------1 ---5 ---3 ----9

4 ---------2 --5 ----10 -2 -2 --1 ------26

------------------6 -2 -----------8

-5 1 1 3 -------3 -4 -2 -21 1 -2 -2 2 --8 5 5 -6 71

--1 1 ----------4 ---2 ----2 1 --3 -1 -6 21

9 1 1 7 21 -1 ----4 -19 3 ---4 8 ---1 3 ---6 -8 -96

---1 6 -1 -------3 ---------------8 -19

22 11 4 8 24 1 1 7 1 1 14 4 3 30 7 1 2 2 35 19 7 2 2 8 7 2 5 15 40 5 14 6 310

2 -1 2 6 -1 -1 -1 --4 7 ---8 7 2 --7 1 --8 16 1 10 6 91

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Table No. 14 : Major Peaks of Pakistan


S. No Peaks
Chogori/K-2 Nanga Parbat Gasherbrum No.1/ Hidden Peak Falchan Kangri /Broad Peak Gasherbrum No. II Broad Peak Middle/Central Gasherbrum No.III Gasherbrum No. IV Distaghil Sar Main Kunyang Chhish/Main Masherbrum NE/(K-1) Masherbrum Rakaposhi Batura No.1 Batura II Distaghil Sar No.II Kanjut Sar No. I Masherbrum W Saltoro Kangri No.1 Batura III Trivor/Peak No. 8 Tirich Mir (Main) Saltoro Kangri II Chhaltoro Gang R 1 N Distaghil Sar (E) Tirich Mir (East) Saser Kangri 1 Chogolisa No. 1 SW/E Chogolisa No. II/NE Yukshin Garden Sar Kunyang Chhich (S) Shispare Sar Batura IV Broad Peak (N) Skyang Kangri No. 1 Batura V Yakshin Gardaan No.1 Mamostong Kangri Saser Kangri E Tirich Mir (West II) Skyang Kangri No. II Kunyang Chhish (W) Saser Kangri II W Saser Kangri III Pumari Chhish (W) Tirich Mir (West I)

Height (M)
8,611 8,125 8,068 8,047 8,035 8,016 7,952 7,925 7,885 7,852 7,821 7,806 7,788 7,785 7,762 7,760 7,760 7,750 7,742 7,729 7,720 7,708 7,706 7,705 7,700 7,692 7,672 7,665 7,654 7,641 7,620 7,611 7,594 7,550 7,544 7,531 7,530 7,516 7,513 7,500 7,500 7,500 7,500 7,495 7,492 7,487

Range
Karakoram Himalayas Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush

Group
Boltoro Diamer Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Hispar Hispar Bagrot Bagrot Bagrot Batura Mustagh Batura Mustagh Hispar Hispar Boltoro Soltoro Batura Mustagh Hispar Hindukush Soltoro Soltoro Hispar Hindukush Siachen(disputed) Boltoro Boltoro Hispar Hispar Batura Mustagh Batura Mustagh Boltoro Boltoro Batura Mustagh Hispar Soltoro Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Boltoro Hispar Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Hispar Hindukush

District
Skardu Diamer Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Gaunche Gilgit Gilgit Chitral Gaunche Gaunche Gilgit Chitral Gaunche Skardu Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gaunche Gaunche Chitral Skardu Gilgit Gaunche Gaunche Gilgit Chitral

65

1.

2. Pasu Massive M K-12 Teram Kangri 1 Muchu Chhish Malubiting (W) Pumari Chhish (N) Yazghil Dome (S) Sia Kangri No. 1/N Haramosh No.1 Teram Kangri II Istore-o-Nal (Main) Tirich Mir (West III) Kunyang Chhish (E) Pumari Chhish (S) Yazghil Dome (N) Ultar Sar No. 1 Rimo (S) No.1 Peak 51 Teram Kangri III Sherpi Kangri I Main Istro-Nal (North I) Rimo (S) No.II P-50 Istro-Nal (North II) Sherpi Kangri No. II Istro-Nal(North III) Skil Brum Skyang Kangri M Karun Kuh Kunyang Chhish W Pumari Chhish S Saragharar (Main) Skyang Kangri W Momhil Sar/Peak-7 Saragharar (Central) Yutmaru Sar (S) Bojohagur Duanasir Sia Kangri No. II/E Yazghil Domes S Gasherbrum No.V Kunyang Chhish (SE) Malanghutti Baltoro Kangri No.1 Ultar Sar II Saragharar (S) Istro-Nal (South) Istro-Nal (West I) Saragharar (NW) Baltoro Kangri No.III Urdok No.1 Malubiting (NW)

3. 7,478 7,469 7,463 7,453 7,453 7,440 7,440 7,422 7,409 7,406 7,403 7,400 7,400 7,400 7,400 7,388 7,385 7,382 7,380 7,373 7,373 7,372 7,370 7,365 7,360 7,357 7,350 7,350 7,350 7,349 7,345 7,343 7,330 7,330 7,329 7,325 7,324 7,321 7,320 7,320 7,312 7,310 7,307 7,303 7,300 7,300 7,300 7,300 7,300

4. Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Hindukush Hindukush Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram

5. Batura Mustagh Soltoro Siachen(disputed) Batura Muztagh Haramosh Hispar Hispar Boltoro Haramosh Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Hindukush Hispar Hispar Hispar Batura Mustagh Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Soltoro Hindukush Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Soltoro Hindukush Boltoro Boltoro Hispar Hispar Hispar Hindukush Boltoro Hispar Hindukush Hispar Batura Mustagh Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Hispar Hispar Boltoro Batura Mustagh Hindukush Hindukush Hindukush Hindukush Boltoro Boltoro Haramosh

6. Gilgit Gaunche Gaunche Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Gilgit Gaunche Chitral Chitral Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gaunche Gaunche Gaunche Chitral Gaunche Chitral Gaunche Chitral Skardu Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Chitral Skardu Gilgit Chitral Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Skardu Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Gilgit Chitral Chitral Chitral Chitral Skardu Skardu Gilgit

66

1.

2. Yazghil Domes N Sherpi Kangri No.III Teram Kangri IV Malubiting Central Rakaposhi (E) Savoia Kangri Baintha Brakk/Ogre Passu/Peak No. 55 Pasu Massive K-6 Istro-Nal (West II) Baltoro Kangri No.III Istro-Nal (Northwest) Golden Throne SE Golden Throne NW Diran/Minapin Mustagh Tower(E) Sia Kangri No. IV/ Central Golden Throne NE Mustagh Tower(W) Golden Throne SE Baltoro Kangri No.V Baltoro Kangri No.IV Saraghrar (SW-I) Apsarasas-1 Apsarasas II Apsarasas III E Rimo No. II P-49 Apsarasas IV Saraghrar (SE-I) Mt. Rose/Singhi Kan Istro-Nal (X) Saraghrar (SW-II) Urdok Kangri I Malubiting LC Bularang Sar Lugpahur Sar MD Lupghar Sar (E) Apsarasas V Apsarasas III E Apsarasas III W Mustagh Tower (NW) Rimo No. III Kampir Dior Karun Koh Hachindar Chish Yermanenbu Kangri Un-Named/Masherbrum Un-Named Depak Latok No. 1

3. 7,300 7,300 7,300 7,291 7,290 7,286 7,285 7,284 7,284 7,282 7,280 7,280 7,276 7,275 7,274 7,273 7,273 7,273 7,270 7,270 7,265 7,260 7,254 7,250 7,245 7,239 7,236 7,233 7,227 7,208 7,202 7,200 7,200 7,200 7,200 7,200 7,200 7,200 7,187 7,184 7,181 7,180 7,169 7,168 7,164 7,163 7,163 7,163 7,150 7,150 7,145

4. Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram

5. Hispar Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Haramosh Bagrot Boltoro Panmah Batura Mustagh Batura Muztagh Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Boltoro Hindukush Boltoro Boltoro Bagrot Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Boltoro Hindukush Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Hindukush Boltoro Haramosh Hispar Hispar Hispar Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed) Boltoro Siachen(disputed) Batura Muztagh Khunjerab Batura Mustagh Boltoro Siachen(disputed) Boltoro Siachen(disputed) Panmah

6. Gilgit Gaunche Gaunche Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gaunche Chitral Skardu Chitral Skardu Skardu Gilgit Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Skardu Chitral Gaunche Gaunche Gaunche Gaunche Gaunche Chitral Gaunche Chitral Chitral Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gaunche Gaunche Gaunche Skardu Gaunche Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Gaunche Skardu Gaunche Skardu

67

1.

2.

3. 7,143 7,133 7,125 7,117 7,116 7,108 7,108 7,100 7,100 7,100 7,100 7,100 7,100 7,090 7,082 7,081 7,080 7,071 7,061 7,058 7,050 7,041 7,040 7,027 7,020 7,014 7,010 7,010 7,004 7,000 7,000 7,000 7,000 7,000 7,000

4. Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Hindukush Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram Karakoram

5. Batura Mustagh Boltoro Hindukush Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Hindukush Hispar Hindukush Hindukush Batura Mustagh Hispar Hispar Siachen(disputed) Batura Muztagh Boltoro Boltoro Hindukush Boltoro Hindukush Boltoro Hindukush Siachen(disputed) Hindukush Haramosh Hindukush Boltoro Bagrot Haramosh Boltoro Batura Muztagh Hispar Siachen(disputed) Boltoro Siachen(disputed) Siachen(disputed)

6. Gilgit Skardu Chitral Gaunche Chitral Chitral Gilgit Chitral Chitral Gilgit Gilgit Gilgit Gaunche Gilgit Skardu Skardu Chitral Skardu Chitral Skardu Chitral Gaunche Chitral Skardu Chitral Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Skardu Gilgit Gilgit Gaunche Skardu Gaunche Gaunche

Kampir Dior Gasherbrum V Shakawar Apsarasas (S) Koh-I-Nadir Shah Udren Zom (N) Hunyang Chhish (N)_ Langar (Main) Saraghrar (SS) Ghenta Lupghar II/Central Yakshin Gardaan No.1 Sherpi Kangri Ghenta Urdok No. II Mandu Pk Udren Zom (Central) Chogolisa Kangri-I Langar (SE) Pyramid/Thyor Udren Zom (S) Link Sar Saraghrar (N) Spantik/Ghenish Chish Akber Chioh/Akher Chogolisa Kangri II Rakaposhi (E) Malubiting (E) Gasherbrum No.VI Sangemer Mar Lupghar Sar III (E) Apsarasas (E)/Un-Named Chogolisa (W)/Prupoo Ghent III Kaberi Peak Source: Alpine Club of Pakistan.

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Table No. 15 : Comparative Statement of Mountaineering Regulations in China, India, Nepal & Pakistan Applications: All applications must be made on approved forms or in a specified manner as outlined by the separate mountaineering associations. Applications need to be made sufficiently in advance: The Chinese authorities undertake to respond to applications within 60 days; The Indian Mountaineering Foundation requires 90 days before an expedition arrives in India. Nepals Tourism Act ordinarily requires applications be made at lease four months in advance. The Pakistan government requires applications to be filed between January 1 and December 31 of the year preceding the proposed expedition.

All expeditions are expected to provide reports, and in some cases attend briefing and de-briefing sessions. Some host countries impose restrictions on photography, filming and videography. Royalties: The table at following Appendix A provides a comparative view of the royalties, which must be paid in convertible currency, usually US$, charged by the host countries. China requires that for Mt. Everest/Qomolungma, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma/ Xarabangma and other mountains above 8000m a non-refundable registration fee be paid along with a nonrefundable deposit in advance and the full costs of an expedition be remitted in US$ to the Chinese Mountaineering Association one month before entering China. The registration fee and deposit are counted towards the costs but are forfeited in case an expedition is cancelled. India allows booking upto three years in advance along with a 25% advance of the prescribed royalty/handling charges payable by Indian tour operators to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. A graded schedule is specified for later bookings or for additional peaks, and full charges are payable on receipt of confirmation of booking. Nepal requires five percent royalty amount for the Mount Everest mountain and ten percent royalty for other mountains for the issuance of preliminary mountaineering expedition permit and shall have to pay to the rest of the royalty within one year of such permit. Pakistan requires that full royalty payment be made to the nearest diplomatic mission or tourism office at the time of application. Ordinarily, standard royalties are payable for expeditions upto 11 members in China, 12 in India, 7 in Nepal and 7 in Pakistan. Additional members, within limits, may be included at additional fees. India does not usually permit parties of less than three members.

69

Annexure A Peak Fees Charged by the Himalayan Countries: Comparative Statement Royalties:

China
For 11 Persons
Mt Everest (South Col) Mt Everest (Other Routes) Peaks above 8000M Cho Oyu Xixabangma K-2, 8611 M 8001-8500M 8000M Peaks Eastern Karakoram Num & Kun 7501M to 7999M Peaks 7501-8000M 7001M to 7500M Peaks 6501-7000M 6000M to 6500M Peaks Below 6000M peaks Specific Remarks -@US$5,000 @US$3000 --@US$1760 --@US$ 1080 -@US$1080 @US$ 700 @US$ 700 @per Climber US$ 30 a) @ The registration fee for each extra member shall be 10% additional. b) For a new route, fee will be twice the normal rate. c) If expedition team admits members from other countries (including high altitude porter third country) shall be charged 10% of the registration fee d) The environmental protection fee is US$ 25 per person. e) Cine-photo fee is US$1350 to 6760 f) Satellite telephone fee is US$2000. g) A special registration fee shall be charged for the first ascent of virgin or newly opened peak in China ---

India
For 12
---

Nepal
US$70,000 US$50,000 ----

Pakistan
For 7 persons

Persons For 7 Persons

@US$4000 +@US$8000 ----@US$4000 ------US$ 10,000 --@US$4000 -@US$3000 US$ 2000 @US$1000 @US$1000

US$ 6000 US$ 4500 ----US$ 2000 US$ 1250 US$ 750 ---

@US$3000 -@US$3000 +US$7000 --@US$3000 +US$6000 US$ 2000 +US$ 5500 @US$1500 +US$ 5000 @US$1500 +US$ 5000

a) If more than one peak a) Beyond 7 persons a) Beyond 7 persons, extra is climbed royalty for following fees are charges per person K-2 US$ 1000 second peak is at extra, per person, 8001-8500M-US$ 750 50% scale. upto 12 members 7501-8000=US$ 250 b) This fee is for 12 MT Everest (South 7001-7500M-US$ 150 members. Addl. US$ Col)-US$ 10,000 6000-7000M-US$ 100 300 per member for Other Routes th th b) All peaks under 6000M 13 to 16 . US$ 10,000 are free for access c) Environmental Levy 8000 M peaks-US$ unless near the US$ 400 upto 16 1500 frontiers. persons. 7501-800M-US$ c) US$ 200 plus US$ 1000 d) Fees for restricted 500 environmental deposit area US$ 4000. 7001-7500M-US$ which is forfeited is e) Plus charges by State 400 rubbish is left behind. Govt. of Sikkim. 6501-7000M-US$ 300 6500M & BelowUS$200 b) For trekking, the charges are US$ 300, c) Environmental fees Mt Everest US$4000,8000Mpeaks-US$3000 Below 800M-US$ 2000 (Refundable depending upon LOs report). d) Satellite telephone fee is US$ 5000.

Source: Note:

Alpine Club of Pakistan and Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism The data on Nepal, China and India is based on printed information available in the Ministry. For latest information the respective countries may be approached.

70

Security and Environment Deposits: Most host countries have in recent years begun to levy refundable security deposits that are returned to expeditions provided there is no cause to charge for environmental or other damage. China does not levy a deposit but charges @ US$ 25 per climber for environmental protection. India levies non refundable US $ 400 as environment protection fees for an expedition up to 16 people, except for trekking peaks. Nepal takes deposits ranging from US $ 4,000 for Mt. Everest /Sagramatha to US $ 2,000 for peaks below 8000 M. Pakistan asks for US $1,000 per expedition as a deposit which is refunded after the liaison officer clears the expedition, and levies a non-refundable US $ 200 per expedition for environmental protection. Liaison Officers: All host countries require foreign expeditions to take liaison officers from the host mountaineering organizations. They are expected to assist expeditions, meet regulatory requirements as well as provide assistance and co-ordination with the local authorities in times of need. Host countries require that the cost of liaison officers be borne by visiting expeditions. This includes providing them with equipment, transportation and food. Some details of regulations governing liaison officers are as follows: China currently charges US $ 270 to provide equipment to a liaison officer. In addition, expeditions must pay US $ 13 to US $ 18 per day as subsidy and US $ 10 to US $ 13.50 per day for food. India requires that a liaison officer be treated as a member of the expedition; equipment is provided by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation for which the expedition pays US $ 500. The IMF gives liaison officers an honorarium of Rs. 6,500 (IR) each. Nepal requires liaison officers be paid Rs. 200 to Rs. 250 (NR) per day in addition to being provided a full set of equipment. Pakistan obliges expeditions to bear the full costs of a liaison officer, including the provision of equipment. It gives the liaison officer the option of a daily allowance of US $ 20 outside the mountain areas in lieu of food and accommodation and US $10 per day for food while on the expedition.

Porters and Headmen: Strict regulations govern the use of local porters, headmen and employees on expeditions in all four host countries. High altitude porters are required to be equipped for their tasks and fed appropriately; in China, however, expeditions are charged a daily subsidy of US $ 12 to 15 and food allowance of US $10 to US $13.5 per day in addition to equipment charge of between US $ 200 and US $405. The separate mountaineering associations specify wages and equipment lists for different categories of porters.

Insurance: All host countries require that liaison officers, headmen and porters be insured. The comparative details are as follows:-

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China requires the payment of insurance premiums, which range from US $ 80 for assistant liaison officers to US $150 for a liaison officer and US $ 200 to US $300 for high altitude porters. India asks expeditions to insure porters for US $ 3,000 for guides/headmen, US $ 2,000 for high altitude porters and US $ 1,500 for base camp staff or low altitude porters, Indian Mountaineering Foundation arranges insurance for its liaison officers. Nepal requires liaison officers to be insured for Rs.200,000 (NR), headmen/guides for Rs.150,000 (NR), high altitude porters for Rs.100,000 (NR), base camp and local porters for Rs.50,000 (NR). Pakistan asks expeditions to insure liaison officers for Rs. 200,000 (PR), high altitude porters for Rs. 100,000 (PR) and other porters for Rs. 50,000 (PR).

Trekking Fee: No trekking fee is currently levied in India and China. Nepal levies US $ 5 per person per week for most areas, Controlled areas attract US $ 70 per person for seven days, and special areas, such as Mustang can be visited at a fee of US $700 for 10 days. Pakistan charges US $ 50 per person per trek. In all host countries, there are regulations relating to access, open and closed areas. Penalties: Host countries will penalize expeditions if they contravene regulations or the terms of their approvals. Chinas Sports Commissions at various levels are empowered to give warnings or impose fines ranging from 5,000 to 50,000 Yuan, and halt expeditions if they violate regulations or climb mountains without permission. India reserves the right to debar individuals for five to ten years if they are found climbing without permission or violating environmental protection rules. Fines of two to four times the royalty can also be imposed. Nepal may ban any mountaineering expedition or its members from entering the kingdom for a period of up to five years or climbing activity up to 10 years for violation of rules and regulations. Fines of up to twice the royalty amount may also be imposed. Pakistans Tourism Division is authorized to disqualify a party or its members from mountaineering for up to four years and take other legal action as is warranted for violation of rules and regulations

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PAKISTAN Application Form for Mountaineering Expeditions


1. 2. 3. 4. Country of expeditions origin. Name of expedition Name of leader. Nature of expedition (Tick applicable): (a) Sports (b) Sports-cum-Scientific (c) Exclusively scientific If Sports and sports-cum-scientific. Tick applicable: (a) Mountaineering (b) Mountaineering-cum-scientific. Note No. 1: Explanatory notes, if any, may be added in the form of annexures. If exclusively scientific, tick applicable: 1. Geological 2. Geographical 3. Zoological 4. Botanical 5. Medical 6. Any other (Specify) Particulars about arrival/departure: (a) Approximate date of entry into Pakistan (b) Name of points of entry (c) Approximate date of arrival at Rawalpindi/Islamabad. (d) Approximate date of return to Rawalpindi from mountains. Total number: (a) Members including leader. (b) Reserve. (c) Total: Note No.2 Attached particulars of each member, including leader and reserves. Transport/porters (required): (a) Jeeps () Number (b) Trailers (.) Number (c) Animals (... ) Number (d) Low altitude porters ( ..) Number (e) High altitude porters (..) Number Particulars of peak(s) to be climbed: List at least four peaks in order of preference. For identification attach: area map. Route map. (Please identify important places).

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Preference No. 1
(i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v) (vi) (vii) (viii) Name of peak Height. Latitude. Longitude. Distance from Pak border. Route to be adopted. (Identify important villages/places/face/Ridge through which the Peak is to be attempted). Location of base camp. Is the peak virgin? Yes No

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If no, enclose a resume of all the parties that have conquered it. Also identify the years and names of persons conquering it. Note No. 3 Applicants asking for allotment of peaks in Karakoram Range may identify as an alternative choice one peak from the Hindu Kush Range. Preference No. 2 to 4: List items (i) to (ix) above in respect of each peak. 11. Is it a foreign-cum-Pakistani expedition? Yes No. 12. If yes, indicate the following: (a) Total of Pakistani members including Deputy Leader. (b) Reserve. ( c)Total. Note No. 4, Attach particulars of each Pakistani member, including a Deputy leader and reserve on prescribed proforma. 13. Is it a Pakistan-cum-foreign expedition? Yes No. 14. If yes, indicate the following:(a) Total of foreign members including Deputy Leader. (b) Reserve. (c) Total: Note No.5 Attach particulars of foreign members, including a Deputy Leader and reserve in proforma. Note No. 6: Score out such columns as are not applicable. (Columns 11-14). 15. No. (a) Do you propose shooting of a film? Yes (b) If yes, whether it is commercial film or film of Commercial Academic academic interest. interest (c) Size of film . (d) Approximate length of film.. I hereby declare that the information given by me is true to the best of my knowledge. I further declare that I shall abide by the current terms and conditions, laid down by the Government of Pakistan for climbing peaks, which I have read carefully. (a) Signature of leader (b) Name in block letters (c) Date. Counter signature by. Embassy of Pakistan (Place)

(ix)

16.

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PARTICULARS OF LEADER AND MEMBERS OF EXPEDITION PARTY Name of member/leader Mr./Mrs./Miss Nationality. Residential address. Occupational address. Date of birth. Place of birth. Passport number. Date of issue of passport. Place of issue of passport. Most recent dates of visits to Pakistan with places (For one year only). Duties to be performed during climb. Source: Alpine Club of Pakistan and Extracted from the files ofMinistry of Tourism.

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Table No. 16 : Nationality-wise Trekkers Distribution 2001 through 2005


Nationality

2001
Par-ties Mem-bers Parties

2002
Members Parties

2003

2004
Members

(Nos) 2005
Par-ties Members

Mem-bers Parties

American Argentine Australian Austrian Belgian Brazilian British Bulgarian Canadian Chinese Cubic Czechoslovak Danish Dutch Estonian French Georgian German Greek Guatemala Hong Kong Hungarian Iranian Irish Italian Japanese Kazak Kenya Korean Kuwaiti Kyrgyz Latvia Lithuanian Malaysian Mexican Namibian Nepalese New Zealander

14 -6 13 5 -37 3 9 1 -4 2 4 1 22 -29 2 ---1 -16 28 1 -3 --1 --1 --2

46 -27 77 33 -246 19 24 1 -13 6 29 3 145 -132 5 ---4 -78 127 2 -13 --2 --5 --2

5 --2 1 -----------1 10 ---1 --3 9 --1 -------1 --

11 --2 2 -----------1 19 ---2 --9 21 --1 -------2 --

7 --5 2 -6 -1 --1 -2 -5 1 7 2 --1 --5 22 --9 --1 -------

13 --17 5 -25 -1 --4 -4 -13 1 23 7 --2 --27 89 --39 --2 -------

13 -5 8 2 1 19 1 3 1 -4 1 4 -11 1 27 ----1 1 59 26 --5 ---1 ----2

22 -14 39 6 4 102 6 9 2 -30 1 25 -55 1 137 ----3 5 885 109 1 -30 2 1 -4 1 6 1 1 6

17 -07 07 01 -27 02 06 -01 05 -05 -22 -25 01 -01 -01 -18 24 --14 -----03 -02 03

75 01 43 38 04 -164 03 17 01 05 37 -28 -123 -131 01 01 06 01 02 09 143 151 -01 105 -----09 01 04 21

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(Nos)

Nationality

2001
Par-ties Members

2002
Par-ties Members

2003
Par-ties Members

2004
Par-ties Members

2005
Par-ties Mem-bers

Norwegian 1 Polish -Portugal -Rumanian 1 Russian -Singaporean 6 Slovakian -Slovenian -South Africa -Spanish 24 Swedish -Swiss 8 Taiwan -Thai -Ukraine -Total: 245

2 --2 -26 ---207 -41 ---1318

---1 ----2 4 -2 ---43

---2 ----4 19 -4 ---99

-2 ------1 17 1 5 --3 106

-5 ------1 82 1 9 --7 377

3 2 --1 -4 5 2 31 1 10 ---255

4 4 --5 3 26 13 18 154 8 33 ---1776

01 05 --02 01 03 01 05 25 03 10 01 01 01 251

07 20 02 -20 06 26 05 20 156 05 36 04 03 08 1443

Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism.

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Table No.17 : Terms and Conditions for Grant of Permission to Trekking Parties for Undertaking Trekking Tours in Pakistan Procedure for Applying for Permission:
1. Trekking means the act of traveling on foot to a maximum height of six thousand meters (6000M) with the purpose of sight-seeing and recreation at various natural and cultural sites in places where means of modern transport are either not available or are purposely not used. 2. Issue of permits to trekking parties shall be regulated as follows: a) Treks situated in the Open Areas: Foreign are allowed to trek in the Open Zone without permit and guide etc. b) Specified treks in the Restricted Areas: i. Specified trekking routes in Restricted Areas (comprising of districts of Chitral, Gilgit and Skardu). c) Unspecified treks in Restricted Areas. i. Applications for treks other than specified shall be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism (Operation Section) on prescribed form in duplicate. ii. Permission or rejection for undertaking these trek would be communicated with 15 days of receipt of complete application in the Ministry of Tourism (Operation Section). iii. Parties so permitted shall be accompanied by a Registered trekking guide/Liaison Officer to be detailed by the Government of Pakistan. iv. The trekking permit is issued by Ministry of Tourism (Operation Section) will be valid for 30 days. II CANCELLATION: 3. Government reserves the right to cancel the permission issued in favour of any party/trekker at any time without assigning any reason. 4. In case, however, a party postpones/cancels its visit, it shall so inform the Ministry of Tourism, Tourism Wing, (Operation Section) by the quickest possible means. III BRIEFING/DE-BRIEFING: 5. The leader of party using treks in restricted areas shall, on arrival in Rawalpindi/Islamabad, inform the Officer concerned in Ministry of Tourism of their arrival. The said Officer would furnish him relevant information on matters like insurance, purchase of rations etc., arrangement about special weather forecast by Radio Pakistan and other miscellaneous matters. After completing these formalities, the leader shall take from the said Officer a date for formal briefing. For this purpose he shall give a minimum notice of 24 hours excluding Fridays, Saturday and holidays. This preparatory work may necessitate a stay of about 4-6 days in Rawalpindi/Islamabad.

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IV FUNCTIONS AND DUTIES OF LIAISON OFFICER/MOUNTAIN GUIDE: A party shall include in the expedition, as its member, at least one Liaison Officer/Mountain Guide to be detailed by the Government of Pakistan, travel cum trekking agency as the case may be. V- TREKKING FEE: Trekking fee would be charged from parties @ US $ 50/- per person per trek debitable in head of account No. 1391-Fees, Fines and Forfeitures for accounting of the receipt relating to Royalty/Tgrekking fee realised from Mountaineering and Trekking party.
Note: The above information has taken from the publication - Trekking Rules and Regulation. This information is subject to modifications, alterations and relaxations. For any further th information please contact Ministry of Tourism, 10 Floor Green Trust Tower, Jinnah Avenue, Blue Area, Islamabad, Tel: (051) 9204550.

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Table No. 18: Detail of Some Treks in Pakistan


S.#. Treks Recommended

1.

Treks in Baltistan: BALTORO GONDOKODRO HUSHE: Restricted Zone Concordia, K-2 B.C. Gasherbrum B.C. & return by the same route, or cross Gondokoro or Vigne Pass, K-7 B.C. Hushe, Skardu or vice Versa. BALTORO MASHERBRUM PASS HUSHE: Restricted Zone Skardu, Askole, Converdia, K-2 B.C., Gasherbrum B.C., Masherbrum Pass, K-7 B.C. Hushe, Skardu or Vice Versa. PANMAH GLACIER SIM PASS: Skardu, Panmah Glacier, Chiring Restricted Zone Glacier, Drenming Glacier, Nobande Sobande Glacier, Simgeng Glacier, Chaktoi Glacier, Sim Pass, Simgang Glacier, Snow Lake & down to Askole via Biafo Glacier or to Nagar via Hispar Glacier, or vice versa. HISPAR PASS: Skardu, Askole, Biafo Glacier, Snow Lake, Hispar Open Zone Pass, Hispar Glacier, Nagar, Gilgit or vice Versa. LUKPO PASS : Skardu, Askole, Biafo Glacier, Snow Lake, Simgang Restricted Zone Glacier, Lukpo Pass, Braldu Glacier, Shimshal Pass, Shimshal village pass, Gilgit or vice versa. SOKH PASS : Skardu, Askole, Biafo Glacier, Snow lake, Sokh La, Open Zone Sokh Glacier, Sosbun Glacier, Hikmul Pass, Hoh Lungma Glacier, Arandu, Skardu, or vice versa. HARAMOSH PASS : Skardu, Arandu, chogo lungma Glacier, Open Zone Haramosh La, Dache, Sassi, Gilgit or Skardu or vice versa. STAK PASS : Skardu, Stak, Stak Pass, Ganto Pass Arandu, Chogo Open Zone lungma Glacier, Haramosh Pass, Sassi, Skardu or Gilgit or vice versa. SOSBUN VALLEY : Skardu, Chakpong, Ho, Sosbun B.C. Sosbun Open Zone Brakk B.C., Hoh Lungma Glacier, Hikmul Pass, Doko, Skardu or vice versa.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10. SKORO PASS : Skardu, Askole, Skoro Pass, Shigar, Skardu or vice Open Zone versa. 11. THALLE PASS : Skardu, Shigar, Thalle Pass, Bukma, Doghani to Open Zone Hushe or Skardu or vice versa. 12. HUSHE VALLEY: Skardu, Hushe, Masherbrum B.C., Shaicho, Restricted Zone Gondokoro B.C., K-7 B.C., Hushe, Skardu, or vice versa.

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13. HUSHE ALING : Skardu, hushe, Aling Glacier & back to Hushe via Open Zone same route. 14. ACROSS DEOSAI : Skardu, Deosai Plateau, Chilim Astore, Gilgit or Open Zone vice versa.

TREKS IN DIAMIR
15. AROUND NANGA PARBAT : Gilgit Astore, Mazeno Pass, either to Open Zone Chilas via Diamer or Kachal Pass. Fairy Meadows, Raikot or Astore via Nameless Pass, Chilas or vice versa. 16. FAIRY MEADOWS: Chilas, Fairy Meadows, Nanga Parbat Base Open Zone Camp, Jillipur Pass Chilas. 17. ACROSS DEOSAI: Gilgit, Astore, Chillim, Deosai plateau, Skardu, or Open Zone vice versa.

TREKS IN GILGIT & HUNZA


18. RAKAPOSHI BASE CAMP: Gilgit Jaglot, Shaltar Pass, Milt, Minapin Open Zone Glacier, Miachar, Toshot, Nagar, Gilgit or vice versa. 19. BATURA GLACIER: Gilgit, Gulmit, Borit Lake, Patundas, Yashpirit, Open Zone Shelmin, Lupdor & Returm via left side of the Batura Glacier to Passu, Gilgit or vice versa. 20. GILGIT HASSANABAD: Gilgit Hassanabad, Muchuhar Glacier, Open Zone Shendar Glacier, back to the Batoqsha Glacier, Shispar Glacier, Hassanabad, Gigit or vice versa. 21. KARUN PASS: Gilgit, Passu, Dut, Karun Pass, Boiber, Morkhun, Open Zone Karakorm Highway & back to Gilgit or vice versa. 22. CHAPURSAN BATURA : Gilgit, Sost, Yashkuk by jeep & then by foot Restricted Zone to Kukijerab Glacier & across Lupghar Pass & down to Raminji or cross 5200 Meters Pass & down to Lupgar & down to the Batura Glacier to Passu or vice versa. 23. BARPU GLACIER: Gilgit, Hunza, Hopper, across Bualbar, Glacier up Open Zone the Barpu Glacier ascend to Rash Lake, Girgindal, Golden Peak Base Camp, return by left side of the Barpu Glacier to Hopper & to Gilgit or vice versa. 24. SHIMSAL VALLEY: Gilgit, Hunza, Sost, Chillinji pass, Ishkomen, Gilgit Restricted Zone or vice versa.

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25. SHIMSAL VALLEY: Gilgit, Passu, Shimshal, Yazghil, Glacier, yukshin Open Zone Gardan Glacier, Khurdopin Glacier, Virjerab Glacier & return to Gilgit by the same route. 26. SHIMSHAL CHAPCHINGAL PASS: Gilgit, Passu, Shimshal, Boesam Restricted Zone Pir Pass, Mundi Kushlag, Chapehingal Pass, Karakoram Highway, Gilgit or vice versa. 27. SHIMSHAL PASS: Gilgit, Passu, Shimshal, Shimshal Pass, Yazghil Open Zone Glacier, Virjerab Glacier, Shimshal Pass, Shuijerab, Shimshal Village, Passu & return to Gilgit. 28. KARUN PASS: Gilgit, Passu, Karun Pass, Beihar, Merkhun, Sust, Open Zone Gilgit or vice versa. 29. SHIMSHAL BRALDU GLACIER SNOW LAKE: Gilgit, Passu, Restricted Zone Shimshal Village, Shuijerab, Braldu Glacier, Lukpo-La, Snow Lake & to Nagar Via Hispar La & Shispar Glacier or to Askele & Skardu via Biafo Glacier or vice versa. 30. NALTAR PASS : Gilgit, Cither Nomal, Naltar Pass or Sher Qila, Naltar, Open Zone Naltar Pass, down to either Chaterkhand or to Pakhera, to lmit, down to Gilgit or vice versa. 31. DAINTER PASS : Gilgit, Nomal, Naltar, Dinter Pass, Bar, Kukuar Open Zone Glacier & Baltar Glacier, Chalt to Gilgit or Chaprot, Chaprot Pass, Naltar, Gilgit or Vice versa. 32. THUI PASS: Gilgit, Yasin, Nialthi, Thui Pass, Gazin, Mastuj, Chitral or Open Zone vice versa. 33. NAZBAR PASS : Gilgit, Yasin, Nazbar Pass, Zagar Pass, Shandur Open Zone Pass, Mustuj, Chitral or Vice Versa. 34. DADAR ALI PASS : Gilgit, Phander, Handrap, Dadarail Pass, Kalam, Open Zone Swat, or vice versa. Or same upto & centinue to Swat via, Bashkaro Pass & Kalam or vice versa. 35. ASUMSAR & ISHKOMAN PASSES: Gilgit, Chatorkhand, Asumbar Open Zone Pass, Sandi, Darkot, Ishkoman Pass, Ishkoman, Gilgit or vice versa. 36. ISHKOMAN & DARKUT PASSES: Gilgit, Ishkoman, Ishkoman Pass, Restricted Zone Darkot, Darkot Pass, Baroghil to Mastuj & Back to Gilgit or Chital. 37. NAZVAR PASS : Gilgit, Yasin, Nazbar Pass, Zagar Pass, Chamarkhan Open Zone Pass, Harchin Pass, Harchin & Chitral or Gilgit or vice versa.

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38. HARAMOSH PASS : Gilgit, Jaglot, Sassi, Dasan, Haramosh Pass, Open Zone Arandu, Skardu or vice versa. 39. HARAMOSH - RAKAN PASS BAGROT : Gilgit Sassi, Rakan Pass, Open Zone Farphu, Gilgit or vice versa.

TREKS IN CHITRAL VALLEY


40 GARAM CHASHMA AGRAM PASS: Chitral, Mizhinagram, Ovirdeh, Restricted Zone. Agram Pass, Gohar, Lutkuh, Chitral or vice versa.

41. MAEDAKLASHT PHAGRAM PASS: Chitral, Madaklasht, Gelon Open Zone Velley, Phagram Pass, Laspur, Chitral or vice versa. 42. KALASH CHAMBOI PASS: Chitral, Berir, Chambol Pass, Bomboret, Restricted Zone Kalashgzram, Rambur, Balangum, Bakmak, Chitral or vice versa. 43. KHOT PASS: Chitral, Turkhow, Khot Pass, Ochall, Ishkarwaz, Restricted Zone Karambar Pass, Ishkoman Valley, Gilgit or vice versa. 44. THUI PASS: Chitral, Gazin, Thui Pass, Assombar, Gilgit or vice versa. Open Zone 45. KACHIKANI PASS: Chitral, Mastuj, Kachikanj Pass, Kalam, Swat or Open Zone vice versa. 46. OVIR PASS: Chitral, Shahbronz Ovir Pass, Kiyar, Chitral or vice versa. Open Zone 47. KALASH RUMBUR: Chitral, Birmoglast, Utak Pass, Bashagalin, Restricted Zone Rumbur, Bomboret or vice versa. 48. DADRALI PASS: Chitral, Mastuj, Andrap Lake, Dadrali Pass, Kalam, Open Zone Swat or vice versa. 49. ZANI PASS: Chitral Zani Pass, Shagram, Atrak, Babu Camp, Ziwar Restricted Zone Gol, Burzun, Chitral or vice versa. 50. TURKHOW VALLEY: Chitral, Burzun, Ziwar, Shal, Uzhnu, Chikar Pass, Restricted Zone
Wakhikan Gumba, Kotgaz, Noghor Zom, Rua, Chitral or vice versa.

51. SHAH JUNALI CHILLUI PASS: Chitral, Rua, Shah Junali, Lasht, Restricted Zone Ishkarwarz, Karambar Pass, Chilinji Pass, Chapursan Valley, Gilgit & vice versa. 52. CHUMURKAN PASS: Chitral, Mastuj, Chumarkan, Nazbar Pass, Open Zone Yasin, Ishkoman, Gilgit or vice versa. 53. ZINDIGRAM PASS TREK: Chitral, Shah Junali, Paur, Gazin, Lasht, Restricted Zone Kishmanja, Ishkarwarz to Darkot Pass, or Karambar Pass, Zindikharam Pass, Ishkoman, Gilgit or vice versa.

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54. ARKARI TREK: Chitral, Shugur Blyasan, Babu Camp, Arkari, Garam Restricted Zone Chashma, Shahgram, Chitral or vice versa. 55. DARKOT PASS: Chitral, Mastuj, Lasht, Darkut Pass, Ishkoman Gilgit Restricted Zone or vice versa. 56. CHILINJI TREK: Chitral, Mastuj, Ishkarwarz, Karambar Pass, Chilinji Restricted Zone Pass, Chapursan Valley, Gilgit or vice versa. 57. TIRICH VALLEY: Chitral Shahgram, Shugur Biyasan, Lower Tirich Restricted Zone Glacier, Upper Tirich GLACIER and back by the same route. Source: Extracted from the files of Ministry of Tourism

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Table No. 19 : Some Important Organizations and their Activities: 1) Alpine Club of Pakistan

Activities:
Cultivate mountaineering and outdoor culture among the nature lovers and interested persons, specially youth by providing facilities for climbing, mountaineering and mountain related activities. Promote and organise mountaineering expeditions either singly or in collaboration with other mountaineering organizations/ clubs/ climbers from abroad. Organise training in mountaineering, rock, snow/ ice climbing, indoor climbing, trekking and for other/ Club activities. Organise training for liaison officers, high altitude porters, mountain and trekking guides and for other disciplines of mountain related activities. Organise and participate in rock, ice, indoor competitive climbing and trekking championships/ tournaments, both at home and abroad. Organise trekking trips and summer/ winter camps. Facilitate visiting expeditions by providing liaison officers and other required support. Advise and provide coordination on mountaineering and mountain related matters. Maintain liaison with governmental, non governmental and sister organizations at home and abroad for promotion of mountain related activities. Represent Pakistan and safe-guard its mountaineering interest at UIAA, UAAA and other international fora. Undertake measures for the preservation and protection of the environments of the mountain areas, independently or in collaboration with governmental or non-governmental organizations. Maintain archives, prepare and provide information and data on mountains and mountain related activities in Pakistan. Briefing and De-briefing of all visiting Mountaineering & Trekking Expeditions. Facilities to Members

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Following facilities are available to all members:-

Participation in various Club activities including courses, on payment of nominal fee and fulfilling the laid down criterion. Selection as climbing member in the expeditions launched or sponsored by the Club. Loan of equipment, if available, for organised and approved mountaineering and trekking activities. Participation in various functions organised by the Club. Use of Club library. Free issue of Club Newsletters and other publications, less books. Nomination for training abroad and participation in the international competitions, on meeting the prescribed criterion. Recommendation to proceed as liaison officer with the visiting expeditions, on meeting the prescribed criterion. Recommendation for suitable award by the government on climbing feat/ achievement.

Contact Addresses of Alpine Club of Pakistan


ISLAMABAD Saad Tariq Siddiqi, Secretary, Alpine Club of Pakistan Jinnah Stadium, Pakistan Sports Complex, Islamabad Tel: 051-9208963, Fax: 051-9208964 Skardu Mirza Muhammad Jaffer Shigri, C/o Al-Shifa Medicos Hamid Garh Chowk Skardu Tel: 0575-2778, 2803

Karachi. Chitral W/Comd Zafar H. K. Yusuf Zai, Prof Rehmat Karim Baig Sindh Ski Association 14-C, Stadium, Govt College, Chitral. Lane No. 4, St. # 14, Phase V, DHA Karachi. Tel: 021-5853149, 5847400, 5843871

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Quetta Mr. Hayatullah Khan Durrani, Director Alpine Club of Pakistan, Balochistan Branch H. No. 7-21/149-B , Pir Muhammad Khan Road (Nichari Road) Quetta Tel: 081-836755 Mob: 0300-8380604

Lahore Mr. Muhammad Nasir Awan 55-D, Waris Colony, Wahdat Road, Allama Iqbal Town, Lahore (54570) Tel: 042-9201451-60 Ext: 4246, 042-5426970 Mob: 0300-9484523 H# 124/17, Block-E, Sui Northern Officers Cooperative Housing Society Opp. DHA, Phase-IV, Lahore Cantt. Mob: 0300-9484523 Faisalabad Muhammad Shahid Saleem, H. No. P-438, St.3, Main Bazar Mughalpura-I, Sheikhupura Road, Faisalabad Tel: 041-780003 Mob: 0300-6658188

Azad Jammu & Kashmir Mr. Farooq Ahmed Khan Mughal, Director AJK Tourism Department, Government of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Mr. Irshad Ahmed Pirzada, Assistant Director Tourism Government of Azad State of Jammu and Kashmir, Muzaffarabad Tel: 58810, 34623, 32625 Gujaranawala Mr. Ahmed Farid 238-C, Satellite Town, Gujaranawala, Tel: 0431-296185, 253285

Saudi Arabia/ UAE Mohammad Zubair Z. Farouqi, P.O. Box 4403, Jeddah-21491, Saudi Arabia Tel: 00966-502528779 UAE: Tel: 00971-503027237

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2)

Adventure Foundation of Pakistan

Activities
Organized activities include camping and trekking to suit all ages. Courses to acquire skills in most thrill sports and adventure activities such as skiing, rock climbing, mountaineering and watermanship. Special programmes cater for the handicapped and the underprivileged. Corporate leadering and team building exercises. Promotion of school outdoor educational programmes. Training of Eco and Wilderness Guide. Consultancy on eco-tourism promotion. All ventures and projects are cooperative in nature and based on actual costs.

Contact Addresses
ABBOTTABAD Brig Jan Nadir Khan (R) President, Adventure Foundation Pakistan, Adventure Training Centre, 151, Workshop Road, Habibullah Colony, Kakul, Tel: (0992) 382190, Fax:(0992) 334537 E-mail: katcpk@yahoo.com LAHORE Altaf-ur-Rehman, Assistant Director, Young Explorers Division, C/o WWF Pakistan, Ali Institutue of Education, Ferozepur Road, Lahore, Tel: (042) 5857033 Fax: (042) 5862358 E-mail: afplhr@hotmail.com

ISLAMABAD Col. G.H. Qamar (R) General Secretary.

MULTAN Mr. Umar Kamal (Advocate) Coordinator, 161 District Courts, Multan, Ph. (061) 545089

Brig M. M. Karim (R) Chief Instructor, Hot. Air Ballooning School, Director, Aerial Division

Karachi Sh. Talib Fatah, Coordinator, 53 Maqboolabad, Allamgir Road, Ph. (021) 4853913 Mob: 0333-2138447

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Aftab-ur-Rehman Rana, Director General. AFP Garden Avenue, National Park Area, P.O. Box 1807, Islamabad- 44000 Tel: (051) 2825 805, 2272538 Fax:(051) 2272 538 E-mail afopak@yahoo.com

GILGIT Darweish Ali, Coordinator, C/o WWF Pakistan, NLI Colony, Jutial, Gilgit Tel/Fax: (05811) 55658

OVERSEAS REPRESENTATION UNITED KINGDOM Mr. Hugh R. Leach, OBE Representative, C/o Royal Society for Asian Affairs 2-Belgrave Square, London SW1X 8p Tel: 020-7732-0282 JAPAN Mr. Mohsin Imran UI Haq, Nigata Kin, Shibata Shi, Miyuki Cho, 2-12-31, Tel/Fax:0081-25-259-2886, Mobile: 0081-90-2164-7766 E-mail: imrankarvan@yahoo.com THAILAND Jacob K. Ommaya Representative, 150/4 Maesot Maetaw, Tak 63110 Thailand E-mail: justjakes@hotmail.com Telefax:66055543095

USA Mrs. Rehana Hyat Representative 192-16 Esmond, Terrace, German Town, MD 20874 (USA) E-mail: omarkh@x-press.net

SAUDI ARABIA Zubair Z. Farooqui PO Box # 4403, Jeddah-21491, KSA, E-mail: g1pk@yahoo.com

UAE Tahir Hayat Pirzada C/o Daubai bank, P.O. Box 65555 Dubai, UAE, Mob. 971-50 6557821 E.mail: tpirzada@hotmail.com

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Table No. 20: List of Some Tour Operators:


1 Adventure Centre Pakistan (Pvt) Ltd, Govt. Licence No. ID-351, 468, Sir Agha Khan Road, P.O. Box No. 516, Gilgit. Adventure Tours Pakistan, Govt. Licence No. ID-210, H. No. 551, Street No. 53, G-9/1 P.O. Box No. 1780, Islamabad Tel: 92-51-2260820,2252759 Fax: 92-51-2264251 Head Office: Airport Road, Gilgit. Tel: (058112) 54401 Fax: (058112) 52663 Adventure Travel, Govt. Licence No. ID-232, Shop No. 2, MP Chowk, Kushu Bagh, Hospital Road, Skardu, Tel: Mobile 03204261073 Alpine Trekkers & Tours Govt. Licence No. ID-307, 465, Street No. 74, G-8/1, Islamabad Baltistan Tours Pakistan, Govt. Licence No. ID-574, Dhanyal Manzil, Street No.1, Sector 3, Al-Noor Colony, Rawalpindi Tel: 4474520, Fax: 4474519 Head Office: Satellite Town, Skardu. Tel: 0092-575-55511 Fax: 0092-575-55544 Blue Sky Treks & Tour, Govt. Licence No. ID-527, P.O. Box No. 1272, G.P.O. Rawalpindi Tel: 0092-51-2873812 Fax: 0092-51-5584566 Head Office: Link Road, Girls High School, Kushu Bagh, P.O. Box No. 642-16100 Skardu. Buraq Tours, Govt. Licence No.717, Municipal Liberty Plaza, Jinnah Road, Murree, Tel: 0593-413307

90

Culture & Nature Tours Pakistan, Govt. Licence No. ID-323, 23-B, Haider Road, 2nd Floor, Rawalpindi Cantt. Tel: 0092-51-5567178 Fax: 0092-51-5584566 Himalaya Treks & Tours, Govt. Licence No. ID-341, 112 Rahim Plaza, Murree Road, P.O. Box No. 918, Rawalpindi. Tel: 5515371, Fax: 5563014 Hunza Guides Pakistan, Expeditions Trekking & Tours (Pvt) Ltd, Govt. Licence No. ID-396 P.O. Box No. 468, Islamabad. Tel: 92-51-2106891 Fax: 92-51-2106837 Hunza Travel Services, Govt. Licence No. 2007, 65-Adamjee Road, Rawalpindi. Tel: 5564782, Fax: 5513129 Hushe Treks & Tours, Govt. Licence No. 419, H. No. 764, Street 25, G-9/1, P.O. Box No. 471, Islamabad Tel: 2263594 Fax: 2261360 Head Office: Hameed Grah, Skardu. Tel: (05831) 50338 Indus Guides (Pvt) Ltd, Govt. Licence No. 2366 17-A/295, Sarwar Road, Lahore Cantt. Tel: 6650197, 6681276 Fax: 6673806 Indus World, Govt. Licence No.ID-514, Indus House, 163-B, Bank Road, P.O. Box 1036, Rawalpindi. Tel: 92-51-529473, 529474, Fax: 92-51-529476 Karakorum Adventure, Govt. Licence No.ID-386, Ganish, P.O. Karimabad, Hunza, Gilgit. Tel: 0572-57196

10

11

12

13

14

15

91

16

Karakoram Explorers, Govt. Licence No.2046, House No. 1295, St. 90, I-10/1, P.O. Box 2994, Islamabad. Tel: 92-51-4441258, Fax: 4442127 Head Office: Ganish, Karimabad, Hunza Tel: 4073 Karakoram Trekks & Tours N.A. (Pvt), Ltd. 1-Baltoro House, Street No. 19, F-7/2, Islamabad. Tel: 051- 2829120 Head Office: Link Road, Skardu. Kingdom Travel (Pvt) Ltd, Govt. Licence No.ID-330, No.2/45, Fayyaz Plaza Near PIA Office, Blue Area, Islamabad. Tel: 2825212, 2825208, Fax: 2825529 Mountain Movers, Govt. Licence No.969, Airport Road, Near Park Hotel, Gilgit. Mountain Travel Pakistan, Govt. Licence No.ID-302, 507 Poonch House Complex, Adamjee Road, Rawalpindi. Tel: 92-51-5528595, Fax: 92-51-5528596 Head Office: P.O. Box NO. 621, Satellite Town, Skardu (0575) 2750 Nazir Sabir Expeditions, Govt. Licence No.711, H. No.28/B, Nazim-uddin Road, F-8/1, P.O. Box 1442, Islamabad. Tel: 2252553, 2252580, 2853672 Fax: 2250293 Head Office: Karakoram Highway, Aliabad, Hunza, Gilgit. Tel: 05821-55120

17

18

19

20

21

92

22

Nippa International Travel & Tours Govt. Licence No. 736 1-5 Ellahi Chamber, Khayaban-e-Suhardwardy, G-6/1, Islamabad. Tel: 2871322-25 Fax: 2871320 Nippa Travel, Govt. Licence No.2011 H. No. 22, Bazar Road, G-6/4, Islamabad. Tel: 2874656, 2824556 Fax: 92-51-2272958, 2824556 Oriental Links Travel & Tourism, Govt. Licence No. ID-489, 62/10, Bank Road, P.O. Box 56, Rawalpindi Tel: 92-51-5529081, 5527389, Fax: 92-51-5229063 Pakistan Tours Limited, Govt. Licence No. 385, 14-19, Flashmans Hotel, The Mall, Rawalpindi. Tel: 9272017-18, 9272004, Fax: 9272020 Salmans Int. Travels (Pvt) Ltd. Govt. Licence No. 1889, No. 11, Choudry Plaza, Block 51, Blue Area, Islamabad. Tel: 2274397, Fax: 2274309 Sitara Travel Consultants, Govt. Licence No.09, Waheed Plaza, 3rd Floor, 52-West, Blue Area, Islamabad. Tel: 2873372-75, Fax: 2279651,2279676 SN Travel & Tourism Co. (Pvt) Ltd, Govt. Licence No.ID-177, 13-14, Muhammadi Plaza, F-6, Nazim-uddin Road, Jinnah Avenue, Islamabad. Tel: 2275667 & 69 Fax: 2275668

23

24

25

26

27

28

93

29

Siachen Travel & Tours Pakistan, Govt. Licence No. ID-261, P.O. Box. 622, Satellite Town, Skardu, Tel: (0575) 50207 Sunrise Holidays Tour & Travel, Govt. Licence No.ID-585, 82-East, Gulistan House No.1, Ground Floor, Fazal-e-Haq Road, Blue Area, Islamabad. Tel: 2270596, 2201560 Fax: 2271670 Vista Tourism, Govt. Licence No. ID-352, Management Services, Flat-B, Block 20-D, G-8 Markaz, Islamabad. Tel: 2253092, Fax: 2253093 Waljis Travel Bureau (Pvt) Ltd, Govt. Licence No.528, 10-Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara, Islamabad. Tel: 2270749, 2870206-9, Fax: 2270753, 2274331

30

31

32

Source: Extracted from Pakistan Travel Trade Directory 2005-06, Ministry of Tourism

94

.Table No. 21 : P.T.D.C. Motels Motel/Location 1. 2. ASTAK AYUBIA Tel: (0992) 359004 BAHAWALPUR Tel: (0621) 9250169-70 BIRMOGLASHT Tel: (0933)412683 BAMBURET BESHAM Tel: (09964) 400301 BUNNI (0943) 470661 CHITRAL Tel: (0933) 412683 GILGIT Tel; (05811)54262 GUPIS Tel: (05815) 58019 HUNZA Tel; (05821)57069 KALAM Tel; (0936) 830014, 830235 KHAPLU Tel: (05832) 50146 MALAM JABBA Tel: (0936) 755588 Room Type Standard Room Economy Room Standard Room Deluxe Standard Room Standard Room Standard Room Standard Room Standard Room Economy Room Deluxe Room Standard Room Deluxe Standard Room Standard Room Deluxe Standard Room Deluxe Hut Standard Room Economy Room Chalet Standard Rooms Deluxe Suite Standard Room 3. No. of Rooms 4 25 Tariff (Rs) Single Double 1100 1100 1800 2300 1940 1100 1540 1870 1100 900 1550 1260 1650 1100 1320 1930 1700 2100 2900 1540 1320 1800 2700 -1100 5. 1320 1450 2100 2900 2420 1320 1820 2420 1320 1100 1820 1650 1980 1320 1650 2200 2100 2700 3300 1820 1650 2400 3300 6000 1320 6.

3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12

14 12 16 35 4 30 44 12 28 38

13 14

12 42

15 1.

MASTUJ Tel: (0933) 486034 2.

10 4.

95

16

MIANDAM Tel: (0936) 616333 Moenjodaro

Standard Room Deluxe Economy Room Standard Room A.C. Room Economy Room Standard Room Cabana Hut Hill Top Cottage View Cottage Surti Hut River/ Pine Cottg Kunhar Standard Room

21

1540 1870 330 550 800 800 1900 2200 --3300 6600 -1000

1870 2420 440 750 1000 1100 2400 3000 4000 4000 4000 8000 8000 1200

17.

18

NARAN Tel; (0987) 430002

60

19

PANAKOT (DIR) Tel; (0934) 880900 PHANDAR Tel: (05815) 54262 RAMA LAKE Tel: (05817) 59049 SAIDU SHARIF Tel: (0946) 9240156-8 SATPARA Tel; (05831) 50291 SKARDU Tel; (05831) 50291 SUST Tel: (05823) 51030 TAFTAN Tel: (0825) 415248

20

Standard Room

12

1100

1320

21

Standard Room

12

1100

1320

22

AC Room Non-AC Room Standard Room

23

1650 880 550

2200 1320 770

23.

12

24

Standard Room New Block Standard Room

28

1320 1930 1320

1760 2300 1540

25

24

26.

Standard Room

550

750

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

96

27.

TAXILA Tel: () 9314204-5 WAGHA Tel: (042) 6583072 ZIARAT Tel: (0833) 410356

Standard Room

550

750

28

Standard

350

450

29

Standard

18

1540

1870

Note:Source:

Above rates are subjected to Government Taxes where applicable.


Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation of Pakistan (PTDC), Islamabad.

For Booking Contact: House No.4 St. 41, F-6/1, Islamabad Tel: (051) 9208948-49, 9203223, 111-555-999, Fax: 9218233 E-mail; ptdcibd@apollo.net.pk 2. Room: 220, Metropole Hotel, Karachi. Tel: (021) 9206383, 9206348, Fax: 9206376 PTDC Information Centre, Club Road, Karachi, Tel: (021) 9202971, 9206070 PTDC Information Centre, Muslim Hotel, Jinnah Road, Quetta Tel: (081) 2825826 PTDC Motel, Saidu Sharif, Swat, Tel: (0946) 9240157-58 Fax:9240156

97

Table No. 22: PTDC TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES (TICs) IN PAKISTAN For information, local assistance, planning your holidays and booking of PTDC Hotel, Motels, Transport and Tours, please contact any of the following Tourism Information Centres (TICs).
1. Abbottabad Club Annexe, Jinnah Road, Tel: (0992) 9310168 Gilgit PTDC Motel, Chinnar Inn, Babar Road, Tel: 05811- 54262 Fax: 52650 Islamabad International Airport Near International Departure Lounge, Tel: (051) 9280563 Lahore 66-D-1, Gulberg-III, Tel:(042) 5755940 Fax: 5760062 Moenjodaro Opp: Moenjodaro Museum, Tel:(074) 4080082 Peshawar Benevolent Fund Building Saddar Road, Tel: & Fax: (091) 9211826 Rawalpindi Room No. 7,Flashman's Hotel, The Mall, Tel: (051) 9272004-11, 9272016 Skardu PTDC K-2, Motel, Tel:(05831) 50291-2 Fax: 50293 Thatta PTDC Hospitality Complex Tel: (0298) 771319 2. Bahawalpur PTDC Motel, Club Road, Near D.C.O. Office, Tel:(0621) 9250168, Fax: 9250171 Islamabad Agha Khan Road, Markaz F-6, Super Market, Tel: (051) 9212760, 9202766 Fax: 9204027 Karachi Shafi Chambers, Club Road, Saddar Tel: (021) 9202971, Fax: 9206376 Lahore Airport Opposite International Arrival Lounge, Allama Iqbal International Airport, Tel: (042) 9240023 Multan Sindbad Hotel, Nishter Chowk, Bahawalpur Road, Tel:(061) 9201291 Quetta Muslim Hotel, Jinnah Road, Tel: (081) 2825826 Saidu Sharif (Swat) PTDC Motel, Opp: Swat Serena Hotel, Tel: (0946) 9240159 Fax: 9240156 Taxila PTDC Motel, Opp: Taxila Museum, Tel:(0596) 9314206

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

Source: Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC).

98

Table No. 23 : Brief History of Mountaineering in Pakistan

1950
A Norwegian expedition makes the first ascent of Tirich Mir (7708 m), the highest of Hindukush. Kvernberg and Capt Tony Streath reached the summit.

1951
First Pakistani expedition is launched on Tirich Mir led by Main Abdul Raoof. Other members include Daud Baig, Arshad Munir and Capt Shaukat Malik. Expedition was unsuccessful (Organized by Karakoram Club).

1953
An Austro German Expedition led by Dr. K.M. Herlikoffer makes the first ascent of Nanga Parbat on 3 June. Mr. Hermann Buhl reaches the summit in solo climb of 40 hours.

1954
An Italian Expedition led by Prof Ardito Desio makes the first ascent of K-2 on 31st July, Archille Compagnoni and Lion Lacedelli reach the summit Col. Dr. Attaullah accompanies the expedition as Liaison Officer Capt G.S. But as Asstt L.O.

1954
Mr. Mahdi becomes the first Pakistani to reach the height of 8000 metres with Italian K-2 Expedition.

1956
An Austrian Expedition under F. Moravec makes the first ascent of Gasherbrum-II on 7th May. Larch, F. Moravec and H. Willenpart reach the summit.

1957
An Austrian Expedition makes the first ascent of Broad Peak. Famous climber Hermann Buhi, Kurt Diamberger, M. Schmuck and F. Wintersteller reach the summit. Later Hermann Buhl, while attempting to climb Chogolisa Peak disappeared.

1958
First Joint British Pakistan Defence Forces Himalaya Expedition with Capt Mike Banks as leader makes the first ascent of Rakaposhi. Pakistani members were Capt Shah Khan and Capt Raja M. Bashir.

1958
First American Pakistan Expedition led by Pete Schoening makes the first ascent of Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak. Pakistani members include Capt Tasawar Hussain Rizivi and Lt. Mohammad Akram.

1960
A joint American Pakistan Expedition led by George Bell makes the first ascent of Gasherbrum the K1; Capt Javed Akhter reaches the summit and becomes first Pakistani to make ascent of a high peak. He is awarded first Presidents Medal for Pride of Performance in the field of mountaineering.

1962
A joint Japanese Pakistan Expedition makes first ascent of Soltoro Kangrai. Raja Bashir Ahmad from Karakoram Club becomes first Pakistani to climb Soltoro Kangrai.

99

1974
Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) is established with Lt. Gen. Ghulam Jilani Khan as its President and Brig. G.S. But as its Secretary. A joint American Pakistan expedition to Paiyu peak (6600 m) is launched under Dr. Nicholas B. Clinch. Pakistani members include Fit Lt. Javed Iqbal, Lt. Saeed Ahmad and Mr. Momin Hamid (who lost during an accident on the peak). The expedition is unsuccessful. (organized by ACP).

1976
First Pakistani Services Expedition makes the first ascend of the unclimbed 6600 m high Paiyu peak. Nazir Sabir, Maj. Manzoor Hussain (leader) and Maj. Bashir Ahmed reach the summit. Other members included Sqn. Ldr. Javed Iqbal, Capt. Saeed Ahmad, Capt Amjad Kamal Butt, Capt. Muhammad Ayaz, Capt. Dr. Tahir Ahmed and Flt Lt. Yousafzai. (organized by ACP).

1977
First Joint Japanese Pakistan Expedition launched to K-2, Pakistani side includes Nazir Sabir, Ashraf Aman and Capt. Sher Khan. Mr. Ashraf Aman becomes first Pakistani to make ascent to K-2 along with other Japanese members (organized by ACP).

1978
Joint Pakistan Japanese Services Expedition (under Capt. Chitoshi Ando and Maj. Manzoor Hussain) makes first ascent of Passu peak. Capt. Sher Khan and Inyat Wali reach the summit with four Japanese members, (organized by ACP).

1979
Maj. Fayyaz Hussain becomes first Pakistani to climb Gasherbrum II while in the company of an Austrian expedition. First joint Polsih Pakistan expedition climbs Rakaposhi, Capt Sher Khan becomes first Pakistani to climb Rakaposhi (organized by ACP).

1981
Nazir Sabir becomes second Pakistani to ascend K-2 with a Japanese Expedition Pakistan holds first ever International Mountaineering and Trekking Convention (organized by Ministry of Tourism).

1982
First joint Italian-Pakistan expedition climbs Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II in alpine style. Nazir Sabir and Maj. Sher Khan become first Pakistanis to climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum-II with Reinhold Messner in a record period of one week (organized by ACP).

1985
First Pakistani expedition under Maj. Fayyaz Hussain climbs Broad Peak. Maj Fayyaz, Maj Zahid and Capt. Peerzada reach the summit. (organized by Pakistan Army).

1986
Mohammad Ali becomes first Pakistani to climb Gasherbrum-I while in the company of a Swiss expedition. First Pakistani expedition under Maj. Sher Khan climbs Gasherbrum II. Maj. Sher Khan, Cap. Jababr Bhatti and Flt. Lt. Ata ul Haq reach the summit. (organized by Pakistan Army).

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1987
First Pakistani expedition led by Maj. Fayyaz Hussain attempts Gasherbrum I meets tragedy as Maj. Fayyaz, Capt. Fakhar, Capt. Khalid and Capt. Mohsin were buried under an avalanche. Later their bodies were recovered. (organized by Pakistan Army).

1989
First Pakistani Expedition led by Col. Muhammad Akram climbs Nanga Parbat. Maj. Sher Khan, Flt. Lt. Ata ul Haq, Hav Mohammadullah and Rajab Shah reach the summit. (organized by Pakistan Army).

1995
Rajab Shah and Meherban Shah become first Pakistani couple to climb K-2, marking total of four Pakistanis to climb K-2.

1996
Largest Pakistani Expedition led by comprising 46 members including ladies launched to Passu Peak under Lt. Col. (Retd) Manzoor Hussain. Fifteen Pakistanis including oldest climber Saad Tariq Siddipi (56 years), Rajab Shah, Mehrban Shah, and 12 other young climbers reached the summit (organized by ACP).

1997
First Pakistani expedition to Mt. Everest is launched led by Nazir Sabir. The nine members include Col. Sher Khan, Capt. Mohammad Iqbal, Rajab Shah. Mehrban Shah, Sarwar Khan, Ghulam Hussan, Mohammad Ibrahim, Rozi Ali and Capt. Dr. Saifullah. The expedition despite Launching three brave summit attempts, remains short of Everest summit by 300 metres. (organized by ACP). First China Pakistan expedition launched to Nanga Parbat led by Sam Druk, Aziz Beg and Muhammadullah reach the summit along with six Tibetan Chinese Climbers. (organized by ACP).

1998
First Pakistani expedition launched to Spantik Peak (7200 m) led by Saad Tariq Siddiqui. Muhammad Zubair Farooqi, Rehamtullah and Nisar Hussain reached the summit. (organized by ACP).

1999
Rajab Shah becomes the first Pakistani to ascend all five highest peaks above eight thousand metres situated in Pakistan after climbing Gasherbrum II, while in the company of a Japanese expedition.

2000
Nazir Sabir becomes first Pakistani to make ascent of the highest peak on earth Mt Everest from South Col, Nepal as part of a joint American Canadian Pakistani Expedition.

2001
Meetings of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation UIAA (Union Internationale Des Associations DAlpinisme, UAAA (Union of the Asian Alpine Associations) and the Himalayan Countries Mountaineering Forum are hosted, first time ever, in Pakistan.

101

These meetings held on the occasion of the Annual Convention of ACP are attended by 69 foreign delegates from 23 countries. (organized by ACP). An international conference on mountains was organized by PTDC at Hunza with a number of foreign participants.

2002
29 expedition parties attempted the five peaks with altitude of 8000 meters and above K-2 received maximum number of expeditions followed by Broad Peak and Gasherbrum-I.

2003
Year 2003 was declared as Golden Jubilee Year of Nanga Parbat. In this connection PTDC produced a commemorative poster, which was distributed locally and abroad in the international tourism fairs ie. ITB Berlin, WTM London and ATM Dubai.

2004
A number of promotional measures were taken by the Government of Pakistan for the promotion of mountaineering. In this connecton a Golden Jubilee of K-2 and 51st Anniversary of Nanga Parbat was celebrated from 10th July to 14th July 2004 to improve the tourist friendly image of the country in the tourist generating counties. On the occasion of K-2 Golden Jubilee celerbration a commemorative stamp was issued.

2005
45 expeditions attempted the five peaks with atltitude of 8000 and above. Nanga Parbat received maximum number of expeditions followed by Gasherbrum-II, Gasherbrum-I and Broad Peak. Most successful peak was Nanga Parbat conquered by nine expeditions out of 12 expeditions. During 2005, no expedition conquered K-2 while during 2004, it was conquered by eight expeditions. Source: Golden Jubilee Celebrations K-2 and 51st Anniversary Nanga Parbat 2004, Produced by PTDC.

102

Table No. 24: Profile of the Highest Peaks in Pakistan 1. K-2 (8611 M)
Pakistan has some of the richest mountain ranges, the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush and the Karakoram converging in the Northern Areas capped with some of the worlds tallest peaks among them K-2, the worlds second highest at 8611m known to locals and ancient Tibetans as Chogori. It is the worlds biggest pyramid of rock, ice and snow with its great-serrated slopes and the most elegant mountain standing alone, dominating the entire surroundings. Discovered by Siur Godwin Austen in 1861 its perfect cone astounded Colonel Francies Young Husband in 1887 when he first saw it. William Martin Conway then arrives on the scene in 1892 in the great ice junction, which he named Concordia. But it was not until 1909 when the Duke of Abruzzi Expedition reconnoitered K-2 that a good account of the mountain became available. The Southeast ridge by which he made his aborted attempt is still known as the Abruzzi Ridge that has now become the normal expedition route on K-2. The great south face, 3500m high, offers the most familiar look by which photographers have helped to fix its image. The famous Abruzzi Ridge rises above the Godwin Austen Glacier directly to summit of the shoulder. The South-South West ridge often known as the Magic Line which is just behind the Angel Peak is a 2300m sheer climb from the Negretto Saddle. Its North face was explored in 1937 by Eric Shiption After a number of failed attempts by mainly Americans and Italians it was in 1954 that an Italian expedition, under the leadership of Professor Ardito Desio, got the summit. Two Italian members of this team namely Achille Compagnoni & Lino Lacedelli became the first to scale the summit from where they witnessed a dream like world. The ascent of K-2 was a great event not only for Italy but the whole mountaineering world. Having been summated the mountain remained unclimbed for another spell of over 20 years. A few attempts were made between 1974 and 1976 but were not successful. 1977 was the year when new faces appeared on the Baltoro and in the same year a large Japanese/ Pakistani team put seven climbers on the top of K-2. Among them Ashraf Aman became the first Pakistani to have scaled K-2 on 9th August 1977. Nazir Sabbir (the only Pakistani to have scaled Everest in 2000) summitted K-2 via West Ridge a more technically challenging route with Waseda University Alpine Club on August 7, 1981. Rajab Shah and Mehrab Shah reached the top of K-2 with a team from Holland in 1995. Since the early years of the 20th century, over a 100 attempts have been made on K-2, out of which nearly one-third succeeded. The ascent of K-2 has claimed many lives. Climbers described it as the mountaineers mountains for the sheer skill that is required to negotiate its technical passage up the pyramid from almost any route.

2.

Nanga Parbat (8125 M).


103

The westernmost peak of the Himalayas is Nanga Parbat (8125m), the ninth highest mountain in world ranking and second in Pakistan. From the arid Indus Valley the view of its massive vast snowy face is a glorious spectacle. Apart from the highest 8125m Nanga Parbat in the massif, there are several other prominent peaks such as Raikot, Chongra, Mazino, Buldar, Ganato and Jilipur. Nanga Parbat has three main faces known as Rupal, Diamer and Raikot, which are totally different in appearance and their routes start from different valleys. Trupal Face is in Astore region of Diamer and known as the highest rock face of 4570m. The Diamer Face is known for its most direct route and is famous among alpinists. The Raikot Face at the head of Fairly Meadows, one of the most beautiful places on earth, has the longest route from base to peak. Though the approach routes to the base camps of Nanga Parbat are easy and scenic but the climb is treacherous and technical. Unstable glaciers, frequent storms and avalanches have proved hazardous. Due to the highest rate of accidents and number of causalities while making early attempts on this peak, the peak got the name of Killer Mountain and was considered as un-climbable for a long period. This idea was also supported by the local legends about demons and fairies guarding the mountain. Unfortunately, the name of Killer Mountain was associated with Nanga Parbat but in fact this is one of the most spectacular peaks in the world, popular among climbers and trekkers alike. It was in 1856 when Adolf Schlagintweit reached at the foot of Nanga Parbat and sent his reports with sketches and Nanga Parbat came in lime light in Europe. Later on in 1892, W. Martin Conway visited the Nanga Parbat region during his Karakoram Expedition and announced that Railkot Face is supposedly the best possible to make a summit bid. In 1895 a British mountaineer Albert Frederick Mummery along with other climbers made the first attempt to climb Nanga Parbat. Mummery and his Gorkha porter Raghobir started climbing from Rupal side and disappeared without any trace. In 1910, the mountain writer and publisher Walter Schmidkunz advised that Nanga Parbad is best attempted from Raikot Valley. In 1934, German Himalayan Expedition led by Willie Merkl reached up to a height of 7850m. Merkl along with three climbers and six Sherpas perished in a blizzard. Karlo Wien was the next victim of Nanga Parbat in 1937 when he was died in an avalanche with seven other climbers and nine porters. In 1938 Paul Bauer made a concrete attempt with a good climbing team but reached up to 7300m only. In 1939, a reconnaissance expedition led by Peter Aufschnaiter made two attempts on Diamer Face but bound to gain the maximum height of just 6000m. In 1950, a British expedition made the first winter reconnaissance of Nanga Parbat but again the unfortunate J. Thomley and W. Carce perished while climbing. In initial reconnaissance, route finding and climbing attempts, the Germans made a rich contribution and Nanga Parbat got the name as German Mountain (few other names associated to this peak are Sleeping Beauty, Killer Mountain and Naked Mountain etc. In 1953, a German Austrian Himalaya expedition was initiated by Dr. Karl Maria Herligkoffer (stepbrother to the Willy Merkl died on Nanga Parbat in 1934). The expedition faced several problems but finally with the support of a good climbing team, made an attempt. The climbing started smoothly and camps were established but due to a deteriorated weather spell, Herligkoffer ordered all the climbers to come down from mountain to base camp. Buhl, Kampter, Frauenbergar and the cameraman Ertl were still in the higher camps. The had refused the retreat order and on July 1st, the weather turned better and on July 2nd, Buhl and Kempter established camp V at 6900m. On July 3rd, at 1.00 a.m. Buhl left the camp heading upwards while Kempter followed him At 5.00 a.m. the sun rose above the horizon and Buhl reached the Silver Saddle. The three Km long plateau taxed Buhls strength. At the end of the plateau, Buhl had some tea and left his pack behind to move easily. Kempter also had reached the plateau but realized that Buhl is far away so he returned to the camp.

104

Buhl reached at 7800m, and had the technically most difficult section of the whole climb ahead of him and the last 300 meters didnt look promising. He started climbing the rocks and reached the shoulder then at 7 p.m. he stood on the summit. It was dead clam and perfectly clear, the chapter Nanga Parbat was finished for the lonely man on the top. He planted his ice-axe with Pakistani and Tyroli flags attached to it and took a few pictures. Night was falling fast as he started to descend. At a tiny ledge above 8000 m, he had an emergency bivouac and stood there for the whole night in exposure. At dawn he started descending and again after a hazardous full day of walking reaching back to the camp. The history was made and it is truly said that if anyone at that time could manage such a climb, it was Hermann Buhl. Nanga Parbat was next climbed by Reinhold Messner from Rupal Side.The expedition was again led by herligkoffer. Later on Messner climbed the mountain from Diamer face as well, while making a remarkable and historical solo climb. A team of Pakistan climbers has also scaled the mountain in 1989 when Sher Khan, Ata and other climbers succeeded to reach at summit.

3.

Gasherbrum 1 (8,068m)

Gasherbrum means a shining wall. This refers to 3,050m/ 10,000 ft pale limestone walls of the great trapezeshaped Gasherbrum IV peak. There are six Gasherbrum peaks in the Karakoram range. It was Captain Younghusband and his party which in 1889 discovered Gasherbrum glacier. Subsequently in 1934, an International Himalayan expedition of G.O. Dyhrenfurth, a German American geologist-cum-climber and winner of the 1936 Olympic Gold Medal, visited the area and after doing some photographic work on the Baltoro glacier, made an attempt on the south-east ridge of Gasherbrum No.1 peak, which is also called Hidden peak (8068m/26,470ft). In 1935, Dr. P.C. Visser, a Dutch, and his party surveyed Gasherbrum glacier. It was, however, in 1936 that a strong French expedition led by H. de Segogne tried its luck on Gasherbrum No.1 peak. The party went up to 6.797m/ 22,300 ft where camp V was established. Subsequently the party located a place for camp VI at 7,010m.23,000 feet. It was, however, due to a continuous storm and bad weather that the party was forced to abandon its plan. Two of the sherpas, out of a total of 35, were unharmed when they fell down to 1,800 feet after being hit by an avalanche. The route adopted by the party passed through Srinagar Zoji pass Dras Karghil Skardu Shigar Askole and Baltoro glacier. It was, however, an American expedition of Nick Clinch which in 1958 climbed Gasherbrum No.1 peak. Schoening and Kaufman went to its top.

4.

Broad Peak (8,047m)

The local name of Broad peak is Falchan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8,047m/ 26,401 ft. It is called Broad peak because of its breadth at the top. It has also been called enormous tripe-headed Breithorn (4,165m high tree-headed peak of European alps) of the Baltoro. In 1954 Dr. Karl M. Herligkoffer of West Germany tried to climb it. His original objective, however, was to climb

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Gasherbrum-I. He is stated to have failed in persuading porters to carry loads beyond Concordia above the Baltoro glacier. Accordingly, the party the luggage and made an attempt, from the south-western side, through the lower Broad glacier. It however, did not meet with success because of a storm and a very low temperature. In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a climber, Kurt Diemberger, an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer, and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known postwar Austrian climbers. It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently it climbed a snow gully and camped at 5,791m/ 19,000ft. While climbing, it made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition. On the 29th May, all members of the expedition left camp III for an assault on the summit. A storm forced them to return to the base camp. It was, however, on the 9th June, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters. It was after this climb that Schmuck and Wntersteller climbed an un-named peak (7,360m/ 24147ft). In ten hours they crossed ten miles of the Godwin-Austen and Savoia glaciers and climbed up a snow slope on skis to camp at about 6,096m/ 20,000ft. On the 19th June, they ascended in twelve hours the remaining 1,219m/ 4,000 ft on the south-west face of the summit, first on hard snow and then in deep powder. They were back at base camp just 52 hours after their departure. What an extraordinary feat of self-discipline, endurance and sheer determination. The un-named peak so climbed is probably the Skill Brum peak of Jerziwala Poslih maps. The other two climbers, Diemberger and Buhl, headed towards Chogolisa peak where Buhl met his death by falling from the mountain. The name of other peak in the Broad range is Broad peak middle/ central. Some maps show its height at 8,016m while the others show it 8,000m. It is stated to have been climbed in 1975. Anyhow, it was in 1976 that a French expedition led by Yannick Seigneur made an attempt on this peak in alpine style, along with main Broad peak. This party of four followed the Austrian first-ascent route and made four attempts but could go only upto 7,925m/ 26,000ft. The expedition had to come back because of bad weather. A six member Spanish mountaineering expedition climbed Broad (central) peak in 1987. Leader of the party was Josef Estruch. The third peak in the Broad range is Broad peak North. Again some maps show its height as 7,538m while the others show it 7,550m. An Italian expedition, which was led by Renato Casarotto, attempted to climb it in 1982 but was unsuccessful. The party shows its height as 7,600m/ 24,935ft. Casarotto, however, succeeded in climbing it is 1983.

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5.

Gasherbrum-II (8,035m).

In 1956, members of an Austrian Karakoram expedition climbed Gasherbrum No.II peak (8,035m/ 26,361 ft). The party was led by Fritz Moravec. It set a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier, Camp No.1, was set up at 6,005m/ 19,700ft. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently it lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart set up a bivouac below 7,620m/ 25,000ft. Inspite of frostbites suffered in the bivouac, the three reached the summit of Gasherbrum No.II on the 8th July and came back without meeting any further accident. ______________________________________________________________________ Source: (i) Golden Jubilee Celebrations K-2 and 51st Anniversary Nanga Parbat 2004, Produced by PTDC. (ii) The Unique Mountains by Naseer Ullah Awan.

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Table 25:

The Top Five Peaks in Pakistan and Their Heights Latitude and Longitude

1.

K-2 8,611m 35 O 53N, 76 O 31E, Nearby glacier(s) Godwin-Austen and Savoia. First Climb The Peak was climbed in 1954 by an Italian Mountaineering Expedition Party which was led by Professor Ardito Desio, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni merd ascent via Abruzzi ridge.

2.

NANGA PARBAT 8,125m 35 O 74N, 74 O - 35E. Nearby glacier(s) Diamir, Rakhiot and Rupal. First Climb The Peak was climbed in June, 1953 by the legendary mountaineer, Hermann Buhl.

3.

GASHERBRUM NO.I 8,068m 35 O 43N, 76 O 42E, Nearby glacier(s) West and South Gasherbrum).

First Climb The Peak was climbed in 1958 by an American expedition. 4. BROAD PEAK 8,047m 35 O 48N, 76 O 34E, Nearby glacier(s) Godwin Austen and Broad.

First Climb The Peak was climbed in 1957 by an Austrian expedition. 5. GASHERBRUM NO.II 8,035m 35 O 45N, 76 O 39E, Nearby glacier(s) South Gasherbrum and Abruzzi. First Climb The Peak was climbed in 1956 by an Austrian expedition. Source: The Unique Mountains by Naseer Ullah Awan.

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Suggestions and Comments


Research and Statistics Section welcomes any query and/or suggestions to improve the text/information etc contained in this Report. Following officers may be contacted for comments and suggestions:

1.

Mr. Zafarullah Siddiqui, Economic Analyst

9th Floor, Green Trust Tower, Jinnah Avenue, Blue Area, Islamabad. Tel: (051) 9203989 E-mail: EA@tourism.gov.pk. 9th Floor, Green Trust Tower, Jinnah Avenue, Blue Area, Islamabad. Tel: (051) 9204881

2.

Mr. Abdur Rehman Deputy Chief (R&S).

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