Shed Construction Process

3/02/2009
Hi, all
cc: Tom Coakley Steve Holms Ron Johnson Lynn Lewis Donna Scott Chuck Sgro Susan Turner Joe Bill Wathen
Youve probably noticed that Im way behind schedule re getting you the next draft of the Construction Manual sorry, I got bogged down in other things . But, rest assured that the 2009 Construction Manual is not forgotten, and Im still committed to getting it finished. Toward that end, attached is a revised version of the manual for building our sheds, which Im planning to include as an appendix to the Construction Manual. Will you please try and review this and get back to me with your comments by April 1 st (no fooling) you can just put marked up copies in Chuck Sgros mailbox at the center he knows where to find me! Thanks, Lynn
p.s. Youll notice changes to the framing of the shed walls: 1. New layout door is framed like our 3068 Interior Door - non-load bearing 2. New layout has stud spacing (up to) 2 3. New layout uses studs on flat for front and back walls for trim blocking - I assumed that trim blocking was the reason for the extra studs and spacers in the Old layout. All 4 corners of New layout have 5 of wood, which seems plenty for attaching 1x4 trim. 4. No changes between Old and New re exterior dimensions 5. No change in sheets of T-1-11 - both Old & New layouts require 7 sheets for walls; 2 front, 2 back, and 1 for each side, and 1 additional sheet for the triangular gable ends. Counting the 16 - 15 spacers in the Old design as 3 precuts, the difference between the two layouts is 30 Precuts for Old vs 21 Precuts for New - 9 fewer precuts for each shed we build. Every penny counts! Also - re trusses for the shed. The old shed manual has 98 for the bottom chord penciled in - do you know who penciled it in and whether we should be using the original 99 or the 98 (or is it 97)? Help! Im drawing the truss in Sketchup and it doesnt like uncertainties! Also, whats the final word on the bee keepers those vents that went between the outside face of the shed walls and the fascia board?
/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_4/183246249.doc Printed
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Shed Construction
Louisville Habitat for Humanity
Introduction
This guide details the building of a shed for Louisville Habitat for Humanity from start to finish. The goal is to provide easy to understand instructions, photos, and drawings for the construction of our sheds. The shed is 6 x 8. The walls and trusses can be built in the Construction Center and set up on the concrete slab on site. The walls are then sheathed with pre-primed grooved plywood siding (generally referred to as T-1-11). The roof is sheathed with OSB, covered with 30# felt, and then shingled - including a ridge vent. Finally, the shed is trimmed with 1x4s. The T-1-11 is painted to match the houses siding color, and the trim is painted white.
Shed Construction Overview

1. Assemble walls and trusses 2. Set up walls on concrete pad, check for plumb and square 3. Nail walls together and nail cap plates 4. Secure bottom plates to concrete 5. Set trusses in place and nail 6. Nail T-1-11 siding to walls and gable ends 7. Attach 2x6 beveled 23 deg fascia to truss ends (gutterboards) 8. Nail 2x6 fascia to front and back walls (rake boards, plumb cut) 9. Nail roof OSB sheathing - leave 1 gap each side at peak, use H clips 10. Attach drip edge to lower horizontal roof edges 11. Attach 30# roof felt with cap nails 12. Install drip edge on gable ends, over felt 13. Shingle roof 14. Attach roof ridge vent 15. Cap shingles for roof and roof vent 16. Install door and hardware 17. Nail 1x4 trim to front and back walls 18. Paint T-1-11 house siding color; prime trim & fascia, then paint with exterior white semigloss
Construct Walls
Shed walls are framed with 2x4s nailed with 16d nails. Use pressure treated 2x4s for the bottom plates. Refer to Figures 1-3 for the framing of the Front, Back, and (2) Side walls. a. Square up each wall b. Be sure and use pressure treated 2x4s for the bottom plates c. Notice that there is unusual spacing for the studs or cripples in some cases - these studs have been spaced so that the 4x8 T-1-11 sheathing can be applied in full or sheets - no waste! d. The rough opening for the door, 38, is shown on the Front wall. e. The 2x4s on the flat for the Front and Back walls will be on the outside of the wall, and are positioned to support the 1x4 trim f. The (2) side walls are identical.
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Cap Plates
Cap Plates - youll need 2x4 material for cap plates; 2 @ 6 and 2 @ 7 5. If cap plates will be cut on site you can also use some shorter lengths (minimum 3), but make sure that you tie front and side walls together.
Construct Trusses
Refer to Figure 4 & 5 for the framing of the trusses. Remember - all of the trusses must be the same height and length, so cut and assemble carefully. 1. Cut 2x4s slightly longer than required for the middle and (2) side verticals for each truss. For 4 trusses youll need: 8 @ 10 and 4 @ 18 2. Cut the required angle cuts on one end of each piece. Trim the two side verticals to an overall length of 9 5/8 Leave the center verticals long - these will be trimmed to fit exactly later. 3. Set the chop saw to miter at 23 deg and cut one end of each rafter. Mark the desired length, 53, from the peak on each rafter. 4. The bottom of the rafter which attaches to the horizontal chord is more difficult to cut accurately, so a jig is provided as a guide for the table saw. 5. Cut the bottom chord for each truss 98 long 6. Lay the left and right rafters and the bottom chord flat on the table and align the 23 deg cuts at the peak. Place the two side vertical braces in place and maintain the 24 1/4 total height from the peak to the bottom of the bottom chord. Trim the middle brace to fit and install. 7. Cut scraps of OSB to use as gussets - these dont have to match the contours exactly, but they cant hang over the outside edges and you need to be able to glue and screw through the gussets and into the truss members. 8. Glue each gusset in place with construction adhesive, and screw securely. Its OK to put gussets on only one side of each truss, but if desired you can add gussets to the back side of two of the trusses the two trusses which will be on the ends of the shed cannot have gussets on the outside - these would interfere with the siding.
Install Walls
1. Start by measuring the slab, including diagonals. Snap chalk lines for wall layout. 2. Position each wall in turn, using a 4 level to make sure that the wall is plumb in both directions before nailing the walls together at the corners. 3. Make sure that the shed is spaced evenly on the slab, walls are plumb, and the building is square (by checking diagonal measurements). 4. Nail on the cap plates - 2 16d nails into each stud 5. Secure the bottom plates to the slab with Tapcon (or similar) concrete screws or by using 22 caliber powder activated nails.
Install Trusses:
1. The truss tails will extend beyond the side walls 1 on each side. This allows for T-1-11 and gap for ventilation on each side. 2. Truss spacing is app. 23 on center. 3. The front and back trusses are placed directly over the wall studs, with gussets facing inside. 4. Plumb the first truss, brace it, then toenail it in place. Install the next truss in position; brace it to the 1st truss with temporary 1x3 nailed across the top. Add the next two trusses, plumbing and bracing each.
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Wall Sheathing - T-1-11

1. Refer to Figure 6 for T-1-11 installation 2. The shed is sided with 4x8 sheets of T-1-11 grooved plywood. The edges of each sheet of T-1-11 should land on a stud or cripple. For seams which will show, plan your cuts so that youll be butting with the factory edges. Use 8d galvanized nails to attach the siding. 3. The front and back walls will require 2 full sheets each. The two side walls will each require 1 full sheet and 1 half sheet. 4. The front and back gable ends will require 4 roughly triangular pieces. Cut 4 pieces to fit, but the grooves must be vertical! A small gap at the outer edges can be covered later by trim. 5. Siding for the front wall can be installed right over the door opening; the door opening can be cut out later. 6. The 1x4 exterior trim, installed later, will cover seams in the T-1-11.
Gutterboards and Rake Boards

1. Gutterboards: Measure the length, outside to outside, of the truss tails (hint - should be 6). Cut 2x6s to length + 1 (gutterboard, or fascia, will extend beyond truss tails on each end to cover the T-1-11) bevel one long edge at 23 deg. 2. Rake boards - 2x6s should be cut to length, ends plumb cut, then installed on the front and back gables, meeting at the peak, flush with the top of the trusses, and attached to the gutterboards at the bottom. Note: OSB, 30# felt, and drip edge have already been installed on this shed. Corner and horizontal 1x4 trim can also be seen in this photo. All thats left is shingles, ridge vent, and cap shingles.
Roof Sheathing
Cut a piece of OSB to length. Align the long, horizontal edge with the outer edge of the 2x6 gutter board. Make sure the rafters are square and plumb and nail the OSB in place - use 8d nails, 4 on perimeter and 8 in field. Cut the next piece of OSB to fit - allow a 1 gap at the peak - the gap will be covered by the ridge vent later. Place H clips on the OSB in each truss bay, and install the cut piece of OSB. Make sure the rafters are square and plumb and nail the OSB in place.
Drip Edge - lower horizontal eaves

Install drip edge on the lower, horizontal edges of the roof. Cut drip edge to length with tin snips, and nail app. every foot with roofing nails.
Roof Felt:
Use 30# felt and cap nails. Roll out the felt, aligning it with the lower edge of the drip edge. Nail with cap nails. Roll out the next course; overlap the first course by app. 2 (use the lines on the felt paper as a guide).
Drip Edge - gable ends

Install drip edge on the gable ends, on top of the felt
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Shingles - youll need app. 2 - 3 bundles of shingles

1. Snap a chalk line 11 up from the lower edge of the drip edge - this will allow the shingles to hang over the drip edge by . 2. The starter course is installed first. Starter course shingles are regular shingles with the tabs cut off - you use the solid part. Start by cutting the tabs off 3 shingles. The starter course will consist of a 6 piece and two full (36) shingles. Make sure the shingle overhang front and rear is equal. Refer to Figure 7 for the shingle pattern. Nail the 36 width with 3 galvanized roofing nails. 3. The 1st course shingles are lined up on the chalk line, with tabs down (and overhanging the end of the roof by , aligned with the starter course shingle). The first shingle should be full size, and will be lined up over the partial shingle in the starter course row. Nail with 4 nails - one 1 in from each end and two spaced out in the middle, nailed in the nail line marked on the shingle. Continue laying full size shingles until you reach the edge of the roof; cut 6 off the last shingle. 4. Refer to Figure 7 for the shingle pattern for each course. 5. There will be cap shingles and ridge vent at the peak, so your actual rows of shingles can stop app. 1-2 from the peak. 6. Complete the 2nd side of the roof up to app. 1-2 from the peak. 7. Cap Shingles: The ridge vent will cover the middle 4 of the peak, but youll have to install cap shingles for app. 14 on both ends. Cut each shingle into its 3 tabs, these will be installed sideways as cap shingles. The show part of the tab should be left completely intact, but cut the back at a slight angle so it wont show when installed. Gently bend the cap to fit the peak, then line up the cap with the shingles already installed. Nail with one nail on each side of the peak. Add cap shingles until the desired opening is covered. The nails on the last cap shingle will show; cover these nails with roof tar. 8. Ridge Vent: Position the ridge vent and install it with roofing nails. Then, cover the ridge vent with cap shingles as above. 9. Daub any exposed roofing nails with roof tar.
Door Installation
Attach a strip of drip edge to the siding above the door opening and allow 1 overhang on each end. Remove the weather stripping and the nails securing the door to the frame. Place two strips of luan as spacers on each side of the door opening of the wall. Place the door assembly in the opening and on top of the luan. Using a level, check for plumb on the hinge side and shim as necessary. When plumb and the door is fully flush against the siding, secure with 18 gauge nails at the weather stripping location. Ensure the door is level at the top. Shim the latch side of the door and nail also at the weather stripping location. Remove the door and hinges. Using a countersink, drill for one 3 screw at each hinge location and drive the screws. Replace hinges and weather stripping and door. Install door hardware.
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Trim
The seams on the front and back walls and at all corners are trimmed with 1x4s. Corner trim is overlapped and runs full length from the bottom of the wall to the horizontal trim.
Paint
The trim & fascia should be primed, then painted with Exterior white semigloss. The T-1-11 is painted to match the houses siding color. Ron Rumor has it that all sheds will all be painted white?
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Figure 1 - Front Wall Framing
Figure 2 - Back Wall Framing
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Figure 3 - Side Walls Framing
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Figure 4 - Truss Framing
Figure 5 - Gussets for Trusses
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Figure 6 - T-1-11 Siding
T-1-11:
Front 2 full sheets Back 2 full sheets Sides 1 sheets each Gable Ends 4 roughly triangular pieces; cut to fit. T-1-11 must be installed vertically; small gaps at outside of trusses will be covered with trim.
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Figure 7 - Shed Shingles
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Materials List for Shed

Walls 2x4 Pressure Treated 2x4 Pressure Treated 2x4 - 8 Long 2x4 Precuts 16d nails 2 96 2 65 2 96 22
(includes 1 for door parts)
Trusses (Total for Four Trusses) 2x4 x 10 4 98 2x4 Precuts 8 Scraps of OSB 16d nails 8d nails Construction Adhesive Drywall Screws App. 200
(for rafters & supports) For gussets
Other Materials 4x8 Sheets T-1-11 Siding 8 2 front, 2 back, 1 ea side, 1 for gable ends 4x8 Sheets OSB 2 For roof 30# Roof Felt App. 25 Shingles 3 bundles Drip Edge App. 5 pieces 2x6 Precuts 6 For Gutterboards and Rake Boards (fascia) Ridge Vent 1 section 1x4 x 96 for Trim 10 16d nails 8d nails 8d Galvanized nails for T-1-11 Screws or Nails for anchoring walls to concrete floor (plus tools for installing) 1 Roofing Nails Short Cap Nails 3 Exterior screws Door and Door Hardware Drip Edge for Door (can use a piece of roof drip edge if necessary) H clips (need app. 10) Cedar shims Roof Tar
Tools
4 Level Hammer Drill Clamps Caulk gun
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Shed Construction Process

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Shed Construction Process

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3/02/2009

Shed Construction Overview

Wall Sheathing - T-1-11

Gutterboards and Rake Boards

Drip Edge - lower horizontal eaves

Drip Edge - gable ends

Shingles - youll need app. 2 - 3 bundles of shingles

Figure 1 - Front Wall Framing

Figure 2 - Back Wall Framing

Figure 3 - Side Walls Framing

Figure 4 - Truss Framing

Figure 5 - Gussets for Trusses

Figure 6 - T-1-11 Siding

Figure 7 - Shed Shingles

Materials List for Shed

(includes 1 for door parts)

(for rafters & supports) For gussets

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