Krakow

Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps
KRAKW
August - September 2013
Neglected
Landmarks
Exploring Krakws
abandoned attractions
Obwarzanek!
The history of Krakws
holey dough ring
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
N83
5z (w tym 8% VAT)
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
Find us on
Google Maps
How to reach us:
tramways: 1, 9, 11, 14,
20, 22, 50
direction: Rondo Grzegrzeckie
tramways: 9, 50
direction: Starowilna
buses: 125, 128, 184
direction: Rondo Grzegrzeckie
Opening Hours:
Mon. - Sat.: 10 am - 10 pm
Sun.: 10 am - 8 pm
www.galeriakazimierz.pl
CRACOWS
BEST SHOPPING CENTRE
4
Krakw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Feature
Abandoned Krakw 8
Arrival & Transport 10
The Basics 15
Culture & Events 17
Hotels 26
Restaurants 34
Cafs 62
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 66
Clubs 70
Kazimierz Nightlife 74
History 76
Sightseeing 78
Old Town 80
Wawel 89
Kazimierz 92
Podgrze 97
Jewish Ghetto 100
Salwator 102
Las Wolski 104
Nowa Huta 105
Further Afield
Wieliczka 108
Auschwitz 112
Tyskie 115
Tarnw 116
Leisure 120
Shopping 123
Directory 128
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 131
City Map 132
Nowa Huta Map 134
Street Register 135
Listings Index 136
Features Index 138
Here at Krakw In Your Pocket weve always explored our
city with abandon, and quite often thats meant abandoned
buildings. Amongst the postcard panoramas and face-lifted
facades of Krakws increasingly cosmetic city centre you
can find more than a few forgotten, forlorn or just plain
offensive premises which the city either doesnt know what
to do with, or wishes it could make disappear. In this issue
we explore those very places, what makes them interesting
and worthy of investigation none more so than the Forum
Hotel (pictured), which has recently found a new lease on
life as possibly the hippest bar in town. Now known as
Forum Przestrzenie, read our full bar review, as well as more
info about the building its boarding in on page 8.
Contents
Is it a bagel? Is it a pretzel? Nope, its the obwarzanek
and its something youre obliged to eat as soon as you
enter the city. This traditional doughy ring has been
produced by Krakw bakers for over six centuries,
becoming a proud icon of our fair city in the process. Not
only does it predate the bagel, it provides hundreds of
people (who should probably be retired) with jobs, and
thousands of pigeons with food at the end of the day. We
explain more of its history and significance on page 44.
S UKI E NNI CE
Main Market Square 3
www.restauracjachianti.pl
rezerwacja@restauracjachianti.pl
tel.: 696 475 185
S UKI E NNI CE
www.restauracjawianki.pl
rezerwacja@restauracjawianki.pl
tel.: 696 475 185
6
Krakw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright Notice
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP
Sp. z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket
(Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.
(+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
For the storied city of Krakw and the endless arch of
human history, things seem to have come full circle.
Centuries ago, when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching
from the tip of the Baltics to deep in the Carpathians (yes,
this time really existed), Krakw was its cosmopolitan
capital and one of the leading economic and intellectual
centres of the world. Fast forward a few hundred years,
skipping past several partitions, invasions, occupations
and other disasters (more about those in our History
section, p.76), and Krakw has once again achieved its
rightful position at the forefront of international Polish
prestige. While Warsaw may remain the capital (who let
that happen?), Krakw which avoided destruction during
WWII by the sheer force of her charm - is the face that
Poland turns to the rest of the world. When the weather is
warm they all come flocking to enjoy everything this high-
class dame has to offer, including the most voluptuous
market square in Europe (p.82), an ancient and enchanting
riverside castle (p.89), and an atmospheric and bohemian
former Jewish district (p.92), to name just a few. As you
find yourself in the midst of it all you can expect not only
your camera, but also your liver to get a rigorous workout
once you start falling into the highest density of drinking
holes in the world (p.66). And while tourists, temperatures
and hemlines are all at their seasonal high points, there
are still plenty of ways to get off the beaten track, which
youll discover is the main focus of this issues feature on
page 8.
For the cool-headed crowd at Krakw In Your Pocket,
however, its another two months like the two that came
before: the same mad, sleepless rush to meet our
publication deadline, sure, but also the familiar afterglow
of having created our best edition yet. Weve been refining
this little tome for well over a decade now, and just like the
city it covers, it keeps getting better. What you hold in your
hands is bar none the best, most informative and up-to-
date guide to Krakw on the market. So take advantage,
do your homework, and dont let it just lie about. Keep this
guide close to your vest as you tour the city, or if youre
feeling really randy, go ahead and put it in your pocket.
As always, we appreciate your comments on our website
krakow.inyourpocket.com, or send us some old-fashioned
feedback via editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.
Keep enjoying Krakw.
Editorial
Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed
Research Manager Maria Rulaff
Researchers Maria Rulaff, Oli wia Hojan,
Sandra Wilczewska
Events Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak
Photography In Your Pocket, Pawe Krzan
Cover Garrett Van Reed
Sales & Circulation
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/d Manager
Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
Wrocaw/Pozna Manager
Agata Trocha 606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager
Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager
Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant
Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
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right to say whatever the hell they damn well please about
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responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service,
disappointing food or terrible hangovers.
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August - September 2013 krakow.inyourpocket.com
8
Krakw In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
ABANDONED KRAKW ABANDONED KRAKW
Krakows on-going campaign to perfectly repaint every
townhouse, re-cobble every street and renovate every
square is going swimmingly these days, with more tourists
than ever leaving town with all of their photos looking like
store-bought postcards, and the impression that the city
must be made out of marzipan. Surely, thats the intention,
and if you arent looking closely, thats exactly what youll
see. Of course there are some things so monstrous, you
simply cant pull the wool over them or sweep them under
the rug, and Krakw has its share of those as well. Fans of
communist architectural genius will have an absolute field day
in socialist realist suburb of Nowa Huta, but even here in the
centre there are a few stains that city council just cant seem
to rub out or get rid of. Below we list the most interesting
abandoned oddities around the city centre for those whove
had enough of perfectly-presented views and simply cant
help poking around places where they probably shouldnt.
Employ caution, common sense and enjoy.
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving fortress
of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th century to
protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww, Fort Benedict
is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion Tower type
left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery tower
in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with a round interior
yard, the fort has a total surface area of 1500 square metres.
Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name
from nearby St. Benedicts church. The fortress quickly lost
its usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as
Austrian military barracks and was even converted into apart-
ments in the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction,
filled with abandonned furniture and building materials. After
numerous projects involving the fort failed to develop, care of
Fort Benedict has recently been transferred back to the city
of Krakw, with plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At
the moment, however, it remains impenetrable to tourists,
adding to the scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most
surprising and strange corners.
Forum Hotel I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28. Described
in the first issue of Krakow In Your Pocket back in 1999
as a legacy of the era of Soviet hospitality, youll know why
when you visit. Essentially looking like a cinder block set on
top of some Lincoln Logs, construction on this beauty began
in 1978 and despite the ribbon cutting not taking place until
11 years later, it was still considered one of the most futuristic
buildings in Krakow. Awarded four stars, the hotel featured
perks unknown in 80s Krakow: air-conditioned rooms, an
outdoor electronic clock with temperature displays, swim-
ming pool, mini golf and casino. Having passed from the Orbis
brand to the Sofitel in 2001 the hotel was closed at the end
of 2002, apparently because of a construction fault that
led to frequent flooding of the basements. Today the vacant
building is owned by the Wawel-Imos group, and though its
future is uncertain it presently makes a handsome living as
Polands longest billboard, while lending its former reception
area to one of Krakws trendiest bars (Forum Przestrzenie),
and its parking lot to a go-cart track.
Szkieletor (NOT Tower) K-2, Rondo Mogilskie. Rising
high over Rondo Mogilskie (K-2) is one of Krakws biggest
blemishes and its most overt reminder of the follies of com-
munism. Officially named NOT Tower, but known locally as
Szkieletor (from the Polish word for skeleton, not the He-Man
villain Skeletor as has been widely promulgated), this 22
storey bare beams structure ranks as the tallest building
in the city, standing unfinished and unoccupied for over a
quarter century. Originally designed in 1968 to serve as a
congress hall and office block, work began in 1975 with local
authorities pressuring architects to make it as tall as pos-
sible. Another eight floors were hastily added to the original
blueprint, with a TV studio, hotel and panoramic terrace all
part of the master plan. Alas, Polands economic crisis hit
soon after and all work on it was abandoned in 1979, never
to be resumed. Today the 91 metre monster stands fenced
off from the public, a ghostly reminder of the golden dawn
promised by the nations leaders. Over the years shoddy
construction work has made the tower a crumbling death
trap, and despite ownership changing hands numerous
times, no one has taken on the expense of doing anything
more with it than making it available for some of the largest
advertisements youll ever see anywhere.
Zakrzwek G-5. This fantastic reservoir just beyond
the ci ty centre was serendipi tousl y created when the
l i mestone quarry operati ng here acci dental l y pi erced
the water table. Though officially prohibited and the site
of frequent acci dents, the irresistibl e blue, seemingl y
bottomless water is immensely popular with locals for
swimming and cli ff diving in summer. I f you want to get
in on the action we recommend you do so through the
scuba diving school that operates here; the depth varies
from 7-21m (23-69ft) and the bottom is cluttered with all
kinds of things that shouldnt be there: several vehicles
and sunken boats, as well as the former changing rooms
of the quarry workers. The surrounding limestone bluffs
and woods are an additional attraction - a favoured place
for summer barbecues, ideal for hiking and a favourite for
local rock-climbers, whose anchors you may notice stick-
ing out of the cli ff faces. The area is also the fabled former
stomping ground of Krakws legendary alchemist and
occultist Pan Twardowski, who purportedly had his work-
shop in one of the caves. Nearby, intrepid adventurers will
also discover access to large, abandoned and very creepy
Austrian bunkers carved in the cli ffs. A great place to go
exploring, the nearest transport stop is Norymberska;
take the tram or bus 194 to get there.
Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepi-
est, most forgotten places in Krakw, the Liban Quarry
should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for
the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here
during Krakws WWII occupation. That said, the sight lies
in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming a nature
sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and
other various creatures (weve even seen an unattended
horse grazing here) as the city seems to have forgotten it
completely. Incredible limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of
barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis, run by
two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgrze,
established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th
century a complex of buildings was established within
the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed
an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However,
during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel
penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner
from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small,
discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for
21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp
lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. Not wanting to use the
nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must
have taken little imagination on his part to settle upon
Liban. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were
set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was
subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly
mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war,
making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel
as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones, which we can put you at ease
by assuring you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, Liban allows you to ex-
plore Krakws World War II history on your own terms,
interpreting it as you like without the hand-holding of
history books or tourist bureaus. Enter the quarry at
your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound
toward Podgrze Cemetery along the rim of and into
the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though
there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry, city
employees of the Housing Office buildings at the quarrys
entrance have been known to aggravatedly deny entry
or ask people to leave.
Liban Quarry
Allie_Caulfield
Forum Przestrzenie I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
28, tel. (+48) 888 71 59 05. Opening in the formerly
abandoned, monstrous and much-maligned Soviet-era
Forum Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie immediately vaults
itsel f to the top of the list of Krakws most original,
intriguing and hip locales, without even really trying (not
caring is the key to being cool after all). The owners have
simply added dozens of beach chairs, bean bags, retro
sofas and a bit of graffiti art to the original interiors and
vintage neon signs of the reception area, assembled a
competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads
and pizzas, stocked the bar with good beer, and watched
the talented, tattooed post-college crowd (hipsters you
might call them) turn the vast riverside patio into the
trendiest place to be day or night. With great views of
Wawel and Skaka, DJ nights, outdoor cinema evenings
and other events, hundreds of deck chairs and still plenty
of space to spare, the Forum is basically the best beer
garden, if not the best bar, in town now. We might as well
quit our job and camp out there. Our work is done.QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. (15-25z). TA6UEGBSW
Forum Przestrzenie
Logofag/www.flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0
Jakub Haun/Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 2.5
10
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
the motorway. Still, its one of the best stretches of road in
the country until the bottleneck begins outside Krakw near
Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incredibly frustrating
with constant roadwork being done, one-way streets and
seemingl y available streets requiring a permit to drive
down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine
are incredibly high, whether youve realised your infraction
or not. Krakws road network is not at all adequate for
the volume of cars on its roads and parking is yet another
challenge. To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full
of tourists and trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city
centre also means sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles
above the laws of the road, and the fact that theyre getting
from point A to B twice as fast as you is yet another smack
in the face. Put it all together and we recommend you ditch
your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the first
opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and youll be safest
leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed
below. Street parking is available under the large parking
signs on the sidewalk and youll have to buy a pass from
the neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, though park-
ing machines have now replaced them in many areas. The
cost of street parking is 3z for the first hour, 3.50z for the
second, 4.10 for the third, and after that back to 3z. Areas
where parking is available are also marked on the map in
the back of this guide.
By Plane
Krakw Airport ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel.
(+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. Some
17km west of the ci ty centre, Krakw Airport is small,
modern and easy to navi gate, though ameni ti es are
limi ted. Consisting of two small terminals, the domesti c
terminal of fers li ttl e more than a pri cey cafe, newsstand
and ATM (bankomat), whereas in the international ter-
minal youll find currency exchange, ATMs (bankomat), a
cafe, restaurant, tourist information point (open 09:00
- 19:00), and 24hr l ockers (9z). Getting through check-
in and securi ty is a snap, the onl y hassl e of the airport
being that you have to walk around i ts entire perimeter
to get from one terminal to the other (great desi gn j ob
there, boys).
The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town,
and vice versa, is generally by train. A free shuttle bus
runs regularl y between the international and domestic
terminals, picking passengers up directly outside the en-
trance and taking them the short distance to the Krakw
Airport train stop (coordinated with the train times). Train
tickets are purchased from the conductor on board the
train, and now cost 12 z one way. I f leaving from Krakw
Gowny train station, departures (odjazdy) to the Airport
are frequent from Track 1; buy your ticket from machines
on the platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains from
the airport run frequently between 06:00 and 23:00 with
a journey time of about 15-20mins.
Publ i c bus numbers 292 and 208 al so depar t from
besi de the I nternati onal termi nal entrance. Thi s i s a
much cheaper opti on, though the j ourney to the trai n
station takes about 35-40mins. Ni ght bus 902 makes
the same trip wi th departures at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21,
02:21, 03:21 and 03:55.
The airport now also has its own trusted Krakow Airport Taxi
service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances.
The advantages are a set price of 69z from the airport to
the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time
price hikes. Solid.
By Bus
Krakw Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.kra-
kow.pl. International buses arrive and depart from the bus
terminal (Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind
the train station. Here youll find a 24-hour toilet, snack bar,
restaurant, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and
information point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left lug-
gage cost 6-14z (depending on size) for 24 hours, however
are unavailable when the main hall is closed between 22:00
and 06:00. During this time there is a separate night time
waiting room.
Tunnels connect the bus and train stations. Still the best
way to get into town, with or without getting lost, is to make
a right from the bus station into the train station tunnel,
walk past the platforms and follow the stairs or ramp to
the left back into daylight (beware of getting sucked into
the shopping mall). Cut through the main ticket hall of the
train station, cross the square in front of Galeria Krakowska
and take the underpass into the Planty. Congrats, youre
in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level
with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus
station. For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl
which is now in English.
Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some des-
tinations like Wieliczka and Niepoomice. Many mini-buses
leave from the lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the
corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2), a short walk from
the main bus station. Q Ticket Office open 07:00 - 19:45.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traf-
fic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the
common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While
the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with EU direc-
tives and funding, the countrys clueless drivers are a trickier
fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from
the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur-
ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your licence and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time be-
ing theres only one major highway leading into Krakw via
Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesnt come free.
An 9z toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Krakw In Your Pocket August - September 2013 krakow.inyourpocket.com krakow.inyourpocket.com
Car Rental
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally
drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the
police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from bor-
rowing their girlfriends car, or renting one for that matter).
Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a rental car;
ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Eu r o p ca r J - 4, u l .
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories of
car available for your individual needs. Excellence in
service with benefits tailored to your specific require-
ments. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including
Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.
J o k a D - 2 , u l .
Zaci s z e 7 (3r d
floor, room 7), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53 68,
www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars including Audis,
BMWs, Kias and Subarus up to the spacious Mercedes
E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power
steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka
website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. Outside of these hours on request.
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23,
tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02,
www.avis.pl. I nternati on-
ally trusted service offering a
range a vehicles from the Nissan Micra to luxury mini-
vans. Located here near the train station and also at the
airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00).
Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
By Train
Main Train Station (Dworzec Gwny) E-1, Pl.
Jana Nowaka - Jezioraskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19
757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.
pl. Krakws main railway station, Dworzec Gwny, is
conveniently situated at the northern edge of the Old Town,
making taxis and trams largely unnecessary for those with
accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient are the
ongoing renovation works - part of a plan to transfer the
railway station completely underground and transform it into
a modern transportation hub incorporating the bus station
as well. To date, all of the platforms have been modernised
and are open, however work on other areas of the station,
including one of the tunnels, are ongoing. Travellers should
anticipate some minor confusion and inconvenience until all
the work is finished, which from what we hear should take
place in the last quarter of this year.
Upon disembarking your train, youll be herded underground
into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads straight into
the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up
the stairs before the entrance to avoid getting lost in the mall.
With no facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path
alongside the tracks to the original main hall where youll find
an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor), and
left luggage lockers.
Stepping out onto the square in front of the train stations
main hall youll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus
and tram stop ahead and to the left (on ul. Lubicz) and a taxi
rank straight ahead on ul. Pawia. It is less than a ten minute
walk to Rynek Gwny (the market square) from the train sta-
tion, arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe
and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived.
Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels
Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to the
other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the
majority of Krakws hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right,
make a left on Floriaska Street and youre on the path of
kings to the market square. Youve arrived.
Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy)
are indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards
(przyjazdy) are the white ones. Check the timetables online
at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has
limited but effective English language functionality. If you
want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If
in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from
the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that tickets for
the shuttle service to Krakw Balice airport, which runs every
30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform
1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.]
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
of train, which basically determine the length of the journey,
its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) and Express
(EX) trains are the fastest and most expensive, giving you an
assigned seat for the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains offer
international connections and require the paid premium for
seat reservation as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs
should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe
(TLK), which offer second class compartments free of reser-
vation fees (though you may end up sitting in the aisle), and
InterREGIO (IR) trains which have no seat reservation fees.
With these budget options you pay less, but the journey will
take longer and may try your good humour with the potential
for overcrowding and being forced to sit of stand in the aisle.
Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat
reservations cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:00.
The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on
to design Wrocaws immaculate station ten years later
- the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with
neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenella-
tions whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the govern-
ment quarter located across the river in Dbniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king
and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their
grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building,
lovingly referred to by locals as Szkieletor. The years
since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Krakws
train station any peace either, however the changes
have largely been met positively as the area received
a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new
plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now
represent Krakws main gateway into the city.
Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment
to create a brand new transportation hub connecting
the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services
underground, Krakws train station is set to receive
a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as
new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger
service points such as tourist information. The new
transportation hub will be fully accessible to the dis-
abled and is expected to be done by the end of this year,
but were not holding our breath. In the meantime, only
one of the platform access tunnels is open (so expect
some confusion and congestion) and the old station
building appears to be headed towards redundancy
and the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical
building need not fret just yet. The local government
is in talks to take over the classic Rosenbaum building
from the train company and convert it into a gallery.
Heres hoping its put to good use.
Station History
Wikipedia/Axe
Cracow Car Rental: It's faster than horse and buggy, but
can't get you to all the same places.
15
BASICS
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are
reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around,
but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside
the train station and some clubs. Make sure you choose
a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone
number displayed and a sticker demarcating prices in the
window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed
receipt at journeys end further limiting the likelihood of
any funny business. There is a taxi rank across the square
from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up the
stairs from the platforms to find reliable Radio Taxi 919 on
the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay 7z plus about 2.30z
per kilometre. At night expect to pay up to 50% more for
the pleasure. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit
of a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a
service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if youre Polish,
the driver may not expect one. But double standards being
what they are, its anticipated that foreigners will leave a
tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding
up the bill. We leave it to you.
Barbakan Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 61,
www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
Mega Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 25,
www.megataxi.eu.
Nova Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 69, www.taxinova.pl.
Radio Taxi 919, tel. (+48) 12 191 91,
www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Taxis
9
8
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer. Most
countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland.
If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their age and
value. In order to leave the country, art must be both less than
50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending by
type; photos 6,000z, other art 16,000z, for example); if these
conditions are met, the gallery curator then can (and should)
provide you with a zawiadczenie (permission document)
describing the artworks price and when and where it was cre-
ated. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value, you must
get permission from the Wojewdzki Konserwator Zabytkw
(Regional Curators Office) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind
that this process will likely take 2-3 months. Books must be less
than 100 years old and under 6,000z in value in order to leave
the country; otherwise, permission must be obtained from the
National Library. Obviously, problems arise when purchases are
made at bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide
the necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value
or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat
(antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore i f you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home
though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with
your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an
electrical store if they cant provide a converter themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in
distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77.
Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land
line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during
your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours
during the high-tourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be
found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can
also be found in the Directory. If its a financial emergency your
hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every caf and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with
a simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu? If you dont have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Dietla 69, tel. (+48) 12 397
80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Six PCs complete with ev-
erything you need to keep in touch, plus printing and postal
services. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Computer use 5z/hr.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wilna 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26, www.
nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5z for first
hour, 4z per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning available.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2012)
Poland: 38,533,299
Warsaw: 1,715,517
Krakw: 758,334
d: 718,960
Wrocaw: 631,188
Pozna: 550,742
Gdask: 460,427
Katowice: 307,233
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece of
plastic that allows you free travel
on trams and buses, day and
night. The best bit is free entry
to over 30 Krakw museums - an impressive savings for
the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are avail-
able, priced at 60z and 80z respectively and they are
valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse.
Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Krakw
Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol.
Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list
of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
Tourist Card
Public Transport
Whil e Krakow has no un-
derground metro system
it does have an integrated
bus and tram system which
runs from 05:00-23:00,
with night buses continuing
less frequently after that.
Get tickets from the handy
ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board
most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on
boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket
machines on board trams and buses do not accept bills, so
it is important to have some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the
alloted time. A standard fare is good for 20mins at a cost
of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it should
take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic. If youre going a
longer distance outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example),
we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80z.
1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend
family passes for 16.00z are also options, or consider the
Krakw Tourist Card (see Basics), which includes unlimited
free travel on trams and buses amongst its benefits. Note
that ISIC and Euro26 Student cards are valid for transport
ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately
on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board,
even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that sneaky
plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel on the lines hand-
ing out costly fines to those without valid or proper tickets.
MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. w. Wawrzyca
13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.krakow.pl. Use this
website to find local bus schedules.
17
CULTURE & EVENTS
16
BASICS
Law & Order
In general Krakw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems i f they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travel-
lers should be on guard against pickpockets; i f youre in
a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use the guarded car parks
we list in Arrival & Transport. Perhaps the biggest danger
in Krakw is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans
who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away.
Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women
who take an overactive interest in them and suggest go-
ing to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they
stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly
inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately,
it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is signi ficantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. I f youre determined
to make an idiot of yoursel f then make sure its not in
front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of
geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to com-
plete prats whove thought it perfectly acceptable to drop
their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have
tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now
decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to Krakws premier drunk tank
on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as Entertain-
ment Street), where you can expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not
accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport,
Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you
are from a country which doesnt have or respect jaywalking
laws, youll be surprised to see crowds of people standing
obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The
reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city
police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine
for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or
a 100z fine when the walk light is red. And dont think you
are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to
the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to
pay the fine on the spot.
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of July 15, 2013
based on 1 = 4.26z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 8.60 z 2.02
Snickers 1.59 z 0.37
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 z 5.40
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.39 z 0.80
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.11
Loaf of white bread 2.39 z 0.56
20 Marlboros 13.60 z 3.19
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.64 z 1.32
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 z 0.89
Market Values
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have forgotten the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Krakw and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation:
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Prosz (Prosheh)
Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)
Im from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak
English?
Czy mwisz po
angielsku?
(Che moo-veesh po
an-gyel-skoo?)
I dont speak
Polish.
Nie mwi po
polsku.
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po
pol-skoo.)
I dont understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beauti ful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham ci. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me
home.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh
mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)
Language Smarts Art Galleries
As Gallery C-3, ul. w. Marka 22, tel. (+48) 12 423 80
22, www.asgallery.pl.QOpen 11:30 - 18:30, Sat 11:30 -
15:00. Mon, Sun open by prior arrangement only; call 609
84 58 41. Admission free.
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z.
International Cultural Centre (Midzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. From September 4 open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Closed between August 12 - September 3. Admis-
sion 10/6z. From September admission 8/5z.
Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-2, ul. Sawkowska 14, tel. (+48)
12 429 15 53, www.fejkielgallery.com.QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriaska
18/5 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www.galeria-
pauza.pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Polonia House (Wsplnota Polska) C-3, Rynek Gwny
14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow.pl.QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal-
lery.com.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Space Gallery B-2, ul. w. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 432
29 20, www.spacegallery.com.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Cinemas
ARS Cinema C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12
421 41 99, www.ars.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 12-20z.
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox of-
fice open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets 16-32z.
Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12
290 90 90, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the
last showtime. Tickets 14-30z.
IMAX Krakw L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90
90, www.kinoimax.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes before
the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime.
Tickets 18-30z.
Kijw.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12
433 00 33, www.kijow.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes be-
fore the first showtime until the last showtime. Tickets 12-25z.
Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12 430
01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes
before the first showtime until the last showtime. Tickets 10-18z.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office
open 45 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes
after the last showtime. Tickets 7-22z.
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel. (+48)
12 421 32 55, cracovia.cervantes.es.QOpen 09:00 -
17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From September
open 09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Library open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30
- 13:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat
of the month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.
de/krakau.Q Open from August 19, 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open from Sep-
tember 11:00 - 16:00; Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00. Closed
Fri, Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Spoecznoci
ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org. Q Open 10:00
- 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation (Fundacja Judaica) D-6, ul.
Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. From September open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z, Tue
free. Guided tours 100z.
City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who
can tell you whats going on and who can sell you tickets
as well. Also the publishers of Karnet, a comprehensive
monthly listing of cultural events in Polish and English.
Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Information & Tickets
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
10.08 Saturday
Coke Live Music Festival: Florence and The
Machine
Airfield - Aviation Museum, Al. Jana Pawa II 39
(Czyyny), www.livefestival.pl. Florence and The Ma-
chine are actually both people. Florence is Florence Welch,
a 26-year-old musician and singer-songwriter from Cam-
berwell, and The Machine is Isabella Summers, an equally
skilled artist/producer from Hackney. Together they form an
indie rock band that has released two studio albums, won
two Brit Awards, and been nominated for three Grammies.
Q One-day ticket 155z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
01.09 Sunday
Emilie Autumn
Kwadrat Club, ul. Skaryskiego 1 (Nowa Huta), www.
emilieautumn.com. Emilie Autumn is a multi-talented gal -
she sings, dances, plays the violin, and writes poetry, and her
shows usually include elements of theatre, while her music is
a mixture of classical, electronic, and rock. She has collabo-
rated with artists such as Courtney Love and Billy Corgan of
The Smashing Pumpkins, and is currently on tour in Europe
to promote her newest album Fight Like a Girl. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 65-75z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
19.09 Thursday
August Burns Red
Kwadrat Club, Skaryskiego 1 (Nowa Huta), www.au-
gustburnsred.com. Metalcore (and Christian) band August
Burns Red was formed in 2003 in Lancaster, PA, and released
six albums to date. The name was apparently chosen at
random, which didnt prevent the members from circulating
numerous fanciful stories about its origins; according to the
most popular version, the lead vocalists girlfriend August
burned her dog Redd alive in his dog house. Well, were glad
that story isnt true. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 65-
75z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek Gwny
5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
19.09 Thursday
The Doors Alive
Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza), www.eventim.
pl. The Doors Alive are - as you might expect - a tribute band
(and apparently a good one at that). They use original seven-
ties instruments to create the most authentic sound, and
the vocalists emulation of Jim Morrison is believable enough
to say that this is the closest you can come to listening to
the legendary band live. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
79z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek Gwny
5, C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
Exhibitions
18.04 Thursday - 15.09 Sunday
Collected Works of Jan Matejko
D-3, Jan Matejko House, ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48)
12 433 59 60, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Jan Matejko is
one of those names you should probably know if youre an
art buff or interested in Polish culture or history, and should
definitely know if you happen to be both. The great Polish
painter is celebrating 120th death-day this year, and he
should be pleased with the plethora of events the National
Museum in Krakw is organising for the occasion, including
this exhibition of all sorts of items the prolific artist liked to
collect in his free time. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4z.
Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda) H-3, ul. Olean-
dry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl.Q Box
office open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Closed in August. Tickets depending on repertoire.
Opera Stages
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.
pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the
performance. Note that the Opera takes a summer break
until September 10. Tickets 15-200z.
Philharmonic Stages
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Note that the Philharmonic takes a summer break
until September 19. Tickets 15-50z.
Theatre Stages
Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) C-3, ul. Jagielloska 1,
tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.pl. Q Box office
open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and 2 hours before the
spectacle. Closed Mon. Note that the Theatre takes a
summer break until September 24. Tickets 15-50z. Y
Teatr Nowy (New Theatre) E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel.
(+48) 12 426 45 06, www.teatrnowy.com.pl. Q Box
office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 2 hours before the
spectacle. Closed Mon. Note that the Theatre takes a
summer break until September. Tickets 30-40z.
Concerts
06.08 Tuesday
Gojira
Kwadrat Club, ul. Skaryskiego 1 (Nowa Huta), www.
gojira-music.com. Gojira is a French progressive death-metal
band formed in 1996 in Ondres. They have released five studio
albums so far, with the most recent one being the 2012 album
<i style= line-height: 19.200000762939453px;>LEnfant
Sauvage (The Wild Child), inspired by a faux documentary
of the same name; the new tracks go along well with their
usual environmental theme for lyrics (is that a bit surprising for
death metal?). Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-90z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3,
open 09:00 - 22:00).

BIG SUCCESS! EXTENDED TILL 31. 10.
WWW. HUMAN-BODY. PL
12. 3. 31. 10.
KRAKW
FABRYKA, ZABOCIE 23
12.03 Tuesday - 31.10 Saturday
The Human Body
K-4, Fabryka Club, ul. Zabocie 23, www.human-
body.pl. Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre:
exhibits featuring preserved human bodies have been
increasingly popular in recent years. If youre not too
faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the
beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Human
Body Exhibition will be showcasing over 200 thematically
organized organs and bodies. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Admission 50z during the week, 60z on weekends; dis-
counts for students, seniors, children, and the disabled.
Available at www.eventim.pl and the venue.
The Human Body
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
Economics in Art
K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. This is MOCAKs
third exhibition in a series connecting art to other areas of
life: the previous two were Sport in Art and History in Art.
As it turns out, economics, and the recent world economic
crisis, have been a huge inspiration for many contemporary
artists - enough to make an exhibition with diverse works by
well over thirty individuals (including Banksy!). The themes
will be value, ethics, humanist aspects of economics, and
arts dependence on market forces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
10/5z, Tue free.
Spokojna Tour Now - Opening of Re Gallery
K- 4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. MOCAK already
has two galleries: Alpha and Beta, and now theyre opening a
third. Re Gallery will be a space for art students (both Polish
and international) to showcase their talent and make an
early mark on the art world. The gallery opening will feature
a concert by students of the Spacial Activities Studio at the
Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. The 26-strong orches-
tra led by Mirosaw Baka will perform a piece prepared
speci fically for the inauguration. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admis-
sion 10/5z, Tue free.
15.08 Thursday - 31.08 Saturday
Music in Old Cracow
Event takes place in various locations., tel. (+48)
12 341 44 39, www.mwsk.eu. Music in Old Cracow
is a festival dating back to 1976, long enough to qualify
it as one of the oldest festivals in Poland. The main goal
is to commemorate prominent composers who worked
and/or gave concerts here (sadly, not many of these are
homegrown): H. Finck, L. Marenzio, G. Palestrina, D. Cato,
G. Ph. Telemann, J. S. Bach, Liszt, Brahms, Paderewski,
Rubinstein... The festival also aims to present distin-
guished soloists and ensembles from Poland (especially
Krakw) and promote talented youths. The venues are
all beauti ful and historic, with concerts taking place
in churches, synagogues, courtyards, and museums.
Notable performances (there are many more):
Thursday, August 15, 20:30
The Augustinian Church, ul. Augustiaska 7
OPENING CONCERT
Collegium Zieleski will perform Claudio Monteverdis
Vespro Della Beata Vergine.
Friday, August 16, 19:30
The Polish Academy of Arts and Sciences, ul. Sawkowska 17
Trio A Piacere: Johannes Brahms, Dmitri Shostakovich,
Astor Piazzolla
Saturday, August 17, 19:00
Collegium Maius, ul. Jagielloska 15 (or, in case of bad
weather, The Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24, 20:00)
Berliner Philharmonisches Blserensemble: Hndel,
Bach, Langford, Dowland, Richards, Elgar, Rossini, Miller
Sunday, August 18, 20:15
The Franciscan Basilica, ul. Franciszkaska
Tebe Payom (Krasnoyarsk): Rachmaninoffs All-Night
Vigil Op. 37
Monday, August 19, 20:00
The Basilica of the Pauline Fathers (Skaka),
ul. Skaeczna 15
The Royal Rorantists: Polish renaissance
and baroque music
Friday, August 23, 20:30
The Dominican Basilica, pl. Domaski
Byzantion: music of the Byzantine-rite churches
Sunday, August 25th, 18:30
The Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Alchemy Trio: Jewish Music
Tuesday, August 27th, 19:30
The Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Karolina Nadolska (piano): Paderewski, Chopin
Friday, August 30th, 20:00
The Gallery in Sukiennice, Main Square
Elbieta Stefaska (harpsichord), Rafael Puyana In
Memoriam: Muffat, dAnglebert, Duphly, Hndel, Bach,
Mozart, Soler
QTickets 15-45z. Available at Festival Box Office, ul.
Zwierzyniecka 1 (B-4, Philharmonic Hall, open 13:00 -
18:00), City Information Points or 1 hour before concerts.
Music in Old Cracow
01.08 Thursday - 30.09 Monday
Chopin Concerts at the Bonerowski Palace
C-3, Bonerowski Palace, ul. w. Jana 1, tel. (+48)
604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com. Enjoy the
music of Polands greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin,
as performed by pianists Witold Wilczek, Weronika
Krwka, Dobrchna Krwka, Kazuko Tsuji and others.
Concerts are every day and a glass of wine is included
in the price. Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 55z.
Available before the concerts.
Classical, Opera, Film & Tango: The Best
Concerts in Cracow
C-3, St. Adalberts Church, Rynek Gwny, tel.
(+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com.
The Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstand-
ing musicians, many Krakow Academy of Music alumni.
St Adalberts is said to be the oldest church in Krakow
and, thanks to i ts baroque dome, provides unique
acoustics. Concerts are every day. Q Concerts start
at 19:00. Tickets 65z. Available from 10:00 in front
of the church.
Folk Show
D- 2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriaska 45, tel.
(+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.com.
This famous secessionist cafe is a great place to
encounter Polish folk culture during these 90-minute
performances taking place on Wednesdays, Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays. Enjoy traditional Polish food
while being entertained by a local orchestra, folk danc-
ers, and the legendary Lajkonik himsel f. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 85z. Available at Jama Michalika
everyday from 09:00.
Klezmer Music
tel. (+48) 604 09 35 70, www.cracowconcerts.
com. Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by local
virtuosos on Tuesdays and Thursdays in Hotel Rubinstein
(ul. Szeroka 12, E-6) and Saturdays at the Galicia Jewish
Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6). Q Concerts start at 19:00.
Tickets 50z. Available before the concerts.
Live Music - Cracow Concerts
Main Market Square
EVERY DAY 7:00 PM
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
26.06 Wednesday - 29.09 Sunday
Temptress
K- 4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. This solo exhibit
by Charlotte Beaudry examines feminine accessories, the
tools of seduction, and free-associates them with things
like the Venus flytrap. The entire exhibition comprises a
dozen plus sculptures, video works, and paintings, most
of which show ornaments such as tiaras, bouquets, and
brightl y polished nails taken out of context, presented
against a neutral background. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admis-
sion 10/5z. Tue free.
26.06 Wednesday - 29.09 Sunday
Territory
K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Territory is an
exhibition of works by Piotr Lutyski, a Tychy-born artist
whose art can be found in the collections of the National
Museum in Krakw, Foksal Gallery, and Galeria Muzalewska.
He combines abstract painting with natural elements (such
as hunting trophies); expect a lot of antlers and mounted
animal heads. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5z. Tue free.
13.07 Saturday - 29.09 Sunday
Matta. Man and Universe
H-3, National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433
55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Matta was one of the
last great surrealists, an artist who influenced American
abstract expressionism as well as post-war art in Poland. His
works have been recently displayed at MoMA, the Pompidou
Centre in Paris, and other prominent institutions; now theyre
coming to Krakw to continue a series of exhibitions on the
most important 20th century artists (previous ones included
Warhol, Chagall, Dali, Turner, and Rodchenko). Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
13/8z, family ticket 19z.
Classic Moto Show
E-7, City Engineering Museum, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15,
tel. (+48) 12 421 12 42, www.classicmotoshow.pl.
Classic car shows are a favorite for many people, and if youre
one of them, dont skip out on this one; youll have the op-
portunity to see many Polish and Eastern European vehicles
you wont see elsewhere. The exposition will be divided into
the following sections: Polish legends, cars of the Democratic
Peoples Republics, American dreams, legendary masters,
unassuming and unfailing, first automobiles, historic motor-
cycles. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00; Tue, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Ticket prices undecided at the moment.
Festivals
06.07 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday
Wawel at dusk
B-5, Wawel Hill. As far as concert venues go, the Wawel
Castle is as prestigious and atmospheric as you can get in
Krakw - and what better time than a warm summer dusk to
enjoy beautiful music? This year, youll have the opportunity to
listen to concertos by Grecki and Lutosawski (its the com-
posers 100th anniversary, too!), Piazzollas tangos, works by
Passculli, Brahms, Mendelssohn, Ysae, and Penderecki. A
classical music lovers feast to be sure. Q Tickets 40/25z.
Available at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open
09:00 - 19:00) and before the concert.
Krakw Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera
Kameralna) E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430
66 06, www.kok.art.pl. The beginnings of the Krakw
Chamber Opera can be traced back to 1991 although
it didnt find a permanent place it could call home until
2000 during which time they appeared around Poland
and the world as guest performers. They have been
described by poorly translated critics as probably the
most aesthetic and sophisticated theatre team in Poland
which appreciates good tone of music, costume and
vividness. Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-100z.
03.08 Saturday
Antonio Vivaldi/Giovanni Battista
Pergolesi Stabat Mater
C-5, Koci XX. Misjonarzy, ul. Stradomska 4, tel.
(+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. Stabat Mater
is a 13th-century Christian hymn that has been set to
music by many great composers over the centuries -
including Haydn, Rossini, Dvok, and - yes - Vivaldi and
Pergolesi, the two big stars of this night. The show also in-
cludes acting, period costumes, and lovely scenography.
Q Event starts at 20:00. Tickets 40-100z. Available at
Krakw Chamber Opera box office (open 10:00 - 18:00;
Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
04.08 Sunday, 11.08 Sunday, 18.08 Sunday,
23.08 Friday
Chatskele, Chatskele!
Despite taking place at the Opera, this event is more of a
musical evening presenting old Yiddish folk songs in new,
original arrangements. The range of the repertoire will be
vast, including love songs, pop songs, wedding songs, reli-
gious songs, lullabies and more. Q Event starts at 19:00.
Tickets 40-80z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera box
office (open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
10.08 Saturday
Giovanni Battista Pergolesi
- La Serva Padrona
La Serva Padrona, known in English as The Servant
Turned Mistress, is Peroglesis most famous work. This
is a humorous tale of an elderly bachelor terrorised by his
female servant. When he decides to get married in hopes
that his future wife will restore order in the house, the canny
woman tricks him into marrying her, turning from servant
into mistress. At only 45 minutes long, this opera buffa
was originally performed as an intermezzo between the
acts of a longer opera. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets
50-100z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera box office
(open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
Krakw Chamber Opera
Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wierzynek
Restaurant C-3, Wierzynek, Rynek Gwny 16, tel.
(+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. These
special events run throughout the year. They are recitals
by gifted members of the Krakw Music Academy, many
of whom are laureates from international piano contests.
The programme is as varied as you like, approaching the
great mans work from a number of perspectives. A must
for all fans. Q Concerts take place everyday at 19:00.
Tickets 60/40z, VIP 220z. Available at City Information
Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) as well as
at the Wierzynek reception desk (open 24hrs).
Classical and Film Music at St. Peter & Pauls
Church C-4, St. Peter & Pauls Church, ul. Grodzka
54, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl.
A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the
breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Pauls. The event
begins at 20.00 every Monday, Tuesday and Thursday and
one can expect to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and
film music all performed by the The Orchestra of the City
of Cracow. Q Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 60/40z.
Available at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open
Cracow Klezmer Concerts at the Isaac
Synagogue E-6, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18,
tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. An
artistic attempt to preserve the Jewish heritage of Ka-
zimierz, these concerts are performed by the Tempero.
Consisting of professional musicians, all graduates of
the Cracow Music University, not only are they skilled at
Klezmer and other Jewish music, they have a modern
approach to chamber music. All taking place at the
Isaac Synagogue, one of the best preserved and largest
synagogues in the country, at present used by Hassidic
Chabad Lubavith Community. Q Concerts start at 18:00
on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu and Sun. Tickets 60/40z. Avail-
able at City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open
Opera & Organ Concerts C-5, St. Giles Church,
ul. Grodzka 65, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.
newculture.pl. This series of Opera and Organ concerts
includes works by all the greats: Mozart, Handel and Bach
amongst others. The Opera Delights Concerts at St Giles
Church (at the foot of The Royal Castle) give you a true
taste of the city as it should be savoured. All performed
by gifted graduates from the Cracow University of Music
and soloists from Cracow Opera House and Philharmonic,
this is not only for opera lovers, but for everyone who
likes good music. Q Concerts starts at 19:00 on Wed,
Fri and Sat. Tickets 60/40z. Available at City Informa-
tion Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00) and
before the concerts.
Live Music - New Culture
16
Agnieszka oboda, Krakw Chamber Opera Archive
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
20.07 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday
Ars Cameralis - Krakw 2013. 10 Krakw
Chamber Opera Summer Festival
E-5, Krakw Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48)
12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. For the 10th time, the
Krakw Chamber Opera is organising a month-long music
festival. This year youll have the opportunity to hear Pergolesis
La Serva Pardona and Livietta e Tracollo, the Chatskele,
Chatskele! Yiddish music concert, and the religious hymn
Stabat Mater. Location is the Krakw Chamber Opera and
the start time is 19:00 unless otherwise indicated.QTickets
40-120z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera box office (open
10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
09.08 Friday - 10.08 Saturday
Coke Live Music Festival 2013
Airfield - Aviation Museum, Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny),
www.livefestival.pl. Coke Live began as a hip-hop/R&B/pop
festival, but it gradually warmed towards rock as well; the event
draws some of the biggest names in show business, many of
whom give their first performances in Poland as part of the
festival. Past editions have welcomed such stars as Rihanna,
Lily Allen, 50 Cent, The Chemical Brothers, Placebo, Muse, and
Snoop Dogg (err... Snoop Lion?). This years line-up is as follows:
Biffy Clyro, Brodka, Franz Ferdinand, Florence and The Machine,
Katy B, Regina Spektor, and Wu-Tang Clan. Q Tickets 155z.
Festival pass 275/245z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
15.09 Sunday - 22.09 Sunday
Sacrum Profanum
Event takes place in various locations., www.sacrum-
profanum.com. Sacrum Profanum is a festival of ambitious
modern music that has been organised yearly since 2003,
growing in length from four days to a full week, and earning
numerous awards in that time. This years line-up includes
Portishead, Adrian Utley, BEAK, Tyondai Braxton, Alan Pier-
son, Grey McMurray, and many others. Q Tickets 66-99z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek Gwny 5,
C-3, open 09:00 - 22:00).
6th Film Music Festival
Event takes place in various locations., www.fmf.fm. Some
of the best symphonic music today is composed for film, and it
often goes without due recognition outside the world of cinema-
tography. Luckily, since it can and does stand alone, film music
concerts and festivals are beginning to grow in popularity. This 6th
Film Music Festival will feature music by Alberto Iglesias (the com-
poser responsible for much of Pedro Almodvars soundtracks
for the past 18 years), Werner Herzog, Valgeir Sigursson, and
others. Q Tickets 30-60z. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Opera
29.09 Sunday
Verdi Gala
B-4, Krakw Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1. Verdi Gala
is an international project in honor of the Italian composers
200th birthday. The show includes the best bits of the best
operas: La Traviata, Rigoletto, Aida, Nabucco, and will be per-
formed by Silvia Rampazzo, Giulio Boschetti, Silvano Frontalini,
and a ninety-person chorous and orchestra led by Marek Tracz.
Q Show starts at 16:00 and 19:30. Tickets 80-140z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik (Rynek Gwny 5, C-3, open 09:00
- 22:00) and Krakw Philharmonic Ticket Office (Open from
August 26, 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed, Mon, Sat, Sun).
27
HOTELS
26
HOTELS
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into elite
status as a European destination, there is no lack of accom-
modation options in this fabled city. From fancy 5-star affairs
to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and breakfasts,
historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels - you wont
be hard-pressed for a place to stay. With limited space, we
obviously cant list every sleeper in the city in our print guide,
however you can find a comprehensive list of Krakws myriad
accommodation options on our website.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these
days due to online booking discounts, special offers and
other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instruc-
tive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point, anyone who
uses the Hotel Calculator function on our website - krakow.
inyourpocket.com - will find a better rate than the official
prices we once printed; as such, we encourage you to do just
that and you can thank us later.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities,
and in our print guide we only list those lodgings that we most
recommend to tourists.
Cream of the Crop
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. Youve chosen well. Few
hotels in Central Europe can match the standard set by
Copernicus, and its a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries,
with former guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully
uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork,
marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes some dating from
the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel,
gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming pool
housed in the medieval cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles, 17
doubles, 8 suites). PTJHA6FLGKDCW
hhhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424
08 00, www.grand.pl. Krakws first five-star hotel has
long been established as the citys most luxurious and
has the legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private
suites with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass
windows, ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service
create the imperial ambiance the hotel has built its repu-
tation on since its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski
Palace, while a business centre and fitness club add mod-
ern conveniences. Q64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles, 9
apartments). PTJHAR6UFLGKDW
hhhhh
Grdek D-3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30,
www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to
you by the same team behind the Pugetw and Maltaski,
so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed
by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrats country
retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with
vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks
of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Grdek
offers an air of complete serenity and 5 star standards. Q23
rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles, 2 suites). PTHAR
6ULGKDW hhhhh
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D- 4, ul. Wielo-
pole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.
pl. Nothing short of top-l evel standards courtesy of the
Holi day Inn. Large rooms wi th an appealing blue col our
pal ette, staf f who fuss over you, pri vate parking and two
separate restaurants make this the reliabl e choi ce one
woul d expect. For the best pri ce check out the special
dail y offers on their webpage. Q152 rooms (148 singles,
148 doubles, 4 sui tes). PTJAR6UFGKW
hhhhh
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12
384 08 08, www.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opul ence
awaits inside one of Polands top hotels. Gain entry via
a huge hardwood door that automatically swings open,
007-styl e. Occupyi ng a former ari stocrati c resi dence
many of the original details have been retained alongside
chic touches such as a glass li ft that zips guests to their
rooms. Accommodation comes with sumptuous rooms
filled with creature comforts and bathrooms fitted with
Italian marble. A subterranean pool open to all can be
found in the cellars, while perched on top of the hotel is a
recommended albeit seasonal rooftop cafe/bar with views
staring onto the main square. The class of Krakw, its no
surprise that the English national football squad head-
quartered here during Euro 2012. Q53 rooms (8 singles,
34 doubles, 4 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H- 3, ul. Flisacka 3,
tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A
relati vel y new fi ve-star hotel and spa on a qui et corner
of the Wisa ri verbank, the Ni ebi eski is desi gned to be
environmentall y sustainabl e and energy ef fi ci ent, wi th a
harmonious holistic interior arrangement and philosophy
of well -being that extends from the excell ent Vanilla SPA
throughout the entire hotel. The spacious rooms feature
wi de, comfortabl e beds, uni que modern furnishings and
soothing colours, while the Vanilla Sky on-site restaurant
serves l i ght fusi on cui si ne wi th onl y certi fi ed organi c
ingredi ents, and features great vi ews of Wawel Castl e.
There is also a 4-star hotel directl y next door owned
by the same peopl e i f youd rather keep some of your
cash to spend in the spa. Q40 rooms (38 singl es, 38
doubl es, 2 apartments). PTHAR6UFGK
DwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu B- 4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48)
12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow.
Located next to the Fi l harmoni a and the Pl anty, the
Radisson possesses a prime location right in the heart
of Krakow. Few amenities are spared and you can take
advantage of free bike rentals, breakfast, hi gh-speed
i nternet and even certai n sui tes that al l ow smoki ng.
Weekends can be qui te busy i n the summerti me, so
book in advance and take advantage of the small fitness
centre and spa, as well as the various guided tours that
are sponsored by and depart from the door of the hotel.
Q196 rooms (148 singles, 148 doubles, 19 apartments,
29 Business Class Rooms). PTJHAR6UF
GKDXwW hhhhh
Sheraton Krakw A-5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12
662 10 00, www.sheraton.pl/krakow. The choi ce
of the stars. This is where the Dutch national football
team set up camp during Euro 2012, though usuall y i ts
weal thy touri sts and corporate travel l ers who bustl e
through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling fi ve
star venture near Wawel Castl e. Rooms come decorated
wi th chequered scarl et col our schemes and state-of-
the-art ameni ties. Several fine restaurants and bars are
also in the buil ding, including a seasonal rooftop terrace
bar overl ooking the ri ver and castl e. Q232 rooms (228
si ngl es, 228 doubl es, 3 sui tes, 1 Presi dential Wawel
Apar t ment) . PTHAR6UFGKDCW
hhhhh
SPLURGE:
The Sheraton and the Grand both have suites that top
the 1000 per night mark, with the Presidential suite at
Hotel Stary also coming close.
CHEAP:
Greg & Tom Beer House is the most happening new
hostel in town, while The Secret Garden a good option
for those who want a modern place that doesnt call itself
a party hostel. For centrally located budget lodging that
trades drunken backpackers for a proper bed and some
privacy, try Tournet. Alternatively, visit the nightlife sec-
tion for suggestions on how to not sleep at all.
LADS:
Pack mentality suggests you stop pissing around and
just book into the ever-hospitable Sheraton. However, if
you need to cut costs, look into the Ibis or stay central in
Campanile or Pod Wawelem. Or just make a reserva-
tion at the place you stayed in when your other buddy
got married last year. Wed suggest an apartment, but
we know youd destroy it.
FAMILIES:
Why not put the fam in an apartment? In addition to
allowing everyone in your clan a bit more room to roam,
you can also squeeze as many offspring into the bed as
possible at no extra cost and the kids can be as loud as
they want without irritating anyone. Except you.
Lodgings at a Glance
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate
accommodation with facilities that include fridge, LAN
and cable TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and
new: original brickwork and timber touches combined
with chic designer furnishings. Q16 rooms (16 apart-
ments). TA6GW
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These high
standard apartments right in the heart of the city come
furnished in a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing
scarlet and white colours. All have microwave ovens, air-
conditioning, hairdryers and high-speed internet connec-
tion, however the hike up to the third floor may not suit all
guests. Q7 rooms (7 apartments). PTA6GKW
Red Kurka C- 4, ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48)
535 91 91 35, www.redkurka.com. Consider us
impressed; these three apartments quietly tucked in
the courtyard of a conveniently-located old residence
near the Planty are probably the coolest places to crash
in town. Designed by local graphic artist Marcin Kubiak
(well done, sir), the apartments feature lots of bold
colours and pop art without being heavy-handed, while
serving as an exhibition of 20th century Polish product
design. For its funky red radish theme, our favourite has
to be apartment B, able to accommodate up to 6. All
apartments include a washing machine, stove, oven (a
rarity), wifi, satellite TV and bathroom amenities, in case
you forgot your shampoo. Recommended. Q3 rooms (3
apartments). TA6GW
Apartments
28
HOTELS
29
HOTELS
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60
70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the
age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of-
the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here
and this is one place which guarantees the memorable stay
that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20
doubles, 2 apartments). PTYJHARUFL
GKDW hhhh
NEW
Amber Design B-2, ul. Garbarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 421
06 06, www.hotel-amber.pl. A four-star addendum to the
original Amber Hotel, this gorgeous new boutique sleeper
features beautiful art deco and art nouveau details inspired
by local artiste extraordinaire Stanisaw Wyspiaski in the
very rooms themselves. Located in a historic tenement build-
ing just five minutes from the market square, other authentic
features include the original tile stoves that heat the hotel
and the lovely mosaic work on the staircase. Guests also
have free access to the sauna and fitness room, pets are
welcome, and the hotel even offers a babysitting service for
parents that actually want, you know, a vacation. Q20 rooms
(14 doubles, 6 suites). PTHAR6UFGKDW
andels Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
660 00 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first
things youll see when you step off the train is this ultra-
modern hotel designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can
be no doubt about location. Full of odd curves, recessed
floor and wall lighting, and sleek furnishings, Andels hosts a
restaurant, bar, fitness studio, sauna and massage services.
Rooms are bright and bold and feature LCD TVs, CD and DVD
players (you can borrow films from reception), while the roof-
top terrace of the Andels apartment is simply unbeatable.
Q159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments).
PTYHAR6UFGKDW hhhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31,
www.hotel-francuski.com. After being recently purchased
by famous restaurateur and TV personality Adam Gessler,
the Francuski has undergone minor renovations to the interior
that have it looking better than ever. Here gold-braided door-
men and porters go about their business as the ground floor
Gessler restaurant stays packed around the clock. A grand
effort that oozes inter-war elegance in a surprisingly quiet loca-
tion right near the Czartoryski Museum, Francuski squeezes
classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large
and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser
press. Best of all, breakfast comes included in the price of
your stay. Q42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles, 15 apartments).
TJHAR6FGKW hhhh
Galaxy K-3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00,
www.galaxyhotel.pl. Officially opened in September 2011,
this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the Vistula
River offers a variety of rooms, including some specifically
designed for families and others for those with disabilities.
Oddly, the price of a standard room includes access to the
adjoining spas indoor swimming pool, fitness club and hot
tub free of charge, but internet access (wifi or dataport) is
an additional 5 Euros a day. As youll note from the stylish
map in the centre of the lobby, their location is well-placed
for a walking-distance journey across the river to Schindlers
Factory and the neighbouring Museum of Contemporary
Art, and generally more ideal for exploring Podgrze and
Kazimierz than the Old Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles,
200 doubles, 50 triples, 5 suites). PTHARUFL
GKDCwW hhhh
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This new-
est luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa has more to offer
than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel. The first
Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand is designed
to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople. Rooms
come with large workspaces, a separate living area with a
pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed to relax your back
and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the most comfortable
hotel room youve ever stayed in, a 24-hour business centre,
fitness centre, conference facilities, bar and 2 restaurants
are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles,
7 apartments). PTHARUFGKW hhhh
Hotel Kossak A-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59
00, www.hotelkossak.pl. The team behind the highly-lauded
Senacki Hotel have added a star for their latest effort near
the Wisa riverbank, which opened in 2009. 60 elegant, well-
appointed rooms with flatscreen TVs, wifi and adjustable air
conditioning - more than two-thirds of which overlook Wawel
Castle - are at your disposal, as well as a large conference cen-
tre with state of the art audio-visual equipment and a classy
7th floor restaurant ideal for receptions and daydreaming from
the terrace. Q60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles, 5 apart-
ments). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12
433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located a
short walk from the train station and right on a corner of the
Royal Route its difficult to feel like youre staying anywhere
other than the heart of the city. Modern convenience in an
elegant old building, the dapper rooms include everything
youd expect from a modern upmarket hotel and guests
can enjoy the use of a fitness room and sauna, as well as
conference facilities and a stylish restaurant with strong
reputation. Q35 rooms (12 singles, 23 doubles, 1 apart-
ment). PTHARFLGKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37,
www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored
tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spacious rooms
come with rich colours and modern trappings offering a fine
balance between past and present: wifi and satellite TV in
each and the doubles even come with proper beds. The
restaurant is full of stained glass, theres a beer garden in
summer and a full set of business facilities to boot. Q48
rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments). THA
R6UGKDW hhh
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.novotel.com. This beautiful,
modern hotel at the doorstep of the Old Town offers all
the comforts youd associate with a big brand name, plus
views of Wawel Castle and the river from the upper floors.
Fully handicap-accessible facilities, spacious rooms, air-
conditioning from top-to-bottom, a stylish restaurant and
fantastic hotel pool, hot tub and sauna all give you extra
reasons to make a booking here. Q198 rooms (192 singles,
192 doubles, 6 apartments). PTHA6UFGK
DCwW hhhh
Novotel Krakw City West F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej
11, tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Not the best location around, nor does it look like Prince
Charmings palace from the outsi de, however this bi g
functional box hotel has never lacked for comfort and only
improved following recent renovations. The rooms are some
of the largest in town and would seem even more spacious
if the beds werent so big; with over 300 of them, this is still
one of Krakws larger hotels, and as such primed for large
conferences and tour groups casting a glance at the higher
end of the hotel market. The restaurant has expanded and
the lobby has been turned into a lounge with books and the
daily foreign press to peruse. Start the day with a few lengths
in the swimming pool, and finish it with late night cocktails
in their new bar. You can also rent a bike from reception.
Q305 rooms (304 singles, 304 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow A-7, ul. Monte Cassino
2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn.com/hotel-
krakow. One of Europes fastest-growing hotel companies,
Rezidor has plonked a modern colossus across the Wisa
from Kazimierz, which must be eyeing the interlopers simple,
modern curves and colour scheme slightly dubiously. This
mid-ranger in Dbniki features a fitness room and wellness
centre, impressive business facilities, a bar and grill restau-
rant, lots of parking and an additional 152 kitted-out rooms
in Park Inns signature colours: looks a bit like a Twister mat,
but conjures fond memories. Q152 rooms (152 singles, 152
doubles). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriaska 14,
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.com.pl. A beautifully
restored historic hotel, and formerly the stamping ground
of Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt. Recent renovations
have done nothing to disturb the character and rooms come
with state-of-the-art facilities, Persian rugs and important
looking antiques. Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw,
the Latin inscription above Pod Ras Renaissance door-
way reads May this building stand until an ant drinks
the ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth. So far, so
good. Q57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTJHA6FGKDW hhhh
30
HOTELS
31
HOTELS
Mid-range
Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48) 12
384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front shields
a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints of classic
works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet
access inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come
with reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining
white bathrooms also include hairdryers not always a given
in Poland. Q49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7 triples, 2
quads). PTHA6ULGW hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424
26 00, www.campanile.com. Following the Euro2012
madness, the rooms and interiors got a full freshening up.
Brightly decorated in the franchises flagship colours of cream
and green, amenities include satellite TV and bathtubs.
Within fast walking distance of the train station, ask for
a room on one of the top-floors for views overlooking the
surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105
doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). PTJHA6UGW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12
299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern building in
a central location well-connected to transport points, Chopin
features stylishly-designed interiors, including clean, colour-
ful rooms, a western attitude to service, free wifi, fitness
centre with sauna, restaurant, bar, conference facilities and
more. Recent renovations, as well as regular promotions,
make this a very good choice for the money. Q220 rooms
(212 singles, 7 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHAR
6UFGKDW hhh
Classic D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03
03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and
air-conditioning. Q31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 5
triples, 5 apartments). PTJAR6UGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. Sublimely located for exploring the Jewish his-
tory of Kazimierz, this carefully restored building was formerly
the home of Izaac Jakubowicz, founder of the Izaac Syna-
gogue. As such, Jewish guests are catered to with fragments
of the Torah on the doors, original paintings of old Kazimierz
life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual bath house) in Poland.
Rooms come equipped with mini-fridge, wifi and satellite TV.
Conference facilities are also on hand, and theres even a
sauna and salt cave. Q27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5
triples, 2 suites). THA6UGDW hhh
Hotel Kazimierz D- 6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48)
12 421 66 29, www.hk.com.pl. Beauti ful stai ned
glass windows inside the restaurant fill this hotel with an
upscale ambience. Upstairs simple, modern rooms meet
three-star standards, generally have at least one sloping
wall, and come with spongy wallpaper you cant keep your
fingers off. Q38 rooms (38 singles, 28 doubles, 2 triples).
PTHAR6GW hhh
Hotel Kazimierz II E-5, ul. Starowilna 60, tel. (+48)
12 426 80 70, www.hk.com.pl. A well restored 19th
century faade hides rooms containing cream and scarlet
flourishes and, in some, grand extras such as period-style
wardrobes. A very good middle-of-the-road gig this, with
rooms armed with TV and internet access and a location
on the border of the hip Kazimierz district. Q23 rooms (23
singles, 21 doubles). THAR6GW hhh
UNRI VALLED VALUE FOR MONEY
I N THE HEART OF CRACOW
The Chopin Hotel Cracow Old Town means deep relaxation,
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Just in the Chopin Hotel Cracow Old Town:
hlghsLaudard=reasouableprlces.
DESTINATION: Cracow city centre
BENEFITS: Your home away from home at a reasonable price
EXPLORE: www.chopinhotel.com
keeping with the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein
come with elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and
antique details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and
all are treated to modern finishes that include gleaming
bathrooms, air conditioning and digital TV. Situated right in
the thick of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right
on your doorstep. Q28 rooms (23 singles, 19 doubles, 5
suites). PTHARFGKDW hhhh
Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86,
www.hotelsenacki.pl. A beauti ful historic building near
Peter & Pauls Church right on the royal route between the
market square and Wawel is the setting for this intimate,
high-standard hotel. With four stars on their epaulettes since
2012, and a steady nod from the sometimes fickle folks
at Michelin, rooms include lovely architectural details, fine
fabrics and easy colour schemes. Some even come with a
balcony, but youll find fantastic views of the Old Town from
almost every room. Q20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles, 2
suites). PTHAR6UFLGKW hhhh
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26
64, www.wentzl.pl. A world-class hotel with the best
views in the city. The rooms come decked in rich fabrics,
hand-woven rugs, beauti ful carpentry work and original
artwork. The staff will do anything (within the realms of de-
cency) to ensure a smooth stay, from booking opera tickets
to reserving flights. And dont for a minute think this is an
antiquated type of hotel. While it drips with class youll also
find state-of-the-art accessories with in-room home cinema,
fancy coffee machines and Playstations available. Those who
want a more active vacation should take them up on their
free bike rentals for guests and take a ride along the Wisa
riverbanks. Q18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 8 triples).
PiTJA6LGKW hhhh
Polski Pod Biaym Orem C-2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel.
(+48) 12 422 11 44, www.podorlem.com.pl. Fabulously
located between the Czartoryski Museum and Floriaska
Gate, this incredible hotel offers views of the only surviving
section of the citys medieval defensive walls. One of the
oldest hotels in town, the White Eagle has been operating
as an inn since 1815; after becoming state property under
communism it was returned to the Czartoryski family (yes,
they of the famous art collection and Da Vinci painting next
door) and is today again one of Krakws most exquisite, yet
overlooked accommodation options. Rather than blending
the modern with the antique, the White Eagle has stayed in
character going 19th century all the way; rooms are full of
original frescoes and architectural details while providing all
the expected amenities. Topping it off is a new conference
centre for 150 people. Q57 rooms (28 singles, 21 doubles,
5 triples, 3 suites). PTJHA6ULGW hhh
Qubus Hotel Krakw J-4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design
includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from the
hotels faade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to high
standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband internet
as well as an ironing board to help with keeping up appear-
ances. Unsurprisingly theres a heavy business slant to this
hotel, with nine conference rooms to pick from, while for after-
work moments take timeout in the fitness centre complete
with top floor swimming pool with views stretching over central
Krakw. Q194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles, 10 suites,
1 apartment). PTHAR6UFKDCW hhhh
Rubinstein Residence E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48)
12 384 00 00, www.rubinstein.pl. Its no longer possible
to refer to Kazimierz as Krakws upcoming district. Kazimi-
erz has well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we ofer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
ofer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
32
HOTELS
33
HOTELS
Hostels & Dorms
Greg & Tom Beer House C-2, ul. Floriaska 43, tel.
(+48) 12 421 28 64, www.gregtomhostel.com. Greg and
Tom have basically taken the lead on the local hostel scene.
Located in a large townhouse on Krakws rowdiest street,
Beer House is similar in style to their Zyblikiewicza Street
Party Hostel with spacious rooms that dont feel overcrowded
with bunks, all the now-standard amenities, and some slick
modern decor like the chandeliers. Aside from the very nice
community kitchen, however, all of the common space has
been moved into the adjacent pub and beer garden, where
events and dinners are organised and non-guests are also
welcome. Large, with modern lounge lighting and furnishings,
good pizza, satellite TV and more, youll be hard pressed to
find any reason to venture further. Partner hostels at ul. Pawia
12/7 (D-2) and ul. Zyblikiewicza 9 (D-3). Q10 rooms (92 Dorm
beds). AGKW
The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options,
and its also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful,
quarters come with names that leave no doubt over what co-
lours to expect on opening the door, from Clockwork Orange
to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable
pine bunks, while private rooms are neat, simple efforts, with
the addition of wrought iron furnishings and colourful bed
spreads. The common room features low-slung sofas and a
DVD library to put to the test, plus theres laundry services,
free internet access and a garden for barbecues if the season
is right. Secret Garden Hostel also has six fantastic apart-
ments close to the main hostel with three others nearby in
Kazimierz. Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles, 4 triples, 1
quad, 14 Dorm beds). TA6UGW
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10
44, www.pollera.com.pl. A beauti ful stai ned-gl ass
window by Stanisaw Wyspiaski over the staircase is the
first thing to catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnish-
ings are old but functional and the rooms are otherwise
ful l y equi pped. You mi ght not get al l new ameni ti es,
but you do get 175-year-old tradi tion. Q42 rooms (31
singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments).
PTJHA6GW hhh
Royal C- 5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12
421 35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. This utterl y charm-
ing hotel in an art nouveau turn-of-the-century buil ding
gi ves you an experi ence you coul d onl y have in Krakw,
and thats a statement many pri ci er hotels can t make.
Authenti c in every way - from the reception area wi th a
canopi ed desk, glass phone booth and wonder ful se-
cessionist staircase, to the spacious rooms fi tted wi th
pre-war furnishings, carpets and wallpapers - though the
Royals facili ties have been modernised (air condi tioning,
wi fi, satelli te TV), the styl e has stayed exactl y as i t was
a hundred years ago. The unbeatabl e l ocation directl y
faces Wawel Castle from the confines of Planty Park, and
the ground fl oor bar/cafe and Pod Wawel em restaurant
are j ust more reasons to recommend this romanti c ol d
worl d hotel. I ts where we mi ght stay i n Krakow i f we
di dn t al ready l i ve here. Q99 rooms (34 si ngl es, 31
doubl es, 10 tripl es, 11 quads, 10 sui tes, 3 apartments).
PTJHA6UGKW hhh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically
stylish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely
hotel for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast
unique balconies while all rooms come furnished with an
individual touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12
triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW
hhh
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mid-range
offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a
recent renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set inside
a historic townhouse, some of the 19th century secession-
ist touches have survived, including the glass roof of the
entrance and iron balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent
muralled courtyard will have you wishing it was summer all
year round, while the fabulous mosaicked wellness centre
will have you not caring to step outside at all. Q38 rooms
(9 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHARG
KDwW hhh
Wielopole D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14
75, www.wielopole.pl. An incredibly good deal found three
minutes from the Old Town. Simple, spotless and recom-
mended, this hotel features a matey welcome in reception,
and large rooms decked out in soft browns. Q35 rooms (9
singles, 27 doubles, 6 triples). PTAR6ULGKW
hhh
Wyspiaski D- 3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)
12 422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the
blockish faade doesnt promise much, the Wyspiaski is
well worth every one of its three stars. Rooms have been
thoroughly modernised and feature rather natty patterned
duvets, private bathrooms and televisions. The gleaming
coaches regularly parked outside testi fy to its popularity
amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms (150 singl es, 109
doubles, 81 triples). OTYHAR6ULGKW
hhh
Budget
Ibis Budget Krakw Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Kraj-
owej 11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.accorhotels.
com. Some distance from the city centre, but a solid bet,
and like all Ibis hotels it offers terrific value for your money.
The tiny little rooms pack a powerful punch and have comfy
beds, flatscreen televisions, enormous windows and im-
pressive bathrooms (with shower, no bath). For what you
pay you get a hell of a lot here, including a buffet breakfast.
Recommended. Q120 rooms (120 singles, 120 doubles, 16
triples). PTA6UGW h
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 11, tel.
(+48) 12 355 29 50, www.accorhotels.com. Amongst
the best budget hotels in Europe, with Ibis you get a reliable
brand at the right price, and this one is outstandingly located
near Krakws train station, only minutes from the market
square - really, it couldnt be easier. Earning plus marks for cost,
convenience, and comfort as well, the rooms arent overly spa-
cious, but include cosy beds with extra fluffy pillows and duvets,
flatscreen TVs and free wifi. Modernly styled with plenty of colour
and personality, while some budget options can be downright
crude, Ibis Budget is outright charming, ensuring a happy sleep.
Q167 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles). PTA6UGW
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. Excell ent pension-
style accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter.
Rooms come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and
effective heating. The more expensive rooms have TVs and
huge double beds, while all have a kettle and alarm clock.
Also find an in-house restaurant - Czarny Kocio (The Black
Cauldron) - downstairs. Q18 rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles,
10 triples). TA6GKW
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12
355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. A bit more plush than
Ibis nearby budget hotel, this trusted brand guarantees a mod-
ern, wifi-enabled and - perhaps most importantly - soundproof
room fitted with a bed thats likely more comfortable than what-
ever youve got at home. Amenities outside the room include
a 24-hour bar for guests and a restaurant ready to serve you
something to eat no matter what the hour. We dont know many
other hotels that cater to your needs around the clock like that...
well, except for Ibis other almost 1,000 other hotels around
the world. Seems to be a winning formula. Q135 rooms (135
singles, 135 doubles, 16 triples). PTHA6UGKW
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. Smack bang in the middle of the
action, this classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer
the most spacious rooms in the city but what it lacks in
square metres it more than makes up for with other things.
Friendly and genuinely helpful staff oversee everything
nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows and providing tea- and
coffee-making facilities in all the rooms. Theres free wireless
internet too, and a decentish cold buffet breakfast served in
the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles,
1 suite). TA6GKW hhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12
426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with
a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow
of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours
with internet access and BBC available to veg in front of
the television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each
room, and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground
floor. Q48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHA6UGKDW hhh
34
RESTAURANTS
American
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs link
with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli staple
back to the city where its speculated that the doughy ring may
even have been invented all those years ago; and ironically
across from Polands oldest synagogue no less. Inside this
big, bright caf youre likely to meet Nava, its Yankee owner,
as he scurries back and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and
chatting with customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with
the toppings of your choice, with options including sun-dried
tomato cream cheese, humus, alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon
and more. Burritos are back on the menu, plus soup, wraps,
falafel and the new bagel burger. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. (7-23z). TA6VGBSW
Grande Grill C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Contrasting with the inflexible
traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same
team behind Krakws most famous restaurant balances mod-
ern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The seasonal
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has long
been regarded as one of the best in town, and the addition of a
stylish indoor dining area has made this an excellent year-round
venue. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads ad
burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you
would expect from the citys most established restaurateurs.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-115z). TAGBW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. The international Hard
Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the citys most
hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica. Inside youll find an
absurdly large number of staff members milling around amongst
rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns spectacles to
an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love.
Featuring a modern interior stacked over three levels, stop by
to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once
wore. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (33-115z). PTAUGBW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-else.pl. At-
tached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than a hotel restaurant,
for expats this is every bit as good as a one-way ticket home. The
menu is a classic countdown of Uncle Sams favourite bar food
including nachos and some other Tex-Mex offerings. As the rock
memorabilia and diner dcor suggests, this place doesnt take
itself as seriously as most hotel eateries, and its one of your
best bets for catching the game of your choice, be it NFL or MLB.
Loosen the tie and belt at the same time. QOpen 16:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (39-96z). PTAUGW
Asian
Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603 11 31
39, www.yellowdog.pl. Across from arguably the best cafe
in town, youll find one of Krakws most exciting eating experi-
ences. Cherry-picking the best dishes of Thai, Vietnamese,
Indian and other Asian cuisines (tikka masala, laksa), Yellow
Dogs clever menu gives you a brief background to entice you
towards each delicious entree. The side dishes - which include
edamame, tom yum and satay chicken - will give you reason
enough to fast for days before dropping in, and dont forget
the green tea cheesecake for dessert. Many of the dishes
are gluten-free and all are outstanding. Making it all the more
stylish is a slick, modern-minimal interior with large street-side
windows and a bouncy hip-hop soundtrack. Definitely recom-
mended and worthy of repeat visits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (22-34z). PTA6GSW
With the development of the market in Krakow, the
number of places to eat is now extremely wide, though
diversity seems to have been abandoned in favour of fill-
ing every Old Town locale with a Polish-Italian restaurant.
These, along with European, are of course the types
of cuisine that Krakw does best, with too many ethnic
eateries still sadly compromised in an attempt to gain
acceptance from the spice-allergic Polish palate. While
Krakws culinary rep is improving all the time, the citys
restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance
from a certain French tyre company. In our opinion,
however, there are more good restaurants to visit in this
town than you could possibly fit in one trip, so fear not,
you wont have to eat tyres.
While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city,
the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy
now makes it impossible for us to list everything. In
this section youll find reviews of what we feel are the
most note-worthy or high-profile establishments in
town, in order to help you find a place worthy of your
time and money, as well as avoid those with prime
locations that are not worth visiting. While our print
guide carries a wide selection, there are even more
listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com)
where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of
the places youve visited.
All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjec-
tive and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when
you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of
recommendations depending on what youre looking for.
SPLURGE: Wierzynek remains the king of Krakw - the
citys oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the
Rynek. For something a bit more modern, try Szara
right next to St. Marys Basilica, or Kazimierzs Studio
Qulinarne, which features a splendid garden. The sophis-
ticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus is
also bankable for your best meal while in town.
CHEAP: A traditional Polish milk bar (see our box) is
as cheap as youll eat anywhere with a menu in your
life. For something Polish with a bit of atmosphere try
Polakowski or Smakoyki. If youre not a fan of Polish
food, Alebriche - Krakws Mexican eatery - is excellent,
or head to Momo for something healthy and - youll never
guess - green.
LADS: Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a
king for pauper prices in one of Krakws two breweries -
CK Browar and Stara Zajezdnia, or try Pod Wawelem
where the bathroom features a vomitorium for those
who over-consume.
FAMILIES: Located near the market square, Mamy
Cafe (see Cafes) was made specifically to give parents
travelling with young children in tow a bit of a reprieve;
head there directly. Near Wawel, Pod Wawelem has a
sizable rumpus room for kids and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES: Krakw itself is a marvellous backdrop for
romance and you shouldnt have to search far for the
perfect place. Make a reservation in ZaKadka, Resto
Illuminati, Trufla or Aqua e Vino.
Dining at a Glance
36
RESTAURANTS
37
RESTAURANTS
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48)
12 421 05 62, www.ceska.chodba.pl. The prevailing
Polish impression of things Czech - from the language to
the countrys pop culture - is that its all basically a wonky,
absurd or surreal version of its familiar Polish equivalent.
You can safely add Czech food to that list as well, which - as
visitors to this popular cellar restaurant will discover - is
not that much of a departure from Polish food, aside from
some subtle nuances. Take the two-person Czech sampler
for example, featuring exotic dishes like roast pork neck,
goulash, dumplings, fried cheese coated in breadcrumbs
and baked potatoes (who ever heard of such things?). Its
all a bargain and quite delicious of course, but whats the
best thing about a Czech restaurant? The beer, naturally,
and here you have a wide selection of the countrys finest
served in manly steins. As far as we know, the true Czech
way is to drink your dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-30z).
TAUGBSW
French
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard
terrace is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though
the interior has a pleasing elegance as well when theres
a gale outside. Here delicious French food is served by a
well-trained staff who actually appear to enjoy what they
do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful
dishes such as roasted goose breast with mango, peach
and honey-vinegar juice. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-58z).
PTA6BXW
NEW
Trsor C-3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 696 47 51 85,
www.restauracjatresor.pl. The French incarnation of this
new Cloth Hall complex currently encompasses little more
than a large market square patio, but you wont such as great
a place to drink, dine and relax in most cities. With plenty of
space and some larger tables for groups its a perfect place
to do some summertime people watching and enjoy a little
something from their large selection of sundaes, desserts
and coffee drinks. If youve brought an appetite, the upmarket
food menu is short and focussed, updated seasonally and
includes daily specials. In September theyll open their indoor
seating under the Sukiennice and from what weve seen its
more befitting for enjoying one of their cocktails, like the
unique Lavender Collins. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-52z).
TA6UGBW
ZaKadka - Food & Wine J- 4, ul. Jzefiska 2,
tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladka.krakow.pl.
Located in a beauti fully restored tenement just over the
Bernadka footbridge in Podgrze, this thoroughly classy
and professional French-inspired bistro strikes a perfect
balance of modern elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and
below market prices to make it outrageously popular. Stud
chef Rafa Targoszs menu includes octopus, oxtail, snails,
mussels, chicken liver mousse, lamb tripe meatballs, veal
tongue and other exotic delicacies (as well as savoury
sandwiches and less daring dishes) at absolutely pedes-
trian prices when compared to the skill of preparation and
style of presentation. A perfect date destination, from
the moment you step inside seemingly everything about
Zakadka - from the sharp black and white interior to the
delicious food and excellent wine list (the owner even has
his own vineyard) - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reser-
vation now. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(24-42z). PTAUGBSW
Zazie Bistro E- 6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41
08 29, www.zaziebistro.pl. While no stranger to fine
French dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest
Krakw has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete
with classic set meals (including an appetiser, main and
dessert) for an affordable 39z, and all the French culinary
hallmarks like escargot, fantastic creme brulee and quiche
that you can order by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set
over two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking
like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural
of Frances famous phallus landmark, interior streetlights
and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table;
head to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of
candlelight and wine racks. Overall a great way to enjoy
French cuisine without indulging any stereotypes about
snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(28-36z). PTA6GSW
Hungarian
Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 04,
www.delibar.pl. This small, poorly named, but long-running
Hungarian outfit in Kazimierz is the best the city has to offer,
serving up an extensive menu of greasy, spicy and filling
feast food from PLs ally to the south. The Deli Tal platter
for two is a great way to sample the house specialties and
also a great value, though this humble restaurant full of pop
music is hardly the best choice for a romantic dinner. Still,
the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale and after
consuming bland Polish food day after day, having a flavourful
Hungarian feed will remind you of the joy of eating. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-30z). T6UGSW
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not
a bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent,
but the same couldnt be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken
Masala Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree
extra spicy here certainly wont leave your kids orphaned.
If nothing else its a decent diversion from all the menorahs
and prayer shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants.
Find a pleasant interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of
Himalayan mountain scenes and photo albums of the staff
and guests journeys in the homeland. Bollywood dance
performances are also organised in the summer garden.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-42z).
PTA6UVEGBSW
Ganesh C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 18, tel. (+48) 12 432
50 86, www.ganesh.pl. Looking more like a fashion club
than an Indian kitchen, this slickly modernised, minimally
decorated cellar restaurant leans close to an upper crust
aesthetic we associate wi th the capi tal, but i ts nicel y
executed and stops well short of being showy. Though low-
slung lounge seating better suited for drinking than dining
occupies two of three rooms, lanterns cast a canopy of dim
constellations on the walls and theres an intimate curtained
booth for whichever lucky couple gets there first. The large
menu ranges from mutton and seafood entrees to sizzlers
served on a hot plate, and like most Indian establishments,
gets pricey once you add rice, bread and a bevvy. The lunch
offer (soup and an entree for 25z, served 12:00 - 16:00)
is limited and rather weak, and your enthusiasm for this
place will largely depend on the results of your order. We
left underwhelmed and wondering if were finally suffering
from Indian food fatigue. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (24-52z).
PTAVGSW
www.yellowdog.pl
niedziela 12.00-21.00
poniedziaek-sobota 12.00-22.00
tel. +48 603 113 139
rezerwacje@yellowdog.pl
ul. Krupnicza 9/1, 31-123 Krakw
The most exciting
eating experience
in Krakow
ASIAN EATERY
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
Czech
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different
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Czech restaurant
Zwierzyniecka 30
www.ceska.chodba.pl
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38
RESTAURANTS
39
RESTAURANTS
NEW
Duy Pokj E-6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel. (+48) 12 341 49 77.
Duy Pokoj doesnt exactly inhabit the large common space
vibe that the Polish name suggests (in fact, its quite small), but
its certainly a comfortable, low key place for a satisfying meal.
Washed in white and lined with doors to non-existent rooms, the
limited, miscellaneous, but scrumptious menu draws primarily
from French and Italian cuisine, offering a choice of tasty pasta
dishes, baguettes and snacks, and shines the most with the
sandwich sets and cheese plates. Amiable and affordable, but
wed stop short of saying memorable. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (19-50z). A6GBSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12
430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ultra-stylish, with a
design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare bricks
and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the large sea-
sonal garden - an absolutely ace spot festooned with plant
life and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. The main menu
features solid breakfast options, spaghetti, soups, chicken
and pork cooked up in a variety of ways, as well as a range
of low-cal meals for those whove had enough of popping out
of their buttons. This being Poland, you can expect the staff
to look rather nice as well. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. (14-49z). TA6UGBSW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 429
34 93, www.europejska.pl. Impressive from start to finish,
this legendary veteran cafe/restaurant exudes style, class
and professionalism. The secessionist interior of artistic
woodwork and green velvet booths under vaulted ceilings is
elaborately enhanced with phonographs, grandfather clocks
and other truly exquisite antiques, while English fox hunting
imagery lines the walls. Perfect any time of day from their
excellent English breakfast to international and Polish mains
like baked salmon steak in saffron sauce followed by to-die-
for desserts, you can be assured of flawless service and an
elegant atmosphere at this historic market square escape.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (42-67z). PTAGBSW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine & Wine) D-6, ul. Jzefa 13,
tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu. This
local favourite offers a quiet, intimate setting for a romantic
dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of Kazimierzs main
square from which you can try to pluck a date for one of the
best meals in the area, with the open fireplace the finishing
touch. Choose from pork tenderloin in Fourme dAmbert or
truffle sauce, and a host of great seafood dishes delivered
fresh on Thursdays. Also on offer - and recommended - is
the sirloin steak with Camembert sauce or garlic butter.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 22:00. (25-
65z). TA6GB
Nova Resto Bar D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 502
29 14 41, www.novarestobar.pl. This vast and stylish
canteen has established itself as one of Kazimierzs cor-
nerstones, with wide appeal that seems to attract everyone
from cotton-candy haired grannies to first daters, families
and fashionistas. The extensive menu offers something
for them all including burgers, burritos, soups, shakes and
steaks, and the gorgeous servers also get points for being
good at their jobs. With three large salons, including a large
covered terrace and smoking section large enough for non-
puffers to hardly notice the ashtrays, its an ideal destination
for large groups. Totally trendy with bright, bold colours and
funky fabrics on retro furnishings, theres even a moped and
a huge screen when sports take precedence over the silent
films that run otherwise. A bit expensive in our opinion, but
there are just too many pluses for us to put this place down.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (22-53z). TYA6BXSW
presentation. Try the chef specialty chicken a la martell
on chestnut puree while enjoying views of the Wisa and
Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00.
(55-65z). PTAUEGW
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. This city-centre bargain near May
Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange
tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the sum-
mer. While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the
Mediterranean, the 19-25z lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00
17:00) isnt above simple favourites like cheeseburgers, and
Sundays brunch (12:00-16:00) features American pancakes
with bacon, or BBQ ribs. The dinner menu reveals no lack
of creative muscle with dishes like Rabbit leg caramel-
ized in honey, braised in red wine and plums at affordable
prices, and the wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif
is an all round delight. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-59z).
PTA6UBXSW
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Inside one
of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find one of its most
exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high, and gets results
with gourmet choices that change with the seasons in order
to incorporate fresh local produce as much as possible. As
the menu updates itself, the quality remains constant, and
here youll find one of the best wine lists youve laid eyes on.
Original frescoes still grace the elegant gothic interior where
the aristocratic cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel prize win-
ners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav
Havel, Helmut Kohl). At Copernicus you get what you pay for,
making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-129z). PTAGSW
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Following a freshening-up
the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Induss interior
look sharper than ever, but its the spacious new summer
garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when
the weathers warm. The near constant line of people filing
in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while
spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the
business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-39z). PTAGBS
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic urek soup - few places do it better - before moving
on to more notable nosh like the venison that will have you
wondering how such simple flavours can be so rich. The su-
perior quality of this establishment has been grandfathered
into Krakws restaurant scene, and offers the rare chance
to eat well right off of Mozarts flatwared face. Q Open
07:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 22:00. (29-69z). PTYAUG
Andromeda K-3, ul. Gsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 342 81 42, www.galaxyhotel.pl. This large,
modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly
space-themed in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy
Hotel its located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the
best bit of style youll find in Andromeda will be on your plate,
as the kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic
We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available
Ul. Sawkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN
INDIAN RESTAURANT
DYNIARESTOBAR
20KrupniczaSt.,Krakow
Phone:+48124300838
www.dynia.krakow.pl
Open:Mon-Fri8.00-23.00
Sat-Sun9.00-23.00
Casualdiningatitsbest...
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RESTAURANTS
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriaska 14
(Pod R Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.
com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under
the spacious glass atrium of the magnificent Pod R Hotel.
The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants,
a piano perched on a raised platform and mezzanine seating
overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-
die-for desserts, and the offerings of the extensive wine cellar,
the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a menagerie
of perfectly prepared poultry and large game. Prices are high for
Krakw, but then so are the standards. QOpen 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (60-89z). PTJAUEGSW
Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20 (Unicus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, www.hotelunicus.pl.
This elegant, upscale restaurant offers an enticing range
of predominantly Polish dishes in the atmospheric cellars
below the Unicus Hotel. To whet your appetite, among the
treats populating the excellent value menu are the tried and
true pork loin on black pudding with potato pastry coated
in onion sauce, as well as wondrously rare (at least locally,
that is) dishes like radicchio with kohlrabi and croutons in
honey-caper sauce. Polish cuisine doesnt get more polished
than this, and the fine place settings and historic environs
only heighten the experience. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (41-
69z). PTAGW
Resto Bar Kipi D-1, ul. Kurniki 6, tel. (+48) 12 429
00 07. Perhaps not worth seeking out on a special trip, this
modern resto-bar might prove your saviour if youre trapped
in Galeria Krakowska or have just tipped out of the train
and need a meal immediately. Pairing bargain prices with
something other than just pierogi, cabbage and potatoes,
Kipi offers a nice, concise, but diverse menu of skillfully pre-
pared soups, salads, smoothies, crepes, pasta, an intriguing
burger (not what you expect) and enticing entrees like salmon
with arugula salad and rice. The daily special is an absolute
steal for only 12.90z and the slick interior is a relief. Across
from Galeria Krakowskas west exit, do yourself a favour: get
away from the food court and go here. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (16-30z). PTAGSW
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gobia 2, tel. (+48) 12
430 73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name
comes off as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminatis
connotations of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an
apt portrayal of this attractive restaurant hedging modern
Warsaw style into a medieval Krakw setting. Most enjoyable
and undervalued is the ability to dine in ancient vaulted brick
surroundings without being buried underground in a window-
less crypt. Check the wall-length blackboard for daily specials
before choosing from their tantalising menu of modern,
flavour-melding main courses. Also worth checking out for
breakfast and their daily lunch specials served 12:00 - 17:00.
Reassuringly theres no need for blood rites to be a regular.
QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. (53-89z). PTA6EGBSW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal suc-
cessfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by
being one of the most stylish places to be all day and night.
In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonethe-
less stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows
and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a
fragile fire-pole. On the card youll find salads, pastas, and
meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the mornings
and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas) late night, when
everything inside from the cushions to the clientele looks ed-
ible. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (18-57z).
PTAUXSW
Corner Burger E-6, ul. Dajwr 25, tel. (+48) 535 85
01 09. Krakws Battle of the Burgers is officially under-
way and this small feed station makes a strong argument
for itself. With a few elements of Americana - laminated
menus, classic chequered tablecloths - the simple interior
stops short of achieving any retro-chic appeal it might be
trying for, thanks in part to amateurish paintings of Jules
Winnfield (Samuel Ls character from Pulp Fiction) declar-
ing Tasty Burger! We certainly wouldnt disagree with that,
though: requiring two hands and enough concentration
to kill any mealtime conversation, our Firehouse was
delicious, with the perfect amount of toppings and heat.
Theres no soda fountain, but they do make some pretty
decent shakes, and the hip surf rock soundtrack is price-
less. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-50z). TA6GBSW
Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 881
331 338. Full of strange graffiti, slick graphics and a
collection of wind-up robots, this hipster headquarters
even includes a downstairs art gallery. As for food, Love
Krove takes the burger concept and pushes it beyond
your expectations; in fact, well beyond the capacity of
your open mouth and maybe your stomach too. These
burgers are so stacked with tantalising toppings (includ-
ing guacamole, gorgonzola, rucola, chorizo and more)
you can hardly fit them in your face, and its good sport
watching the locals try to kni fe and fork them (sigh).
Served on a fresh roll, most of the burgers on the menu
come overflowing with mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce,
meaning you may want to build your own to make eating
less of a mess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
23:00. (17-25z). TA6GBSW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 44, www.moaburger.com. Like most things from
New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear
from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior
that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and
shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve certainly
super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate
just wouldnt do) and you might even consider splitting
one with a friend if you have any other meals planned
later in the day. Piled with the toppings of your choice,
in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers arent a mess to
eat. In fact theyre darn enjoyable, though youll discover
its not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries
and a drink coming in over 30z. Still, this is Krakws
most popular burger joint. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (11-28z). PTA6GSW
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club D-3, ul. witego
Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97. On first glance this
club looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses,
collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic
interior that looks more designed for a romantic date than
spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The
menu reveals an array of options from tartare to trout,
but wheres the beef? In the delicious, but not too dense
burgers, of which there are 17 variations, including chicken
and vegetarian substitutes. Patties are thin and oblong,
as are the buns, so that when cut in half you have what
would pass in most places as two burgers on your plate.
Steaks are offered at two weights so that you dont get
priced out, and the prevailingly realistic prices and random
music playlist make this place a lot less pretentious than
it first appears, and one well be coming back to. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (17-69z). PTAUVGBSW
Burgers
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RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
modern with finely preserved details of this ancient building.
Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist,
the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather,
meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest
ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business hon-
chos who have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95z). PTA6UGSW
Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. The
flagship restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla
Sky takes a healthy approach as one of the citys only res-
taurants to get all of their ingredients from certified organic
sources, and the chef has constructed a tantalising menu of
Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that will make you
want to happily commit to the eco-craze. Choose between
options like broccoli cream soup with mascarpone cheese
and smoked salmon or steak served with Paris baguette
and Provencal vegetables. Set in the centre of a spacious
dining room on the hotels third floor, the well-dressed tables
circle a gorgeous Yamaha Grand Touch piano on which live
concerts are given by a local maestro Thursday to Saturday
from 20:00-22:00 and Sunday from 14:00-16:00. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (39-69z). PTAUEGBSW
Israeli
Hamsa E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45,
www.hamsa.pl. In a district whose dining establishments
still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past (see
the place next door for example), heres a restaurant free
of nostalgic pre-war dcor and wooden roof fiddlers, where
Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional East European fare.
Making a bold impression simply by being bright, modern and
free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle East-
ern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are
Studio Qulinarne E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12
430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Housed inside an
old bus hangar on the site of the City Engineering Museum,
Studio Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of
bricks and timbers and turned it into one of Krakws most
elegant dining destinations. Potted plants and illuminated
white drapes cleverly hang between fine table settings with
refreshingly mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist
plays in the main dining area. The air of exclusivity is di f-
fused by a childrens corner, wall-length windows opening
onto the street in fair weather, and the summer garden
full of greenery and futons - one of the most comfortable
places for a cocktail in town. The menu ranges from af-
fordable pasta dishes to pricey exotic game, and we can
recommend not only the venison, but the entire experience.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30-75z).
PTA6UEGBSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66
69, www.szara.pl. Enviably located right on the corner
of the market square, Szaras reputation as one of the
best restaurants in town hasnt wavered over the years
and i f youre looking for a place to impress guests or treat
yoursel f to a special last night in town meal, this is a sure
bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and
outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete
elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness of
some other venues of this ilk. Choose from dishes like
Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce in what has come to
be known as one of the cornerstones of Krakws culinary
scene.The separate, more modern and casual bar just next
door is a smart breakfast destination (served 8:00-12:00)
and cocktail bar by night, plus in summer theres plenty
of outdoor seating. I f youre in Kazimierz, try their second
venue at ul. Szeroka 39 (E-6). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (41-
85z). PTAUGSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12
429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Openi ng after
its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara
achieved Krakw legend status just as quickl y. What
makes it so special is not the location on Szeroka, nor the
swi ft and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city
can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the
daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes
in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful.
All of Krakw should be like this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(31-67z). PTAGBSW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.theolive.sheraton.pl.
Top class Mediterranean and Polish dishes served inside
the impressi ve environs of the Sheratons voluminous
interior atrium. The glass roof makes it possible to dine
under the stars while the foliage dotted around adds to
the al fresco atmosphere. The best ingredients money
can buy are complemented by graceful service and some
superb live piano. Fine dining at its best. Q Open 06:30
- 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 11:00,
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30. (30-94z).
PTAUEGSW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel. (+48)
12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A sensory
delight wi th crimson flourishes, feathery boas and gil t
picture frames providing an air of Parisian decadence.
A private members area and a pair of black-suited door
police add an air of exclusivity while the live jazz concerts
performed every evening are worth the visit alone. The
hi gh-end, hi gh-qual i ty European di shes are an added
bonus, and brought to you by a busy team of beauti ful
wai tresses dressed i n eveni ng wear. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00. (30-80z). PAEGBS
Tradycyja C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. The main tradycja (tradition) of
this historic market square locale seems to be re-branding
itself every year, but that hardly dents the success of this
tourist magnet. Though somewhat haunted by the spectres
of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely
unused), theres no need to mess with what is still a marvel-
lous dining space oddly blending old Polish aristocracy with
Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber ceiling
and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for
just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish
and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights of
previous kitchens, ranging from chicken livers stewed in wine
with apples to oven-roasted duck with pears and cranberry
sauce. The results cover for the sometimes uneven service,
and the prices are well within reason. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
(32-54z). TAUEGBSW
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41.
The Krakw dining scene continues to improve and this cosy
place on Pl. Szczepaski sets itself apart by offering great
food at the right price. A simple, predominantly white decor
with wooden furniture allows you to relax while interpreting
the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher handwritten
cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open kitchen lets
you in on the creative cooking process and the year-round
garden - with its small Japanese-style garden - is one of the
most gorgeous youll find around. With limited tables inside
and out, plus Truflas loyal band of followers, reservations
might be wise. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. (20-40z). A6VGBSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Hotel
Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors
of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the
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perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample
delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush, labnah
and muhammarah (our recommended choice), but are also
beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. An entrance
from ul. Miodowa 41 now leads you to their beautiful garden
where you can enjoy a breakfast buffet from 08:00 - 11:00
(17.80z) or glass of Israeli wine. Fairly-priced and generally a
breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
(20-30z). TA6UEGBSW
Italian
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Upmarket
Italian food served in an elegant setting to a discerning
audience - all of whom appear to know exactly what they
are ordering and how it should be prepared. The pressure
is on, but the Amarone team comes through every time
and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked
daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight
from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean
via plenty of natural light and potted plants. Weekdays
12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting menu
for only 50z. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (49-65z). PT
JA6UEGSW
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421
25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exciting as the day it
opened. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes deco-
rated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour com-
binations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan.
Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully presented
dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Earning
rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any must
visit list you may be keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri
12:00-16:30) to get an appetiser, main and drink for only
35z. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (24-78z). PTAGSW
Boscaiola B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41
27. If you know this town well, Szewka Street is probably
the last place youd look for a nice meal out. Aside from its
location alongside fast food stands and filthy clubs, however,
this classy Italian eatery should hardly be a surprise. With
pedigree and another winning design job from the team
behind the popular Mamma Mia, Boscaiola offers the most
stylish interior on the block, full of lovely timber and white
ceramic fittings (even making clever use of chain-link fencing),
with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and street
theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful cellar full
of wine bottles and wire-brushed brick and stone. The menu
is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and pastas, but theres no
skimping on the quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the
total of the bill at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the
centre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-46z). TAUGSW
NEW
Chianti C-3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 696 47 51
85, www.restauracjachianti.pl. Krakws is apparently
obsessed with Italian food, and this vast venue in the Cloth
Hall with a large summer patio in the shadow of the Town
Hall Tower is only further proof. With a set-up like that you
can hardly go wrong and Chianti hasnt, offering historic
surroundings, enviable views, outstanding service and a
concise, seasonally updated menu of upmarket eats. The
coffee drinks, as you might expect, are excellent, and the
ice cream sundaes are enormous. The renovated interiors
feature large individual entresols that create a privacy you
wont find most places, or expect from a high-profile restau-
rant inside a medieval marketplace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(20-50z). PTAUGBW
Augusta E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. (+48) 728 52 94
46, www.restauracjaaugusta.pl. This imposingly large
and modern river barge makes the neighbouring Barka
docked next door seem modest and outmoded. In terms
of riverboat dining, Augusta is as contemporary as it gets,
with a stylish and surprisingly spacious post-industrial
design of polished aluminium and glass letting in plenty of
natural light. Augustas two enviable sun decks can seat up
to 60 people combined, every interior table comes with a
great view, and somehow its all handicap accessible, even
boasting an elevator; honestly, the effect isnt unlike an
upscale hotel restaurant on the water. As such the service
is top-notch and youd be silly to skip over the menu of
Mediterranean and European cuisine, featuring plenty of
seafood and beef cheeks in wine sauce. QOpen 10:00 -
23:00. (20-55z). PTA6UGBSW
Barka Food, Life, Music E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki
(near the terminus of ul. Gazowa), tel. (+48) 668
82 04 54, www.alrina.pl. If youre thinking of boarding
one of the several dining vessels along the Wisa River,
make it Barka. This Dutch cargo barge dates back to
1889 and was once significant enough to the history
of water transport to be featured on a Dutch postage
stamp. Since then it has been modernised by Polish
craftsmen with thrilling results. Descend into the spa-
cious hold refitted with wooden floors, a sculpted bar,
fireplace and skylights that let in plenty of natural light.
The cocktail and wine lists are duly impressive, and the
menu of creative designer food is thoroughly enjoyable.
Utterly elegant and skillfully stylish, climb aboard and
become an instant socialite. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (24-39z). PTAGBSW
Riverboat Dining
Reviled by some [raises hand], revered by others, Krakw
has more pigeons than any other city in Europe, with the
possible exception of Venice. Its no secret that Poles
absolutely adore pigeons, naming various streets ul.
Gobia (B-3) in their honour and creating the cherished
national dish gobki in their image. Nearby Katowice
made headlines in 2006 when the roof collapsed on a
crowd of 700 people attending the National Pigeon Exhibi-
tion, while in Krakw, breeders and buyers flock to Plac
Nowy every Tuesday and Friday morning for the bi-weekly
pigeon market (a sight to behold, believe us). Every local
family has a home video of their kids on the market square
covered head to foot in flapping birds, as well as a granny
who hoards food from them to feed the flying vermin. If
youre wondering why a pestilent, disease-spreading bird,
which does nothing but dirty the streets and has driven all
other indigenous ornithological life out of the city, is treated
like such nobility by the citizens of Krakw, well, heres a
popular local legend that might help explain it:
Long, long ago Poland was a large glorious kingdom, until
King Bolesaw the Wry-mouthed buggered his final will and
testament by dividing the kingdom between his five sons
in the early 12th century, leading to almost 200 years of
feudal fragmentation across Poland. Though Kazimierz
the Great would eventually succeed in reuni fying the
kingdoms, there were those before him who also aspired
to draw the five kingdoms under a single crown again. One
so bold was King Henryk Probus, who ruled Krakw in the
13th century. The problem with reunifying Poland was that
it required the blessing of the Pope, and with an empty
treasury and little support from the local nobility Henryk
lacked the resources for the long, expensive journey to the
Vatican. With nowhere to turn, the desperate King sought
the help of an old sorceress living in the wilds beyond the
city gates. The sorceress agreed to give the King the
wealth he desired, and see to it that he travelled to Rome
in all the splendour befitting a powerful monarch. However,
there was one condition: that Henryk travel alone without
his army, which would remain at rest in Krakw until his
return. The terms were agreed, but when the sorceress
appeared on the market square empty-handed for the
Kings grand departure, the incensed King ordered his
guards to apprehend the old hag. As they approached
the sorceress made a quick motion of her hand and sud-
denly the Kings guards and entire assembled army were
transformed into pigeons. Flying upwards in one enormous
flock, the birds began to peck and claw at the towers of St.
Marys Basilica, dislodging small bits of brick and stone
which rained down and turned into brilliant pieces of gold
upon hitting the ground. Filling purse after purse with the
treasure, the ecstatic King hastily set off alone in the
direction of Rome. Along the route, however, he couldnt
help wasting his new wealth on extravagant meals, mead
and maidens at every opportunity. With no one to watch
his frivolous spending, the King awoke one morning to
discover he was virtually penniless. Too ashamed and
destitute to return to Krakw, the once-and-future King
never did, however his faithful army remains, waiting for his
return to restore their human form, along with the former
glory of their kingdom.
And that, my friends, is why Krakws pigeons are protect-
ed just as much as any other aspect of the historic market
square they obscure because theyre the noble knights
of days gone by, and in this city, chivalry still prevails.
Pigeons
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start with the
obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely
unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are
sold from rolling carts on every other street corner in Krakw,
and are so inescapable theyve become an unofficial symbol
of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish
foods currently protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods
List. Known as the Krakowian bagel, the obwarzanek gets
its name from the Polish word for par-boiled and therefore
differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its
internationally popular counterparts predecessor. Though
the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and
hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Krakw
Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree
that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the
Krakw Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek
meanwhile dates back to 1394, meaning that its been a
daily sight on Krakws market square for over 600 years.
Though increased tourism in recent years has jacked the
price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50z (sacrilege!), youll
still see countless people on the go munching these pretzel
rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an
obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Krakowian bakers
produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer,
despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods
have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a
hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki
also feed Krakws entire pigeon population when in the
evenings the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially
become bird-food vendors.
The Obwarzanek
Jarema Restaurant
Krakw, Plac Matejki 5
phone: +48 12 429 36 69
www.jarema.pl
The only Polish
restaurant in Krakw
recommended in the
Michelin Guide 2010.
WE INVITE YOU TO OUR
SUMMER GARDEN
46
RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the
same tried and true team behind Mid Malina and Wesele
- two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the
pastas and risottos are as good as youd expect. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (16-52z). TAEGBSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12
422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl. Dispatched from a
traditional wood-fired oven, this is some of the best pizza in
town. The choice of numerous home-made pastas and other
Italian standards, however, proves Mamma Mia is more than
just a one trick pony. The interior clever lighting and exposed
bricks makes a cool backdrop for casual dining, and the army
of regulars is testament to Mamma Mias venerated reputation,
even luring them in for breakfast (served 07:45-12:00, Sat
08:00-12:00, Sun 09:00-12:00) with fresh pancakes, paninis,
pastries, omelettes and more. QOpen 07:45 - 23:00, Sat 08:00
- 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43z). PTAUGBS
Marcello C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 426 30
08, www.restauracjamarcello.com.pl. Magda Gessler has
nested down on Krakws market square, adding her name
to the illustrious Wentzl restaurant and opening this Italian
eatery in the basement of the same historic locale. Tastefully
decorated by Gessler standards, Marcello features a classic
blue and white striped design motif and weathered wooden
tables that essentially make you feel like youre on a Tuscan
picnic, albeit in a medieval cellar. Somehow it works and the
old photos of Italian screen starlets that adorn the walls add
that sexy touch of class that we fondly remember Sophia Loren
for. Choose from all the hearty Italian staples, in addition to
dishes like grilled steak fillet in balsamic vinegar or rosemary
sauce, and an expansive selection of Italian wines. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (18-56z). PTAVGBSW
Milano Ristorante C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana 1
(The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00, www.
milanokrakow.pl. Housed in perhaps the most magnificent
building on the market square, just a stones throw from the
Cloth Hall, Milano is a classy and smart dining option. A small
collection of intimate rooms decorated with all manner of
oddities including a rocking horse provide ample opportunity
to tuck into a fine range of Italian and international dishes. The
clientele is mixed albeit mostly well-heeled, whilst the almost
inaudible music comes as an extremely pleasant surprise in
whats becoming an increasingly noisy city. All in all a great
choice for pushing the culinary boat out when youre in town.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (33-119z). PTAUEGBSW
Ratuszowa C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 13
26, www.ratuszowa-krakow.pl. In summer, this is one of
the most lively locations on the market square, with fantastic
live concerts every evening in the covered seating under the
Town Hall Tower. In winter, the weathers lack of hospitality
forces only you into the unique historic interiors hung with oil
paintings and fitted with beautifully carved wood furnishings.
Today the restaurant somewhat awkwardly shares the cellars
with a theatre, and the fact that this once served as a prison
hardly seems like a surprise what with the heavy iron doors and
dim atmosphere. Upstairs or down, its a rare experience you
dont get many places any time of year - a fact reflected by the
tourist prices on the familiar menu of Italian fare and pierogi.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (16-60z). PTAGBSW
Japanese
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55/1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. Whil e vi rtuall y
unheard of in Krakw a few years ago, Genji is the latest
in a line of raw fish flayers to come to town, and the high
quality food, prepared by Japanese sushi chefs, makes
an instant argument for itsel f as the cream of the local
crop. An upstairs sushi bar l eads to an intimate brick
downstairs dining area where each table occupies its own
room. Taking itsel f a bit too seriously to explain some of the
kitschy decor touches, the extensive menu of Korean and
Japanese dishes and expensive sushi sets also includes
condescending directions on how to eat your food. However
all is forgiven when it arrives, with eyebrow-raising prices
justi fied by the spot-on results. Premium indeed. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(20-60z). PTAVGSW
Koji C-4, ul. Poselska 18/1, tel. (+48) 12 422 52 66,
www.kojisushi.pl. The art of Japanese cuisine is on display
in Koji where the skilled chefs work quickly to create an ex-
tensive range of soups, sashimi, sushi sets, hot mains and
more. The menu helps novices decode the different styles
with helpful photos, and goes beyond traditional expecta-
tions with fusion sushi sets that include ingredients you
wouldnt anticipate like sun-dried tomatoes, olive tapenade
and even guacamole. Our inari was delicious and the Mint
Carolina uramaki was delightfully refreshing. For dessert
theres green tea flavoured ice cream and creme brulee,
as well as tea, sake, Japanese beer and whisky to wash it
down. Watch the chefs at work from the bar inside the small
modern interior or relax in the seasonal back garden. Recom-
mended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(35-100z). AGBSW
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Gwny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422
32 79, www.dapietro.pl. Da Pietro laughs in the face of
every exclusive Italian restaurant to open in the Old Town in
the last few years. This veteran outfit (Krakws first Italian
restaurant) has ruled the Rynek for the last 20 years and con-
tinues to outclass the competition with its climate, quality and
even quantity. Portions are enormous, with signature dishes
like Ossobuco alla Milanese coming heaped with veal and
vegetables on saffron rice, accompanied by a tray of bread
and olive oil. As popular as the day it opened, a network of
large candlelit cellars decorated with black and white pictures
of Romes Colosseum await you inside (open from 12:30), or
enjoy the Rynek seating (open from 10:30) in warm weather.
QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. (23-54z). PTA6GBSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the Pugetw
Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to impart the cor-
nerstones of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to
gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves to
new favourites like the rosemary lamb. Combining sophisti-
cated service with a casual atmosphere, dine in an interior
of colourful photos of Italy, stout wooden tables and a timber
ceiling, or enjoy the terrace seating in short-sleeve weather.
Reliable and recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (15-46z). PTAUGBSW
La Campana Trattoria C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on
picturesque Kanonicza Street, La Campana Trattoria is a
completely di fferent restaurant in summertime when its
worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden
and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be
the best dining environment in Krakw. In winter, retreat to
ul. Szewska 10, Krakw
tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
Classy budget dining,
right in the centre.
Cracow In Your Pocket, 2013
Pizza, pasta
e magia
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Kura ul. Jzefiska 4, tel. (+48) 883 35 36 07. This
small, trendy Japanese bistro in Podgrze is ini tiall y a
bi t of a chall enge, but fortunatel y the wai tresses - in ad-
di tion to being exceptionall y beauti ful (stop staring) are
exceedingl y helpful in explaining the Polish-onl y menu,
whi ch amounts to a vari ety of ramen soups and dump-
li ngs, pl us deli ci ous noodl e, tempura, shri mp, sal mon
and chi cken dishes. One of the 55z mul ti -course dinner
sets is the easy way out and it even comes with authentic
beer and dessert. The modern, minimal desi gn features
a separate bamboo mat si tting room, balsa wood lamps
and an intimate tabl e for the sushi chef at the centre of
the front room, but Kuras strengths and refreshing ap-
peal are in i ts non-sushi dishes, all of which weve tasted
have been li ght and deli cious, ri ght down to the per fectl y
sticky rice. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (19-45z).
A6GBSW
Jewish
Ariel E- 6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79
20, www.ariel - krakow.pl. Youll hear mi xed reports
emanating from Ari el, and whil e our turkey steak was
little better than disappointing weve met more than a
number of people extolling the virtues of Ariels varied
Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with
anti ques and hei rl ooms al l udi ng to the Kazi mi erz of
yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly
cluttered style. The live music is a popular draw, though
you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being
charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (19-78z).
PTA6EBXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in
Kazimierz) E- 6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 17, www.dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the
outsi de thi s venue i s di sgui sed to l ook l i ke a row of
earl y 20th century trade shops and i s decorated wi th
awni ngs rel ati ng to the areas Jewi sh heri tage. Thi ngs
are no l ess col our ful on the i nsi de wi th mannequi ns,
sewi ng machines and carpenters work sur faces adorn-
i ng the i nteri ors. A great attempt at capturi ng the ol d
Kazi mi erz spi ri t, and a must vi si t for those traci ng
the di stri cts past. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (21-49z).
A6EGBS
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century dcor and a
jumble of rugs and paintings, the interior of Klezmer Hois
follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but its the
strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant
packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger.
Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused
and the wine flowing. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (19-59z).
TAUEGBSW
Latin American
Pimiento E- 6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25
02, www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of
Pimiento, this place is about meat and little more; big
unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in
town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina,
so i f youve had one too many Polish cutlets and want a
proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you
remember how much a good steak costs wherever you
last had one, and a selection of South American wines
wash it down. A second location in the Old Town at ul.
Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(42-110z). PTAGSW
Krakw
ul. Poselska 18/1
tel.12 42 252 66
KOJI SUSHI JAPANESE
RESTAURANT
WE WELCOME YOU
WWW.KOJISUSHI.PL
For more fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting
a local milk bar or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (see our
separate sections on each).
Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48)
12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. This beautiful
courtyard buffet has been sealed off from the elements
and now overflows with ambience year round. Full of pot-
ted plants, climbing ivy, natural sunlight and surrealistic
murals, Chimeras Salad Bar may be the most pleasant
budget dining environment in town; unfortunately it tends
to overshadow the food a bit. Choose a plate for four or
six portions, say prosz and point at your pick of the
salads, quiche, stuffed peppers and more. Its not the
best veggie fare in town, but its fast, easy, cheap and
a great place to relax. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
9:00 - 23:00. (13-17z). TA6GSW
COCA E-6, ul. Kupa 3, tel. (+48) 791 20 03 03. Little
more than a sidewalk stand one street removed from
Plac Nowy - Krakws fast food focal point - this small
eatery serves fantastic freshly made Sicilian food. The
arancino - breaded rice balls filled with ragout (recom-
mended) or spinach (7z) are delicious and duly popular.
Or try the canollis, stuffed Sicilian pancakes, salads or
home-made pastas topped with different sauces every
day. As authentic as it gets, the endearing owner speaks
Italian only and frequently hands out freebies. With no
set menu, whats on offer changes day to day, but the
endearing Italian owner is happy to offer samples and
inform your order. Entirely authentic, handily located and
open late. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (7-15z). 6VGS
NEW
Streat Slow Food E-6, ul. Kupa 10, tel. (+48) 882
972 630. It may seem ironic, but we actually view the
arrival of Krakws first food truck as further evidence of
the citys positive culinary progress and evolution. What
is ironic is that the Streat Slow Food truck isnt actually
located on the street, and it doesnt travel anywhere, aside
from to its discreet gravel lot in Kazimierz at 19:00 and
back home again when it runs out of food (usually around
midnight, but hard to say exactly). This sedentary set-up
certainly has its advantages, with the groovy little patio
of pallets and barrels for tables and chairs creating quite
the hangout for all the hipsters eagerly awaiting a tasty
burger served up fast by the two friendly faces behind the
food hatch. Their specialty is a big burger topped with feta
cheese, beets, and onion chutney (18z), but our go-to is
the delicious falafel for only 10z; just one street removed
from Plac Nowy, its the best in Krakw. QOpen 19:00 -
02:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (10-20z). GBS
U Stasi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421
50 84. If youre looking for a truly authentic local dining
experience, you simply cant do better than U Stasi.
This tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard
(past the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Pol-
ish food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned
(80 years and counting) with table service and English
menus, eliminates it from contention as a true milk bar,
but those are about the only differences. Impossible for
groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, youll be doing it
in silence at a table of students, pensioners, professors,
and homeless people. The plum pierogi are delicious
and the experience is simply priceless. Arrive before
14:00 to avoid eating the last thing left on the menu. Q
Open 12:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (9-18z). PGS
Quick Eats
50
RESTAURANTS
51
RESTAURANTS
The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriaska 34, tel. (+48) 500
10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Further proof of Polands
nai vete towards Mexican cuisine, this franchise finall y
arri ves in Krakw after tying i ts mul e to posts in fi ve
other Polish cities prior (thats the sound of us smacking
our foreheads). Gimmicks include busty Polish senioritas
wi th exposed bel l i es sl i ngi ng tequi l a shots from the
bottl e holstered to their bel ts, li ght fi xtures fashioned
from Desperados bottles, and Wanted posters featur-
ing sombreroed patrons tacked everywhere. As for food
and drink, all dishes come with pickled cabbage and the
margaritas are rimmed with sugar, so forget authenticity.
Still, this colourful, over-priced cantina could be great fun
for a group piss-up, and though the placebo doesnt work
on us, all the snogging couples would suggest its a proven
date destination. Ay carumba. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (15-
50z). TA6EBXSW
Polish
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12
431 21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyones list for
a ni ght of fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak.
Instead this is a l ocal place for l ocal peopl e who cram
around the wooden tabl es to eat huge portions of well -
l oved standards, from cheap pi erogi to excell ent bi gos
to great bi g gol onka. Order from the board or ask for an
English menu. Set meals of soup, a si de, potatoes and a
main go for 16z, meaning you can eat like a Polish king
for peanuts. Open late and we l ove i t. QOpen 11:00 -
22:00. (10-16z). T6UGS
Chopskie Jado C-3, ul. w. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. One of the most well-
known and long-running Polish food franchises, Chopskie
Jado is a reliable romp through the glories of Polish peas-
ant cooking, and a popular choice for tourist groups. Once
known for their blue country cottage interiors, a recent
re-branding has preserved the atmosphere of 19th century
village li fe created by the collection of rustic furnishings,
farming machinery, folk music and motifs - not to mention
staff members kitted out as saucy country wenches - while
modernising it to look less like an old-fashioned museum.
The fresh red and beige colour palette brings a brightness
and levity that was previously lacking, and somehow makes
the lengthy menu of stodgy peasant dishes more palatable,
despite portions being as gut-busting as ever. Also at ul. w.
Agnieszki 1 (C-6, open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (12-65z).
PTA6UGS
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429
25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. For over fifteen years
and counting this huge and rowdy Old Town cellar has been
Krakws primary microbrewery, pouring fresh, unfiltered and
unpasteurized Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales straight
from the tank into your mug. As if that werent enough to have
you plotting your route, theres also a restaurant and disco
in this underground complex, making it that much harder to
find the daylight again once youve descended those stairs.
Lads will love the beer hall atmosphere and sports on the
tube, plus the added attraction of getting the home-brew
served in a tall glass pipe with its own private tap on your
table. To really go whole hog, reserve the classic Hunters
Room - a beautiful banquet space with fine wood panelling
and plenty of antlers - and feast in style on traditional Polish
and Austrian dishes done right. Best of all, the prices dont
seem to have changed since the day they opened, making the
food a great bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. (18-50z). PTA6EGBSW
Mediterranean
Portofino E- 6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05
37, www.portofino.pl. I talian food at a decent pri ce
served on a quiet, atmospheric side street across from
Kazimierzs High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up
the menu you can expect good pasta and some wonderful
tossed salads, however the highlight of our last visit was
the paella: certainly the best in Krakw, i f it even has any
competition. Sit on the terrace i f you can; inside things get
a bit more formal. Drop by between 12:00 and 17:00 for a
special lunch menu featuring most of the menus entrees
plus a soup starter for only 20z. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(20-59z). TA6UGBSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E- 6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 430 14 51, www.restauracjawarsztat.pl.
This little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents every-
thing we love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual
atmosphere of effortless originality created by candlelight
and a clutter of battered musical instruments. The food
- risottos, pasta, salads, pizza and more - is generous in
portioning and rich in flavour without any notion that your
wallet will be, making Warsztat an excellent detour from
the days agenda. Recommended. Also now at ul. Boego
Ciaa 1 and ul. Miodowa 20 (D-6). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(28-43z). AGBSW
Mexican
Alebriche A-1, ul. Karmelicka 56. In a town that should
be admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily
has almost nothing in common with its competition, and
heres the simple di fference: its actually owned and oper-
ated by a local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult
following since its opening, Alebriche sends local expats
into ecstasy with its simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican
eats. The menu (in Polish, English and Spanish) includes
everything from huevos rancheros to flan, with nacho sets,
spicy soups, tamales, proper chicken mole and more in
between. In addition to margaritas and micheladas, this
is the only place in town where you can get horchata (our
fave). A simple, but bright, colourful interior full of photos and
folk art confirms that the focus is on food - so good youll
be coming back until youve tried everything on the menu.
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
(13-60z). A6UGSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. Manzanas New Latin concept
cuisine consists of meat and fish dishes alongside reinvented
Mexican classics (the massive burritos can be prepared a
number of ways) served in a chic cantina interior of dark,
glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin music.
Though the prices aim a bit high, the service and atmosphere
are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place
youd want to frequent often. The daily specials encourage
you to do just that and the weekend brunch (served all day)
is legendary. Also home to the largest selection of tequilas
in town. You know, were quite fond of this place... Q Open
07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:30
- 23:00. (20-90z). PTA6GBSW
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RESTAURANTS
Czerwone Korale C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu. This traditional
Polish restaurant may have the disadvantage of being discreet
from the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and
welcoming in the Old Town. Unlike others of its ilk, here the
simple, but charming folk decor favours colour over clutter:
cheerful chandeliers wrapped in wicker wreaths wound with
bright ribbons and beads hang from arched red ceilings, giving
the two dining rooms (dont miss the beautiful banquet room
in the back) a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders
and peasant maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the walls.
Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the
Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a
flair for presentation that we were hardly expecting. Theres an
entire page of vegetarian dishes (!) and the overall quality of the
food makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but
also a great value (particularly during their lunch deals Mon-Fri
12:00 - 16:00). QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(15-39z). PTUGSW
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06
31, www.hawelka.pl. Krakws moved on, but Haweka
hasnt. If you want to experience the Krakw of olde, this en-
during, achingly formal holdover is the place to do it, just like
Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and numerous Austro-
Hungarian Archdukes before them did at one time. The menu
is an encyclopaedic choice of traditional Polish game and
fish dishes served without interruption or reinvention since
1876, and the dining room is a very green (popular colour in
those days) trip back to the turn of the 20th century with a
reproduction of Jan Matejkos massive Prussian Homage
looming over the proceedings - perhaps the only inauthentic
thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:45. (20-40z). PTA6BXSW
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69,
www.jarema.pl. This classy veteran restaurant presents
old school Eastern Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious,
19th-century setting. Busty waitresses in traditional costume
bustle about serving large platters of steak with quail eggs,
pheasant and wild boar (to name a few), as live folk music is
performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar hearken-
ing back to the old days, this is not your classic tourist trap.
In fact, we heartily recommend it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(18-55z). PTA6UVEGBSW
Kawaleria Szara Smaku B-3, ul. Gobia 4, tel.
(+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl. Three
spacious rooms decorated with an equine motif - paintings
of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and hunting
trophies - include a large fireplace and lush seasonal garden.
The menu changes seasonally, but represents a strong review
of upmarket Polish game dishes with some vegetarian dishes
included as well. For kids theres not only a special menu, but
an entire fun corner with a toy chest and rocking horse. Kawale-
rias excellent food, service and value have been recognised by
many, including some tyre company called Michelin. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (23-58z). PTAUBXSW
Kogel Mogel C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68,
www.kogel-mogel.pl. Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too
refined for its own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet
hall for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes you in its
elegance without any comrade kitsch. The menu has gone full Gali-
cian and offers out-of-towners the chance to take home a much bet-
ter impression of the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere.
The duck and goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried trout
is outstanding and the large summer garden and experienced staff
also make this a good place for groups and dinner events. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (17-48z). PTAEGBSW
A lot has changed over the years since communism got
kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destina-
tion as popular as Krakw hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic
remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar. These
steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an end-
less queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide
a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the
atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station
restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you
can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar (bar
mleczny in Polish) is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of be-
ing the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk
bar was actually opened on Krakws market square
on May 30th 1948 in the townhouse now occupied by
the upstanding Szara restaurant. Named Pod Bak
(Under the Milk Churn), originally no hot dishes were
served; this was a place where you went simply to enjoy
milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass
with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this
was the new partys clever attempt at popularising
milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by
Polands large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants
were nationalised and then shut down by PLs communist
authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across
the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals
to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals
at the local milk bar were included in a workers salary.
By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across
Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast
food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently).
In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other
dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg
cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times
were so desperate under communism that many bar
mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll still
notice today that most milk bars use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by blue-
haired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food
is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat
isnt rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, todays
milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as
the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in
PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism
most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately
for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below
are our favourites in the city centre:
Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyskiego 19, tel. (+48)
12 421 14 37. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 -
16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (6-16z). G
Pod Temid C-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422
08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and white
Bar Mleczny sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. (10-16z). UGS
Milk Bars
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RESTAURANTS
55
RESTAURANTS
town, so book ahead i f you fancy taking in the Grodzka
views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This
cheer ful l ooki ng restaurant comes wi th raspberri es
painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow that illumi-
nates the darker evenings. Floral touches aplenty here,
lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while
the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cook-
ing. The prices remain pegged generously low making a
visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin Guide
2012 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60z).
PTAUEGBSW
Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12
431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Morskie Oko
aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so theres
plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits
bursting out of tradtional costume and regular live bands
making a racket. The food is caveman in style, delicious
hunks of grilled animals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50z).
PTAEGBSW
Pieroki Mr. Vincent D- 6, ul. Boego Ciaa 12, tel.
(+48) 506 80 63 04. A great place to introduce yoursel f
to this national staple, Vincents versions rises above the
ordinary. Though it may be impossible to reinvent a food
as versatile as the pierogi, this veteran establishment
has tried with apple and liver, minced lamb, chicken and
spinach, and broccoli and feta among the 30 di fferent
options. Get a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top
it off with your choice of a variety of sauces and extras.
Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered,
starry-nighted Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your
best option at peak feed times. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00.
(9-18z). AGS
Pod Anioami (Under the Angels) C-4, ul. Grodzka
35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. One
of the citys most classic and undeniably charming cellar
restaurants, Pod Anioami offers a quintessentially Cracovian
encounter with medieval Polish cuisine. As you enter you find
yourself immersed in a cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic
haven that is incredibly cosy, warm and engaging considering
that in some of its historic 13th century dining areas you are
a full two levels below the citys path of Kings. Two beech
wood-fired grills allow you to watch the creation of your meal
from beginning to end. A beautiful courtyard garden stays
open year round, and the extensive menu includes massive
meals for up to 35 people, daily lunch specials for 26z (served
13:00 - 16:00), and nearly everything imaginable that can be
smoked, grilled, or was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of
old. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (29-69z). PTAGBSW
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable estab-
lishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed brick and
wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural of Krakw
in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of family and
guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable and classy
dining environment. Serving Polish standards including cream
of wild mushroom soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features
more meat than youll find at a livestock market, with deer
and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well. Our shred-
ded pork wrapped in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce
left us more than satisfied, but the true standout was the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread - maybe the
best weve tasted in Krakw. For those stricken with food
allergies, this is one of the only places in town to offer gluten-
free meals, to which their menu dedicates a page. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (21-100z). PTAXS
Pod Wawelem C- 5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26- 29, tel.
(+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. The
pl ace to vi si t i f youre l ooki ng to hi t your dai l y cal ori e
quota i n one meal . Huge por ti ons of acceptabl e food
hel ped by enormous amounts of veg, cascade of f
the steel pans and wooden boards theyre ser ved
on, whi l e uni formed staf f weave bet ween the bench
seati ng ser vi ng frothi ng stei ns of l ager. Great for
groups and fami l i es, ki ds have thei r own l arge rum-
pus area, whi l e the grown-ups soak up the beer hal l
atmosphere shouti ng over energeti c l i ve fol k musi c.
Li tre beers are encouraged and hal f-pri ce on Mon-
days, and theres a handy vomi tori um i n the mens
room - i . e, t wo enormous steel basi ns for those suf-
feri ng from over- consumpti on to hock thei r recentl y
i mbi bed pork hocks. Q Open 06: 30 - 10: 30, 12: 00
- 24: 00, Sun 06: 30 - 10: 30, 12: 00 - 23: 00. (20- 40z).
PTAUEGBSW
Polakowski D- 6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12
421 07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The defi ni -
ti ve l ocal di ni ng experi ence. Joi n the queue and order
bi g pl ates of pi pi ng hot food di shed up from metal
contai ners, before bussi ng your di shes to the wash-up
wi ndow. Choose from the l i kes of cutl ets wi th mashed
potatoes, spi nach or beet sal ad si des, soups, pi erogi
and other ti mel ess cl assi cs. Far bet ter than i t l ooks
or sounds, Pol akowski i s an edi tori al fave. Essenti al l y
an upmarket mi l k bar thi s pl ace has gone the extra
yard (or j usti fi ed the extra zl ot y) by addi ng a toi l et
and Engl i sh l anguage menu. Al so on Pl . Wszystki ch
wi t ych 10 (C- 4), ul . Mogi l ska 35 (K-2) and i n M1
( Al . Pokoj u 67) . QOpen 09: 00 - 22: 00. ( 8-18z ) .
PTA6GS
Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49
46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. Whil e Krakws
super-saturated restaurant market has seen pl enty of
tankings of late, the team behind the ever-popular and
dul y praised Mi d Malina continues to expand. Sister
eater y Marmol ada of fers del i ci ous l ocal Maopol ska
deli caci es, per fectl y prepared and fired for a few min-
utes in a large stone oven before arri ving at your tabl e.
Narrow, yet l ong and cavernous, Marmol ada uti l i ses
fl oral folk patterns, canopi ed ceilings, bi g timber tabl es
and poinsettas to create their uni que combination of a
comfortabl e l ocal atmosphere and l ow pri ces wi th great
food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down
from the ci tys most exclusi ve restaurant (Wi erzynek),
and you can l eave wi th a bi l l that l ess than hal f the
size. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z).
PTAUEGSW
Mid i Wino (Honey & Wine) C-2, ul. Sawkowska
32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl.
Champion dishes of tradi tional Polish fare in a setting
piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers and suits
of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost extra, and
youll need to explain clearly how you expect your meat
to be cooked; but the flair of the service, quality of the
food and fondness of the folk musicians playing full force
nearby create a fun atmosphere thats completely worth
being in. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (20-80z). PTAUE
BXSW
Mid Malina (Honey Raspberry) C- 4, ul. Grodzka
40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl.
Consi stentl y excel l ent meal s have seen Mi d Mal i na
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in
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RESTAURANTS
57
RESTAURANTS
Cracovian Cuisine, P-Z
Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawber-
ries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere in
the city; head to Pierogi Mr. Vincent or Zapiecek for a
more expansive selection.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (placki ziemniac-
zane) are very similar to Jewish latkes (i f that means
anything to you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served
with sauce, goulash or simply sour cream on top, placki
are a great hangover cure and youll find them on menus
everywhere. U Babci Malinys Placki po Wgiersku
is generally accepted as one of the most delicious and
highly-caloric meals youll ever have anywhere in your life.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: barszcz, urek and
flaki. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or
miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug
expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other
beverages with any winter meal, wed be surprised if you
can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Krakw. It doesnt
get any more Polish than urek a unique sour rye soup
with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in.
Our vote goes to Bar Smak but you also cant beat We-
seles batch eaten out of a breadbowl. If youre of strong
constitution and feeling truly adventurous, spring for flaki
beef tripe soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices.
A hearty standby in most kitchens, we personally save the
pleasure for compromising situations involving mother-in-
laws, but you can take your chances at Chopskie Jado.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of urek generally draw the line here. An animal
fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we
say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec
is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any
traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you
lashings of this prior to your meal; weve had the best at
Pod Baranem, or buy your own at Krakowskie Kredens.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train station
in PL and youll get half a stale baguette covered with mush-
rooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted
with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However the
vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true
art out of the Polish pizza. With endless add-ons (including
salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta
you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard
procedure at this point. Because of their popularity youll
witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the
roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10z its a great value
and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave
town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be
felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Krakw.
Cracovian Cuisine, A-O
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uni formly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or milk bar in town, weve given you our
picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy camper
and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingre-
dients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic
and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically Bigos
translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in Polish.
Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and
the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Pol-
ish restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured
on the strength of their Bigos; weve had the best at Mid
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamils moms house.
Gobki
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army
gobki before a battle outside Malbork against the Teu-
tonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has been
attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster your own
courage at Pod Baranem or Kogel Mogel.
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a roadside
stand as youre driving through the countryside, but there
are a few places in Krakw that have proven peerless when
it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria where its served with
pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where the servings slip
right off the bone and are so impossibly large wed prefer
not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties
to watch for including Krakowska, a Krakw specialty
seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry
sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a
blood sausage filled with groats and pigs blood. These
youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head
to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski (see Late Ni ght
Eats) to get a taste of Krakws most famous sausage.
Two old-timers have been grilling and serving sausage
out of a van since time immemorial at this hallowed
sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
58
RESTAURANTS
59
RESTAURANTS
to Polish food...or who hasnt eaten in three days. Also with a
location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2). QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (12-25z). PTAVGS
Wentzl Magda Gessler C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel.
(+48) 12 429 52 99, www.restauracjawentzl.pl. In
the upstairs of a 15th century building on Krakws market
square (nice view, huh?), the Wentzl restaurant itself can
trace its history back to the 18th century, and added a
new chapter when PLs culinary first lady, Magda Gessler,
re-branded the restaurant in March 2012. Swapping dusty
oil paintings for fresh flowers, flowing curtains and pastel
colours, the new Gesslered interior is bright, full of energy
and looks a bit like an Easter egg year round. We prefer her
culinary sense: with a knack for elevating traditional cuisine
to new artistic heights, the menu features creative dishes like
crispy foie gras with strawberry salad and duck stuffed with
nuts on gingerbread. The flavours are wonderful and well
eat at Pani Gesslers table any time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(40-100z). PTA6UGBSW
Wesele C-3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,
www.weselerestauracja.pl. This warm, timber-framed,
two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market
square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommen-
dations, friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere.
If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name
wesele refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food,
love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish
wedding service, and if this place werent full of tourists all
the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think
youd actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z). PTAUEGBSW
Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) E-6, ul. w. Wawrzyca
12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.
pl. After spending decades completely abandoned, this old tram
depot (across from the Transportation Museum) has assumed
a second life as Krakws biggest brewery and beer hall. A large
complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia
sadly suffers for its size, however, and the impressive main hall -
which features the citys longest bar - has already been deemed
too impractical to open when there isnt a special event or group
reservation of less than 100 people. The smaller out-building
that presently serves as the main dining hall can still feel pretty
lonely without a large party on hand, but if you happen to be in
one, do bring it here. Flat screens are on hand for football and the
Spi porter, wheat, lager and honey ales do well to wash down
the ribs and other tasty traditional fare tailored to complement
the on-site brewed beer. Once that pops your buttons, dont
overlook the separate menu of single cask, single malt whiskies
- a first for Krakw - if you want to beat your friends in the race
to be first under the table. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (19-39z).
PTAUGBW
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sawkowska 17, tel. (+48) 12
422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Entering this
hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the corner
of Sawkowska and w. Marka streets, youll descend the
stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides if
you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden benches
slung with sheep hides. Youll be grateful to have garnered her
approval once youve tried the soups served in breadbowls
and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to make no mention
of the city-famous placki po wgiersku - an enormous plate
of potato pancakes smothered in goulash, cheese and sour
cream. With budget prices for outlandishly large and delicious
servings, this should be a go-to for anyone being introduced
Heaven! Fantastic food,
excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!
Maria - London
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul.
Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.hotel-
francuski.com. Taking the helm of the Francuski Hotel,
Polish star restaurateur Adam Gessl er has created one
of the most i mpressi ve and popul ar pl aces i n town.
Di ngy, unfi ni shed wal l s contrast wi th the ol de-worl d
over-the-top servi ce of whi te sui t-j acketed gentl emen
who ser ve ever ythi ng at your tabl e, even prepari ng
some of i t in front of you (like the laborious mincing of
the steak tartare), all whil e a pianist ti ckl es i vories in the
corner. The set three-course Espresso Lunch (served
Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00) is a fantasti c opportuni ty to ex-
peri ence hi gh soci ety inter-war el egance for a shocking
20z. As such, this place is packed and we are totall y on
board. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 24:00. (32-72z).
PTAUEGSW
Smakoyki B-3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12
430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. One of our favourites for
a while now, and its no fair keeping secrets, so weve finally
got our whistle out. Budget food isnt hard to come by in this
town, but when it does, its typically service and ambience
that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip,
trendy bistro has it all, from great coffee and tasty Polish
microbrews to simple, delicious Polish cuisine, all served
inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that
even features a mezzanine, piano and nifty wall art made
from pinned string. You wont find a better value on food in this
town, especially the daily specials inspired by world cuisine.
If you know how hard it can be to find a seat with a wall plug
and wifi that actually works in Krakw, youll also find that
Smakoyki is a great place to work. Heartily recommended
on all fronts. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-
17z). TA6EGSW
NEW
Wianki C-3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 696 47 51 85,
www.restauracjawianki.pl. The result of much preparation,
this high-profile tourist funnel and its sister venues Chianti and
Tresor spread their outdoor seating across most of the market
square between the Cloth Hall and the Town Hall Tower, thus
adding about 150 more prime sitting places to the Rynek in the
high season. Its all fine and lovely if you dont mind Krakws Joe
Satriani impersonator shredding guitar licks non-stop nearby; if
its your nerves hes shredding check out the nifty mezzanines of
the renovated interiors. The Polish incarnation of this Cloth Hall
complex may be the strongest, and is a perfect place to sample
local vodkas, meads and other alcoholic tinctures, including a
full card of strictly Polish wines (rare elsewhere). The menu is
mercifully short meaning the chefs have it down to a science,
the food comes out fast, and the service is well above the uncar-
ing standards of other market square tourist haunts. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (29-59z). PTAUGBW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:
according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was at-
tended by five kings and nine princes. Since then its been one
esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De
Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence the way the
globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and Kate
Moss. The immaculate interiors of original period furnishings,
tapestries, oil paintings and incredible timber ceilings arent too
dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle, and you can expect a
royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end menu is
based on the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy,
but it hasnt failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning
youll eat like a king and remember the experience - one you
could only have in Krakw - for quite a long time. QOpen 13:00
- 23:00. (38-135z). PTAEBXSW
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Polish Restaurant
Open: Sun-Thu 12.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00 - 24.00
a/ /amkomaka !3-!5 J+akm le/ !2 30-!-08 mmmcje+moneko+a/eea
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RESTAURANTS
61
RESTAURANTS
Pod Norenami B-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661
219 289, www.podnorenami.pl. Practised in the art of
Asian vegetarian cuisine and the metamorphic powers
of the soybean like no other place weve seen in PL, Pod
Norenamis long menu (too long i f were honest) features
tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astound-
ing variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan,
Thailand, Vietnam and China. While some Far East standbys
(curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) arent new to Krakw,
a true vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat
certainly is, and the results have got people packing this
place out and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate
the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual (much
like the prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch (much
unlike other Asian eateries). Do Krakws vegetarians
have it hard? Hardly. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (14-28z).
PTAGSW
Spdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-away ul.
Meiselsa 11, tel. (+48) 536 77 74 05, spoldzielnia.
org. In concept, Cooperative (as it translates to in English)
is an ambitious community initiative to promote a healthy,
organic, vegetarian lifestyle by supporting local organic farms
and creating more awareness about what we eat and where
it comes from. In action, its a crunchy vegetarian lunch bar
offering take-away wraps, stay-in daily specials and vegan
desserts that all follow the philosophy of the five transforma-
tions. Enjoy organic fair trade coffee and tea, local organic
beers and fresh squeezed juices in a modest interior with
paper bag lampshades and Manu Chau explaining his bongo
upbringing on the speakers. Find out what else the local
activists have on the agenda by dropping in Wednesdays
for film screenings in English and weekends for live music.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (12-20z).
T6VEGBSW
classic Kazimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and
square-side summer seating, Mynek also serves a smat-
tering of yummy vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus
and garlic bread, quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato
soup (l i ke gazpacho, but served hot). Sunday brunch
complete with live classical music between 13:00 and
15:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (16-23z). PTA6E
GBSW
Karma A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06
06 84. One of Krakws most forward-thinking l ocal es,
in addi tion to excell ent, free-trade cof fee and tea, this
modern cafe of fers a range of treats for those who
have embraced vegan or gluten-free li festyl es. All of the
outstandi ng baked goods, i ncl udi ng tarts, cakes and
cooki es, are made on si te, and dail y specials incl ude
deli cious vegetarian soups, stir-frys and curri es at great
pri ces. Theres even a breakfast menu, gi ving you every
reason to go earl y and often. For vegans, vegetarians,
and anyone who enj oys great cof fee, Karma is a must-
visi t. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
(15-23z). TA6GSW
Momo D- 6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57
75. A cheap and cheer ful vegetarian/vegan restaurant
churni ng out pl ates of brown ri ce, organi c vegetabl e
mashes, a good choi ce of sal ads, a few I ndi an and
Asi an di shes and even ki mchee. Popul ar wi th l ef t-
l eani ng school teachers, the wacky backpacker set
and peopl e that refuse to stop smi l i ng, Momos pri ces
remai n l udi crousl y cheap and the food i s both heal thy
and wor th comi ng back for. Tr y the excel l ent spi cy
sambar soup and don t forget to smother your food wi th
thei r coveted peanut sauce. QOpen 11: 00 - 20: 00.
(12-20z). T6UGS
Plac Szczepaski 8
31-011 Krakw
tel. +48 12 43 12 423
www.morskieoko.krakow.pl
morskieoko@morskieoko.krakow.pl
Morskie Oko Restaurant located at Szczepaski Square 8 in a beautiful
Art Noveau house of ers Polish Highland
atmosphere unique to Krakw.
T e delicious Polish regional cuisine, live folk
Polish music and unique wooden highland
interior will make you feel like in the heart
of the Tatra Mountains.
Zdybanka C-3, ul. Szczepaska 3/1, tel. (+48) 12
426 40 72, www.zdybanka.pl. This narrow, little restau-
rant may not look like much in a city saturated with Polish
restaurants, but the food tells a different story. Using local
products and updated seasonally, Zdybanka offers a large,
affordable menu of Polish and European fare with standouts
being the black pudding, sausages and grilled meats. The
afternoon lunch specials are a great bargain at only 12-16z
(with a rare carafe of water included); you wont find cheaper
in the area. The simple white interior with traces of copper
and timber offers a touch of class, and the seasonal outdoor
tables practically put you on the market square. Not a bad
option at all. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
24:00. (11-49z). PA6UGBSW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12
421 92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran res-
taurant has survived the test of time and continues to serve
up consistently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks, steaks,
pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht - at suitably Ukranian
bargain prices. Small children running amok all over the gor-
geous courtyard garden further adds to the authenticity, but
may have you heading to their folksy cellar where pleasant
peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles of underappreciated
Ukrainian beer coming to your table. Try all fifteen varieties
and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl victim. QOpen 12:00 -
22:00. (12-80z). TAEGBS
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430
62 02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul.
Jzefa since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Corner Burger
"My favorite burger place in Krakow. Big, juicy burgers
just the way they should be... Mine had onion rings and
BBQ sauce on top, just perfect!"
Robert from Krakow, Poland
Aqua e Vino
"Hi, booked this online for our wedding anniversary and
was not let down. Fantastic food, greatatmosphere
and as for the vodka dessert...will definitely return on
our next trip."
James Kieran from Dublin, Ireland
Vis a Vis
"Having visted Krakow on many occasions with many dif-
ferent friends we always make for Vis-a-Visfor a drink. Price
is not really a concern, when you pay 4 pounds (20 pln) at
home. NOT as scummy as in the editorial. Never been told to
piss off by the locals unless you pinch their favourite table by
the entrance. Only downside is during the afternoon sitting
outside you are always in the shade. Maybe that's why the
beer is a few zlotys cheaper. Hope they still do their Bigos
and large beer for 10pln as they did last year. Maybe its 11
this year. See you there in August 2013."
Mal Lawrence from London
Have Your Say
63
CAFS
62
CAFS
Cafes
4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22, www.gelateria4d.com. Deli-
cious gourmet Italian coffee and ice cream on the first floor
of Galeria Krakowska. On offer are more than 70 (!) gelato
flavours and fruit sorbets, including some creative and ut-
terly adorable sundae creations for kids, plus pancakes,
bruschette, baguettes and other savoury eats. This modern
cafe in caramel and chocolate colours is the ultimate place
to recharge and treat yoursel f when shopping becomes
exhausting. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PA6UGSW
Bal K- 4, ul . l usar ska 9 (entr ance f r om ul .
Przemysowa), tel. (+48) 608 58 94 59. I f youre feel-
ing a bit sel f-conscious about being a tourist after visiting
MOCAK or Schindlers Factory, a trip to Bal will help restore
your street cred. Located literally right behind MOCAK, but
with a slyly hidden entrance (take your first left before the
museums), this stylish cafe, bar and brunch spot is part of
the first wave of pioneers pitching their tents in Zabocie
(that unseeml y, i ndustrial secti on of Podgrze). What
should be an obscure studio space has been turned into a
hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs, wooden
tables and white walls. At its best in the mornings with great
coffee and breakfast offerings (note the all-you-can-eat
weekend brunch buffet for only 15z), daily lunch specials
accompany soup, sandwiches, quiche and a good beer
selection. Essentially the antithesis of everything in the
Old Town, with Bal Krakws young creatives are marking
their territory. Find it and find out. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
A6UGBSW
Bococa H-2, Pl. Inwalidw 7, tel. (+48) 12 359 61
65. This small NYC-inspired cafe/bistro is a great place
to start the day or get some work done, offering all the
(heretofore locally unheard of) hallmarks of a good brunch
spot: delicious coffee, good sweets and healthy eats, fine
wines and great bottled from Belgium, the UK and PL,
vitamin-rich veggie cocktails and shakes, reliable wi fi, and
(drum roll, please)...even mimosas! As soon as you walk in
the door, you can tell: this place gets it. Featuring a sharp,
black and white interior of exposed bricks and fixtures, the
Pl. Inwalidw location is a bit off the beaten track, but easily
accessed by tram and bus. Essentially a little slice of Green
Point (Brooklyns predominantly Polish neighbourhood),
here in Krakw; lets keep this ironic cultural exchange
going (more like this, please). QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. PTA6GSW
Cafe Sza C-3, Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 695 60
27 74. On the second floor of the renovated Cloth Hall,
Cafe Sza offers great views of St. Marys Basilica and
the market square from its large terrace, but dont be
surprised i f youre asked to pay 2z for the privilege, even
i f youre ordering something (Welcome to PL!). Aside from
that annoying policy (which is in place to keep museum
tourists from swarming the deck), this is a clever spot for
a romantic dessert date or snapping some stellar photos,
and youll be happy to know the terrace is free to everyone
on Mondays, Sundays, as well as every day in the evenings
after the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery has closed (IYP
tip: during the day try sneaking around to see i f the second
terrace in the same location on the other side of the spiral
stairs is unlocked). The coffee, cocktails and cakes are all
solid, but its really the sunshine and amazing backdrop
that youre here for. Soak it up. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PAUGBSW
ul. Pawia 5, 31-154 Krakw
Galeria Krakowska (level -1 & +1)
tel. 12/628-73-22
4D Gelato Caffe
Gelato Caff
Few thi ngs i n li fe get a Pol e more ani mated than a
good dessert. Ranging from doughnuts and pastries
to a plethora of cakes and tortes, many of which have
come to be associated with particular holidays, Polish
desserts are known for not being too sweet and for too
often incorporating marmalade, gelatine or alcohol (in our
opinion, anyway). The classic Polish desserts we list below
can be purchased in any cukiernia (pastry shop) worth
its salt (or sugar, as the case may be) and many cafes.
Sernik
Polish for cheesecake, sernik is one of the countrys most
popular desserts and youll have a hard time convincing
any Pole youve been to their country if you dont try it.
Made with a sweet curd cheese (twarg) and served
cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with
raisins, gelatine or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family
has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these
delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers.
Szarlotka
Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world come
from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard served almost
everywhere you go. Made with shortbread, the apples are
typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon and cloves.
Kremwka
A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled
with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered
sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremwka was
popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who
made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about
eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice,
thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km
southwest of Krakw almost overnight.
Pierniki
Pol i sh gi ngerbread, or pi erni ki,
comes in many varieties, but the
most famous is Toruski Piernik,
which has been produced in the
northern town of Toru since the
Middle Ages. Slightly soft, chewy
and flavoured with honey, cinnamon,
ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg,
anise and lavender, these small
gingerbread cookies can be glazed
with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade.
Pczki
A tradition since the 1700s, pczki are so popular they
even have their own holiday Tusty Czwartek (Fat
Thursday) when everyone in PL fills their faces with these
dense deep-fried doughnuts. Typically filled with rose jam,
glazed with sugar and topped with candied orange peel,
pczki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main
difference being that Polands conservative tendencies
ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre
somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made
around trying to find.
Polish Desserts
Camelot C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421
01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collec-
tion of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors
pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local
stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less
than a city institution. An extensive menu features all-day
breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm lo-
cal liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the
most romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, descend to
the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully
strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot
cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
T6VGBSW
Cheder E-6, ul. Jzefa 36 (entrance from ul. Jakuba), tel.
(+48) 515 33 22 26, www.cheder.pl. Opened by the Jewish
Culture Festival Association in a former prayer house, Cheder
continues Kazimierzs obsession with its past, serving as a
Jewish cultural centre and cafe. A large open space with wooden
furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film screenings, concerts
and other events promoting Judaism; however its most impres-
sive resource is the in-house library of Jewish-related books,
many of which are in English. Whatever your relationship with
Israel, this quiet, non-smoking, wifi-enabled cafe is undeniably
one of the best places to work or study in town, with a delicious
cup of Israeli coffee served in a traditional finjan to guide you.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GSW
A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a ciga-
rette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western
countries where the direction of ones day seems to
superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good break-
fast, here in PL the notion of starting the day right with
a fortifying meal just hasnt caught on. In fact ask five
Polish working girls what theyve had to eat that day come
13:00, and you can bet at least three of them havent
had more than a cup of yogurt, claiming theyre just not
hungry in the mornings. Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as
you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear
not - they do exist and weve provided the details of the
best below. Smacznego, champ.
NEW
Alchemia od Kuchni ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882
04 42 99, www.alchemia.com.pl. One of the best
places in Krakw to start your day is now also the
same place you ended it. This modest addendum to
the legendary Alchemia bar has one of the most enticing
breakfast menus in town, including chorizo hashbrowns,
eggs benedict, eggs florentine and delicious American
pancakes, and coffee, juice or water is included in the
price (sorry tea drinkers). Really, the only downer is that
you have to get up so early to catch it; heres hoping
they extend their breakfast hours. Q Breakfast served
08:00 - 12:00. (12-25z). TA6UGSW
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2,
tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.com.
Early risers wont find any better place to start the day in
the Old Town than Charlotte, which offers great coffee,
fresh bread, pastries, a variety of breakfast sets and a
wonderful atmosphere from 7:00 (or 9:00 on weekends)
until they close. High ceilinged and full of natural light from
wall-length windows overlooking Plac Szczepaski this
is a great place to read the paper, open the laptop or
slowly unwind the day ahead of you. Q Breakfast served
07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (8-18z). TA6GBSW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. One of the best early menus
available in Kazimierz, Scandale offers bagels with genuine
Philadelphia cream cheese, proper English and American
breakfast sets and a variety of large, fluffy omelettes - all
at bargain prices. Try their sister site - Scandale Royal (Pl.
Szczepaski 2, B-2) - to happily go beyond bread, spreads
and meat for breakfast in the Old Town. Q Breakfast
served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-19z). PTAUBXSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422
22 77, www.manzana.com.pl. Arguably the best week-
end brunch in town. With outstanding ala carte options
like breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, pancakes with
maple syrup and bacon, and English or American style
fry-ups, you may not even be tempted by the breakfast
buffet featuring an assortment of meat and cheeses,
fruit and veggie salads, breads, beverages, musli and
more. Q Breakfast served 07:30 - 10:00; Sat, Sun
07:30 - 15:00. (14-29z). PTA6GSW
Moment Resto E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03
40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. Its Sunday brunch every
day in Moment where breakfast is served until 16:00.
Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English, Polish, French,
Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best bargains in town at
11-19z, including free refills of coffee or tea. Q Breakfast
served 09:00 - 16:00. (11-19z). PTAGBSW
Breakfast
Follow POLANDIYP on
64
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CAFS
Cukiernia Michalscy B- 3, ul. w. Anny 2, tel.
(+48) 12 426 49 27. The Michalscy brand is well-known,
i f not proli fic in Krakw and this enormous new locale
caddy-corner to the market square sees the firm flexing
its muscles a bit. Located in a former shopping centre
turned conference and banquet centre, Michalscys corner
is exactly that - merely a corner of the complex, but still the
largest cafe/sweets shop in Krakow. As such it has quite a
lot to offer tourists, especially those in large groups finding
it a challenge to fit everyone in elsewhere. Specialising in
coffee and cakes, youll find it full of families and tourists,
but theres still a good chance you can nab one of the
nice window tables looking out on the square and stick
a fork in some Polish desserts. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
PTAUGSW
Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12
422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Not so much a caf
as a lesson in local history. Established in 1895, it was here
that the Moda Polska movement was founded, with many of
the leading artists of the day choosing to take their libations
inside this grand looking venue. Decorated with stained glass
and artwork from the fin-de-siecle era this caf serves as
a favoured stamping ground for elder tourists in colourful
clothes, though the poker-faced nature of the staff limits
the appeal of return visits. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 23:00. PTAUEBXSW
Karma Coffee Roasters A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel.
(+48) 506 06 06 84. If you want to rate the best coffee
in Krakw, head to ul. Krupnicza. Karmas is fair trade from
Union Coffee - a small London roaster - and connoisseurs
will also note that its prepared with one of the best espresso
machines in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down).
But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks
set. Karma caters to a more modern, alternative crowd with
a range of vegan and gluten-free baked goods - tarts, cakes,
cookies and more - made fresh on site each day. Daily spe-
cials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-fries and curries
that will make you feel great about what youre eating, as well
as how little youre paying for it. With a full breakfast menu
to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place to
not just wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a
weekend location with a large garden in Kazimierz at ul. w.
Wawrzyca 9/2 (D-7, open Fri 12:00 -18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 17:00 only). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
TA6GSW
Mamy Cafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 20, tel. (+48) 12
422 06 65, www.mamycafe.pl. The name not only
refers to mothers, but literally translates to we have a
cafe - exactly describing the spirit of this hidden city cen-
tre sanctuary which goes out of its way to accommodate
parents with young children. The simple decor creates
an at-home atmosphere and helpful amenities include
high chairs, changing tables and privacy screens, plus
diapers and wet wipes behind the bar. Separate menus
are tailored not only to the taste of the little ones, but also
for pregnant mums and those with allergies. Kids have
plenty of toys and games, and in summer the outside
garden literally doubles the play space. Wifi-enabled so
you can combine business with childcare (if you have to),
theres really nothing they havent thought of to make
the job of being a parent easier. Take a break and take
advantage. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
21:00. TA6UGBSW
With the Little Ones
Konfederacka 4 A-7, ul. Konferderacka 4, tel. (+48)
12 266 00 90. If you find yourself in Dbniki - the neglected
neighbourhood across the river from Wawel - dont miss
this outstanding cafe/wine bar/bistro. Though obscurely
located, whoever rather bravely identified the potential of
this place has a great eye. Simply, but smartly designed,
the cosy front room of exposed bricks and unfinished floors
doubles as a gallery, while the fabulous back room features
large warehouse windows overlooking ivy-covered walls, an
entresol that gives the impression of a NYC lofted apartment,
and a large white-tiled oven underneath which belies the
buildings actual history as an old bakery. Taking the term
open kitchen to a new level, the stove is right amongst
the tables so the cooks literally works amongst the clients.
With delicious coffee, a nice wine and cheese selection and
great breakfast, dinner and desserts, this is a great place
to drop in any time of day - a statement which the friendly
neighbourhood cat who comes and goes surely agrees with.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GBSW
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. A true labour
of love, filled with dusty shelves groaning under the weight
of thousands of titles with broken spines. This is not just
the best English language bookshop youll ever find in East-
ern Europe, but also an atmospheric caf where budding
playwrights convene for muted whisperings and American
cookies, bagels, pies, the best drip coffee in town, and now
wine thanks to the recent opening of a comfy wine room.
Ground zero for ex-pats, the bulletin board is an important
community rallying point. A requisite pilgrimage point for
foreigners; dont miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
47 71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this
local classic located inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the
hundred-year of Krakws highs and lows since it opened
in 1910. Famous as the place where Comrade Lenin would
read the papers during his visits, WWII occupation later
saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs,
before the family-owned business was taken away by the
communist authorities, only to be returned in 1991. Things
have changed little in terms of style and service since then,
making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by
well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but the
exquisite art nouveau interiors by Jzef Mehoffer are among
the most decadent in town and well worth a look. Youll find
cheaper and better coffee in the city but it wont be served
to such an atmospheric backdrop. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
TAGBSW
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Krakw hotels, Royal Art Cafe
is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel that
houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows over-
looking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help you
start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can catch
some sports or world news in English. But Royal Arts biggest
draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind the bar
which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen the collar
at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Satori Cafe-Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 25, tel. (+48) 12
349 07 24, www.satori-cafe.com. This charming little
hideaway in Kazimierz has all the hallmarks of a great cafe:
good coffee, lots of natural light, modern retro furnishings,
shelves crammed with books, soothing music and a simple
menu (in English even!) of tasty homemade pastas and
delicious desserts, including a decent attempt at carrot
cake. Ideal for work, study and even lunch, Satori has the
feel of a classic local hangout, and though were not from the
neighborhood, its all too easy to feel at home here. Delightful.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. A6GBW
Sky Bar C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. The
cherry on top of the impeccable Hotel Stary, this seasonal
cafe has all the class youd expect from this outfit, not
to mention the best views of the market square youll
get without borrowing the personal aircraft of one of the
guests here. For coffee and dessert or even a light lunch
in a relaxing atmosphere, you really cant do better. One of
the Old Towns best seasonal spots. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
TA6UXSW
Tektura A-2, ul. Krupnicza 7, tel. (+48) 516 14 12
59. Seemingly transplanted from Brooklyn, Tektura once
and for all confirms ul. Krupnicza is the Old Towns coolest
street, while giving the nearby Karma a challenge for the
crown of Krakws best cup of coffee. A point of pride for
the baristas, in addition to being espresso experts, the
staff also operate alternative AeroPress and Chemex cof-
feemakers and are up for any kind of coffee challenge you
can give them - with amazing results. Theres an entire shelf
of enticing microbrews, a cocktail list and full range of fresh
sandwiches, breakfasts and sweet baked goods to boot.
Sporting a hip, urban, industrial-chic interior of unfinished
brick and concrete, with an eco-angle accomplished by stools
made from coiled recycled cardboard, Tektura also provides
plenty of outlets to laptoppers, reliable wifi, boardgames and
basically everything you could ever ask from a cafe/bar. We
hope the competition is taking notes. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. PA6GBSW
Lunch, or obiad in local parlance, has always been
the primary Polish mealtime in a feeding schedule that
generally bookends small bites for breakfast and din-
ner around this laboriously prepared afternoon feast.
A typical polski obiad includes soup, meat and salads,
followed by something sweet. However, going out to eat
the traditionally home-cooked meal has never been a
popular Polish practice, unless its to a budget cafeteria.
As such, youd usually find all of the citys finest restau-
rants with empty dining rooms until the onset of dusk.
Taking their cues from Warsaw, however, the trend of the
budget lunch deal has now reached Krakw and many of
the citys best restaurants are now strategising to fill their
seats by offering multi-course meals in the afternoon at
prices that are a fraction of what you would pay a la carte.
As such, its a great way to enjoy some of the citys most
elegant establishments without breaking the bank or feel-
ing out of place. Youll notice offers for two-or-three course
set meals priced from 15-30z (4-7 Euro) all around the Old
Town, and weve listed some of the best offers below. Bear
in mind that these are not budget restaurants, but special
day-time offers from restaurants that might otherwise be
out of the price range of some, and that the prices rarely
include something to drink. Smacznego.
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Consis-
tently rated one of the best restaurants in town, Amarone
gives you a great opportunity to dine in style on little more
than nickels and dimes every weekday afternoon. Their
excellent, elegant five-course sampling menu is not only
a fantastic value for only 50z, its also one of the most
satisfying ways to spend a rainy day that we know of,
and you wont be needing a proper dinner later either.
Proceed straight to the bar of your choice. Efficiency! Q
Lunch served Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00.
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. More than just offering a set
meal every day, Aperitif has its own lunch menu with an
array of options including the daily special, plus a tasty
club sandwich, chicken burger, a variety of hot wraps and
more. A soft drink is included and the prices are 9-25z.
A great choice if youre looking for a deal in an upscale
restaurant and you arent in the mood for Polish food. Q
Lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00.
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422
06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Once patronised by European
royalty, every day this veteran Rynek restaurant offers a
set lunch menu of traditional Polish fare - soup, entree,
dessert for 29z. Q Lunch served 12:00 - 16:00.
Mid i Wino C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12
422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Drop by this above-
average medieval theme-restaurant in the afternoon for a
set three-course meal of soup, entree, dessert and kom-
pot to drink for only 25z. Q Lunch served 12:00 - 16:00.
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul. Pijar-
ska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.hotel-francuski.
com. Drop in during lunch to get the Gessler treatment for
next to nothing. Though called the espresso lunch, this is
hardly a quick meal as diners enjoy the soup and entree
of the day, plus kompot - stewed fruit tea - and a choice
of desserts, over what can easily become a languid hour
spent feeling like youre spoiling yourself. For only 20z its
a great idea for a fun, shockingly cheap date and highly
recommended. Q Lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Lunch
67
NIGHTLIFE
66
NIGHTLIFE
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the highest
density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars can be
found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to
Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are the
thousands of tourists that flock to Krakw every year, and with
higher tourism comes higher prices: expect to pay 7-10z (2-3
Euros) for a large beer. The opening hours we list are flexible;
basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is
a list of recommendations depending on what youre looking for.
Bars & Pubs
Antycafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88,
www.antycafe.pl. As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe
a hipster haven, since mocking hipsters is more hip than being
one these days, we wouldnt want to do this fine establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends of
this 30m long anti-caf, youll find candlelit nooks, eccentric
art, great music, and a very cool vibe indeed. True to its name,
the alternative atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than a
quaint caf, and with a great beer selection and one of the least
ostracising smoking sections in the Old Town, youve all the more
reason to occupy a table. If you can find a free one, that is. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PBXW
Beer Gallery - Luxury D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 30, tel. (+48)
601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. If you arent yet familiar
with Belgian beer, hurry yourself to Beer Gallery Luxury for an
education. Specialising exclusively in Belgian imported brands,
the knowledgeable staff are ready to tell you all there is to know
about the 150 bottles in stock (also available to-go) and the 8
types on draught, as well as letting you sample the latter. Rather
than price each label individually, Beer Gallery offers every bottle
at an average price of 10z. Not only does this make it easier, its
also cheaper than youll find at the shop and true connoisseurs
may even recognise the opportunity to game the system. While
little more than a hole-in-the-wall, this Belgian beer library with
its encyclopaedic menu is the only place of its kind in the country
and a great place to try some of the best beers in the world while
duly impressing your date. Also at ul. Dominikaska 3 (C-4) and
ul. Warszauera 10 (E-6). QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PUGBW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2/1, tel. (+48) 782 60 19 99.
In almost no time at all, this small bar has managed to establish
itself as a cult hangout thanks to a simple concept few places
follow anymore: good music and good people equals good times.
Unpretentious with an interior of unfinished wood, brick walls and a
small upstairs balcony level with a great view of Plac Szczepaski,
the solid gold playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-
hop and pop. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. AEBXW
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48)
12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.com.pl. To get the most
out of Budda you need to visit in summer when adjoining
courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco dance arena.
On those chillier evenings make for one of the two the warmly
lit crimson interiors on either end of the courtyard, the one
on the right being the better of the two. Here, drinkers down
potent concoctions under the conceited gaze of gold buddhas
illuminated by hundreds of flickering candles. Check out the
unique mezzanine level for something a little different, while
couples suffering a lull in their relationship should choose a
cozy nook and study the wall paintings of randy Indian figures
entwined in Kama Sutra embraces. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAUBXW
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikoajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68,
www.bullpub.pl. What the Great British Pub once looked
like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops,
Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
f7ZREDUV
f3RROf'DUWV
f6.<z79
(All matches shown)
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded rst place for quality in
Polands Guinness Competition.
be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces,
booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit
associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance
of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an
EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which
would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe
a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABXW
Bunkier Cafe (The Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a,
tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Attached
to Krakws best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed
terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious green-
house wherein the plants have been replaced with couples,
happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private
lessons around wobbly tables and chairs. A year-round
pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkiers inviting at-
mosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligible
table service that cant be circumnavigated. QOpen 09:00
- 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. A6UBXW
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25
05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. On top of being Krakws
primary microbrewery (serving rather palatable Light, Ginger,
Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going
for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper
brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit
for a viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian
potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower
with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the
downside being that what could be an elegant, even so-
phisticated, beer cellar has become a rather loutish lads
bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad
company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes
aggressive local boys. Shame indeed. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PABXW
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12
429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and
bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which
is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily
self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of
smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown
here its hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and
youre guaranteed to become a character in at least two
unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back
then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink,
we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory
days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. GBW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Sit back enjoying
your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and
Cloth Hall from Hard Rocks split level glass bar. The chaps
here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces
can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern
museum curators. Not the cheapest place in town, but one
of comfort for many. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
02:00. PAUGBW
House Of Beer D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul.
Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.houseofbeerkra-
kow.com. House of Beer may be the best of the bars improving
the beer culture of Polands drinking capital, with over 200 bottles
and 18 draught beers on hand in this high ceilinged pub full of dark
wooden furnishings and large leather sofas. Full of foreigners and
locals alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly lad-
dish, or having the unnecessary and all too common distraction
of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be a bit
pricey so find out what the damage is before asking the barman
to uncork one, or try the more local ales on draught for more of
a bargain. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. PAGW
ELITE: Those who want the sexiness of a strip club, with-
out the laddish antics or dodginess should try Stalowe
Magnolie or Burlesque - discerning clubs that keep it
classy while evoking sultry inter-war ambience. Movida
and Shakers are finalists for the best cocktails in Krakw
debate, while Diva and Taawa are the most upscale clubs
in the Old Town and Kazimierz, respectively.
STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic,
students will go anywhere theres fun music and cheap
drinks - namely Gorczka, Ministerstwo, Spoem or
the legendary Kitsch, while those with more intent to
impress head to Frantic and Cien.
LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish MBassy - where
matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can
try the local institutions known as Kitsch and Prozak.
Alternatively, head to CK Browar for a rowdy beer hall
that brews its own, or sample upwards of 150 Polish and
foreign ales at House Of Beer.
COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should go
tipple tasting in Beer Gallery - Luxury, snuggle in a cosy
loft at wita Krowa, soak up the karma sutra ambience
of Budda Drink & Garden, converse by candlelight in
Mleczarnia or stay home and listen to Barry White.
ALTERNATIVE: Take your tight pants and non-prescrip-
tion specs to Miejsce, Bomba or Forum Przestrzenie,
your photography portfolio to Pauza, your unfinished
novel to Dym and your sel f-destructive side to Klub
Pikny Pies or Rozrywki 3.
Nightlife at a Glance
Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than
sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in your
hand, recounting the events of the night before, making
half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft art projects
youll never follow through with. In fact some people seem
to have made a living out of such blissful idleness (theyre
called ex-pats). While all of Krakw may seem like a beer
garden in the summer months, contrary to the evidence in
front of you, it is not legal to drink in public spaces, whether
its the Planty, the Wisa riverbank or elsewhere. Nor should
you need to. With more bars per capita than any other city
in Europe, suddenly every single one has a garden full of
patio furniture the moment the sun comes out. So which to
choose? Most foreigners will keep to the market square
(C-3), and while the views and vibe are super, youll find that
every establishment on the market square charges 50%
more for beer. Krakws courtyards are more exciting and
one of the best is Buddha Bar (Rynek 6) where DJs spin
records under the stars through a narrow passageway
across from the Mickiewicz monument. Other Old Town
notables include Bunkier - a positively huge terrace on the
Planty (Pl. Szczepaski 3a, B-2), Klub Re (ul. w. Krzya 4,
D-3), and the popular nook known as Doubting Thomas
Lane (ul. w. Tomasza, C-3). Track down to Kazimierz,
however, to enjoy alfresco drinking at its finest - Plac
Nowy (D-6) is a no-brainer, though for the most scenic
garden head to Mleczarnia (ul. Meiselsa 20, D-6). Also,
dont forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - far less lively than the rest
of Kazimierz, but less grubby as well and catches sun later
into the evening. For riverside drinking head straight to
Forum Przestrzenie - one of the hippest locales in town.
Beer Gardens
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NIGHTLIFE
Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431
02 21, www.irishmbassy.com. Cheekily stationed in the
midst of Krakws embassy row, the massive Irish MBassy
is a popular place for weekenders and expats to get their
passports punched and forget where they are. Numerous
TV screens beam down live sports over three stories of
original brick and gothic details, punctuated by sponsorship
signage, sports and Irish memorabilia. Absolute madness
during matches, the doe-eyed staff do well to keep track
of the orders fired at them, while a decent line of pub grub
- burgers and baguettes makes this a one stop solution
for a long night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
04:00. PAEXW
Klub Re D-3, ul. w. Krzya 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 08
81, www.klubre.pl. Your standard Cracovian cellar bar
in most respects, Re is a stand-out for two reasons. The
first is its success in bringing touring international acts to
Krakw: some of the citys most exciting and memorable
concerts happen at this small venue, including contemporary
indie bands from home and abroad. The second is its tree-
lined beer garden, which despite encroachment from the
neighbouring English Football Club, still ranks as one of the
best in town in the warmer months. Check the (Polish-only)
website for information on future events. QOpen 12:00 -
02:00. EBXW
Movida Cocktail Bar D- 3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 45 97, www.movida-bar.pl. After the
break-up of the ownership team, Paparazzi has changed
i ts name to Movi da, but kept the spiri t and i denti ty of
the place basically intact. A long, narrow space plastered
wi th candid pics of celebs practising their pout, Movidas
cocktail l i st i s second to none and thi s remai ns fi rst
choi ce for anyone looking to clinch deals over invi gorat-
ing concoctions fi xed by a team of specialists. Two TVs
pl ayi ng sports and Gui nness i n the fri dge add to the
overall appeal of this cel ebration of cel ebri ty. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00. From September open 13:00 - 01:00.
PAUXW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18 (1st floor), tel. (+48)
12 422 48 66. One of the trendi est dri nki ng dens i n
the Ol d Town, head to thi s unmarked fi rst fl oor bar to
feel l i ke youre i n the know. Ful l of styl i sh hai rcuts and
sexy dresses, Pauza twi ns as a photography gal l ery
wi th per fectl y il l umi nated hi gh-qual i ty exhi bi ti ons, mak-
i ng the hi psters feel j usti fi abl y art-smart. Furni shi ngs
are modern wi th l ow l oveseats and stool s and some
envi abl e tabl es i n the wi ndows overl ooki ng Fl ori aska.
Despi te an atroci ous queue for the toi l et and typi cal l y
trendy house musi c, thi s i s one of the best hangout
spots i n the Ol d Town. The tenement i ts i n represents
a veri tabl e house of cul ture wi th a ci nema and gal l ery
on the upper fl oors and di ngy cl ub i n the basement
bel ow. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00,
Sun 12:00 - 02:00. ABXW
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel.
(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl.
After a coupl e of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubl ed
i ts capaci ty, the upstai rs has been beset by some fake
bri ck fi ni shi ng and bri ghtened a bi t, and though i t may
have l ost some character, general l y i t now feel s l ess
l i ke youre doi ng your dri nki ng i nsi de an ephysemi c l ung
than previ ousl y (not a bad trade-of f). Over two l evel s
ful l of wooden fi t ti ngs, I ri sh bri c-a- brac, a bi l l i ards
tabl e, darts, pl asma screens streami ng sports, fresh
baked pi zza and pi nts of Murphys, Gui nness, Ki l kenny
and Stowford Press ci der, Pod Papugami has a fri endl y
soci abl e atmosphere bel oved by l ads and gentl emen
alike. A great place to meet peopl e and find out j ust what
exactl y the crai c is, PP actuall y captures everythi ng we
l i ke about bei ng i n an I ri sh bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PA6UBX
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.
somepl ace- el se.pl . Ni ne pl asma screens for l i ve
sports, fri endl y staf f and a qual i ty menu of bar eats
that steers towards the Tex-Mex end of the spectrum
make SPE an easy pl ace to wi tness your down ti me
overpower whatever i ti nerary you thought you had i n
Krakw. The l i st of worl d beers goes above and beyond
the usual choi ce of l ocal l i qui ds, and the Ameri can i nte-
ri or is a combo of Yank road si gns and pi cs of rocknroll
heroes. Though not open l ate, thi s l ow-key expat and
i ti nerants bar i s sti l l your best bet for convi nci ng the
staf f to hel p you watch your favouri te MLB, NFL or NBA
team i n acti on. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. PAUGW
Spazio D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9 (corner of ul. Szpitalna
and ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 29 48, www.
spazio-bar.pl. This sleek coffee and cocktail bar is an
ideal place for an early evening/after work drink, thanks to
an excellent design and extensive list of alluring libations.
Unwind in the window or recline in the mezzanine with one of
their creative (albeit pricey) Prosecco or whiskey cocktails.
A small selection of sandwiches and sweets are also on
hand in this stylishly modern, subtly upscale lounge where
every detail has been carefully considered, from the bath-
room doors to the smiles on the bargirls. QOpen 08:00
- 04:00, Mon, Sun 08:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 02:00.
PAUEGBW
wita Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriaska
16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Perhaps the most enchant-
ing and laid-back bar in the Old Town, wita Krowa is an
intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight,
cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small,
soulful brick cellar off Floriaska, The Holy Cow inhabits two
oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned
stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure
a range of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this is
the perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an opium
nap). We miss the terrarium, but wita Krowa is still a highly
recommended cult hangout. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 04:00. XW
Vi s a Vi s C- 3, Rynek
Gwny 29, tel. (+48) 12
422 69 61. Perhaps the only
space on the Rynek to survive
Krakws tourist boom with its
scummy integrity intact, Vis a
Vis is a timeless local favourite
happy to tell foreigners to piss
off while indulging pensioned
Polish drunkards until their
heads hit the beermat. Sadly
forced to inflate to 9z a pint,
this is still one of the cheapest
drinks on the Rynek, making
its seasonal outdoor tables
the first you should look for a seat in before sending your
most competent compatriot to fetch a drink inside the small
stool-laden bar where watching the local barflies makes for
an intriguing social study. One of the few remaining remnants
of the real Krakw that the Rynek has left. Q Open 24 hrs.
UGBW
Lizard King C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48)
601 69 20 32, www.lizardking-krakow.pl. Follow-
ing their success in other Polish cities, Lizard King has
brought music to the masses of Krakw, largely other-
wise deprived of a proper rock venue. Expect paid entry
to see their nightly noisy Polish rock acts, plus expensive
beer and cocktails that do nothing to dent its popularity.
An abundance of balconies and tables leading to a large
stage with an old-school LED display pixelating behind it
make up the head-banging burnt sienna interior. Arrive
early or reserve a table if you have more than a passing
interest in the evenings performance. Q Open 18:00 -
02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Concerts generally start
at 21:00. PAEXW
PiecArt C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 64
25, www.piecart.pl. The most attractive of Krakws
jazz dens, and as such a honey pot for pompous, preened
jazz know-it-alls. The vaulted interiors make for great
acoustics and frequently attract the biggest names in
the city during evening concerts, but stand warned about
the rife snobbism of punters and staff alike. Live jazz
concerts take place almost every night but you should
check their website for the exact schedule. QOpen
19:00 - 01:00. PAEXW
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2,
ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.
stalowemagnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a 1920s
Parisian brothel, the interior of this legendary venue is an
appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with
jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of red fairy
lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments
cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses in eve-
ning dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The
live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced
chanteuses crooning into the night to the appreciative
applause of sharply attired couples and Rolexed busi-
nessmen. A club card gets you into the VIP section with
its own DJ station and bar, where plush, silk-canopied
beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A pet
project from the same team behind Stalowe Magnolie,
so expect much of the same. The interior is a sensory
delight washed in red, with plush loveseats, scattered
cushions, exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined
with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is matched
perfectly with live piano and jazz performances. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PAEGB
U Muniaka C-3, ul. Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 530
69 05 29, www.umuniaka.pl. Find one of Krakws
most legendary jazz clubs at the bottom of a flight of
stairs in a 14th-century cellar just seconds away from
St. Marys Cathedral. Unchanged in years, though the
names on stage may have fallen off the cutting edge
and its now mostly clogged with tourists, U Muniaka is
still a no bullshit jazz venue: pay the no bullshit waitress
(10-20z depending on the night), take a seat and hear
some no bullshit jazz music. The acoustics are great,
the atmosphere intimate and attentive, and dont be
surprised by unannounced appearances by legends like
Nigel Kennedy or Jarek mietana. Enthusiasts shouldnt
be disappointed. Concerts nightly from 21:30. QOpen
19:00 - 02:00. PEGW
Live Music
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NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
Wi t h r oughl y 120, 000
students and a growi ng
touri st i ndustry eggi ng i t
on, Krakws cl ub scene
conti nues to expand be-
yond reason, wi th each
successive offing trying to
out-swank its predecessor.
The main hedonist high streets are Floriaska (C-2/3)
and Szewska (B-3) where narry a medi eval cellar will
be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or
Saturday night. Dont be surprised to encounter weekend
cover charges rangi ng anywhere from 5-20z at most
venues, and dont expect to find toilet paper in any of
them after 22:00. Clubs in the Kazimierz district appear
in their own section.
Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67
60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the velvet rope
of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of
money has been spent on making this arguably the most
stylish and extravagant music club in Krakw. Covered in
plush upholstery and full of fine touches including every
elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station,
and even a room with a dance-pole and wall-size mirror that
can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly raises the bar
on Krakws nightlife scene. Though theyve since added a
smoking room, this swanky swish tank was the first to go
completely non-smoking in the days of the dingy Krakw
cellar club, which might explain why it still looks as great as
ever. Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00. Q Open Thu,
Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
base music club B-3, ul. w. Anny 6 (entrance from ul.
Jagielloska), tel. (+48) 883 93 00 03, www.baseclub.
pl. Long gone, it would seem, are the days when youd just
throw some chairs in a basement, some beer in a fridge
and call it a club. Base continues Krakws current cash-
on-the-cuff club trend by pimping a spectacular 400 square
metres of cellar space into another posh pleasure den, this
one directly across from the ancient attic where Copernicus
about-faced the field of astronomy almost 500 years ago.
Full of fluctuating colours, padded bricks and reflective floors,
Base features four distinctive bars in four aesthetic styles,
two air-conditioned dance floors where DJs slice and splice
the latest sounds, and the obligatory VIP section occupying
the ground floor. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed,
Sun. PAXW
Burlesque C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana 1 (The
Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 694 44 01 90, www.
burlesqueclub.eu. Located in the cellars of the market
squares 16th century Bonerowski Palace, the main draw of
this intimate dance club with silk-draped ceilings innovatively
strung with illuminated strands are the cheeky burlesque
performances that take place Friday and Saturday after mid-
night, when the clubs resident dancers take to the elevated
stage in skimpy 1930s cabaret attire and tease the howling
crowds with dance routines that stop short of stripping,
but certainly leave little to the imagination. Its an intimate
experience and one that carefully treads a line of being just
classy enough to bring the wife to. Despite the face police at
the door, once youre downstairs its less intimidating than
youd expect with fun music and an atmosphere that isnt
too snobby for students or too grubby for gentiles. Actually,
its a hell of a good time. Tables are limited, so reservations
would be wise. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 04:00.
PAEXW
Cie (Shadow) C-2, ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. One of Krakws best
regarded clubs for several years running, Cie is a wet
dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial house music
and enjoying favourable exchange rates while being fawned
over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of their sex
appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone num-
bers under the interrogation lamp of the dawn, but witness
yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing than truly
exclusive, as long as youve made the effort to look the part
and can stand up straight, your impatience with the door
queue is probably the most likely thing to keep you out of
Cies medieval cellars. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAXW
Coco Music Club D-2, ul. Szpitalna 38, tel. (+48)
12 429 69 83, www.clubcoco.pl. Across from Sowacki
Theatre in the space formerly occupied by Midgard, Coco has
come and glammed the place up a bit with creme-coloured
sofas, plenty of mirrors and pointless TVs, but with hal f
the club given over to smokers, it doesnt take long for the
primary design features to seem like cig burns and sticky
floors. When the music is more interesting and challenging
early on, the sexy crowd sometimes seems at a loss; however
this popular student club really takes flight after midnight,
with a heady mix of locals and foreigners mingling on the
dance-floor and around the booths until early morning. A
solid bet for a successful night out. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEXW
Diva Music Gallery C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 20, tel.
(+48) 12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.pl. A young fashioni-
stas idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels: the sexy
cellar club full of disco balls and laser beams, leather divans
and scantily-clad sirens beyond the red velvet rope, and the
new ground floor cocktail lounge for those who dont make
it past the pretentious face control. The former makes for a
fun place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between
pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while
the latter is a better daytime destination for being seen
with an expensive cocktail before swanking off to your own
sel f-image in one of the many mirrors suspended on the
walls. On weekends prepare to dispense some cash to get
downstairs.QOpen 21:00 - 05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00.
PAEBXW
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83,
www.frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in what
asserts itself as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets.
The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough
exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes,
but the soundsystem lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pajamas. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PAXW
Gorczka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 12
421 92 61, www.klubgoraczka.pl. Neatl y l ocated at
the nexus of Krakws clubbing corri dor, Gorczka has
always been the sloppy, care-free, rebellious younger sis-
ter of the Szewska famil y, ready to break a bottl e, break
into tears or take of f wi th the first guy who invi tes her to
his place. Following a cheap make-up job/renovation, the
character of this place hasn t changed a bi t. Dodge the
queues next door, l ook ni ce and win entrance to this fun
meat-market full of eager ladi es making-out wi th their
dance partners and sweaty dudes wi th open shirts and
wanderi ng hands prowl i ng to the extremel y l oud, but
A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in
recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known
locally as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers &
Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some,
these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on commu-
nist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering
a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically
served cold) for about 8z each, with drinks typically fixed
at 4z. Familiar as the bar food of the lean communist
years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to
the Jeopardy question Foods that follow vodka and
typically includes ledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka
(pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles
and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license,
Zakski Przekski bars offer budget food and drink late
night and are a great place to meet the citys strangest
characters. We list the best in Krakw below:
Ambasada ledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel.
(+48) 662 56 94 60. Theres a vodka and led bar on
seemingly every corner in Krakw these days, and were
gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia for this fishy
fad. They were first, and if were judging by food, theyre also
the best. In case youre wondering, pickled herring (led)
is a delicacy in these parts in the same way that vodka
is local parlance for medicine. The two go great together
and for 12z its a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture.
The dive bar interior of graffiti scribbles makes The Her-
ring Embassy a hipster haven - one that stays crammed
with clients long into morning, and is evidently well worth
imitating. Theres also a tiny second location (May led)
in Kazimierz at ul. Boego Ciaa 11 (D-6, open 10:00 - 02:00,
Thu 10:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00). QOpen 08:00 -
05:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 05:00. 6GBW
BaniaLuka B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 6, tel. (+48) 790
77 06 48. For those nights when you simply refuse to
let the party end, despite powerful objections from your
liver, wallet and better sense, BaniaLuka is there for you.
Open 24 hours, this rowdy bar has proven very popular
with the young folks, who dont seem to care that the
cheap beer and booze (4z) comes in smaller glasses (.4l
of beer, 40ml of vodka), and have decided that eating
questionable 8z soviet-inspired vodka snacks is now the
height of fashion. Though BaniaLuka is on par with the
best, youll find similar establishments on almost every
square in Krakw, so count out your zoty in increments
of four and treat yourself to an early morning vodka crawl.
Q Open 24hrs. PAUGBW
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-3, ul. w. Jana 3-5 (en-
trance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas
Lane, Pijalnias around the clock crowds make it hard to
miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street
urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried
and trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu
of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs
that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally. Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6). Q Open 24hrs. GW
Polish Snacks & Shots
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has you
covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over popular
nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and ul. Szewska
in the Old Town, the best of them is Pod Oson Nieba at
the corner of Plac Wszytkich witych and ul. Grodzka (C-4);
though with the low quality of Cracovian kebabs, thats not
saying much. Your options are actually better than that,
from all night pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring
bars that have sprung up all over town (see Polish Snacks
& Shots). Perhaps Polands most popular street food is
the zapiekanka (see Cracovian Cooking box for more)
and the best place to get one is out of one of the hatches
of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay
open until at least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the
only late night food spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z
Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. For more on
Krakws best late night eats, see below:
NEW
Alchemia od Kuchni ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882
04 42 99, www.alchemia.com.pl. After our own
reservations towards the very idea, we can gladly report
that this place really impresses. An extension of the
legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchnia
serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers,
vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fish pie,
Moroccan meatballs, samosas, curries and more. Open
late and open early (we set a special alarm in order to
experience their awesome breakfast), everything weve
tried has been great, essentially making od Kuchni our
favourite thing about Alchemia these days. The simple,
white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or
Copenhagens meatpacking districts, the prices wont di-
vest you of your beer money, and the service is light years
ahead of the bar next door. The team behind this place
obviously cares, rather than just cashing in on the loca-
tion and crowds; cheers to that. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (10-26z). A6UGSW
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski E-4, ul. Grzegrzecka
(Hala Targowa). This legendary sidewalk sausage stand
has been a Cracovian street food institution for the last
twenty years. Here two old boys in white smocks set up
shop outside their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every
evening except Sundays to grill kiebasa sausages over a
wood fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8z you
get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard
and an unforgettable experience. Dont miss it if youre in
the neighbourhood. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. This sexy lounge
and bistro has its own special late night menu served
from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty tapas dishes.
Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods like brus-
chetta, tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with garlic,
meat balls and a lot more. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:30 - 02:00. (8-23z). PAUXSW
Zapiecek Ekspres C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Join legions
of happy locals tucking into the legendary pierogi served
with no fuss, no formality by an unsmiling lady from be-
hind a counter. It is a long way from fine dining but for a
quintessential Krakw experience there are few better
places to come. Now open all night, its cheaper than a
kebab and a much better value when everything else is
closed. Q Open 24 hrs. (9-14z). AGS
Late Night Eats
72
NIGHTLIFE
73
NIGHTLIFE
proven dance hi ts that al ways keep everyones fl esh in
fri ction. I ts a playful atmosphere and youre guaranteed
to have a drink spill ed on you, but nonethel ess, youve
got every reason to feel bad about yoursel f i f youre
headi ng home al one. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 05:00. PAX
Kitsch C-3, ul. Grodzka 1 (first floor). After its original
complex was condemned, Kitsch has actually reopened in
two locations, with this building just off the market square
manifesting its more mainstream, meat market sensibili-
ties (with the legendary ubu-Dubu upstairs), and its more
local, alternative, LGBT affectations apparently moving to
ul. Dajwr in Kazimierz (along with Caryca). For those that
remember the outrageous old days, Kitsch 2.0 actually
bears a striking resemblance to its former self. Ascend the
stairs to find a fur-trimmed bar backed by the same kitsch
accoutrements - lava lamp, stuffed tiger, Santa Claus doll -
and suddenly youre having flashdance flashbacks of all the
mornings you spent straddling and spilling beer on sexed-up,
faceless strangers on the dark dance floor before following
someone outside only to be lost and leaning forward the
whole walk home. Right? Never a cover and never an off-
night, Kitsch now creates those beautiful memories for a
new crowd of shameless students and foreigners, so why
wait? Take one home tonight! QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel.
(+48) 12 421 12 17. A well-loved design in this subterra-
nean sinners resort features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed
rock, three bars, two DJ stations and raised seating areas to
retreat from the dance-floor action where an eclectic range
of funk, old school and break beats are likely to lure you. The
smell of Tabasco from mad dog shots lingers at the bar
where bronze ass-groping barstools give you a free frisking.
Always packed with students and party people, Ministerstwo
hosts the citys best midweek party on otherwise sleepy
Tuesday nights and the laid-back ground-floor garden (open
every day) is one of the best kept secrets in Krakw during
the warmer months. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 19:00 - 04:00,
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PABXW
Prozak 2.0 C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 6, tel. (+48) 730
06 63 80. Having gone from A-list to a miss and then just
completely missing, this well-known dance club has been
renovated and re-launched itsel f as Prozak 2.0. Once a
honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to pull from the pool
of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, Prozak
has used its absence to get out of most of the guidebooks
(not this one), back into the good graces of Krakws serious
clubbing scene, and onto the cutting edge with an impressive
line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior, while spruced
up a bit, hasnt particularly changed and remains an endless
maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible
four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The
crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly
as ever with the party continuing until the natural selection
of those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place
in the blurry light of another dawn. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00.
Closed Mon. PABXW
Rozrywki Trzy D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3. Essentially the
Pikny Pies of the Old Town, this somewhat inconspicuous
club near May Rynek draws a similarly diverse crowd of
curious tourists, eager students, aimless artists, hard-living
hipsters and acknowledged alcoholics. Split over two floors
with plenty of seating, smoking areas, a seasonal garden,
two bars, and a separate room that hosts frequent concerts
and DJ parties, Rozrywki 3 has wide appeal despite making
little effort. The furnishings attempt to be nothing more than
functional and theres no face control - getting out is a lot
more difficult than getting in. One of the best places in the
Old Town if youre looking for a long night full of spontane-
ous dancing, but actually dislike nightclubs. QOpen 18:00
- 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PEXW
Shakers Krakw B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel.
(+48) 660 11 40 34. Actually the name references the
cocktail twisting barstaff, but there are still plenty of shim-
mying posteriors in here. Shakers is your classic Cracovian
cocktail club: just snooty enough for the concept to succeed,
but not so up its own...shaker that you wont have a great
time. DJ nights range from funk to electro, with the action
happening on an intimate dancefloor between the bar and
posh toilets. Cocktails range from 14-30z and though the
list isnt that creative, the bartenders put on an impressive
juggling show. Violet walls, black booths with gaudy gold
pillows that match the round gold tables and the ubiquitous
FTV make up the decor of this velvet rope affair. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Wed. PAXW
Spoem C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 79
79, www.pubspolem.pl. Cheekily borrowing their name
from a cooperative network of shops prolific across Poland
during communist times (many of which are still open),
Spoems underground cellars are cluttered with communist-
era appliances and plastered with propaganda posters and
discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia also applies
to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch Polish pop/disco
parties held in the back room where the DJ station is cleverly
tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the dance floor packed with
fun-loving revelers young enough to enjoy the irony. I guess
you can count us among them, because we had a great time.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Gold Club B-2, ul. Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 510
74 50 64, www.goldclub.com.pl. If youre in Krakw
with the lads, chances are good that youre going to end
up in one of the citys strip joints and few can match Gold
Club. This veteran skin showcase has always been one
of Krakws best and most trusted, and its move to a
new space in the Old Town only means you dont have to
pay cab fare to get there, or feel like youre trapped once
you do. Chances are youll be getting comfortable rather
quickly with lap dances starting at 70z and large beers
for 15z. Groups are obviously catered to and encouraged
(they even suggest erotic dance lessons for hen parties),
and you can print a voucher off their website for 50% off
entry and your first drink. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. PAX
Taboo Gentlemens Club C-2, ul. Floriaska 33
(entrance from ul. w. Marka), tel. (+48) 12 426
26 06, www.tabooclub.pl. There was a time when
Krakows gentlemens clubs were relegated to the outer
limits and the grey areas of its urban grid (you know,
Dietla Street, around the train station). Whether you view
this as a good or bad thing, Taboo has been allowed to
set a new precedent by becoming the most centrally
located strip club in the Old Town. Find leather couches to
lounge on alongside ladies in lingerie, sculptures of naked
women holding up glass tabletops to set your drink on
and six curtained VIP rooms for privacy. Gone, it would
seem, are the days when the kebab stand was the sauci-
est stop on a Floriaska pub crawl and honestly, could
it really be Poland without Pole dancing? Also now at ul.
Szewska 21 (B-3). QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
Adult Entertainment
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mix-
ing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry-
flavoured variety. Youll see students and pensioners
alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless
tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement court-
yards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut
the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the
16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to
the primeval Biaowiea Forest that straddles the border
(a blade of which appears in each bottle), ubrwka is
faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown
hay and a subtle taste which has been described as
floral or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully
smooth as it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly
combined with apple juice a refreshing concoction
called a tatanka.
Polish Vodka
75
74
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
Eszeweria D-6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27.
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any
bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world antiques,
candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls
once played host to some of the citys most novel concerts,
however these days its more of a sleepy hang-out for hip
nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their
lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink
and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the restroom
may also be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a
queue) and they have a sister venue (Esze) across the street
if you cant find a table. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 05:00. BXW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in
Krakw - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series
of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who
look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food,
an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service,
this is modern Krakw at its strongest. You may not want
to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
PAUEBXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the owners
of a retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce
instantly established itself as Krakws hipster headquar-
ters. With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind the
bar themselves, here youve put yourself at the centre of a
closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized
spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if
thats the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps
of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white
walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly
original with a post-industrial artsy atmosphere that makes
a nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
districts other offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00
- 04:00. AUGBW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. In summer this is the most glorious beer
garden in Krakw, and right next to an easily recognisable
film set from Spielbergs Schindlers List. I f that parade
gets rained on, or you find yoursel f here during the dregs of
winter, take solace in the cross-street interior with its Old
World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky
portraits, wooden floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling
street-side windows (not to mention the enchanting bath-
room). A great place for a romantic evening conversation
or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what the whole of
Kazimierz was once about: taking things as they come.
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
04:00. A6UGBW
Moment E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00,
www.momentcafe.pl. From locals to tourists, laptoppers
to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and seem to
know how to please them all. Somewhat retro with low,
loungy sofas in splashy fabrics, and a great menu of bargain
breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of
entrees, Moment and similarly-styled not-distant neighbour
Nova Resto Bar (ul. Estery 18) have captured Kazimierz in
their time-stopping tractor beam (no surprise then that its
the same owners). In fact, Moments plethora of Plac Nowy
seating, evening drink specials and variety of inaccurate
vintage clocks lining the walls offer a handy excuse for miss-
ing your next day rendezvous with last nights club conquest.
Though this would certainly be an ideal place for it. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AGBW
Mostowa Art Cafe E-7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel. (+48)
519 75 40 55. This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/
bar is the linchpin in a raft of new venues that have turned
this quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian
bridge to Podgrze into one of the hippest places to hang
out these days. In warm weather the small interior of
white walls dressed in the underwhelming art canvases
of the month spills out onto the sidewalk as young people
compete for a place to pass the time drinking delicious
microbrews and homemade vodkas served out of a tiny
fridge. Goes to show, it doesnt take much, and whatever
it is - this place has it. I f you dont know, now you know,
hipster. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00.
AUGBW
Omerta D- 6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul.
Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.omerta.com.
pl. A cult hangout for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has
expanded to include more tables, a second bar and even
more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever to
resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired mafia
theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather,
Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the
best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign or
domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to hedge up
to and receive an impressive menu of almost 50+ ales broken
down by category and even ranked for you; discover the joy
of miodowe (honey beer) among others. Well-tempered
locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits are
inevitable and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 01:00. UGW
Singer D- 6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22.
One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for
all that was to come essentially inventing the evocative
aestheti c of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, ri ckety
antiques and candlelight associated with the district today.
Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
i t first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by
day, Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops
turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks
to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy,
klezmer, cel tic and swing music, the entire bar begins
to feel like a ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the
boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few
good ones here. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 -
06:00. PABXW
Staj ni a (The Stabl e)
D- 6, ul . Jzef a 12, tel .
(+48) 12 423 72 02,
www.pubstaj ni a.pl . Lo-
cated i n Kazi mi erzs most
phot ogeni c passageway
(i t played a starring rol e in
Spi el ber g s Schi ndl ers
List), this veteran establish-
ment of fers i dyl l i c outdoor
seating in the summer and
a somewhat pri cey menu of
l ocal dishes. The dim, rusti c
i nteri or of ti mber furni sh-
i ngs features a fi repl ace,
equestrian ephemera and a creepy red gl ow from the
red hanging lanterns. Get a taste of l ocal flavour late
ni ght when the musi c is deafeni ng and, like Si nger, i t
becomes a sill y dancing destination for ol der l ocals and
l ost I chabod Crane characters. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. PGW
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish
district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict build-
ings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area
that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and presto! - open
a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the spirit of
the neighbourhood. The district quickly became synonymous
with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight, antiques and bo-
hemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might
be able to commune with a lost, forgotten world beneath
the haze. As the areas clean-up, aided by the 1993 release
of Schindlers List, brought more and more tourists to its
historical sights, Kazimierz went through a renaissance that
saw it quickly develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood.
Today the area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and res-
taurants, even ousting the Old Town per square metre, and
though a trace of that original charisma vanishes with each
new cocktail bar opening, there is no better place in Krakw
for a night out. Kazimierzs history makes it a requisite stop
for tourists, but it is the districts nightlife that gives it its
true vitality and much of the mystique it still carries today.
Kazimierz Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Krakws most evocative
bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of
the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with
square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemias murky
mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regu-
lars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar
staff. The cellar, when its not being used as a student disco,
plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime
participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals. And now
theyve added a new dining room (Alchemia od Kuchni) where
they serve a full menu of excellent eats until 22:00 and drunk
food afterwards. Essential in every way. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00,
Mon 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. A6EBXSW
Artefakt Cafe E-6, ul. Dajwr 3, tel. (+48) 535 79 96
66, www.artefaktcafe.pl. This cult cafe/bar offers a wide
range of events and happenings that lure Krakws hipsters
and artists to its friendly confines like flypaper. With two
bars over two floors, the upstairs is your quintessentially
Kazimierz-cool hangout full of odd furnishings, broken-spined
books and a separate gallery space, while the downstairs is
plastered with theatre posters and features plenty of sofa
seating to observe whats going down on stage. While it
seems theres always something happening from concerts to
chess tournaments to comedy nights, even when theres not,
youve still got a great atmosphere, good people and Czech
beers on draught. In warm weather the good times often
spill out onto the street aided by the small garden, whose
separate entrance is actually a couple doors down. Recom-
mended. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PA6EGBW
Kitsch D-4, ul. Dajwr 16, tel. (+48) 518 87 90 55,
www.kitsch.pl. Since the collapsing stairwell incident
(shhhh...), Krakws legendary and flamboyant Kitsch
dance club has opened two new locations - one smack
on the market square, and this sloppy disco discreetly
hidden in Kazimierz next to the Galicia Jewish Museum.
While the market square spot is a proven and predictable
money-making tourist magnet meat market, it seems the
real fun/trouble has moved into this divey downstairs
club full of classic kitsch decor (fake fur, fluorescent
colours), with a large dance-floor and some sordid sofas.
The old Caryca has apparently come too (occupying the
separate upstairs bar) and when the seasonal garden is
in full swing, makes for quite the hip hangout. Krakws
most liberal and least bashful club, join its legions of
loyal fans letting loose of their inhibitions as dance-floor
brain damage ensues into the early morning. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 07:00. P6UBXW
Klub Pikny Pies D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 9. The
Beautiful Dog is back with new digs in Kazimierz - a boho
district that better suits this cult drink tank for unwashed
artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar vampires,
counter-culture cuties and hard-living hipsters. The layout
of Pikny Pies 3.0 is conscientiously similar to its last
incarnation: though a bit more cramped in the front, the
back room - with its second bar, stage, DJ station and
dance floor - is a big improvement over the old space,
and of course chain-smoking is encouraged. Some great
concerts and DJs on the weekends, while the same great
playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave
keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory
throughout the week. One of the best choices in Krakw
if you want a late night but not a nightclub, you can disre-
gard the hours because this place never closes. QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEXW
Literki E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 21, tel. (+48) 602
53 69 43, www.barliterki.pl. Down a strange alleyway
(which also leads to Goodbye Lenin Hostel) youll find this
eclectic club hidden in an old factory workshop. Embracing
the nature of the location, Literki is a huge industrial space
over two floors with a caged in balcony, a small dance-
floor/concert space with a thundering sound system, dark
lighting (indeed the brightest lights in the club illuminate the
drinks case) and some sharp iconic graphic art on the walls
depicting screws, gears and other recognisable industrial
garbage. With great Polish and Czech microbrews behind
the bar, this curious cult venue is definitely worth the trek,
but their events and parties are so diverse we cant tell you
what to expect; check their webpage to find out the flavour of
the day. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 19:00
- 04:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. EBXW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00,
www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium
casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque
that is clearly bringing a pretentious clubbing vibe into
this most unpretentious of neighbourhoods. Carpeting,
illuminated glass tables and purple leather furnishings
round out this refreshingly one room affair where long-
legged lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream
music. Looking to outclass Kazimierzs other clubs,
Taawa succeeds easily, especially in design, with strict
facecheck and dress code. Q Open Fri, Sat only: 21:00
- 05:00. PAX
Kazimierz Clubs
Mleczarnia
77
HISTORY
76
HISTORY
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves that
there were settlements in the Krakw
area as early as the Palaeolithic pe-
riod, with stone tools found on Wawel
Hill dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
citys founding to Krakus, the mythi-
cal ruler who vanquished the Wawel
Dragon. The mysterious earthwork
Mounds named after Krakus and
his daughter Wanda, located in the
Podgrze and Nowa Huta districts
respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However,
historians date the settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly
later in the 8th century, when it was the capital of a tribe of
pagan Slavs known as the Vistulans. By 966, the date of the
first written record of the citys name, Krakw had already grown
into a busy commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city devel-
oped rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Krakw became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Krakw Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its
golden age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the citys
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swed-
ish House of Vasa, Krakws importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund IIIs decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Krakw maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish
Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the worlds second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the countrys more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputa-
tion as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Krakw became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to their
deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on January
18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industri-
alisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2011 the city was visited by 8.6 million tourists.
966: First written record of the city
990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: Coronation of King Wadysaw the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Krakw
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Li thuanian grand duke Jagi ell o creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Krakw to Vienna, defeating the Turks and sav-
ing Christian Europe
1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussi an army captures Krakw after the
Kociuzko Uprising; citys regalia stolen and lost
forever
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgrze
district
1942: Establishment of the Paszw concentration
camp in Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtya
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free el ecti ons i n Pol and; Communi st
regime crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Krakw is the first Polish city to named European
Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to par-
ticipate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
2007: Krakw cel ebrates the 750 anni versary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia; Kaczyski and his wife Maria are con-
troversially buried in the Royal Crypts at Wawel
2012: PL successfully hosts the Euro 2012 football
tournament
Krakw Historical Timeline
One of the most fas-
ci nati ng tradi ti ons for
t our i st s and Cr aco-
vians is the hejna (pro-
nounced hey-now) a
short, mel odious bugl e
call played every hour
from the east, west,
north and south si des
of St. Mar y Basi l i cas
l eft tower (C-3).
Ergo the most fasci -
nat i ng and envi abl e
profession carri ed out
54m above t he ci t y
has to be that of the trumpeter who plays i t. Mi cha
Ko ton has been responsi bl e for the tradi tion since
2006 when he took over the rol e from his father,
Jan Ko ton, Senior Fire Marshall for the Krakw Fire
Brigade. Jan himsel f had been climbing the 239 steps
of St. Marys tower to carry out the tradi tion since
1971, keeping the hejna in the famil y after his own
fathers 35-year stint.
But the j ob is more than a source of pri de and fam-
il y heri tage. The seven firemen chosen to play are
on call for a 24-hour rotation then of f for 48 hours.
While on call, they must be alert every hour to ring the
church bell and play precisel y on the hour. The seven
trumpeters carry out their duty wi th great discipline,
as such a l ong-lasting tradi tion cannot be negl ected.
And what a tradi tion i t is. The most commonl y read
l egend tracing the hej na is that one morning in 1241
the Tartars invaded Krakw (as they al ways do). The
warning song was blared to arouse the slumbering
ci ty to arms. The man playing was shot in the neck,
thus abruptl y cutti ng of f the song i n mi d-mel ody.
To this day, the tune cuts of f in mi d-recapi tulation
symbolizing Krakws vigilance as well as commemo-
rating the l one ni ght guard who aroused the ci ty to
defence, thereby saving i t. However, Polish j ournalist
Leszek Mazan wrote in Polityka magazine that he
believes American j ournalist John M. Kell y fabricated
the l egend in 1929.
While li ttle to no documentation regarding the origins
of the song has been found, Mr. Ko ton and the other
players are certai n the songs story far precedes
John Kell ys wri ting as a fire warning for the ci ty. The
mel ody came from Hungary and was appropriatel y
used as a warning for fires or invasions as the word
hej na in Hungarian means wake up. Prior to the
15th centur y when the tower on St. Mar ys was
compl eted, this warning was sounded from the ci ty
walls, whi ch is most likel y where the l egendary trum-
peter was shot and kill ed. Whil e the histori cal birth
and devel opment of Krakws trademark remains a
mystery, any visi tor or Cracovian will surel y attest
that the hejnas li ving tradi tion defines and shapes
Krakw. In addi tion to pl easing visi tors abl e to wi t-
ness the bugl e call li ve from the church tower every
hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when
i t is broadcast li ve every day at noon on Jedynka
Radio, number 89.4 on the radio dial in Maopolska.
The Hejna
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
78 79
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the en-
chanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
What To See
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are
requisite for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day
- and have been given their own separate treatment with
accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one
could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled
streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old
Town and Kazimierz (weve attempted to make a life out of
it), dont hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgrze
- arguably the citys most evocative and mysterious district;
the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads here where the
worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation played out and
Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Krakws greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor attrac-
tions, Kociuszko Mound. Within these pages youll also find
a section devoted to Nowa Huta, one of only two planned
socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis
of everything Krakws Old Town represents, both culturally
and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are
only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week
or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka,
Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnw, information about all
of which youll find here by reading on. However long your
stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will
help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw and
Maopolska.
OLD TOWN
ible altarpiece and stained glass. Its from atop the taller of
the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated
tune every hour on the hour - dont miss it. On the other side
of the square youll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing
platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar
in the former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
pl. Wszystkich witych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisaw
Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while directly before
you are three more incredible stained glass windows by
Krakws favourite son in a specially-made modern building.
Ulica Grodzka leads you past SS Peter & Pauls Church
(C-4) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples posed
before it. Cut across the small square to your right and youll
find yourself on one of Krakws most handsome streets,
ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul IIs former residence
is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan
Museum (C-5). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of
Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the citys defining landmark. A
source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel
is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisa
riverbanks below.
Other Old Town highlights include the fabulous 20th century
art collection on the top floor of the main building of the
National Museum (H-3). The Old Town is also home to
the second oldest university in Central Europe. Jagielloian
Universitys Collegium Maius (B-3) is the schools oldest
building and was the studying place of Copernicus. Take
an hour out to see the incredible library and lecture hall,
as well as the oldest surviving globe in the world to depict
the Americas. Finally, anyone looking to do some bizarre
bargain hunting should head to one of Krakws catch-all
marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and Hala Tar-
gowa (E-4) - especially during the latters Sunday morning
flea market - being bona fide cultural experiences in their
own right (see Shopping for more).
SIGHTSEEING
SS Peter & Pauls Church Photo: Pawe Krzan,
krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
The main market square and St. Marys Basilica.
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with
the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of Polish
kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from the
14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of
the Old Towns prime sights lay along this route from the
Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less noble
lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws train sta-
tion (E-1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from the
station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in
the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the
Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was
once a series of medieval forti fications surrounded by a
moat. After Polands Third Partition in the late 18th century,
the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph
I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks
to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared,
including the magni ficent Barbican and Floriaska Gate.
Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of
the Sowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A
marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a
bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable
ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the
circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2) was added to the
citys defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriaska Gate (D-2) that officially began the
Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and youre
on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind the
Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to notice
the architectural detail of the facades. On this street youll
find the Jan Matejko House and Museum, as well as the
underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2).
Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek (C-3),
you are now standing in the heart of Poland with your finger
on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually the Rynek
and Wawel may be the two most important sights in the
country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval market square
in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200 metres square and
functions as the citys social gravitation point. Lined with
cafes and restaurants, filled with people, pigeons, street
performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is a
place of festivals, concerts, parades and other events. At its
centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall or Sukiennice - a neo-
Gothic structure which has served as a market for merchants
since the Middle Ages, and whose history you can now learn in
the Rynek Underground museum housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery on
the first floor. Directly before you as youre leaving Floriaska
is St. Marys Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral - one of the
most dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its incred-
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. Also at
ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:00 -
21:00). QOpen 07:45 - 19:45. Y
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. Of-
fering a wide range of tourist info and services, including
a variety of sightseeing tours of Krakw (on foot, by
bike, by boat, by electric car) and the region (including
Auschwitz, Zakopane, Wieliczka and more) for groups
and individuals. Also at ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3, open 08:00 -
21:00) and ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open 08:00 - 21:00).
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Jordan Tourist Information and Accommoda-
tion Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
60 91, www.it.jordan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Krakw History Museum Visitor Services
Centre C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426
50 60, www.mhk.pl. Tourist info, ticket sales and gift
shop for all 15 branches of the Krakw History Museum.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
See Krakow C/D-2, ul. Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 12
429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Also at ul. Grodzka
18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 21:00), ul. Grodzka 59 (C-5, open
09:00 - 21:00), Pl. Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, open
09:00 - 20:30) and the ul. Basztowa underpass (D-2,
open 08:30 - 21:00). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information
May Rynek. Photo: Pawe Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
The Wawel Dragon entertains on the Wisa riverbank.
Credit: Pawe Krzan, More beautiful photos of Krakw
available online at krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
81
OLD TOWN
80
OLD TOWN
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika
Mariacka) C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5,
tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.
mariacki.com. Tartar invasi ons
of the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins and con-
struction began on St. Marys using
the existing foundations. It doesnt
matter how many times you see
i t, the al tarpi ece, stai ned gl ass
windows of the nave, and the blue,
starred ceiling will take your breath away. The magnificent
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work of
the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz),
and depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among the apostles.
Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko,
Mehoffer and Wyspiaski. Several local legends are attached
to St. Marys. The architect of the smaller tower murdered his
brother (the architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his
structure was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt
he then committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof
of the cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one
of Krakws most enduring traditions. The bugle call played
on the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins from an
event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the
horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the
habitants of Krakw. He was shot with an arrow in his neck,
abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was
roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this
event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune
every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the
whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen
11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z.
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of tour pack-
ages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines
and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. This
helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car tours
of Krakw, as well as airport transfers and excursions to
Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also at ul. Grodzka
28-30 (C-4, open 08:00 - 21:00) and ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3,
open 08:00 - 21:00). QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Free Walking Tours, tel. (+48) 513 87 58 14,
www.freewalkingtour.com. As advertised: why pay
for what you can get free? This outfit of young tour
guides offers free walking tours of the Old Town every
day at 10:00 and 15:30. Free English language tours of
Kazimierz are every day at 11:00 and 15:00. All tours
leave from in front of St. Marys Basilica on the market
square (look for the Free Walking Tours sign). But thats
not all: check their website for their other offers, including
free macabre tours, free bike tours, and paid tours of
Nowa Huta and the former Jewish Ghetto. All tours are
by professional licenced tour guides, so you should have
some cash ready to tip these fine people.
SeeKrakow Guided Tours C-3, ul. Floriaska 6,
tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com.
The whole gamut of travel services plus the usual tours
around the city and beyond. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Guided Tours Churches
Theres hardly a resident of Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While the number of churches,
cathedrals and monasteries in the city is almost endless,
weve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here. All of these
places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active
to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to
visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra i
Pawa) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65,
www.apostolowie.pl. Krakws premier Jesuit Church was
built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on the
gates outside are its most striking feature, although the interior
has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur
of this late Renaissance building is now evident. Possessors
of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French
physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earths rota-
tion, shows demonstrating its use generally occur on Thurs-
days at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be
sure. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
St. Adalberts (Koci w. Wojciecha) C-3, Rynek
Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.kosciolwojcie-
cha.pl. Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan
at the southeast corner of the Cloth Hall, a mad mix of pre-Ro-
man, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture,
all crammed together in a higgledy-piggledy jumble of religious
styles. The earliest parts of the building date from at least the
11th century, pre-dating the Rynek and explaining its seem-
ingly random position within it. St. Adalbert (Wojciech in Polish)
had his own cult following at the time, which explains how it
managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least
because the floor sits some two metres below the surface of
the main square, however the church is being renovated
at the moment and wont be open to tourists again before the
end of October. Church services and daily concerts of the Royal
Chamber Orchestra have been moved to the churchs small
chapel. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:30 - 18:00.
St. Andrews (Koci w. Andrzeja) C- 4, ul.
Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. St. Andrews offers
the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Krakw.
It was built between 1079 and 1098 and has been a place of
worship for 900 years. The church was used as a refuge and
fortress during the first raid of Krakw by the Tartars. Walking
inside is therefore disappointing since most of the relics have
been looted. Baldassare Fontana remodelled the interior
during the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century. Note
the pulpit which resembles a boat, typical of the Baroque
style. Q Open 06:45 - 18:30. No visiting during mass please.
St. Francis Basilica (Bazylika w. Franciszka)
C- 4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422
53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Our favourite church in
Krakw thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau murals
by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely balance the
organic and geometric with unique floral patterns that make
this the most colourful place of worship in the city. Wyspiaski
also made the eight stained-glass windows around 1895,
including the controversial and iconic centrepiece, God the
Father in the Act of Creation. Dating back to the 13th century,
St. Francis Basilica was the first brick building in the city and
is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less
for looking at another church. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
13:00 - 15:00. Every 2nd Sunday of the month open 13:30
- 14:30 only. No visiting during mass, please.
Barbi can D- 2, ul .
Basztowa, tel. (+48)
12 619 23 20, www.
mhk.pl. The showpiece
of the ci tys medi eval
defences, the Barbi -
can was bui l t at the
end of the 15th century
to protect Kr akw s
mai n ent r ance and
was connected to the
Floriaska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that
surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with walls 3
metres thick this masterpiece of medieval mili tary
engineering proved impenetrable and today stands as
one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Eu-
rope; certainly the most well-preserved. Built in Gothic
style, the Krakw Barbican is topped by seven turrets
and includes 130 defensi ve slots used by archers
and ri flemen. Today the Barbican is used for various
special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests)
and can be visited as an outdoor museum between
the months of April and October, where youll learn
the history of Krakws defensive walls. As the bastion
is almost always empty, it makes a fantastic place for
a game of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby,
however beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who
have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting
meant to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee
youll see at least three.Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Admis-
sion 8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket includes admission
to the nearby City Defensive Walls.
Barbican
Sowacki Theatre
(Teatr im. Juliusza
Sowackiego) D-2,
Pl. w. Ducha 1, tel.
(+48) 12 424 45
25, www.slowacki.
krakow.pl. Regarded
today as an architec-
tural masterpiece, the
Sowacki Theatre came
under fi erce cri ticism
when construction began due to the demolition of the
medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for
it - an act that drew the ire of local cultural bigwigs like
Jan Matejko. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled
his design for the theatre on the Paris Opera and the
structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade which
is decorated with allegorical figures. Sadly, the interior is
usually off limits to the public unless there is a produc-
tion on; a pleading look is usually enough to get past this
obstacle. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme
examples of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the stage curtain
is itself worth the James Bond deviousness needed to
sneak in. Designed by Henryk Siemiradzki it features
beautiful paintings representing drama, comedy, music
and dance. Polands first cinema show was held here in
1896. Q Open depending on repertoire. Guided tours
can be arranged by phone for 130z (up to 40 people),
but are only available in Polish at this time.
Sowacki Theatre
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Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Gwny. One of the
most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of
the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz
(1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate
the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so many
other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the oc-
cupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country!
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just
down the road at Wawel.
Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Gwny.
Among Krakws most well-known landmarks, this sculpture
in the western corner of the market square is a popular
meeting place and at some point serves as a photographic
backdrop for almost every tourist who visits the city. Affec-
tionately referred to as The Head, the bronze body parts
official title is Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) and is the work
of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj. A student of Tadeusz Kantors
at the Krakw School of Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitorajs
monumental works dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003
to Jan 25, 2004, during which the artist gifted this work to
the city, sparking controversy over what to do with it. Initially,
the sculpture was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the
artist was indignant about having his work in front of a com-
mercial building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from
historians and many locals, the sculpture eventually found its
current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has become
an unexpected tourist attraction. In summer, children can
be seen crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their
heads and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping
parents, though winter too often finds it profaned with trash
and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitorajs work will find an-
other of his large sculptures titled Luci di Nara - adorning
the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum (ul. Grodzka
53, C-4), and another in front of the Krakw Opera building
(ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).
Grunwal d Monument
(Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1,
Pl. Matejki. The Battl e of
Grunwal d, fought between
the j oi nt armi es of Pol and
and Li thuani a agai nst the
Teutonic Knights on July 15,
1410, i s consi dered to be
one of the greatest battles
ever to take place in medieval
Europe. A defining moment in Polish history, the battle was
immortalised in Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty
monument in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the
500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis
(1877-1919) original masterpiece was, not surprisingly,
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy
that now stands in its place dates from 1976, having been
faithfully reproduced using sketches and models of the origi-
nal. At the top on his horse is the King of Poland Wadysaw
Jagieo, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand.
At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas
(Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers
from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von
Jungingen, the Teutonic Orders Grand Master, who lost his
life during the battle.
fot. Iwona Grabska
Main Market Square
(Rynek Gwny) C-3.
Krakws mai n market
square (Rynek) ser ves
as the citys gravitational
centre, and is the natural
start and finish point for
any tour of the city. Origi-
nal l y desi gned i n 1257
- the year Krakw was
awarded i ts char ter
the grid-like layout of the
Old Town and its central
square has changed little in the years that have fol-
lowed. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks
as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and
is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their
own unique names, histories and curiosities. Through
the centuries it was in Krakws Rynek that homage to
the king was sworn and public executions held. Most
famously it was here that Tadeusz Kociuszko roused the
locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794. The Rynek
has always been the natural stage for public celebra-
tions, with everything from parades of sausage dogs
to Christmas crib competitions taking place. Not all the
events have had been happy affairs however, and back
in the 17th century King Jan Sobieski III was privy to a
firework display which ended in bloodshed when some
of the explosives were accidentally fired into the crowd.
More recently the market square was subjected to a Nazi
rally attended by Der Fhrer himself when the squares
name was changed to Adolf Hitler Platz during German
occupation. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long
and today the Rynek occupies itself by hosting annual
Christmas and Easter markets, as well as numerous
festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built
in the 14th century this huge hall was effectively the first
shopping mall in the world. To this day it is still crammed
with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and
assorted tourist tat. In 2010, Rynek Underground (see
our box) - a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing the history
of the Cloth Hall, and that of the entire city - opened un-
derneath it, while the second floor hosts the underrated
19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Polands most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasnt stopped the statue from becoming one of
Krakws best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Marys Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Marys,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. From April to November, visitors can ascend
up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted rooms which
contain, amongst other things, 1960s photographs
of Krakw and look out on the square below from the
viewing point.
Main Market Square Museums
Krakw is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours
and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration
can strike visitors as will fully eccentric, until one stops
to consider how much patience and care - and how little
capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is
for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit
to throw an extra zoty into the collection box. Alternatively,
cheapskates and paupers should note that all branches
of the National Museum are free on Sundays. The
museums listed here are in the Old Town, while Kazimierz
and Podgrze museums are listed in their respective sec-
tions of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall,
Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Open again after a lengthy closure,
this magni ficent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall
covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and
its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting.
Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small,
giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are
enormous and all of whi ch are gorgeousl y framed. Of
particular interest for their status as national treasures
are the Italian-born, Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarellis
Portrait of Stanisaw August Poniatowski in Coronation
Dress from around 1790 and, a century on, Wadysaw
Podkowiskis famous Frenzy from 1894. Other painters
of note on display whose works shouldnt be missed include
Jan Matej ko, Jacek Mal czewski, Jzef Chemoski and
Stanisaw Witkiewicz. One of the perks of a visit is access
to the magni ficent balcony overlooking the market square.
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audioguide
5z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Archaeology Museum
(Muzeum Archeologic-
zne) B- 4, ul. Poselska 3,
tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00,
www.ma.krakow.pl. Though
fresh from a recent boost of
cash, Krakws Archaeology
Museum may still seem out-
dated and underwhelming to
many visitors, particularly in
comparison to Krakws other
museums (mostly excellent)
and natural history museums
they may have visited else-
where. Nonethel ess, i t has
improved. In addition to the
famous Zbruch Idol, regional
Stone Age artefacts and a
charming room dedicated to
l ocal cl othi ng from 70,000
BC to the 14th century, the
museum houses a permanent
collection of artefacts from ancient Egypt including some
beauti ful shrouds, a number of intricately decorated sar-
cophagi and some mummified cats. The latter exhibition is
best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide, available for an
extra charge. Housed in an old monastery, the biggest high-
light of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden
(iz charge if you arent visiting the museum) - a great place to
relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. Q Open
11:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission
7/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Audioguide 5z. Y
Zbruch Idol
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Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtya
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynaa Karola
Wojtyy) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. John Paul II lived
here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtya, the young priest with
a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later
as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan
doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful
sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the
items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness from
heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the
attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect
to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal guided tours
available or for groups up to 25 people in French, English and
Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket 12z. Guided tours 60z.
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace (Paac Biskupa
Erazma Cioka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433
59 20, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This early 14th century pal-
ace holds two permanent exhibitions of the National Museum,
Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries and Orthodox
Art of the Old Polish Republic. As you could have guessed, both
exhibits consist entirely of sacral art from before the idea of art
was applied to non-religious subject matter (how many centuries
did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Krakws own
churches or others in the region, and most of it is admittedly
superb, if thats your thing. If its not, its a bit of a snoozefest.
The highlight is without doubt the strange 16th century Christ
Riding a Donkey, a near life-size wooden sculpture of everyones
favourite model doing just that with vacant eyes and the mule
atop a wagon. Eerily beautiful. Also of note is the wooden Ma-
donna from Krulowa which dates from around 1400. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z,
audioguide 5z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
City Defensive Walls (Mury Obronne) D-2, ul. Pijar-
ska, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 20, www.mhk.pl. This small
museum is in turns uninformative and overly informative, but
basically it gives you a chance to climb around whats left of
Krakws 13th century defensive walls. Pass a few silly man-
nequins in medieval dress en route to a film with fantastic virtual
recreations of ancient Krakw (in Polish only), before walking
the length of wall between two towers and getting a description
of the other 40-odd towers demolished by the Austrians in the
18th century. Enjoy views and great photo opportunities over
Floriaska street, but generally a visit to the Barbican (see Old
Town Places of Interest) is more interesting and informative.
Tickets are valid for 7 days and include entry to the Barbican as
well. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z.
Ticket includes admission to the nearby Barbican.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Museum)
B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.
maius.uj.edu.pl. The universitys oldest building (and one of
the oldest in Krakw), Collegium Maius was built as the uni-
versitys main campus in the late 14th century, 36 years after
the universitys founding. A century later it was redesigned as
the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded
courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived
and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls
that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his
notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, visitors can take a
45-minute guided tour of the museum in English which includes
the lecture halls, common rooms, professors quarters, library
and treasury. Along the way youll see some fabulous interiors,
paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors
maces and other university memorabilia, as well as the old-
est surviving globe to depict the Americas. Tours take place
Cloth Hall (Suki -
ennice) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 1/3, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl.
The iconic glory-piece at
the centre of Krakws
market square, there
is proof that a struc-
ture of some sort has
existed on the site of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) since
the mid-13th century. Originally resembling two rows of
stone trading stalls with a thoroughfare running between
them, a roof was erected over them around 1300 before
King Kazimierz the Great approved the construction of
a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century. As
a result, Krakws importance as an east-west trading
post increased; though the name Sukiennice refers
specifically to the trade of textiles and fabrics, Krakws
Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in
its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk,
as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines.
After a fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th cen-
tury, the Sukiennice underwent a Renaissance facelift
overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) featuring
brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish sculp-
tor Santi Gucci on the faade. At this time the Cloth Hall
was probably the most magni ficent building in all of
Krakw. By the mid-1870s, however, Poland had been
partitioned for nearly a century and the Cloth Hall was in
a rather decrepit state. Between 1875-79, while the city
was part of Austro-Hungarian-controlled Galicia, many
of the outbuildings were torn down and the neo-Gothic
colonnades and outside arcades were added by Tomasz
Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko. The interior was
converted into a series of wooden stalls and on October
7th, 1879 the Krakw City Council voted to give half of
the upper floor of the Cloth Hall over to the creation of
the first Polish National Museum. It quickly became the
focal point for a huge celebration of Polish patriotism
attracting Poles from all three partitions as well as those
from self-imposed exiles abroad.
The 20th century saw ongoing development of the build-
ing with the most significant work being carried out in
the late 1950s when much of the 19th century interior
was replaced. By the start of the 21st century, however,
the building, particularly the display areas inside, was in
poor condition and unprepared for the demands of a 21st
century museum or shopping area. Beginning in August
2006 and lasting over 4 years, the building was given a
complete re-modelling with lifts, air-conditioning and new
natural and artificial lighting installed. Where once were
sloped attics, you will now find lovely terraces overlook-
ing the square below and St. Marys Basilica opposite.
To take advantage of them and the adjacent Cafe Sza
(see Cafes), visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(see Museums, and keep in mind you dont need to pay
admission to visit the cafe). Having visited the Art Gallery
or the Rynek Underground museum take a break by
visiting the Noworolski Cafe for coffee (see Cafes) and
round it off by picking up a souvenir in the arcade within
the Cloth Hall, where youll find all sorts of handicrafts,
amber and other local products at surprisingly reason-
able prices. And youll have the experience of shopping in
what is basically a 700-year old shopping mall.
The Cloth Hall
Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
podziemiarynku.com. Opened in a blaze of public-
ity in September 2010, this hi-tech and highly popular
museum takes visitors four metres under the surface
of the market square to explore the recently excavated
medieval merchant stalls that predate todays Cloth Hall,
and to experience the citys entire history - from its first
settlers right up to the death of Pope John Paul II over
the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits.
Because of the museums popularity, and the fact that
it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed tickets
should be bought in advance of when you want to visit
to avoid long queues or the disappointment of no ticket
availability. This can be done either online or from the
information office confusingly located on the opposite
side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The
actual museum entrance is located on the side opposite
St. Marys Basilica, of course, and once youve negotiated
the scrum of getting inside your experience begins with a
short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following
the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what
is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on
touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fas-
cinating look into life before Krakw received its charter
and the market square was laid out, displays on trade
and transport in the city, and the remains of an 11th-
century cemetery. Those more comfortable in traditional
museums will be pleased to know there are still plenty
of artefacts among the virtual exhibits, including the
usual array of coins, clothing and other earthly remains.
Dont miss the series of short, subtitled documentaries
covering different ages of Krakows history to your right
before you reach the end of the underground circuit
and its inevitable caf and souvenir shops. In addition
to the multi-lingual displays, audio guides are available
in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Span-
ish. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue
10:00 - 16:00. Closed every first Tue. Last entrance 75
minutes before closing. Admission 19/16z, family ticket
38 z, Tue free. Audioguide 5z (ID must be left in order
to take an audioguide).
Rynek Underground
Stanisaw Kosin
Stanisaw Kosin
Mon Fri at 13:00, and you should call or visit in advance to
reserve yourself a place. If not, dont fret; shorter, more basic
English- language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific
instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes throughout
the day (though were informed its wise to arrange these be-
forehand as well). Recently a separate interactive exhibit about
mathematics titled Everything...is a number (Wszystko...
jest liczb) has opened (open 09:00 - 13:30; closed Sun. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 7/5z). The buildings
courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe, and dont miss the
beautiful Professors Garden just next door (accessible via a
beautiful painted passageway). Q Open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit, 16/12z for
entire museum (including gallery and scientific instruments) or
tour. Admission free on Tuesdays between 15:00 and 18:00
for a self-guided tour.
Gallery of Ancient Art (Arsena - Galeria Sztuki
Staroytnej) C-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
55 66, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This small branch of
the National Museum is also a satellite of the Czartoryski
Museum across the street, and brings together three unique
collections of ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th
and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki
family of Krzeszowice and the Krakw National Museum. On
display are artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt, Greece
and Rome dating from between 3000 BC to the 7th century
AD, with highlights including marble sculptures, Egyptian
sarcophagi and animal mummies. Its amazing that these
items found their way to Krakw and they provide an interest-
ing look at the material culture of the ancient world, but are
hardly required viewing for those without a special interest
in antiquity. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/4z, familly ticket 16z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitw) C- 3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. The
Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine build-
ing around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th
centuries, although the building dates back considerably
further than that. The inside has been transformed into a
series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces
from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for the
insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being
a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and antiques.
Worth a visit. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7z, family
ticket 18z. Wed free.
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87
OLD TOWN
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum Historii
Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego) H-1, ul. Jz-
efitw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.mhf.krakow.
pl. Allegedly Polands only museum dedicated exclusively to
photography, this modest museum tracks the development
of the art form over several cupboard-size rooms, including
changing photographic exhibitions, an old darkroom, heaps
of ancient cameras and a nice collection of historical images
of Krakw. Theres plenty here to fascinate shutterbugs, but
if your primary camera is your cellphone, you may not deem
it worth the journey. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00
- 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups (3 person mini-
mum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z, Sun free. Y
Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.
muzeum-ak.pl. This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick
railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass
atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting
the size, organisation and efforts of Polands underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official
disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continuing fight for
freedom within the countrys two occupied zones (Nazi and
Soviet) is one of World War IIs less acknowledged aspects
and this fantastic museum goes to great length to demon-
strate that Polands government, military and civilian popula-
tion never surrendered in the fight for freedom. After a decade
of collecting historical documents, artefacts and information
from Home Army veterans, this museum opened to the public
in September 2012 and is a must-visit for anyone interested
in WWII history. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance one hour before closing. Admission 13/7z. Sun
permanent exhibit free. Y
Hutten- Czapski Museum (Muzeum Hutten-
Czapskiego) A-3, ul. Pisudskiego 12, tel. (+48)
12 433 58 40, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Located in a
19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the very centre of
Krakw, this new branch of the Krakw National Museum
houses a comprehensive collection of Polish numismat-
ics - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes and medals.
The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, who once owned
the place, also includes old prints, manuscripts and other
national memorabilia. The palace and gardens themselves
have been stunningly restored, but nonetheless this one
should probably be reserved for die hard Polish patriots
with a fascination for coin collecting. Is that you? QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
9/5z, family ticket 18z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul.
Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical
painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where
he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As
well as some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval life, stud-
ies for gargoyles and collections of Renaissance furniture
and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejkos life
is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this recently
renovated museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Pol-
ish master, and a man of many parts. Those with a special
interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and manor
house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums), and the 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his greatest works
are displayed. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z, audioguide 5z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Jzef Mehof fer House
(Dom Jzefa Mehoffera)
A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel.
(+48) 12 433 58 80, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Mehoffer
was one of the turn of the 19th
centurys artistic elite, a skilled
stained-glass artist collabo-
rating with Wyspiaski on the
interiors of numerous Krakw
churches and important build-
ings. This, his house, was where
the artists of the Moda Polska
(Young Poland) movement of-
ten met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings,
Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs
and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important
artistic legacy. In warmer months you wont find a more magical
place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind
the house, presided over by the old-fashioned Cafe Waka -
one of the citys best-kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl. The Museum of Japanese Art &
Technology houses the National Museums Japanese artefacts,
consisting primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieskis fabulous
6,500-piece collection, featuring battlesuits, antiques, por-
celain, incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings and comical
woodprints. The modern building was created by legendary
Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, a native of Krakw who saw
the private collection of Feliks Jasieski exhibited during WWII.
Upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987, Wajda donated the
$340,000 grant for the construction of the museum. Q Open
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From September open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z,
group ticket 60z (up to 30people), Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
National Museum, Main Building (Gmach Gwny
Muzeum Narodowego w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja
1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl.
Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical histo-
rians would have us believe, previous generations of Poles
have in actual fact excelled in the arts. The superb National
Museum of Art in Krakw showcases many such examples
of their work. As well as a number of world-class temporary
shows, the museum also houses fine collections of Polish
applied arts and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over
to the permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a truly
awesome collection showcasing the works of such visionar-
ies as Kantor, Wyspiaski and Witkacy that any gallery would
be more than proud of owning. The museum also houses a
small shop and TriBeCa caf. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 19z, audioguide 5z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,
ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15th-
century building, Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is
laid out on several floors and includes all manner of exhibits
from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops
to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really
good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of inter-
est is the small exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and
brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30,
Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/6z.
Carriage Rides C-3, Rynek Gwny. If youre won-
dering about the ever-popular antique horse-drawn
carriages that line the market square, these handsome
vehicles are available to hire for a leisurely sightseeing
trot around town. Operated by a number of di fferent
companies, routes and prices are individually determined
with the driver but the going rate is generally about
250z/hr, or 150z/30mins. No need to pay more, and
also dont climb into a carriage from a rogue rank other
than those on the north and west sides of the market
square. Unfortunately the drivers dont disseminate any
information about what youre seeing along the way (see,
you might need this guidebook after all); that bright idea
hasnt occurred to anyone yet. Still, its every girls dream
to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared. And
dont forget to ask the driver to take your picture; its the
least they can do for the money. Q Carriage rides are
generally available every day 10:00 - 22:00, rain or shine.
Carriage Rides
Undamaged by the Nazi cyclone, Krakws Old Town
remains in its original form, and as such represents
a breathing history lesson. With a past that stretches
back several centuries its not hard to unsuspectingly
find yoursel f doing your boozing and dining inside a
part of history.
Ha n d s d o wn t h e mo s t
famous restaurant in town is
Wierzynek (Rynek Gwny 16)
whose opening in 1364 was
attended by five kings and nine
princes. The occasion of the
gathering was to stop Europe
from going to war, though by all
accounts the banquet turned
into a 21 day feasting and binge drinking marathon. The
restaurant has been drawing big names ever since, with
Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush being a only a few.
Drink in more modern history in the Noworolski Caf
(Rynek Gwny 1, see Cafes). This is the spot where Lenin
would entertain both his wife and his mistress, while the
art nouveau paintings are the work of Jozef Mehoffer,
who has his own museum at ul. Krupnicza 26 (A-2).
Jama Michalika (ul. Floriaska 45, see Cafes) was not
only the favoured meeting point of all the artsy types in
the Moda Polska art movement, but also the home of
Polands first cabaret, The Green Balloon. The opening
night was so nerve racking for the compere he got blind
drunk before swearing at the audience and falling off
the stage. Thats show business, and the success of
the cabaret was guaranteed from thereon.
Dishing Up History
89
88
OLD TOWN
WAWEL
Town Hall Tower (Wiea
Ratusza) C-3, Rynek Gwny 1,
tel. (+48) 12 619 23 18, www.
mhk.pl. The only element of the
14th century Town Hall remaining
after many fires, renovations and
uncaring demolitions, is this 70m-
high tower, proudly standing next
to the Cloth Hall. Ascend your way
through the Gothic vaulted rooms
to the observation deck for great
views of the Rynek, and on your
way take a look at the photography exhibition of Krakw
during the 1960s. Outside the tower you will also find a
metal model of the old Town Hall as it looked in the 18th
century and which is part of a series made specially by the
local authorities to allow the blind to visualise the city. Q
Open 10:30 - 18:00. Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Y
Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul.
Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl.
Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the
most chilling museum experience in Krakw (which is saying
something). Located in the Dom lski, or Silesian House,
this infamous building became the Krakw headquarters of the
Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention
cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These
cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public
as the Former Gestapo Cells - immediately to your right as
you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage
you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the
buildings main exhibit People of Krakow in Times of Terror
1939-1945-1956, entered via a staircase in the corner of the
courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors
chronologically through the citys not-so-distant past, illustrating
the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in
Krakw through an abundance of documents, photographs,
audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first
victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of
the mid-50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying
experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid
and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation
of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the
Gestapo cells is trul y haunti ng. An uni magi nabl e 600
inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting
their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering
and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of
Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect,
there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for
the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and
memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visit-
ing. Ulica Pomorska is a 20 minute walk from market square,
near the tram stop Plac Inwalidw. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon. Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z, Tue free.
Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the
hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predomi-
nantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture
dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the
crown jewel of Krakws architectural treasures and required
visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily forti fied walls that cant fail
to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of
which the former contains most, but by no means all of
the exhibitions, Wawels must-see highlights include the
Cathedrals mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse
of Polands very own crown jewels inside the Crown Trea-
sury and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its
courtyards and gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk
disaster, Wawels Royal Crypts became the final resting
place of President Lech Kaczyski and his wi fe Maria; their
tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of
Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards,
can take an entire day.
Castle
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Wawels
prominence as a centre of political power predates the build-
ing of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence
shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle
before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose
Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king
crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Wadysaw the
Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradi-
tion that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there
up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle
as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural
details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in
1596 and Polands subsequent decline and partitioning saw
the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying
Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so
far as to demolish several buildings including a number of
churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change
hands on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing
renovation works that continue to this day being halted for
a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was
used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General,
Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Todays
Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.
The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true
architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful status as
a truly world-class city.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny
i Zbrojownia). Containing Polands very own equivalent
of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown
Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the
world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To
the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases
of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other
marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the countrys original corona-
tion sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly
swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes,
while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 1 hour 15minutes before closing. Admission
18/11z. Mon free. Check ticket office for details and ticket
availability.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony). Thi s smar tl y
conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining
fragments of medieval Wawel, including remnants of the
Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Krakws first church). A com-
puter generated model of Wawel gives visitors a peek into
the early 10th century construction. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00,
Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7z. Mon free. Check
ticket office for details and for tickets.
Oriental Art (Sztuka Wschodu). This exhibit in the
western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near
East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the
Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and
trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea.
Here visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic
and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that
makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons
and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski IIIs
famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683,
including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Paras
sabre. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 8/5z.
fot. Stanisaw Michta
pl.wikipedia.org, author KHRoN
Polish Aviation Mu-
seum (Muzeum Lot-
nictwa Polskiego)
Al. Jana Paw a II 39
(Czyyny), tel. (+48)
12 642 87 00, www.
muzeumlotnictwa.pl.
Located on one of the old-
est military airfields in Eu-
rope, this oft-overlooked,
but highly regarded museum holds a premier collection
of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related not only to Pol-
ish, but the world aviation history and heritage. Following
a massive 46 million zoty investment, the museum is
home to a new four-storey exhibition building bursting
with hi-tech goodies, a cinema, an interactive space for
children, library, museum shop and extensive collection
of planes, including a marvellous 1909 Blriot XI and a
Polish-built RWD from the 1930s. The original exhibits
in the airfields numerous hangars and out-buildings still
remain stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms
and plenty more airplanes, helicopters, gliders, while the
yards surrounding them are literally littered Russian-built
fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While its
disappointing that many of the displays are in Polish only,
this is still a great outing (Dads love it) that can take the
better part of a day to explore thoroughly. Northeast of
the Old Town mid-way to Nowa Huta, take tram numbers
4, 5, 9, or 10 -or- bus numbers 124 or 424, getting off at
the Wieczysta stop. A taxi should cost about 25z each
way. Recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 14/7z, Tue free. Y
Out of Centre
The Szo ayski House
(Kamienica Szoayskich)
B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 9, tel.
(+48) 12 433 54 50, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Formerl y
the ci tys Wyspiaski Museum,
this branch of the National Mu-
seum has been re-chri stened
the Szoayski House, and pres-
ents a new exhi bi ti on enti tl ed
Forever Young! Pol and and
i ts art around 1900. Focus-
si ng on Pol ands secessi oni st
Moda Polska movement and
Krakws rol e as i ts nexus, visi tors will still see pl enty of
Krakws gol den boy Stani saw Wyspi aski - i ncl udi ng
some wonder ful pastel sketches and hi s most i coni c
sel f-portrai t - as wel l as sati ri cal works associated wi th
the l egendary Green Bal l oon Cabaret and other note-
worthy Pol i sh Art Nouveau pai nti ngs. A new permanent
exhi bi t on the ground fl oor honours Krakws Grand
Dame of poetr y Wi s awa Szymborska by exhi bi ti ng
arti cl es col l ected from her apartment after her pass-
i ng i n 2012. Of defi ni te i nterest to Wyspi aski l overs
and general fans of the peri od, i t may not be requi red
vi si ti ng, but hi gh marks for presentati on, a manageabl e
visi tati on ti me of one hour and a central l ocati on j ust of f
the market square make this an easy and enj oyabl e i tem
to cross of f your si ghtseei ng checkl i st. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Mon. Last entrance
30 mi nutes before cl osi ng. Admi ssi on 9/5z, fami l y
ti cket 18z. Sun free for permanent exhi bi ti ons. Y
Varga Attila/Wikipedia/
CC BY-SA 3.0
90 91
WAWEL WAWEL
Sandomierska Tower (Baszta Sandomierska).
One of Wawels two artillery towers, Sandomierska Tower
was built around 1460 to defend the castle against attack
from the south. A small chamber on the third floor would have
served as either a guards lodging or a prison for nobles,
whereas common criminals were held in the dungeons.
Recently opened to tourists, climb the 137 winding steps for
great photo opportunities, particularly of the castle courtyard
and Cathedral. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. From September
open 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before
closing. Admission 4z. Children under 7 free. Tickets are sold
from a machine outside the entrance.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments
(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Aparta-
menty Krlewskie). Two collections in one, of which the
latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour,
these are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did their
entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on
forever, and are full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-
century Flemish tapestries, some truly extraordinary wallpaper
and the breathtaking Bird Room. Highlights include the eerie
Deputies Hall, complete with 30 wooden representations of
former Krakw residents heads on the coffered ceiling and
an original throne that really brings the majesty of Polands
past to life. The Royal Private Apartments are, as one would
expect, stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renais-
sance details, rooms include the wonderful Guest Bedroom,
complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and
the charmingly named Hens Foot - two small rooms inside
the 14th-century Belvedere Tower. What these rooms were
originally used for is anyones guess, but the view from the
windows is well worth the visit. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission to State Rooms
18/11z. Royal Apartments 25/19z (guide included).
Cathedral
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. The scene of the crown-
ing of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history,
the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site.
The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020,
but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Krakw in
1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathe-
dral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building
was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Polands
first king to be crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka.
Wadysaw the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned
among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Con-
sidered the most important single building in Poland, Wawels
extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original, although
many glorious additions have been made over the centuries.
Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Marys on the
Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for
its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history
packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former
Bishop of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably grand
monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the
Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about
as ostentatious as youre ever likely to see, of particular interest
is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right
as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as
well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV.
The Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as
the final resting place of kings and statesmen - most recently
fromer president Lech Kaczyski - while at the top of a gruelling
wooden series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne Sigismund
Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 50km away. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle
have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can
be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite
the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual
cathedral itsel f is free you will need a ticket to enter
the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower.
A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral
Museum. Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral
Museum can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5z
in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish,
Czech or French. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 -
16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z. Note that the
Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid
to visit another day.
Cathedral Tickets
Krakws prized art piece is this
Leonardo Da Vinci oil painting -
one of only three in the world,
and a sentimental favourite of
Pol es, reproduced and hung
in many a home. Leonardos
Lady has a chequered history;
when she isnt entertaining she
always seems to be on the run
or i n hi di ng somewhere. For
centuries she was off the map
completely, before having a ren-
dezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian
holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her
home to his native Poland, where she was part of the
family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Krakws Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Krakw where she is
today one of the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel for the
next two years until its proper home in the Czartoryski
Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its
own alongside in depth information about its complicated
history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires
a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be
missed. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/8z.
Lady With an Ermine
The Senators Hall fot. Anna Stankiewicz
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5,
Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-
wawelska.pl. Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before
he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum
features a wealth of religious and secular items dating
from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and
downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable
possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three
pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August
(1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well
as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too
boot. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
Royal Crypts (Groby Krlewskie) B-5, Wawel 3,
tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
While all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He
joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more
Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children
thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom
itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince
Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko (1818), poets
Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef
Pisudski (1935) and General Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all
securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April
of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyski and his wife
Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smolesk; admission to their tomb (and that of Pisudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL;
the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon
Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel 3,
www.katedra-wawelska.
pl. Fol l ow the crowds up
the many gruelling flights of
Sigismunds Bel fry to reach
t he i nfamous Si gi smund
Bell - a resounding symbol
of Pol i sh nati onal i sm al a
Phi l adel phi as Li berty Bel l.
The largest by far of five bells
hanging in the same tower,
Si gismunds Bell wei ghs in
at an astounding 13 tonnes
(9630 kgs), measures 241cm
in height, 242cm across at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm
thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of
King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav
and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland
and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national
holidays, as well as signi ficant moments in history (most
recently the funeral of former President Lech Kaczyski
and his wi fe) the bells peal can be heard 50km away and is
quite an enterprise to ring, requiring the strength of twelve
strong men; a dangerous job, the bell-tollers are actually
li fted from the ground by the force of the bell, resulting in
at least one famous accident when a bell-toller was flung
from the tower to his death during the interwar period. The
entrance to Sigismund Belltower is within the Cathedral and
tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at
the ticket office across from the Cathedrals main entrance.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12
422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Wawel
visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are timed in
an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guarantee entry
as well as avoiding the need to stand in long queues,
call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for the exhibi-
tion you want to see at least one day before you visit.
Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor Centre
Reservation Office at least 30mins before the reserved
tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal
Apartments, however foreign language guides can be
arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addition to
ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre is also the place
to get more info about various theme tours on offer, pick
up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift
shop and caf/restaurant. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. From
September open 09:00 - 19:00.
Wawel Visitor Centre
Dragons Den (Smocza
Jama) B-5, Western, low
end of Wawel Hill, www.
wawel.krakow.pl. Formed
about 25 million years ago, the
spectacular limestone forma-
tion of Wawel Hill is not the solid
piece of rock it appears to be,
but rather filled with eerie caves
and crawl spaces. As legend
would have it, the craggy cham-
bers beneath Wawel were once
home to Smok Wawelski, or the
Wawel Dragon, a particularly
nasty creature who liked noth-
ing more than to gorge himself
on sheep and local maidens. Story goes that as the village
ran out of virgins, the King promised the hand of his only
daughter to the hero who could vanquish the vile beast.
Wave upon wave of brave knights fell beneath the dragons
fiery breath before a poor cobbler named Krak tricked
Smok into eating a sheep stuffed full of sulphur, which
instantly ignited inside his gullet. With an unquenchable
thirst the dragon went and drank half the river before his
distended belly exploded and the town was freed of his
wrath. The rest, as they say, is history: Krak married the
princess, became king, built his castle on the dragons
lair and the people built a city around it named Krakw
after their king.
Smoks bones were hung triumphantly outside the entrance
of the Cathedral, where they remain today. His cave later
became a famous tavern and brothel during medieval times
and is now a tourist trap luring families into its dripping, less
than awe-inspiring confines. Save this for last as you enter
a descending staircase from inside the castle courtyard
where it overlooks the Wisa River, to be later deposited
outside the complex on the riverbank below in front of
Smoks sculpted bronze likeness unveiled in 1972 to a
design by the local artist Bronisaw Chromy. It was once
possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into
temporary raptures of fire-breathing bliss, however he now
does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient
and dont look down his throat. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. From
September open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 3z. Tickets are
purchased from a machine outside the entrance.
Dragons Den
fot. Anna Stankiewicz
93
92
KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ
History
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded on an island outside of Krakw by
King Kazimierz the Great. It was not until 1495 when Jews
began to be expelled from Krakw that they started to move
over the river to Kazimierz en masse. Awarded its Magdeburg
Rights, which allowed markets to be held on what is now Pl.
Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and became one of the most
influential Polish towns during the Middle Ages. By the 17th
century Jewish life was flourishing and numerous synagogues
had been constructed when the plague hit in 1651. Four years
later Kazimeirz was ransacked by Swedish invaders, famine,
floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick succession, and
a mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimierz a shadow of its former self.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four years
later Kazimierz was incorporated into its neighbouring city.
Ironically this would bring about the area's rebirth as the
Austrians worked hard to redevelop the city: the streets were
cobbled, the crumbling defensive walls were torn down, the
first gas lamps were illuminated in 1857, and the suburb had a
power station by 1905. The governing Austrians also ordered
all of Krakws Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and a rich cultural
life arose around them; by 1910 the Jewish population stood at
32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war
years. This, as we know, would come to a dramatic end with the
Nazi occupation of Krakw and Hitlers systematic extermina-
tion of the Jews of Europe. Herded across the river to a ghetto
in Podgrze, Krakws Jews met their end there, in Paszw, or
Beec (primarily). A mere 3-5,000 survived the Holocaust, a
large proportion of them saved by Oskar Schindler.
Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in Krakw in
1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon vanished. The
anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist authorities
sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s
signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared and the area had
become a bandit suburb. The fall of communism in 1989
sparked new hope, however; investment began trickling in,
1988 saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years
later the Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also
the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindlers List, a film
that would put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably
change its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as
high on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical
importance and public regard the area possesses.
Kazimierz - the district south of the Old Town between the
Wisa River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisa
once flowed) was the centre of Jewish li fe in Krakw for
over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed
during World War II. In the communist era it became one of
Krakws dodgiest districts while gradually falling into dis-
repair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the
regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven
Spielberg, Kazimierz has since been on the rebound and is
today Krakws most exciting district - a bustling, bohemian
neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric
cafes and art galleries. Well-known for its associations with
Schindler and Spielberg, traces of Kazimierzs Jewish history
have not only survived, but literally abound in the form of the
districts numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In
fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war
Jewish culture on the continent better than Kazimierz. As a
result, the district has become a major tourist draw and could
almost be considered a pilgrimage site for Jews, which has
led to the return of contemporary Jewish culture in the area
in recent decades. Each summer since 1988 the massively
popular Jewish Culture Festival has filled Kazimierzs streets
and cafes with music, while educating Krakws residents
and guests about the citys pre-war Jewish history and
celebrating modern Jewish culture. The fact that its one
of the years biggest parties proves that theres more to
Kazimierz than sepia photographs and old synagogues. Here
youll find the heart of Krakows artistic, bohemian character
behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and
art galleries. Peeling faades and obscure courtyards hide
dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of pre-war
timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now
known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the citys
best destination for caf culture and nightlife. Alternative,
edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential
point of interest to any visitor.
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the squares
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to sur-
vive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs incorporation into
Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-
Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jew-
ish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierzs revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons
and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change
however, with more cafs and restaurants opening
around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connect-
ing Kazimierz with Podgrze over the river to the south.
Plac Wolnica
Szeroka Street www.flickr.com, Ana Paula Hirama
Pl ac Nowy D- 6.
Whi l e Krakws mai n
square, Rynek Gwny,
makes al l t he post-
c a r d s a n d p h o t o -
graphs, i t is Plac Nowy
i n Kazi mi erz that has
emerged as the spi ri -
tual centre of Krakw
sub- cul ture. Lacki ng
the spl endour of the
Old Town, Plac Nowy is,
i f anything, something
of an eyesore - a col -
l ection of unkempt buil dings surrounding a concrete
square fill ed wi th chipped green market stalls and
rat-like pigeons flapping about. I f you want something
compl etel y di f ferent from the Ol d Town, however,
here i t is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late
17th century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted
by an oft-encountered local insistence on referring to it
as Plac ydowski (Jewish Square). For over 200 years
it has served as a market place with its central land-
mark, the Okrglak (rotunda), being added in 1900. The
rotunda was leased to the Jewish community in 1927
serving as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up
until Nazi occupation. Following the war it resumed its
role as the centre of the market around it, a function it
still carries today. Butcher shops still occupy the interior,
but the real action is to be found outside where hungry
locals are happy to line-up outside the dozen or so
hole-in-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from the
rotunda, eager to taste the best zapiekanka in Poland.
Placing their orders through the small windows youll
find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency
calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin party girls get-
ting their weeks worth of calories with this legendary
Cracovian street food. Visiting Krakw without eating
a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin
without having a Guinness.
Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310
trading stalls, and youll find something going on daily
from 5:30am till early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but
weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays,
Sundays clothing market, and Tuesday and Friday
mornings bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A
photo essay waiting to happen, arrive early to the latter
to learn the answer to the riddle, How many rabbits fit
in a suitcase?
As trade dri es up for the day the area takes on a
new guise: Krakws premi er pub crawl circui t. Find
the academi cs wi th beads, beards and secondhand
books in places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Cou-
leurs, whil e the similarl y dark and arty Mleczarnia
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the ci tys best
beer garden during the warm months. Full of sham-
boli c charm, Plac Nowy is beginning to di versi fy to a
degree wi th glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale
and Baroque, and Taawa - the first danceclub to
open on Plac Nowy.
Plac Nowy
www.placnowy.pl
What to See
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area
start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka,
coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than an
actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval
marketplace; indeed i t was here that Kazimierzs first
Jewish merchants settled, and the square is bookended
by two of the ci tys most important synagogues - the
Old Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue, whose
historic cemetery extends to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba.
Ul. Szeroka 6 (now the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant)
formerl y housed the Great Mikvah, a ri tual bathhouse
that gai ned notori ety i n 1567 when the wooden fl oor
collapsed and ten women drowned. Nearby beneath a
ring of maples at the streets northern end is a memorial
and Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000
Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow. Today
ul. Szerokas pi cturesque cobbl ed lanes are pri maril y
lined with businesses and restaurants tastefully aimed
at tourists like Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) - so named
because the Queen of Cosmetics was born next door at
number 14, and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago
in Kazimierz, ul. Szeroka 1), with its row of faux Jewish
shop fronts; next door youll find Jarden (ul. Szeroka 2),
the areas first Jewish bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Jzefa just past the Old Synagogue,
youll find the High Synagogue at number 38, so called
because the prayer room was located on the first floor. Today
it houses the Austeria bookshop (see Shopping) and a small
exhibition space with rotating historical exhibits about the
history of Polands Jewish population. Along this block of ul.
Jzefa you can easily spot indentations left by mezuzahs,
and a Hebrew inscription on the building next door to the
High Synagogue. Make a right onto ul. Kupa (literally Poop
Street in English, at least thats the PG version) to visit the
Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored interi-
ors now house a permanent exhibition titled In Memory of
Polish Jews. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee
was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire to it.
The synagogue is also the source of an enchanting legend.
It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but impoverished
Jew who once had a dream telling him if he went to Prague he
would discover great treasures buried by a bridge. Following
his instincts he set off to Prague, only to find the bridge he
had dreamt of surrounded by a garrison of soldiers. Having
spotted him loitering, one of the soldiers confronted the Jew,
demanding to know what he was up to. Isaac came clean,
only for the soldier to scoff words to the effect of Fool, Ive
been having dreams all my life about a Krakw Jew called
Isaac who has treasure hidden under his stove. But Im not
stupid enough to go to Krakw, especially seeing that every
second Jew is named Isaac. You can probably guess the
rest: the moment Isaac returned home he pulled the stove
down and discovered a wealth of riches, making him the
wealthiest man in Kazimierz.
The street that bears his name (ul. Izaaka) leads you to
Plac Nowy (D-6), formerly known as Plac ydowski (Jewish
Square) and still today the districts bustling epicentre, lined
with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your
tour head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6)
to find what many regard as Krakws most picturesque
passageway on your left, which should be immediately
recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes
from Spielbergs Schindlers List. Along the way youll pass
the Judaica Foundation at ul. Meiselsa 17 and arguably
Krakws best beer garden (Mleczarnia) if youre here during
the warm season.
94 95
winter). Recommended for families and more fun than it sounds,
the science exhibits will hold kids interest long enough for Dad
to look at car engines, while Mom dreams of escaping on that
motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5.5z, family ticket 24z. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etno-
muzeum.eu. Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore
enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usu-
ally gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. Theres not
enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights inside,
including beauti ful recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of the
so-called Nativity Cribs, the breathtaking top floor collection
of folk art and two reproduced folk rooms - Izba Podhalaska
and Izba Krakowska. With many of the exhibits explained in
good English, all we need say is it does a highly commendable
job of promoting and explaining Polish folk culture, and cant
come recommended enough. A separate gallery for changing
exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum (ydowskie Muzeum
Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of late
award-winning photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, the permanent
exhibit of the Galicia Jewish Museum (Traces of Memory) is
comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at keeping the
memory of Jewish life in southern Poland alive in the aftermath
of the Holocaust. Schwarzs images of forgotten cemeteries,
derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and
sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any
Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition serves as the focal point,
the converted warehouse also houses small temporary exhibits,
a caf, information point and a large bookstore selling a range
of titles of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
15/10z, family ticket 30z. Children under 7 free. Guided tours for
groups of over 10: 13.50/8z per person; individual guided tours:
60z/30-45mins, 100z/60mins. Tours available in English. Y
KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ
Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa) D/E-
6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net. This massive
brick beauty from the 14th century takes up two entire blocks
in Kazimierz, making it one of the citys largest holy sites. A
three-naver in the Gothic style, the pulpit features a golden boat
(with oars and a mast even) being held aloft by two mermaids.
And though there are few things we like more than mermaids,
the crowning glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece
(removed for renovation unfortunately). According to legend,
a robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests
in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and
discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recogni-
tion of the miracle. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Sun
06:30 - 20:00. Not visiting during mass please.
Skaka (Koci Paulinw, Pauline Church) C-7,
West end of ul. Skaeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl. Commonly referred to as Skaka,
this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most important
religious sites in Krakw, with a fair share of history. In 1079, King
Bolesaw the Bold accused the bishop of Krakw, Stanisaw
Szczepaski, of treason. According to legend, the bishop was
beheaded with the sword seen next to the altar and then his
body was chopped into pieces on a tree stump. After the murder,
the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the
wronged bishop, the family built the Pauline Church and made
regular pilgrimages there to atone for the murder. Szczepaski
was canonised in 1253. The Skaka crypt is packed tight with
important Poles including composer Karol Szymanowski, writer
Czesaw Miosz and painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek
Malczewski. Q Open 06:30 - 19:00; Wed,Sun 06:30 - 20:00.
Crypt open 09:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Museums
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish museums
are catching up with the modern world, this charming museum
inside an old tram depot features five separate exhibitions. The
first two deal with the history of public transport in Krakw and
the development of the Polish automotive industry through a
hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection of
unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of print-
ing in Krakw from the 15th to 20th centuries, while the other
two are fun, interactive exhibits aimed at children and families.
Around the Circle teaches kids fundamental scientific principles
via 30 hands-on play stations, and the outdoor Garden Of New
Words (Ogrdek Nowych Swek) is more like a playground for
3-5 year-olds where theyll learn first-hand the meaning of words
such as gravity (open in nice weather only and closed in autumn/
The Old Synagogue
Ethnographic Museum
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Skaka
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do also put
aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul. Miodowa
24, D-6), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6) and
New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55, E-6) - all of which
are nearby and essential points of interest. Kazimierz is not
exclusively Jewish, however, with several noteworthy Catholic
churches moored in the district. The most noteworthy is
Skaka (ul. Skaeczna, C-7), where Stanisaw, the Bishop
of Szczepanw, was murdered and then quartered at the
whim of King Bolesaw the Bold; a blood-splattered stone
can allegedly be seen beside the altar. Stanisaw went on in
death to become the patron saint of Poland, and Skaka is
also the final resting place of local heroes Czesaw Miosz
and Stanisaw Wyspiaski. Kazimierz is also home to some
of Krakws most popular museums; both the City Engineer-
ing Museum (ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic
Museum (Plac Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking
the kids and keeping them entertained.
City Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Informa-
tion on what to see and whats going on in Kazimierz.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to Auschwitz-
Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
ydowska) D-7, ul. Skawiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 430
54 11, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 130
members and organises events and gatherings for the
Jewish community in Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Jewi sh Communi ty Centr e (Centr um
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6,
ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.
jcckrakow.org. The headquarters of Krakws surviv-
ing and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organ-
ises numerous events (check website for calendar) and
exhibits, arranges tours, and is home to a large library
of Jewish related materials. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Useful Contacts
97
96
PODGRZE KAZIMIERZ
New Jewish Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This
enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the
burial ground for many of Krakws distinguished Jews in the
19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker
aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between
1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no
more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the
Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuve-
nation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the
New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning
over the headstones. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat.
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka 24,
tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the cusp
of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue serves as
the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in
Poland and is home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase the
history and traditions of Polish Judaism. It is no longer a working
synagogue. The English explanations assume no great depth
of knowledge on the readers part and are therefore a perfect
primer on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands
the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade.
There are also temporary exhibitions held from time to time
particularly during the citys Jewish festival held towards the
end of June. The bookshop sells a fine selection of works
related to Jewish Krakw, in a number of languages. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Remuh
z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430
54 11. The smallest but most active synagogue in Kazimierz,
dating from 1553. Under normal circumstances, if you enter
quietly, you may even be afforded a glimpse of a service.
Currently however, restoration works mean youll need to
make an appointment to see the interior or stroll through the
cemetery which was in use until 1800. This holy burial ground
was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis because many of
the gravestones had been buried to avoid desecration during
the 19th century occupation of Krakw by Austrian forces.
Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century Rabbi Moses
Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside him lies his wife,
Golda Auerbach, in the cemeterys oldest tomb. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Kazimierzs
newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later
expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under
Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and
stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even
held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade
later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays
host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies,
particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission 5/2z.
When Spi el ber g came to
Krakw to produce his award-
winning film Schindlers List,
the resul t was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of
Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, how-
ever, it didnt reach across the
river to Podgrze, despite the
fact most of the films historic
events took place there, as
did much of the filming. As
Kazi mi erz became super-
saturated with tourists and
bars, predictions were that
Podgrze would emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian
district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes,
things were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the
beaten path in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to
Podgrze. Since the opening of Schindlers Factory as a major
attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge
creating a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that
has begun to change, but Podgrze remains Krakws most
mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual at-
tractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date from
over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in
the 17th century saw much of Podgrze levelled. Awarded the
rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph
II, the town was eventually incorporated as Krakws fourth
district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive
development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and
a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5)
is the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to
the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history
are what people most associate with the district.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in
Kazimierz were marched across the Powstancw lskich
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgrze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, includ-
ing a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4).
Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghettos
residents were murdered there, while others met death in the
nearby Liban quarry and Paszw concentration camp, or
in the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau. The opening
of the Schindlers Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa 4) has, in
addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust,
finally endorsed Podgrzes status as a bona fide tourist
destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend
an entire day exploring Podgrze and a walk up into the hills
is not only a great way to get off the beaten path - its also
Krakws most evocative area.
Krakus Mound (Ko-
piec Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryews-
kiego. The oldest struc-
ture in Krakw, Krakus
Mound i s one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn sum-
mit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of Al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineer-
ing, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried be-
neath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mounds
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Kraks mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
citys first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric earth-
work - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas
Mound; conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The
legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern creation of
burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski and today
they remain one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries.
Krakus Mound
St. Benedicts Church
Father Bernatek Foot-
bridge (Kadka Ojca Ber-
natka) J- 4. September 30,
2010 saw the grand opening
of (gasp!) a new footbridge in
the ci ty. Not that everyones
been crying out for one, the brand new Father Bernatek
Footbridge (Kadka Ojca Bernatka) straddling the Wisa
and linking Kazimierz with Podgrze in the south of
the city occupies a site between ul. Mostowa and ul.
Budziskiego where several road bridges have stood
in its place before, the last being dismantled way back
in 1925. The leaf-shaped, 130m, 700-tonne structure
which has been built to accommodate both pedestrians
and cyclists was designed by a local company led by the
architect Andrzej Getter, coming in slightly over budget
at a sobering 30 million zoty, a controversial sum for
many Krakw dwellers who believe the money could be
spent more wisely and who also object to the name. [The
name of the bridge honours a certain Laetus Bernatek
(1847-1927), a monk and pharmacist who helped build
a hospital in the city among other philanthropic deeds.]
Others disagree, seeing the money well spent as part of
the continuing revitalisation of both areas at either end.
Among the other names bandied about but discarded
were Podgrze Footbridge and Charles Footbridge,
although local revellers refer to it as the Party Bridge, a
fitting moniker as its presence speeds up the process of
getting from the clutch of bars and clubs situated at either
end. A second footbridge is planned for the city, although
disputes over where exactly to put the thing are ongoing.
Father Bernatek Footbridge
Synagogues & Jewish Cemeteries
High Synagogue E- 6, ul. Jozefa 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 68 89. The third oldest synagogue in Krakw, the High
Synagogue was completed in 1563, and is unique for having
its prayer room upstairs; its widely theorised that this was a
safety precaution to protect the congregation from unfriendly
neighbours. The design didnt save it from being the subject
of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain.
The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details,
however, including the Holy Ark, two golden gri ffins have
survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals
have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and
quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was
a magnificent space before its destruction. Today admission
is paid to go upstairs to the prayer room, where visitors will
also see a small temporary museum exhibit. On the ground
floor is a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a
variety of languages. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to
upstairs exhibit 9/6z, children under 10 free.
Isaac Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul. Kupa
18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.
pl. The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a
wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strik-
ingly beauti ful of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches yet retaining a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not
least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to
provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher
food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items. Q Open
08:30 - 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4z.
98 99
PODGRZE PODGRZE
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone
cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest, small-
est and most mysterious churches in the clearing next to
the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present structure has
been hard to determine, but the curious site certainly dates
back to the 11th century and a leading theory attributes it
to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction
and dereliction by a local priest the tiny, cramped interior -
consisting of only a small nave and chancel with a painting
of St. Benedict over the pulpit - has been restored, but can
only be accessed twice a year: on St. Benedicts Name Day
(July 16th) and, ironically, during the pagan Rkawka festival
held the first Tuesday after Easter.
St. Josephs J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over the
heart of historic Podgrze on the south side of the districts
main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was
built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki.
Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry
dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Josephs
slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most
beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The
interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the
abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping
behind the church - all that remains of the original temple,
dismantled due to design flaws.QOpen during mass only
and by prior arrangement.
Museums
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muze-
um Sztuki Wspczesnej w Krakowie) K- 4, ul.
Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl.
Opened on May 20th 2011, Krakows Museum of Contem-
porary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave
reviews from all who have been thus far. Tucked behind
Schindlers Factory, the building alone will impress with its
avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum
boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern
art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus
the Mieczysaw Porbski Library and its collection of works
on art theory and history. Several provocative temporary
exhi bi ti ons are ever-changing: check their websi te for
details. Despite the relatively late closing hour (19:00),
make sure to leave yoursel f plenty of time to enjoy all the
museum has to offer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5z,
family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Schindlers Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) K- 4,
ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl.
After years of preparati on, the Oskar Schi ndl er Enam-
el l ed Goods Factory (to gi ve i t i ts ful l name) re-opened
to the publ i c as a worl d-cl ass museum i n June 2010.
The story of Oskar Schi ndl er and hi s empl oyees i s one
whi ch has been wel l -known si nce the book and fi l m by
Thomas Keneal l y and Steven Spi el berg (whose fi l m
Schindlers List was shot al most enti rel y i n Krakw),
and whi l e that story i s now covered i n detai l on the
ori gi nal si te, the museum casts the ci ty of Krakw i n
the mai n rol e of i ts permanent exhi bi ti on ti tl ed, Krakw
During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945. Indi vidual histories
of Krakws warti me i nhabi tants gui de vi si tors through
the exhi bi t whi ch covers the war of 1939, Krakws rol e
as the seat of the General Government, everyday l i fe
under occupati on, the fate of the Jews and the ci tys
underground resistance using vast archi val documents,
photos, radi o and fi l m recordi ngs, peri od artefacts and
dynami c mul ti medi a i nstal l ati ons. A separate secti on
of the factory i s reserved for fi l m screeni ngs, l ectures
and other cul tural events, and another l arge part of
the factory was controversi al l y converted to host MO-
CAK - the contemporary art museum whi ch opened i n
spri ng 2011.
The development of Schindlers Factory into a world-class
educational and cultural site is great news not only for
tourists, but also for Podgrze and the healing process
of the city itsel f as it reconciles one of the most painful
chapters of i ts history. A must-visi t, this is one of the
most fascinating museums in the entire country and we
recommend you reserve at least two hours i f you want to
see everything. Note that visiting groups need to book in
advance using the museum website. To get there take a
tram to Pl. Bohaterw Getta (J-4) and its a 5-10 minute
walk down ul. Kcik, under the train overpass, onto ul.
Lipowa and youre there. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon
10:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 90 minutes before closing.
Admission 19/16z, famil y ti cket 50z. Guided tours in
English for groups of over 15 people, 150z. Mon free for
permanent exhibitions.
Places of Interest
Ol d Podgrze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz
Podgrski) K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and
ul. Powstancw Wielopolskich. Podgrzes pri mary
necropolis for over a hundred years, the Old Podgrze Cem-
etery is/was the resting place of the formerly independent
citys most distinguished citizens. Established in the late
18th century, the cemeterys grand arched gateway is set
back from a busy intersection on a hill behind the iconic
sculpture of God the Father. Unfortunately, with the excep-
tion of a few, many of the most notable graves have been
lost during the boneyards turbulent history. Crossing the
stone entry, the first grave on the right is the resting place
of Edward Dembowski - leader of the 1846 Krakw Upris-
ing, laid to rest here in a collective grave with 28 insurgents
shot by the Austrian Army; nearby is the Bednarski family
vault, where Wojciech - founder of Podgos most beauti ful
park - reposes. Closed upon reaching capacity in 1900, the
Germans levelled a third of the cemetery during WWII while
building a railway. Even more grievous was the sites reduc-
tion to a fraction of its original size during the construction
of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich in the 1970s, when almost
all the graves were destroyed or strewn haphazardly about.
Like much of the district today, the cemeterys charm lies in
the nostalgic character of its general neglect and vanishing
beauty. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K- 4, ul. Lwowska 25-29.
Krakws most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983, a com-
memorative plaque was raised, which reads in Hebrew and
Polish: Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the
German torturers. From here they began their final journey
to the death camps.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K-5, ul. Limanowskiego 69.
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the
original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind
the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 62. Those looking
to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the
steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight
up to the Old Podgrze Cemetery, to the right from which is
the abandoned Fort Benedict.
Starmach Gallery (Former Zucher Synagogue)
J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.
starmach.eu. Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick
building was one of four former prayer houses within the
area of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6
and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa 7.
Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans during the
war (though it continued in secret) and the synagogue was
converted into a warehouse and then a factory. When the
ghetto was established, many valuable religious artefacts
from Kazi mi erz synagogues were transferred here for
protection, however the eventual liquidation of the ghetto
guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After the war the
building slowly fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa
Starmach rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turn-
ing it into one of the largest and most renowned private art
galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding and a
visit is highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto Heroes
Square, formerly Plac Zgody) J-4. First plot-
ted out in 1836, this public square just across the
river from the Powstacw lskich bridge has had a
turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During the time of the Krakw Ghetto it was
at once the source of the residents greatest relief and
also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation.
As the ghettos largest open space, Plac Zgody was a
place for people to socialise, relax and escape the op-
pressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the
site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to
the death camps, beatings and executions. Following
deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac
Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and
other belongings that the victims had been forced to
abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of
the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody
was changed to Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto Heroes
Square) and a small monument was erected, the spaces
historical significance never felt more pertinent than its
post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after
decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterw Getta was renovated
in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design.
Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the most iconic place in
Podgrze. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs
meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent
absence, the entire square has essentially been turned
into an evocative memorial to the victims of the Krakw
Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was also added
within the small, former bus terminal building at the north
end of the square, however it still goes sadly ignored (see
if you can do something about that).
During the war, Plac Bohaterw Getta 6 was the regular
meeting point of the Jewish Combat Organisation
(OB), as noted by a plaque on the front of the building.
Krakws Jewish underground resistance orchestrated
acts of sabotage outside the ghetto, with their greatest
success coming in December 1942 when a grenade
detonated inside the Cyganeria Caf - a popular meet-
ing place for Nazi officers on ul. Szpitalnia - killing and
wounding several Germans. Plac Bohaterw Getta
18 - on the south side of the square at the corner of ul.
Targowa - was the site of Pankiewiczs famous Apteka
Pod Orem, now a branch of the Krakw History Museum
with exhibits depicting life in the ghetto. Every year on the
Sunday following the March 14th liquidation of the ghetto,
a remembrance parade honouring the victims sets off
from Plac Bohaterw Getta to the Holocaust monument
on the site of the former Paszw camp.
Plac Bohaterw Getta
Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0
Fragments of the ghetto wall at the playground on ul.
Limanowskiego.
101
100
JEWISH GHETTO JEWISH GHETTO
from Rynek Podgrski on ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another
on the east end of ul. Limanowskiego near its intersection
with ul. Rkawka and ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at
the intersection of ul. Lwowska and ul. Jzefiska (K-4), and
another at Plac Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterw
Getta, J-4). A tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though
it made no stops, food and other valuable commodities
frequently found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewiczs Apteka Pod Orem
on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside the
ghetto, particularly in the Zabocie industrial district, which
included Oskar Schindlers enamelware factory at ul.
Lipowa 4 (K-4).
Deportations
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move to
the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what else
to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to their
families in the Krakw Ghetto.
Phar macy Under
the Eagle (Apteka
Pod Orem) J- 4, Pl.
Bohaterw Getta 18,
tel. (+48) 12 656 56
25, www.mhk.pl. When
the Nazis created the Jew-
ish ghetto in Podgrze in
1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterw Getta and its
Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at
the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his
staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the
ghetto and over the two years of the ghettos existence,
Apteka Pod Orem became an important centre of social
life as well as aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsi-
fied documents and avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz
(recognised today as one of the Righteous Among the
Nations) and his staff risked their lives in many clan-
destine operations while bearing witness to tragedy
through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto
and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately liquidated.
Today the building is a branch of the Krakw Historical
Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupa-
tion, which through traditional and multimedia displays,
and extensive testimonials from both Poles and Jews,
heartrendingly describes life in the Krakw Ghetto. In-
formation is displayed inside the chests and cupboards
of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle
dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs,
heightening the reality of the events described and creat-
ing a very intimate visiting experience. Though compris-
ing only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting
this excellent museum. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
Pharmacy Under the Eagle
I mmortal i sed by Thomas Ke-
neal l y s book Schi ndl ers
Ark, and then later in the mas-
si vel y successful Spi el ber g
fi l m Schindlers List, Oskar
Schindler is a name synonymous
with Krakw. A hard-drinking, war-
profiteering playboy, Schindler
does not fit the standard mould
for a hero, though neither was
he a stereotypical Nazi. Credited
with saving 1,200 Jews his ac-
tions continue to serve as an example and inspiration,
and stand as one of the most heartening stories of the
Holocaust.
Early Years
Born on April 28, 1908 in what is now the town of Svitavy
in the Czech Republic, Schindler enjoyed a privileged
upbringing and was childhood friends with the Jewish
family residing next door. The 1930s economic crisis saw
his family's firm slide into bankruptcy, and like so many
disaffected Germans he signed up with the Nazi party.
In Krakw
Hot on the heels of the invading German army Schindler
found himself arriving in Krakw in 1939 where he took
charge of a formerly Jewish-owned enamel factory.
Motivated by greed he principally employed cut-price
Jewish labour, and involved himself in the thriving black
market. Living a care-free, lavish lifestyle his world and
motives appear to have changed after witnessing the
liquidation of the Podgrze Ghetto. Both Keneally and
Spielberg pay particular importance to his fascination
with the plight of a small girl dressed in a red cape and
Schindler would later claim, Beyond this day, no think-
ing person could fail to see what would happen. I was
now resolved to do everything in my power to defeat the
system. He arranged for workers housed in the notorious
Paszw concentration camp to be moved to his factory,
shielding them time and time again from deportation and
death through bribery and cunning. With the war coming
to a close, and his Jews facing the prospect of death
marches and gas chambers, he miraculously managed
to persuade the Nazi authorities to relocate his factory
and his workers to Brunlitz (a sub-camp of Gross-Rosen)
in 1944. Estimates suggest he spent four million marks
during the war on protecting his workers, with his wife
even selling her jewellery so as to provide funds for
medicine and food. Moreover, in the seven months he
spent as director of a shell factory in Brunlitz, not one
working shell left the production line.
Post-War
Following the war he emigrated to Argentina with his wife
to settle as a farmer, though by 1957 he was declared
bankrupt and returned to Germany alone. Financial woes
were to dog him for the rest of his life. Regarded as a trai-
tor to the fatherland he was cold shouldered by Germans
and more business ventures fell by the wayside. By the
time of his death in 1974 he was fully dependent on the
charity of those he had saved. Buried in Jerusalem, his
acts of courage have been honoured by Yad Vashem as
one of the Righteous Amongst Nations. Schindler sights
in Krakw include the house at ul. Starszewskiego 7
where he lived before moving permanently into his fac-
tory at ul. Lipowa 4. After a long wait, the factory is now
open to the public as a museum.
Oskar Schindler
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre of
Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an important
cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews - one quarter
of the citys total population - who enjoyed the citys relatively
tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish community began
almost immediately following German occupation in early
September 1939, however. Despite an increasing series of
regulations restricting the civil rights and personal freedom
of Jews, more and more were arriving in Krakw from the rest
of PL in the hope of finding safety amidst the citys dense
community. In October 1939, the Nazis registered 68,482
Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directl y
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result
of resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population
was reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain
the economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
Establishment
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wchter, Governor of the Krakw
district, decreed the establishment of a new Jewish Housing
District on the right bank of the Wisa River in the district
of Podgrze. What would become known as the Krakw or
Podgrze Ghetto initially comprised an approximately 20
hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-
story buildings in Podgrzes historic centre bound by the river
and the Krzemionki hills to the north and south, and between
the Krakw-Paszw rail line and Podgrzes market square
to the east and west. In the 17 days between the ghettos es-
tablishment and the March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline,
approximately 3,000 original residents of the district were
relocated across the river to be replaced by some 16,000
Jews, whose property and possessions were confiscated
with the exception of what they could carry into the ghetto.
Thousands of unregistered Jews also illegally entered the
ghetto seeking protection, bringing the total population of
the Krakw Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one apartment
allocated for every four families and an average of two square
metres of living space per person. Windows facing Aryan
Podgrze were bricked or boarded up to prevent contact
with the outside world and a 3 metre high wall was erected
around the confines of the ghetto, crowned with arches con-
scientiously designed to resemble Jewish tombstones. Four
guarded entrance gates accessed the ghetto - the main gate
Main gate into the ghetto from Rynek Podgrski, 1941
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the
Nazis began to initiate The Final Solution - Hitlers systematic
plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. May 29th 1942
was the first of ten days of terror within the Krakw Ghetto
as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all documents were
inspected. Those who couldnt produce proper work permits
were assembled on Plac Zgody before being transferred to
Paszw rail station, loaded into cattle cars in groups of 120,
and sent to Beec death camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by
the initial numbers, the Germans continued their arbitrary
round-ups for days. One June 6th all previous documents
were declared invalid and ghetto occupants were required
to apply for a new Blauschein or Blue Pass; those that were
denied likewise met their deaths in Beec, including popular
poet and songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter
Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews had
been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot in the
streets. Two weeks later the area of the ghetto was reduced
almost by half to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and
demarcated by barbed wire. The increased density of the
population and increasing brutality of the Germans set off
a wave of suicides, but worse was to come. Work was also
beginning on the nearby Paszw labour camp, which would
eventually portend the end of the ghetto.
In October the Germans announced that the ghetto would
be consolidated again and selections began anew, with no
regard toward employment status, age or health. Sources
di ffer on the exact numbers, but at least another 4,500
victims were sent to Beec and some 600 were shot inside
the ghetto. Many children, orphans and sick people were
sent to the newly established Paszw labour camp, only to
be murdered. Afterwards the area east of Plac Zgody ceased
to be part of the ghetto, and a month later the remaining ter-
ritory was divided into two sections: Ghetto A was reserved
for the healthiest, most able-bodied residents, and Ghetto
B for those less desirable and destined for deportation.
Residents of Ghetto A began commuting daily to work on the
construction of Paszw labour camp, and after Amon Goeth
arrived in Krakw as its new Camp Commandant the pace
of the camps development hastened the ghettos demise.
Liquidation
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the Krakw
Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000 Jews (some
sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were immediately
transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto B and all children
under 14 were ordered to assemble on Plac Zgody the next
day. Despite likely knowing what lay in store, many mothers
stayed behind when Ghetto A was liquidated, refusing to
abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of
it - was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape were
shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets (some
estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving almost
as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
103
102
SALWATOR SALWATOR
Being that Salwator has always been Krakws most green,
ancient and affluent district, its a bit of a wonder why more
people dont visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work
of researching this seldom written about area, however,
were happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the areas
main attraction is the stunning Kociuszko Mound and
surrounding forti fications, but the scenic ascent to the
mound is almost as pleasant as the earthwork itself and
makes a perfect escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle
of the city centre. Essentially comprising one long, virtually
traffic-less, tree-lined avenue flanked by ancient churches,
atmospheric cemeteries and grand villas - which begins at
the citys largest sacral complex and summits atop the citys
most magnificent overlook - Salwator should hold plenty of
enchantment for visitors.
What to See
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
theres the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the
tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies
St. Bronisawas Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises
above the Old Town between the Wisa River and the Rudawa
- one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts
at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4) - Krakws largest sacral complex. Consecrated way
back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters
of this immaculate convent were the first female religious
congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influ-
ence over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Krakws
mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city
proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of
Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the
Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kociuszko and, in
addition to the convents Church of St. Augustine and John
the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawas Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. w. Bronisawy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the
Maopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is
the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. w. Bronisawy (as it turns into Al. Waszyn-
gtona) about 500 metres on the left and youll arrive at the
Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Krakws most picturesque
necropolis. However, as youre en route, dont miss taking
a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small
looping alley off the main lane. Though the name Salwator
has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding
district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally
referred strictly to this small Garden City of 30 villas built
to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One
of Krakws most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna
has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and
its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The
highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the
right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa
on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same
that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great
number of statues and stone effigies.
Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where it
bears right and youre at the foot of the Kociuszko Mound
and fortifications (F-3), one of Krakws most unique at-
tractions. While youre at the top, take a turn away from the
Old Town for a moment and youll see the rolling expanse of
Wolski Forest (Las Wolski) with the Camaldolese Monastery
and Pisudski Mound peaking out of the trees to the west.
The road that lead you this far will also take you deep enough
to find these further Zwierzyniec sights, as well as Krakws
Zoo, but bear in mind that you could easily spend an additional
day just hiking throughout this scenic woodland.
Norbertine Monastery G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88, tel.
(+48) 12 427 13 18, www.norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.
Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters
of Saint Norberts in 1148, this fortified monastery has been
destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout the centuries,
seemingly irresistible to the marauding Tartar hordes whose
proficiency at razing architectural marvels has been well noted
by history. The structures seen today within the monasterys
many courtyards and high, crenulated walls were rebuilt at
the turn of the 17th century and the interiors date to the 18th
century. The baroque Church of St. Augustine and John the
Baptist (open during mass only) can be entered through the
13th century Romanesque portal beneath the tower or through
the outer courtyard. There have been two sisters canonised
from the Cracovian order of Norbertine Sisters, Saint Emilia
Podoska and Saint Bronisawa renowned for her righteous-
ness. Some of Krakws most important traditions are also
connected with the monastery: here and along the banks of
the Rudawa the Emmaus festival has been celebrated every
year since the 12th century on the Monday after Easter (April
1st, 2013). It is also from here that the Lajkonik procession
the foremost symbol of Krakw sets off each year in June,
due no doubt to the convents magnetism towards Tartars.
Chapel of St. Margaret (Kaplica w. Magorzaty)
G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy 8, tel. (+48) 12 424 43 60, www.
parafiasalwator.pl. This unique octagonal chapel is one of
only three wooden temples left in Krakw. Originally built as
a cemetery chapel, throughout its long history it was burned
many times (wonder how that happened?) with its present
structure having been built in 1690. In ironic, yet typical, con-
trast to the pre-Slavic pagan god of the wind named Powist
who once stood at this site, today youll find a statue of Pope
John Paul II erected in 2008. The baroque 17th century altar
within the charming chapel was borrowed from the Church of
the Holy Saviour just across the street (G-3). Q Open during
mass only from April to October when services are held on the
second and fourth Sundays of those months.
Church of the Holy Saviour (Koci Najwitszego
Salwatora) G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy 9, www.parafiasalwa-
tor.pl. One of Krakws oldest and most modestly beautiful
churches, the Church of the Holy Savior stands atop a former
early Slavic temple. In fact, archaeologists have dated this site
as far back as the 10th century and some have even posited
that it may be the first Catholic site in all of Poland. First men-
tioned in writing back in 1148, you might be familiar with its
history since then: burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt
in the 17th century as you see it today. The age of the site can
be most felt in the interior which includes precious frescoes from
the early 16th century. Surrounding the church is a small, scenic
cemetery, including a wall-tomb for the Sisters who maintained
it and an old gravediggers cottage. Q Open during mass only.
Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3,
Al. Waszyngtona. This intimate, hill-side graveyard was
ordained in 1865 and offers fantastic views of the Wisa.
Perhaps the sanctuarys most famous daisy-pusher is one
of its most recent tenants popular sci-fi author Stanisaw
Lem, put to earth here in 2006. Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Kociuszko Mound (Kopiec Kociuszki) F-3, Al.
Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 09, www.kopieckos-
ciuszki.pl. History produces few men like Tadeusz Kociuszko
(1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War
of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against
foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was
described by Thomas Jefferson as the purest son of liberty
that I have ever known. Upon his passing Polish authorities de-
manded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the
Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the countrys love of Kociuszko
that the people proposed to honour him with a monument in
the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak and Wanda
- and to make it the grandest in Krakw. With the approval of
the Norbertine Sisters who granted the land, city authorities
began developing an artificial burial mound to be constructed
atop Bronisawa Hill in Zwierzyniec. When construction began
there was no lack of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held,
followed by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts
from Kociuszkos illustrious life were placed - as well as soil
from his many battlefields, including those in America - before
friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first
wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages
from all over Poland brought soil from their homes and villages
to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its
oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed
in November 1823, Kociuszko Mound stands 34 metres high,
326 metres above sea level. A boulder from the Tatra Moun-
tains, which on a clear day can be seen on the horizon from the
top of the mound, was placed at the top with the inscription,
Kociuszce (To Kociuszko).
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities took
over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building a brick
fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use the location as
a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St. Bronisawa
at the site, the Austrians, in their gentility, built a new chapel,
incorporating it into the stronghold. Quite contrarily, the Ger-
mans later threatened to demolish the Mound and surrounding
fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set about
destroying all Polish monuments and national symbols (along
with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were
destroyed, the Mound survived the war better than the countrys
population, 16% of which were casualties of Nazi and Soviet
bloodshed. Today the fortress has been rebuilt and significant
engineering improvements have been made to the Mound to
ensure its longevity, including a vital drainage system.
Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the panoramic
views of Krakw are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic
Chapel of St. Bronisawa, whi ch contains a medl ey of
objects connected to Kociuszkos life, can also be visited
and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a
radio station, restaurant, wax museum and five additional
historical exhibitions. Admission is included with the mound
to all exhibits and the hours are also the same, except for
two exhibits: Cracovian Mounds, and Kociuszko - The First
Chapter (Open 09:30 - 19:00). Q Mound open daily from
09:00 - 21:00; night tour of the mound Fr, Sat, Sun 21:00 -
23:00, exhibitions 09:30 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing Admission 11/9z.
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a
twenty-five minute walk from the main market square
and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or
6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3).
Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow
the recreational path along the Wisa River from Wawel
Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the
Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint
Bronisawas Hill to Kociuszko Mound is a slight grade
1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for
anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive
to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot
or by bike is certainly the recommended method for
those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task.
Getting to Salwator
As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are
a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Mon-
astery (G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88). The first is to do with
Saint Bronisawa herself, who after being visited by the
Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack
(which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord
tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow),
managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent
hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of
course destroyed and Saint Bronisawa spent the rest
of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a
God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every
damn weekend. She died in 1259.
Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell
and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between
attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck
the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the
Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they
would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the
Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to
witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to
the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on
their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were
skewered or drowned in the Wisa River, except for one
who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people,
the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower
of the Sisters ravaged monastery. After several failed
attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life
ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface.
Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell
interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those
it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel
tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the
river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St.
Johns Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can
be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight
when the clock on the Market Square sounds.
Norbertine Legends
Komitet Kopca Kociuszki
105
NOWA HUTA
104
LAS WOLSKI
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two
entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other
being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural Mountains), and one of the
finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in an
attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intel-
lectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision to build NH
was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few
years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up
at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide,
tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Hutas
architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspira-
tion coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New
York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was
key, and the suburb was designed with efficient mutual control
in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the
profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while
the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realized. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
What To See
Jump off a tram at Plac Centralny and find yourself at the
very nucleus of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central
Square is a masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the
brainchild of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of
irony, this Soviet landmark which once bore Stalins name
was officially re-designated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004,
though speak to any local and youll still find it referred to as
Pl. Centralny. While this square serves as the focal point for
visitors, its the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2) that Nowa Huta
is known for, not to mention named after. As Poland rebuilt
itself from near complete destruction after WWII, steel was
of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954
the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some
40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million
tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel
Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Krakws
Rynek on one state visit to Poland. Found on the end of al.
Solidarnoci the entrance to what is known as the Sendzimir
Steelworks has been given the full socialist makeover, with
two concrete monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings
of Poland. Youll hear the natives referring to this architectural
masterstroke as the Vatican, poking fun at the grandeur it
was meant to emulate. Ironically, the Steelworks are even
more less accessible to tourists than the Vatican, so you can
give up any ideas of getting past the main gates.
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist show-
case city, but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist
activity and played a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the
early 1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to build
the citys first church; though it took 28 years, The Lords Ark
(Koci Arka Pana) was finally consecrated in 1977. While
much of NH is the product of the last half century, a true
tour of the area reveals a number of treasures of much older
historical value. The most epitomising example of a pre-steel
age in the area has to be Wandas Mound a mysterious
prehistoric earthwork that proves the areas settlement
predates that of Krakws Old Town. The quiet communities
of Krzesawice and Mogia each hide pristine examples of
ancient Polish sacral architecture in the wooden churches
of St. John the Baptist and St. Bartholomew. Artist Jan
Matejko enjoyed Krzesawice so much he used it as an art-
ist retreat as his preserved period manor house evidences.
Mogia meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished reli-
gious sites in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and
its morbidly miraculous cross. If youve more time to explore,
a walking or cycling tour of Mogias small back roads is akin
to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for the
German shepherds behind every garden fence.
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dwrzec Gwny (the train station
stop), or tram 22 from Starowilna both go straight to
Plac Centralny in about 20mins.
Getting to Nowa Huta
Roses Avenue (Aleja R)
Despite the density of visitors to Krakw since the budget airline
boom, its still incredibly easy to derail yourself from the tourist trail.
One of Krakws best diversions is Las Wolski (Wolski Forest) - a
massive protected woodland atop several hills that majestically
tower over the city centre a mere 8km to the west (just beyond
Salwator and Kociuszko Mound). The forests close proximity
and easy access make it one of the best recreational areas
available to Cracovians; Las Wolskis 422 hectares (1042 acres)
include eight marked hiking trails (total length 35km/22 miles),
a cycling path, horse-riding trail and cross-country skiing route.
In addition to being an important local recreational enclave and
wildlife habitat for deer, badgers, hares, foxes and other critters,
the forest also shelters several tourist destinations, including the
Krakw Zoo, Pilsudski Mound and the mysterious Camaldo-
lese Monastery atop Srebrna Gra (Silver Mountain).
Krakw Zoo ul. Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa 14
(Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.
pl. First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park offering
visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of almost
300 species, but still manageable in size. Most of the exhibits
are outdoors in the natural setting of the surrounding Wolski
Forest - making this a great sunny day activity - and theres
surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the rare,
exotic and endangered species youll see are Indian elephants,
pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, camels, dwarf
caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of brightly-plumed
pheasants (our favourite). Theres also a petting zoo, snack
bar for when youre hungry and ice cream vendors so your kids
have something totally unnecessary to nag you about. Bus
134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy, H-3) and drops
you off at the entrance. Q Open 09:00 - 19:30. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Note that in September opening hours
may be shortened. Admission 18/10z.
Pisudski Mound (Kopiec Pisudkiego) Al. do Kopca
(Wolski Forest). Man-made earthwork burial mounds were
already an established Cracovian tradition by the 20th century
(see Krakus Mound, Kociuszko Mound), and talk of building one
in honour of Polands inter-war hero and leader Jzef Pisudski
was underway even before his death in 1935. By 1937 it was
complete, and though the Nazis had it slated for demolition and
the communists even got the tanks out to pull down the huge
granite cross that once stood at its peak, Pisudski Mound
still stands today as an enduring and sacred symbol of Polish
independence. About a 25 minute walk north from the Zoo on
the red trail, this is the highest point in Las Wolski; the panoramic
views from the top are excellent and on a clear day the Tatra
Mountains are visible to the south.
Camaldolese Monastery Al. Konarowa 1, tel. (+48)
12 429 76 10, www.kameduli.info. Those looking to get
well off the tourist trail might consider a spiritual journey to
Las Wolskis mysterious and discreetly secluded Camaldo-
lese Monastery (Klasztor Kameduw), otherwise known as
the Silver Mountain Hermitage. Here the Camaldolites part
of the Benedictine family of monastic orders have lived in
peace and obscurity since their founder Mikoaj Wolski (after
whom the entire forest is now named) arrived from Italy
and wangled the land from Sebastian Lubomirski in 1604.
Damaged by fire and rebuilt in 1814, this large, walled, white
limestone architectural complex is today one of the finest
representations of late-Baroque style in Europe.
The hermetic lives of the Camaldolites arouse a great amount
of curiosity and speculation from those beyond the wall due
to their secrecy and seclusion. Clad in hooded white robes
and bushy beards, the monks follow the severe self-imposed
principles Ora et labora (Pray and work) and Memento Mori
(Remember you must die), abstain from speaking unless abso-
lutely necessary and only encounter each other during certain
prayer times. Short verbal exchanges are allowed three times
a week, while contact with the world beyond the monastery is
only allowed five days a year. Between prayer and work, simple
vegetarian meals are eaten in the solitude of each monks small
hermitage, where one of the only aspects of dcor is the skull
of his predecessor. An extremely isolated, strict and devout
order, there are presently less than 60 Camaldolese monks in
the world, of which 9 live in Las Wolski.
While the compound is founded on isolationism, it is possible
for men to gain entrance to the monastery daily from 08:00 -
11:30 and 15:20 - 16:30. Women, on the other hand, are only
permitted 12 days a year: Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, May
3rd, Pentecost Sunday, Pentecost Monday, the Sunday after
June 19th, the 2nd and 4th Sunday of July, the 1st Sunday
of August, August 15th, September 8th and December 25th.
Although access to the grounds is limited, the main church
featuring two 50m towers, eight ornate Baroque chapels, an
impressive main altar and creepy underground crypts (crypts
accessible to men only) - and its immediate surroundings are
open at the specified times and well worth a look if youre
patient enough to get inside. To do so involves bravely pulling
an iron ring attached to a long chain and waiting an indeter-
minable amount of time for one of the monks to silently open
the large wooden doors of the main gate, before vanishing
again like a cloud of vapour. A truly spell-binding and spiritual
place, the monasterys legend grew when Italian football coach
Cesare Prandelli and his staff made a 21km pilgrimage here
from their Old Town hotel on foot, setting off at 03:00 in the
morning and arriving for morning mass, after qualifying for the
knockout phase of EURO 2012.
The sanctuary can be more easily reached by taking any
westbound bus except number 100 from the Salwator tram
roundabout to the bottom of Srebrna Gra (Silver Mountain);
its then a steep 200 metre walk uphill on the red trail to the
monastery. Even easier is taking bus 134 from the Cracovia
Stadium (ul. Kauy, H-3) to the Zoo and from there its about
a 20 minute walk south following the red trail (to the left if
facing the zoo entrance).
Pawel Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
Car access to Las Wolski is restricted, so even if you
have a vehicle its more sensible to take the bus. Bus
number 134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy,
H-3) near the Bonia and takes passengers directly to
the Zoo at the very centre of the forest. Here youll find a
map of all the trails in the area, the most popular of which
is the red trail which leads north to Pisudski Mound, and
south to the Camaldolese Monastery. Take a look at the
timetables at the bus stop to make sure you know what
time you need to catch your return into town; youll have
to come back to this spot to do so.
Getting to Las Wolski
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and
Roses Avenue.
106
NOWA HUTA
107
NOWA HUTA
Churches
Chur ch of St . Bar -
tholomew R-5, ul. Klasztor-
na 11, www.mogila.cystersi.
pl. Founded by Krakw bishop
Iwo Odrow who brought the
Cistercians to Mogia from Sile-
sia in 1222, the present struc-
ture of this outstanding wooden
church dates from 1466. As the
Church of St. Wenceslas across
the street was part of a monas-
tic complex, St. Batholomews was erected to accommodate
the Catholic layman, one of whom - master carpenter Maciej
Mczka - put his name and completion date on the door after
building this enduring wooden treasure. Exceptional for its three
aisles - a rarity in wooden church architecture - the 18th cen-
tury belfry and beautiful domed entrance gate have also been
preserved. Getting inside can sometimes be a challenge, but
its still at least worth taking a look at the exterior architecture.
Mogia is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams 10
and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a short walk
south. Q During the summer tour guides actually work here
on Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Though its
in Polish only, you can pick up some English language info and
have a look around.
Church of St. John the Baptist S-2, ul. Wakowicza,
tel. 12 642 15 84. Next door to Matejkos manor house,
this is one of two wooden churches in the area. Built between
1633 and 1648 in the village of Jaworniki in the mountains
on Polands eastern border with Ukraine, when the church
was threatened by demolition in the 1980s local authorities
surprisingly approved its transfer to Krzesawice as part of
a planned open-air folk architecture museum which never
came to be. A tower was added and the historic monument
took on new life as a place of worship, which continues today
with regular services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q
Open only during mass and by prior arrangement.
The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
www.mogila.cystersi.pl. Located in what remains of the
sleepy village of Mogia that Nowa Huta was plunked down
upon, the ancient Cistercian Monastery, with its two adjoining
churches, was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny
until Arka Pana Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977.
The vast and splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining
Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are
recognised as among the most important religious buildings
in Maopolska. During the Renaissance the monastery was
well known for its master painters and the huge interior of
Holy Cross Basilica as well as the monastery library feature
many fine works from the period. Most importantly, Holy Cross
Basilica also stores the famous Cross of Mogia - the source
of many miraculous legends. Said to have been discovered
when a blacksmiths son jumped into the Wisa River to save
what he thought to be a drowning man floating downstream,
the cross was brought to the monastery and quickly began
building a reputation for miracles before cementing them when
it was the only part of the churchs furnishings not destroyed
by the fire of 1447, despite being made of wood. Christs hair
and loincloth were burned however, and ever since that time he
has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real human hair.
Weird. The monastery is easily accessed from Plac Centralny
via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a
short walk south. Q Holy Cross Basilica open 06:00 - 20:00,
sightseeing between services only. On Sundays (when
services are most frequent) the best time to visit is from
15:00 - 16:00 when the gardens are also open.
The Lords Ark (Koci Arka Pana) N-1, ul.
Obrocw Krzya 1, www.arkapana.pl. Built between
1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house of worship was
designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance
from the communist authorities. The complete opposite of
what Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, The Lords Ark is a
remarkable building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in
Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to the locals
to mix cement with spades, and find the two million stones
needed for the churchs facade. The first corner stone was
laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtya, who would later as-
sume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the discovery of a WWII
ammunition dump delayed work, as some 5,000 mines and
shells had to be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th
1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs
Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped cruci fix rising from the
middle, the church houses an array of curious treasures,
including a stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican,
a tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile brought back
from the moon by the crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial
statue of Christ that shows him not on a cross, but about
to fly to the heavens. I f you think thats odd, check out the
statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured a hal f metre
sculpture made from ten kilograms of shrapnel removed
from Pol i sh sol di ers wounded at the Battl e of Monte
Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church became a focal point
during anti-communist protests, not least for the shelter it
afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the
period of Martial Law was dangerous business, as proven
by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wosik opposite
the church. Wosik was shot in the chest by security ser-
vices, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the
people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners.
The monument commemorating the site of his death was
erected in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during
this period. As recently as September 2012, Krakw City
Council awarded Arka Pana the Cracoviae Merenti silver
medallion for its signi ficance to the citys history. Q Open
08:30 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Mate-
jki) S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74.
Located in Krzesawice - a charming village hidden just
one street behind Nowa Hutas arti ficial lake, here youll
find the small manor house with a wood shingle roof once
used as a workshop by Polands greatest 19th century
painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this
is where the artist went to escape the crude haste of li fe
in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an eminent
Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Polands
constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension
which would house his workshop. Inside guests will see
Matej kos famous Gall ery of Polish Ki ngs as well as
many illustrations, everyday items and period furniture.
Next door is the wooden Church of St. John the Baptist
- also worth seeing. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Mon, Sun. Visits for groups of over
10 available by prior arrangement. Call (+48) 12 656 50
51. Admission 7/4z.
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2,
os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97
75, www.mhk.pl. This small museum features a series
of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the
district. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/4z,
family ticket 10z. Wed free.
Jakub Haun, Wikipedia,CC
BY-SA 3.0
of the only places to eat in NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one
of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries
on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that
hasnt been updated in well over 30 years. Stop in Saturday
evening to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you wont be able to leave
before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.
Wandas Mound (Kopiec
Wandy) T- 4, Near intersec-
tion of ul. Ujastek Mogilski
and ul. Bardosa. Though con-
struction of Nowa Huta began in
1949, Kopiec Wandy is indisput-
able evidence that the history of
the area goes back much further.
I n fact, the village of Mogi a,
which Kopiec Wandy is near the
historical centre of, has been
inhabited since 5000 BC without
interruption, whil e archaeol o-
gists date the settlement of Krakws Old Town much later
in the 8th century. Together with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgrze
(K-5) - Krakws other prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy
plays a role in one of Polands greatest archeaological mys-
teries as the mounds date of construction, builders and
function all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading
theories suggest that both mounds were erected sometime
between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or
the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps
most likely is that they were created as burial mounds which
later became cult sites. Though seemingly random within the
layout of modern Krakw, the location of the two mounds can
hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec
Wandy on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be
seen setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station Kopiec
Wandy), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m
with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monu-
ment from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the
Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect
and geographical trespasses, Wandas Mound today lies
just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir
steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen
through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improve-
ment, where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgrze can be seen in
the distance, though Wandas Mound unfortunately doesnt
offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Krakws other
mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of
the development which is apparently planned, not to men-
tion some proper modern archaeological studies; behind
the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one
of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but,
honestly, it just gives us the creeps.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac
Centralny i Aleja R) O-4. The centre of Nowa Hutas
architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the districts primary
landmark and one of social realisms highest architectural
achievements in PL, despite never being completed. The
two main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and
a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk
in between; though the designs were in place, none saw
development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them -
Roses Avenue (Aleja R, O-3) - was never fully realised, and
terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example
of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, youll find several curiosities worth peeping into.
Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00.
Closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this
amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original
50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and
a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates.
The character of this place hasnt changed a bit and as such
its a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesawiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the street
to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been preserved
in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a true taste of the
district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it. Nowa Huta
is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but weve never seen
anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif
interior of this bar mleczny. If you think that cant be topped,
take a trip to the other end of the block to see the hideously
outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what
is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Krakw. He
made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks
were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was
unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure was moved to the Lenin
Museum soon after, and thereafter mysteriously disappeared.
In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al.
R, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenins
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta. In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesnt end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Hutas former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
Memories of Lenin
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising
in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Send-
zimir Steelworks. Experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one
of the worlds only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q Communism
Tour 129z per person.
Tours
108
WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out
of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits)
leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes.
Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 5.30z,
or take bus 304 from the Dworzec Gwny Zachd
stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or
one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses leaving from the
parking area near there at the corner of ul. Ogrodowa
and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3.50z, journey time 20-30mins.
Getting to Wieliczka
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist
cities in Eastern Europe, and as youve likely heard, one of
its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in
Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to the southeast.
An astounding 1.2 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine
each year (thats one out of every seven or eight visitors
to Krakw), and its hardly a recent phenomenonpeople
have been visiting the salt mine for centuries with notable
guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von
Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John
Paul II and former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first
official tourist trail opened underground here way back in
the mid-19th century. But its not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in a
recent survey (see Local Likes & Dislikes), Cracovians voted
Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about
Krakw; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15
kilometres away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site,
but it has the distinction of having been included (along with
Krakws Old Town) on UNESCOs first-ever World Heritage
List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heri-
tage site actually meant something). Additional accolades
aside, this unique industrial heritage site has been a popular
destination for centuries and if youre visiting Krakw, you
should also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka,
which in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a
health resort, castle and museum.
History
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding area
apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfor-
tunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone,
but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted
hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements.
Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was
an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its
ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of
wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money;
Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said
to be worth their salt and the word salary comes from the
Latin word salarium used to describe their wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in the
regions surrounding Krakw can be traced back to the middle
Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of underground
rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid development
of the area. Underground extraction began in nearby Bochnia
in 1252 and was established on an industrial scale in Wieliczka
by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned municipal rights
and by the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks was
established to manage both mines, with its headquarters in the
Wieliczka castle complex. One of the first companies in Europe,
the Cracow Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown
for the next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the
18th century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when
it employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000
tonnes and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the revenue
of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was
further increased by mechanising the mining works with
steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route
was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation
and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to
destabilise the mines condition and the market value of salt
no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction
of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the
significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive
gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts
and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been
drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated
with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of
327m underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and
innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
110
WIELICZKA
What to See
Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A visit to the
salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy your ticket
from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display
for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your
ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist
Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Under-
ground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit.
In between theres an opportunity to take a break, use the
restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if thats
your preference). However, be aware that the tour does
not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it
does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you
to and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz
Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miners lingo effectively means God be with you and
substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs
(dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the first level 64m
underground. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first
three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5kms covered during
the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of
this underground realm. While wandering the timber-re-enforced
tunnels youll gain insight from your guide into the history of
the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives
of the men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive blocks
of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour
visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost
everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled
floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang
down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m
St. Kingas Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its
amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carv-
ings from the New Testament done by miners that display
an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing
a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall
high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at the
underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you
should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A)
or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option
B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide
that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask
them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the
restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the queue
for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you
back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the
right for those that want to continue on to the Underground
Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your origi-
nal guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which
comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed
full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your
guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and
informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of
these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th
century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of
sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you
back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back
to where you started. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30. Admission
75/60z. Taking photos is an additional 10z. In addition to
the popular Tourist Route described above, several other
routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route,
a route for children, and a new interactive Miners Route
in which tourists leave from the Regis mine in work clothes
accompanied by an English-speaking guide, are assigned a
role by the foreman and experience the daily routines, rituals
and secrets of working underground. Miners Route open
10:00 - 18:00. Admission 76/64z..
The Saltworks Castle & Museum (Muzeum up
Krakowskich Wieliczka) ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 58 49, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl.
From the Daniowicza Shaft its a short, rather picturesque
walk to the Saltworks Castle, which served as the admin-
istrative seat of the Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally
built between the 13th and 16th centuries, the castle was
demolished during World War II before being beauti fully
reconstructed in 1984. The castle courtyard features the
foundations of the original oval-shaped defensive walls and
a 14th century tower that once housed a prison and shooting
gallery. The main building holds a museum documenting the
history of Wieliczka and the castle itself from its early begin-
nings to modern times, local archaeological findings, a model
of 19th century Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars from all
over the world, and other temporary exhibits. With little to
no information in English, the museum is hardly required
visiting but interesting enough to warrant the negligible entry
fee if you have time. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 4/3z, family ticket 10 z. Guided tours in English
35z per person; must be booked at least 7 days in advance.
Underground Health Resort (Uzdrowisko Kopal-
nia Soli) Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka, tel. (+48)
12 278 73 68, www.kopalnia.pl/uzdrowisko. With the
market value of table salt no longer being what it was in
medieval times, today the salt mine is most valuable for
its health benefits (and tourist dollars, of course). Given its
perfect isolation from external factors, the specific micro-
climate of the subterranean saline chambers is completely
bacteria- and allergen-free and rich in healthy micro-elements
such as sodium chloride, magnesium and chloride. Such an
environment is brilliant for anyone suffering from asthma,
bronchitis, lung inflammation, allergies or recurrent nose, si-
nus or throat conditions. As such, the salt mine also operates
as a health resort offering a variety of single and multiple day
health treatments in the Jezioro Wessel (Wessel Lake) and
Stajnia Gr Wschodnich (Stable of East Mining Hills) saline
chambers located 135m underground. Here individuals and
groups can participate in a number of organised breathing
exercises and walks, as well as music therapy (reservations
required). The health resort also offers innovative methods
for the treatment of serious respiratory ailments and a broad
range of modern medical services with professional medical
staff and equipment. More info can be found on their website.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Prices vary by season, treatment and length of stay.
Check the website for specific quotes.
LOCAL TOURS EXPERT
TYNIEC
KRAKW
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
ZAKOPANE
THERMAL POOLS WARSAW
AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU
AIRPORT TRANSFERS
NOWA HUTA
www.discovercracow.eu
+48 12 346 38 99
113
AUSCHWITZ
112
AUSCHWITZ
childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of prisoners with
collections of photographs, artists drawings and tools used for
hard labour while the next set of barracks recreates the living
conditions endured by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth
spread out on the floor, and rows of communal latrines, one
decorated with a poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death -
against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has
been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here
that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-breaking visit
in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11
the Nazis conducted their first experiments with poison gas in
1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian
Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to
save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny
standing cells measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prison-
ers were held for indefinite amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering of
individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory of the
Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with the grue-
some gas chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were
capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to
hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare accord-
ingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes
around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast. After
completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break
before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay
with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would
be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some
limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second
camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back
to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station
1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change
available), a fast food bar and restaurant; there are also rest-
room facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz
without a guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up the
official guidebook (5z), whose map of the camp is crucial to
avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at
any of the numerous bookshops at both sites. Q Auschwitz I
open 08:00 - 20:00. From September open 08:00 - 19:00.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau open 08:00 - 20:30. From Sep-
tember open 08:00 - 19:30. Last entrance 1.5 hours
before closing. An individual ticket for a foreign language
guided tour of both camps costs 40/30z. Tours for
groups up to 10 people, 250z. For larger groups 300z.
The film costs 4.50/3.50z (included in the price of a
group tour). Headphones cost 5z per person (included
in the price of a group tour). Official guidebook 5z..
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim, tel.
(+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Your tour of
Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infa-
mous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free) entrance
gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the
camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was
stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern
Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate,
the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the
camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work,
before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview
of the creation and reality behind the worlds most notorious
concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original
architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B
used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most
disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined
for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the
scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived prison-
ers were stripped of their personal property, some of which
is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial limbs,
glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most affectingly,
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con-
ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is
visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope
Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009
thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign from
above the main entrance gate, cutting it into pieces and
abandoning it in the woods in northern PL; the sign has
been permanently replaced by a replica.
A Brief History
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horri fic acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poi gnancy and professionalism that is so profound, i t
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itsel f.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is pre-
sented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared
from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer
relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you
think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by
visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go
to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be
understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern,
Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical
concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe
everyone should visit.
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and con-
fusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows
with di fferent designations, and excessive signage that
contradicts itself. This can be avoided by going as part of an
organised group tour, organised by a local tour company. If
you are visiting independently however, or in a small group,
find the queue for the desk marked Individual Guests. Dur-
ing peak tourist season the museum makes it obligatory to
buy a ticket and become part of a guided tour unless you
get there before 10:00 (difficult to do from Krakw) or after
15:00; in the off season (November 1st - March 31st) it
is also possible to explore the museum for free without a
guide regardless of the time. Be that as it may, we strongly
recommend the guided tour, which is excellent, profound and
professional; afterwards youll find it hard to imagine getting
as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on
your own. Tours in English depart most frequently, and there
are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian,
Polish and Spanish. Tour departure times change frequently;
exact times can be seen online at auschwitz.org.pl and it
would be wise to look them up before visiting. The museum
makes a big effort to provide the tour in the native language
of each guest, and tours in languages other than those just
mentioned can be easily arranged if done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your experi-
ence typically begins with a harrowing 20 minute film of
narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they
arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not
recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed year-
round however, in which case your tour of the camp begins
straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone
which you hear through your headphones.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Krakw are faced with asking themselves whether
or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a dif-
ficult question. There are few who would say they actually
want to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do
so for their own reasons. For those of us who dont feel so
compelled, its easy to give reasons for not going: not having
enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want
to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough
to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfort-
able about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional
resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists.
Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explana-
tions for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until
youve actually visited the site; youll be hard-pressed to find
anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways to
get to Owicim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing
on for a tour organised by a multitude of Krakw-based
tour companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours)
to ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transpor-
tation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational
help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion
upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1);
most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not
all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up
at the Owicim bus station which is at the other end
of town. The journey takes 1hr 40mins and costs 14z.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Krakw
and Owicim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins - 1hr
55mins and a cost of about 16z; note, however, that
early trains to Owicim can be eerily crowded, particu-
larly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich
22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-
29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3z) from the
nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle visitors
between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15z. Waiting
minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour can take you back to
Krakw from either camp - a group of eight would pay
about 25-35z/person.
Getting to Auschwitz
115
114
AUSCHWITZ
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Having completed the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however its here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope
and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau
contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that
covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Confer-
ence on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen
rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European
Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all
the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-buil t train tracks leading directl y into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into
gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived
in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease
and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the
Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb
the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the
complexs size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand
side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the
penal colony and also the womens camp. At the far end
of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria,
as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a
comparabl y brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are
left to wander and reflect on their own before catching
the return bus to Auschwitz I.
Under occupation efforts were made to turn the town into
a model Nazi settlement with plans for wide green spaces
and modern estates. Aside from normal German settlers
the town saw 7,000 SS serve here and they enjoyed a good
community life complete with coffee house, swimming
pool, kindergarten and a profusion of cultural events; at
one stage the Dresden State Theatre performed here. The
SS pub was housed in a building across from Owicim
train station, and its top floor was turned into a flat to
serve Himmler during his visits.
After the war, however, the hunt was on to find the people
who perpetrated the Holocaust. Camp Commandant Ru-
dolf Hoss was captured in 1946, while posing as a farm
hand. Sentenced to death he was hanged next to the gas
chamber of Auschwitz I on April 16, 1947. Others who faced
the hangmans noose included the head of the womens
camp, Maria Mandel, as well as her 22 year old sidekick
Irma Grese, aka The Beautiful Beast. Adolf Eichmann was
the mastermind behind mass Jewish deportations in the
Eastern territories. Having fled to Argentina after the war
he was kidnapped by Mossad agents, before facing the
trial of the century in Israel in which he was sentenced to
hang. Josef Mengele, The Angel of Death, served as the
camp doctor at Auschwitz and supervised selections for
the gas chambers as well as brutal medical experiments
on children. He evaded justice and died in a swimming
accident in Brazil in the 1970s.
The Nazi Perpetrators
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei
Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum ydowskie)
Pl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
70 02, www.ajcf.org. This centre located 3km from
the Auschwitz museum maintains the towns restored
synagogue, shows a film with testimonies of Holocaust
survivors and offers a specially tailored programme for
those who call ahead. It also features a permanent exhibi-
tion on Jewish life in the town of Owicim before World
War II. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6z.
Jewish Centre
TYSKIE
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Ksice) ul.
Mikoowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy, tel.
(+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl. The Tyskie
Browary Ksice, in the town of Tychy (German Tichau) some
10km south of Katowice has been brewing beer continuously
for nearly 400 years. And because of its Silesian location it has
witnessed a number of historic events over the years with its
own history reflecting that of the region. The originally German-
owned brewery now produces the famous Tyskie Gronie,
Polands best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary Ksices (or
just Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings also includes
a superb little museum which is open to the public for tours.
Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly and informative,
English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through
the entire brewing process. Starting in the immaculately
preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece of original decorative
tiles and old copper vats installed during WWI that have had
modern brewing equipment cleverly put inside them, the tour
follows the brewing process from start to finish and also offers
a fascinating insight into the history of the factory. Highlights
include the so-called Bachelors Quarters and the saucy tales
that go with them, a glimpse of the brewerys own railway sta-
tion and, across the road, a look inside the fabulously fragrant
bottling plant. Now producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of
booze annually (or to put it another way, if you put all that
beer into half litre bottles and laid them end to end youd
have a line of beer 80,000km long), the rise of the brewery
is recorded inside the superb Brewery Museum, complete
with interactive displays in English and housed inside a red
brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902. Tours must be booked
in advance, and yes, theres a tasting session at the end.
The tours are conducted in Polish, English, German, Spanish,
French, Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dialect
(if you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like). The
museum building also houses the local City Museum, which
is well worth having a look inside if youve got the time, while
the town itself is also worth exploring to properly cap your trip
to Tychy. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance
2,5 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should
call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 12/6z.
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Krakw by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station.
Getting There
117
TARNW
116
TARNW
By Car
Tarnw is cl ose to a number of maj or road routes in all
directions and is worth consi dering as a place to stop
of f for a few hours or even for the ni ght i f youre on a
l ong j ourney. Onl y 80km from Krakw, thanks to the
new (free!) A4 hi ghway connecting the two ci ti es, i ts an
easy, hassl e-free dri ve to Tarnw that shoul d take l ess
than an hour. Near the centre the most convenient place
to park is ul. Bernardyska (E-4), j ust southeast of the
market square; from Pl. Sobieskiego turn onto ul. Targowa
(D-4) and then make your next l eft on Bernardyska
(D-5). Parking must be pai d Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00, Sat
08:00-13:00 (Sun free), wi th some compli cated math
di ctating the pri ce depending how l ong you will be there
( for exampl e: 1z/30mi ns, 2. 50z/1hr, 5.10z/2hrs,
8z/3hrs, after whi ch i ts an addi tional 2.50z for every
hour over 3, or 17z for the whol e day). Buy a ti cket from
the kiosk, cross of f the proper time and from there the
market square and tourist info of fi ce are j ust one bl ock
to your north.
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 30 or so trains every day from
Krakw, with a journey time of between 90 and 120 minutes
depending on whether you take a local or express train.
Main Train Station A- 6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48)
22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Following an extensive renovation, Tar-
nows train station reopened in November 2010, exactly
one hundred years after its original opening in November
1910. While fully modernised to include all the modern
passenger services youd expect (24-hour ticket window,
kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant), the original
character of the place has been retained, including Ed-
mund Cieczkiewiczs paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny
mountains which were funded by the early train owners
over a century ago. Walking to the centre only takes about
10mins up ul. Krakowska, while a taxi from outside the
station will cost about 7-10z.
Hotels
Bristol C- 4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47
74 77, www.hotelbristol.com.pl. Enj oy a sumptuous
atmosphere of sl i ghtl y fl amboyant grandeur i nsi de
Tarnws most excl usi ve hotel . Bri stols i mmacul ate
rooms come wi th mini bars, cabl e tel evision, spacious
beds and a choi ce of en sui te faci l i ti es wi th ei ther a
shower or bath. Extras include pl enty of el egant chande-
liers, Doric columns that dont actuall y support anything,
a solarium, gym and an outrageousl y pink honeymoon
apar tment featuri ng a l arge Jacuzzi . Q17 rooms (4
singl es, 5 doubl es, 2 tripl es, 4 sui tes, 2 apartments).
PTHAFGKW hhhh
U Jana D- 4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64,
www.hotel uj ana.pl . An excel l ent choi ce, wi th 12
apartments boasti ng vi ews of the market square, all
at a great value wi th pri ces varying based on size and
standard. Where they get all these oil paintings is be-
yond comprehension, but theres a barrage of them on
the ground fl oor and youll find some in your quarters as
well. Sui tes are stylised qui te tastefull y to represent the
Renaissance history of the buil ding, wi th large beds in
handsome frames, wooden fl oors and modern facili ti es
including satelli te tel evision and wi fi. I ts an unbeatabl e
l ocation, the downstairs restaurant is more reliabl e than
many in the area as well, and now theres a new billiards
room to keep you busy. Q12 rooms (12 apartments).
THA6GKW
Eat & Drink
Basteja D- 4, ul. Kapitulna 8, tel. (+48) 14 656 42
02, www.pubbasteja.pl. Fi ndi ng Bastej a comes as
a reli ef, as i t vali dates the hope that there must be at
l east one cool cafe/bar hi dden somewhere in this ci ty.
Hi dden indeed i t is - in a passageway between ul. Ka-
pi tulna and ul. Waowa - and i t owes a l ot to i ts l ocation
whi ch comprises part of Tarnws anci ent ci ty walls. On
one si de youll find an ethereal red interior wi th tasteful
li ghting and black and whi te photography of Ol d Tarnw
on the walls, whil e across the passage you can t miss
the magni fi cent summer beer garden insi de the ruins of
the bastion i t takes i ts name from. Ei ther way, this is one
of the most lai d-back l ocal es around and youre likel y to
l eave wi th i t near the top of your list of trip hi ghli ghts.
Q Open 15:00 - 23:00. From September open 10:00 -
23:00. GBW
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the
Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sizes
by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the
16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler
plays Tarnws hejna - a short traditional melody -
every day at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Craco-
vian cousin, the Old Town is still interesting enough to
warrant a good investigation, and includes a fairly well
preserved Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining
defensive tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hug-
ging its northern edge and featuring several interesting
buildings as well as a number of monuments. In the
spring and summer the Rynek comes to li fe with tables
and chairs from the multitude of cafes and bars (and
surprisingly few restaurants) lining it and has a warm
and welcoming appeal.
Rynek & The Old Town
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw near the crossroads of
two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable
city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size, Tarnw
is absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many of the
same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing
crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd men-
tality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the
size of Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers tourists the
comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural
intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a
well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious
cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many
pedestrian avenues - in Tarnw visitors will discover several
unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic
cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as
dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn.
Those with a special interest in Jewish history should be extra
motivated to visit Tarnw due to its deep Jewish heritage,
many traces of which are still in evidence today in the citys
evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While
the towns nightlife may not have the sizzle of Krakw, there
are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants, the best of
which we list here, where youll find it easy to meet friendly
local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present
a good impression to foreigners. All told its enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as in addition
to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat from Krakw,
Tarnw also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth
of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at
Dbno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia.
Youll find more information on Tarnw and all the surround-
ing area has to offer on our website, but make sure you also
pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information office
when you arrive for more insights and to pick up a copy of
our special Tarnw mini-guide.
Getting to Tarnw
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well
as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnw is easily reached by
road. A good network of train and bus services running in
and out of the city centre also link Tarnw with many major
destinations throughout Poland. The nearest airport is
Krakw Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with
the first leaving as early as 06:35 and the last bus back to
Krakw departing at 21:30. PKS schedules arent famous
for their long-term consistency however, so you may want
to check ahead. Minibuses also make the trip, departing
from across from the bus station, so dont overlook that
option if you need it.
Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1. Offering almost
nothing in the way of services or facilities aside from a currency
exchange (kantor), toilets downstairs, and a few kiosks selling
mobile top-up vouchers and snacks. Dont be duped by the
ticket windows, they only sell monthly passes and local fares,
which goes a long way towards explaining why everyone just
buys their tickets from the driver. There are no ATMs, so if you
need cash youll have to go to the train station next door. To
get into town, find taxis parked outside, which will take you to
the Rynek for 7-10z. Bus N9 can be caught on ul. Krakowska
(buy a 15min ticket for 2.20z from one of the nearby kiosks),
and heads east along the same street before peeling right and
skirting around the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk into
the centre takes about 10 minutes. Q Open 06:00 - 22:00.
First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnw
was granted city rights by King Wadysaw okietek in
1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of the
King on ul. Waowa before the stairs leading up to Plac
Katedralny. It was at this time that the medieval layout
the city retains to this day was created, with the market
square and Town Hall at its centre.
A privately owned city until 1787, Tarnws greatest
period of growth came under the illustrious, avant-garde
nobleman Jan Tarnowski during the 16th century when
the Old Town was largely reconstructed in the manner
that today earns it the accolade of being Polands Pearl
of the Renaissance. When the Tarnowski clan expired
without an heir in 1567, the city had already been incor-
porated into the Austrian-Hungarian Empire during the
era of Polish partitions. Tarnws citizens were quick to
join the Polish legions when WWI broke out and the region
saw many battles between the Russian and Austro-
Hungarian armies, resulting in a trail of WWI memorial
sites and cemeteries in the citys vicinity.
In October 1918 Tarnw gained notoriety when it became
the first Polish city to reclaim independence after 146
years of occupation, and again on August 28th, 1939
when German terrorists detonated an explosive in the
citys train station killing 20 people, injuring 32, and leading
some historians to claim that WWII officially started here in
Tarnw. The bombs would start falling from the sky six days
later and by September 7th the Nazis had captured the city.
The first Jews settled in Tarnw in the mid-15th century
and by 1939 their numbers had reached 25,000 - nearly
half the citys total population. On June 14th 1940, 728
Tarnw residents (mostly Poles, in fact) became the
first victims of Auschwitz; of 40,000 Jews crammed into
Tarnws ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and the
rest deported to the Belze death camp. Today Tarnws
Jewish heritage remains through several historical monu-
ments and sites in and around the former ghetto, though
no active Jewish community has survived.
Tarnw was a stronghold of resistance during Nazi oc-
cupation, before eventual liberation into the communist
regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed rapidly
in the postwar period as the monstrous soviet-era resi-
dential blocks in the north-east part of the city became
home to over one-third of its 100,000 population in the
mid-70s. The rise in the prices of meat in July 1980 in-
spired a series of strikes in Tarnw predating the Gdansk
shipyard strikes that would eventually lead to the com-
munist regimes collapse by over a month. Since Polands
ascension to the EU in 2004, Tarnw has enjoyed the
revitalisation of its Old Town and is gaining an increasing
reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination.
History in Brief
Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
118
TARNW
Cafe Tramwaj (Tram Cafe) D-4, Pl. Sobieskiego 2,
tel. (+48) 503 37 23 29. Its been over 70 years since
streetcars graced the streets of Tarnw, but this antique
tram parked on Plac Sobieskiego takes tourists and locals
back in time to Tarnws golden era, when electrified public
transport was a symbol of the citys stature. Capturing the
spirit of the old days (the good ones, mind you) this authentic
wood-trimmed and furnished tram car full of sepia postcards
and inter-war souvenirs is the perfect place to meet for
coffee, a slice of cake and a conversation. Its also a free
wifi hotspot, which is hardly taken for granted in this town. If
you can score one of the limited number of tables, youll be
happy you did. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. P6GSW
Soprano C-5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621
09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when wed given
up on having a nice meal out in Tarnw, Soprano saves our
appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional
Italian cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor
garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch
the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this one of your meals
out when in town. The soups are delicious and come with
fresh olive bread, while our lamb shank with red currant sauce
(42z) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money you
can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still a heck of a
bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (18-42z). PTAUGBSW
Sightseeing
Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedral-
ny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01,
www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.
org.pl. Dating from the 14th
century wi th maj or addi tions
and rebuil ds in the 15th and
19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic
Cathedral of the Nativity of the
Virgin Mary, just northwest of
the Rynek and one of the old-
est brick buildings in the city,
must rate as one of the most
impressive parish churches in
Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive
several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostro-
gski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and the
impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference when
getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling back streets.
Some nice recent additions are also evident, including the
fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side
of the building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30.
No visiting during mass please.
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul II,
the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside
the soul of man, and Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum,
established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just
that. An astonishing collection of religious art from the
15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful
ensemble of 16th-century houses, the museums most pre-
cious artefact is the original alter from St. Leonards church
in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation
reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include
some truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience. Q Open
10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographi c Museum
(Muzeum Etnograficzne)
C- 5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel.
(+48) 14 622 06 25, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. As well as
highlighting local ethnographic
traditions, this better than aver-
age collection includes a large
cel ebrati on of Roma (Gypsy)
cul ture, whi ch is all egedl y the
only such collection in Europe. A
truly fascinating, if slightly dated,
exhibition tracing Roma culture in
Poland from its beginnings in the 15th century to their fate
at the hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that
make up the exhibition include some excellent maps, mod-
els, costumes and photographs, all of which are best seen
with the aid of a small and very good booklet, The Gypsies,
written by the museums curator Adam Bartosz and avail-
able in English for just 3z. There are still about 350 Roma
living in Tarnw, and their culture is still very much alive. In
the museums back garden youll find several traditionally
painted gypsy caravans. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00; Tue, Thu
09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 8/5z. Sun free.
Town Hall Museum (Ratusz) D-4, Rynek 1, tel. (+48)
14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Worth a visit for a
peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary collection
over two floors includes glass, porcelain and silver, and the
most extensive collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits
in the country. Two new permanent exhibits have also been
added: the Hunters Armoury and the Sarmatian Armoury.
Sarmatism, if youre wondering, was a beguiling infusion of
lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish
nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken
and rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from a
loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism
evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on
pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed
horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for
lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The
Town Hall Tower can also be ascended if arranged ahead of
time, and offers panoramic views for an extra 10z. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z, family ticket 15z. Sun free.
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. One of
the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first
port of call on arrival. Here youll find a wide range of free
information on Tarnw and the surrounding region, free
internet (browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle rental
and theres even accommodation available upstairs. If
youre interested in a gadget-led tour, there are nine dif-
ferent mp3 audio tours of the main sights for hire, in ad-
dition to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour. The friendly,
knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff,
can give you a better idea of what that is, plus whatever
information or advice you cant find in this guide, so dont
be shy. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Tourist Information
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121
LEISURE
120
LEISURE
green 9/18 and the course is popular with both beginners
and experienced golfers. Includes indoor driving ranges, and
an indoor simulator open when the outdoor course is closed
for the season. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
AeroPlatform (Balon Widokowy) B-7, Bulwar
Woyski, tel. (+48) 511 80 22 02, www.hiflyer.pl. If you
find yourself across from Wawel on the opposite banks of the
Vistula River and fancy a slightly more adrenaline-pumping
way to a panoramic view, take a scenic ride in this massive
balloon. Rising to a height of up to 150 meters, youll have
about fifteen minutes to snap photos and overcome your
acrophobia. Possibly in a move to appease some of the critics
who consider it an eyesore, the balloon has I love Poland and
I love Krakow written on opposite sides of it in enormous
Polish writing. Come well before dusk, bring your student card if
youve got one and youll be hard-pressed to find a better view
of Krakow. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Note that the balloon
may not be able to fly in bad weather. Call in advance if
there is any doubt. Admission: Mon-Fri 38/20z, students
with proper ID 25z, family ticket 90z. Sat-Sun 45/25z, family
ticket 100z (no student discounts on weekends).
Botanical Garden J-2, ul. Kopernika 27, tel. (+48)
12 663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Covering almost
10 hectares, Polands oldest botanical gardens date from
1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing daytime escape from the
city. Extensive flora-filled paths wind between fountains, herb
and rose gardens, lillypadded ponds, and a 250-year-old oak
tree - the last remnant of primeval forests which once covered
the entire region. A humid greenhouse hides all manner of
exotic flora, including a macabre collection of carnivorous
plants, while a series of outdoor classical music concerts
takes place in the warmer months. A great place for roman-
tic rendezvous or finding some peace and quiet. Q Open
09:00 - 19:00. Greenhouses open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri.
Admission 6/3z. 12z family ticket available on weekends.
Krakw Beach (Plaa Krakw) I-4, ul. Ludwinowska
2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.com.pl.
Featuring 10,000 metres of sand spread out across a stretch
of the riverbank on the Dbniki side between Grunwaldzki
Bridge (B-7) and the building formerly known as the Forum
Hotel (I-4), Krakow Plaa (beach) has become party central
when the sun is out. Terri fic views of Wawel Castle form
the backdrop to a multi-faceted venue which offers said
beach where you can play beach football and volleyball, a
25 by 8 metre swimming pool hollowed into the hull of a
boat docked just offshore and a large childrens playground.
Throughout the day pick up a cocktail or iced coffee from
the attached open-air cafe-bar or a meal at the surprisingly
good restaurant, Plaa Krakw (see Restaurants). After the
While drinking in cafes and
beer gardens i s probabl y
the number one local leisure
activity, our Leisure section is
geared more for those looking
for outdoor acti vi ti es on a
beautiful day, or how to stay
active on an ugly one. Gener-
ally, Cracovians are spoiled
with recreation opportunities,
if only for the fact that the Old
Town is a joy to stroll around
when the sun is out and features several unique green
spaces, particularly the Planty and Bonia (see Outdoor
Attractions), the latter of which is home to an ice rink in
winter. Other highlights include Las Wolski (Wolski Forest),
which is home to Kociuszko and Pisudski Mounds, as
well as the Zoo, and provides plenty of hiking opportunities.
Cracovians also love getting out of town, whether it be short
day-outings to Tyniec and Ojcw (both of which you can
expect to be packed on sunny weekends), or mountains
excursions to the Beskidy and Tatra ranges to the south.
Zakopane is an especially popular destination for skiing in
winter and hiking in the summer. Use the listings below to
keep active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Krakowski Park Linowy ul. Widakowa (Pychowice),
tel. (+48) 514 25 66 47, www.krakowskiparklinowy.
pl. Give yourself a new high navigating the maze of rope
bridges, nets and ziplines of this exciting ropes park just off
the Wisa bike trail midway between Wawel and Tyniec Abbey
( just beyond F-5 on the IYP map). 200 metres in total, with a
height ranging from 5-9m, the course is of varying difficulty
but a thrilling and safe challenge for everyone thanks to
helmets and harnesses. Walking the entire course takes
between 45 minutes and an hour. They also offer a shorter
and easier route for children over 1.4m in height. For more
info visit their website which has an English option. Q Open
12:00 - 19:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. From September open
15:00 - 19:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 30z for adults. 25z
for children under 16. 50z for personal accompaniment by
an instructor. 15z for the childrens route.
Laser Park I-4, ul. Zabocie 20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01
30, www.laserpark.pl. Run amuck in the industrial waste-
land around Schindlers Factory known as Zabocie dodging
laser beams and zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a
computer system to register hits from the virtual bullets in
a safe, simulated gunfight within this highly unique setting.
Prices are complex and as follows: Mon-Thu 25/20z for
30mins, 40/35z for 60mins; Fri-Sun 35z for 30mins, 55z
for 60mins. Groups (14 players minimum) Mon-Thu 350z,
Fri-Sun 400z. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
Boat Rental & River Cruises
Aqua Fun B-6, Bulwar Czerwieski Marina (near Grun-
waldzki Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.rejsy.
krakow.pl. Regular river cruises between Bielany-Zwierzyniec
and Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 20/15z; 1hr,
25/20z) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper deck
(1hr, 25/20z). Both gondola and boat rides run from 10:00 to
20:00 every half hour, however rides dont leave until a suffi-
cient number of people are on-board. All are speaker-equipped
with an audio tour and can be rented privately. Night cruises
and private trips with live folk or klezmer music can also be
arranged in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Water Equipment H-3, SKS Nadwilaska Marina
near ul. Kociuszki 16, tel. (+48) 606 22 55 55, www.
zeglugawkrakowie.pl. Water equipment rental for a variety
of sports and persuasions, including a 12-person catamaran
and 4-person motorboats. Canoe and kayak rental (20z/hr),
as well as 4-person pedalos (30z/hr). Kayaking tours also
organised. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Golf
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Pacztowice
328, tel. (+48) 12 258 60 00, www.krakow-valley.com.
With a club house, driving, chipping and putting ranges, this
magnificent 160ha 18 hole golf course 25km west of Krakw,
is one of the largest and best in Central Europe. Reserve a
tee-time on weekends when the fairway is busy. To reach them
youll either need a car or take a train from Krakw to Krzeszo-
wice ( journey takes about 40 minutes) and then a private bus
to Pacztowice (7 minutes). Q Open from 09:00 till dusk.
Royal Krakw Golf & Country Club Ochmanw 124,
Pode, tel. (+48) 12 281 91 70, www.krakowgolf.
pl. A nine hole golf course located close to the Royal Jagiel-
lonian Hunting Grounds (Puszcza Niepoomicka) 18km east
of Krakw. A clubhouse and restaurant overlook the double
If youre up before happy hour and feel like doing some-
thing healthy for your body for a change, you might
consider renting a bike. While Krakw isnt exactly a
great cycling city, the city has been doing an admirable
job of improving the urban landscape with the addition
of more and more bike paths. However, the best place
to ride a bike remains the Wisa riverbank. A scenic,
relatively easy trip for the fit leads from Wawel into the
hills of Wolski Forest (Las Wolski). From the castle fol-
low the river southwest until the end of the bicycle path
at the Norbertine Monastery; make a left at the main
road and turn right up steep ul. w. Bronisawy (G-3).
The lane continues upwards past Salwator Cemetery;
turn sharply right at the crossroads at the end to visit
the Kociuszko Mound (F-3). From the crossroads, the
path continues into Las Wolski where youll find its three
main attractions: the Zoo, Pisudski Mound, and the
Camaldolese Monastery.
Alternatively, cross over Dbnicki Bridge (A-5) and follow
the river in the same direction from the other side and
youve got a lovely, flat ride of about 10km to popular
Tyniec Abbey. The ride takes about an hour each way.
Cool Tour Company C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48)
12 430 20 34, www.cooltourcompany.com. The big-
gest bike rental in Krakw offers you a range of options,
including road bikes and beach cruisers, bikes for kids
and even olde school penny farthing or modern Dutch
Stepper bikes: 10z/hr, 40z for 5 hours, or 50z for the
whole day. Or go for the tandem for double the price.
100z and ID deposit required. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00.
Cruising Krakw C-2, ul. Basztowa 17, tel. (+48)
514 55 60 17, www.cruisingkrakow.com. 15-30z
for 3 hours; each additional hour 5-8z - prices depend
of the type of bike rented. Bike tours also arranged daily,
no reservation necessary, just meet at the Mickiewicz
monument on the market square at 11:00, from Sep-
tember at 12:00. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Bike Rental
sun goes down, Plaa Krakw turns into more of a club, with
Wednesday salsa parties a particular standout. The easiest
way to get there is gather eight people together and take the
free ferry from the foot of Wawel. Lifes a beach. Q Swimming
pool 20z/per hour. Volleyball courts should be booked in
advance between 10:00 and 20:00, after which they are free.
Kryspinw Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 53, www.
kryspinow.com.pl. Krakws favourite summer sun desti-
nation is this artificial beach at Kryspinw Lagoon. As such
it can be incredibly crowded on sunny weekends. 12 km
away and well-connected to Krakw, Kryspinw features
li feguarded swimming areas, water sports rental equip-
ment, windsurfing and wakeboarding instruction (available
in English), water slides, playgrounds, a ropes course, beach
Bonia Meadow G-3. A massive and inexplicably
undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old
Town, the Bonia is a huge, triangular open space mea-
suring nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although
lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the
Polish name Bonie denotes a meadow - something of
an amiable linguistic redressing of the Bonias true and
unchanged historical function: its a cow pasture. The
areas ability to survive to modern times as the largest
city centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a
perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long
ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative
wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into
the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel
was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently
ban unfashionable bovines from the Bonia, only to find
themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally
binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which
they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not
being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic
partner in those times, city council decided to stick with
the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to
air old Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a great
idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called Bovines
on the Bonia, tell the mayor to get in touch with my
agent for more details), these days youll find the green
triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space
of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners,
while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running
and roller-blading. Protected as a National Heritage Site
since 2000, the Bonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor
events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most
notably - historic open air masses by the Pope during
his visits to Krakw.
Bonia Meadow
123
SHOPPING
122
LEISURE
While Krakw cannot be considered a shoppers paradise in
the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great
place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of
note include Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly
Plac Targowy (Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Cracovian
souvenirs head to the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main
square (C-3): find all manner of glasswork, lace, amber,
wood carvings, local sweets and stuffed dragons. For the
generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping
malls we list, however throughout this section weve made a
concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international
brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses;
so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is.
As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday
and take Sunday off altogether.
Alcohol & Tobacco
Nothing says, Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (and
maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if
its not to your taste. You cant walk a block in this city without
passing a church and an alcohol shop, so youve you r choice
of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands youll
find in fancy gift sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison grass
vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa Gorzka
(bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature
gold flakes. Thats quite a shopping list.
Strefa Piwa (Beer Zone) I-2, ul. Krowoderska 37,
tel. (+48) 12 426 42 54, www.strefa-piwa.pl. Next to
the solid bar of the same name, this is your go-to place in
Krakw for buying and sampling a wide-range (were talking
hundreds) of delicious beers from all over the world. QOpen
13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Szambelan C- 3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul.
Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.
pl. Huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absinths decanted from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can
ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and
stuffing it in your luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample first,
sample often. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:30,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.lhr.com.pl. An elite and elabo-
rate selection of wines from all over Italy. Attached is Bar
13, where you can sample a vast majority of them. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Below weve tried to identify some uniquely Polish (and/
or Cracovian) gift ideas for everyone on your list:
Girlfriend/Wife: Two words: jewellery and chocolate.
For the first choose a beautiful piece of Baltic gold from
World of Amber, and for the second head to Cracow
Chocolate Factory for some local sweets that are both
artistic and delicious.
Boyfriend/Husband: If you really want to spoil your
man, head to Wittchen and outfit him in a luxury leather
jacket, or perhaps something more practical and afford-
able like a hand-made wallet. If hubby has a taste for
tipples, head to Szambelan where you can decant one
of their exclusive meads, absinthes or flavoured vodkas
into a handsome gift bottle.
Mother: Amber always wins with women, so stop at
World of Amber to pick out a pendant mom will be proud
to wear. All moms also love Bolesawiec folk pottery, so
head to Dekor Art.
Father: As a man matures he needs a good hat, no?
The Chory hatmakers workshop has a surprisingly
stylish assortment of hand-made hats that would look
great on Dad. Or try Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy
for something old, odd and aesthetic that might be more
Dads style. If that fails, try what the Poles do when things
arent working out: vodka.
Sister: The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman
on your list, or try the natural, monk-made lotions and
cosmetics of Produkty Benedyktyskie. If sis is a bit of
a bookworm, head to Massolits Polish literature section
to pick out something of local interest.
Brother: For home boy hit Idea Fix and peruse their
collection of locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and other
urban gear. If your brothers more of an intellectual, search
for a unique 3-player chess set, or fine-crafted traditional
chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth Hall. If the young
mans an artist, pick out an avant-garde Polish film or the-
atre poster from the vast collection at Galeria Plakatu.
Children: Historically, childhood innocence hasnt been
a very long-lived developmental stage amongst Poles.
Apparently a privilege of the rich, what few toys there
are for sale in PL are outrageously expensive compared
to everything else. If the kids are infants, head straight
to Bajo for some locally-made wooden toys or Galeria
Bukowski for a Cracovian teddy bear. If that fails, candy
from Bombonierka will do the trick.
Grandparents: The land of babcias has plenty that
will please the old folks back home, including linen
and lacework from the Cloth Hall, Bolesawiec folk
ceramic from Dekor Art or local jarred foodstuffs from
Krakowski Kredens.
Gift Shopping At a Glance
PLs famous Bolesawiec pottery.
volleyball and a few eating options. The Hawana Bar also
makes it a popular party destination, organising numerous
events throughout the season. To get there take buses 209
or 269 from the Salwator tram roundabout to the Kryspinw
Zalew stop. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Officially open until the
end of August, and likely beyond if the weather is still good.
Passes 12/6z, family tickets 20z. Parking 10z.
Stani s aw Lem Sci ence Gar den (Ogr d
Dowiadcze) Al. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
346 12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. A fun, interactive
educational park for kids named after late, local sci-fi author
Stanisaw Lem. The 7 hectare park features different stations
engaging kids in optical illusions and the laws of physics.
Explanations are in English and Polish, and guides (English)
are available for an additional 15z if you call three days in
advance. Reserve 90 minutes to visit the park in its entirety
and get there from the centre via trams 1, 14 or 22 getting
off at the M-1/Al. Pokoju stop. Q Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 8/5,50z, children under 7 free. Family ticket
22z. Combined ticket for the Science Garden and the City
Engineering Museum 11/8z. Cash only.
Spa & Beauty
Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. This
luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star Niebieski hotel
is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a
variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your
skin through a series of peels and masks using top of line
cosmetics and munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of
the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam
bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to
have the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Swimming & Diving
Krakw Water Park (Park Wodny) L-1, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.parkwodny.
pl. The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland includes 800
metres of water slides for all ages, dragon and pirate play areas,
massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, swings and
other in-water activites, this incredible aquatic playground is
the thing your kid will remember most about Krakw. You wont
have such a bad time yourself with access to saunas, jacuzzis,
fitness and wellness centres and a pool-side cafe from which
you can watch your little terrors try to dunk each other. Prices
to the pool vary but are in the range of 12-23z for one hour, and
37-54z for day access. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
E- 4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.
pl. Authentic Thai massages: improve
blood and limphatic circulation, re-
lease physical and mental tension,
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of
joints, remove toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified
Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok.
The offer: Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses,
Relaxing massage with essential oils, Massage for
the physically active, Feetnlegs reflexology, Back &
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 100-300z.
Local art market along ul. Pijarska
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Massolit Books & Caf A- 4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best
English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in
large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on
all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and
Jewish literature in English, here youll also find recent
English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over
coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked
with remaindered books from the States, the selection is
surprisingly good, and the prices are the best youll find
anywhere. This legendary establishment has been long-
running but constantly needs and deserves support. Still
i f youre on a budget you can trade the novel you finished
on the train for credit towards a new one. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can be
found in Krakws shopping malls. High quality Polish brands
include Reserved, Vistula and Tatuum. All over Krakw
youll find secondhand clothing stores marked Tania Odzie
(Cheap Clothes). These stores range in quality, from items
sorted in dishevelled bins to others on actual hangers; many
are priced by weight and all have that distinctive embalmed
babcia (granny) smell. A weekly clothing market also occurs
Sundays on Plac Nowy (D-6).
Chory Caps & Hats D-7, ul. Krakowska 35a,
tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.prv.
pl. Maybe you arent aware, but Polish old man hats are
surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get
one. Affectionately known as the Hat Guy, give Jzef the
hatmaker a head and hell hand you a handsome, perfectly
fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and hell even custom
make one for you. Wi th Jzefs name and hi s shops
Cracovian address sewn into each one, these hats make
a great gi ft and keepsake; evidence of a world that is rap-
idly vanishing. And theyre a bargain. Jzef doesnt speak
English, but there shouldnt be much mystery between the
two of you; its not like youre trying to draft legislation -
its a hat, hes a hat guy. Q Reopening from August 15th,
10:00 - 17:00; closed Sat, Sun. From September open
10:00 - 18:00; closed Sat, Sun.
IDEA FIX Concept Store E-7, ul. Bocheska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. The idea here is
promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists
and designers - and for once were not talking about painted
angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with
an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hope-
fully encourage Krakws hundreds of DJs to pick up their
duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustain-
able consumption, drop in this expansive and sexy 230m2
concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and
accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and
music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 518 02 27 66, www.wittchen.com. One of
Polands top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality
hand-made leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand
bags, gloves, wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with
a hologramed Certi ficate of Authenticity proving its the
real deal. Carried at many shops around Krakw, visit one
of the shopping malls to see their company showroom.
Also at ul. Podgrska 34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul.
Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
a stack of unusual postcards. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Krakowski Antykwari at Naukowy C- 2, ul .
Sawkowska 6/8, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 43, www.
antkrak.krakow.pl. The quintessential Cracovian antique
bookshop (antykwariat), this outfit buys and sells old prints,
maps, graphic art, manuscripts, postcards, books, letters
and more. Ring the bell and head upstairs. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Books, Music & Film
Austeria E-6, ul. Jzefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48)
12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl. Situated in the historical
High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore
in Krakw, offering literature, history, guide books and
more in a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist
information. Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving
historical exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw. Admission
to the exhibit, 9/6z. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Gwny 5, tel. (+48)
22 451 04 68, www.empik.com. Right on the market
square, Empik is a veritable one-stop shop for books, music,
films, video games and more. A sizeable collection of English-
language periodicals lives on the ground floor, though the price
mark-ups can be shocking. On the upper floors youll find guide
books, maps and an English language fiction section, as well
as video game consoles for rainy days. The basement houses
a generally shabby, but also totally unpredictable selection of
overpriced CDs and here you can also buy tickets to major con-
certs and festivals in PL. Also at ul. Podgrska 34 (J-3, Galeria
Kazimierz), ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Centre) and
ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Krakws open-air markets are the best places to get
cheap local produce and the only places in the centre
where you can buy vegetables that arent white. Add to
that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs,
dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything
else you can think of and youve got yoursel f a ni fty
cultural experience as well. In addition to the legendary
Cloth Hall on the market square (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00), practice your Prosz and point skills at the
unique shopping environments listed below.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Plac
Targowys Sunday flea market, its uselessly rude at any
of the daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a
100 zoty note will also be met with utter disdain.
Plac Nowy D-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59, www.
placnowy.pl. This historic square was a Jewish market
in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the
open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce
and junk are sold daily. Its a different, often unpredictable
scene on the square each morning, but Saturdays are
generally reserved for more junk/antiques and Sundays
for clothing, while Tuesday and Friday mornings its a
full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one of the most
bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness if you arrive
early enough (ends about 8:00). Markets begin around
5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to mid-
afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined
with atmospheric bars.
Plac Targowy Uni -
t ar g E- 4, ul . Gr ze-
grzecka, tel. (+48)
12 429 61 55, www.
unitarg.krakow.pl. The
citys best outdoor mar-
ket, Hala Targowa is open
every day for everything
from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy
underwear and cheap wristwatches. Morning is the best
time to come and Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of
the week to hit the stalls, when it becomes a full-blown
sprawling flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic
icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia,
mismatched shoes, stol en bikes and pretty much
anything you can dream of at bargain prices. Di fferent
vendors set their own hours, but on Sundays most
are there at dawn and packing up between 14:00 and
15:00; on weekdays about 16:00. At night on Plac
Targowy youll find 2 24-hour alcky shops and the best
grilled kielbasa in town, sold from a van.
Stary Kleparz C/D-1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel.
(+48) 12 634 15 32, www.starykleparz.com. A
tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered, open-air
marketplace just north of the Barbakan offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local produce,
fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks,
sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the
order of the day during your visit. They say they are
open until 17:00, but most stalls will have closed up
much earlier. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Markets
Art & Antiques
Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work to
tourists right on the market square, and along ul. Pijarska
on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2). Remember, if
you are taking original art that is more than 50 years old and
of a potentially high value, youll need the proper paperwork
and permissions (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper
dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to
check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most
interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture
section for more cultural art gallery listings.
There is no shortage of possibilities for purchasing antiques
in Krakw. Serious shoppers will find that the best items end
up in the antique stores (Antyki, Antykwariat) that abound all
over Kazimierz and the Old Town with one of the best places to
prowl for lost treasure being ulica Jzefa (D/E-6) in Kazimierz.
Knowledgeable dealers offer prices comparable to those in
the rest of Europe, however there are still bargains aplenty in
the citys markets if your interest is more in finding an odd sou-
venir while having a unique cultural experience than finding an
undervalued 19th century artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home
to daily junk-peddlers, but the real bounty is revealed during
Plac Targowys Sunday morning flea market (E-4) where
every piece of trash has a price and haggling is compulsory.
Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal-
lery.com. Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art
for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs
for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
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Herbal vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in
Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the crafts-
men who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into
unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from
PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve
booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place
to begin is the Cloth Hall in the center of the market
square, where prices are surprisingly competitive, or visit
any of the many galleries around the Old Town.
Boruni Amber Inspirations C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel.
(+48) 12 423 10 81, www.boruni.pl. Also inside the
Cloth Hall (C-3, stand numbers 23, 29, 36) and in Crown
Piast Hotel (ul. Radzikowskiego 109). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48)
12 430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul.
Floriaska 13 and 22 (C-3), ul. Powile 7 (A-5, Sheraton
Krakw), and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center).
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Gifts & Souvenirs
Its only natural to want to bring something back home from
your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no
idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if
you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here
its common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are
chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of
them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00) in the middle of the market square. Essentially a huge
souvenir market, in the packed stalls youll find all sorts of
Polish keepsakes including amber jewellery, carved wood,
lace and cloth handicrafts and more. For a tourist market
the quality is surprisingly high and the prices generally fair,
so theres no shame in shopping there. Below weve listed
more unique local or national Polish businesses where you
can find attractive gifts and feel good about how you are
spending your money at the same time.
Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14 42,
www.bajo.eu. Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiel-
lonian University professor Woj ciech Bajor, this company
aims to create natural toys for natural play, without any
of the flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the
computer age are already overl y inundated wi th these
days. Ranging from colourful vehicles and animals to edu-
cational blocks, all of Bajos toys are artistically designed
entirely out of wood. Ideal for infants and young children
and entirely Cracovian. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12 284
15 67. The tag team of Dekor Art and Mila across the street
make ul. Sawkowska Krakws official Bolesawiec shopping
corridor. If youre not familiar with this well-loved folk ceramic
brand, head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed
full of colourful dishware with simple, hand-painted and
highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure to
help you make someone on your list happy. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs a
home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Kacper Ryx C- 3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426
45 49, www.kacperryx.pl. One of Krakws most
interesting gi ft stores, this small histori cal shop skips
the ki tsch, instead of fering a wide variety of hi gh-quali ty,
hand-made, history-based craft work. Enter via the same
door as the Hipoli t House museum, and step into what a
gi ft shop may have looked like centuries ago, i f there were
such a thing: shel ves and tabl es stocked wi th swords,
armour and weaponry; leather flasks, pouches and bags;
histori cal wood-prints and archaeol ogi cal repli cas; beer
steins, gobl ets and pottery; cowls, dresses and other
medi eval apparel. Pri ces are fair and i tems are ni cer
than much of what youll find in the Cl oth Hall. Recom-
mended. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. You know a city
has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there
anything which says Ive been there more than a Hard
Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw one to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St
Marys Church. Classic white costs 99z, black costs 105z.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Food & Sweets
Ciasteczka z Krakowa C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 21,
tel. (+48) 12 423 22 27, www.ciasteczkazkrakowa.
pl. Local sweets shop superpower selling cookies, cakes,
chocolates, wafers, pralines, truffles, fudge and ice cream
based on traditional recipes, with a lovely cafe for coffee or
tea. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Cracow Chocolate Factory B-3, ul. Szewska 7,
tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow.
pl. Wall-length street-front windows with a view into the
Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this enormous
2-floor old-school chocolatier that includes an immaculate
shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With delicious handmade
treats in every direction - truffles, pralines, chocolate bars,
postcards, figurines and more - Cracow Chocolate Factory
perfectly captures that kid in a candyshop excitement, and
is great for dodging the rain, spoiling the sweet tooth of a date
or picking up souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Located in the base-
ment of Krakws nicest most central shopping mall, this Italian
delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods
including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma
ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as
delicious locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies,
pastries and cakes are also made daily. With the sheer volume
of outstanding goods, Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the
most dangerous places you can take your wallet when youre
hungry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Kopernik C-4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13
06, www.kopernik.com.pl. A traditional dating back to the
15th century, Toru gingerbread is world-renowned and you
can purchase their range of novelty sweets in Krakw at this
enticing shop. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 696
49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An old-fashioned
dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite, Galician delica-
cies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured meats, candies
and pickled things. A warm roll with their sliced pork and
mustard from the streetside window is a gourmet street
food bargain at only 5-9z (depending on weight), while we
can also recommend the black pudding (kaszanka) and the
pork hock (golonka). Also at ul. Kamiskiego 11 (Bonarka City
Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska) and the airport.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie (Benedictine Prod-
ucts) D-6, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16,
www.benedicite.pl. This shop, set up by the Benedictine
monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of
products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups,
meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time.
All the products are completely natural, without pigment
and make excellent gifts. Naturally, you can also get them
online or straight from their source: Tyniec Abbey. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Sodki Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Great for gifts, in this
classic cafe and sweets shop youll find a plethora of pricey, but
gourmet, chocolates, caramels, bon-bons, cakes and biscuits
alongside traditional Polish liquors and meads. Some snazzy
gift boxes are available for the aesthetically-obsessed; try the
edible box made of chocolate if youre determined to go kitsch
shopping on the Rynek. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
FACTORY Outlet ul. Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka,
tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.factory.pl. 15 minutes
from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign
and domestic brands including Levis, Reserved, Calze-
donia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Solar, Simple and
many more. You can get there by catching a free bus
from Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) or Rondo Matecznego (I-5).
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Krakws economic renaissance and rated as the
areas most prestigious mall before the over-blown open-
ing of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre in
town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including media
giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M,
Zara, Simple, Mango, Bershka, Stradivarius and KappAhl,
cosmetic specialists Sephora, and revered jewellers W.
Kruk, Pandora and Swarovski. The Alma supermarket
offers Krakws premier selection of food and beverages,
while those preferring a sit down meal can choose from
the American-themed Jeffs or Pizza Hut. For recreational
needs Galeria Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema
City complex with a fitness club underneath it. Situated
next to the Kazimierz district the mall is easily accessed on
foot; those arriving by car have 1,600 free parking spaces
to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48)
12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Covering
60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived
in the centre by train its unlikely you missed this place:
a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the old
station building, which as malls go makes it one of the most
centrally located in Europe. GK has helped contribute to
the regeneration of an area that once was home to dodgy
dwellings and dealings, and now has a new square and train
platform access. Stores housed here include H&M, Peek &
Cloppenburg, electronics giant Saturn, an enormous Carre-
four supermarket and over 260 other retail units, 1400 car
parking spaces, an entertainment centre and restaurants.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasa 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12
617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek
townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in
2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus
Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasa
13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana,
Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. Youll also find a fine Italian
delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops
in Pasa 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13
are open from 09:00.
Shopping Malls
Like the Czech koda and
the East German Trabant,
the Pol i sh Mal uch has
served several purposes
during its lifetime; a God-
send for families behind
the Iron Curtain, source of
amusement for smirking
foreigners and now, as a
cult icon for nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports
have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to danger-
ously delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels
is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biaa and
Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license
with its official title being the Polish Fiat 126p. Its diminutive
size earned it the moniker of Maluch (Little One), a name so
widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened
the brand in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was
priced at 69,000z (approximately three times the average
annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Po-
land, despite being the size of a small refrigerator. Through-
out communist times the car could only be purchased by
joining a lengthy waiting list, though diligent workers would
often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt in 2000,
the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a remarkable
staying power, and youll still find scores of them coughing
smoke as they zip around Polish cities. Today a used Maluch
retails for about 300-500z, so theres little stopping you
from becoming a proud owner yourself.
The Maluch
Christophe Gruszka
128
DIRECTORY DIRECTORY
All you need to
know about where
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Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides
poland.inyourpocket.com
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Mexico ul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Slovakia D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Sweden B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
UK ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
Dentists
Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13, tel. (+48) 12 259
80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Emergency Room
5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocawska
1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, www.5wszk.com.pl.
Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 21, tel.
(+48) 12 351 66 01, www.su.krakow.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urzd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1, ul.
Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 15, www.bip.krakow.pl.
Language Schools
Profi-Lingua B-3, ul. Podwale 6, tel. (+48) 12 426 16
01, www.profi-lingua.pl.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Medicover K-3, ul. Podgrska 36, tel. (+48) 500 900
500, www.medicover.pl. Also ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B
(Prdnik Czerwony), ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki).
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2,
ul. Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.
pl. English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.
Kupa Synagogue D-6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance
from Miodowa). Jewish services held regularly, check www.
remuh.jewish.org.pl for details.
St. Giles Church (Koci w. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Translators & Interpreters
Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48)
12 422 73 37, www.fecica.pl. Can translate official docu-
ments. Call in advance.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikoajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Professional translators
who provide 24 hour services in all languages.
Changing money in Krakw is increasingly less fretful to
do, but it is still worth checking and comparing exchange
rates, particularly at entry points such as airports and
in major tourist areas. Here we check the rates of a
selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Below were their buying rates (how many
zoty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
15.07.13 compared to the following rates published by
the National Bank of Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro
1 = 4.2637z, US $1 = 3.2706z, GBP 1 = 4.9429z.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1
(Airport, International Arrivals), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 57, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.49z,
1 Dollar = 2.62z, 1 Pound = 4.08z. No commission.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Air-
port, International Departures), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 58, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.55z,
1 Dollar = 2.71z, 1 Pound = 4.11z. No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.24z, 1 Dollar = 3.23z, 1 Pound
= 4.85z. No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.25z, 1 Dollar =
3.25z, 1 Pound = 4.90z. No commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.26z, 1 Dollar =
3.26z, 1 Pound = 4.91z. No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.26z, 1 Dollar = 3.26z, 1 Pound = 4.92z. No
commission.
Currency Exchange
24hr Pharmacies
Apteka Dbam o Zdrowie I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel.
(+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636
73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznoci B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce in Krakw ul.
Jodowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46,
www.amcham.com.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. w.
Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria A-9, ul. Cybulskiego 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 99
40, www.aussenministerium.at/krakaugk.
Denmark B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Finland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Iceland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, institutfrancais.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Agrafka
BLU Plac
targowy
ul. Karmelicka 14, Krakw
Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
Ci voglio ritornare!
massi by
Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten
a better pizza.
Tadeusz Patek by
ul. Sienna 12, Krakw
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
Certifcate of Excellence 2012 Recomendation
What a hearty introduction
to Polish quisine!
Stuart Forster,
British Guild of travel writers
Etap
Hilton Garden
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Jzefiska
Schindlers
Factory
MOCAK
Kopiec
Krakusa Liban
Quarry
Fort Benedict
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Galaxy
view point
135
STREET REGISTER
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariaska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiaska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bauckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyska B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Boni fraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Boego Ciaa D-6/7
Boznaskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brzownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Buhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyska I-1
Cicha F-1
wiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersw L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czywka J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dbska L-2
Dajwr E-6
Daszyskiego J-3/4
Dbnicka H-4
Dbowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Duga C-1
Dugosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw A-2
Dominikaska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Faata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenna Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriaska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkaska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gsia K-3
Gowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gobia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegrzecka E-4
Gzymsikw I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclw I-1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrcw G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z obzowa F/G-1
Jagielloska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Jzefa D/E-6
Jzefitw H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyska A/B-3
Karowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelaska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kotaja E-3
Komandosw I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kociuszki H-3
Kosynierw L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Kolarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasiskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Krlewska H-1
Krlowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krtka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesawicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Ksicia Jzefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckoroska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretaska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublaska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska B-1/2
Madaliskiego A-6
Maa A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
May Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowcw E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michaowskiego A-1/2
Michaowskiego H/I-2
Mikoajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotw H-3
Myska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosinicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Grdku D-3
Na Przejciu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjedzie J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Obona H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowa I-1
Ofiar Dbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszaska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynw G-4
Pauliska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pdzichw I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego G-4/5
Pijarw K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Pisudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Baw E-6
Pl. Bernardyski C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidw H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Sowiaski C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski B-2
Pl. w. Ducha D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgrska E-7
Podchorych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Pkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powile A/B-5
Powronicza A-6
Powstacw lskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich,
Al. K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prdnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwionie I-4/5
Przemysowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Puaskiego A-6/7
Racawicka H-1
Radziwiowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rkawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Rana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dbnicki A-6
Rynek Gwny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgrski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzenicza K-3
Sdowa K-2
Salezjaska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skaeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbiskiego G-1
Skawiska C/D-7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sawkowska C-2/3
Somiana H-4/5
Soneckiego K-1
Sonecznikowa F-3
Sowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smolesk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sotyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiowa F-1/2
Starowilna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowcw L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelcw K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepaska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
lska I-1
liska I-5
lusarska K-4
niadeckiego J-3/4
w. Agnieszki C-6
w. Anny B-3
w. Bronisawy G-3
w. Filipa C/D-1
w. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
w. Idziego C-5
w. Jacka H-5
w. Jana C-2/3
w. Katarzyny D-6/7
w. Krzya D-3
w. azarza J-3
w. Marka C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana C/E-5
w. Stanisawa C-7
w. Teresy I-1
w. Tomasza B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca D/E-6/7
witokrzyska I-1
Tenczyska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Waowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Wglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wiolarska G-4
Wilna B-3
Wadysawa okietka I-1
Wociaska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodocigowa F-4
Wjtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wrblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocawska H/I-1
Wrzesiska E-4
Wyczkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiaskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zaktek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zauek K-4
Zegadowicza A-4
Zieliskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
elazna J-1
kiewskiego K-3
136
LISTINGS INDEX
4D Gelato Caffe 62
Adam Mickiewicz 82
AeroPlatform 121
Alchemia 74
Alchemia od Kuchni 62, 70
Alebriche 50
Amadeus 28, 38
Amarone 44, 64
Ambasada ledzia 71
Amber Design 28
andel's Hotel Cracow 28
Andromeda 38
Antycafe 66
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 26
Aperiti f 38, 64
Aqua e Vino 44
Aqua Fun 120
Archaeology Museum 83
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal
Karol Wojtya 84
Ariel 49
Artefakt Cafe 74
Ascot Hotel 31
Augusta 44
Auschwitz I 113
Auschwitz II - Birkenau 114
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra
Lomdei Mishnayot Synagogue 114
Austeria 124
Baccarat 70
Bagelmama 34
Bajo 127
Bal 62
BaniaLuka 71
Barbican 80
Barka Food, Li fe, Music 44
Bar Smak 51
Bar Targowy 52
base music club 70
Basteja 117
B&B La Fontaine 26
Beer Gallery - Luxury 66
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace 84
Bonia Meadow 121
Bococa 62
Bomba 66
Bombaj Tandoori 37
Boruni Amber Inspirations 126
Boscaiola 44
Botanical Garden 121
Bristol 117
Budda Drink & Garden 66
Bull Pub 66
Bunkier Cafe 67
Burlesque 70
Cafe Mynek 60
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystw N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchw P-4
Daniowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawa II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T-1
Ludmierska N-1/2
empickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mocickiego O/P-1
Cafe Sza 62
Cafe Tramwaj 118
Camaldolese Monastery 104
Camelot 63
Campanile 31
Carriage Rides 86
Castle 89
Cathedral 90, 118
Cathedral Museum 91
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist
Information 90
Ceska Chodba 36
Chapel of St. Margaret 102
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 62
Cheder 63
Chianti 44
Chimera Salad Bar 48
Chopskie Jado 51
Chopin Cracow 31
Chory Caps & Hats 125
Church of St. Bartholomew 106
Church of St. John the Baptist 106
Church of the Holy Saviour 103
Ciasteczka z Krakowa 126
Cie 71
City Defensive Walls 84
City Engineering Museum 94
C.K. Browar 51, 67
Classic 31
Cloth Hall 84
COCA 48
Coco Music Club 71
Collegium Maius 84
Cool Tour Company 120
Copernicus 26, 38
Corner Burger 40
Corpus Christi Church 94
Cracow Chocolate Factory 126
Cracow City Tours 78
Cracow Tours 81
Crazy Guides 107
Crown Treasury & Armoury 89
Cruising Krakw 120
Cukiernia Michalscy 64
Czerwone Korale 52
Da Pietro 46
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 49
Dekor Art 127
Deli Bar 37
Delikatesy 13 126
Diocesan Museum 118
DiscoverCracow.eu 78, 81
Diva Music Gallery 71
Dragon's Den 91
Duy Pokj 39
Dym 67
Obrocw Krzya N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjani, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
R, al. O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wakowicza S-1
Wwozowa S-1
Winiowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchw P-3/4
eromskiego O/P-1/2
Dynia Resto Bar 39
Eden 31
Empik Megastore 124
Eros Bendato 82
Eszeweria 74
Ethnographic Museum 95, 118
Europejska 39
FACTORY Outlet 127
Father Bernatek Footbridge 96
Fort Benedict 8
Forum Przestrzenie 8
Francuski 28
Frantic 71
Free Walking Tours 81
Galaxy 28
Galeria Bukowski 127
Galeria Kazimierz 127
Galeria Krakowska 127
Galeria Plakatu 124
Galicia Jewish Museum 95
Gallery of Ancient Art 85
Ganesh 37
Genji Premium Sushi 47
Ghetto Wall Fragments 99
Gold Club 73
Gorczka 71
Grand 26
Grande Grill 34
Greg & Tom Beer House 33
Grdek 26
Grunwald Monument 82
Hamsa 43
Hard Rock Cafe 34, 67
Haweka 52, 64
High Synagogue 96
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw 29
Hipolit House 85
History of Photography Museum 86
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 26
Home Army Museum 86
Hotel Kazimierz 31
Hotel Kazimierz II 31
Hotel Kossak 29
Hotel Stary 27
Hotel Unicus 29
House Of Beer 67
Hutten-Czapski Museum 86
Ibis Budget Krakw Bronowice 33
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto 33
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto 32
IDEA FIX Concept Store 125
Il Calzone 46
Indus Tandoor 38
Irish Mbassy 68
Isaac Synagogue 96
Jama Michalika 64
Jan Matejko House 86
Jan Matejko Manor House 106
Jarden 94
Jarema 52
Jewish Community 94
Jewish Community Centre 94
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre 78
Jzef Mehoffer House 87
Judaica Foundation 94
Kacper Ryx 127
Karma 60
Karma Coffee Roasters 64
Karmel 32
Kawaleria Szara Smaku 52
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 70
Kitsch 72, 75
Klezmer Hois 49
Klub Pikny Pies 75
Klub Re 68
Kogel Mogel 52
Koji 47
Konfederacka 4 65
Kopernik 126
Kociuszko Mound 103
Krakw Beach 121
Krakw History Museum Visitor
Services Centre 78
Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy 124
Krakowski Kredens 126
Krakowski Park Linowy 120
Krakow Valley Gol f & Country Club
120
Krakw Water Park 122
Krakw Zoo 104
Krakus Mound 97
Kryspinw 121
Kuchnia i Wino 39
Kura 49
La Campana Trattoria 46
La Fontaine 36
Laser Park 120
Le Scandale 62, 74
Liban Quarry 9
Literki 75
Lizard King 68
Lost Wawel 89
Love Krove 40
Mamma Mia 46
Mamy Cafe 64
Manggha 87
Manzana 50, 62
Marcello 46
Marmolada 54
Massolit Books & Caf 65, 125
Matejko 29
Miejsce 74
Milano Ristorante 47
Ministerstwo 72
Mid i Wino 54, 64
Mid Malina 54
Mleczarnia 74
Moaburger 40
Nowa Huta Street Register
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
138
Moment 74
Moment Resto 62
Momo 60
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 40
Morskie Oko 54
Mostowa Art Cafe 75
Movida Cocktail Bar 68
Museum of Contemporary Art 98
National Museum, Main Building 87
New Jewish Cemetery 96
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 27
Norbertine Monastery 102
Nova Resto Bar 39
Novotel Krakw Centrum 29
Novotel Krakw City West 29
Nowa Huta Museum 106
Noworolski 65
Old Podgrze Cemetery 98
Old Synagogue 96
Omerta 75
Oriental Art 89
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 29
Pasa 13 127
Pauza 68
Pharmacy Museum 87
Pharmacy Under the Eagle 100
Piec'Art 68
Pieroki Mr. Vincent 54
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 71
Pisudski Mound 104
Pimiento 49
Plac Nowy 93, 125
Plac Targowy Unitarg 125
Plac Wolnica 92
Pod Anioami 55
Pod Baranem 55
Pod Norenami 61
Pod Papugami Irish Pub 68
Pod R 29, 40
Pod Temid 52
Pod Wawelem 32, 55
Polakowski 55
Polish Aviation Museum 88
Pollera 32
Polski Pod Biaym Orem 30
Portofino 50
Produkty Benedyktyskie 126
Prozak 2.0 72
Qubus Hotel Krakw 30
Radisson Blu 27
Ratuszowa 47
Red Kurka 26
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery 96
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim
58, 64
Restauracja Unicus 40
Resto Bar Kipi 40
Resto Illuminati 40
Rock Shop 127
Royal 32
Royal Art Cafe 65
Royal Crypts 91
Royal Krakw Gol f & Country Club
120
Rozrywki Trzy 72
Rubinstein Residence 30
Ruczaj 32
Rynek Underground 85
Salwator Cemetery 103
Sandomierska Tower 90
Satori Cafe-Bistro 65
Scandale Royal 40, 70
Schindler's Factory 98
See Krakow 78
SeeKrakow Guided Tours 81
Senacki 30
Shakers Krakw 73
Sheraton Krakw 27
Sigismund Bell 91
Singer 75
Skaka 94
Sky Bar 65
Sodki Wierzynek 126
Sowacki Theatre 80
Smakoyki 58
Smak Ukraiski 60
SomePlace Else 34, 69
Soprano 118
Spazio 69
Spdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-
away 61
Spoem 73
SS Peter & Paul's Church 80
St. Adalberts 80
Stajnia 75
Stalowe Magnolie 68
St. Andrews 80
Stanisaw Lem Science Garden 122
Stara Zajezdnia 58
Starmach Gallery 99
Stary Kleparz 125
State Rooms & Royal Private
Apartments 90
St. Benedict's 98
St. Francis' Basilica 80
St. Joseph's 98
St. Marys Basilica 81
Streat Slow Food 48
Strefa Piwa 123
Studio Qulinarne 42
wita Krowa 69
Szambelan 123
Szara 42
Szara Kazimierz 42
Taawa 75
Taboo Gentlemen's Club 73
Tektura 65
Temple Synagogue 96
The Central Square & Roses Avenue
107
The Cistercian Monastery 106
The Lord's Ark 106
The Mexican 51
The Olive 42
The Piano Rouge 42, 68
The Saltworks Castle & Museum 110
The Secret Garden Hostel 33
The Szoayski House 88
Tourist Information Centre 118
Tournet 33
Town Hall Museum 118
Town Hall Tower 88
Tradycyja 43
Trsor 36
Trufla 43
Trzy Rybki 43
Tyskie Brewery 115
U Babci Maliny 58
U Jana 117
Ulica Pomorska 88
U Muniaka 68
Underground Health Resort 110
U Stasi 48
Vanilla Sky 43
Vanilla SPA 122
Vinoteka 13 123
Vis a Vis 69
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum 112
Wanda's Mound 107
Warsztat 50
Water Equipment 120
Wawel 32
Wawel Visitor Centre 91
Wentzl 30
Wentzl Magda Gessler 59
Wesele 59
Wianki 59
Wieliczka Salt Mine 110
Wielopole 32
Wierzynek 59
Wittchen 125
World of Amber 126
Wyspiaski 32
Yellow Dog 34
ZaKadka - Food & Wine 36
Zakrzwek 9
Zapiecek Ekspres 70
Zazie Bistro 37
Zdybanka 60
Abandoned Krakw 8
Adult Entertainment 73
Barbican 80
Beer Gardens 66
Bonia Meadow 121
Breakfast 62
Burgers 40
Carriage Rides 86
Cloth Hall 84
Cracovian Cooking A-O 56
Cracovian Cooking P-Z 57
Currency Exchange 128
Dining at a Glance 34
Dishing Up History 86
Facts & Figures 15
Father Bernatek Footbridge 96
Gift Shopping At a Glance 123
Guided Tours 81
Have Your Say 61
Krakw Historical Timeline 76
Krakus Mound 97
Lady With an Ermine 90
Language Smarts 16
Late Night Eats 70
Liban Quary 9
Live Music 68
Lodgings at a Glance 26
Lunch 64
Market Values 16
Memories of Lenin 107
Milk Bars 52
Nightlife At A Glance 66
Norbertine Legends 103
Oskar Schindler 101
Out of Centre 88
Pigeons 45
Plac Nowy 93
Plac Wolnica 92
Polish Desserts 63
Polish Snacks & Shots 71
Polish Vodka 72
Quick Eats 48
Riverboat Dining 44
Rynek Underground 85
Sowacki Theatre 80
Station History 12
The Hejna 77
The Maluch 126
The Obwarzanek 44
Features Index
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