Assistant ProIessor Dr. Apichart Sonthisombat, Rajamangala Institute oI Technology 2 Basic Textile Terms and Definitions Dyestuff is organic or inorganic substances which can absorb light and reIlect some lights to show color. Actually, the dyestuII is water soluble substances. Pigment is a substance that can absorb light and reIlect some lights to show color but it is water insoluble substances. Normally it is used Ior printing (with the presence oI binder) or mass-coloration oI the synthetic Iibers. 3 Staining is an unpleasant oI dyeing in the area that we do not want. Exhaustion oI the dyestuII to the Iibers is as Iollows: 1. Moving oI dyestuII Irom dyebath to surIace oI the Iiber 2. Adsorption oI the dyestuII into the surIace oI the Iiber 3. DiIIusion oI the dyestuII into the center oI the Iiber 4 Classification of Dyestuffs DyestuIIs can be classiIied by many methods as Iollows: 1. by their ionic (e.g. cationic, anionic and non-ionic) 2. by their Iiber dyeabilities (e.g. on cellulosic, protein, polyester, polyamide etc.) 3. by their names (e.g. acid, direct, disperse, reactive, basic etc.) 4. by their chemical structures (e.g. azo, anthraquinone, stilbene etc.) 5. by their origins (e.g. natural, synthetic) 6. by their colors (e.g. red, green, black etc.) 5 Dyeing Processes can be applied in many stages such as 1. Mass-coloration oI the molten Iibers This method is Ior dyeing the molten Iibers or plastic chips or textile polymers with pigment dyes. AIter that, the molten or polymers will extrude Irom a spinneret to Iorm Iibers. Normally, the synthetic Iibers are added with white pigment in order to give a hiding power (non-see through Iabrics). Advantage: give excellent Iastness Disadvantage: very diIIicult to clean 6 2. Fiber Dyeing is the method oI dyeing Iibers beIore blending with other colors to give Iancy yarns or Iabrics. Note: This is used Ior special purposes only. 3. Yarn Dyeing is the method oI dyeing yarns in Iorms oI hanks or packages dyeing. This will give Scottish`s style Iabrics, carpet with many colors and styles. Note: This is used in hand loom weaving in the Northern and North-eastern parts oI Thailand. 7 8 4. Fabric Dyeing is the method aIter weaving, knitting, or non-woven to make Iabrics. This is very popular method oI dyeing as the dyed Iabrics will be processed Iurther to garment industries very easily. Dyeing forms oI the Iabric dyeing can be used in 2 ways: 1. Open width Iorm using the Iabrics to spread without any creases and dye them. 2. Rope Iorm using the Iabrics with the Iorm like a rope (many creases and look like 'a rope) 9 Some people classiIy into: 1. Exhaustion Process This method is using lot oI water as shown in 'Liquor Ratio (ratio between water and goods) This should immerge the goods into dye solution Ior a long time in order to let the dye penetrate into the goods. This will lead to produce more waste water than the continuous process. Advantage: inexpensive, no need to train the worker to look aIter and run them properly. Disadvantage: lots oI water needed, very slow process (60-120 min/batch.) 10 2. Continuous Process This method is designed by putting diIIerent machinery into a sequence so that it can produce the dyed Iabric in one pass. Advantage: very Iast process (10-100 m/min), small amount oI water in the process. Disadvantage: very expensive, need to train the worker to look aIter and run them properly. 11 Examples oI the open width Iorm Iabric dyeing 12 Examples oI the rope Iorm Iabric dyeing 13 6. Garment Dyeing This method is the last process oI the dyeing oI goods. However, the penetration oI the dye solution may not be completely passed to the Iibers such as between the seams, buttons, zippers etc. Normally, it is used Ior lingerie, socks, sweater dyeing etc. 14 15 Name oI DyestuIIs Fibers that can be dyed Acid Silk, wool, polyamide, leather Basic Acrylic Direct Cellulosic, viscose Disperse Acetate, triacetate, polyamide, polyester, acrylic Reactive Cellulosic, viscose, protein Vat Cellulosic Sulphur Cellulosic 16 Factors that give some choices of the dyestuffs 1. Cheap 2. Non-toxic 3. Compatible to other dyes and chemicals 4. High color strength 5. Better brightness 6. Better Iastness 7. Good levelness on the materials 17 Dyes for Cellulosic Fibers Direct Dyes (Anionic) They can be dyed directly on cellulosic Iibers. Without the presence oI salt, when the Iibers are immerged in water, it will show anionic charge which repels the dyes. Adding salt into the dye bath, it will reduce anionic on the Iibers so the dyes can get closer and adsorb into the Iibers. Advantage: cheap, easily dyed on Iibers Disadvantage: poor wet Iastness and some dyes have poor light Iastness. 18 Textile Auxiliaries 1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the Iibers 2. Water - dyeing media 3. Fixing Agent - enhance wet Iastness but usually reduce light Iastness Dyeing Conditions (Exhaustion) dyeing 100oC x 30-90 min Iixing 60oC x 20 min (Continuous) pad --~ dry --~ steam --~ wash --~ soap --~ dry 19 Reactive Dyes (Anionic) They can be dyed on cellulosic Iibers. The mechanism is nearly the same as described in Direct dyes. Advantage: high wet Iastness due to covalent bonding (Chemical Bonding) between Iibers and dyes, easily dyed on Iibers Disadvantage: Expensive 20 Dyeing Conditions 1. Continuous Process 1.1 Pad-dry-bake This is very easy method Ior cotton or cotton blends Iibers. 1.2 Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical)-Steam This will give brighter and more intense color than method 1.1. 1.3 Pad-batch This will put the goods into the dye solution and squeeze with 2 rubber rollers to get rid oI excess water and then batch at room temperature Ior 1-2 days. 21 2. Exhaustion Process This method will be used in small Iactory. Dyeing conditions will be 40-80oC Ior 30-90 min depending to the types and structures oI the dyes. 22 Textile Auxilaries 1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the Iibers 2. Water - dyeing media 3. Soda Ash - excite the dye to link with the Iibers with covalent bonding. ThereIore, it enhances wet Iastness 4. Fixing Agent - enhance wet Iastness Ior heavy shade but usually reduce light Iastness. 23 Vat Dye (Anionic when soluble) The dye is named Irom the container (Vat) that used Ior rotting the dye with alkali solution. This crucial process will reduce the dye Irom insoluble to soluble dye (suitable Ior exhaustion in the cellulosic Iibers). Now the manuIacturer can synthesize man-made vat dye. 24 Dyeing Process 1. Dissolve dye into water (insoluble dye) 2. Vatting process by reducing the insoluble dye in alkali condition. (soluble dye) 3. Absorb into Iibers (soluble dye) 4. AIter dyeing, oxidize the dye with oxidizing agent (insoluble dye) 5. Wash and soap the goods 25 Dyeing Conditions 1. Continuous Process 1.1 Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical) The solution oI the dye is prepared without adding reducing agent to ensure leveling dyeing. AIter that, the goods are passed to chemical bath to reduce the dye into soluble dye and Iix within the goods. Oxidizing agent is added to the goods and converted to insoluble dyes. 26 1.2 Pad-oxidize-pad-oxidize (many times) This will put the goods into the dye solution and squeeze with 2 rubber rollers to get rid oI excess water, oxidize with the air and then immerse into the dye solution again and again to allow the dye penetrate into the goods. 27 Textile Auxilaries 1. Salt - reduce the negative charges on the Iibers 2. Sodium hydroxide - adjust pH to the dyeing bath and make the suitable conditions Ior reducing agent. 3. Sodium hydrosulIite - reducing agent Ior the vat dyes. 4. Water - dyeing media 5. Oxidizing agents - (Hydrogen peroxide or Acetic acid or Air) oxidize the soluble to insoluble dye 28 Sulfur Dye (Anionic when soluble) The dyeing process has the same process as described in the vat dye except that using Sodium sulIide instead oI Sodium hydrosulIide. 29 Dyes for Synthetic Fiber Disperse Dye (polyester, nylon, and acetate) (non-ionic) The dye is named Irom less water soluble and normally appeared in dispersion in water. The dye shows no charge due to the groups presented in the dye molecules. Dyeing Conditions Insoluble dye in water Less water soluble Water insoluble in polyester Iibers 30 1. Exhaustion Process 1.1 At boil with carrier This process is suitable Ior acetate Iiber and pale shade polyester Iiber dyeing. Carrier is an auxiliary Ior swollen Iiber in order to allow more dyes absorbing in. Now the use oI carrier is reduced because it may be a carcinogen. 1.2 At 130oC without carrier With the high temperature, the dyes will be dissolved into smaller molecules and the void in Iiber structure will be opened. This will give heavy shade. 31 2. Continuous Process Pad --~ Pre-dry (100oC x 30 sec) --~ ThermoIixation (180oC x 30 sec) --~ reduction clearing (RC) --~ wash --~ dry Printing with Disperse Dyes With the sublimation property, the dyes can be printed on paper, place the Iabric with a printed paper and then using an iron with high temperature pressed on the paper. The dyes will transIer Irom paper to polyester Iiber. This is called 'TransIer Printing. 32 Textile Auxilaries 1. Dispersing Agent - make the dye solution stable and disperse in the dye bath. 2. Acid - adjust pH to the suitable condition Ior the dye bath. 3. Carrier - swell the Iiber and dissolve the dye to make the dye getting into Iiber. 4. Leveling agent - make more leveling dyeing (some will have adverse eIIect on slower dyeing) 5. Water - dyeing media 33 Reduction Clearing (R.C.) AIter dyeing process, the dyed goods should be removed excess dyes on the Iiber surIace. R.C. will give higher washing and rubbing Iastness oI the dyed goods. Using alkali solution, sodium hydrosulIide and dispersing agent, the R.C. will be done at 60oC x 20 min. Note: Do not use more than the recommended temperature because sodium hydrosulIide can be decomposed. 34 Acid Dye (Anionic) The dye is called acid because it needs acidic dyeing condition. It can be dyed on protein Iibers (silk, wool, other animal Iibers) and on polyamide Iibers. Acidic condition will give the Iibers showing positive charge. As the negative charge will attach directly to positive charge, and penetrate into the Iibers. Dyeing conditions 100oC x 30-60 min 35 Textile Auxiliaries 1. Leveling agent - Ior levelness dyeing 2. Retarding agent - Ior inhibiting the dye not attach to Iibers too Iast 3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and make the Iibers to show positive charges 4. Water - dyeing media 36 Basic Dye (Cationic) The dye shows positive charge. Normally, the dye can be applied on wool, silk and polyacrylonitrile (acrylic). Dyeing Conditions 100oC x 30-60 min 37 Textile Auxiliaries 1. Leveling agent - Ior levelness dyeing 2. Retarding agent - Ior inhibiting the dye not attach to Iibers too Iast 3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and make the Iibers to show negative charges 4. Water - dyeing media 38 Dyes Dyeing Condition (pH) Acid (Wool) 2-4, 4-6, 6-8 (depends on types oI dyes) Acid (Nylon) 4.5-5.5, 6-7 (depends on types oI dyes) Basic 3.5-4 Direct 7.0 Disperse (Polyester) 5-6 Disperse (Acetate) 6.5-7.0 Disperse (Triacetate) 4.5-6.5 Reactive 7.0 (Exhaustion) 11.0 (Fixing) -------------------------