Rituals at McDonalds

b y Conrad P.Kottak

he world is blessed each day, on the average, with the opening of a new McDonalds restaurant. They now number more than 4,000 and dot not only the United States but also such countries as Mexico, Japan, Australia, England, France, Germany, and Sweden. The expansion of this international web of franchises and company-owned outlets has been fast and efficient; a little more than twenty years ago McDonalds was limited to a single restaurant in San Bernardino, California. Now, the number of McDonalds outlets has far outstripped the total number of fastfood chains operative in the United States thirty years ago. McDonalds sales reached $1.3 billion in 1972, propelling it past Kentucky Fried Chicken as the worlds largest fast-food chain. It has kept this position ever since. Annual sales now exceed $3 billion. McDonalds is the nations leading buyer of processed potatoes and fish. Three hundred thousand cattle die each year as McDonalds customers down another three billion burgers. A 1974 advertising budget of $60 million easily made the chain one of the countrys top advertisers. Ronald McDonald, our best-known purveyor of hamburgers, French fries, and milkshakes, rivals Santa Claus and Mickey Mouse as our childrens most familiar fantasy character. How does an anthropologist, accustomed to explaining the life styles of diverse cultures, interpret these peculiar developments and attractions that influence the daily life of so many Americans? Have factors other than low cost, taste, fast service, and cleanliness-all of which are approximated by other chains- contributed to McDonalds success? Could it be that in consuming McDonalds products and propaganda, Americans are not just eating and watching television but are experiencing something comparable in some respects to a religious ritual? A brief consideration of the nature of ritual may answer the latter question. Several key features distinguish ritual from other behavior, according to anthropologist Roy Rappaport. Foremost, are formal ritual events-stylized, repetitive, and stereotyped. They occur in special places, at regular times, and include liturgical orders-set sequences of words and actions laid down by someone other than the current performer.
Reprinted with permission from Natural History Magazine, January 1978. Copyright @ The

American Museum of Natural History, 1978.

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Rituals also convey information about participants and their cultural traditions. Performed year after year, generation after generation, they translate enduring messages, values, and sentiments into observable action. Although some participants may be more strongly committed than others to the beliefs on which rituals are based, all people who take part in joint public acts signal their acceptance of an order that transcends their status as individuals. In the view of some anthropologists, including Rappaport himself, such secular institutions as McDonalds are not comparable to rituals. They argue that rituals involve special emotions, nonutilitarian intentions, and supernatural entities that are not characteristic of Americans participation in McDonalds. But other anthropologists define ritual more broadly. Writing about football in contemporary America, William Arens (see The Great American Football Ritual, Natural History, October 1975) points out that behavior can simultaneously have sacred as well as secular aspects. Thus, on one level, football can be interpreted simply as a sport, while on another, it can be viewed as a public ritual. While McDonalds is definitely a mundane, secular institution- just a place to eat-it also assumes some of the attributes of a sacred place. And in the context of comparative religion, why should this be surprising? The French sociologist Emile Durkheim long ago pointed out that some societies worship the ridiculous as well as the sublime. The distinction between the two does not depend on the intrinsic qualities of the sacred symbol. Durkheim found that Australian aborigines often worshiped such humble and nonimposing creatures as ducks, frogs, rabbits, and grubs-animals whose inherent qualities hardly could have been the origin of the religious sentiment they inspired. If frogs and grubs can be elevated to a sacred level, why not McDonalds? I frequently eat lunch-and occasionally, breakfast and dinner-at McDonalds. More than a year ago, I began to notice (and have subsequently observed more carefully) certain ritual behavior at these fast-food restaurants. Although for natives, McDonalds seems to be just a place to eat, careful observation of what goes on in any outlet in this country reveals an astonishing degree of formality and behavioral uniformity on the part of both staff and customers. Particularly impressive is the relative invariance in act and utterance that has developed in the absence of a distinct theological doctrine. Rather, the ritual aspect of McDonalds rests on twentieth-century technology-particularly automobiles, television, work locales, and the one-hour lunch. The changes in technology and work organization that have contributed to the chains growth in the United States are now taking place in other countries. Only in a country such as France, which has an established and culturally enshrined cuisine that hamburgers and fish filets cannot hope to displace, is McDonaldls expansion likely to be retarded. Why has McDonalds been so much more successful than other businesses, than the United States Army, and even than many religious institutions in producing behavioral invariance? Remarkably, even Americans traveling abroad in countries noted for their distinctive food usually visit the local McDonalds outlet. This odd behavior is probably caused by the same factors that urge us to make yet another trip to a

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McDonalds here. Wherever a McDonalds may be located, it is a home away from home. A t any outlet, Americans know how to behave, what to expect, what they will eat, and what they will pay. If one has been unfortunate enough to have partaken of the often indigestible pap dished out by any turnpike restaurant monopoly, the sight of a pair of McDonalds golden arches may justify a detour off the highway, even if the penalty is an extra toll. In Paris, where the French have not been expecially renowned for making tourists feel at home, McDonalds offers sanctuary. It is, after all, an American institution, where only Americans, who are programmed by years of prior experience to salivate at the sight of the glorious hamburger, can feel completely at home. Americans in Paris can temporarily reverse roles with their hosts; if they cannot act like the French, neither can the French be expected to act in a culturally appropriate manner at McDonalds. Away from home, McDonalds, like a familiar church, offers not just hamburgers but comfort, security, and reassurance. An Americans devotion to McDonalds rests in part on uniformities associated with almost all McDonalds: setting, architecture, food, ambience, acts, and utterances. The golden arches, for example, serve as a familiar and almost universal landmark, absent only in those areas where zoning laws prohibit garish signs. At a McDonalds near the University of Michigan campus in Ann Arbor, a small, decorous sign-golden arches encircled in wrought iron-identifies the establishment. Despite the absence of the towering arches, this McDonalds, where I have conducted much of my fieldwork, does not suffer as a ritual setting. The restaurant, a contemporary brick structure that has been nominated for a prize in architectural design, is best known for its stained-glass windows, which incorporate golden arches as their focal point. On bright days, sunlight floods in on waiting customers through a skylight that recalls the clerestory of a Gothic cathedral. In the case of this McDonalds, the effect is to equate traditional religious symbols and golden arches. And in the view of the natives I have interviewed, the message is clear. When Americans go to a McDonaldsrestaurant, they perform an ordinary, secular, biological act-they eat, usually lunch. Yet, immediately upon entering, we can tell from our surroundings that we are in a sequestered place, somehow apart from the messiness of the world outside. Except for such anomalies as the Ann Arbor campus outlet, the town house McDonalds in New York city, and the special theme McDonalds of such cities as San Francisco, Saint Paul, and Dallas, the restaurants rely on their arches, dull brown brick, plate-glass sides, and mansard roofs to create a setting as familiar as home. In some of the larger outlets, murals depicting McDonaldland fantasy characters, sports, outdoor plastic seats and tables. In this familiar setting, we do not have to consider the experience. We know what we will see, say, eat, and Pay. Behind the counter, McDonalds employees are differentiated into such categories as male staff, female staff, and managers. While costumes vary slightly from outlet to outlet and region to region, such apparel as McDonalds hats, ties, and shirts, along with dark pants and shining black shoes, are standard.

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The food is also standard, again with only minor regional variations. (Some restaurants are selected to test such new menu items at McChicken or different milkshake flavors.) Most menus, however, from the rolling hills of Georgia to the snowy plains of Minnesota, offer the same items. The prices are also the same and the menu is usually located in the same place in every restaurant. Utterances across each spotless counter are standardized. Not only are customers limited in what they can choose but also in what they can say. Each item on the menu has its appropriate McDonalds designation: quarter pounder with cheese or filet-0-fish or large fries. The customer who asks, Whats a Big Mac? is as out of place as a southern Baptist at a Roman Catholic Mass. At the McDonalds that I frequent, the phrases uttered by the salespeople are just as standard as those of the customers. If I ask for a quarter pounder, the ritual response is Will that be with cheese, sir? If I do not order French fries, the agent automatically incants, Will there be any fries today, sir? And when I pick up my order, the agent conventionally says, Have a nice day, sir, followed by, Come in again. Nonverbal behavior of McDonalds agents is also programmed. Prior to opening the spigot of the drink machine, they fill paper cups with ice exactly to the bottom of the golden arches that decorate them. As customers request food, agents look back to see if the desired item is available. If not, they reply, Thatll be a few minutes, sir (or maam), after which the order of the next customer is taken. McDonalds lore of appropriate verbal and nonverbal behavior is even taught at a seminary, Hamburger University, located in E l k Grove Village, Illinois, near Chicagos OHare airport. Managers who attend choose either a two-week basic operators course or an eleven-day advanced operators course. With a 360-page Operations Manual as their bible, students learn about food, equipment, and management techniques-delving into such esoteric subjects as buns, shortening, and carbonization. Filled with the spirit of McDonalds, graduates take home such degrees as bachelor or master of hamburgerology to display in their outlets. Their job is to spread the word- the secret success formula they have learned-among assistant managers and crew in their restaurants. The total McDonalds ambience invites comparison with sacred places. The chain stresses clean living and reaffirms those traditional American values that transcend McDonalds itself. Max Boas and Steve Chain, biographers of McDonalds board chairman, Ray Kroc, report that after the hundredth McDonalds opened in 1959, Kroc leased a plane to survey likely sites for the chains expansion. McDonalds would invade the suburbs by locating its outlets near traffic intersections, shopping centers, and churches. Steeples figured prominently in Krocs plan. He believed that suburban church-goers would be preprogrammed consumers of the McDonalds formula -quality, service, and cleanliness. McDonalds restaurants, nestled beneath their transcendent arches and the American flag, would enclose immaculate restrooms and floors, counters and

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stainless steel kitchens. Agents would sparkle, radiating health and warmth. Although to a lesser extent than a decade ago, management scrutinizes employees hair length, height, nails, teeth, and complexions. Long hair, bad breath, stained teeth, and pimples are anathema. Food containers also defy pollution; they are used only once. (In New York City, the fast-food chain Chock Full 0 Nuts foreshadowed this theme long ago and took it one step further by assuring customers that their food was never touched by human hands. ) Like participation in rituals, there are times when eating at McDonalds is not appropriate. A meal at McDonalds is usually confined to ordinary, everyday life. Although the restaurants are open virtually every day of the year, most Americans do not go there on Thanksgiving, Easter, Passover, or other religious and quasi-religious days. Our culture reserves holidays for family and friends. Although Americans neglect McDonalds on holidays, the chain reminds us through television that it still endures, that it will welcome us back once our holiday is over. The television presence of McDonalds is particularly obvious on holidays, whether it be through the McDonalds All-American Marching Band (two clean-cut high school students from each state) in a nationally televised Thanksgiving Day parade or through sponsorship of sports and family entertainment programs. Although such chains as Burger King, Burger Chef, and Arbys compete with McDonalds for the fast-food business, none rivals McDonalds success. The explanation reflects not just quality, service, cleanliness, and value but, more importantly, McDonalds advertising, which skillfully appeals to different audiences. Saturday morning television, for example, includes a steady dose of cartoons and other childrens shows sponsored by McDonalds. The commercials feature several McDonaldland fantasy characters, headed by the clown Ronald McDonald, and often stress the enduring aspects of McDonalds. In one, Ronald has a time machine that enables him to introduce hamburgers to the remote past and the distant future. Anyone who noticed the shot of the Woody Allen film Sleeper, which takes place 200 years hence, will be aware that the message of McDonalds as eternal has gotten across. Other childrens commercials gently portray the conflict between good (Ronald) and evil (Hamburglar). McDonaldlands bloblike Grimace is hooked on milkshakes, and Hamburglars addiction to simple burgers regularly culminates in his confinement to a patty wagon, as Ronald and Big Mac restore and preserve the social order. Pictures of McDonaldland appear on cookie boxes and, from time t o time, on durable plastic cups that are given away with the purchase of a large soft drink. According to Boas and Chain, a McDonaldland amusement park, comparable in scale to Disneyland, is planned for Las Vegas. Even more obvious are childrens chances to meet Ronald McDonald and other McDonaldland characters in the flesh. Actors portraying Ronald scatter their visits, usually on Saturdays, among McDonalds outlets throughout the country. A Ronald can even be rented for a birthday party or for Halloween trick or treating.

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McDonalds adult. advertising has a different,, but equally effect.ive, t.heme. In 1976, a fresh-faced, sincere young woman invited t.he viewer t.o t,ry breakfast-a new meal at. McDonalds-in a familiar set.ting. In &ill ot,her commercials, healthy, clean-living Americans gambol on ski slopes or in mountain pastures. The single t.heme running t.hroughout.all t.he adult. commercials is personalism. McDonalds, t.he commercials tell us, is not, just, a fast.-food restaurant.. It. is a warm, friendly place where you will be graciously welcomed. Here, you will feel at home wit,hyour family, and your children will not. get. int.0 trouble. The word you is emphasized-You deserve a break today; You, youre t,he one; We do it all for you. McDonalds commercials say bhat, you are not. simply a face in a crowd. At, McDonalds, you can find respit.e from a hectic and impersonal s0ciet.y- t.he break you deserve. Early in 1977, after a brief flirt.ation wit.h commercials t,hat, harped on the financial and gustat,ory benefit,s of eating at. McDonalds, t.he chain int,roduced one of its most curious incent,ives-t,he Big Mac att.ack. Like other ext,raordinary and irresist,ible food cravings, which people in many culhres at.t,ribut.e to demons or ot.her spirit.s,a Big Mac at.t.ackcould st.ike anyone at. any t.ime. In one commercial, passengers on a jet. forced t,he pilot, t.0 land at. t.he nearest. McDonalds. In others, a Big Mac at.t.ack had t.he power to give life t.o an inanimat.eobject., such as a suit of armor, or rest.ore a mummy t,o life. McDonalds advertising t.ypically de-emphasizes t,he fact t.hat,t,he chain is, aft.er all, a profit.-making organizat.ion. By st.ressingit.s program of community projects, some commercials present, McDonalds as a charit.able organizat.ion. During the Bicent.ennia1 year, commercials report.ed t,hat. McDonalds was giving 1,776 trees t.o every st.at.e in t.he union. Brochures at. out.lets echo t.he television message t.hat, t,hrough McDonalds, one can sponsor a carnival t,o aid victims of muscular dyst.rophy. In 1976 and 1977 McDonalds managers in Ann Arbor persuaded police officers armed wit.h met.al det.ectors t.o st.at.ion themselves at restaurants during Halloween t,o check candy and fruit. for hidden pins and razor blades. Free coffee was offered t.0 parent,s. In 1976, McDonalds sponsored a radio series document.ing t.he cont.ribut.ions Blacks have made to American hist,ory. McDonalds also sponsored such family t.elevision ent,ertainment.as t.he film The Sound of Music, complet,e wit,h a prefat.ory, sermonlike address by Ray Kroc. Commercials during t.he film showed Ronald McDonald picking up aft,er litterbugs and cont.inued with t.he theme, We do it. all for you. Ot.her commercials told us t.hat.McDonalds supports and works t.0 maint.ain t.he values of American family life-and went so far as t.0 suggest. a means of st.rengthening what most Americans conceive t.o be t.he weakest link in the nuclear family, that of father-child. Take a fat.her t.o lunch. kids were t.old. Participation in McDonalds rituals involves t.emporary subordinat.ion of individual differences in a social and c u h r a l col1ect.ivit.y. By eat.ing at. McDonalds, not only do we c0mmunicat.e t.hat. we are hungry, enjoy hamburgers, and have inexpensive tast.es but. also t.hat,we are willing t.0 adhere t.o a value syst.em and a series of behaviors dict.at.edby an exterior ent.it.y. In a land of tremendous et.hnic, social, economic, and religious diversky, we proclaim that we share somebhing wit,h millions of ot.her Americans.

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Sociologist.s,cult.ura1 ant.hropologist,s,and ot,hers have shown t.hat. social t.ies based on kinship, marriage, and c0mmunit.y are growing weaker in t.he cont,emporaryUnit.ed St,at,es.Fewer and fewer people participat,e in t.radit.ional organized religions. By joining sect.s, cult.s, and therapy sessions, Americans seek many of t.he securit.ies t.hat. formal religion gave t.o our ancestors. The increasing culbural, rat.her t.han just, economic, significance of McDonalds, foot.bal1, and similar inst.it.ut.ions is int.imat,ely linked t,ot.hesechanges. As indust.ria1societ,y shunt.s people around, church allegiance declines as a unifying moral force. Ot.her inst.it.ut.ions are also t.aking over the functions of formal religions. At t.he same t.ime, t.radit.ionallyorganized religions- Prot.estant.ism, Catholicism, and Judaism- are reorganizing t,hemselves along business lines. Wit.h such changes, the gap bet.ween t.he symbolic meaning of t.radit.iona1 religions and the realit.ies of modern life widens. Because of this, some socio1ogist.shave argued t.hat, t.he st.udy of modern religion must, merge wit.h t.he st.udy of mass cukure and mass communicat.ion. In this cont,ext.,McDonalds has become one of many new and powerful elements of American cukure that, provide common expect,at,ions,experience, and behavior-overriding region, class, formal religious affiliat,ion, polit.ica1 sentiments, gender, age, et,hnic group, sexual preference, and urban, suburban, or rural residence. By incorporat.ing-wit.t.ingly or unwitt.inglymany of t.heritual and symbolic aspect.sof religion, McDonalds has carved its own import.ant.niche in a changing society in which aut.omobiles are ubiquit.ous and where t.elevisionset.soutnumber t.oi1et.s.