SEWING THREAD

During the sewing process in a high-speed lock-stitch machine, the thread is subjected to friction from a number of guides, from the needle eye, from the fabric being sewn, from the bobbin case assembly, and from the bottom thread. At the same time, the thread is subjected to many stresses, all of which takes place very quickly & at high speeds. The heat generated due to such a severe working condition sometimes results in loss in thread strength and increased breakage in the needle thread during sewing. Therefore, sewing thread should be checked and tested for the following characteristics: (i) (ii) Construction: Yarn count, ply twist & twist balance, yarn tenacity & elongation %. Sewability: A good quality sewing thread should be able to produce uniform consistent stitches in the chosen material at highest m/c speed. Following properties can affect the performance. a) b) c) d) e) f) Imperfections: Thread should be free from slubs, knots and other defects. Finish: Finish is imparted so that the thread slips easily and smoothly through the eye of the sewing machine. The amount of finish must be consistent from package to package. Colour: colour should match to that of original or the standard sample. Density: Package density of sewing thread should be consistent between packages, otherwise, there would be problems of tension variation. Winding: Should be uniform, otherwise, may result in excessive thread breakages. Yardage: Length of sewing thread on each package should be at least the specified amount.

SEWING THREAD
Quality of stitches and seams is determined by the appropriateness of the selected stitch seam formation, use of correct needles, adjustment of machine, skill of operators and use of correct type of thread relative to the material being sewn. Sewing threads are special kinds of yarn. They are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly, to form a stitch efficiently, and to function while in a sewn product, without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful life of the product. Sewing threads are expected to form strong, smooth

and uniform seam. Colour, lusture and fineness are primary selection factors when thread is used for decorative purpose.

Thread Performance Thread performance is related to garment performance and sewability. Factors relating to performance are seam strength, abrasion, resistance, elasticity, chemical resistance, flammability and colour fastness. Thread used in garments must be durable enough to withstand the abrasion and needle heat generation in sewing, the physical and chemical forces of garment finishing and care and stretch and recovery during wear. Sewing problems related to thread include thread breakage, skipped an irregular stitches, fusing or melting and seam puckering. Sewability of Thread Sewability of thread is dependent on consistent loop formation and resistance to breakage. Loop formation refers to the thread loop formed by the needle after it passes through the fabric and begins to rise. A thread loop is necessary to form a stitch. Longitudinal uniformity of thread contributes to uniform strength and reduced friction as it passes through the stitch forming mechanisms. Uniformity minimizes thread breakage and the associated costs of rethreading machines, repairing stitching and producing inconsistent quality. Characteristics of Thread Factors that contribute to the aesthetics and performance of sewing threads include: (i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v) (vi) (vii) Fibre content Structure Twist Size Colour Finishes Put up (Type of package like spool, cone, cop etc.).

Consumption of Sewing Threads It is possible to estimate the quantity of thread which will be consumed in manufacturing a certain style of garment, either by measuring the seam lengths sewn in each stitch type and calculating the total amount from published ratios of

thread usage or by unpicking and measuring the thread used in a sample garment. The later is more accurate became it allows for fabric thickness and stitch density. Approximate net thread consumption ratio for typical seam sewn in one or two plies of fabric at 7 stitches per cm are shown in table.

Stitch Type

Thread Usage, In cm, per cm of Seam 2.5 4.0 5.5 14.0 18.0 20.0 32.0

301 Lock stitch 101 Chain-stitch 401 2-thread chain-stitch 504 3-Thread overedge stitch 512 4-Thread overedge (401-504) Safety stitch 600 Flatlock

ZIPPERS
Zippers should be checked for following: a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) Dimensions: Check the correct width of the tape Top & bottom stops should be fastened securely. Zipper tape should be uniform in colour if that is important Zipper should not cause wrinkling or puckering after it is sewn into garment. Can a zipper be washed and/or dry-cleaned? Will it fade? Will the slide deform under pressing or ironing? Check the number of pounds it take to pull open the zipper (sideways) Pull tab should be affixed firmly to the slider body. Sliver should ride freely but must not be so free that it is loose on the chain. Check also to be sure the slider locks securely.

BUTTONS & BUCKLES

Button : Buttons should have large, clear sew holes that are free from flash & will not cut the thread. Holes must be located properly in relation to the edge of the button. Buttons should be of uniform thickness. The colour or shade of the buttons should be within a certain visual tolerance and button should be able to withstand laundering, dry cleaning & pressing without any change such as cracks, melting of surface, change in colour etc.