1. What scale measures both the acidity and alkalinity of a substance? a. Hydrogen. b. pH. c. Logarithm. d. Anion. 2.

Why is soft water preferable to hard water when shampooing? a. It contains more minerals, so shampoo lathers easier. b. It is less acidic. c. It contains fewer minerals, so shampoo lathers easier. d. Its nutrients are beneficial for the hair. 3. When cutting hair, what type of line will create fullness? a. Vertical line. b. Diagonal line. c. Staggered line. d. Horizontal line. 4. Which of the following techniques is used for a basic graduated haircut? a. Zero-elevation. b. Side cutting. c. Elevation. d. Shears over comb. 5. If your client is sensitive to heat, what type of perm wave may be most appropriate? a. Acid waves. b. Alkaline waves. c. Exothermic waves. d. Endothermic waves.

Answer Key
1. B: pH (short for potential for hydrogen ion concentration) measures both the acidity and the alkalinity of substances. This measurement is the measure of hydrogen in a substance. It is important for a stylist to understand pH, because the pH level of a shampoo will affect different types of hair differently. The pH level ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral, and if a substance is more acidic, its pH will be less than 7. A substance that is more alkaline will have a pH of greater than 7. The pH scale is a logarithmic scale, which means that an increase of 1 on the pH scale indicates a tenfold increase in alkalinity or decrease in acidity; an increase of 2 is a hundredfold change. The average hair and skin have a pH of around 5. 2. C: Soft water is preferable to hard water for shampooing because soft water has fewer minerals and allows the shampoo to lather easier. Soft water can be either rainwater or water that has been chemically treated. Hard water typically comes from wells, and the amount of minerals in hard water does not allow shampoo to lather. In addition to affecting the ability of shampoo to lather, the type of water can also affect the results of a color treatment. If a salon has a hard water source, this water should be treated to soften it in order to provide clients with the best service.

3. B: A diagonal line will create a fuller look when cutting hair. This type of line also helps to blend varying layers of hair. There are varying degrees of a diagonal line, but it will be somewhere in between the vertical and horizontal. Vertical lines are used to create layers in the hair and are cut in an up-and-down direction. Horizontal lines are used to cut the hair to one even length and will be parallel to the floor. Depending on the clients' needs, a haircut may use one or a combination of these different types of lines. 4. C: The technique used for a basic graduated haircut is elevation. For typical graduated hairstyles, the elevation should be at a 45 degree angle, which will give the hair a full appearance as the hair is stacked. By changing the degree of elevation, various styles of the graduated hair cut can be achieved. For example, a layered style results when using an elevation of 90 degrees. While the basic graduated style has a weighted look, the layered style is less weighted as the ends of each layer are further apart. A long layered cut is achieved with a 180 degree elevation. The type of hair cut and degree of elevation used will depend on the client's hair and desired look. 5. B: Alkaline waves may be the most appropriate choice to use with a client that is sensitive to heat, because this type of wave does not rely on a heat treatment. Also called cold waves, alkaline waves were developed in 1941 and have a pH of 9.0 to 9.6. Rather than using heat to process the wave, these waves use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) and can be processed at room temperature. This type of wave application typically takes 20 minute to process and is a good choice for individuals with thick or coarse hair.