==============Introduction==============

Fabric representation methods

The woven fabric is formed by interlacement of warp and weft yarn. There are two ways of interlacement. 1. Warp yarn over weft yarn

this is a representation of warp over weft yarn X This is how warp over weft is represented in a fabric design paper

2. Weft yarn over warp yarn

this is a representation of weft over warp yarn

This is how weft over warp is represented in a fabric design paper

Parts of a complete Design of woven fabric

Woven Fabric design is represented by the following plans. 1. Weave Plan 2. Drafting Plan 3. Lifting Plan 4. Denting Plan

1. Weave Plan
The weave plan is the representation of the interlacement of warp and weft yarn in the fabric. It shows how the warp and weft yarns need to be interlaced with each other to produce the design in the fabric.

This is a representation of design of a plain weave 1. the vertical line (column) represents warp yarn 2. the horizontal line (row) represent weft yarn 3. represents repeat unit 4. X represents warp over weft 5. Empty box represents weft over warp 6. # represents starting point

2. Drafting Plan
The process of drawing the warp yarn through the eye of heald frames according to design is called drafting, and the plan which indicates how drafting needs to be done is called drafting plan. The drafting plans shows the number of heald frames required and which warp yarn should pass through which heald frame to produce the design.

Methods of representing drafting plan

1. By ruling line: here horizontal lines represent the heald frames and vertical lines with arrow head represent the warp yarn. The intersection point is the position of the warp yarn in heald frame

2. By Design Paper:

Above is a representation of drafting plan by design paper 1. The vertical lines (columns) represents warp yarn 2. The horizontal lines (rows) represent a heald shaft 3. The x shows the heald shaft occupied by the warp yarn (here warp yarn 1 occupies heald shaft 1; warp yarn 2 occupies heald shaft 2 and so on)

3. By numbering: as shown below, here the heald frame number is written below the warp yarn under a weave plan.

Different systems of drafting

1. Straight Draft:
It is the simplest form of draft system where individual warp yarn in a repeat is place in individual heald frame. Number of heald frame required is equal to the number of warp yarn in the repeat. Mostly used in twill design

2. Skip Draft This draft is use when EPI is high. This draft reduces the friction between the yarns.

Number of heald frames used is two times the number of warp yarn in a repeat.

3. Pointed Draft This draft is used to make fabric with symmetry design e.g. zig zag, twill, diamond. This draft is used when the repeat size is too large. In this draft system a straight draft is returned in the opposite direction after a certain point. The number of heald frames used is equal to half the number of warp yarn in a repeat.

Above three is the most common drafting system. Other drafting systems are as follows 4. Broken draft

5. Divided draft 6. Grouped draft 7. Combined draft 8. Curved draft 9. Sateen draft 10. Bed fort cord draft

3. Lifting Plan
Lifting Plan defines the selection of heald frames to be lifted or lowered on each successive insertion of weft yarn. The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

4. Denting Plan
The process of inserting warp yarn through red is called denting and the plan that indicate the order in which denting is done is called denting plan. Usually two yarns are passed through each dent.

Example of Complete Woven Fabric Design

Below is an Example of complete design of woven fabric

Basic Structure of Woven Fabric

Woven Fabric has three basic structures 1. Plain Weave 2. Twill Weave 3. Sateen / Satin Weave

==============Plain Weave==============
A weave in which there are 2 ends and 2 picks in a repeat is called a plain weave. It is also known as calico or Tobby weave.

Features of Plain Weave

The weave is the simplest form of weave It has the smallest repeat 2x2 Number of interlacement is large and so structure is stable Minimum 2 heald frames are required to form the weave.

Figure: Plain Weave Design

Classification of Plain Weave

The plain weave are classified into three types 1. Warp face: when the EPI is more than PPI it is called warp face. Or when warp yarn count is more than weft yarn count then the plain weave is called warp face plain weave.

2. Weft face: when the PPI is more than EPI it is called weft face. Or when warp yarn count is less than weft yarn count then the plain weave is called weft face plain weave. 3. Balanced: when the EPI is equal to PPI it is called balanced plain weave. Or when warp yarn count is equal to weft yarn count then the plain weave is called balanced plain weave.

Derivatives of Plain Weave

==============Rib Weave==============
The rib weave are of two types 1. Warp Rib 2. Weft Rib

Warp Rib

In warp rib The rib cord effect is in warp direction The weft yarn are found in bundles (float of weft yarn) The weave formula where X = number of warp up These are used in grosgrain cloth, mattress cloth etc.

Weft Rib
In weft rib The rib cord effect is in weft direction The warp yarn are found in bundles (float of warp yarn)

The weave formula weft up in a repeat These are used in hair cords, blankets etc.

where X = number of warp up and Y = number of

==============Matt Weave==============
Matt weaves are produced by extending plain weave in both vertical and horizontal direction.

The smallest matt weave is matt. 2 ends and 2 picks act in the same manner in the smallest matt The tear strength of matt weave is very high. Due to the great number of floats the surface of matt weave fabric is very smooth.

Matt weaves are of four types 1. Regular matt 2. Irregular matt 3. Stitch matt 4. Fancy matt

==============Seer Sucker==============
Seer sucker fabric is made with a loom having two warp beams. The top warp beam warp yarns are at low tension and the bottom warp beam warp yarns at high tension. So due to this arrangement some parts of the fabric has wrinkled appearance.This Features causes the fabric to be mostly held away from the skin when worn, facilitating heat dissipation and air circulation. So pessing is not necessary. Common items of clothing made from seer sucker are suit, shorts, shirts and robes.

==============Twill Weave==============
The order of interlacement which produces diagonal lines of either warp or weft floats is called twill weave.

Features of twill weave

In twill weave a diagonal line will be seen in the fabric The twill lines will be formed on both sides of the fabric The smallest possible twill is 3x3 Straight draft is used for making twill weave Twill weave fabric has closer setting, greater weight and good draping properties. Twill weave is used in denim jeans cardigan etc.

Classification of twill weave

Classification according to twill line 1. S twill or left hand twill: the twill line runs from top left to bottom right 2. Z twill or right hand twill: the twill line runs from bottom let to top right. Classification according to face yarn 1. Warp face: in this more warp yarn will be seen 2. Weft face: in this more weft yarn will be seen. 3. Balanced: in this equal number of warp and weft yarn will be seen.

Classification according to nature of twill line

Derivatives of twill weave

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Herringbone twill Zig Zag or pointed or wavy twill Diamond Diaper Elongated twill Shaded twill Curved twill

============Herringbone Twill============
Features of herringbone twill

In herringbone twill the twill direction and yarn float condition reverses after base twill. Straight draft or broken draft is used to make the weave. Horizontal and vertical stripe effect is produced in herringbone twill. It is used in suits, coats, ornamented designs etc.

============Zig Zag Twill============

Features of Zig Zag twill

The twill direction reverses after the base twill The number of repeats is twice the number of base twill Pointed draft is used to make zig zag twill It is used to make upholstery, wall covering, screen, ornamented design etc.

=============== Diamond ===============

Features of Diamond weave
Diamond weave is formed by a combination of (1) drafting plan of horizontal weave and (2) lifting plan of vertical weave Number of warp yarn and weft yarn in a repeat is double the base weave. The diamond twill has a pointed draft. It can be divided into 4 equal parts. Diamonds form symmetry across their vertical axis and horizontal axis. It is used to make towel, bed cover, table cloth, pillow cover.

=============== Diaper ===============

Features of Diaper weave
The diaper is formed on the basis of herringbone weave. Broken draft is used to make this weave. It can be divided into two equal parts diagonally. It is symmetrical about its diagonal axis. Number of warp yarn and weft yarn in a repeat is double the base weave. It is used to make towel, bed cloth, and pillow cover.

============= Elongated twill ============

Elongated twill has more than 1 rate of advancement either outwards or upwards (that is more than 1 step). The twill angle of elongated twill can be calculated in the following way

Number of steps can be either 2 or 3. The angle of twill is either more or less than 45o

============= Shaded twill ============

============= Satin / Sateen ============

Features of Satin / Sateen weave
The surface of the fabric is smooth and lustrous. Smoothness can be increased by increasing EPI and decreasing the yarn twist. The number of interlacement in a repeat is equal to the number of warp yarn in the repeat in a sateen weave. No twill line is visible. The fabric has long floats and is comparatively loose. Straight draft or sateen draft is used to make the satin weave.

The formula the weave is written as follows

Satin/sateen weave is used in case of Jacquard design. It is used to make multiply fabric. It is used to make coats, suits, swimsuits, curtains, labels, tags etc.

Move Number: in case of satin/sateen weave it is the maximum distance between the two adjacent interlacement points. The move number Cannot be 1 Cannot be the number of warp yarn in a repeat Cannot be 1 minus number of warp yarn in a repeat Cannot have a common factor with the weave number (number of warp yarn in a repeat)

Regular Satin/sateen: satin/sateen weave having a particular move number is called regular satin/sateen weave. E.g. 5 end satin/sateen, 8 end satin/sateen, etc. Irregular Satin/sateen: satin/sateen weave having no move number is called irregular satin/sateen weave. E.g. 6 end satin/sateen, 4 end satin/sateen, etc.

============= Fancy Weave =============

Some examples of fancy weaves are as follows 1. Ordinary Honey Comb 2. Brighton Honey Comb 3. Hucka-Back Weave 4. Mock Leno or Imitation Gauge 5. Sponge Weave 6. Bed-Ford Cord

========= Ordinary Honey comb ==========

Features of ordinary honey comb
The surface of ordinary honey comb is rough The fabric is reversible fabric Compared to Brighton honey comb the construction is simple. Pointed draft is used to make this weave The number of picks and ends in a repeat may or may not be equal The smallest possible repeat is 6x4 It is used to make hand towels, glass cloth, bath mat, cellular blankets, etc.

========= Brighton Honey comb ==========

Features of Brighton honey comb
The surface of Brighton honey comb is rough The fabric is reversible fabric Compared to Brighton honey comb the construction is complex. The number of picks and ends in a repeat are equal The smallest possible repeat is 8x8 It is used to make hand towels, glass cloth, brocades, roller towels, crockery towels, etc.

========== Hucka-Back Weave ===========

Features of Hucka-Back Weave
The surface of hucka-back weave is rough The stiffness of the fabric is good. The repeat size is odd number multiple of 2 It can be divided into two equal parts diagonally. Due to the long floats it has good water absorbency. It is used to make towels, glass cloth, table linen, dress wear, shirting, etc.

====== Mock Leno or Imitation Gauge ======

Features of Mock Leno or Imitation gauge
Mock leno can be divided into two equal parts diagonally. Smallest repeat size is 6x6 The repeat size is even number. E.g. 8x8, 10x10 etc. The fabric surface has holes like in a net. It is used to make curtains, embroidery cloth, brocades, blouses, towel, table linen, etc. Due to the long floats it has good water absorbency.

============ Sponge Weave =============

Construction of Sponge weaves
1. First using the following formula the repeat size is found out.

2. Then we have to draw a sateen weave (for example if repeat is 10x10 then we have to draw 10-end sateen. 3. After that using the warp up as center, we have to draw diamond (for example if the repeat is 10x10 and float size is 3, we have to draw 10 diamonds with float size 3) Sponge weave are used to make medical wipes and towels.

============ Bed-Ford Cord =============

Features of Bed ford cord
The cord effect is in warp direction There is a sunken line between two cords in the warp direction. The surface of bed for cord fabric is rough The weave has even number of ends in a repeat. The number of picks in a repeat is four In one repeat two or more cords are formed. These are warp face cloth It is used to make ladies wear, sportswear, worsted trousers, ornamental trimmings, soft furnishing,etc.

Warded Yarn Quality

The waded yarn has to be coarse, low twisted and cheap

Construction of Bed ford cord

1. First the cutting ends are given plain weave 2. Then two diagonal sections are made all warp up 3. Then the remaining two diagonal section are given plain weave ** In case of waded yarn, the plain weave section should have all weft up over the warded yarn.

======== Multiply (Double) Fabric ========

The fabric which contains two fabrics one over the other and stitched together is called multiply fabric. In this fabric there are two sets of warp yarn; one set face warp and the other set is back warp yarn. Also there are two sets of weft yarn; one set is face weft and the set is back weft yarn.

Classification of Multiply fabric

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Self-stitch double cloth Center stitch double cloth Double cloth stitched by thread inter change Double cloth stitched by cloth interchange. Alternate single and double ply construction

Construction of Multiply fabric

======== Weave and Colour Effect ========

Weave and colour effect is the form or pattern of two or more than two colours produced by weave and colour combination.

Types of weave and colour effect

1. 2. 3. 4. Simple warping and simple wefting Simple warping and compound wefting Compound warping and simple wefting Compound warping and compound wefting

Here simple means: 1 black 1white, or 2 red 2 green, simple repeats Compound Means: 1 black 2 white 3 red 1 black, 1 black 1 red 3 blue, complicated combination

Construction of Weave and colour effect

1. 2. 3. 4. First plain or twill (simple) weave is done Then the warping order and wefting order is done Then fill dark yarn colour in warp direction Then fill dark yarn colour in weft direction

Some Weave and colour effect