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Testing Deep Cycle Batteries Specific Gravity With a Hydrometer

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LinkBack 01-14-2009, 08:09 PM

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Display Modes #1 ( permalink) Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: All over. Posts: 5,548

Sully
Only 4000 Hours To Go Testing Deep Cycle Batteries Specific Gravity With a Hydrometer

Introduction Testing open circuit voltage is not a proper (or convenient) way to understand the health of your batteries. Using a hydrometer to test for specific gravity can be a quick and easy way to assess the state of charge, as well as the health of your deep cycle battery bank. In this post, we'll go over the method of using a hydrometer to test the specific gravity of marine deep cycle batteries of the flooded type. This test is also useful if you suspect a single bad battery in your bank or a bad cell in a single battery. Step By Step - Taking Specific Gravity Readings 1. 2. 3. 4. Start by taking the load off your batteries momentarily. Do not perform this test immediately after adding distilled water to your batteries. Start by filling up, then draining out the hydrometer a few times. This stirrs up the electrolyte and ensures an accurate reading. Fill the hydrometer with enough electrolyte to float the indicator. Jot down your specific gravity reading and repeat for the rest of the cells in each battery. A 12V marine deep cycle battery has 6 cells. A 6V golf cart battery used in series-parallel has 3 cells. Each cell produces roughly 2 volts.

Normalize Your Readings Now, we have a set of readings for all cells in your battery bank. The appropriate readings vary based on the temperature of the battery. Take (or estimate) the temperature of your bank and do the following: Add .004 to the reading for every 10 Degrees F above 80 degrees. Subtract .004 from the reading for every 10 Degrees F below 80 degrees. Compare to The Manufacturer's Readings A typical deep cycle battery might have temperature normalized specific gravity readings as follows: 100% Charged = 1.277 90% Charged = 1.258 80% Charged = 1.238 70% Charged = 1.217 60% Charged = 1.195 50% Charged = 1.172 We are stopping at 50% charged because if you are discharging your batteries further than this, you are damaging them. They should never be discharged further than 50%. NOTE: Use your battery manufacturer's specific gravity chart. If your manufacturer does not have one, use the above chart as an approximation. What Does It All Mean? If you get a temperature normalized reading within the range above, which uses Trojan Batteries as an example brand, you are accurately reading the actual state of charge of your battery. If you get something much lower, you are possibly: In a state of extreme discharge Testing a very old battery, nearing the end of its useful life Testing a damaged battery (due to extreme discharge) Testing a battery that has lost some electrolyte In need of an equalization charge (see your battery charger manual for instructions on how to perform one) If only one cell gives you a low reading, while the other cells in the same battery give you normal readings, this is an indication of a bad cell in your battery. Sully

08-28-2010, 06:55 PM

#2 ( permalink) Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kemah, Tx. Posts: 5,225

RTB
Refitting $$$!

You titled this for deep cycle batteries, but I assume it applies to any flooded battery (dual purpose or starting)? I just put 3 new batteries on the boat, and would like to keep them properly maintained and checked periodically.

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06/10/2012 21:23

Testing Deep Cycle Batteries Specific Gravity With a Hydrometer - Boating, Sailing and Cruising ...

http://cruising.stuffiminto.com/electrical-system/136-testing-deep-cycle-batteries-specific-gravity...

Ralph __________________ "Everybody has to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer." --W.C. Fields Hunter 36 s/v FUGUE Kemah, Tx.

08-28-2010, 07:32 PM

#3 ( permalink) Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: All over. Posts: 5,548

Sully
Only 4000 Hours To Go

Quote:

Originally Posted by RTB You titled this for deep cycle batteries, but I assume it applies to any flooded battery (dual purpose or starting)? I just put 3 new batteries on the boat, and would like to keep them properly maintained and checked periodically. Ralph

My best advice, Ralph, would be to pick up a Link Lite battery monitor:

link lite battery monitor - Google Product Search These battery monitors will take the guesswork out of maintaining your house bank. Your starting battery should never be used at all for house loads and kept isolated from the house bank, so as not to discharge it. Kept like that, it will almost *never* let you down for starting the engine. I have been using these Link battery monitors since the early 2000's when they were called Link 10's. I've had them on every boat (bought new ones for each boat) and I have one in the RV I built. There is no substitute for these monitors. Using them, I've never had a battery bank go dead before I sold the boat it was on! You can use the hydrometer like in this thread, but it is a lot easier (safer and cleaner) to just get a battery monitor.

08-28-2010, 09:00 PM

#4 ( permalink) Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kemah, Tx. Posts: 5,225

RTB
Refitting $$$!

Thank you for that recommendation. I had previously read that you liked the monitor. Looks like Xantrex makes good stuff. __________________ "Everybody has to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer." --W.C. Fields Hunter 36 s/v FUGUE Kemah, Tx.

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06/10/2012 21:23