Jenzen cabinets

Copyright 2011 Troels Gravesen FRONT PANELS CABINET DAMPING DRAWINGS CABINET DAMPING

Click image to view large SEAS ER cabinet

Download TL cabinet drawing for: Jenzen SEAS ER, Jenzen NEXT, Jenzen Accu, Jenzen Illuminator, Jenzen-D mkII

Sony snapshots from the workshop

Left: Two bars are needed for initial gluing. Middle: Take one side, top and botton and assemble with tape. Right: Turn around.

Left: Fold top and bottom. Middle: Checking out internal panels for marking. Right: Use bisquits or similar to keep internal panels in correct position.

Left: Preliminary damping needed before gluing, here rear panel. Middle: I use Superfix and staples. Right: damping of internal panel.

Left: Damping material in place in rear, bottom and internal panels. Middle: Damping on top panel. Right: View from top.

Left: All preliminary damping in place. Middle: I start with applying the strap to keep all in place. Next four clamps secure the rear panel. Right: All straps and clamps in place. PVA glue used throughout. For gluing the bass cabs I used one strap, 4 x 40 cm clamps, 4 x 60 cm clamps and 4 x 80 cm clamps.

Both bass cabs glued and ready for sanding.

Left: Mid cab seen from rear without rear panel. Middle: Mid cabs mounted with internal panels. Right: Fillets has been added to side panels of bass cabs as front panels are going to be detachable. These are test cabs for a range Jenzen speakers and obviously you don't have to add fillets to your speakers.

Soon ready for additional damping material, final sanding, lacquer and front panels. These mid cabs are heavy due to double side panels and internal panels! I added one 4 mm bitumen pad to the top panel of the MT cabinet. Not necessary, but further adds to dampen panel vibration. You may add a vertical brace to the upper mid cab if you want to do even better.

Jenzen front panels

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For front panels I had two sheets of 22 mm MDF and two sheets of 19 mm MDF cut to 32.5 x 122 cm at the local home diy market. I started rounting for all drivers as can be seen from photos. The front sub panel had holes of 28 and 19 cm diameter for bass and mid respectively. The panels were then glued together. After drying the bass panels were cut to 320 x 750 mm to fit the bass cabinet and sides and top were chamfered according to dimensions given on drawing. Tweeter/mid panels were cut to 320 x 380 mm to fit MT cabs.

Disregards thin panel applyed to mid outer panel. This was later changed.

Holes for middriver was chamfered as seen above to the left. No need to chamfer hole for bass driver due to overall diameter. If you don't have 45 router bits for chamfering, make a stepped expansion of the mid driver hole.
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Left: panels here cut up /disregard mid outer panel; was later changed for ER18 drivers. Right: Checking drivers for fitting rebates. Always make test routings to make as good as possible fit to drivers' diameter.

Base made from residues, 23 + 15 mm Baltic birch. Only 23 mm Baltic birch used for rear panel to allow terminals. Crossover is going to be placed here at speaker foot.

Between bass cab and mid cab these terminal blocks will be used. These are actually the same used by Vandersteen. Found on eBay from Taiwan.

More felt damping before adding front panels

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Bass cabs: In addition to the felt material seen here, two sheets of 25 mm polyester damping is added. View drawing at bottom of page for complete damping.

Mid cabs: Left: seen from rear. Right: Seen from front. View drawing for further instruction on complete damping.

First time set-up! Still raw MDF finish. Believe me, I was as exited as the first time I set up a speaker - many, many speakers ago.. Apart from the bass TL needing more damping material, the sound was awesome!

Final damping of mid and bass cabinets

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