The Complete Guide To Custom Shelves & Built-Ins

CUSTOM SHELVES &
-
Build Custom Add-ons to
Create a One-of-a-Kind Home
by Theresa Coleman
Creative Publishing
rnemational
CHANHASSEN, MINNESOTA
www.crcativepub.com
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The Publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to propenty or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for al l do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to
your project.
Copyright 2007
Creative Publishing international, Inc.
18705 Lake Drive East
Chanhassen, Minnesota 55317
1-800-328-3895
'WWVoJ.creativepub.com
All rights reserved
Printed at R.R. Donnelley
10987654321
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-publication Data
Coleman, Theresa.
The complete gui de to custom shelves & built-ins: build custom add-ons to
create a one-of-a-kind home / by Theresa Coleman.
p,em.
At head of ti tle: Black & Decker.
Summary: "More than 30 step-by-step projects to help homeowners
achieve custom built-ins that add function and style to any home
decor"-- Provided by publisher.
Includes index.
ISBN-13: 978-' -58923-303-4 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-303-4 (SoftCQver)
1. Built-in furniture. 2. Cabinetwork. 3. Shelving (Furniture) I.
Title. II. Title: Black & Decker the complete guide to shelves &
built-ins.
TI197.5.8SC592007
684.1' 6--dc22
2007010500
The Complete Guide to Custom Shelves and Built-Ins
President/CEO: Ken Fund
VP for Sales & Marketing: Peter Ackroyd
Home Improvement Group
Publisher: Bryan Trandem
Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
Senior Editor Mark Johanson
Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer
Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Mary Rohl
Director of Photography: Tim Himsel
Lead Photographer: Steve Galvin
Photo Coordinators: Julie Caruso, Joanne Wawra
Shop Managers.' Randy Austin, Bryan McClain
Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls
Page Layout Artist: Danlelle Smith
Photographer: Joel Schnell
Shop Help: Dan Anderson, Glenn Austin,
Tami Helmer, John webb
Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
Contents
The Complete Guide to
Custom Shelves & Built-Ins
Introduction . . .. .... .. ... . 4
Installing a Post-form countertop .. . . 64
portfolio of Built1n
Building a Custom Laminate
& Shelving projects .... . . .. ..... 7
Countertop . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. 66
Creating wood Countertop Edges .. . . 74
Techniques & Design . ... . . 18
Tools & Material s ..... . .. . ...... .. 20
Built-In Projects . ........ . 78
Window Seat . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. 80
Planning a Project ....... .. . . . .... 30
Bed surround ... . ..... . ....... . . 88
Jobsite Preparation . . . . . .. . . .. . . . . 34
Loft Bed . . . .. . .. . . . . .... . . . . . . .. 94
proiect Safety ............ . . . . .... 3S
country Diner . . .. . . .. .... . . .. . . . 102
Cutting & Fitting Joints . . . .. . . .. . . .. 36
wall Niche ........... . ........ 11 2
Power Miter Saw Techniques . .. . . .. 37
Room Divider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Establishing Level, Plumb & square ... 44
Laundry Center. . . .. .. . . . . . 128
Adding Doors . . .. . . . . . . .. . . .. . . .. 46
Towel Tower .. . .. . . .. . . . . . . 136
Basic Drawers . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
understairs project .. 142
preparing for the Finish ............ 50
Hobby Center ... . ..... . . . . 150
Install ing Cabinets . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. S4
Bath Cabinet. . . .. . . .. .. . . . . .. . . . 1 S6
Creating a Kitchen Island . . ... 60
Kneewall Cabinet . . ........ 162
Making Countertops . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. 62 Club Bar . . . .. . .. . . .. .... . . .. . . . 168
Shelving Projects . .. ... . . 180
Shelving Basics ......... . ........ 182
Modular Shelving ......... . . ..... 184
Installing Wire Shelving . . . . . 186
Formal Bookcase . . . .. . . .. .... . . . 188
Utility Shelves . . .. . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . 194
Cube Shelves . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . . . . . 198
Closet Shelves . .. . . .... . . .. .. . . . 204
Joist Shelving . . .. . . .. . . .. .... . . . 206
Bin & Shelving Unit. . . . . . .... . . . . . 210
Trimwork Wall Shelves . . . . . . 214
Box Beam Shelves . . .. . . .. . . .. . . . 222
Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves . . . . . . 228
Resources .. .... ... .. . .. 234
Credits . ........... . .. . 235
Metric Conversions . ... .. 236
Index . . ........ ...... . 237
I
Introduction
G
e t ready to Aex your carpentry and
improve your home wit h a little help from stock
and cabinets.
Bui lt-ins arc no longer just for kitchens . With
the range of availabl e cabi net sizes, finishes, and
organization accessories avai lable in stock and semi-
stock styles, combini ng cabinets and standard s heet
goods to create c ustom looks for your favorite roo ms is
a reali stic option to buying the pre- made s helves cllld
hutches that everyone else in your neighborhood owns.
We designed the one-of-a-kind projects in t hi s
Complete Guide to live up to the essence of the
t itle- "complete"- wit hout making the projects too
tough for weeke nd DlYe rs. The result : A var iety of fun
projects for va ri ous ski ll levels v,lith a range of design
styles for rooms all over your hOLise.
If you like the look of sleek urban style, chec k out
T he C lub Bar (page 168) . Its s lick modular pa lette
is a total atte ntion grabber that you might fi nd in an
avant-garde city hotel. T he classically appointed Formal
Bookcase (page 188), on the ot her hand, is DIY-fri endly
project inspi red by traditi ona l hardwood libraries.
Chasing the brass ring of good design inspired
more than j ust a design ste\'v. It begged
us to be mindful of the pe rmanence of these proj ects .
Sure, the projects are fun to c rea te, but we took the
nature of a serious ly. \A/hen you create a
or add shelving, it becomes part of you r home,
part of your day-to-day reality- whet her your bui lt- in
is used to store laundry detergent, display c heris hed
meme ntos, or curl up with <1 f<1vorite book.
We c rafted projects that YOLI can build. projects
wit h rock-sol id, real-vwrl d assembl y and fabrication
techniques. And, si nce many of the designs incl ude
cabine ts, the ca rpe ntry skill s needed a ren' t
5
furniture gr<:lde. Personall y, I like to think of thi s guide
CI S t he carpentry equivalent of using a cake mix: You
still have to add a fe\\' of your ovm ingredients, but you
get to skip a few steps \,vith the p r e ~ m a d e mix.
While yo u need the proper tools to combine all
of the pieces, you don't need a professional workshop,
<:IS many of them combine pre-made cabinets v" ith on-
site carpent'Y that ra nges from simpl e to intermediate
skill levels.
Some projects call for some fancy fabri cation like
the Country Diner (page 102) or the Club Bar. Others ,
li ke the \-lobby Center (page 150), Laundry Center
(page 128), and Window Seat (page 80) are tied
togethe r with un ique site-bui lt details that integrate
the built -in into your space.
For a different mix of skills needed, c heck out
the Trim Molding Shelves (page 214) and the Loft Bed
(page 94). Eac h of t hese projects combines rough and
fini sh ca rpe nt 'Y to create two totally custom built -ins.
6 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU1LT-1NS
You' ll <:Ilso Ilnd super shelves, fu n furn iture, and
spacious stor<:l ge projects for kid's rooms, bathrooms,
and utility spaces that can meet your needs today and
grow \,vith you and your family.
In the e nd, we hope that we've created a book that
I ives up to its name- not so much on these pages, but
in your home and in your life.
If you aren't inspired to c reate that one-of-a-kind
perfect -fit look for your house after flipping through
the des igns \,ve've included in the Complete Guide
to Shelves & Built-Ins, you arc miss ing out on an
opportunity for maximizing the "\t\1ow" from yo ur
friends and fami ly.
\!Ve hope you have as much fun building these
projects as we did building t hi s book.
Theresa Coleman
I Portfolio of Built-In & Shelving Projects
Built-ins add character and charm
to any space. While built-ins can be
purely functional, they can also be
decorative (as shown to the left) or
combine functionality with a showcase
element (as shown above). The type of
built-in that works best for you and your
home depends on your style and how
you enJoy showing off prized treasures.
PortJolio of Rlli/t-11l & SIJeI!lillg Projects 7
~
~ , . J
-
Built-ins are more than just simple
shelves and wall cabinets. Whether
you are building a cozy kitchen nook
(left), an underbed platform (below) or
a storage cabinet that custom-fits your
bathroom floorplan (right)' unique little
extras like drawers and cubbies in one-
of-a-kind built-in furniture can maximize
storage options for every type of space.
Bookshelves are one of the most
popular types of built-in projects.
Bookshelves don't have to just be
showcased prominently in a formal
living room, they also fi t perfectly- and
dramatically maximize smaller homes'
storage potential- along hallways
(opposite page). Built-in storage also
can act as a visual room divider in larger
spaces, creating the opportunity to display
keepsakes that can be viewed from both
rooms, and giving homeowners additional
nooks to stow other items away (left).
Even the smallest, simplest of shelves
can greatly increase the amount of usable
space (below) and add visual impact.
Built-in projects aren't just for
traditionalists. In the built-ins category
you will fi nd countless perfect projects and
stock products that match the modern
style of many of today's homes. A uniquely
shaped room can benefit from a custom
built-in couch that maximizes the space
inside the frame. Drawers keep throw
blankets handy for colder days, and games
ready for guests. A kitchen with a view is
a perfect spot to integrate an eating area
without interrupting the floorplan or flow
of the space. And for the home office,
there are many cabinets that offer semi-
stock accessories, from file drawers and
CD organizers to pull-out writing trays and
office supply organization trays (right).
The bathroom (opposite page) is
a smaller space in most homes, and
really benefits from some custom built-in
organization. Optimizing the space wi th
a built-in cabinet outfitted wi th upgraded
organization accessories can help keep
all of those little bottles and grooming
supplies much more easily managed.
Sports equipment, shoes, and coats
are typically among the top clutter culprits
in most houses. By creating a coat cubby
or locker-room-styled organization (below)
near the most-used entryway, you'll
create a greater chance that those items
might be put away. For kids' rooms, take
advantage of the whimsy of color and
style when decorating custom built-ins,
and take the opportunity to maximize the
storage possibilities (left).
--
-
Awkward spaces, nooks and crannies
don't offer much utility to the homeowner,
but when improved with a clever built-in
or shelving project, the space can become
a real asset for your home. Understairs
areas are prime examples of unused
space that can be exploited with a built-in,
as wi th this understairs wine rack (right).
If your idea of built-ins is simply
cabinet installations in a kitchen or a
bathroom, there are many styles, finishes,
and colors available. Cabinet-makers are
offering detailing options- moldings, wine
racks, spice racks, and pull-out trays, for
example- that help you create the exact
look and performance you desire (below).
r
[J
I Tools & Materials
B
uilding she lves and built -ins is a chall e ngi ng
job thal requires patience, attent ion to detail ,
and the ri ght tool for each task. \rVithout these basic
require ments, YOll arc sett ing yourself lip for pote nti al
failure and the result wi ll suffer.
Start off ri ght by us ing hi gh-quality tools. Good
tools la st longer and arc ge ne rall y morc acc urate t han
less expensive versions.
Many people buy tools only as they a re needed
to avoid purc hases they will not use. Thi s rati onale
should only apply to power tools and hi gher- pri ced
specialty items. A hi gh-quality bas ic tool set is
important for every dO- it-yourselfer to have on ha nd.
DOing so avoids improper tool usage and ma kes your
job easier, with improved results.
The hand tools you will need for most fin ish
carpentry jobs can be broken down into two types:
layout tool s and construction tools. It is common for
most people to own construction tools, but to lack
necessa ry layo ut tools for basic carpent!)' jobs.
Purc hase the highes t-qual ity layout tools yo u
ca n afford. They are crucial fo r hdping
you avoid costly meas uring and
Combination
square
marking mi stakes.
20 THE COMPLETE CUIf)E TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUILT I NS
LAYOUT TOOLS
Layout tools help you measure, mar k, a nd set -up
perfect cuts with accuracy. Many layout tools are
inexpensive and simply provide a mea ns of measuring
for level, square, and plumb lines. However, recent
tec hnologies have incorporated lase rs into level s,
stud finders, and tape measures, making the m more
aCClIrate than ever before but, at a s lightl y highe r
price. Although these new tools are ha ndy in specifi c
appli cati ons, their hi ghe r pri ce is not always wa rranted
for the do- it -yourselfer.
A t a pe measure is one of t he most common tools
a round. The odds a re good that you a lready own
at least one. (If you arc making frequent trips for
building suppli es, invest in a second ta pe that
stays in your car. ) Carpenlry projects req uire a
sturdy tape measure with a length greater tha n
your longest stock. A 2S-ft . tape measure has a
wider and thicke r reading surface t han a 16-ft.
va ri ety, but e ithe r is adeq uate for most ca rpe nt!)'
jobs. If you ca n't te ll the diffe rence between
the small e r lines on a standa rd tape,
conside r purchasing an "Easy Head"
v<Jri ety. I t is importa nt to read the
tape acc uratel y.
"Easy Read"
tape measure
Levels
A framing square, also knO\vn as a carpenter's
sq uare, is commonl y used to mark sheet goods
ctnd check recentl y installed pieces for position.
Frami ng squares are also used CIS Cl n init ial
check for wa ll squareness and pl umb in
relation to a fl oor or ceiling.
Chalk lines are used to make temporary straight
lines anywhere one is needed. T he case of a
chal k line, or the "box," is tea rdrop shaped so that
the tool doubl es as a plumb bob. Use a chal k line
to mark sheet goods for cutt ing or to establi sh CI
level li ne in a room. Keep in mind that chalk can
be difll cult to remove from porous surfCl ces.
A stud finder is used to locate t he framing
members in a \.va ll or ceiling.
versions also locatc plumbing, el cc trica l, or
ot her mcchanicals in t he wa ll. Alt hough stud
Ilnders are not completely necessary, they are
convenient for larger jobs.
Levels are ava ibbl e in a vari ety of lengths Cl nd
pri ce ranges. The longer a nd more accurate t he
level, the higher the pri ce. The t\vo most commonly
used sizes are 2-ft. and lengths. levels
are handy for tighter spaces, whil e the 4-ft . variety
serves as a better all-purpose level. Laser levels
are handy for creating a level line around the
perimeter of a room or for level lines along longer
lengths. They provide a wide range of line or spot
placeme nt , depending on the model.
A T-bevel is a speciali zed tool for find ing
and transferri ng precise angles.
are gene rall y used in conj uncti on with
a pmver miter saw to gauge angled
miters of corne rs. Thi s
tool is especiall y handy in older homes
where t he ori ginal states of square,
plumb, and level may no longer appl y.
A profile gauge uses a series of pins to recreate
the profi le of any object so t hat you may
transfer it to a work pi ece. Prolli e gauges
are especiall y useful when dealing \-vith
irregular obstructions.
A combination square is a multifunction
sq uare that provides Cln easy reference for
and 90-degree angles, as \.vell as marki ng reveal
lines or a constant specillc di stance from t he edge
of a work piece.
Framing square
Profile gauge
Stud finder!
laser level
Tools & Materials 21
CONSTRUCTION TOOLS
A good qua lity hamme r is a must for every
ca rpe nt ry project. A \6-oz. curved claw hammer,
ot herwise known as a fi nis h hammer, is a good
a ll -purpose c hoice. Some people prefer a larger
straight clelw ha mmer for heavy tear-down projects
and rough framing, but t hese hammers <:I re too
clumsy a nd heavy for dr iving s mall er cas ing and
finis h nails, and tend to mar the surface of t rim.
Utility kni ves are available in fixed, retract ing,
and ret rac table bl ades. Thi s tool is used for a wide
varie ty of cutting tasks from penci l s harpening to
back-beveling mi ter joints. Always have add it ional
blades readily avail able. Fold ing fixed-bl ade ut ility
kni ves offer the durabil ity and strengt h of a fixed
blade with the protection of a fo lding ha ndle.
A set of' chisels is necessary for insta lli ng
door hardware as well as notching tri m around
obstacles and final fitting of difficult pieces. Keep
a set only for lise wit h wood, <:I nd do not subst itu te
them for screwdrivers.
Block planes are used to fi t doors into openi ngs
and re move fi ne amoun ts of materia l from trim. A
finely tuned bl ock pla ne can even be used to clean
up a sloppy mite r joint.
A coping saw has a thin, fl exible bl ade designed
to cut curves a nd is essential for maki ng
professional trim joints on inside corners. Copi ng
saw blades should be fine toothed, between 16 and
24 teet h per inch for most hardv,roods, and set to
cut on the pull stroke of the S3\'V to offer you more
blade control.
A sha rp h a ndsaw is convenient for quick cut-
offs and in some instances w' here power saws are
difficu lt to control. Purchase a crosscut S3\V for
general-purpose cutti ng.
Protec tive wear, incl uding safety gb sses and ea r
protection, is required any t ime you are worki ng
wit h tools. Dust masks are necessary vvhen sanding,
doing demolition, or when worki ng around fumes .
Pry bars come in a va ri ety of sizes and shapes.
A qual ity forged high-carbon stecl fl at bar is t he
most common choice. Wrecking bars make lighter
wor k of trim a nd door removal d ue to thei r added
weight . No matter what type of pry bar you use,
protect finis hed surfaces from scratches wit h a
block of wood vv hen removing trim.
Side cutte rs and e nd nippe r s are usefu l
for cutting off and pull ing out bent na ils. The
added ha nd le lengt h and curved head of a n end
nippers makes them idea l for larger cas ing nails.
Pne umat ic brad nui ls and sma ll e r pi ns will pull
out eas ier wit h s ide cutters. Purc hase u nuil set fo r
coun tersinki ng nail heads. Three- piece sets are
available for di fferent nail sizes.
A ra sp and metal file s e t is important for fitt ing
coped joints precise ly. The vari ety of s hapes,
sizes, and mi ll s a ll ow for fas te r rough removal of
materia l, or smoother slow re moval, depending on
t he fi le.
Use a putty knife to fi ll na il holes wi th wood
fi ll er and for light sCfuping t<Jsks.

, SANDVIK " '
Irl r. i
~ " " . ~ ~ ~ ~ 1 \ . \ . \ . . )
Handsaw
IRWIN
Tools & N/nterials 23

I Power Tools
Compound power
miter saw
Reciprocating
saw
Despite the hi gher pri ce as compared to hand tools,
power tool s are a great va lue. They al low you to \-\lork
more quickly a nd accurate ly than with hand tools
<:Ind ma ke repet it ive tasks like sa ndi ng, drilling, and
smving more enjoyabl e. Basic home ca rpentIY does not
require every power tool shown here, but some tools,
sll c h as a power mite r box, are crucial for profess ional
results. Purchase power tools on an a s ~ n e e d e d basi s,
keeping in mind that \.vhil c the cheapest tool is not
always you r best option, the most expensive and
powerful is probabl y not necessary, e ither. C hea per
tool s generall y sacrifice precis ion, whil e the most
expensive tools are made for people who li se them
every day, not j ust occaSionall y.
Circular saw
Jig saw
Cordless drill
A cordless drill is one of the handiest tools
available. Al though drill s are not normall y used
to insta ll trim, they make quick wo rk of installing
st ructural compone nt s. OccaSionall y, trim-head
scre\vs are used to instJ Il trim, rathe r than na il s or
regul ar wood screws .
A circular saw is ideal for straight cuts in pl)'\vood
and qui ck cut-offs of solid materia l. Purchase a
plywood blade to make smooth cuts in pl ywood,
and a gene ral -purpose blade for other cuts.
A jig saw is the perfect tool for cutting curves,
or notc hing out trim around obstructions. Ji g saw
blades come in a n array of deSigns for diffe re nt
styles of c ut s and di fferent types a nd thi cknesses
of materi als . Always li se the ri ght type of blade
and do not force the Sa\V during the cut: or it may
bend or break.
Router
Biscuit joiner
Random orbit
sander
planer
Finish
sander
Belt sander
A biscuit joiner (also call ed a plate joiner) is
a specialty tool used for alignment and to make
strong joints between t\vo squa re pieces of stock.
A reciprocating saw is used for removal <:Ind
tea r-down applications. This tool is es peciall y
handy for removing door jambs.
A power miter saw, or chop saw, wi ll yiel d
professional resul ts. Most have a 10" or 12"
diameter blade. A compound power miter saw has
a head that pivots to cut bot h bevels and miters.
Sl idi ng miter sa\vs have more cutting capac ity but
are less portabl e. A nne-tooth carbide-t ipped blade
is best fo r built-in and shelving projects.
A belt sander is not essent ial but is a handy tool
for quick removal of materi al.
Random-orbit sanders are a good choice for
smoot hing Aat areas, such as plyv,lOod, quickly.
Table saw
Random-orbit sanders leave no circular marki ngs,
like a di sc sa nder, and can sand in any direction
rega rdl ess of wood gra in .
Finish sanders are ava ilabl e in a variety of
sizes and shapes for different light sanding
applications.
A power planer is lIsed to trim doors to fit
openi ngs and fl atten or straighten out materi als.
Power planers arc faster to use than manual
hand pl anes, but the resu lt s arc more difneult to
control.
A table saw is the best tool for ripping stock
to widt h, and larger models ca n be fitted with a
molding head for cutting profiles.
A router (plunge router is shown here) has many
uses in trim carpe nt ry, especiall y for cutt ing edge
profi les to make your own custom \vorkpieces.
I Pneumatic Tools
Pneumat ic tools ca n be a key to timely, profess ional
carpent ry results. They save time and energy over
traditi onal hamme r- ancl-na il install ati on. Not onl y do
they drive fasteners quic kl y, but they counte rsin k at
the sa me time, avoiding mu ltipl e strikes to trim, which
could thrmv joints out of a li gn ment. Predrill ed holes
are not necessary \,vith pneumatic tools. Splitti ng is
infrequent if the work piece is held firml y in place
Pin
nailer
Brad
nailer
Stapler
Angled
finish
nailer
26 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUlLT-l NS
and the na ils are pos itioned at least } 'I from trim
e nds. Na il guns also allmv YOLI to concent rate on t he
placement of the \vork pi ece with one hand and
fas ten it with the ot he r. You needn't fumbl e around
\vith single faste ne rs beca use they are al ready loaded
in the gun .
The costs of pne umatic tools, compressors, and
fastene rs has dec reased over the years, ma king t he m
not only the professiona l's choice, but a great option
for the do-it -yourselfe r as wel l. Pneumatic kits are
avail able at home cente rs with two diffe re nt guns and
a compressor at a value price. For small or infrequent
jobs, cons ide r renting pneumatics.
Portabl e compressors are ava ilable in different
styles, including pancake ,md hot -dog styles . Any
compressor with air pressure capability of 90 ps i or
greater will dri ve a fini sh or brad nail er. Consider
options like tank size, vveight of the unit, and noise
leve ls whil e the compressor is running. Ta lk to a home
cente r specia list about what your spec ifi c compressor
needs are and keep in mind any future pneumati c
tools you might want.
The t\'vo bas ic pne umati c tools used in c<:l rpentry
are a fini sh nailer, and a brad nail er. A finish na iler
drives IS-gauge na il s ranging from I II to 2Ih". These
nai ls work for a va ri ety of moldings, door and windO\,v
trim, and general-purpose fastening. Angled finis h
n<:l ilers are easier to m<:l ne uver in tight corners than
st raight guns, but either opti on will work. Brad na il e rs
drive small er IS-gauge faste ners ranging in length
from Ih" to 211 . Some brad nailers' maximum length is
I I//, . Because t he fasteners are small er, it is no surpri se
that the gun is lighter and s maller than a fini sh gu n.
Brad nailers are used to attach thinner stock, wit h less
tendency to split the wood. Headl ess pin ners drive
fasteners si mila r to brad nail s, but without the head.
These nai ls h<:lve less hol ding po\,ver, but are normall y
used to hold small moldings in place until the glue
dri es. Be Sllre to load headl ess pins with the points
down, taking note of the label on the
magazine. %,11 crown staplers are used to
attac h t hin panel s and in situat ions where
maximum holding pO\ver is needed,
but the fastener head will not be visibl e.
Because stapl es have two legs and a crown
th<:lt connects them, the ir holding power is
excell e nt. Howeve r, the hole left by the stapl e's
crown is large and ca n be diffi cult to conceal.
18 gao x 1114" brads
1
1
/4" X 3/4" narrow crown staples
3/8" X 1" narrow crown staples
3/8" x 1
'
12" narrow crown staples
I Pneumatic Fasteners
IS-gauge angled finish nai ls and regu lar fini sh na ils
range in le ngt h up to 2112 ". The angled variety are
exactl y the same as the st r<:ti ght n<:t il s, but come in
angled clips. These na il s a re made from galvanized
wire, so t hey are suitable for exterior appli cations. Use
fini sh nail s to attac h larger moldings and trim casings.
Dri ve fasteners at regu lar intervals a long the moldings
and keep the posi tion of the na il s at least 1" from the
molding e nds. Faste ner lengt h is de pendent upon the
size of workpi ece installed. Typical stock moldings and
dimens ional lumbe r is %" thick. 'vVhen installing
ins, the fastene r must pass through the molding and
wallboard a nd into the stud behind. Generall y, half the
fastener should be embedded in the backing or stud,
so in most applications, 2" fasteners should sufllce.
15 gao x 2W' finish nails
15 gao x 2" finish nails
18 gao x 1 W' brads
18 gao x 5/8" brads
brad na ils ra nge in length up to 2" for
some guns a nd leave s mall er hol es to Ill! than Ilnis h
guns. Brad n<:t il s are commonly used fo r thinne r
casings that are nail ed directly to a solid backer. A
specill c exa mpl e of thi s is along the inner edge of a
door or windmv cas ing. The outer edge of the trim is
nailed with a llni s h gun through the wa ll board, whi le
the inside edge rests aga inst the door jamb, so it can
be faste ned with a brad nail e r. Headl ess pins leave
almost no nail hole to fill but are li mited in lengt h
to I ". The ir holding pov.re r is gre<:t tly dimini shed due
to the lac k of head, but they arc generally used in
conjunct io n \.vit h wood glue. W' c rovvn stapl es are used
on ly when the fastener head will not be visi bl e.
I Sheet Goods
There "re many different types of plywood fo r a wide
array of uses. For built in and shelf projects, finish
grade or paintgrade plywood is commonly used. Each
type is made up of thinly sliced laye rs ca ll ed plies.
These layers arc made of sol id hardwood, softwood, or
wood products. The more plies a sheet good has, the
stronger it \vill be. This is only true for veneer- based
plies. Medium density fiberboard, or MOF, is made of
wood fibers that have been gl ued and pressed together.
These panels a rc extremely sta bl e and rarely shrink,
expand, or warp. Plywood thicknesses range from I/SII
to 1". Many species of wood are avai labl e for t he outer
plywood veneers. Therefore, the core, or inner plies,
give the panel it s st ructural characterist ics.
3/4" or 2313/ AC plywood has a finish-grade face on
one si de and a utility grade on the other. Standard
AC pl yv.rood is made of seven plies of soft\vood , sllch
as spruce or pine. Th is plywood is a good choice for
paint-grade moldings. 3// ha rdwood veneer plywood is
available in red oak, maple, and birch at most home
centers. Its in ner core is basically the same as AC
plywood, but it has a hardwood outer face. 3(," M OF
oak venee r plywood is made up of three layers: two
outer o<:lk ve neers and a solid core made of i\lIOF. This
plyv.rood tends to be less expens ive than a veneer core
product and has a smoother face, but is heavy, less
durable, and docs not hold faste ne rs as wel l.
IVIOF is aV<:Iilable \-v ith or without an outer veneer.
WI Baltic birch plywood is m<:lde up of thirteen pli es,
making it more dimensionally stabl e than regular
veneer core pl)'\vood. This panel is commonly used
in Modern-style trim a nd ca n be painted or stained.
Lumber-core ply,.vood has strips of solid wood edge-
glued betvveen outer veneer plies. Medium density
overlay, or Nl DO, p l ) ~ v o o d has a solid wood veneer
core v,Iith a n MOF face. This panel e liminates the
\'\reight of a MOF pane l and ha s the fastening strength
of" solid veneer core. The MOP face is perfect for
paint -grade applications. Wainscoting paneling is
available in several thicknesses from 3/ 16" to 5fs ".
I Lumber
Solid hardvvood is ava il able at most home centers
in varyi ng widths. Species vary, depending on your
location. These boards make good solid stock mate rial
to combine with or mi ll into new trim moldings
because they arc already planed to a uniform
thickness. If you can't find the type of lumber you
need at a horne center, check v,lith a lurnbel)'ard or a
smal l cabinet shop in your area. For larger runs wi th a
uniform thickness, many cabinet shops \vi ll charge a
nominal nat fcc to plane the boards for you. They may
even be willing to order the material for you through a
local distributor.
Tip ~
Whenever possible, do a quick inspection of each
board before you purchase it. Because hardwood
lumber is often stained, carefully take note of
cosmetic flaws such as splits, knots, checks, and
wanes. These issues can sometimes be cut around,
but once the finish is applied, the imperfection will
show through. Lumber that is twisted, cupped, or
crooked should not be used at full length. If a board
is slightly bowed, you can probably flatten it out as
you nail it. In any case, always choose the straightest,
flattest lumber you can fi nd.
Pine
Tools & Mnt erials 29
I Planning a Proiect
W
i t h any of the built-in and shelf projects found
in t hi s book, you can eit her build the project as
shown, or adapt the des ign to fit your unique space
and needs. To build the project as shown, foll ow the
measurements in the parts tabl e that accompanies
each project. Small wi dth and he ight adjustments can
be made using the fitting tips on page 32.
vVhcn adapt ing a built- in des ign, it is vcry
important to make accurate pl an drawings on graph
paper to show hmv the project wi lt fit in your space.
T hese drawings let you organi ze your work <:I nd fi nd
approximate measurements for parts; they also make it
easier to estimate the cost of materials .
............... ... '>oe
'S.lr ...
To e nsure a profess ional look and fUll ctionaiuse,
plan your built-ins so they fall withi n the standard
range of sizes ll sed by c<:I binet makers <Jnd furniture
manufacturers ( page opposi te.)
vVhet her YOLI are adapting a project or following
a design as shown, it is safer to measure and cut the
pi eces as you assembl e the built-in in its location,
rather than to precut all pieces in advance. Small
discrepancies in marldng, cutting, and assembl y
techniques can lead to costly errors if you precut
al l the pi eces.
-28'-
Make accurate scaled drawings on graph paper when adapting one of the built-in projects featured in this book. use a Simple
scale, like 1 square = 1 ", to draw a side, top, and one or more front views of your project. For a complicated project, draw several
front views showing the basic walls (carcase) of the built-in, the face frame construction, and the finished project including drawers
and doors. Side views and top views should show all trim pieces and moldings. Make sure to use the actual measurements of
sheet goods and dimension lumber when making your drawings.
STANDARD BUILT-IN MEASUREMENTS
Highest shelf shou ld be no more than 80" above the
fl oor to be within casy reac h.
Shelves should be at least 10" deep in bookcases, and
12" deep in hanging wall cabinets. Space the shelves
so there is at least 1/2" of ope n space above t he ite ms
you are storing.
First shelf in a wa ll -hung built -in should be at least
18" above a countertop.
Work-surface height varies depending on how the
surface is used. Pl ace the surface 28" to 30" above t he
Aoar for a typi ng desk or sewing \vork center. Place
the countertop at 36
11
for standard kitchen c<:tbinets,
at 44" for a dry bar or cating counte r, or at 34" for
accessible rooms .
Standard seating surfaces, like vvindmv seClt s un d
desk chuirs, are between 16" and 20
11
hi gh.
Base cabinet depth varies from 15" fo r a room
di vider to 30" for cabine ts that support a des k surface.
Sta ndard kitc hen-style fl oor ca binets usuall y arc 24" or
25" in depth.
Access space in front of a buil t- in s hould be at least
36" to provide kneeling space for opening drawe rs and
cabinet doors.
Drawer sizes range from a minimum of 3" hi gh,
8" wide, and 8" deep; to a maximum of 10" high,
36" wide, and 30" deep. Large drawers, more than
24" wide, should be equipped wit h two drawer s lides
for sta bili ty.
P/mlllil1g (j Project 31
Tips for Planning and Fitting Built-Ins ~
Make small width adjustments (up to 6" on each side)
with hardwood strips measured and cut to fill the extra
space. Attach the strips to the edges of the face frame
with counterbored wood screws. These "filler strips" let
you slightly enlarge a project without maki ng changes
to the basic design. Filler strips also can be scribed to fit
uneven walls.
Ceiling
CeilIng jOist
J
Top plates
Floor JOist
Make small height adjustments by changing the
thickness of the sale plates or top plates that anchor the
built-in to the floor and ceiling. The floor-to-ceiling projects
in this book are designed to fit rooms with 8ft . ceilings.
If your room height differs slightly, adjusting the sale
plates or top plates lets you adapt a project without major
design changes.
Nominal size Actual size
1 x 2 3/4" X 1
1
12"
1 x 3 314" X 2
1
12"
1x4 3f4" x 3112"
1 x 6 3/4" x 5112"
1 x 8 3/4" X 7114"
2 x 4 1
1
12" x 31/2"
2 x 6 1
1
12" x 5
1
12"
2x8 1
1
12" x 7114"
2 x 10 1112" X 9114"
Measure spaces carefully. Floors,
walls, and ceilings are not always
level or plumb, so measure at several
paints. If measurements vary from
point-to-point, use the shortest
measurement to determine the
height or width of your built-in.
Measure your materials. Actual
thickness for plywood can vary from
the listed nominal size; ," plywood,
for example, can vary in thickness by
nearly 'k" .
Use actual measurements,
not nominal measurements, of
dimension lumber when planni ng
a built-in. The table above shows
the actual dimensions of common
lumber.
Revise the listed measurements of a featured project,
if necessary, and record them. use your scaled drawings as
a guide for estimating the revised measurements. Always
double-check measurements before cutting pieces to prevent
costly cutting errors.
Make cutting diagrams to help you make efficient use of
materials. Make scale drawings of sheet goods on graph paper,
and sketch cutting lines for each part of your project When
laying out cutting lines, remember that the cutting path (kerf)
of a saw blade usually consumes '/,' of wood.
Amount Cost for Total
Materials needed each cost
Plywood (4 ft. x 8 ft.)
V4" sheets
1/2" sheets
," sheets
Lumber
1 x 2 boards
1 x 3 boards
1 x 4 boards
1 x 6 boards
1 x 8 boards
2 x 4S
Moldings
Door-edge
Shelf-edge
Base shoe
Baseboard
Crown/cove
Ornamental
Hardware
Finish nails
Power-drive screws
Angle brackets
Countertop brackets
Drawer Slides
Hinges
Door latches
Pulls/knobs
Other materials
Wood glue
Oil/stain
Sanding sealer
Paint
Outlet stri ps
Grommets
Light fixtures
Total cost:
Make a list of materials, using your plan drawings and
cutting diagrams as a guide. Photocopy this materials list, and
use it to organize your work and estimate costs.
P/mlllil1g (j Project 33
I Jobsite Preparation
W
het her you are insta lling an elabora te, custom
buil t -in or a simple shel f, preparing the jobsite
is a n importa nt step of your project. Remove furniture
and ot her objects from the rooms YOLI \vill be wodu ng
in so that YOLI \ovon't worry about getting smvdust on
a ni ce upholstered chair, or accidentall y damaging
an ant ique furnish ing. Cover any items you ca nnot
remove wit h plast ic s heet ing. You may a lso want to
cover fln ished floors wit h cardboard or plast ic as \vell,
to protect t hem from scratc hes or just to make clean-
li p easier.
Set li p tools sli ch as a power mi ter saw at a central
wor kstatio n, to avoid walking long d istances between
where you a re installing and where YOLI are cutti ng
material. This central location is key to profess ional
resul ts because measure me nts a re easier to remember
and quick trimmi ng is possible wit hout t he added t ime
of exiting and entering t he house.
Make sure the work area is well li t. I f you don't
<:Ilready own one, purchase a portabl e light (t rouble
light) to ma ke vie\vi ng the workpieces e<:ls ier. Keep your
tools sharp a nd clean. Acc idents are more likely \,vhen
blades are dull and tools are covered in dust and di rt.
Keep t he wor k area clean and organized . A
dedicated tool tabl e for staging your tools is a great
organizat ional aid. Tool tables also make it poss ible to
conve ni ent ly keep tools from d isappearing. If you only
use t he tools t hat you need and set them on the tool
table \,vhen you are n't usi ng t hem, tools stay off the
Aoor and out of ot her rooms. Add a set of clamps to
the table and you have a convenie nt space for fine-
tuning t he fit of eac h piece.
Organize your tools and avoid wearing a bulky work belt by
setting up a dedicated tool table where all of your project tools
and materials can be staged.
I
L ~
-
In some built-in or shelving projects, the most efficient way to accomplish the work is to convert the installation room into a
temporary workshop.
I Proiect Safety
P
ersonal safety should be a priority when working
on any project. Power tools and hand tools
can cause serio LI S injuries that require immediate
attention. Be prepared for such situations \vith a
properly stocked first aid kit. Equip your kit with a
variety of bandage sizes and ot her necessary items
such as ant isepti c wipes, cotton swabs, tweezers,
sterile gauze, and a first aid handbook.
To help you avoid using the nrst aid kit, read the
owner's manuals of all power tools before operating
them, and foll O\v all outli ned precautions. Protect
yourself with sCifety glasses, eur protect ion, and dust
masks and respirators when necessury.
Keep your work environment clea n and free of
clutter. Clean your tools and put them away after
Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when
operating power tools. Use dust masks when necessary, and
protect yourself from chemicals with a respirator. Work gloves
save your hands when moving or handling large amounts of
material. Knee pads are useful when working on floor-level
projects such as baseboard.
eac h work sess ion, sweep up dust and any leftover
fasteners, and collect scraps of c ut-off trim in a work
bucket. These scraps may come in handy before the
e nd of the project, so keep the m around until you are
finished.
Maintain safety throughout your project, and
remember that being safe is a priori ty. Everyone needs
to use ear protection when operating loud tools. If
you don't, you wi ll lose your hearing. People don't
just get used to loud noise. They lose their hearing
and the noise doesn't seem as loud. The concept t hat
safety applies to everyone but you is fool ish. Take the
necessaI)' precautions to prevent injury to yo urself and
those around you.
Read the owner's manual before operating any power tool.
Your tools may differ in many ways from those described in
this book, so it's best to familiarize yourself with the features
and capabilities of the tools you own. Always wear eye and
ear protection when operating a power tool. wear a dust mask
when the project will produce dust.
Project Safet y 35
I Cutting & Fitting Joints
C
utti ng and fitting joints is a skill t hat requires
patience, knowledge, and wel l-maintained
equipment to achieve effecti ve results. There a f C a
few basic joints that are genera ll y used for most
carpent ry applications: butt, inside and outside mite r,
scarf, and coped joints.
Although cLl ttingjoints acc urately is the key
fun ction of a pm,ver miter saw, it is not the onl y tool
necessary for quality joinery. Coped joints require a
coping S3W as we ll as a set of metal files . For some
applications, fitti ng butt joints is simplifi ed \vith t he
li se of a bi scuit jointer or a pocket hole jig. These arc
specialty tools designed for joining wood.
Cutting and fitting joints during installation
can be very frustrat ing, especiall y when it involves
difficult wal ls that are not plumb and corners that
are out of square. TClke the time to read t hrough the
proper techni ques of using a miter smv, as we ll CIS the
correct met hod for cutting each individua l joint. These
techniques a re desc ri bed in detai l to help you work
through the imperfections found in every house and
to avoid common problems during instal lat ion.
Careful cutting is the hallmark of good joinery, be it in making furniture or installing trim moldings. Used correctly, a power miter
saw offers the speed and precision to make your project look li ke it was done by a pro.
I Power Miter Saw
Techniques
T
h. ere <:Ire two main types of power miter $mvs.
The basic style cuts mitered angles when
materi al is placed against the fence or beveled angles
when material is pl aced flat on the work surface.
The second type is called a compound mite r saw.
Compound saws all ow you to cut a miter and a bevel
simultaneously. T he compound angle is extremely
helpful in situations where a corner is out of plumb
and a mi tered angle requires <! bevel to compensate.
Some compound saws are Clvcti lable \\l ith a sl iding
feature that allows YOLI to cut through wider stock
with a small er blade size. Thi s option raises the cost of
the saw considerably.
Tip: To avoid cutting off too much, start out by making a cut
about W' to the waste side of the cutting li ne, then nibble at
the workpiece wi th one or more additional cuts until you have
cut up to the cutting li ne. Wait until the blade stops before
raising the arm on every cut
Tips for Cutting with a Power Miter Saw
TO cut multiple pieces of stock to
the same length, clamp a stop block
to your support table at the desired
distance from the blade. After
cutting the first piece, position each
additional length against the stop
block and the fence to cut pieces of
equal length.
Blade guard
removed for
clarity
Make a full downward cut with
a compound saw to cut wide stock.
Release the trigger and let the blade
come to a full stop, then raise the
saw arm. Flip the workpiece over and
finish the cut
use a sliding miter saw equipped
wi th a saw carriage that slides
away from the fence. These saws
have greater cutting capacity than a
nonsliding saw so they can cut wider
stock. They're also more expensive,
but you may find it worth renting
one.
Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11 j[J! les 37
I Mitering Outside Corners
Cutting out side miters is one of t he main f unct ions
of a pm,vcr mi ter saw. Most S3\VS have positi ve stops
(called dete nts) at 45 in eac h di rect ion, so standard
outside corners arc prac tica ll y cut for you by t he saw.
Keep in mind that your saw must be accurately set
up to c ut joints squarely. Head t he owne r's ma nua l for
sett ing up your saw as \\lell as for safe ty precaut ions.
Before you begin, chec k the wall s for square \,vith a
combinat ion square or a fra ming square. If the corner
is vel)' close to squa re, proceed with the square corner
install at ion. If t he corne r is badl y out of square, follow
the "Out of Square" proced ure on t he following page.
Tools & Materials ~
Combination square
or framing square
Miter saw
Pencil
Tape measure
Pneumatic finish nail gun
Air compressor
Air hose
T-bevel
Molding
Masking tape
1 x 4
How TO Miter Square Outside Corners
Set the miter saw to 45. Position the first piece on-edge.
flat on the miter box table, flush agai nst the fence. Hold the
piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the trim with a
slow, steady motion. Release the power button of the saw and
remove the molding after the blade stops.
Stud location
'I
First piece
With the first piece of molding tacked in place, hold the
second piece in position and check the fit of the joi nt If the
joint is tight, nail both pieces at stud locations.
38 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUILT-I NS
Set the miter saw blade to the opposing 45 posi tive stop.
Place the second piece of molding on-edge, flat on the saw
table, flush against the fence. Fasten the piece tightly in place
with a hold-down or clamp. Cut the molding with a slow.
steady motion.
If the corner joint does not fit tightly, shim the work piece
away from the fence to make minor adjustments until the joint
fits tightly. Shims should be a uniform thickness. Playi ng cards
work well.
I How to Miter Out-ot-Square Outside Corners
line parallel
to wall
Draw a reference line off each wall of the corner using a
straight 1 x 4. Put masking tape down on the finished floor to
avoid scuffing it and to see your lines clearly Trace along each
wall, connecting the traced lines at a point out from the tip of
the corner.
Transfer the angle of the T-bevel to the miter saw by locking
the saw in the down position and adjusting the angle to match
the angle of the T-bevel.
To find the angle you need to miter your moldings, place a
T-bevel wi th the handle flush against one wall, and adjust the
blade so that it intersects the point where your reference lines
meet. Lock the blade in place at this angle.
Position the molding on-edge, flat on the saw table and
flush against the fence. Cut at your cutting mark. Tack the
workpiece in place and repeat steps 2 through 4 to measure
and cut the mating piece. Or, you can subtract the angle of the
first cut (for example, 47") from 90
0
to find the angle for the
second cut (43
0
in this case). using math is faster; taking direct
measurements is more reliable.
Power fI.4iter Saw Tecll11ilJlles 39
I Mitering Inside Corners
Although most profess ionals prefer to cope-c ut ins ide
corners, it is common to see moldings that are mitered
to inside corners. These joi nts are more l i kely to
se parate over time and to allow gaps to show. For t hat
rcason it is not advised to use inside corner mite rs
when insta lling a stain-grade trim product:. The gaps
will be visi bl e and are very diffi cult to fil l with putty.
For paint-grade projects, miteri ng insi de corners
makes more sense because joint s can be fi ll ed and
sanded before the top coats of pai nt arc applied .
Tools & Materials ~
Miter saw
Pencil
Tape measure
Utility knife
Pneumatic finish nail gun
Air compressor
Air hose
Molding
How To Miter Square Inside Corners
Set the miter saw to 45and place the first piece of trim
onedge, flat on the miter box table and flush against the fence.
Hold the piece firmly in place with your left hand and cut the
trim with a slow, steady motion. Release the power button and
remove the molding after the blade stops.
3 Stud location
Stud location
\
Butt the molding tightly against the wallboard and tack it
into place.
40 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU1LT 1NS
Front face of
Backcut the inside edge of the trim piece with a utility knife
so that the top corner will sit flush against the wall corner.
4
Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45angle
and cut the mating piece. Test the fit of the jOint, adjusting the
miter angle if necessary. Once the fit is tight, nail both pieces at
stud locations.
I Building a Straightedge Guide
Making strai ght and accurate cuts on pl ywood or
paneli ng is a challenge. Even the best carpenter can't
always keep the blade on the cut line, espec iall y over a
longer span. A straightedge guide solves this probl em
<:IS long as YOLI keep the sav/s base plate flush with the
edge of the cieClt.
The cleated edge of the gu ide provides an
accurate anchor for the base pl ate of the S3\'V as the
bl ade passes through the material. You can make a
straight cleat edge by rippi ng the fi rst 2" off of an
exi sting pl yvvood pa nel and using the factory edge. Use
a fine-toothed bl ade for rip cut s and a pl ywood blade
for splinter-free crossc uts .
Tools & Materials ~
C-clamps
Pencil
Circular saw
v,' Plywood base (10 x 96")
~ , ' Plywood
cleat (2 x 96")
Carpenter's
glue
A straightedge guide overcomes the difficulty of maki ng
square rip cuts and other square cuts on long workpieces. The
guide is built square, ensuring that any cuts made with it will
be square as well.
I How to Build a Straightedge Guide
Apply carpenter's glue to the bottom
of the ," plywood cleat. then position
the cleat on the W' plywood base,
2" from one edge. Clamp the pieces
together until the glue dries.
Position the circular saw with its foot
tight against the ~ , " plywood cleat. Cut
away the excess portion of the plywood
base with a single pass of the saw to
create a square edge.
TO use the guide, position it on top
of the workpiece, so the guide'S square
edge is flush with the cutting line on the
workpiece. Clamp the guide in place
with C-clamps.
I cutting Mitered Returns
Mi tered returns are a decorative treatment lI sed to
hide the e nd gra in of \,vood and provide a fi ni shed
appearance. Mitered returns range from tiny pieces of
base shoe up to vcry large crown moldings. They are
also commonly used when instal ling a stool a nd apron
treat ment or on decorati ve friezes above doors.
Bevel ret urns <:Ife another simple ret urn option
for chair rail, baseboard, and base shoe. A bevel
return is simpl y a cut at the end of the mo lding t hat
"returns" t he \'vorkpiccc back to the wa ll at a n angle.
The bi ggest advantage to using mitered returns rather
than beve l returns is t hat mi tered returns a lready
have a finish ed s urface. Beve l re turns require more
touc hups.
C ut ting mite red retu rns for s mall moldings, such
as quarter-round, or for thin stock, such as baseboard,
can be tric ky when using a power miter S3\'V. The
Mitered
joint
/ MiteIed Ietum
--...l-. Straight
cut
Mitered returns finish molding ends that would otherwise
be exposed. Miter the main piece as you would at an outside
corner. Cut a miter on the r.eturn piece, then cut it to length
with a str.aight cut so it butts to the wall. Attach the return
piece with wood glue.
fina l cut of the process leaves the return loose where
it can sometimes be thrown from the saw due to the
air current of the bl ade. Plan on ll sing a pi ece of trim
that is long enough to cut comfortabl y, or you will find
yourse lf fighting the saw.
Tools & Materials ~
Combination squar.e
Utility knife
Power miter saw
Miter. box and back saw
Pencil
Tape measure
pneumatic finish nai l gun
Air compressor
Air hose
T-bevel
Molding
Wood glue
Returns are made fr.om two 45
0
angle cuts. The scr.ap piece
is removed and the r.eturn piece is glued into place.
How to Cut Mitered Base Shoe Returns
Measure and mark the molding to length. Adjust the miter
saw blade to 45and back-miter the molding, cutting the front
edge to the desired overall length of the trim. Nail the back-
mitered piece in place using a square to line it up flush with
the edge of the door casing.
Adjust the blade of the miter saw to the opposite 45angle
and miter-cut the molding using a slow, steady stroke.
Hold the mitered molding against
the baseboard at a right angle above the
installed base shoe. Mark the molding
at the depth of the installed base shoe.
Square-cut the molding at the cutoff
mark. Because making this cut with a
power saw is very dangerous, use a
miter box and a back saw The cut-off
piece will be the mitered return piece.
Check the fit of the return against the
baseboard. If it is too small, repeat steps
3 and 4, making the piece slightly larger.
If the return is too large, trim it to fit with
a utility knife or sandpaper. Once the
return fits properly, glue it in place with
wood glue.
OPTION: Beveled returns are a quick
and simple alternative to mitered
returns. They require finish touchup
after the trim is installed.
I Establishing Level, Plumb & Square
G
ood ca rpe nters stri ve to ach ieve three basi c ideals
in t he ir work: plumb, level, a nd square. Go into
<1Il Y home, however, and you are bound to find walls
that bow, Aoars that slope, a nd corners that don't form
right angles. Thi s does n't always mean the carpe nter
did a poor job, but ra ther refl ects the fact that wood
and many building materia ls arc natura l products that
expand, contract, and settl e with the seasons. These
natural movements do not always occur at t he same
rate, however, causing Auctuations that somet imes
become permanent . That's \,.., hy it's no surpri se that
older homes more cOlllmonly have larger Auctu3tions.
These movements cun make trimming a built -
in project c ha ll enging. Level and plumb are hard
concept s to apply when the fl oor slopes heavil y a nd
corners float in or out. Compounding the problem
furt he r is that powe r tools arc made to cut and shape
wood preci sely. Preset angles on a compound miter
saw don' t include angles such as 47 degrees.
In most cases, your installat ion of built- ins a nd
trim "viII require compromi ses. Keep in mind t he
overall appea rance of your project and remember
that t he concepts of plumb and level can be relative
concepts. Stri ve to achieve them for quality joints,
but don't insist on them when t hey affect t he overall
appeara nce of your project negati vely. Here are a
coupl e of Ilne pi eces of advice to keep in mind:
Level to the room is more important than level to
the ea rth .
Flat is morc important than level.
A plumb bob is hung to establish a plumb (exactly vertical)
line. Plumb can be difficult to visualize. Most chalk boxes can
double as plumb bobs for rough use.
Window and door jambs are normally installed level and
plumb, but if they aren't your casing should still follow an even
reveal of 3/,," to '// (about the thickness of a nickel) around
the inside edge. Set the blade on a combination square to the
depth of the reveal , then use the square as a guide for your
pencil when marking. Install the casings flush with the mark.
Install baseboard as close to level as possible, paying
attention to areas where a floor dips or slopes over a longer
length. In these instances, "cheat" the baseboard as close to
level as you can, leaving a gap below it. You can only cheat the
molding to less than the height of your base shoe, or quarter
round. These trim pieces will cover the gap because they are
thinner and easier to flex to the contour of your floor. Cheating
the moldi ng will also make cutting miters easier because they
will require less of a bevel.
use a spacer block as a guide to install moldings near a
ceiling. The spacer will allow you to easily follow any ups and
downs of an uneven ceiling, making the trim run parallel to it
rather than exactly level.
Use a T-bevel to measure for miter-cutting trim on out-of-
square corners. use a piece of scrap 1 x 4 to trace lines parallel
to the corner walls. Place the T-bevel so the blade runs from
the corner of the wall to the point where the li nes intersect.
Transfer this angle to your miter saw to cut your moldi ngs.
ESfahlisiliJlg Lel'el, PIUIIII) & Square 45
I Adding Doors
C
abinet doors are easy to make using 'h" nnis h-
grade plywood, and door-edge moldi ngs. When
hung \,vith semi-concealed overlay hi nges, do- it-
yoursel f panel -style doors require no compli cated
rout ing or morti sing techni ques. You can buil d them to
any size needed, and finish them to match your tastes.
Anothe r casy option is to buy ready- made cabi ne t
doors from a cabinet manufacturer or cabinet refacing
company, and hang them yourself using semi-
concealed hinges. You also can have a professional
cabinetmuker design and build custom cabinet doors
to your specifi cations- a good choice if you want
wood-fra med doors \\lith glass pane ls .
Other do- it -yoursel f door opt ions include sl iding
doors, solid-glass doors, and frame less doors (page
opposi te).
Easy-to-build overlay doors, made wi th 'I,' finish-grade
plywood panels framed with door-edge moldings, are
designed to overhang the face frame by about W' on each
side. semi-concealed overlay hinges, which require no
mortising, are attached to the back of the door and to the edge
of the face frame. This door style also can be adapted to make
folding doors.
Door-catch hardware is recommended if your doors do not use self-closing hinges, or if you want to lock them. Common types
of hardware include: utility hasp (AI, railer catch (B), keyed lock (C), brass door bolt (0), and magnetic push latch (E) commonly used
for solid glass doors.
I Door Options
Ready-made cabinet doors are available in stock sizes from
cabinet manufacturers and cabinet refacing companies. Or. you
can have doors custom-built by a professional cabinetmaker.
Install these doors with semi-concealed overlay hinge.
Pivot hinge
Glass doors give a contemporary look to built-in projects. Use
'/," tempered glass with smoothed edges, not ordinary window
glass, for doors. To install a glass door, drill holes in the top and
bottom of the door opening, and insert pivot-hinge bushings.
Mount the door using pivot-hinge brackets attached to the
glass with setscrews (inset).
Sliding doors are a good choice if limited space makes it
impractical to install swinging doors. Build a pair of sliding
doors from '/," finish-grade plywood, cut so they are 'h" shorter
than the opening and will overlap by about 2" in the center.
Attach door-track moldings to the top, bottom, and sides of the
door opening. Install the doors by sliding them up into the top
track, then lowering them into the bottom track .

(
Frameless doors are common on contemporary-style built-
ins constructed wi thout face frames - especially those made
with melamine-covered particleboard. Frameless doors are
mounted with concealed hinges attached to the inside surface
of the built-in.
Adding Doors I 47
I Basic Drawers
I
n its simplest fOfm, a drawer is noth ing Illore t han a
wooden box that slides in and out on a pe rma nent
shelf. Adding drmver sli de hard\,vare, a hardvvood
drawer face, and ornamental knobs or pull s makes
drmvers look more professional.
The drawer shown on the following page is si mpl e
to build and will work for any of the project s in thi s
book. The design is ca ll ed an "ove rlay" clrm-vcr because
it features a hardwood drawer face that overhangs the
cabinet face frame.
Ready-made hardwood drawer faces are sold by
compani es speciali zing i n cabinet ref;::lCing products.
You G ill also make yo ur O\vn clrm-ver faces by cli tt ing
hard\,vQod boards to t he proper size and usi ng a router
with an edgi ng bit to create a decorati ve Rai r.
A center-mounted drawer slide attac hed to the
botto m of the drmver a llows the drawer to gl ide
smoot hl y and acts as a support for drawers i nstall ed in
open cabine ts.
T he height, width, and depth of t he cabi ll et, and
the opening for the drmver must be carefull y measured
before t he drawer is built , to ensure a good Ilt .
Side panels: 1f2" dado
finish-grade
Bottom panel: W'
finish-grade plywood
Front panel : 112"
finish-grade plywood
Face: 3/4"
hardwood
The basic overlay drawer is made using y, " plywood for the
front, back, and side panels, and %" plywood for the bottom
panel. The bottom panel fits into a %" dado near the bottom of
the front and side panels, and is nai led to the bottom edge of
the back panel. The hardwood drawer face is screwed to the
drawer front from inside the drawer box.
I Directions: Overlay Drawer
INSTALL THE DRAWER TRACK
Insta ll the track for the drmver slide, foll ovving
the man ufacturer's directions, If the slide will be
supported by t he f ace frame and t he back panel ,
mount it using the rear bracket included with the slide
kit. I f the track will rest on a shelf, inst all it before the
ca bi net is assembl ed.
BUILD THE DRAWER FRAME
Measure the interior dime nsions of the face fra me
and the depth of t he cabinet from the back edge of
the face frame to the interior surface of t he back
panel. Then f ollow the dimensions l ist ed in t he t able
(opposite page) to cut the drawer pieces to size.
Tip: Measuring the Cabinet
Part Dimension
Sides length Depth of opening, minus 3"
height Height of opening, minus Vl'
Front length Width of opening, minus 1 y,"
height Height of opening, minus y, "
Back length Width of opening, minus 1 %"
height Height of opening, minus 1"
Bottom length Width of opening, minus 1"
height Depth of opening, minus 2'(' ''
Face length Width of opening, plus 1"
height Height of opening, plus 1"
Mount the track for the drawer slide with the rear bracket
when installing a drawer in an open cabinet
Outline '/-I "-wide dado grooves on t he interior
faces of the front and side panels. Hout '/," -deep dado
grooves along t he mmked outl ines, Ll si ng a router v,fith
a '/-1 " straight bi t and a st raightedge guide.
Cla mp and gl ue the drawer panels together with
the front and bac k panels between the side panels
and the top edges of the panels aligned. Heinforee the
joints with 21t finis h na ils driven t hrough the fron t and
back into the side panels.
ATTACH THE DRAWER BOTTOM
Let t he gl ue dry and remove the clamps. Slide the
bottom pane l into the dado grooves from the bac k of
the drawer box. Do not apply gl ue to t he dado grooves
or t he bottom paneL
Attac h t he back edge of the bottom pa nel to the
back panel, using brad na il s spaced every 4".
APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Finish the drav\rcr face to matc h your project, Cl nd 311mv
the fi nish to dry. Posit ion the drawer box against the
bac k side of the drawer face, so the face overhangs by Ihll
on t he sides and bottom, and J" on the top. Attach the
face with III screws driven [Tom ins ide t he drawer box.
Attac h t he drawer s lide insert to the drawer
bottom, foll mving the man ufacturer's d irections.
Attac h any drawer pull s or knobs as desi red, a nd sl ide
the drawer into t he cabinet , making Slire the drawer
slide and insert are aligned .
Front of
drawer
\
Outline and then rout a dado groove
along the bottom edge of the front and
side panels.
Slide the bottom panel into the dado
grooves of the drawer assembly.
Attach the f ace of the drawer by
driving screws through the front panel
into the face.
Basic Drawers 49
I Preparing for the Finish
A
properly prepared wood surface absorbs Rnish
materials evenly, focus ing attention on the quali ty
and color of t he wood and t he Rnish. A poorly prepared
surface foc uses attention on itself and its fl aws.
Sandi ng or fi lling scratc hes and gouges, removing
de nt s and stai ns, and ca refully fi ni sh sa nding are the
essential steps in prepari ng for t he fi nis h. \t\/ith many
woods (especiall y softwoods like pine) you can c reate
a more even finis h by sealing t he wood wit h sanding
sealer immedi ately after flnis h sandi ng, t hen sa nding
the sealer lightly \vith 220-gri t sandpaper after it dri es.
For except ionall y smoot h, rich Rnishes (particularly
on open-gra in hurdwoods like mahogany), Cl pply wood
grain fi ll e r to fi ll in c hecks and large pores, creat ing a
smooth-as-glass surface.
Before beginni ng the fina l preparati ons for
the finis h, sa nd the workpi ece \vith medium-grit
sa ndpaper to remove small scratc hes and ot her surface
problems- this is especially important if YOll did not
usc sanding as a fi na l stage of fi nis h remova l. Any
scratc hes, gouges, dents, or stains that survive the
intermediate sanding should be remedied before you
Rnish-sand.
Do your fi nal stCige of fi ni sh sa nding immediately
before you apply the Rni sh- the smooth surface created
by finish sa nding is eas ily scrCltc hed or discolored.
Sand wood with power sanders, like the random-orbit sander shown above, to make quick work of the initial finish sanding
stages, while producing a very smooth wood surface.
How to Prepare a Wood Surface
Get rid of glue. Dried glue won't absorb wood stain or any
other penetrating coloring agents, so glue spills and squeeze-
out show up as bright blotches if they're not removed by
sanding or scraping before the finish is applied.
Apply wood grain filler that approximately matches the
natural color of your wood. Available in light and dark colors,
grain filler creates a smooth surface in open wood grains.
Usually manufactured as a gel, it can be applied with a putty
knife or a rag, but the excess material should be wiped off with
a plastic scraper.
Sandpaper Grit Chart ~
Grit Task
80 to 100 Finish removal
120 t0150 Preliminary finish sanding
180 Final sanding for softwood; intermediate
stage of finish sanding for hardwood
220 Final sanding for hardwood
300 to 400 Sanding between finish layers
600 wet/dry Wet sanding of final finish layer
Choose the right sandpaper for the Jab. Aluminum
oxide and garnet are two common types. Aluminum
oxide is a good general-use product suitable for most
refinishing and finishing purposes. Garnet is usually
cheaper than aluminum oxide, but it wears out much
more quickly use sandpaper with the proper grit
(higher numbers indicate finer grit-see chart above).
Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear
topcoat material with one part topcoat solvent. Note: Use
the same topcoat material you plan to apply to the project.
Sanding sealer is used before coloring soft or open-grain
woods to achieve even stain penetration. TO apply, wipe on a
heavy coat, then wipe off the excess after a few minutes. Sand
lightly with 220-grit sandpaper when dry
Preparillgfor tile Fillish 51
I Surface preparation
Surface preparat ion ensures an even, high-qual ity
finis h. Fini sh-sa nd with progress ively Ilner grit s of
sandpaper, start ing \,vith IOO-grit . Hardwood requires
finer-grit sandpaper (a final sanding with 220-grit
is common) than soft wood (sand to I 50-grit). To
speed up the process, use a power sander for the first
stages of t he s<:I nding, then svvitch to hand-s<:t nding to
complete the process.
Fini sh sanding alone creates a smooth surface,
but because \,vood a bsorbs stai n at different ratcs,
the color can be bl otchy and dark. Scaling wood with
sanding sealer (eit her a commercial product or your
own concoct ion of thinned fin is h) evens out the stain-
<Jbsorpt ion rates and yields a lighter. more even fin ish.
Fill i ng the gr<:li n wi t h a cornrnerci<1\ p<Jste filler creates
a final fini sh that feels as smooth as it looks.
I How to Finish-sand
Use sanding sealer or grain filler for a fine finish. Finish
sanding alone (left) can leave a blotchy surface when stain is
applied, but a coat of sanding sealer (center) or grain-filler (right),
or both, allows you to create a smoother, more even finish.
Finish-sand all surfaces with 1S0-grit
sandpaper, following the direction of
the grain. Use a finishing sander on flat
surfaces and specialty sanding blocks
on contours. When sanding hardwood,
switch to 1BO-grit paper and sand again.
Raise the wood grain by dampening
the surface with a wet rag. Let the wood
dry, then skim the surface wi th a fine
abrasive pad, following the grain.
use sanding blocks to hand-sand
the entire workpiece with the finest-
grit paper in the sanding sequence.
Sand until all sanding marks are gone
and the surface is smooth. (Use bright
side lighti ng to check your progress.) If
using sanding sealer, do that now.
I How to Use Sanding Sealer
Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part clear
topcoat material (not water-based) with one part topcoat
solvent. Note: use the same topcoat material you plan to apply
to the project.
Wipe on a heavy coat of the sealer. then wipe off the
excess after a few minutes. When dry, sand lightly with 220-grit
sandpaper.
I How to Apply Grain Filler
After finish sanding, use a rag or
putty knife to spread a coat of grain filler
onto the wood surface. With a polishing
motion, work the filler into the grain.
Let the filler dry until it becomes cloudy
(usually about 5 minutes).
Remove excess filler by drawing a
plastic scraper across the grain of the
wood at a 45
0
angle. Let the grain fi ller
dry overnight.
Lightly hand-sand the surface,
following the direction of the grain, with
220-grit sandpaper. Finally, dampen a
clean cloth with mineral spirits and use
it to thoroughly clean the surface.
Preparillg/or tile Fillish 53
I Installing Cabinets
C
abinets must be firmly anchored to wall st uds,
and they must be plumb and level when install ed.
The best v,ray to ensure thi s is by <:Ittnc hing a ledger
boa rd to the vVCI\I to assist in the install at ion. As a
general rule, install the uppe r cabi nets first so your
access is not impeded by t he base cabinets. (Although
some professionals prefer to install the base cabi net s
fi rst so they can be used to support the uppers during
install ation.) It's also best to begin i n a corner and
wor k outward from there.
Tools & Materials ~
Handscrew clamps Cabinets
Level Trim molding
Hammer Toe-kick molding
Uti lity kn ife Filler strips
Nail set valance
Stepladder 6d finish nails
Drill Finish washers
Counterbore drill bit #10 x 4" wood screws
Cordless screwdriver #8 x 2W' screws
Jig saw 3" drywall screws
I How to Fit a Corner Cabinet
II'
54 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUtLT-tNS
Stock cabinets are sold in boxes that are keyed to door
and drawer packs (you need to buy these separately). It is
important that you realize this when you are estimating your
project costs at the building center (often a door pack will cost
as much or more than the cabinet). Also allow plenty of time
for assembling the cabinets out of the box. It can take an hour
or more to put some more complex cabinets together.
Before installation, test-fit corner and
adjoining cabinets to make sure doors and
handles do not interfere with each other.
If necessary, increase the clearance by
pulling the corner cabinet away from the
side wall by no more than 4" . To maintain
even spacing between the edges of the
doors and the cabinet corner, cut a filler
strip and attach it to the corner cabinet or
the adjoining cabinet. Filler strips should
be made from material that matches the
cabinet doors and face frames.
How to Install Wall Cabinets
1
Position a corner upper cabinet on a ledger and hold it in
place, making sure it is resting cleanly on the ledger. Drill ~ , , " pilot
holes into the wall studs through the hanging strips at the top,
rear of cabinet Attach the cabinet to the wall with 2'h" screws.
DO not tighten fully until all cabinets are hung.
3
Position the adjoining cabinet on the ledger, tight against
the corner cabinet or filler strip. Clamp the corner cabinet
and the adjoining cabinet together at the top and bottom.
Handscrew clamps will not damage wood face frames.
2
Filler
/ strip
Attach a filler strip to the front edge of the cabinet, if
needed. Clamp the filler in place, and drill counterbored pilot
holes through the cabinet face frame, near hinge locations.
Attach filler to cabinet with 2'h" cabinet screws or flathead
wood screws.
Check the front cabinet edges or face frames for plumb.
Drill ~ , , . ' pilot holes into wall studs through hanging strips in
rear of cabinet Attach cabinet with 2'1," screws. Do not tighten
wall screws fully until all cabinets are hung.
/lIs/ailiJ1g Cabinets 55
Attach the corner cabinet to the adjoining cabinet. From
inside corner cabinet, drill pilot holes through face frame. Join
cabinets with sheet-metal screws.
7
Join frameless cabinets with #8 x , %" panhead wood
screws or wood screws wi th decorative washers. Each pair of
cabinets should be joined by at least four screws.
6
Position and attach each additional cabinet. Clamp
frames together, and drill counterbored pilot holes through
side of face frame. Join cabinets with wood screws. Drill '/,,"
pilot holes in hanging strips, and attach cabinet to studs with
wood screws.
Fill gaps between the cabinet and wall or neighboring
appliance with a filler strip. Cut the filler strip to fit the space,
then wedge wood shims between the filler and the wall to
create a friction fit that holds it in place temporarily Drill
counterbored pilot holes through the side of the cabinet (or
the edge of the face frame) and attach filler with screws.
Remove the temporary ledger. Check the cabinet run for plumb, and adjust if
necessary by placing wood shims behi nd cabinet, near stud locations. Tighten wall
screws completely. Cut off shims with utility knife.
12
10
Use trim moldings to cover any gaps
between cabi nets and walls. Stain
moldings to match cabinet finish.
Attach decorative valance above sink. Clamp valance to
edge of cabinet frames, and drill counterbored pilot holes
through cabinet frames into end of valance. Attach with sheet-
meta I screws.
Install the cabinet doors. If necessary, adjust the hinges so
that the doors are straight and plumb.
/lIs/ailiJ1g Cabinets 57
How to Install Base Cabinets
1
v
Begin the installation with a corner cabinet. Draw plumb
lines that intersect the 34'// reference line (measured from the
high point of the floor) at the locations for the cabinet sides.
3
Place cabinet in corner. Make sure the cabinet is plumb and
level. If necessary, adjust by driving wood shims under cabinet
base. Be careful not to damage flooring. Drill ,," pilot holes
through the hanging strip and into wall studs. Tack the cabinet
to the wall wi th wood screws or wallboard screws.
Clamp the adjoining cabinet to the corner cabinet. Make sure the new cabinet is
plumb, then drill counterbored pilot holes through the cabinet sides or the face frame
and filler strip. Screw the cabinets together. Drill 'h," pilot holes through hanging strips
and into wall studs. Tack the cabinets loosely to the wall studs with wood screws or
wallboard screws.
use a jig saw to cut any cabinet
openings needed in the cabinet backs
(for example, in the sink base seen here)
for plumbing, wiring or heating ducts.
5
Position and attach additional cabinets, maki ng sure the
frames are aligned and the cabinet tops are level. Clamp
cabinets together, then attach the face frames or cabinet sides
with screws driven into pilot holes. Tack the cabinets to the
wall studs, but don't drive screws too tight- you may need to
make adjustments once the entire bank is installed.
7
Make sure all cabinets are level. If necessary, adjust by
drivi ng shims underneath cabinets. Place shims behind the
cabinets near stud locations to fill any gaps. Tighten wall
screws. Cut off shims with utility knife.
use trim moldings to cover gaps
between the cabinets and the wall or
floor. The toe-kick area is often covered
with a strip of wood finished to match
the cabinets or painted black.
Hang cabinet doors and mount drawer fronts, then test to make sure they close
smoothly and the doors fit evenly and flush. Self-closing cabinet hinges (by far the
most common type installed today) have adjustment screws that allow you to make
minor changes to the hardware to correct any problems.
/lIs/ailiJ1g Cal)iJlelS 59
I Creating a Kitchen Island
K
itchen islands can be created using a \,vhole range
of methods, from repurposing an old table to
fine, Clistom \,voodworking. But perhaps the easies t
(a nd most fai lsafe) way to add the conveniences and
conviviality of a kit chen island is to make one from
stock base cabinets. The cabinets and countertops
don't have to match you r kitc he n ca binetry, but that
is ce rtainly an option you should conside r. "'!he n
designing and positioning your new island, be sure
to maintain a minimum distance of 3 ft. bet\veen the
island and other cabinets (4 ft. or more is better).
r
1
Tools & Materials ~
Marker
Drill/driver
2 x 4 cleats
Pneumatic nailer and
2" finish nails or
hammer and
6d finish nails
2 base cabinets (approx.
36" wide x 24" deep)
Countertop
Wallboard screws
TWO base cabinets arranged back-to-back make a sturdy kitchen island base that's easy to install. When made with the same
style cabi nets and countertops as the rest of the kitchen, the island is a perfect match.
How to Create a Stock-cabinet Island
Set two base cabinets back-to-back in position on the floor
and outline the cabinet corners onto the flooring. Remove the
cabinets and draw a new outline inside the one you just created
to allow for the thickness of the cabinet sides (usually 3/,").
Join the two base cabinets together by driving 1'1,'
wallboard screws through the nailing strips on the backs of
the cabinets from each direction. Make sure the cabinet sides
are flush and aligned. Lower the base cabinets over the cleats.
Check the cabinets for level, and shim underneath the edges
of the base if necessary.
Cut 2 x 4 cleats to fit insi de the inner outline to provide
nailing surfaces for the cabinets. Attach the cleats to the floor
wi th screws or nails. TIP: Create an L-shape cleat for each
inside corner.
Attach the cabinets to the floor cleats using 6d finish nails.
Drill pilot holes for nails, and recess nail heads with a nail set.
Make a countertop and install it on top of the cabinets.
Creatillg a Kitchell Islalld 61
I Making Countertops
M
ore than si mply a work surface, a kitchen
countertop is an important part of many buil t- ins
that can dazzle with the look-nt-me pi zzazz of grani te,
or bring together a country theme with soapstone and
butcher block. There are many choices in COllntertops,
from the less expensive laminate and post-form,
through cerami c and stone tile, to high-end stai nlcss-
steel, granite and marble.
Countertop opt ions for your buil t- in depend on
how much you are wi lli ng to spend, whether you will
Butcher Block ~
Typical countertop material is 1%" wide and 25" deep,
availabl e in a number of lengths from 4 ft to 12 ft. long.
be doing the \,vork yourself or contracting out, and
what look you want: to achi eve. I n thi s chapter we will
cover several countertop options, identifying their
pluses and minuses, and giving install at ion di rections
for those you can install yourself.
Step-by-step instructions wit h photographs are
inc luded for t\VO countertop projects: post-form
laminated, custom laminate.
End grain
Face grain
Edge grain
Butcher block that's constructed with the end grain
oriented up is the most deSirable, but it is relatively hard
to find and fairly expensive. Material with the face grain or
edge grain facing up is more common and more affordable
(prefinished, it still runs around $30 per lineal foot).
A well-chosen countertop can give your built-in a high-end appearance and a professional finish.
!'\lIakillg e mlllterrops 63
I Installing a Post-form Countertop
P
ost-form laminate counter-
tops are avail able in stock
<J nd custom colors. Pre- mitered
sect ions afe also avai lable. If the
COllntertop has an exposed end,
YOLI \vill need an endeap kit that
contains a prcshapcd strip of
matching laminate. Post-form
countertops have either a waterfall
edge or a no-drip edge. Stock
colors a f C typicall y available in
4-,6-,8-, j 0- and 12-foot st raight
lengt hs and 6- and 8-foot mi tered
lengths.
Materials and tools for installing
a post-form countertop include:
wood for shimming (A), take-up bol ts for
drawing miters together (81, household
iron (CI, endcap laminate to match
countertop (D), end cap battens (EI,
file (F), adjustable wrench (G), buildup
blocks (H), compass (I), fasteners (I),
silicone caulk and sealer (K) .
Post-form countertops are among the easiest and cheapest to install. They are a good choice for beginning DIYerS, but the
design and color options are fairly limited.
OPTION: Use a jig saw fitted with a downstroke blade to cut
post-form if the saw foot must rest on the good surface of the
post form. If you are unable to locate a downstroke blade, you
can try applyi ng tape over the cutting lines, but you are still
li kely to get tear-out from a normal upstroke jig saw blade.
Tools & Materials ~
Tape measure
Framing square
Pencil
Straightedge
C-clamps
Hammer
Level
Caul king gun
Jig saw
Compass
Adjustable wrench
Belt sander
Drill and spade bit
Cordless screwdriver
Post-form countertop
Wood shims
Take-up bolts
Drywall screws
Wire brads
Endcap laminate
Silicone caulk
Wood glue.
How to Install a Post-form Countertop
Use a framing square to mark a cutting line on the bottom
surface of the countertop. Cut the countertop with a jig saw,
using a clamped straight-edge as a guide.
Attach the battens from the endcap kit to the edge of the
countertop, using carpenter's glue and small brads. Sand out
any unevenness with a belt sander
Installil1g a Post -form COIlllfer/op 65
Hold the end cap laminate against the end, slightly
overlapping the edges. Activate adhesive by pressing an iron
set at medium heat agai nst the endcap. Cool with a wet cloth,
then file the end cap laminate flush wi th the edges of the
countertop.
!i
Because walls are usually uneven, use a compass to
trace the wall outli ne onto the backsplash. Set the compass
arms to match the widest gap, then move the compass along
the length of the wall to transfer the outline to the top of
the backsplash. Apply painter's tape to the top edge of the
backsplash, following the scribe line (inset).
Position the countertop on base cabinets. Make sure the
front edge of the countertop is parallel to the cabinet faces.
Check the countertop for level. Make sure that drawers and
doors open and close freely. If needed, adjust the countertop
with shims.
Remove the countertop. use a bel t sander to grind
the backsplash to the scribe line. Replace and install the
countertop.
Tips for Installing Post-form Countertops ~
Mark the cutout for a self-rimming
sink by tracing it. Position the sink
upside down on the countertop and
trace its outline. Remove the sink
and draw a cutting line %" inside the
sink outline.
Drill a starter hole just inside the
cutting line. Make sink cutouts with
a jig saw Support the cutout area
from below so that the falling cutout
does not damage the cabinet or
countertop.
Apply a bead of silicone caulk to
the edges of the mitered countertop
sections. Force the countertop
pieces tightly together.
From underneath the countertop, install and tighten
miter take-up bolts Position the countertop tightly against
the wall and fasten it to the cabinets by driving wallboard
screws up through corner brackets and into the countertop.
Screws should be long enough to provide maximum holding
power, but not long enough to puncture the laminate surface.
Seal the seam between the backsplash and the wall with
silicone caulk. Smooth the bead with a wet fingertip. Wipe
away excess caulk.
Installi l1g a Post -form COIlllfer/op 67
I Building a Custom Laminate Countertop
B
uildi ng your own c ustOIll la minate countertop using
sheets of plasti c laminate and part ic leboard offers
two ctdva ntages: the countertop YOLI get \,vill be less
expe nsive tha n a custom-orde red countertop, and it
will allm,v YOLI more opti ons in te rms of colors and edge
t reatme nts. A cOllnte rtop made with laminates also can
be tail ored to fit any space, un like prcmadc countcrtop
materi al that is a standard wi dth (usually 25").
Laminate commonly is sold in 8- ft. or j 2-ft. lengt hs
that are about Ihol! t hic k. [n widt h, they range from 30
'1
stri ps to 48
11
sheets. The 30" strips <:Ire sized specifl call y
fo r countertops, all owing for a 251!-wide COll ntertop, a
I lh" wide front edge st ri p and a short bac ksplas h.
The plast ic laminate is bonded to the parti cle-
board or j'vl DF subst rate wit h contact cement
(although most profess iona l install ers usc adhesives
that are avai labl e onl y to the trades) . Water-base
contact cement is nonAammabl e and nontoxic,
but solvent- base contact cement (whi ch requires a
res pi rator and is hi ghly Aa mmable) creates a muc h
stronger, more durable bond.
Tools & Materials ~
Tape measure
Framing square
Straightedge
Scoring tool
paint roller
3-way clamps
Caul k gun
J-roller
Miter saw
Scribing compass
Circular saw
Screwdriver
Belt sander
File
Router
%" particleboard
Sheet laminate
Contact cement and
thinner
wood glue
Drywall screws.
Fabricating your own custom countertop from particleboard and plastiC laminate is not exactly an easy DIY proJect, but it gives
you unlimited options and the results can be very satisfyi ng.
Tips for Working with Laminate ~
Measure along tops of base cabinets to determine the size of the countertop. If wall corners are not square, use a
framing square to establish a reference line (R) near the middle of the base cabinets, perpendicular to the front of the
cabinets. Take four measurements (A, B, c, D) from the reference line to the cabinet ends. Allow for overhangs by adding
1" to the length for each exposed end, and 1" to the width (E).
Backsplash substrate
Countertop substrate
Layout cutting lines on the particleboard so you can rip-cut the substrate and build-up strips to size, using a
framing square to establish a reference line. Cut core to size using a circular saw with clamped straightedge as a guide.
Cut 4" strips of particleboard for the backsplash, and for joint support where sections of countertop core are butted
together. Cut 3" strips for edge buildups.
BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lamil1al e COIllller/op 69
How to Build a Custom Laminate Countertop
1
1

Join the countertop substrate pieces on the bottom side.
Attach a 4" particleboard Joint support across the seam, using
carpenter's glue and 1 %" wallboard screws.
2
-
Attach 3"-wide edge buildup strips to the bottom of the
countertop, using 1%" wallboard screws. Fill any gaps on the
outside edges with latex wood patch, and then sand the edges
with a belt sander.
TO determine the size of the laminate
top, measure the countertop substrate.
Laminate seams should not overlap the
substrate. Add y," trimming margin to
both the length and width of each piece.
Measure laminate needed for face and
edges of backsplash, and for exposed
edges of countertop substrate. Add '(," to
each measurement
4
Cut laminate by scoring and breaking it. Draw a cutting
line, then etch along the line wi th a utility knife or other sharp
cutting tool. Use a straightedge as a guide. Two passes of
scoring tool will help laminate break cleanly.
Bend laminate toward the scored line until the sheet
breaks cleanly. For better control on narrow pieces, clamp a
straightedge along the scored line before bending laminate.
wear gloves to avoid bei ng cut by sharp edges.
OPTION: Some laminate installers prefer to cut laminate
wi th special snips that resemble avaiator snips. Available
from laminate suppliers, the snips are faster than scori ng
and snapping, and less likely to cause cracks or tears in
the material. You'll still need to square the cut edges with a
trimmer or router.
Create tight-piloted seams with plastic laminate by using
a router and a straight bit to trim edges that will butt together
Measure from cutti ng edge of the bit to edge of the router
baseplate (A). Place laminate on scrap wood and align edges.
To guide the router, clamp a straightedge on the laminate at
distance A plus v." , parallel to laminate edge. Trim laminate.
BllildiJlg a ellS/Om Lamil1ale COIllller/op 71
Apply laminate to sides of countertop first Using a paint
roller, apply two coats of contact cement to the edge of the
countertop and one coat to back of laminate. Let cement dry
according to manufacturer's directions. Posi tion laminate
carefully, then press against edge of countertop. Bond by
rolling wi th a !-roller.
9
\
Use a router and flush-cutti ng bi t to trim edge strip flush with
top and bottom surfaces of countertop substrate. At edges
where router cannot reach, trim excess laminate with a file.
Apply laminate to remai ning edges, and trim with router.
I
)
Test-fit laminate top on countertop
substrate. Check that laminate overhangs
all edges. At seam locations, draw a
reference line on core where laminate
edges will butt together. Remove laminate.
Make sure all surfaces are free of dust,
then apply one coat of contact cement
to back of laminate and two coats to
substrate. Place spacers made of %"-
thick scrap wood at 6" intervals across
countertop core. Because contact cement
bonds instantly, spacers allow laminate
/
to be positioned accurately over core
without bonding. Align laminate with seam
reference line. Beginning at one end,
remove spacers and press laminate to
countertop core.
11
Roll the entire surface with a J-roller to bond the laminate to
the substrate. Clean off any excess contact cement wi th a soft
cloth and mi neral spirits.
Apply contact cement to remaining
substrate and next piece of laminate. Let
the cement dry, then position laminate on
spacers, and carefully align the butt seam.
Beginning at seam edge, remove spacers
and press laminate to the countertop
substrate.
cutting bit
Remove excess laminate with a router and flush-cutting bit.
At edges where router cannot reach, trim excess laminate with
a file. Countertop is now ready for final trimming with bevel -
cutting bit.
15bevel-
cutting bit
Finish-trim the edges wi th router and 15bevel-cutting bit.
set bit depth so that the bevel edge is cut only on top laminate
layer. Bit should not cut into vertical edge surface.
14
cut 1 Y."-wide strips of %" plywood to form an overhanging
scribing strip for the backsplash. Attach to the top and sides of
the backsplash substrate with glue and wallboard screws. Cut
laminate pieces and apply to exposed sides, top and front of
backsplash. Trim each piece as it is applied.
\.-

TIP: File all edges smooth. Use downward file strokes to
avoid chipping the laminate.
15
Test-fit the countertop and backsplash. Because your walls
may be uneven, use a compass to trace the wall outline onto
the backsplash scribing strip. Use a belt sander to grind the
backsplash to scribe li ne.
16
Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of the
backsplash.
18
I
Position the backsplash on the countertop, and clamp
it into place with bar clamps. Wipe away excess caulk, and let
dry completely.
screw 2" wallboard screws through the
countertop and into the backsplash core.
Make sure screw heads are countersunk
completely for a tight fit against the base
cabinet Install countertops.
I Creating Wood
Countertop Edges
F
or an eleaant Cl dded tOllch on a laminate
li se hardwood edges and shape them
with a router. Hout the edges before attachi ng the
backsplas h to the countertop. Wood caps ca n also
be added to the top edge of the bac ksplas h. A simple
edge is best for easy cl eaning.
Tools & Materials
Hammer
Nail set
Belt sander wi th 120-grit
sanding belt
3-way clamps
Router
1 x 2 hardwood strips
Wood glue
Finish nails
Incorporating hardwood into the countertop edging
presents a wealth of attractive and very durable solutions for
the nosing of a plastic laminate countertop.
I How to Build Solid Hardwood Edges
Apply laminate to the top of the countertop before
attaching the edge strip. Attach the edge strip flush with the
surface of the laminate, using wood glue and fi nish nails.
Mold the top and bottom edges of the strip with a router
and profiling bit, if desired. Stain and fi nish the wood as
desired.
I How to Build Coved Hardwood Edges
Cut 1 x 2 hardwood strips to fit the
edges of the countertop. Sand the strips
smooth. Miter-cut the inside and outside
corners.
Attach edge strips to the countertop
with wood glue and 3-way clamps. Drill
pilot holes, then attach strip with finish
nails. Recess nail heads with a nail set or,
use a pneumatic finish nailer with 2" nails.
Sand the edge strips flush with the
top surface of the countertop, using a
belt sander and 120-grit sandpaper.
Apply laminate to the edge and top of the countertop after
the hardwood edge has been sanded flush.
Cut cove edge with a router and cove bit with ball-bearing
pilot Smooth cove with 220-grit sandpaper. Stain and finish
exposed wood as desired.
Crentillg Wood COIO/terrop Edges 77
I Window Seat
O
ne great way to add cozy charm to a room is to build
a \"lindow seat. Not on ly do window seats make a
room more invit ing, they provide fu nctional benellts as
well, part icularly "vhen you surround them with built- in
shelving. The "vindow seat shown here has a base built
from above-t he-refrigerator cabinets. This size provides
just the right height (when placed on a 3" curb) to create
a comfortab le seat.
Above the cabinets and Aanking celch side is a
site-made bookcase. A top shelf bridges t he t\iva cases
and t ies t he whole thi ng toget he r-\,vhile creating st ill
more space for storage or display.
Tools
Mi ter S3\Y
Table saw
Ci rcular saw
Drill/driver
Level
St ud finder
Hammer
Tape measure
Nail set
Pneumatic nailer/compressor
Hauter
Shooting board
Sander
Fra ming square
Materials
2) lSI! upper refrigerator
cabinets
2) %" x 4 x 8 ft. pes. M DF or
plywood
Screws/nail s
I ) ' I , " ~ x 4 x 8 ft. laua n plywood
Caulk
Primer
Paint
Cutting List
Part No. Desc. Size
A 2 Outer standard % x llY2 x 771//
B 2 Inner standard 3/4 x 111fl X 63
1
//
C 6 Shelf -i x 16
1
/) x 1 ]1//
D Top shelf 0/4 x 11
1
/ .. x 70W
E Top bocker 1f4x13
1
/4 x71 %"
F 2 Bllckers 1/. x 171/1 x 63
1
/4 "
G Seotboord 0/" 25 x 74"
Material Part No. Desc. Size Material
MOF H 2 Bridge "binets 15 h x 36" w Stock "binets
MDF 2 End panel 'I, x 24 x I B" MDF
MDF J 4 Nailer 3/. x 21/1 x 15" Plywood
MDF K ledger 3/. x 2111 x 72" Plywood
Plywood L 2 Curb rim o/4 x3x72" MDF
Plywood M 4 Curb strut 0/4 x 3 X 221/1" MDF
MDF N Cabinet nailer o/4 x3x72" MDF
Wi l1dOHl Seal 81
How to Build a Window Seat
1
The key control point for laying this project out is the center
of the window sill. Measure and mark it
After striking a level line at cabinet height, measure from
the floor in three locations to make sure the cabinets will fit
3
Strike a plumb line on each edge of the cabinet run. use a
Hoot level and strike the line from floor to ceiling.
LAY OUT THE PROJECT
T his window seat is integrated v,Iith the exist ing windO\v
and trimwork. T he key control point for laying out
the base ca binets is locating the center of the v,Iindow
openi ng. It is al so important that the cabinets sit level
both left -to-right and front -to- back. Level cabinet tops
make installi ng the uppe r cabinet cases mLl ch eas ier.
Before YOLI begi n building, re locate or re move a ny
electrical out lets t hat' ll be cove red by the ca binet,
according to you r local e lectri cal codes . For exa mple,
you ca n't just dead-end wires and leave them buri ed
in a wa ll. T hey usua ll y need to be capped and placed
in a junction box with a re movabl e faceplate that is
access ibl e (vv hi c h may mean making a c utout in t he
back of a cabinet panel).
Mark the center of the window opening on the
sill (photo I ). Use a square and a level to t ransfer
that mark plumb down the wa ll to t he ca binet he ight
locat ion. At t he he ight of the cabine ts mark a level
line. i\lleas ure from the Roa r up to the level line in
severa l locations to make sure the cabinet s will fit all
along their enti re run (photo 2). If t hey don't fit , make
the prope r adjustments; that is, raise the line . Ca binets
that dont come up to the li ne must be shimmed so
they are level. Using an elec troni c stud finder, Rnd and
mark the wa ll stud locat ions beneat h the windO\v and
on each side in t he proj ect area. Note: You should find
jack and king stlids directly on ei ther side of the window
and a header above the windollJ. Deter/nine the overall
span of the cabinets you. choose. For the project ShOl lnt
here, the bank will be 6 ft . long, nwasuringfrom
edge to outside-edge. Use a level to mark tile outside
edges of the cabinet run Oil tlte wall. Mark plumb lines
down to the floor and "1' to the ceiling (photo 3).
INSTALL THE BASE CABINETS
With a ll the layout lines mar ked out, the next step
is to insta ll the ca binets that form the base of the
windmv seat. T hi s dete rmines t he control points for
the rest of the project layout. Use a pull -saw and sharp
c hi se l to remove base molding between t he verti cal
layo Llt lines (photo 4).
To e levate the ca binets that \vill be used fo r the
seat to a more comfortable he ight , and to create a
space, build a s hort curb t hat matches the
footprint of t he scat. Si nce t he curb will not be visibl e,
you can usc j ust about any shop scraps you may have
to build it. The one s hown here is made with iVlDF
sheet stock that is rip-cut into 3"-wide strips. Then
the curb is assembl ed into a ladder shape by attaching
struts between the front and back curb members with
glue and sc rews (photo 5). Once the ladder is buil t,
set the cabinets on the curb so the cabi net fronts
and si des al ign wit h t he curb. Ma rk the location of
the backs of the ca binets onto the top of the curb
and then remove the cabinets. Attach a nail er to the
curb just behind t he line for the cabinet backs . Then,
posit ion the curb tight against the wall in the area
where the base molding has been removed. Attach it
to t he si ll plate of t he wa ll wi th na il s or screws.
To support the bac k edge of t he seat board,
attac h a ledger to the wa ll. The top of the ledge r (we
used a 2 'j, "-wide st rip of pl ywood) should be Aush
wit h the tops of the cabinets when they are install ed
on top of the curb. Att ach the ledger with panel
adhesive and nai ls or screws dri ven at stud locati ons
(photo 6). Measu re between the top of t he curb and
ledger and cut a few nail ers to t his length .
Assemble the curb members into a ladder-like frame and
secure the butt joints with glue and screws driven through
pilot holes.
4
Because a pull-type saw requires almost zero clearance
at the bottom of a cut (where it would hit the floor in this
application), it's great for removing the base molding so the
cabinet carcases fit tight to the wall.
Attach a ledger for the back edge of the seatboard to the
wall, using panel adhesive and screws or nails driven at stud
locations.
Wil1dolV Seal 83
Cut nailers to fit between the ledger and the curb and attach
them to the wall at the ends of the project area.
For floors that are out of level, shim the cabinets up to the
level line to keep them in a level plane.
After clamping the cabinet face-frames together, pre-
dri ll and fasten them together with screws.
Attach t hem to the wedl at the e nds of the project ,
and add a couple near t he center to help support t he
ledge r (photo 7).
Set t he cabinets in posi ti on on t he curb, \,vith t he
back edges aga inst the nai ler. Drive shims betwee n the
curb and the Aoor if necessary to level the cabinets
(photo 8). Fasten t he cabi nets to t he nailer st rip.
Pre-dri ll , coun tersink a nd face-fasten the face frames
together \<\I ith screws to form a "gang" of cabinets
(photo 9). If YOLI are lI sing cabinets t hat have no face
frames, screw the cabinet sides together as directed by
the cabinet manufacturer. Cut off shims as necessary.
If the ends of your window seat are open (that
is, they don' t butt up against a wall ), cut end panels
to cover t he ends of the cabinets and the open space
behind them. Use 1/4
11
plywood or hardboard. You may
need to remove a slive r of t he baseboard on each side
so you can butt t he panels up aga inst the \.va ll. Attach
the panel to t he cabinet ends and t he curb with pa nel
adhesive.
Cut, rout and install the seat top. Cutting
a 74" x 25" blank from M DF (medium-density
fiberboard) works wel l. This will create a one inch
overha ng at the front and sides of t he cabinets.
Before installing the seat top, rout a profile on the front
and side edges. Don't rout the back.
Use <:I route r <:Ind bit wit h <:I decorat ive profi le (suc h <:IS
<:I n ogee or a plain roundover) to smoot h the hard edge
of the M OF (photo 10). Profiling the edge reduces the
chance that the edge wi ll chip or crack. Pos ition the
seat top on top of the cabinets and the wal l ledger and
faste n it from the interior of the cabinets using coarse-
threaded drywall screws. A bead of panel adhes ive
along t he top edges of the c<:l binet a nd the ledger helps
ensure a sol id connecti on.
CUT THE CASE STOCK
The bookcase portion of the window seat can be
assembled from sheet stock (M OF is a good c hoice)
or solid Ix stock, such as I x 12 pine or poplar (pine
is cheaper, popla r is st ronger and takes paint better)
or hmd,vood like mCiple, oCl k, or cheny for staining.
WhCltever materiCi I you choose, install CI backer sheet
of '/," pl ywood that fi ts into rabbets in the backs of the
case stoc k to help ensure square assembly and provide
a st rong connecti on point to the wal l.
The ac tual width of I x 12 di me nsion lumber is
1 J 112", so if usi ng sheet stock, rip all pieces to width .
Any edges that face the interior of the room need to
be sanded smooth to remove SClW marks. Note that
it's usuCi ll y eas ie r to dress t he fac tory edge than the
edge cut on-site. Running the pieces on a joi nter or
route r table is a fast, accurate ,vay to dress the edge. A
belt sa nder or finish sander with fine grit paper works
too, but be careful not to remove too much stoc k. Of
course, you ca n also hand sand it.
Cut <:I 1/2 1! ,vide by 1/.,," deep rabbet (see drawing, page
81) on the backs of the standards (photo I I). You can
do t his ,vith a tabl e saw (eit her make multiple passes
on the table saw to remove stoc k or use a stacked dado
head cutter blade); using a router with a rabbeting bit ;
or on a jointer or router table. The remainder of the
layout and sizing must be registered from the seat top
to accommodate specifi c si te conditi ons.
INSTALL THE TOP-SHELF BACKER
The remaining measurements for the backer and
shel f dimensions are now determined by the distance
between your window casing, vertical layout lines, and
ceiling height. They must be si te-measured for accuracy.
Layout the top shelf backer (photo 12). It should
fit benveen the cei li ng a nd t he top of the wi ndow
cCisi ng- and bet,,\leen your verti cal layout lines. To
calcu late the top shelf backer dimensions, measure
between the ve rt ical layout lines. Subtract %,1> . To
calcu late top shelf backer height, measure fro m the
top of the window cas ing to the ceili ng. Subtract 1/8" .
Clamp all work securely before milling the y, x % rabbet.
for the backers with a router, which will provide safe, accurate
cuts. The remainder of the layout and sizing must be registered
from the seat top to accommodate specific site conditions.
12
use the layout lines to size the top shelf backer and the
backers for the vertical shelf units.
Wil1dolV Seal 85
[nstall the top shelf backer t ight to t he ceil ing by
fastening to st uds wit h fi nis h nails or sc rews.
FABRICATE & ASSEMBLE THE BOOKCASES
The bookcases' outs ide edges run from the seat-top to
the ceili ng. T he inside edges run from the seat-top to
the top of t he \vindow casi ng. Me<1s lIre a nd cut each
vertical bookcase member to le ngt h. O n a fl at surface,
lay a[[ t he bottoms of the bookcase members flus h
and mark out your shelves (photo [3). Use a framing
square to mar k t hem. Keep in mind t he re is a bottom
Marking layout lines all at once using a
framing square is a good way to keep lines
parallel from shelf-to-shelf. Make sure all
bottoms are held flush during the marking
procedure.
Install the rest of the shelves taking
care to drive fasteners straight to prevent
blow-outs in the shelf stock.
shelf that sits di rectly above t he seat top. The top shelf
is installed later.
Layout and cut the backer stock. To calcu [ate
the widt h, measure the distance bc(\vcc n the
\vi ndow casing and t he vertical layout li ne, minus 1// .
To calculate the height, measure the distance from
the seat top to t he bottom edge of the top bac ker and
subtract 11/', ".
Asse mb[e the cabinet sides and t he bac kers. This is
an ideal appli cat ion for a pneumatic 1/./ crovm stapler,
but it can also be done effect ive ly by pre-dril [ing and
5
Hold the shelf assembly as tight as possible to the window
trim, seat top and wall then fasten.
screwing, or by lI sing a pneumati c finish nail er. Use a
framing square as a reference to be Slire the cabinet
carcascs arc as square as poss ible during assembl y.
iVlcasure, c ut, and insta ll shelves at the layout lines
(photo J 4). Fasten through the ca binet carcass into the
shelves. Pre-drill and countersink jf using sc re\vs.
INSTAll THE BOOK CASES & TOP SHELF
Butt the left bookcase to the window trim and fasten
it to a wa ll stud wit h a few screws or nail s dr iven
through the backer (photo 15). Make sure the case
16
For paint grade units, caulk any gaps that appear to make
shadow lines disappear You can caulk the gap on paint grade
shelves too. Be extra diligent in wiping down the material after
caulking.
sit s as ti ghtly to the wa ll , seat top, and \vindow trim
as poss ibl e . Expect to make some on-site corrections
as necessary to accommodate out-oF-plumb \.va ll s
or other imperfect ions. Sl ight gaps can be caulked
later. Repeat for t he right-side bookcase and then
measure, c ut and insta ll the top shelf. If pa int ing,
caulk wherever necessary (photo 16) . Fill exposed
holes for nails and screws, then pri me and paint or
appl y anothe r nni sh of your choice. Make or buy
a comforta bl e seat c ushion. Finally, brew a c up of
coffee, grab a good book, and get busy relaxing.
Wil1dolV Seal 87
I Bed Surround
H
eadboards aren't the only way to adorn the head
of a bead. Indeed, it ca n be dressed not on ly with
form but \,vi th terri fic function. Combi ning cabinets of
differi ng sizes and shapes provides bot h the finish to
a bed-that is often the sole domain of t he attractive
but purely decorat ive headboard-and t he util ity of
cabinets that doubl e as both decoration and much
needed storage.
The cabinets' clea n, deAned lines lend this Bed
Surround a modern feel while the option for above-
bed li ghting creates the halo of a warm and calm space
for starting and ending the day or tucking a\vay for a
qui ck nap.
Before getting started, determine if YOLl \vant
the option of cabinet mounted lights. If so, rough-
in the wires and S\,vitc h(es) prior to installing the
cabinets. Once the cabinets arc on site, prep them
before hanging by drilling the appropri ate holes to
accommodate the \vires and house the light fixtures.
3 0 ' l ' ~
A
D
A
,
,
,
c
: 81"
,
A
c
Cutting List
Part No. Desc. Size
A 4 Wall cabinet 12 x 30"
B 2 Wall cabinet 15 x 30"
C 2 Bose cabinet 18 x 34Y1"
D 2 Countertop 1'1" 19 x 25"
Hed S'urrolllld 89
How to Build a Bed Surround
LAY OUT THE PROJECT
C hoose the exac t locat ion for your bed surrou nd.
Mark the left and right edges of the project area,
and t hen And t he center li ne. Be very exact. Usi ng a
4 ft. leve l, plumb up from t he ce nter poi nt. Ma rk a
plumb li ne (photo I ). T h is is the control poi nt from
whi ch YOLI map out the rest of t he IaYOLIt . Measure
30
1
/8" left a nd right of the center point to ma rk t he
outsi de edges of the horizonta l uppers (photo 2).
Drive a 6-pc nny nail righ t on t he ce nte rli ne to hold
your tape.
INSTALL THE UPPER CABINETS
I nstall a temporary ledger <:It the locCltion of t he bottom
edges of t he horizontal cabi nets (81" above the Aoor
in OLif project). Carefull y install the horizontal uppers
by rest ing t he m in position on the temporary ledgers
and t he n driving screws through the cabinet backs
and into wall st uds (photo 3). If you discover gaps
between upper cabine ts, create fi ll e r st ri ps to insert
bet\veen t he cabinets (photo 4) and conceal the gaps
(see page 32).
From t he outs ide edges of t he insta ll ed
horizon tal upper assembly, plumb down to t he Aoor
with a 4-ft. level. With t he uppers insta ll ed, you
now have rock sol id control points to plumb down to
t he Aoor from. T hese li nes e nable you to place the
lower ca binets acc urately a nd keep all face fra mes
ti ght. Measure the base ca bi nets' \vidt h to the left
and ri ght of the plumb lines and ma rk t he baseboa rd
for removal (photo 5). Us ing a combination square
and pu ll saw, mar k a nd re move the base molding. Be
ca reful not to da mage t he wal lboa rd whe n removing
the base mo lding.
INSTALL THE VERTICAL ELEMENTS
T he base cab inets will need some type of
countertop s urface so they can fu nct ion as
n ightstands and a lso support the vert ical upper
cab ine ts. \;\Ie made part ic leboard cou ntertops \vith
plastic la mi nate app li ed to the tops and edges.
Because the s izes are re la ti vely small , thi s projec t
<:I lso presents <:I good opportunity to experi me nt with
some h i g h ~ e n d countert op materia ls, such as granite
or quartz. Install t he counte rtops before insta lli ng
t he base cabi ne ts in the project a rea (photo 6).
Insta ll t he le ft base cabinet ti ght to the plumb li ne
(photo 7).
Draw a plumb reference line in the exact center of the
project area.
2
..
Mark vertical reference lines %" further out from the
centerline than the horizontal cabinet height.
3
Move the upper cabinets into position and fasten them to wall at stand locations using screws.
4
Cut and attach filler strips to the edge of one of the
cabinets if there is a gap between it and its neighbor.
From the plumb line, measure out the exact width of the
base cabinet carcass and mark the base molding for removal.
Bed Surrolllld 91
Install the laminate countertop on the base cabinet prior to installation. Make sure it is flush to the inside edge and back of the
base cabinets and overhangs the front and outside edges.
Install the left base cabinet tight to the plumb line. Drive screws into a stud at both the top and bottom of the cabinet carcase.
On top of the left base cabi net, mOll nt the first
vert ical uppe r tight to t he plumb li ne. Be careful of
the lami nate countertop during installation. Mount
the second vert ical uppe r tight to the first. Make sure
the face frames are Aush. Shim the back as necessary
and make sure to catch wa ll studs wi th the fasteners
(photo 8). Repeat these steps for the base cabinet on
the right side.
JOIN THE CABINETS
The horizontal uppers and verti cal uppers shou ld be
at the same height. If so, Aush up and fasten the face
frames (photo 9).
If the ca binet gangs are not Aush, adjust the
horizo ntcd uppers to mate \vith t he left a nd right
vertical gangs . Once Aush in all directions, fasten t he
face frames a nd secu re to the wall (photo 10).
Install (or have installed) the light fixtu res and
swi tches. Remove the temporary ledger, patch drY'.va ll ,
cau lk, and trim cabinet bases as required . Sand and
spot-tollch the hnishes .
9
Fasten the face frames of the vertical uppers to the
horizontal uppers. Pre-drill and countersink before driving
screws.
Sometimes shims are required to keep face frames tight
and flush, due to irregularities in the wall surface. Insert shims
behind the cabinets as needed and remove excess shim
material after installation.
10
Once the face frames are fastened together, attach the
wall cabinets securely to the wall with screws driven through
the cabinet backs at stud locations.
Bed Surrolllld 93
I Loft Bed
I
f you had- or wanted- a loft bed back in college or
in your first apartment, then this is a project you' re
going to like. But your kjds will probably li ke it more
because it's cool, fun , and t heir fr iends probably \,\ro n't
have one.
Thi s loft bed is designed to open lip fl oor space
usually consumed by a bed. I t also provides a location
underneath it for a kid or kids to play, do activi ti es or
set up a desk. And, it because it ties in with the wa ll ,
it ca n wor k for kids of all ages.
Because YOLI ca n tie into the \va ll , t hi s loft bed
probabl y has a litt le more oomph than the one YOLI
might have buil t wit h yo ur old roumnlelte. And, <!
b l l i l t ~ i n safety rail adds an ext ra layer of protect ion
for younger kids. VVhi le YOLI ca n make the bed to your
own specificat ions following t he techniques below,
the bed des ign here is based on a twin-sized mattress,
v" hi ch is 39" x 75 ",
The outside dimensions of the bed frame are
48
3
/ .. " X 80", which all O\,vs room up top for books, a
drink, and a little ext ra room for the bedding to drapc
when the bed is made. Your littl e princess or prince
wi ll love cl imbing the ladder to get in bed.
Safety Note: Never attach hooks or handles to the
loft bed and do not hang ite1lls lr01I1- it, including rope
and belts. Children can catch thenlselves on these ite111.s
when. playing or in the event that {In accidental fall
occurs.
Tools
Mi te r S3\Y
Table saw
Ci rcular saw
Drill/driver
Level
St ud finder
Hammer
Tape measure
Nail set
Pneumatic nailer/compressor
Hauter and bits
Sander
Carpenter's square
Shooting board Of straightedge
Materials
(2) W' x 4 x 8 ft. maple p l ) ~ v o o d
(6) I x 2 x 8 ft. maple
(4) lx6x8ft. maple
(3) 2 x 2 x 8 ft. pine
Brass screws
"',lith grommet washers
Deck screws
Trim head \,\'ood screVl's
Finishing materials
Cutting List
Part No. Desc.
A Box front
B Box end- left
e Box bock
D Box end-right
E Box bottom
F 2 Box/roil cop-front
G 2 Box cop-end
H Box cop- bock
Roil cop-end
Size
Y. x B x BO"
Y. x B x 4B"
%x5%x78W
%x5%x48
Y. x 4B x BO"
0/4 x ]111 x 80"
. x 1'1, x 48"
% x 11/2 X 78
1
/2
%x 11h x 30
1
,4
Maple plywood J 10 Roil post %X1 V2X 4 I x 2 maple
Maple pl ywood K ladder leg-short % x WI X 59W' I x 6 maple
Maple plywood L ladder leg-long % x 5V1 x 79W' I x 6 maple
Maple plywood M 6 ladder rung Y. x I V, x 24 I x 2 maple
Maple plywood N ladder filler %x 5Vlx 6W' I x 6 maple
I x 2 maple 0 8 ladder filler Jh x 51/1 x lOY?" I x 6 maple
I x 2 maple
p
ladder filler JI. x 5
1
/1 X 31/1 I x 6 maple
I x 2 maple
Q
CleoHong ] lh x 11/1 X 79
1
/4 2 x 2 maple (or pine)
I x 2 maple R (leoHhort 1'/, x l'h x45 2 x 2 maple (or pine)
Lof' Red 95
How to Build a Loft Bed
1
once you've determined the height you want the mattress
to be, strike a level line indicating the bottom of the mattress
support box.
LAY OUT THE WALL CLEATS
Determine the length, width, and location of the bed
frame . Plan you r layout so that once the mattress is
in, you have 4" to 6" all the way around it inside the
mattress box, providing room for bedding and other
things. Ma rk a level line on both walls at the bottom
of the mattress box (photo I).
BUILD THE MATTRESS BOX
The mattress box is fabricated from 3// t hick maple
plywood, whi ch creates a clean, modern look once
insta ll ed and finished . Maple is also a very stab le
material t hat delivers dependabl e mec han ical
connections for assembly. And, because vve can
make panels larger theln wi th dimensional lumber,
we create a nest for the mattress to set inside that
resul t s in a c urb that will he lp keep ch ildren safe at
night. The box shou ld be assembled as compl ete ly
as possible on the grou nd (in your s hop) a nd then
cut stock using a circular saw and straightedge guide,
and stack it neatly. Label each piece (magic marker on blue
painters tape works) to make identifying it later easier.
hoi sted into position on the wa ll c leats when you've
taken it as far as it makes sense to go. The two si des
of the box t hat face out into the room are \"rider
than the two that go aga inst t he wa ll s because t he
room-s ide of the box needs to conceal the cleat s
that support the plywood box bottom. These clea ts
(the room side ones) a rc attac hed to the frame first
and the ot her two are attached to the walls first.
The plywood bottom is butted agai nst the room sides
of the box frame, and is Rush \vith the outs ide edges
of the wa ll si des of the frame. The top edges of the
box are covered wit h I X 2 maple on-edge, \,vhich
also se rves as the bottom rail of the railing on the
room sides.
I1ip-eut the four box frame sides from 'ii' maple
plyv/Ood, using a tablesaw or a circ ul ar saw and
st raightedge cutting guide (photo 2). Note that the
t\,VO frame sides t hat go against the wall are 21//1
narrower than the ones fac ing the room.
The fastener sc heme we chose for this bed is to tack
the parts together with glue and pneumat ic nail s, then 3
reinforce with brass screws and was hers
once things arc squared up (the brass screws only need
to be used on vi si bl e surfaces) . Join the corners of the
box wi th glue and screws (photo 3). The two exposed
s ides should conceal the end gra in of the side they're
attached to. \t\1ork on a large, flat surface \,vith the box
sides so thei r top edges are even.
Cut the c leats to length from 2 X 2 pine stock.
Attac h c leats to the bottom insi de faces of the exposed
box sides, Aush with the bottom edges of the box
(photo 4). Use glue and brass \vooc! screw's dri ven at
8" interval s to secure the cleClts.
Once the cleats are in place, cut the mattress
box bottom to size and attach it to the cleats that
are connected to the room sides of the box. Dri ve 211
dcck screws through the plywood bottom and into the
c leats, spaced no more than 12" apa rt (photo 5). At
the wall -s ides of the box, the bottom should
be Aush with the outs ide edges of the box. Also dri ve
2" deck or wallboard screws into the ply'\vood box
edges on thi s side.
C ut 3 2 X 2 st iffe ners "nd posit ion them on the
undersides of the plywood. The ends should be flus h
agai nst the room side cl eat. Tac k in place and then
attach by dri ving screws through the top of the plywood.
Attach the cleats that support the mattress box bottom to
the two sides of the box that face the room.
Join the corners of the mattress box with glue and a few nails
or with glue and clamps, and then rei nforce each joint with
three #8 x 2'h" brass wood screws. Space the screws evenly.
we added decorative grommet-style brass washers instead of
counterboring and plugging the screw holes.
5
Attach the plywood mattress box bottom by driving
screws through the plywood and into the two cleats mounted
inside the box. Also drive screws through the box bottom and
into the back and right end edges of the box.
Lo!t Red 97
Run the top edges of the j x 2 map le stock for
the railing and edge caps parts through a router table
fitted wit h a 1// roundover bit. Cut the box caps, cap
rail s and rail posts to length (use a stop block on your
power miter saw to make uniform length pieces).
Attac h the I x 2 caps to the back edge and ri ght end
(the wa ll sides) with glue and Anish nail s (drill pilot
hole for the Anish na il s if hand-dr iving them). Before
attaching the fro nt and left side box caps, layout
positions for the railing posts accord ing to the diCigram
on page 95 (photo 6). For best accuracy, g a n g ~ m a r k
the post locations on the rail caps a nd box caps.
Attach each post to the box caps at marked
locat ions, usi ng glue and two 3" deck screws or
wood screws driven up through pilot holes in the box
Layout the locations for the rail ing posts on the mating rail
and box caps so you' ll be sure they're aligned perfectly.
cap and into the bottom ends of the posts. Then,
attach the box caps with attac hed posts to the front
and left sides of the mattress box, llsing glue and 3"
trim-head wood scre\'vs dri ven dovm through the top
edges of the box ca ps and into the box at t 211 intervals
(photo 7).
Next , attach the fCli ling caps to the tops of the
railing posts wit h glue and trimheCld wood screws
driven down through the rail caps and into the posts.
Make sure the posts are ali gned \vith the reference
lines you marked for their positions. Finish-sand the
mattress box (you may wa nt to back out the screws a
ways to get underneath the grommets), It's best to wait
unti l a ll parts are built so you ca n apply Anish at the
same time
After screwing the railing posts to the box caps, attach the
assemblies to the front and left sides of the mattress box using
counterbored trim-head wood screws.
Shape the bullnose profiles into the top edges of your 1 x 2
rung stock before cutti ng the rungs to length.
Adding a Ceiling
.. g ..... .. .
. ..... . .
....... .
....... .
... . .. ... .. .
The ladder is a 3-ply assembly. The short leg is the first
layer. Next come the ladder blocks that run parallel to the leg.
After you install a ladder block. you install a rung perpendicular
to it, working your way down the ladder- block, rung. block,
rung, etc. Make sure the blocks are flush to the edges of the
leg and that the rungs are held tight to the blocks. use glue
and screws (or pneumatic nails).
The bottom edges of the front side and left end of the mattress box are still exposed plywood edge grain. There are a
couple of ways of dealing with this. One is to conceal the edges with heat-activated maple veneer tape. Or, you can tack
on additional strips of maple 1 x 2. But we chose to create a "ceiling" for the area underneath the loft bed by attachi ng a
sheet of tempered W' hardboard to the underside of the box.
MAKE THE LADDER
The ladder/post is made from bui lt-up I X 6 maple
boards. The rungs arc I x 2 maple boards with bull -
nosed edges. To simpli fy the mac hining, cut the
bull noses by proA ling a ll fou r edges of you r 8-ft. I x 2
stock on a router tabl e ntted with a %" roundover bit
(photo 8) . The rungs should have CI more pronounced
bullnose than the top of t he I x 2 box ca ps. The n cut
the ru ngs to le ngth \.vith a miter smv or power miter
smv (3 stop bloc k is a good idea for ensuring uniform
lengths).
Cut t he ladde r legs and ladder blocks to le ngth
from I x 6 maple stock. Arra nge t he shorte r legs on a
Rat surface wi th the outside edges 24" apart and the
e nd Aush. Make sure legs stay para llel at a ll times .
Install the 6'1,' blocks first Aus h wi th the top ends
of the legs. Use glue a nd a couple of Anis h na il s or
pne umati c na il s to secure the blocks. Then begin
v\lork,j ng downwa rd, adding fu ngs and blocks according
to the di"gram 0 11 page 95 (photo 9).
Loft Red 99
'1'0"
. . ..
... ..
. . .
.. .. ' .. .
.. ,' . .. . .
..... , .. .
....... "
.... ... ..
..... .. .
. , ...... .
. . . . . . . .
.........
.. .... .. '
", ..... .
. . . . . ... .
. .. . .....
.........
... ... , ..
. . . .. . . ..
" ..... . .
.... . ... .
........ .
.... .. .. .
... .. ..
..... .
Attach the long outer legs to the blocks. rungs and short
legs, ensuring that the bottoms and sides are flush. Glue
and screw securely with flat head brass wood screws and
decorative grommet-type washers.
11
' -' '.
,.
?
pre-assemble the wall cleats into an L-shape and fasten
them to the wall studs with lag screws and adhesive.
Faste n the longer legs over t he assembly,
sa nd\viching the blocks and rllng ends between I x 6
legs (photo 10). The extra 15" of le ngth should be at
the top of the longer legs .
INSTALL THE LOFT BED
Be fore insta lling t he loft bed, apply your fi nish of
choice (a few coats of durabl e polyurethane varn ish
is a good opti on). the long side cleat
and short side cleat into an using glue and
3" dec k screws . Attac h the cleat to the \.va ll at the
mattress box layout lines . Apply pa nel adhes ive to the
back faces of t he c leat s before installing. Attac h wi th
3/8 x 3
1
h" countersun k lag sc re\vs \,vit h was he r at eac h
st ud locatio n (photo j I).
C la mp a long 2 x 4 to the fro nt face of the
mattress box so the 2 x 4 will s up port t he front
at rough ly t he correct he ight \,vhe n it is install ed.
With a couple of he lpers (or more), ra ise the box
a nd rest the bac k and right end on the wa ll s c leats,
ma king sure t he box is sq uare to the corners and
Rus h agai ns t t he wa ll s . Pl ace a level on the box a nd
adj ust the c la mp and 2 x 4 brace so the box is level
(photo j 2).
12
Check with a 4 ft. level across the corner of the box near
the ladder location to make sure the box is level on both sides.
13

Position the ladder at the corner of the front and left side
edges. The rung layer and short leg layer should fit snugly
underneath the box, since the ladder will serve as a corner
support post. Attach the ladder to the rnattress box.
Once the mattress box is level, face-nail through
the front and left ends of the box and into the wa ll
c leats to hold the bed in place. After the ladde r is
secured "mel attached to the bed it \,vill be safe enough
to go topside and drive some nai ls through the box
bottom and into the \,vall cleats.
INSTALL THE LADDER
Position the ladder under the mattress support box.
lvIake sure that the right side of the ladder is Rush
wit h the long, outsi de edge of the mattress support
box. Plumb it and fasten us ing glue and screws. The
short legs of the ladder create a ledge to he lp support
the free e nd of the box.
Drive 3
1
// brass scrclwvs with grommet washe rs
through t he ladder leg a nd upper ladder block at 8"
intelVals to secure the ladder (which functions as
Secure the bottom of the ladder/corner post by attaching a
cleat to the floor behind the ladder legs.
a post) to the mattress box (photo 13). Locate the
screws so they hit the 2 x 2 cleat at the bottom, inside
edge of the box. AJso dri ve a few countersunk 2"
screv/s dovm through the plywood box bottom Cl nd into
the top e nds of the s hort legs.
the ladder to make SLIre it is
plumb and then screw the sixth ladder rLIng to the
floor, directl y behi nd t he bottom of t he ladde r,
laying Rat (photo 14). The ends of t he rungs shou ld
be flush with the outside faces of the ladde r legs.
Dri ve screws or na il s through the rungs and into
the bottoms of the legs to prevent the ladder from
moving. Also ClttClc h the top ends of the long ladder
legs to the top railing caps with tri m- head screws .
Dri ve a few extra nail s through the box bottom and
into the cleats, remove the temporary 2 x 4 brace,
and add your mattress.
Loft Red 101
I Country Diner
D
iners are traditiona l morning and late-night
gathe ring spots, well -loved for being bri ght ,
fri endly, and upbeat. They have been gracious ly
Izjcking off our days for generati ons \\l it h hot food,
great coffee and \.varm company.
At home, breakfast nooks emulating diner boot h
designs and ambience arc traditi ona l gathering spots
for morning coffee, preparing for the day a head, or
quiet evening conversati ons with the fami ly. But
at-home breakfast nooks have traditionall y bee n
interpreted as dark-stai ned, hard-edged pl yv/Ood and
somewhat monol it hi c designs. They lack the spunk,
pop, and zip of the local diner and call overpO\"le r a
small s pace.
The Country Diner combines the fee l of the small -
town diner with a modern Rare that keeps up wi th
your fami ly. Whil e \.ve've ll sed ply\vood for the benc h
supports, we wrapped it in war me r whi te pi ne that can
be left clear, painted, or pic kl ed. The seatboards and
tabletop are made from edge-glued pine, but you can
choose other material s if you prefer.
The tongue-and-groove pine pane ling \'vrapping
the benches adds contour and shadow lines while
the bench's bac k grows right out of the seat. The
ascending modern line delivers a sleek shape whi le
the wide bench ca p provides a ni ce capital a long wi th
a flat surface. The modern surface looks like it mi ght
once have supported \,vhite cerami c coffee c ups a nd
short -stacks back when dine rs looked li ke train ca rs,
yet it's modern and tough enough to stand up to busy
famili es t hat \,vill use the country diner for a lot more
than breakfast.
Tools
Materials
Tablesav"
Counters in k Finish material s
2) 3/; x 4 ft. x 8 ft. plywood
Circular saw and Combinat ion square (6) tabletop clips
10) I x 4" x 8 ft. pi ne
shooting board Framing square (2) Metal L-brackets
2) 1 X 8" X 8 ft. pinc
Jig saw
i\II iter saw Screws
7) 1 X 10" X 8 ft. pinc
Tape measure Table saw
Nail s
1) I X 12" X 8 ft . pine
Cordless drill/driver
Clue
7) 3/8 x 3'12" X 8 ft. pine
2) 2 x 8" x 10ft. pine
bead-board
4) 2 x 4" x 8 ft. pine
Cutting List
Key Part No. Size Material Key Part No. Size Material
A Bench upright 4 1'1, x 5Y, x 50 Rip from 2 x 8 Tobie strut/front 1 l'I, x3x28 Rip from 2 x 4
B Bench support 6 V.x lB x l8 Plywood J Tobie strut/ledger 3 1'/,x3x24 Rip from 2 x 4
C Bench strut 10 . x 3
1
h x 60 lx4 K Apron 2 J;4x 3x52V4 Rip from 1 x 4
D Seot buck [UP 2 %x 7x 61 Vl lxB L Tobie legfront % x 1111. x 29 V4 Cut from 1 x 12
E Seot boords 4 V.x 9x 61 Y, 1 x 10 (edge gluel M Tobie leg buck % x ll l/. x 26 V4 Cut from 1 x 12
F Buck ponel 2 .x I8x57 Plywood N Tobletop boords 3 'i. xl0x60 Cut from 1 x 12
G 8uck cleot 8 0/4 X 3/4 X 18 Pine 0 T&G clodding %x6xcuttofil Beodboord
H Buck cleut 4 1'4 X' X21/4 Pine
COlllllry Di ller 103
How to Build a Country Diner
MAKE THE BENCH FRAMES
The framework for the diner benches is made by
fabricating six ident ical bench supports from plywood
(three per bench). The supports are notched to accept
five 1 x 4 st rut s thelt tie the supports together <Jnd
provide flailing surfaces for the tongue-and-groove
cladding. It's important that the bench supports be
identical so the notches al ign correct ly (othen,vise the
benches won't be square). The best way to make this
happen is by fabri cating a pattern that wi ll serve as
the template for cutting the other pieces. For greatest
accuracy, use a route r and a template bit to cut the
bench support s. But if you are reasonably handy wi th
a ci rcular saw and jig sa"v, YOLI can li se the first bench
support as a pattern for marking and cutting the
ot he rs.
Cut ten 3
1
h" by 5-ft.-long struts from I X 4 pine.
Then, to make the legs, cut %" plywood into six
identical J 8 x J 8" blanks. Taper one of the bl anks J"
at each side, so the top edge is J6" long (photo I ).
Lay Ollt t he 3/4 X 3
1
h" notches for t he strut s
according to the diagram on page I 03. Cut the
notches with a jig saw (photo 2). Clean up cut edges
on the first bench support with a sander, then use the
first support as a pattern for laying out the taper lines
and notches on the rest of the \vorkpieces.
Use a circular saw and straightedge
guide to make taper cuts on the first
bench support.
Carefully cut strut notches using a jig
saw. See drawing for locations. Using a
cut-off from a strut as a tracing pattern will
help you get accurate cuts.
Starting with the top strut, attach the strut s to the
bench support s, spac ing the middl e be nch support
exact ly midway in each bench frame (photo 3) . Use
glue and wood screws dri ven in countersunk pilot
holes to attac h the struts to the benc h supports.
Finall y, cut the uprights. As shown, they are
sized to be rip-c ut to Rn ishecl size ( J '12 x 5'12") from
2 x 8 stock. Ma ke sure to take stock from each side
so you remove the sli ght bullnose edges that are cut
at the lumber mil l. Set your pO\ver mi ter smv to m<Jke
12 degree cuts. Trim the ends in parall el cuts to Cllt
the upri ghts to le ngt h (photo 4). Attach the upri ghts
to the ins ide faces of the outer be nch supports,
accordi ng to the placement information on page 103.
Assemble the frames for the benches
by attaching the struts to the bench
supports with glue and screws. Take care
to keep everything square.
use a miter saw to cleanly cut the
angled seat upright prior to installation.
COlllllry Diller 105
ADD THE BENCH BACKS
The backs of the benches arc made by installing a
plywood back board between the uprights and t hen
cladding the backboard on bot h faces with tongue-and-
groove pa nel ing. Start by cutting t he cleat that you'll
use to anchor t he back board from I X stock. Cut eight
cleats (4 for each bench) to 18" and cut four to 2'/.".
Install a short cleat and a long cleat in an L-s hape on
the insi de face of each upright (photo 5). The top of the
long cleat should be Rush with the top of the upright.
Us ing a tabl e saw or a ci rcular saw and shooting
board, cut the back pa nels to size. Apply a bead of
v,lood glue or adhesive and lay the panels into the
L-s haped brackets created by the two cleats (photo 6).
Drive counte rsunk 1
1
/", " scre\'vs through the back panel
and into the long cleat. I nstall the remaining trim
pieces around the plywood seat backer.
CLAD THE BENCHES
The bases and backs of t he benches are clad wit h
pi ne tongue-and-groove paneling (sometimes called
carsiding) . Because the paneli ng on the ends of the
benches that face the room conceals the ir edges,
insta ll t he panel ing that's attached to t he benc h
Fabricate an L-shape to accept the
plywood bench back, then attach it to a
bench upright.
A plywood backer gives the bench
back its rigidity. Install the backer using
adhesive and fasteners.
<:I long its length fi rst. Cut t he first paneli ng board
to length so the bottom end is sli ghtl y above the
floor and t he top ends are fl us h with t he tops of t he
bench supports (the top ends wi ll be concealed by
the seatboard overhang). Then. trim off the groove
to create a sol id wood edge at t he end of t he bench.
I f you ovm <:I pneumatic nail er, use it to drive nail s
through the tongue of the first paneling board.
Otherwise, hand nai l wit h 4d or 6d fin ish nails and
set the heads with a nail se t. D rive at least one nail
into each strut that the paneling board is posi ti oned
over (photo 7).
Apply panel ing to t he front and back of the bench
base. To cl ad the bench ends (yo u only need to cl ad
t he end that will face t he room), hol d a panel ing boa rd
up against t he end and trace the angled edge onto the
back side of t he paneli ng (photo 8). Cut along t hi s
line. Instal l this piece flus h to t he bench end. Fasten
and complete paneling installation for the bench
base. Also install tongue-and-groove panel ing boards
on the front and bac k si des of each back panel. The
boards should be flus h wit h the top and bottom of the
plywood bac k pa ne l.
Begin installing the tongueand
groove cladding on the base of the
bench. You' ll find many options, but %".
thick paneli ng (sold in 14 sq. ft . packages)
is an economical choice.
Trace the angle of the tapered bench
onto the back side of a piece of paneli ng
and tri m it to fit.
COlllll ry Di ller 107
9
)
Cut the seat back cap to length from I X 8 stock
and attach it to t he tops of the upri ghts a nd to t he
top of the benc h back using glue and nails. The cap
should overhang t he front upri ght by about I lhll and
be Aush vvit h the end of the bench that goes against
the wa ll.
MAKE THE SEATBOARDS & TABLETOP
Both the seatboards and t he tabletop are construc ted
by edge-gluing pine boards toge ther. If you have
access to a woodwor king shop, you' ll wa nt to joint t he
edges of t he boards before you gl ue them toget her.
Othenvise, make a nice, cl ei:1Il rip-c ut along each
edge \\l ith a sharp circ ulur saw blade. For strengt h,
Edge-glue two 9" wide boards to
make each seat board, and glue up three
10" boards for the tabletop. Use a biscuit
joiner to help ensure that the boards are
aligned and level.
Mark the cutout locations for the
uprights onto the seatboard and cut them
with a jig saw
it is not necessary to use splines, biscu its or dowels
to reinforce the edge glued joi nt s, but any of t hese
devices wi ll assist wit h al ignme nt. v\le used a biscuit
joiner to al ign the glue-ups for bot h be nches and
t he tabletop. Use at least t hree or four pipe clamps
with jav,l paddi ng to cl amp eac h glue- up together
(photo 9).
Afte r the glue has dried overnight, remove the
clamps a nd sand t he glue-ups to remove any dried
glue squeeze-out.
The seat board must be notched to fit mound t he
uprights. Position t he boards on the seat base, Aush
at t he \vall end and overhanging about 11/2 11 on t he
room- side end. Mark the location of the uprights onto
1 t :::::::
.... j
.....
4']:
t
12
the seat boards, then remove them and make cutouts
with a j ig saw (photo 10).
Tip the bench so the end that goes against the
wall is Aat on the Aoor. Attach a pa ir of tabletop
clips to the inside of the bench base nem eac h end,
and a couple more on each side . (Tab letop c lips arc
sold at woodwor king stores and in woodworking
catalogs. They offer a means for fastening tabletops
and benchtops, whil e st ill allowing for some ,",vood
movement. ) Attach the seat board from underneath
using the table top clips (photo 11 ).
Set t he benches back down in t heir correct
ori e ntation . C ut filler strips of pine and
glue them into the gaps between the upri ghts and
Attach the seatboards to the bench
base with tabletop clips that secure glued-
up panels but also allow for some wood
There are many tricks you can use
to conceal the gap at the bottom of the
cladding, as well as the ragged ends
of the tongue-and-groove boards. A
skilled woodworker would bevel-rip trim
moldings and install them with compound
miter joints.
the backs of the benches. Make sure the wood grain
on the fill e r strips has the same orientat ion as the
seatboards.
As a last finishing detail for t he benches (ot he r
than sa nding, p<:I inting Of sta ining), attach some type
of wood trim to conceal the gap betwee n the tonguc-
and-groove boards and the fl oor. If you use very
small molding, such as screen retainer or vcry na rrow
base s hoe, you ca n probabl y get 3\vay with attaching
the molding as is, using butt joints at the corners.
But fo r larger moldings (and fo r a more profess ional
appearance) you' ll need to bevel-rip the molding to
all ow for the ta per of the be nch base, as well as make
compound miter joints at the corners (photo 12).
COlllll ry Diller 109
13
MAKE & INSTALL THE TABLE
T he Country Di ner ta bl e is designed to be affixed
to a wall , supported by a ledger boa rd on the wa ll
si de whil e a leg funs to t he Aoor on t he ent ry side.
T he length and width of the tabl e are adj ustable
to sllit your pa rti cu lar but the fabrication
techniques are the same. The dimensions specifi ed
in the drawing arc 30" \.vide and 5 Fe long. The top
of the table surface is 30" above the Aoor. Struts cut
from 2 x 4 pine are added beneath t he tab le for bot h
looks a nd stability. \A/e chose to gl ue up a rustic p ine
tabletop (whi c h should get ma ny coats of polyu ret ha ne
va rni sh). You may prefer to have a ta bl e top fabr icated
from quartz or na tural stone.
Layout and c ut the leg from I X 12 pine. The
front ha lf of the face-glued leg shoul d run full height
cut two identical leg halves, then trim 3"
off the back one and face glue it with the
front half to make a laminated table leg.
Attach the ledger for the tabletop to
the wall with heavy-duty fasteners, such
as counterbored lag screws driven at stud
locations.
(29'/,"), tapering from 4" at the top to the full wid th of
the I X 12 ( 11 '//) at the bottom. Make the bac k ha lf-of
the lami nated leg identical to the front , but then trim
off the top 3" to create a ledge for the front ta bletop
st rut (photo 13). Attach the ledgers (photo 14).
liip-e ut 2 x 4 pi ne stock to 3" wide to make all
four tabletop struts. Also rip-cut some I x 4 stock for
the tv<'O Clprons. Cut the front st rut to 281! lo ng Cl nd
the n clip the bottom corners to give the tabl e both
some "lift" and to create leg room as you enter the
booth. Cut the ledger and the in ner st ruts to 24" long.
Also cut the aprons to 52
1
/4" long from the 1 x 4 stock.
Locate exactl y whe re you r table will be fastened to
your wa ll by arranging the location of your benches
and then centering the table between them. Us ing a
ca rdboard cutout to tai lor exactl y where you want the
15
table and benches also \,viil help YOll clistomi ze your
diner. Once YOll find the center of the table location,
find the center of the ledger board a nd mark it. When
installing the ledger board, line up these two marks
for a perfect fit. At the ledger board location, strike a
level line 29' /," above the Aoor. Find and mark the wa ll
st ud locat ions- try to \oc<1te t he ledger so it spa ns t\VO
studs. Install the ledger on layout using glue and the
proper fasteners (photo 14). Idea lly, usc a %" X 3'h"
countcrborcd lag screw dri ve r through the ledger and
into wall studs, plus additional sc rews and/or toggles
to stabili ze the ledger.
On <:I nat surface, assemble t he table frame
by capt uri ng the short st ruts bet\,veen the aprons
(photo 15). The front strut should be attached to the
aprons wit h L-brac kets on t he inside joint.
Assemble the table frame all at once
on a flat surface.
Clamp the table leg to the front strut
temporarily and check the tabletop for
level. Attach the leg to the strut with glue
and screws.
Attach the tabletop to the st ruts with one tabl etop
cl ip near each end of each strut. Cla mp the leg to the
front strut and rest the other end of the tabletop on
the wall ledger, whi ch shou ld fit between the free ends
of the aprons (photo J 6). Adjust the height of the leg
if necessary, and t hen attach it to the front strut wit h
glue and screws. Dri ve screws through the aprons into
the ends of the ledger.
APPLY FINISH, POUR COFFEE
T he Country Diner is shO\vn here with a light wood
stain a nd high gloss polyurethane finish for ease
of cl ea ning. Le t all adhesives, Ilnish a nd pClint dI)'
thoroughly before si tting dO\>vn at the Country Dine r
for a slO\.v breakfast and time well spent
wit h fami ly and fri ends.
COlllllry Di,ler . 111
I Wall Niche
A
wa ll niche is kind of cubby hole carved into a
stud wa ll , us uall y to house display she lving. T hese
days, they are often seen as prefashioned inserts \,vith
an arc h shape and Greco- Roman styling in higher-
end hOLising, ofte n with classical statuary within the
nic he sides . The niche shovm here is a rather differe nt
animal. It is simply a wooden box that you s li p into a
holc in the wall and then tri m out. As a qui c k and easy
storage project, it is a perfect accompan iment to our
Fast Country Diner proj ect (see pages J 02 to J J J).
A ni che creates <1 perfect spot to stas h napkin
holde rs, salt a nd pepper shakers and other tablewa re
so yo ur table surface is clea r for ea ting, re laxing or
doing a bi t of homework.
The steps, ski ll s and tool s described here ca n
be used to create wa ll ni c hes of various sizes and in
numerous locat ions. It is important to note, however,
that these ni ches are intended for non-load beari ng
wa ll s. If t he ni c he you wish to c reate would involve
cutting framing members in a load beari ng \,vall,
consider redesigning t he project so you do not have
to cut wa ll studs. i\llaking st ructural alt erat ions to a
load-bearing wall should be done only by qualified
profess ionals.
It's also important to be aware of any electri cal
wires or gas or wate r plumbing near your project area.
Check to see if there a re li ght switches or p lugs above
or below the niche open ing before cutt ing ;md try to
deduce \vhere plumbing mi ght be routed and located .
Safety Notice: TI,.is project should be installed only
in non.loadbearing walls. Do not cut 1I7all studs in load
hearing 1I7alls unless you are 1I70rki-ng 1I7ith a cert ified
building engineer or professional carpenter.
Tools
DrY'Nall/ plastcr cutting saw
Reciprocati ng sa\'v
Cordl ess drill/driver
Circular $m,,
i\lliter S3\V
Cutting List
Part No. Dese.
Countersink
DrY',va ll finishing tool s
2-foot leve l
Aviator snips
Materials
Ix6
Trim- head screws
1/4 " birch plywood scra p
1 %, " dry,.vall sc re\'vs
Case molding
Paint
Size Material
A 2 Top/bottom % x 3% X 25Y2" Hordwood/MDF
B 2 Side 3/4 x 3% x 8" Hordwood/MDF
C Bock % x 91/2 x 25 Y1" Plywood
D 4 Trim (opt.) lh x 2
7
/a" x miter to fit (ose molding
Hl1l1 Nie/Ie 113
How to Build a Wall Niche
LAY OUT THE NICHE
Determine that the wal l you're cutting into is not a
load-bearing wall. Determine the opening's finished
location and height and \vidth. An 8" tall by 24" wi de
nic he is just the right scale fo r the kitchen booth
project we designed this ni che to accompany (see
page 102). Use a 2ft . level and mark al l f our sides of
the opening plumb and leve l at t he finished location.
These lines arc the control points for all ot her
measurements.
Measure 3/:.'1 out from each control point line
(photo j ). Do t his at two points on each line and
connect the dots using a 2-ft. level.
Start your layout by mapping out the niche's finished
dimensions, then measure out from there for the rough
opening where you will make your cuts. This is the cut li ne.
MAKE THE CUTOUT
Turn off electrical power at the main circuit breaker.
Use a dr)1\vall saw or reciprocat ing saw to cut along the
cut line. Make the cut as shallow as you can in case
there are hidden wires or pipes in t he wall (photo 2).
Remove the drywall, expos ing t he wa ll studs.
More than like ly, you're going to have a wall stud or
t\VO somewhere in the middle of the opening. Use a
reciprocating saw to remove the studs. Or, you can
usc a circular saw to start the cut (photo 3a), carefull y
aligning it with the edge of the drywall and using it to
cut the stud. Then, finish the c ut with a reciprocating
saw (photo 3b). Be careful not to cut t hrough t he
drywall on the back side of the cut.
2
With electrical power turned off, cut the opening in the
wall covering. Use caution in case there are hidden wires or
pipes in the area.
use a circular saw to start the stud cut, then use a
reciprocating saw to finish the cut. This method is easier on the
drywall- especially if the studs back up to another room- and
provides a straighter cut.
5
vVhen removing studs, you may pull a faste ner
through from an adjoining room and have to repair
that afte rwards . Na il s or screws may be penetrating
from t he other side of the wa ll into the stud . Carefull y
remove the stud sec tion. It is likely that re moving
the stud sect ion will cause the fastener to pull
through t he oppos ite s ide of the wa ll , so touch-up
may be necessary. For most non-loadbearing w<:I lI s
the competed ni c he box s hould provide adequate
support for the cut studs. But if you arc cutting morc
than one stud, or if yo u s impl y \va nt to be certajn the
nic he box does not sag from downwa rd pressure, make
the opening larger and insta ll a 2 X 4 fra me to hOllse
the niche box. Thi s \,vill requ ire considerably more
patc hing of the wa ll coveri ng, but you may apprec iate
it for you r own peace of mind.
Rip-cut the niche frame boards to width.
Cutting them so they stop just short of the
opposite wallcovering when installed.
Assemble the niche box. Drill
countersunk pil ot holes for the screws.
BUILD THE NICHE BOX
Measure the depth of your wa ll cavity and subtract
'hl! f rom the overall depth to give yourself (l little bit
of Aexibil i ty vI/hen installing the ni che and to <:tllow
for the thic kness ( '//) of t he backer material. Thi s
measurement yie lds the requi red widt h of the boards
you'll use to make the ni c he box. Rip- cut I X 6 X 8
lumber to t he required width, usi ng a tablcsav" or a
ci rcul ar smv with a st raightedge gu ide (photo 4). Cut
the frame parts to length.
Fasten top a nd bottom niche frame parts to the
si des with dIYv,'all screwS or trim-heud sc rews dri ven
into counte rsunk pil ot holes (photo 5). C ut the backer
board to size and attach it to t he back edges of the
frame \,vith drywall scre\'vs or llni sh nai ls. Install
backer material (9
1
12 X 25
1
12") with drywall sc rews .
Hhll Niclle 115
6
Cut trim moldings (such as door casing or picture
frame molding) to fit t he ni che box. For the most
satisfying results, c hoose a molding style a nd approach
that refl ect s the molding scheme already in the room.
Faste n the t rim to the ni che box wi th finis h nails and
glue or panel adhes ive (photo 6). Run a small bead
of cau lk/adhesive on the face of the nic he box. Nail
casi ng to ni che box.
INSTALL THE NICHE BOX
The ni c he box is faste ned through the interior wa lls
of the box to the ends of the stud(s) you removed . It
ca n also be fastened to blocks you insta ll in t he wa ll
use standard casing to trim out the
niche like a picture frame. Pre-installing
the trim means you can slip the niche box
assembly into the opening and the trim
guides how the box sets against the wall,
similar to how a pre-hung door is installed.
Fasten the niche box up into the stud
ends with finish nails.
cavity on each side. Locate eac h st ud and transfer its
locat ion to the inte ri or of t he box and mark it.
Test-fit the niche box to make s ure it lays Rat
against drywall. When you have establi shed that the fit
is good, rlln a bead of ca ul k/adhes ive on the backsides
of the trim pieces.
Inse rt the ni che box into the opening. Press firml y
so t he trim squeezes into t he adhesive.
Pre-drill holes at st ud locations and fasten with a
pa ir of 6d Ilnish nails dri ven through the fmllle boards
and into the ends of the cut wall studs (photo 7).
Fill and sa nd fastener holes. Sand and caulk as
necessal)'. Prime and paint or apply another finish of
your choice.
Options for Making a Wall Niche ~
One key to cutting in a wall niche is to understand that
you must cut a larger hole in your wall than the finished
dimensions of the wall niche. So first, you determine the
niche's finished location and opening dimensions and
mark them out on the wall. You then measure from those
lines so that the niche box fits inside the wall. Although
making the niche so it fits precisely within a stud bay has
some built-in efficiencies, it is not necessary. As you'll
see in this project, as long as you're building in a non-
load bearing wall you can locate your niche just about
anywhere you choose. Three options for trimming out a
wall niche are described here. The first is to frame a wood
niche insert with picture-frame trim. The second is to
use a drywall wrap created wi th blocking inside the wall
cavity and finished with joint compound to blend with the
surrounding wall. The third option simply involves installing
a prefabricated product.
Frame the niche opening and install a wood shelf at
the bottom, then trim out the opening with wallboard
using common taping and finishing techniques.
Build your niche completely out of wood, insert it into
a hole cut in the wall and trim it with picture molding (as
seen on previous pages).
purchase a prefabricated wall niche from an
architectural millwork supplier and install it in a properly
sized wall opening.
Hhll Niclle 117
I Room Divider
A
room divider, like a partition wall , separates one
large room into two usable spaces, each \vith its
ovm specific function. But unlike a partition \>I/ all , a
room divider adds storage space to your home, whil e
letting YOLI retain the open feeling of a larger room.
Room dividers commonl y are ll sed to separate a
large kitchen/dining area into two different "rooms."
Add ing a pass-through and overhanging cQuntcrtop, as
in the project shown here, creates a casual dining area.
I n the design featured here, the room divider
is built in two main sections: the base cabine t with
countertop, and the LIpper shelf unit. The two sect ions
are joined by a Aoar-ta-ceiling plyv/ood framework to
create one attractive built in.
A room divider lends itself to personal touches,
like mounting a wine rac k and ste mwa re racks on
the unde rside of the shelf unit to make a convenient
dry bar.
The overhanging countertop gives this room
divider eln <:Idded dimension as a convenient dining
surface loc<:Ited near the food preparation area of
the kitchen. The cabinets on the kit chen si de of the
room divider also provide accessible storage space for
pots, pans, and kitchenwa re. The open shelves in the
upper half of the room divider are ideal for displaying
glass\vare or coll ect ibl es.
\tVe deSigned this room divider with a builtup
plyv.rood countertop that has a polyurethane varnis h
finish. This is an economi cal and perfectly appropriate
solution. But if you' re looking to spice up the design a
bit, consider replacing the cou nte rtop v . .rith a hi ghcr.
e nd countertop material, suc h as granite or soli d
surfacing. You' ll be amazed at how much di ffere nce
a fe\\' vvell chosen design hi ghli ghts ca n make in the
over<:tll appearance of the project.
H
o
JI
1r II
II
c
Construction Detail,
Front View
,
Q
R
,
,
,
,
Room Di vider 119
Tools
Stepladder Handscrev.' clamps
Peneil Bar clamps
Level Dri ll/driver and bits
Tupe meaSure Screwdriver
Pl umb bob Hammer
Framing square Nail set
Router v-l it h 3// st raight bit Putty knife
C ircular saw or table saw
Materials
Wood gl ue
Finish nails ( I", 1 / ~ 1 t , 2" )
S' I ( I I! ] 1/ " 21\ 21/:" 3'1)
CreH S , -I, , 2)
Shims
3// hardwood strips
Countertop trim
Shelf-edge trim
Pin-style shelf supports
Fini shing materials
Door hardware
5) 2 X 4" X 8 ft. pine
5) I X 4" X 8 ft. oak
4) I x2"x8ft.oak
I ) 1/, X 4 ft. X 8 ft. oak plywood
4) 3(, X 4 ft. X 8 ft. oak plywood
ROOM DIVIDER PROJECT DETAILS
2"0=
+
4"
.+
Cutting List
Part No. Desc. Size Material
A 4 Top ond sole plotes 71 Y,' 2 x 4
B 4 Sale plate cross braces 15" 2 x 4
C Outer end ponel 95 W' xiS" 3/, ook plywood
D I Inner end panel 91" xiS" '(." ook plywood
E 3 Bose ponels 22" x 14'(. " 3(." ook plywood
F 3 Cobinet shelves 21 3(. " x 14'1, 3(." ook plywood
G 6 Cabinet risers 30" x 14'(." 3(." ook plywood
H Cobinet bock ponel 32" x 70" 1(." ook plywood
(ountertop panels 70W' x24" 3(." ook plywood
J Shelf unit supports 33" xiS" 3(." ook plywood
K Top, bottom shelf ponels 70y," xiS" 3(." ook plywood
L Center shelf ponel 69'1." xiS" 3(." ook plywood
M Shelf unit sides 25 W' xiS" 3(. " ook plywood
N Shelf unit risers 12 W' x IS" '(." ook plywood
0 Face frame roils 33 lineor ft. I x 4 ook
p
Foce frome stiles 26 linear ft. Ix200k
Q
Face frame stiles 12 linear ft. Ix300k
R Overloy doors see poges 46 to 47
Cabinet risers, cut from .' plywood,
have holes for pin-style shelf supports
drilled at 4" intervals, 2" in from edges
of each riser face. Holes start 9" from
top and bottom.
Shelf-unit panels, cut from 'I. " plywood, have W'-wide by '!,"-deep dadoes to hold
the shelf risers. The center shelf panel is dadoed on both the top and the bottom
faces, and the top and bottom shelf panels are dadoed on one face only.
120 THE COMPLETE CUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUILT-tNS
How to Build a Room Divider
1
Mark the location for the top plates
on the ceiling, using a framing square to
ensure that lines are perpendicular to
the wall. Locate wall studs and ceiling
joists in the project area, and install
blocking if necessary
4
2
cut two 2 x 4 top plates and
position them against the ceiling, with
the outside edges flush against the
reference lines. Check to see if plates
are level , and install shims if needed.
Anchor plates to ceiling Joists or
blocking, usi ng 3" screws.
5
cut two 2 x 4 sole plates, and align
them directly under the top plates, using
a plumb bob as a guide. Check to see
if plates are level, shim if needed, then
anchor the sale plates to the floor, using
3" screws.
Cut and attach 2 x 4 cross braces across the sale plates,
using 2'/''' screws. Position the cross braces at the ends of the
sale plates, and below the planned cabinet riser locations.
Measure and cut the outer end panel 'h" shorter than the floor-
to-ceiling height to allow for adjustments. Align end panel with
the edges of the 2 x 4 plates, then attach it to the top and sale
plates, using 2'h" screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.
Room Divider 121
6
Measure and cut the inner end panel 'h" shorter than the
distance between the top plate and sale plate cross braces,
and slide it in place. Align the panel with the edges of the top
plate and sale plate cross braces, then attach it to the wall
with 2'/," screws driven into wall studs or blocking.
Measure and cut plywood base panels the same width as
the risers. Lay one base panel across the sale plate cross
braces, butted against the riser at the inner end panel, with the
'{," recess at the back side (inset). Attach the base panel, using
2" finish nails.
Planned height
of
-------
tIll"

Measure and cut plywood cabinet risers with holes for shelf
supports (see Project Details, page 120). Risers should be '1."
narrower than end panels, and 1 '/," shorter than the distance
from sale plate cross braces to planned countertop height.
Attach a riser to each end panel, flush with the front edge, by
driving 1 '1." screws through counterbored pilot holes.
Make riser assemblies (for inner riser locations) by Joining
two risers together, back-to-back, with glue and 1 '{," finish
nails. Set one riser assembly on the cross brace next to the
first base panel, and attach it with 2W' screws driven through
pilot holes and into the base panel edge.
Install the middle base panel, then the second riser
assembly, then the last base panel, using the techniques
shown in steps 8 to 9.
12
Apply glue to the top of the fi rst countertop panel, then
set the second countertop panel on the first panel. Clamp
the panels together, then join them by driving '" screws up
through the underside of the first panel.
11
Measure and cut two plywood countertop panels, 24" wide,
to fit between the end panels and set the first panel on the
cabinet risers, flush with the front edges of the end panels. use
a framing square to adjust the risers so they are perpendicular
to the countertop, then drill pilot holes and drive 2W' screws
through countertop and into risers.
Measure and cut a W' oak plywood back panel to fit into the
recess created by the back edges of the risers and base panels
(see step 8). Set the back panel into the recess, then attach it
to the cabinet risers and base panels, using '" wire nails driven
at 8" intervals.
Room Divider 123
Measure and cut plywood shelf panels for the upper shelf
unit, then cut '!."-wide, 'I,"-deep dadoes at shelf riser locations
(see Project Details, page 120). Tip: "Gang-cut" dadoes to speed
up your work: mark locations for dado cuts on panels, then
clamp them together so dado marks align.
.
Center shelfY
panel
Shelf
risers
Measure and cut plywood shelf unit risers the same width as
the center shelf Stand the center shelf panel on its side, then
glue the shelf risers into dadoes. Reinforce the joints with 2"
screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.
Measure and cut plywood shelf unit sides. Make a 'I," -wide,
%"-deep dado in each side, where the center shelf panel will fi t
Bottom shelf panel
Assemble the remaining pieces of the upper shelf unit,
usi ng glue and 2" screws driven into counterbored pilot holes.
Attach side panels to center shelf, then attach top and bottom
shelf panels to side panel and shelf risers. Make sure diagonal
measurements of shelf unit are equal (if not, adjust unit as
needed until it is square).
Measure and cut plywood shelf unit supports. Supports
should be tall enough to leave a gap of about 1" beneath the
top plates when the shelf unit is mounted on their top edges.
Attach the shelf unit supports to the inner and outer end
panels, using glue and 1'1." finish nails.
20
Align the edges of the upper shelf unit with the edges of
the end panels. Attach the shel f unit by driving 1'1." finish nails
through the side panels and into the end panels. Space nails 4"
apart, along outer edges of shel f unit.
19
With a helper, lift the shelf unit onto the tops of the shelf unit
supports. There should be a gap of about 1" between the shelf
unit and the top plates.
21
Set a 2 x 4 brace between the countertop and the shelf unit,
then measure and cut 1 x 4 top and bottom rails for the face
frames. Miter the corner joints at the edges of the outer end
panel, and butt the trim against the wall at the inner end panel.
Drill pilot holes, and attach rails with glue and 2" finish nails
driven into panels and framing members.
Room Divider 125
22
Measure and cut 1 x 4 countertop rail to reach from the wall
to the outside edge of the outer end panel, on the front side of
the room divider. Attach the rail to the edge of the countertop,
using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
24
Measure and cut 1 x 2 stiles to fit between the countertop
rail and the top rail at the front of the room divider. Position
stiles over the edges of the end panel, and attach with glue
and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
23
Measure and cut 1 x 2 face frame stiles to fit between the
bottom rail and the top rail at the back of the room divider.
Make a %" x 1 W' notch in each stile, where the edge of the
countertop will fit Attach the stiles to the end panels, using
glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
Cover the countertop overhang with ornamental trim
molding mitered at a 45
0
angle at corner joints. Attach with
glue and 1 '/;" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
Measure and cut 1 x 3 stiles to fit between the bottom rail
and the countertop rail on the back side of the room divider
Position end stiles flush with the outside faces of the end
panels, and center the interior stiles over the riser assemblies.
Attach with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
28
Cut adjustable shelves for the cabinets, attach shelf-edge
trim if desired, then install shelves, using pin-style shelf
supports.
27
Attach W' shelf-edge strips to all exposed edges of the
upper shelf unit, using glue and 1" finish nails driven through
pilot holes. Cut horizontal strips the full length of the shelf unit,
then add vertical strips between the horizontal strips.
29
..

Cover gaps at ceiling with cove molding, and along floor and
wall with base shoe molding. Fill holes, sand, then apply finish.
Build, finish, and hang overlay cabinet doors (pages 46 to 47).
Attach all remaining hardware.
Room Divider 127
I Laundry Center
M
any of the areas where we do our laundry
lack two important features: organizat ion and
li ghti ng. T his laundI)' ce nter is a self-contai ned buil t-
in t hat funct ions like a roo m wit hin a room, addi ng
both storage space and tas k lighting for what can
ot herwise be a di sagreeable tas k. I t is built frolll a base
cabinet and butc he r block countcrtop on one side
of a 24"-wide, 7 ft. ta ll stub wall, and a bank of wall
cabinets on t he ot her side of the wal l. The cabinets
are designed to Ilt above a was her and dryer combo.
T he structure includes a ceiling with light fixt ures
mounted over bot h s ides, and a switch \\f ired into
the stub wall to cont rol t he I ights. The \vall s are built
from inexpensive wall sheathing a nd, along vl ith the
ceili ng, a re c lad with easy to \.vas h ti leboard that adds
brightness \vh ile contrasting with the maple wood of
the cab inets. The edges of the center are trimmed
v" it h c lea r maple.
If you are creating your built-in laundry center
in a room that di d not previously house your washer
and dryer, arrange for and have install ed the hookups
for both appliances before you bui ld. If you arc not
experienced with plu mbing and wi ring, hire a plumber
and elect ri cia n to run any new dra in, supply, dryer
vent or e lectrical service li nes. Also make sure to
identify potential sources for elect rical service to
pO\ver the lights (in t he vers ion seen here, \ve install ed
recessed c<:tnister lights over t he countertop <:tnd <:t bove
the washer and dryer).
Tools
Tape Measure
Level
Pencil
Square
Drill/driver & bits
Pmvder-actuated nai ler
Hammer or pneumatic
nail er
Jig saw
E
Tileboard ,/
F
H
Materials
(2) 4 x 8 sheets wa ll sheathi ng (7/16 OK, 23/32 better)
(3) 4 x 8 sheets tileboard with an 8-ft. inside corner
st rip and panel adhesive
(2) Recessed cani ster light with trim kit
( I) Undercabinet fluorescent fixture (direct wire) - 24"
( I) Clothes rod (24" ) wi th mounting hardware
I x 2, I X 4 and I x 6 maple for trim
32" vvide base cabinet
Butcher block countertop for base ca bi net
(2) 28" 2-door uppers
Electrical box. switch, 14/2 romex, switch plate
End pa nel for upper cabinets
Panel adhesive
D'Y'vall or dec k screws
Nail s
(4) I 'h x 3'12 X 96 pine
"
Tileboard
Cutting List
A Cop/Sill plate 1 'I, x 3'1, x 24" 2 x 4
B 3 Stud 1'/, x 3V, x 79" 2 x 4
C Full wall s;, x24x82" Sheathing
D Wall cop % x 5
1
12 x 79" Maple 1 x 6
E Ceiling 'I, x 24 x 100"' Sheathing
F Half wall 'l, x24x43" Sheathing
G 4 Top trim % x 5
1
/1 X cut to fit Maple 1 x 6
H Bose cabinet 34'1," h x 36" w Stock cabinet
Wall cabinets 12 x 30 x 30" Stock cabinets
J (ounlerlop 1'!. x2Sx36 Counlertop
'IoCan be pieced together from two boards joined at the
crotch of the L.
LW/J!dry Cellfer 129
I How to Build a Laundry Center
Attach the base plate for the stub wall perpendicular to the
wall, allowing space between the stub wall and the corner for
your base cabinet
Run cable and install boxes for the light fixtures. Hire an
electrician to do this if you are not experienced with home
wiring. (Note that you will need to apply for a permit and have
your wiring inspected.)
After toe-nailing the studs to the base plate (and
face nailing the stud next to the wall if possible) attach the cap
plate, making sure the studs are vertical.
FRAME THE STUB WALL
Thi s laundry center is anchored by a
tal l, 24"-widc stub wa ll , so start by framing the wa ll.
Measure out from the corner the width of your base
cabinet (36" here) and draw a 24"- long reference line
perpendicular to the wa ll. Cut a 2 X 4 wa ll plate to
24" and attach it to the Aoor. If you are building in a
basement wi th a concrete Aoor, li se pressure-treated
lumber for the base plate and attach it by dri ving
concrete nails with a powder-actuated nailer (photo I).
Cut three 2 x 45 to 79" long and attach them to
the base plate by toe-nailing (reinforce connect ions
wit h L-brackets if YOLI \\fish). The n, cut a 24"- long cap
pbte and nai l it to the free ends of t he st uds with 16d
common nails (photo 2). If you are instal li ng overhead
lighting, run cable from the power source (don't hook
lip the \,vires yet) through the studs and to an electrical
switch box mounted to the wa ll frame (photo 3). Also
run s heathed cabl e from the electrical box and out
through a hole in the wal l cap plate. Run enough cabl e
to reach the li ght fixtures. \lI,!e wired the fixtures in
series: the pO\ver lead goes to the electrical box for
the undercabi net light Il rst, and then runs from the
box to the canister light. If you prefer to swi tch the
light independentl y, install a double gang box and
cabl e for two switched circui ts.
INSTAll THE BASE CABINET
We designed thi s laundry center \vith matc hing base
and upper ca bine ts. I nsta l1 t he base cabi net between
the stub wall and the corner (photo 4- see pages 58
to 59 for informat ion on inst<Jlling base cabinets). You
ca n li se j ust about a ny type of cOllnte rtop materia l you
wish . We selected maple but cher block because it can
resist \vater and heat , requires very littl e maintena nce,
and makes a nice surface for fold ing laundry. Plus, it
matc hes the maple ca binets and trim boards . To secure
butc he r block, you need to drill extra- large guide hol es
through t he nailing strips on the base cabinet and
attach the countertop with a s hort sc rews and was hers
(photo 5). Thi s allows the material to move as it
expands and contracts, \vhi ch butcher bl ock will do.
4
!
Install the base cabinet between the stub wall and the
corner, making sure it is level and securely attached to at least
one wall.
INSTAll THE WAllS
At the ve ry least, yo u' ll need to cover bot h sides of
t he stub wa ll for your laundry center. If the wal ls
in your installation a rea are fit fo r coverin g with
tileboard, yo u "von't need to create a ny additi onal
"vall s ur faces. I n part to c reate an attachment
surface fo r t he c lothes rod, we a lso insta ll e d a wa ll
surface on t he left s ide of the project area. The
wa ll s urfaces are c reated by attach ing sheathing
to the wall studs and then bonding water-res istant
tileboard over the faces of t he s hea thing with panel
adhesive. C ut a piece of wa ll s heath ing that's t he
same widt h as the stub wa ll a nd reac hes the same
height ,vhe n placed on the countertop surface.
Attach the shea thing to the side of t he counte rtop
5
Attach the countertop material (butcher block is seen
here). The countertop should be flush against both walls and it
should overhang the base cabinet slightly.
Lnwzdry Cellfer 131
C.O.
, ..,.1Stud
'1 lot aiion
Attach wall sheathing to the wall to create a nai li ng surface
at the wall end of the countertop area.
Clad the stub wall on both sides with wall sheathing, making
sure to cut out accurately for the switch box.
area (photo 6). I nsert a coupl e of fur ring stri ps
bet\vee n the sheathing and t he wa ll to creute
aI rspace.
Clad the stub wall on both sides with wall
shea thi ng (photo 7). Ma ke a cutout for the switch box,
T he sheat hing on the countertop side should rest on
the counte rtop. Slip a coupl e of shi ms underneath the
\,vail sheat hing on the vvas her and dryer side so the
shea thing does not contact the floor, whi ch can lead to
wicking of water.
Cut pi cccs of tile board to fit t he wall surfaces and
attach them wi th panel adhes ive. Attach inside corner
stri ps c ut to Ilt at the inside corners of the countertop
area (photo 8), Rub t he t il e board surfaces aggressively
wit h ball ed-up towels to help seat the t il eboard into
the adhes ive.
HANG THE UPPER CABINETS
The upper cabinet s should be mounted on the \.vall s
so their tops a re nush wi th the top of the st ub wa ll and
they butt up aga inst the stub wa ll at the side. Attach
,",v ith a ledger sys tem or by dri ving cabi net scre\vs
through the mount ing strips and into the wa ll at stud
locations (photo 9), See p"ges 54 to 59 fo r more
informCiti on on hCl nging wCl II cabinets. If the exposed
ca binet e nd is not fini shed, purchase a nd install an
e nd panel to matc h the cabinet type (or, make one
from 'I, " pl ywood).
MAKE & INSTALL THE CEILING
You' ll find that it's eCisiest to c ut the ceil ing board,
attac h the til eboard and mOllnt the li ght fixt ures all
before you attach the ceiling asse mbl y to the st ub
wa ll and cabinets. Sta rt by cutting the ceiling boa rd
to size and shape from a piece of 4 x 8 sheathi ng
(photo J 0). We des igned the cei li ng to be 24" wide
above the ca binet, then to c ut back to J 8" wide over
the \,vail cabinets, whi ch creates CI 6
11
overhang above
the cabinets so an undercCl binet light fixture can
be mounted if you \vish . As shown, the
width of the structure is over 96", so a single pi ece of
4 X 8 ft . wall sheathing \,von't cover it. You'll need to
make the ceili ng in two pieces, so size the pieces so
the scam falls in the middl e of the top plate for the
stub wall.
8

Cover the wall surfaces with tile board, which is attached
with panel adhesive and set by rubbing with a rag.
10
install the wall cabinets so they are level and their tops are
flush with the top of the stub wall.
Cut the ceiling to size and shape from a piece of sheathing (you'll need multiple pieces if your project is more than 8 ft long).
Lnwzdry Cellfer 133
I
'------.I
Mount the hardware and box for the light f,xture to the
ceiling panel before you install the ceiling.
13a
Attach the ceiling panel to the laundry center wall and the
cabinets.
13b
Make the wiring connections at the light fixtures (left) and
at the switch (right).
Att<:lc h t il eboa rd to the ceili ng p<:lnel on the face
that wi ll be fac ing dovvll\,vard. Then, plot out the
locations for the light fixt ures and mount t he housi ngs
and ceiling boxes to the back of the ceiling pane l as
needed (photo II ). Set t he ceiling panel over the
laundry center and attac h it wit h nails or screws driven
into the top plate of t he st ub wa ll and the cabinet
sides (photo 12) .
HOOK UP LIGHTS & INSTALL TRIM
Make the wiring connections at t he light llxtures and
at the switch (photos 13a and 13b) . You wi ll need
to have a \viring inspection before making the Ilna l
hookup at the power source.
C ut pieces of I x 6" maple to muke the top t ri m.
Miter the outside and ins ide corners <:IS you inst<:l ll
the trim. Use a pneumat ic nai ler to <:Ittach the trim if
you have access to one (photo 14). Attac h the vertical
trim membe rs to cover the wa ll at the left s ide of the
project and t he end of the st ub wa ll (photo 15 ). Scribe
as necessary (see page 66) and rip the stub wall trim
to Ilt. For a more Iln ished look, round over the edges
of the vert ical trim pieces sl ightl y.
Fina ll y, sl ide in, level and hook up your was her
and dryer (photo 16). Make sure to follow local codes
for water and drain supply a nd for venting your dryer.
Attach the vertical trim boards, butting them up against
the top trim and keeping the bottom slightly above the floor.
Apply a finish and top coat to the trim boards as desired.
14
Trim out the top of the structure with 1 x 4 hardwood to
conceal the gap beneath the ceiling panel. If you prefer, you
can use crown molding here.
16
Install your washer and dryer (or have your appliance
dealer install them for you).
Lnwzdry Cellfer 135
I Towel Tower
I
f there's one place in the house that coll ects
everybody's stuff, it's the bathroom. Towels,
clothes, cleaning suppli es, even laundry. But some
fancy design \vork lI sing a couple of refri gerator \vall
cabinets and some cool carpentry create a ni che spot
that can provide a central locati on For al l kinds of
different items. Suitable even for small bathrooms,
this towel to\'ver also adds texture and color to the
space. And another added benefit to th is project is
the seating provided by the countertop top on the
cabinet.
The beadboard backi ng for thi s project is made
v,lith painted -%"-thick tongue and groove pine,
sometimes called carsiding. IVlore advanced carpenters
may prefer to make their own Cll s tom bead board from
hardwood and give it a custom wood fini sh.
The base for thi s project is an over-the-fridge si ze
wa ll cabinet (sometimes call ed a bridge cabinet ). At
I S!! high, it is within the range of comfortable seating
heights. But if you prefer a sli ghtly hi gher seat (and
rnany peopl e do), build a 2 X 4 curb for the cabinet to
rest on (see t he Window Seat project on pages 80 to 87
for information on how to install a seat in a 2 x 4 curb).
To conceal the seam where the towel tower meets
the Aoor, we trimmed around the base with base shoe
trim, mitering the corners. vVe used the same trim
stock to conceal the gap where the seatboard meets
the tongue-and-groove paneling. Here, however, \ve
added small miter returns to the ends of the base shoe
(sec pages 42 to 43).
Materials
32 sq. ft. tongue-and-groove paneling
(2) I X 6 X 8 Ft. pine
3 ft. crown molding
liz sheet W'-thick MDF
12 ft. qU<:Irter- round molding
Towel hooks
Fasteners
Cutting List
Key No. Description Size
A Overfridge cobinel ISh x 30w x 24d
B I Seotboord 0/, x 2S x 32*
C 8 T&6 pone ling %x S1flX 71 W**
D 2 Towel hook bockers . x SV1 x 27"
E 3 lin. ft. Crown molding CUi 10 fil (w/milers)
F 12 lin. ft. V.-round molding Cullo fil
Material
MOl
Pine
Pinelx6
Pine
Pine
'I- Finished size: requ ires slightly larger board for
machi ni ng
** Length equals di stcll1ce from top of seatbo<:l rd to
ceiling minus Ih"
E
c
Towel Tml'er 137
How to Build a Towel Tower
INSTAll THE BASE CABINETS
Begin by making t he seatboard that tops t he
refrigerator cab inet. Cut a piece of medium dens ity
fiberboard (M OF) so it is I " wider than t he cabinet
<:I nc! a couple of inches longer front -to-back (make
it about 26" if using a 24" cabinet as shown here).
Mount a piloted ogee or roundover bit (or ot he r
profil ing bit of your choice) into your router and shape
the front and side edges (photo I). You'll probab ly
get a litt le bit of blow-out at the bac k edge, whic h is
why it's recommended that you make the workpiece
a couple of inches too long. Once you've routed t he
profiles, trim the back edge so the front overha ngs t he
cabinet by I II, Coat all faces and edges with pri mer
and at least tv,ro coats of paint.
Rout a profile, such as an ogee or roundover, into the sides
and front of the seatboard. use a router table if you have one,
otherwise hand-machine it with a piloted profiling bit.
Attach t he seatboard with screws driven through
the mounting st rips on the cabinet top and into the
underside of the seatboard. The back edge of the
seatboard should be nush with t he back edge of t he
cabinet and t he overhang shou ld be equal on the
sides. Since this cabinet is small, it might be best to
clamp the blank in location on t he cabinet, then turn
the cabinet on its back so you ca n access t he faste ner
locations more eas ily (photo 2).
Install the cabinet in t he project location.
13aseboard and any ot he r obstructions shou ld be
removed from the project area. Slip shi ms below and
behi nd t he cabinet as needed to make sure it is leve l
and pl umb. Attac h t he cabinet to the wall by driving
2" wa ll board screws t hrough the cabinet bac k at wa ll
stud locations (photo 3) .
Because these cabinets are so small, it's easier to pre-gang
them together, then flip the assembly upside down to install
the seatboard.
3
-
INSTALL THE PANELING
T he backer boa rd for the towe l tower ca n be made
from a number of building materials, \,vhi le retai ning
the beadboard appea rance that lends a bit of country
style to t hi s project. The easiest and c heapest product
you can usc is beadboard pa neling: thin sheet stock
that comes in 4 X 8 ft . panels . You'll find a wide range
of colors, patterns and qua lit ies in the beadboard sheet
stock, including some that is pre-s ized to around 42"
for install at ion as v,rainscot ing. The c he<Jpest materied
has a pri nted pattern layer laminated over hardboa rd.
The better quali ty material has hardwood veneer over
a plywood or lauan backi ng. We chose real tongue-
and-groove boards made from pine. Wit h actual
dimens ions of 3/R x 5
1
hl!, the carsiding product we llsed
has e nough depth to create a convinc ing profi le but is
st ill relat ively inexpensive.
Because it is very un likely that the strips of
carsiding will be exac tly the same \,vidth as your base
cabinet once t hey're instal led, you' ll need to ri p-cut
the outside boards to fit t he project area (it is better
to rip-c ut bot h outer boards a n equa l amount tha n to
take everythi ng out of one of the boards). To gauge
where to make yo ur cuts, assemble enough boards to
cover t he widt h of the ca binet and lay t hem out on
a flat surface (photo 4). Mark the centerpoi nt of the
middle boa rd and measure out half the distance in
each direction . Ma ke rip-cut lines at t hese poi nts .
Midpoint
-\
Drive screws through the back of the
cabinet at the marked wall stud locations.
Layout the tongue-and-groove carsiding boards in a
row, with the tongues fitted into grooves. Measure out in one
direction (half the width of base cabinets) from a midpoint line
in the center board.
Towel Tower 139
Clamp a straightedge over a tongue-and-groove board,
placing a piece of scrap plywood underneath as a backer. Rip-
cut the board to the correct thickness for the filler piece.
Before ri pping the boards, tr im all of your
carsidi ng stock so it is 1/4" to 'htl shorte r than the
distance from t he seat board to the cei li ng. The n, t ri m
the outer carsiding boards to wi dth lIsing a table saw
(make sure you arc tri mming off the correct edge, be
i t tongue or groove), If you have access to a tablcsaw,
use it to make the cuts. Otherwise, use a c ircular saw
and a straightedge cutti ng guide. \rVith thin stock like
this, cutt ing a scrap wood backer board along \\l ith
the wor kpiece wi ll resu lt in a cleaner cut . iVlakc the
rip cut s (photo 5) and sa nd the edges if necessary to
smoot h out the cuts.
6
Press the trimmed filler board to the wall, seating it in
construction adhesive, at the left edge of the panel area.
Use" 4-ft. level to extend plumb lines di rect ly
li p t he \.va ll from the outside edges of t he seatboard.
Then, mark t he \,vall stud locations on t he seatboard
and cei ling \,vith tape. Begin install ing the carsiding
on the left side, wit h t he left trimmed boa rd. In most
cases, the tongue will be preserved on t hi s board and
shou ld be oriented inward (photo 6). Apply a hea\1'
bead of construct ion adhesive to t he back of t he board
and st ick it to the wal l. If it happens to fal l over a
\,vall stud, na il it in pl ace by dri ving (l fin ish nai l (or,
preferably, a pne umatic brad) th rough the tongue at a n
angle. The nai ls should be countersun k e nough t hat
they do not obstruct t he groove of t he adjoining board.
Continue installing boards until you reClch t he
right edge (photo 7) . Use plenty of adhes ive und dri ve
several nails when you hit a \va ll stud. If none of the
wall studs ali gn be neat h cars idi ngjoi nts, tac k the
board that fal ls over a wall stud by face-nailing once
at the top and once at the bottom. I n most cases,
you should be uble to tack each board at the top
too, nailing t hrough the face Cl nd into the stud \vall
cap plate (thi s will be concealed by crovm molding
anyway). Note: TI-le 1Iloun.ting boards for the towel
hooks will help hold the carsiding in place alice they are
attached at stlld locations.
Cut the towe l hook backer boards to le ngth from
I x 6 stock. For a more decorative effect, cut a chamfer
profil e into the edges (or just the top and bottom edges)
with a router a nd chamfe ring bit. Install the backer
7
Drive a pneumatic brad through the tongue of one of the
fa r-right boards, and into a marked wall stud.
9
-

board by driving 21hl! deck sc re\\/s, countersunk, CIt vvall
stud locations. Fill the sc rew hol es with wood putty.
Install molding around the bottom
of the ca binet to conceal the gap whe re it meets the
Aoor. Al so install quarter-round to conceal the gap
whe re the ca rsiding meets the cabinet seat board
(photo 8). i\/lake mitered returns at the end for a more
fini s hed ap pearance (see pages 42 to 43).
Attach crown molding to the top of the projec t
(photo 9), also making a mit ered return to fini sh the
ends of the molding (sec pages 42 to 43).
Sand a ll wood surfaces and fill na il hol es, scrcw
holes and visibl e gaps with wood putty. Paint the
project wi th primer and at least two coa ts of enamel
paint. Finally, attach the tov,'el hooks to the tov,lel hook
backers .

8
Install quarter-round or base shoe molding at the top edge
of the seatboard where it meets the carsiding. Tie the molding
back to the wall with mitered returns (see pages 42 to 43).
Attach crown molding at the top of the
project, creating mitered returns at the
ends. Mark the ceiling joists with tape.
Towel Tower 141
I Understairs Work Center
T
he irregular space beneat h a staircase can be used
for a variety of creat ive buil t-in projects. Because
the dimensions and <1n gles of understairs areas v<:I ry
widely, Ilnding stock cabinet ry that illS the space is
difficult. However, the design shown he re can be built
to fit almost any area .
The undcrstairs work center, in its simplest form,
is a pair of bas ic cabinets that support a countcrtop.
The basic cabinets are built to a sta ndard height ,
depending on t heir use. You can adapt the size of the
understa irs work center by s hortening or lengthening
the counte rtop and connecting shelf. A smal l ca binet
and upper shelves are added to fill out the remaining
space. The dept h of t he countertop also ca n be
adj usted to matc h t he width of your staircase.
Most understairs projects requ ire that you make
many angled cuts, but in the project shown here,
you will need to ma ke only a few miters and bevels.
Beveled cuts ca n be made with a pmver miter saw,
ci rc ular saw, or table saw.
Tools
Pencil
':
.l .....
"
l.
...... "
r. . ... .
'. . .... .
....
"
Tape rneasure
Level
T-bevel
C ircular saw
or table saw
Cutting List
Part No. Desc.
A Top shelf
B lower shelf
C Shelf deats
D 4 Cabinet sides
;:"
.:' "
, "
: " .
. ',
.:' '.
.-,
r .
. '.
r<
.....
....
f: ""
Cordless Drill/driver
Drill bits
Hamrner
Router with WI straight
bit and W' rabbet bit
Bar clamps
Power rn iter saw
Size Material
28 x 18" 3(. " plywood
42 x 18" 'I." plywood
12 lineal ft. I x 2
35';' x 24" 3(." plywood
E 4 Cabinet bose, top panels 19'1. x 24 " 'I." plywood
F 4 Cabinet shelves 19'1. x 24" 3(." plywood
G 2 Cabinet bocks 20 x 35" 'I." plywood
H (ounlerlop 32 x 64" 3(." plywood
Small cobinet side 18 x 24" 3(. " pl ywood
Materials
Shims
Fini sh nail s ( ]II , 1
1
/", " , 2" )
Utility screws ( ] ", ] 1/", ", 2Ih")
] 11 \,,'ire nail s
Trim molding
Finish rnaterials
Door and drawer hardv,Iare
Part No. Desc.
J Small cobinet side
26 lineal ft. oak 1 x 3
25 lineal ft. oak 1 x 2
1) 'I, x 4 ft. x 8 ft.
3) % x 4 ft. x 8 ft. oak pl ywood
Size Material
34 Y, x 24" W plywood
K 2 Small cobinet bottom & top 19Y. x 24" W plywood
L Small cobinet bock 20" x 34" 3(. " plywood
M Connecting shelf 27'/. x 24" '!." plywood
N Face frome pieces 26 lineal ft. I x 3 ook
0 Fa(e frome pieces 25 lineal ft. I x 2 ook
p
Shelf edge strips 4 lineal ft. 'I, plywood
Q
Drawers see pages 48 to 49
R Cabinet doors purchase to fit
Ulltlers/airs Work Cel1ler 143
I project Details
The side panels for the short cabinet (left), made from W' plywood, differ in size. Shelves and cleats, made from
plywood and 1 x 2 strips, are beveled A line connecting the tops of the two panels should follow the slope line of the
staircase. The side panels for the main cabinets (right), are also made from ,'
plywood, and have dadoes for the cabinet shelves and base, and rabbets for the
cabinet top. The taller side panel for the small cabinet fits against a main cabinet side
panel when the work center is installed.
so they fit flush against the understairs
cover. The shelf edging strips are cut
from oak 1 x 2, and mitered at the same
angle as the shelves.
Duplicate the slope of your stairs using a T-bevel. Set one
arm of the T-bevel in a level position against the back wall,
then align the other arm with the stairs (top photo). Transfer
the angle directly to your saw to make mitered and beveled
cuts (bottom photo).
Cover stair underside before you install your understairs
work center. Panels of 1%" plywood attached to the stringers
of the staircase create an understairs cover that can be
used to anchor shel f cleats. If you plan to add electrical or
plumbing li nes, do the work (or hire a professional if you are
inexperienced) before installing your built-in.
How to Build an Understairs Work Center
1
Mark the location for the shelf cleats
on the walls and understairs cover,
using a level as a guide. Butt the 12"
cleats against the back wall, and allow
at least 12" of clearance between the
countertop and the bottom shelf.
Measure and cut 'I,' plywood side
panels for main cabinets, then use a
router and an edge guide to cut rabbets
for top panels and dadoes for bottom
panels and shelves (see Project Details,
page opposite).
Measure and cut 1 x 2 shelf cleats to
fit along the reference lines on the walls
and the understairs cover (see Project
Details, page opposite). Bevel the cleats
on the understairs cover to match the
stair slope angle. Attach the cleats with
21// screws.
Clamp and glue the cabinet sides to
the top and bottom panels and shelves
to form rabbet and dado joints.
Note: If you plan to install center-
mounted drawer slides, mount slide
tracks before you assemble the cabinet.
Measure and cut ,' plywood shelves,
then attach a 'I,' hardwood strip to each
shelf edge (see page opposite) using
glue and finish nails. Set shelves on
cleats and attach with 1'1," finish nails
driven through pilot holes.
Reinforce each cabinet joint with 2"
finish nails driven at 4" intervals.
Ullders/airs Work Cellfer 145
Cut a ",' plywood back panel for
each main cabinet. Set each back onto
a cabinet frame so that all sides align,
then attach them to cabinet side, base,
and top panels using 1" wire nails.
Position one cabinet so the top panel
is pressed against the understairs cover
and front face is flush with edge of
stairway. Shim if needed, then toenail
into the floor through the side panels,
using 2" finish nails. For masonry floors,
attach with construction adhesive.
Position the other cabinet 'I,' away
from side wall, with front face aligned
with first cabinet. Check with a level
and shim if needed. Insert ' I. " spacers
between cabi net and side wall, then
anchor to wall with 2" screws driven
into framing members.
cut 1 x 2 cleats for the connecting shelf that fits between the
main cabinets. Mark level lines on the inner cabinet sides, then
attach shelf cleats to the cabinet sides by driving 1'1. " screws
through counterbored pilot holes.
Measure and cut a ." plywood connecting shelf to fit
between the cabinets, and attach it to the cleats with 1v."
finish nails. (If you plan to build a drawer using a center-
mounted drawer slide, attach the slide track to the shelf before
you attach the shelf to the cleats.)
1
Measure and cut a plywood countertop panel that extends
all the way to the back wall, with one side flush against the
understairs cover. Attach the countertop to top panels of
cabinets by driving finish nails down through the countertop.
Back panel
Top panel
Side panel
Build a small cabinet the same width and depth as the main
cabinets (steps 4 to 7). Adjust the height of the side panels to
follow the stair slope (see Project Details, page 144). Cut a v,"
plywood back panel, with the top edge sloped at the same
angle as the line between the side panel tops. Attach the back
panel to the cabinet with 1" wire nails.
13
Apply or install any special countertop finishing material, like
ceramic tile or plastic laminate. Obtain installation instructions
and follow them carefully if you have not installed tile or
lami nate before.
Position the small cabinet so the taller side panel is flush
against the main cabinet. Align the face of the small cabinet
with the face of the main cabinet, then check with a level,
shimming if necessary Connect the cabinets by drilling pilot
holes, and driving 1,/," screws through the side panels.
If the corner is open at the bottom of the stairs, attach
nailing strips to the understairs cover and cabinet sides, then
cut a plywood panel to fit the space, and attach it to the nailing
strips with 1" screws.
Measure and cut 1 x 3 rails to cover the edges of the
connecting shelf and the countertop. Miter the end of the
countertop rail that Joins the long, diagonal raii. Attach the
shel f and countertop rails flush with the countertop and shelf
surfaces, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
148 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & RUI LT I NS
16
Measure and cut 1 x 3 bottom rails for the cabinets. Also
cut a long, diagonal rail to fit along the edge of the understairs
cover. Miter the ends of the diagonal rail to fit against the floor
and the side wall, and miter the longer bottom rail to form a
clean Joint with the diagonal raii. Test-fit the rails, then attach
them with glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
18
Measure and cut 1 x 2 stiles for the front edges of the
cabinets. Attach the stiles, flush with the edges of the cabinet
sides, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through pilot holes.
Measure and cut 1 x 2 rails to fit between the stiles, so they
cover the cabinet shel f edges and are flush with the shelf tops.
Attach the rails, using glue and 2" finish nails driven through
pilot holes.
21 22
cut base-shoe molding to cover gaps along wall and floor
surfaces, miteri ng the corners. Tack the molding, using 2" finish
nails. sand, fill, and finish the understairs center.
Attach slide tracks for side-mounted
drawer slides, according to the
manufacturer's directions.
Build, finish, and install drawers (see pages 48 to 49) and drawer hardware.
Purchase or build and finish cabinet doors and hang them using 3,,' semi-concealed
hinges.
I Hobby Center
I
f you or someone in your family enjoys a hobby or
activity, whet he r it's computing, sc rapbooldng, drawing
or anyt hing el se that involves pl easant time seated and
engaged in your avocat ion, YOLI deserve to have a specicd
place set aside for that activity. And here, it is important
to note, "set aside" does not mean "spread out on t he
kitchen tabl e between family meals." A dedi cated spot
wi th loads of storage, a pleasing appearance a nd an
efficient footprint can all be obtained with this corner
hobby center provides the things you need to spend
time on your act ivity, not managing it.
I n thi s corner hobby center, upper and ]mver
ca binets are combined to deli ver excell ent and
attractive storage options. At the sa me time, some
on-s ite ca rpe ntry creates a stabl e frame for a spacious
but not overpov,rering desk. The laminate
des ktop confi guration provides not just room to spread
out a project or stage suppli es left and ri ght , but also
provides three access points (ce nter, left , and ri ght ) for
you to either move around a large project or for othe rs
to pull up a c hair and he lp or just watch,
c
A
Tools Materials Cutting List
Pencil (2) Base cabinets
Tape measure (2) Upper cabinets
A Bose cabinets 24 x WI,"
Level or laser level ( I ) Corner cabi net
Drill/driver (2) 8 ft. 2 x 3
B Upper cobinets 18 x 30"
Miter savv ( I ) Countertop C Corner cabinet 24 x 30"
Drl"'all or deck
D Wall deot l V1x 21/1 x 40" 2 x 3
screws
E Oiogonol deal l V1 x2Vl x59" 2 x 3
Finish nail s
Finishing materials
F lshope (ounterlop IV1X 25 x 72" Custom make
f-/ ohhyCellfer 151
I How to Build a Hobby Center
LAY OUT UPPER CABINETS
Start wit h the upper ca binets first, then install
the base units. Once the bases are set, frame
the desktop supports and insta ll the countertop.
The des ktop is laminate and whil e you can make
it you rself, \vo rking \vith laminates is a specialty
trade and it is ofte n muc h easier to orde r the unit
and have it delivered Locate and
strike the leve l line for the uppers 52
1
12 " a bove the
floor. Project each line 42" out from the v/al l corner
(photo I ).
Locate and mark the wal l studs below the level
li ne. Fasten a temporary ledger to the wa ll st uds
Project the level line for the upper cabinets 42" out from
each corner.
3
(photo 2). Set it be low the level line to s upport the
cabinets during installat ion.
LAY OUT THE BASES & DESKTOP
Measuring along the top of the base molding from
the corner, muke marks at 42" Cl nd 60" on the base
trim. T hi s is t he locat ion of eClch base cabinet. Use a
combinat ion square and mark square lines dovm to
the floor. The 18" of base/s hoe mol ding between the
lines \vill be removed to accept the base cabinets. In
the corne r, measure up 34'h" (the height of the base
ca binet) from the Aoor a nd ma rk eac h side of t he wa ll
(photo 3).
Fasten a ledger board for the upper cabinets just below the
level li ne.
Extend your tape in the corner and
mark each wall at 34%".
Plan Ahead ~
If you can pre-gang and install the upper cabinets in one shot, this will provide a quicker, more accurate installation, but
you'll need helpers to do this. It helps to transfer the location of the wall studs to the insides of the cabinets for future
reference so you're not searching for the studs while you're holding cabinets aloft (photo 41.
4
.. \ ..... ..
Fasten the upper cabinet to the wall studs to hold it in
place, but do not drive the screws all the way (this allows for
a little fine tuningl .
Note: If you have a carpet floor treat1llent, it may be
wise to place a base cahi'net in, position and use a 2Jt.
level to transfer its height to the wall. Remember, carpet
([-nd pad will COtllpreS5 some ance the cabinet has been
loadecllvith ite'lJ1.s so apply a little pressure lvhen doing
this. Once height is established, strike a level line 61 '/,"
out on each wall.
TI1e reason to strike the li ne out to 61 !h- inches is
because the deshtop extends J '12 II beyond the outside
edge of the base unit. Along the level line on eac1'. 1Vall,
mahe a 1uark at 42" and strike a plumb-Une down to the
Transfer the stud locations to the inside surfaces of the
cabinets before you lift them.
base molding. rn lis is dIe inside edge of the base cabinet
and the outside edge of the desktop ledger board. Locate
the 1Vallstuds and mark them along the top edge of the
level line.
INSTALL THE UPPERS
I f YOLI <:I re installing one cabinet at a ti me, start with
the center cabinet in the corner. Set it on the ledger
board and then dri ve screws into the wall at stud
locati ons (photo 5). Repeat for each end cabi net.
Hohh)' Cellfer 153
Before fully sinking wall screws, be sure the fronts of all
wall cabinets are flush. Make adjustments as necessary to get
them flush, clamp, pre-drill, then fasten.
8
Install ledgers below level line on wall studs. Note that
the second piece overlaps the first piece and must be cut 1 'h"
shorter to fit
Before fully sinking t he wa ll screws, clamp the
cabinets toget her, dri ll pil ot holes in t he cabinet si des
or face ffumes, <:I nd $creV,1 them together (photo 6).
Complete t he process by dr iving all wa ll screws tight ly
against the cabinet bac k. Add cabi net doors.
INSTALL THE BASE UNITS
Remove the base molding a lready marked usi ng a
pull -smv. Posit ion the base un its <Jgainst the \,vall at
the layoll t lines and then shim and faste n t he base
cabinets to the wall studs (photo 7). See pages 54 to
59 for more informat ion on insta lling cabinets.
Position the base cabinets at the layout lines and fasten
them to wall studs with screws.
cut the diagonal ledger brace with opposing miters. Long-
point to long-paint, it's 59".
ATTACH DESKTOP LEDGER
Because the desktop is onl y supported by cabinets
on t he ollt si de edges, YOLI mll st build a 3-piece ledger
system that supports the desktop bot h along the
wall and under t he fron t edge of t he desktop. 2 x 3s
\vork wel l for this. Cut a nd install ledger pieces a long
the \vall, fastening with two 3
11
screws into the wall
studs (photo 8). Me"sure " nd cut t he fi rst piece to
fit bet \.veen the wull a nd t he insi de edge of a base
cabinet . A piece just shy of 42" should fit. Cut and
install t he second piece. A pi ece j ust shy of 40
1
12 11
shou ld fit.
Cut a 2 x 3 to 59" (Iong- to-Iong) with opposing
miters (photo 9). Pre-dril l and pre-set screws in
the mitered ends of the diagona l brace the n install
(photo j 0).
INSTAll THE DESKTOP
Have a cus tom des ktop made to lit from particlebord
and laminate, or any other suita bl e materials. Or,
make your own (see pages 62 to 77). Get a he lper and
pbce the desktop on top of t he base ca bine t/ ledger
system (photo I I). Fine tune the desktop placement
onto the layout marks and faste n from be neat h.
Fasten from inside the base ca binets as wel l as
through the ledger system's di agonal brace. Fasten ing
through the di agona l brace req uires pre-drilling and
10
pre-drill (to prevent splitting) and pre-set screws in the
mitered ends of the diagonal brace and install.
pre-drill then drive screws at an angle through the diagonal
brace into the desktop.
insta lling scre\vs on a n angle (photo J 2). Be curefui
not to puncture the top s urface of t he laminate.
APPLY YOUR FINISH
The fini sh details are relat ively minima l on this
project , since it is made out of prefin ished cabinets
and a pre-built desktop. Yo u ca n caulk bet\vee n t he
cab inet edges and t he wa ll as necessary, or \vrap t he
base cabinet bottoms \vi th base molding as necessa ry
(you can skip thi s if the Aoor is carpet) and prime and
paint the ledger system boards the sa me as the wa ll
color. One great addit ion is to instal l an undercabinet
light beneat h the upper cabinets to provide focused
task li ghting (photo \3).
With a helper, position the desktop on the cabinets and
ledger system.
13
install task lighting and add convenient receptacles
according to your skill and comfort level with wiring.
Hohl')' Cellfer 155
I Bath Cabinet
C
abinetry and casework are fu ndamental to
making bu il t- ins a nd bookcases. T his s mall
wall-h ung cabine t is a useful item for bathroom
or ki tchen, and it is a great project for a beginning
carpente r to develop some bas ic cabi netry skill s. It
is also extremely inexpensive to make. The enti re
case, including the top, can be bui lt from an 8-ft.-
long piccc of I X 10 wood (you' ll nccd a li ttle extra
material for the she lving and the towe l rod). The
mitered frames appl ied to t he fronts of t he door give
the look and fee l of a raised pane l door, wi t hout any of
the fuss.
\tVe built the version of t he cabi net YOLI see here
out of No.2 and better pine and t hen gave it an
orangey maple finis h. You can choose any lumber
you like for thi s, eve n sheet stock slich as j\lIDF, and
apply a clea r or a painted fi ni sh . For a traditional look,
c hoose a whi te enamel pa int. Be sure and apply several
thin coats of polyuret hane varn ish, especiall y if the
cabinet wi ll be insta ll ed in a \vet area like a bathroom.
Tools
Pencil
Tape measure
Combinati on square
Router, proflling bit
C ircular sa\\,
Jig saw
C lamps
Hammers
Drill/ driver
3// Spade bit
Materials
( 1)8ft.lxIO
( 1) 4ft. I x8
( I) '1." Dowel
( I) Screen retainer
molding ( 10 lineal ft. )
(2) Door knobs
(2) Touch latches
(2) Hi nges
Drywall or deck sc rews
Fini sh nails
Fini shing material s
Cutting List
Part No. Desc.
A Top
B 2 Sides
C 2 Doors
D 2 Shelves
E Towel rod
F Wall cleot
G Door molding Ishortl
H Door molding (long)
Size Material
lf4 X 9
1
/4 X 19\11 I x 10 pine
3f4 x 7
1
/ , x 2m;. I x 100ri x 8pine
0/.x 9x15 IxlOpine
3/4 x 7 X 16
1
/1 I X 8 pine
t Square = 1"
0/. x 18" Dowel
lf4 xl
1
j, x16
1
h, I x 2 pine
T
3/4" towel rod
1h x o/l x(utlont Retainer molding
0
lh x . xcuttofit Retainer molding
5
1
/4"
11
Bath Cabillet 157
How to Build a Bath Cabinet
PREPARE THE STOCK
This bathroom cabinet can be made almost entirely
from a single 8-ft. J x J 0 using basic tools. (Jf you
buy a J O-footer you' ll have enough stoc k to make all
but t he middl e shelf, whi ch ca n easil y be made from
,mot her piece of wood or even glass. ) At your local
lumberyard or building ce nter, hand-select a board
(pine or another wood: No.2 or better pine is muc h
cheaper than other types in most areas). Look for a
board that's stra ight and free from defects li ke large
knots or waney (bark-like) edges. When you get the
board home, trim around 1/4
11
off eac h end (never trust
the factory ends- t hey' re seldom squa rely cut ).
Cut the top board to 19
1
/2 ". Then, cut a n ogee
profile into the fron t edge and the side edges ll sing a
pi loted ogee bit (photo I). Be sure to attach blocking
at the back edges to prevent the router bit from
turning the corner and cutting into the back edge. If
you don't own a router, you can simply hand-sand a
roundover in the bottom edges or you can try cutti ng a
chamfer profile with a hand plane (a tricky job, but a
good ski ll to develop).
Next , cut the stock for both doors to length, plus a
litt le bit (cut a piece around 30'h" long) a nd either rip-
cut the edges to get a clea n surface on both si des or
sand them or plane them smooth (photo 2). The nna l
v,lidth of the materia l should be 9", Once the stoc k is
prepared, cut the doors to length,
Shape a decorative profile into the top
using a router and pil oted agee bit. Do not
remove more than %" of material along
the bottom edges.
use a tablesaw, circu lar saw, plane or
sander to get straight, criSp edges on the
cabinet door stock.
Cut the stock for the cabinet sides to \vidth
(7'/''') or select a pi ece of I X 8 stock and si mpl y sand
the edges . Then enlarge the patt ern on page 157
using a photocopier to make a hardboard template
of the curved shape. Trace the profile on one si de ,
refe rencing up from t he bottom of the board (photo 3).
Cbrnp the tvvo sides together so the ends a nd
edges all are flush . Then, cut out the profile in
both pi eces at once using a jig SJ\>V (photo 4). Make
your cuts j ust short of the cutting line. When the
cut is fin ished, do not unc larnp the ganged sides.
Use a sa nder or a round file to srnoot h the cuts and
rernove waste wood exac tl y up to t he cut ting lines.
An oscillating spindl e sander is t he best tool here.
Another good idea is to rnOll nt a drurn sa nder in a drill
Photocopy the pattern on page 157 and use it to make
a hardboard template a guide to trace the profile onto the
bottom of one cabinet side.
Cut both side profiles at the same time, staying just outside
the cutting line so you can sand precisely up to the cutting line.
press. Lastl y, before you unelamp the sides, locate
the centerpoint for drilling the W'-di a. dowel hole
for the towel rod. Drill t he hole wit h a 3/)' spade bi t,
rn aking su re to slip a backe r board underneat h the
bottorn board to prevent tea rout \vhen the bit exits the
workpiece (photo 5).
ASSEMBLE THE CABINET
Assembl ing your bat hroorn cabinet is a sirnple process
of glu ing, clarnping and nai ling. It is \,vorth investing in
a coupl e of 24" bar clarnps or pipe clarnps if you don't
O\vn t hem already, alt hough another option is to use
screws instead of nail s to fasten t he parts, relying on
the scre\vs to provide clarnp-l ike pressure to the glue
joints. Onl y do thi s if you are painting the cabinet.
Still with the sides ganged together, drill a %"dia. hole for
the towel rod, using a backer board under the bottom side.
Balh Cahillel 159
Press the two shelves and the cleat between the cabinet
sides after applying glue to the ends.
Glue the ends of the towel rod into the holes in the cabinet
sides and then pin it in place with a finish nail driven through
the back edge of each side.
Lay the side boards on a Aat surface, lying parallel
and on t heir back edges. C ut the j x 2 cleat and the
7"-wide shelves to length ( j 6'h"). Note: The sl/elves
are 1// narrower than the sides to provide clearance for
the doors. Position the cleat and the shelves between
the cabinet sides, making SHre ever),thing fits squarely.
Then, apply wood glHe to the ends of all three parts and
clamp tl1Cm between the cabinet sides (photo 6). Then,
clamp the sides with bar c lamps and c heck wit h a
framing squa re to ma ke sure t he sides arc square
to the she lves. Also make sure the middle shelf is
perpendicular to the s ides.
Before the gl ue sets (aboll t 15 minutes) drive
three 6d nni s h nails through the cabi ne t sides and into
eac h s he lf end . Drive a pair of nails into the wa ll c leat
(photo 7). It is always a good idea to drill pilot holes
for na iling. Insert the towel rod into the holes in the
Reinforce the glued joints with 6d fillish nails driven into
pilot holes.
Miter the corners of screen retainer molding and nail and
gl ue decorative frames to the door fronts.
cabinet sides . Once it is in position, pus h it invvard Ihi!
or so on one side and apply glue to the inside surfaces
of the dowel hole. The n, press the rod from the other
side to revea l about 1// of the hole a nd apply gl ue.
Push the rod so the e nds are Aush \,vith the ca binet
si des and the dri ve one 3d finish nail through the back
edge of eac h cabinet s ide and into the dowel to pin it
in place (photo 8).
HANG THE DOORS
C ut strips of half-round screen reta iner molding to
make decorative fra mes for t he fronts of the cabinet
doors. Mi ter the corners (photo 9). The frames should
be inset \11 or so from the door edges on all sides .
Attac h the frames to the door fronts with glue and a
few Ih!l wi re brads.
Note: NOllJ is a good time to finish or paint your
bathroom cabinet. Be sure to sand all the surfaces well
and Jllake sure yon remove any dried glue- the stain
and finish won't stick to it. We used a Swedish
maple stain on our pine cabinet because it imparts a rich.
color (it resembles orange shellac) and disguises the fact
that pine has very little wood grain. We added three thin
coats of wipe-on varnish after the stain dried (photo 10).
Hang the cabinet doors with 11// brushed chrome or
nickel butt hi nges (photo I I). In most cases, you' ll need
to cut shallow mortises in the cubinet sides and door for
the hinges. Center the cabinet top so the overhang is
equal on the side and the back is flush with the cabinet
back. Attach the top by dri ving a few fini sh nail s through
it and into the top edges of the cabinet sides, as \vcl l as
in to the top edges of the wall cl eat (photo 12). You' re
better off not usi ng glue to attach the top.
Install a touch latch at the top of each door opening.
Apply your finish or paint the cabinet before you hang the
doors and install the cabinet top.
Attach the finished cabinet top to the cabinet sides with
4d finish nails.
HANG THE CABINET
Locate wall studs in the insta llation area . Where
poss ibl e, position the cabinet so it hits two studs.
Attac h the cabinet wit h v,rood sc rev,Is driven through
the wa ll cleat and int o the studs (photo J 3). If you
only have one stud avu ilabl e, dr ill u 1/4 " hole t hrough
t he c lea t , as fa r fro m stud location as you cun ge t
a nd still have access . Positi on the cabinet against
t he wa ll and ma rk t he hole ont o the wa ll by insert ing
a finish nail into the hol e. Re move the cabinet and
install a plastic screw insert at the hole loca ti o n.
Heplace the cabinet a nd dri ve a screw so it catches
the insert. Then the cabinet and screw
the wall clea t to the wa ll at the s tud locat ion. Drill
pil ot holes in the doors and install door knobs with
screws.
Hang the doors. Use care to position the doors so the outside
edges are flush with the outer faces of the cabinets sides. The
tops should be about %" below the top edges of the cabinet sides.
13
Hang the cabinet. If you don't have access to two wall
studs, use a plastic screw insert or other hanging hardware in
addition to fastening the wall cleat to a wall stud.
Balh C(lhil1el 161
I Kneewall Cabinet
A
kneewa ll is a short wa ll that meets t he slope of
the rooRine in an upstairs room. By cutt ing a
hole in a kneev.rall and instcdling a recessed cabinet,
YOLI ca n turn t he wasted space beh ind it into a useful
storage area.
Because the body (carcase) of a kneewall cabinet
is not visi bl e, it can be built using ordinary pl y\'wod
and simple butt joints . The face frame and drawer
faces, however, should be buil t \vith hardwood, and
Anis hed carefull y.
The project shown here fit s in a space that is
30" wide- the standard width of two adjacent stud
cavities wit h a center st ud removed. Before begi nni ng
\,vork, check the spacing of studs and the locat ion of
e lectri cal or plumbing li nes be hind your kneewall.
Your kneewall may have a remova ble access pa nel,
whi ch makes it easy to check behind the wal l.
You can make the cabinet wider or narrower to fit
your wall st ud spacing, but regardl ess of size, be sure
to leave a few inches of space between the back of the
cabinet a nd t he rafters.
--
Tools Materials
Level Dryv/al\ or deck screvvs
C ircular saw or jig saw ( 1", 2", 3")
Flat pry bar Fini sh nails ( 1Ihll, 2", 3")
Reciprocating saw Wood glue
Dril l Fini shing materi als
Tape measure Drmver hardware
Bar or pipe clamps
Hammer
Nail set
Stud
,
Outline of :
face frame :
Cripple stud
Header (A)
Rough
opening
Stud
Cripple
stu
Sill (A)
FRAMING FRONT VIEW
Header (A)
Outline of

Pedestals
, .
V
outlme
of face
frame
Sill
F;:::=;:t:;;lj-- (A)
FRAMING SIDE VIEW; CUTAWAY
Cutting List
A H"der and sill 6 lin'" h. 2 x 4s
B 2 Pedestals 14" xiS" 2 x 4s
C 2 Sides 19" x 28'/," 'I." plywood
D 2 Top and bottom 19" x 30" W plywood
E 2 Shelves 19" x 28Y," W plywood
F Bock ponel 30" x 30" '!." plywood
G Face frame II lin'" ft. Ix400k
H Shelf roils 5 lin", h. Ix200k
Drawers see poges 4B to 49
Klleewall Cabillet 163
KNEEWALL CABINET PROJECT DETAILS
pedestals installed behind the kneewall create a sturdy
base for the cabinet Built from 2 x 4s, the pedestals raise the
cabinet so it fits above the sill. Raising the cabinet also makes
drawers more accessible.
Face frame is 1 x 4 hardwood, which will cover the rough
edges of the wall opening The shelf rails are made from 1 x 2
hardwood to maximize the size of the drawer openings.
I How to Build a Kneewall Cabinet
Locate wall studs in area where cabinet will be installed.
Mark the cutout on the wall, using a level as a guide. Bottom
of cutout should be at least 3" above baseboard, and sides
of cutout should follow edges of wall studs. Height of cutout
should be 3'/. " taller than overall height of cabinet, to allow
space for a header and sill. Caution: Check for wiring, pipes,
and ductwork before cutting into any wall.
Cut away the center stud at the top and bottom of
the opening, using a reciprocating saw Remove the stud.
Remaining portions of cut studs are called "cripple" studs.
Measure and cut a 2 x 4 header and sill to fit snugly between
side studs. Position in opening, check for level, and shim if
necessary. Attach the header and sill to the cripple studs and
side studs, using 3" screws.
set the pedestals on the floor inside the wall opening, even
with the sides of the framed opening. Check to make sure
pedestals are level, and shim between the pedestals and the
floor if necessary. Attach pedestals to the floor, using 3" screws.
Measure the distance from the floor behind the opening to
the top of the sill, and build two 2 x 4 pedestals to this height
{see Project Details, previous pagel. Join pedestal pieces
together wi th gl ue and 3" screws.
Measure width and height of the rough opening between
framing members. Cut side panels 2" shorter than the height
of rough opening. Cut top and bottom panels '/," shorter than
the width of rough opening. Cut shelves 1 'j," shorter than the
width of the opening
Klleell'nll Cnhillel 165
Attach drawer slide tracks to the
center of the bottom panel and the
shelves, following manufacturer's
directions.
Clamp and glue the shelves to the
side panels to form butt Joints. Reinforce
the joints with 2" screws driven through
the side panels and into the edges of
shelves.
Clamp and glue the top and bottom
panels to the side panels, then reinforce
the joints with 2" screws.
Measure and cut 'f," plywood panel to cover the back of the
cabinet. Attach with 1" screws or wire nails driven through the
back and into the side, top, and bottom panels.
Measure the width and height between the inside edges
of the cabinet. Cut the rails to the width. Cut the stiles to
the height pl us 7". Clamp and glue rails between stiles, and
reinforce joints by toenailing 3" finish nails through the rails
and into the stiles.
Apply glue to the edges of the cabinet. then position the face
frame over the cabinet so the inside edges of the face frame
are flush with the top, bottom, and side panels. Attach the face
frame by drilling pilot holes and driving 1'/," finish nails into the
cabinet every 8". use a nail set to countersink the nail heads.
Anchor the cabinet by drilling pilot holes and drivi ng 3"
finish nails through the face frame and into the wall framing
members. Also, drive 3" finish nails through the bottom of the
cabinet and into the sill.
Slide the cabinet into the opening so it rests on the
pedestals and the face frame is against the wall surface.
Sand and finish the cabinet face frame, then build, finish, and
install overlay drawers (pages 48 to 49).
Klleell'nll Cnhillel 167
I Club Bar
O
wning your own i n-house bar makes a statement
about you. For some, it might say "[ have arrived
<J nd this is my space!" vVhi le for others a bar might
say "vVelcome, friends, OUf home is your home." And
for ot he rs, we ll , let's just say t he possi bil it ies are fa irl y
wide-rangi ng. But whatever stol)' your bar tell s- be it
one of quiet aperi tifs before dining, casual aft ernoons
watching t he big game, or raucous evenings of wild
revelry- building you r bar yourself personalizes t he
tale and adds a feature to you r home that wil l have a
direct impact on ho"v well YOLI enjoy yo ur home li fe.
The bar shown here is sleekly styled and smartl y
laid out for the efficient barkeeper. A small refrigerator
gives YOll access to cold dri nks and ice \vhi le
conveni e nt cabinets create excellent storage spots For
party favo rs.
While thi s is a "dry bar" (no plumbing), the design
could be modified in any number of \vays to add runn ing
V,lelter if you v,fish. AJI you need to get the party started is
a GFC! electrical outlet and t he proper Aoor space.
This compact corner bar design Features glossy
black MDF aprons with decorative cherry appliques
forming a horizontal grid pattern on the aprons. A cherry
plywood bartop sits atop a 2 X 6 L-shapcd knccwall ,
harboring some practical amen ities on t he bartender
side. A Ai p-up lift gate in t he bartop on one end prO\odes
reiss-through access a nd ca n even function as a v,lait
stat ion if you \"/ant to get really fancy in your hosting
The key components- base ca binets, a laminate
counte rtop, the fridge, and the wood For a sleek Asian-
inspi red style trim-out-set the stage fo r you r next
gathering. Let's party.
C 1 1 l 1 ~ Bar 169
Tools
Miter saw
Table saw
Circular S3\V
Drill/driver
Level
St ud finder
Pull S3\'V
Flat bar
Pneumatic nai ler/compressor
Combination square
Materials
24" base cabinet
(l0) 2 x 6" x 8 ft. SPF
(I ) % x 4 x 8 cherry plywood for bartop
(I ) 3j, x 4 x 8 particleboard
Hefrigerator ( 19w 22d 32-
3
/'" h)
Postform countertop
(mi tered, 6 ft. eac h leg)
16d common nail s (2) 6 ft. st ri ps 'h x 16" cement board
20 sq . ft. 4 x 4 \va ll tile
Thinset and grout
'1;" thi ck cherry- 2 @8 x 42" (actual )
3/, x 1 'I," che rry approx 80 lineal ft.
(2) 'I," x 4 x 8 ft. MDP
Panel adhesive
[ Ih" wallboard screH's
Finish nai ls (4d, 6d)
Finishing materials
Glue
36" base corner ( 12" \,vide doors) Piano hi nge
Cutting List
A 4 Sill/heoder 11/1 x 5
1
11 x 68" 2 x 6
B I I Stud lVl x 5Vl x 38" 2 x 6
c 2 Bartop 0/. x 16 Vl X 80" Cherry plywood
D Bm substrate 3,1. x 16 Vl x 80" Particleboard
E I Bar substrate 0/. x 16Vl x 65 V4' Particleboard
F 2 lift gote 0/. x 16 Vl X 22 1//' Cherry plywood
G Bortop trim 0/. x 1 W' x cut to fit Cherry
H 2 End cop 0/. x 7V. x 41" Cherry
7 Trim stiles l/. x lVl x41" Cherry
J 16 Trim rails 3f4 x lVl x cut to fit Cherry
K (ountertop cleol 1111 x 1111 x 22" 2 x 2
L lift gote stop black % x lVl x 18" Cherry
M Apran Vl x 40Vl x 68%" MDF
N Apran Vl x 40Vl x 68%" MDF
Cluh Bar 171
How to Build a Club Bar
BUILD THE KNEEWALLS
The bar top is supported by a pair of heavy-duty 2 x 6
kncc\valls that arc anchored to t he wal l and fl oor unci
meet in an L. This confi guration presumes rhGlt you'll
be installing the bar in the corner of the room. If that
confi guration doesn't work for your space, YOLI can use
si milar building strategies, but redeSign the project as
a straight -l ine or a U-shape bar.
Cut the 2 x 6 sill plates to length (68"). Measure
out from the corner the distance of the sill plates plus Lhe
pass-through opening width plus 3// for the thi ckness of
the end panel (923j," here). Mark a reference line and
lay a sill plate at thi s di stance, perpendi cular to the bac k
project wa ll. Arrange the second sill plate so the end
172 THE COMPLETE CUI DE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUl t:l' INS
Anchor the sill pl ates for the kneewalls
to the floor so they form a right angle at
the corner where they meet.
use panel adhesive and deck screws
to attach the end kneewall stud to the
back wall, attaching at a stud location
wherever possible.
overlaps the open end of the Rrst si ll plate and the two
form a perfect 90 degree angle. Join t he corners with
screws or a metal connector to keep them from moving
during installat ion, and t hen anchor the si ll plates to the
fl oor. Use 16d common nail s or screws (shown in photo
I) and panel adhes ive for a wood floor; use a powder-
actuated nailer on a concrete fl oor (photo I).
Once the sills are in pl ace, attach t he end stud
against the back wall. I f you are lucky (or planned well )
the stud will fall over a wall stud. If the new kneewall
must fall over a stud bay in the room wal l, you'll need
to remove some wallcovcring and install a nailing cleat
between the closest wall sl uds so YOLI have a very sturdy
surface to anchor the end of the wa ll (photo 2).
3
Next , make the stud wall corner, following the
diagram on page 170. Use 16d common nail s to toe-
na il the studs to the si ll pl ates (photo 3). Install a stud
at the free end of the return, then fill in wi th evenl y
spaced intermediate studs spaced no morc than 16
1t
apart. C ut cap plates the same size as the si ll pl ates
and insta ll them with pane l adhesive and three 16d
common Il <:liis dri ven t hrough the tops of the caps and
into the end of eac h wall stud (photo 4). C heck eac h
stud with a level before na ili ng.
Toe-nail the corner studs to the
sill plates as shown in the diagram on
page 170. Use a level to make sure the
studs are vertical.
complete the framing for the L-shaped
kneewall section. For extra strength, drive
a few 3" deck screws through the studs
where they meet at the corner.
MAKE THE APRONS AND TRIM
The decorat ive front apro ns for thi s bar are made
from 'h"- thi c k IV1 DF (medium-density fibe rboard)
panels that have a glossy blac k finish and arc trimmed
\vit h strips of cherry arranged ina staggered ladde r
pattern. If you' re feel ing ambitious, apply a genuine
black lacquer Ilni sh. Or, you ca n corne close to the
black lacquer look wit h a qua lity sa tin or gloss jet
black enamel pai nt . Either way, for the smoothes t
possible fi ni sh, cut a nd prepare the panels and spray
on the blac k lacquer fini s h wi th an HVLP sprayer.
C 1 1 l 1 ~ Bar 173
Rip tvvo sheets of Ill" iVI DF to 42" \,vide and then trim
them to length to make the bar front panel s. Sand t he
edges to remove any saw marks. Then, appl y primer
to all faces and edges. When t he primer dri es, spray
black lacquer or pai nt onto the front face and edges
(photo 5). I f you do not have access to a good sprayer,
use a paint roll er with a short-nap sleeve.
After installat ion, the black aprons wi l l be
decorated wit h a grid made from strips of cheny.
You can use dimensional 1 X 2 cherry for thi s, but
you' ll save a lot of money and get better edges if you
purchase random widt h cherry, then plane and joint
it to thi ckness and rip it to widt h (photo 6) . For the
project shown here, you'l l need at least 40 l i neal feet
of stock for t he apron t rim, pillS anot her 40 f t. for the
bar countertop edging.
For the smoothest possible finish, spray the front apron
panels with an HVLP sprayer Apply the paint or lacquer over
primer, in thi n coats.
For efficiency, apply a protective finish to the cherry apron
trim stock. Dab some finish on the cut ends after you cut each
trim piece to length.
Sand t he edges of the cherry t rim to remove saw
marks and smooth t he surfaces. Apply a cl ear protect ive
wood fi ni sh, such as wipe-on polyurethane varni sh,
to half the st ock for LI se as apron trim (phot o 7). T he
other halF of t he stock \,vill be lI sed For edging the
countertop. You'll need to cut an edge profi le in thi s
stoc k and attach it to t he countertop befo re fi ni shing it.
INSTALL THE KNEEWALL COVERINGS
T he front f aces of the L-shaped kneewall are covered
with the aprons and apron trim. The bac k sides
(t he bartender view) can be cove red with just about
anythi ng you wish. \;Ve used a cement board bac ker
and some wa ll t il e for a nice looking walt covering t hat's
durabl e and easy to clea n. It's easier to install these
wa llcoveri ngs before the bartop has been install ed.
prepare at least 80 lineal feet of '/. x 1'(," hardwood stock to
trim out the aprons and edges of the bartop.
Apply panel adhesive to the kneewall studs to strengthen
the bond wi th the black aprons. Sli p a 'I.-thick spacer beneath
each apron to create a gap between the panel and the floor.
Nail the apron panels to the wall studs at 8" to 12" intervals.
11
You don't need to create fu ll toe-kick recesses
<:It the bottoms of the Clpron panels, alt hough you
certainly call if YOLI wish. But it is a good idea to insta ll
the MDF aprons so they arc not in contact \.vith t he
fl oor, especially if your installat ion is going into a
base ment or any ot he r area that Inay be subject to
moisture problems . The eas iest \vay to do this is simply
to cut a piece of II/I-thick sheet stoc k sc rap and sli p it
up aga inst the sill plate. T he n, test the fit of t he apron
panels. Trim if needed, t hen apply beads of pa ne l
adhesive to t he front edges of t he \.vall frame members
(photo 8) and attac h t he ap rons wit h a pneumat ic
na il er and 2'h" finis h nails (photo 9). You can hand- nai l
them at wal l stud locations wit h 6d finish nai ls if you
prefer. Cover nail heads wit h wood putty.
Attach cement board strips to the edges of the kneewall
framing members as a backer for the backsplash area.
Install the inside wallcovering before
you cap the wall.
Depending on \vhat type of cabine ts you're
install ing, it like ly is not necess<:Iry to fin ish the insi de
faces of the kneewa ll s lovver than the COllntertop
he ight. For install ing \,vall ti le, we cut
strips of cement board and attached t hem
to t he wall st uds flus h wi t h the top of the cap plate
(photo I 0). Make sure that scams fa ll over studs.
Install the wall ti le (photo I I ). We used
inexpensive 4 x 4" ceramic \va ll ti le set into a layer
of th inset adhesive t hat's trowe led onto the cement
board . Whichever \va ll covering you use, it should
extend down past the top of t he cou nte rtop (in th is
case, t he top of t he preformed backsplash), and the
edges shou ld be covered by the e nd panel you' ll be
insta ll ing at t he free end of the kneewal l.
Bar 175
12
Bond the particleboard subbase directly to the top plates
of the kneewalls, taking care to achieve even overhangs of 6"
in front and 4" on the bartender side of the walls.
13
Drive plenty of 2" deck screws to secure the subbase to
the walls. The screw heads must be sunk beneath the wood
surface.
Make 4s-degree miter cuts in the bartop top layer using a
circular saw and cutting guide.
INSTALL THE BARTOP
T he bartop install ed here is made of a particleboard
subbase that's thoroughly bonded and screwed to the
top plates of the !meewal!. A cherry plywood top layer
then is attached to the narrow particleboard subbase.
The subbase is laid out wi th a butt joint at the corner
for ease and for st rengt h, but for a more refined
appearance the pl ywood top is mitered at the corner.
When cherry edging is added on all sides,
the barlop grO\vs to a finished width of ISH (a normal
countcrtop, suc h as the bartender's cou ntc rtop on the
ca bi nets below, is 25" wide).
liip the particleboard to 16'/, " wide and the n
crosscut it to length (one piece is longer so they can be
butted together). Attac h the strips to the top plates of
the knccwalls using panel adhes ive and countersu nk
deck sc rews (photo 12). Ivlake sure to al ign the
subbase strips carefull y. T hey s hould overhang the
!meewa ll s by roughl y 6" in front a nd 4" in back.
Once you have bot h subbase parts arranged
perfectly, drive 2" deck sc re\vs through the subbase
and into the bar wall (photo 13). Be very generous
he re. If you can't get the screw heads to seat
beneath the surface of the subbase, drill counter-
sunk pilot holes.
Cut the cherry plywood sheet into 16
1
h" wide
str ips, then cut mat ing miter joints at the ends
(photo J 4). Take care here: most hardwood pl ywood
has one side that is mllch nicer, so be Slife the cuts are
made so the correct faces ,viil be facing up when the
bartop is install ed. A circular saw \,vith a sharp
cutt ing blade and a straightedge gui de may be used to
make these cuts.
Attac h the top layer of cherry pl ywood to the
subbase v,Iit h panel adhesive and J 1/4" wa ll board screws
drive n li p through the subbase and into the underside
of the plywood layer (photo 15). Make sure the
mitered corner fits together correctly before applyi ng
any adhes ive or cutting the plywood strips to le ngth
(Tip: Wa it until the plywood layer is attached to the
subbase to cut the strip on t he free end to length. T hat
\vay, you ca n cut it and the subbase at the same time
and ensure that they are exactl y Aush ).
C heck to make sure the edges of the glued- up
bartop are smooth and fiat , a nd sand with a belt
sa nde r if they are out of al ignment or there is a lot
of glue squeeze-out (usc n ne grit sandpaper to hclp
prevent any splintering of the veneer layer). tVlount
a 'hl! to W' roundover bit in a router or router tabl e
and cut rou ndover pron les alo ng one edge of t he
J X 2 stock you dressed to use for bartop edging.
Attac h t he edging strips to the countertop with glue,
4d Rnis h nails driven into pilot holes, and plenty of
pipe clamps or bar clamps (photo 16). Make sure the
tops of t he edging boards are flush \,vit h or s li ghtly
higher t ha n t he plywood surface. If necessary, sand t he
edging unti l it is flush aft er you remove t he clamps. At
the open countertop end, extend the edging 3/./ past
the end of t he glued-up layers.
C ut a piece of 1 X 2 edgi ng to fit bet\,veen the
ends of the edging on t he open e nd of the countertop
and attach it wit h glue and Rnis h nails (photo 17).
Sand a ll wood surfaces . Apply mu lt iple coats of very
dura bl e, glossy polyuret hane varn is h to achieve a
protective bu ilt-up Rnis h. Also pa int t he underside of
the bartop blac k where it is visible. Bui ld the lift gate
Laminate the top layer of cherry plywood to the subbase
with panel adhesives and 1'/,' screws driven up through the
subbase.
Square-cut a piece of 1 x 2 edging to fit exactly between the
ends of the roundover edging, and nail and glue it into place.
sect ion of t he coun tertop as \vell and fi nish it the same
v,lay, except make it from t\VO layers of cherry plyvvood
and apply a clear finish to bot h faces.
INSTALL TRIM AND HARDWARE
Hip-cut a strip of cherry t hat's sl ightl y wider tha n
t he distance from the t il ed wall surface to 3/./ past
t he apron front s (a bout 8") and the n c ut it to fit
be t\A/ ee n t he fl oor a nd the undersi de of the bart op,
which shou ld overhang the end wall stud by 3// or
sli ght ly more (photo 18). Cu t another ident ica l
stri p. Attach one st rip to t he e nd of the kneewa ll
a nd attac h t he other to the wall on the oppos ite
s ide of the pass-through so t he t\vo strips a re
pe rfec tl y aligned.
Cut a roundover profile in one edge of the cherry edging
stock and then cut the parts to length and attach them to the
edges of the bartop with nails, glue and clamps.
Nail the cherry end panel to the wall end to conceal the
stud wall and the edges of the wallcoverings and trim.
C 1 1 l 1 ~ Bar 177
19
Attach a 1 x 2 stop block for the li ft gate to the wall directly
above the wall -mounted end panel.
20
Attach the piano hinge to the lift gate section of countertop
first, then attach the other leaf to the countertop.
21
Attach the lift gate to the countertop and test to make sure
it operates smoothly and correctly
C ut a strip of I x 2 cherry to 18" long a nd attach
it to the wa ll , centered over the 9tl-wide end pane l
(photo 19). This st rip wi ll function as the stop for
the lift gate sec tion of countertop. For cons istency,
roundovcr the top edges of the I x 2 so it looks like a
section of countcrtop.
Attach a pi ano hinge to the square-cut mating
edge of t he lift gate counte rtop section (photo 20).
The barre l of the piano hinge should be ori e nted
upwmd relative to the burtop surface. Attach the
ot he r leaf of t he piano hinge to the edge of t he main
counte rtop a nd tes t to see if it opens and closes easil y
and is level whe n open (photo 2 1).
Cut the che rry t ri m pieces to size to make the
ladder grids that decorate the aprons. Instal l the strips,
following the patterns shown on page 170 (photo 22).
Make sure the ends of the st rips a re tucked Aus h
against the inside fa ce of the che rry e nd pa nel.
INSTALL THE CABINETS
You can a ppoint the bartender's area of t he Club Bar
just about any way you wish because the bartop and
wa ll are freestanding, independent structures . \Ale
chose to install a coupl e of base ca binets, a dorm-s ize
refrigerator and an economical, low-maintenance
postform cOllntertop. Start by placing the corner
cabinet in the corner. Place the 24" ca binet to the
right of the corner cabinet . Flush up the face frames
( if they have them; the ones seen here are frameless )
and clamp the cabinets together wi th bar clamps.
Pre-drill , countersink, and sc rew the face frames or
cab inets sides together (see pages 62 to 77 for more
informati on on installing cOllntertops).
Add the decorative cherry strips in a ladder grid pattern,
using an air nailer. Start with the vertical strips, then cut the
horizontals to fit.
Install a countertop for the bart e nder (photo 23).
We chose <:111 inexpensive postform counte rtop \,vit h
a pre-clit mitered corner. If you've left one end of
t he bar open for a refrigerator, install a wa ll cleat to
s upport t he cou ntcrtop above t he refrigerator. Plug
in and s li de in you r refrigerator (photo 24), add a
coupl e of strands of holi day li ghts or any ot he r decor
you fancy.
PARTY TIME
Attach a countertop to the base
cabi nets to create an easy-to-clean
work surface for the bartender.
Slide in a refrigerator, keg-o-rator
or any appliance you choose.
Invite fri ends and family to gat her 'round. As they say in
Latin: Hes Ipso Loquitor: "The Thing Speaks For Itself.'
Or, as one of my friends might say: "Jt's beer-thirty. "
C l l l l ~ Bar 179
I .
SHELVING
PROJECTS
I"' ,
,

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I Shelving Basics
W
hen making shelves for your Aoor-to-ceil ing
shelves or util ity shelves, choose shelving
materials appropriate for the loads they mll s t support.
T hin glass shelves or particleboard can easil y support
li ght loads, sll ch as decorati ve glassware, but only
the sturdi est shelves can hold a large tel evision set or
heavy reference books without bend ing or breaking.
The strength of a shelf depends on its span- the
di stance between vertical ri sers. I n general, the span
should be no more than 36" long.
Bui lding your O\vn shelves from fi ni sh-grade
pl ywood edged with hardvmod st rips is a good choice
for most carpentry projects. Edged pl yv,'ood shelves
are strong, attrac ti ve, and much less expensive than
solid hardwood shelves.
Tools & Materials ~
Hi ght-angle drill guide
Drill with bi ts
IVi arlGng gauge
Router
Hammer
Nail set
Shelvi ng materi al
Scrap pegboard
Pin-s tyle shelf
supports
Metal shelf
standards
Shelf clips
Fi ni sh nail s
Attaeh hardwood edging or moldings to the front face of
plywood shelves, using wood glue and finish nails. Position
the edging so the top is slightly above the plywood surface,
then drill pilot holes and drive finish nails. Use a nail set to
countersink the nail heads. sand the edging so it is smooth
with the plywood surface before you finish the shelf For
greater strength, edge plywood shelves with 1 x 2 or 1 x 3
hardwood boards.
314" finish-grade
plywood edged
with 1 x 2
hardwood

Shelf peg

Cleats
Cleats are
often fastened
to shelves with
glue and dowels.
They are fixed to
verticals and the
wall with screws.
There are several
types of l-
brackets available
at home centers.
Choose the bracket
most suitable for
the weight load of
shelving.

Dado joint
Clip
Track
The tracks sit in
grooves in the vertical.
Shelf span is the distance between risers. A shorter span
strengthens a shel f.
I Modular Shelving
S
he lving is not a one-size-fits-all propos ition. You r
bee r ca n coll ection has enti re ly diffe rent shelving
needs from your Encyclopedi a Bri ttanica volumes,
whi ch in t urn have equ<J ll y differe nt demands from
your pape rback novels. The bea uty of making your
own shelving is that YOLI ca n eas ily cll stomi ze bot h
the size and the support mechanism to your needs.
One good way to customize shelving is to make
modular shelves wit h adjustable supports.
\tVh ile display shelves can be as narrow as a
couple of inches, typi cal storage shelves range
between I I " (bookcases) and 24" (closet or cabinet
depth). In this section you' l l learn how to make and
fini s h custom shelves to any widt h you choose.
Great for closets and utility storage, modular shelves are supported by adjustable pins or brackets so you can easily increase or
decrease the space between shelves to meet your storage needs.
Tips for Making Shelves
Rip-cut shelves to the exact width you need from sheet
stOCk. Quality plywood offers the most strength, but
for ease of cleaning you'll appreciate melamine-coated
particleboard.
Heat-activated veneer edge tape can be applied to
the edges of plywood or particleboard shelves for a more
finished appearance.
I How to Install Pin-style Supports for Adjustable Shelves
Mount a drill and %" bit in a right-angle drill guide, with the
drill-stop set for %" cutting depth. Align a pegboard scrap
along the inside face of each shelf standard, exactly flush with
the end, to use as a template. Drill two rows of parallel holes
in each riser, about 1 'h" from the edges of riser, using the
pegboard holes as a guide.
When the bookcase or built-in is completed, build
shelves that are W' shorter than the distance between
standards. To mount each shelf, insert a pair of W' pin-style
shelf supports in each riser
I How to Install Metal Standards for Adjustable Shelves
Mark two parallel dado grooves on the inside face of each
standard, using a marking gauge. Grooves should be at least 1"
from the edges.
After finishing the built-in, cut metal tracks to length to fit into
dadoes and attach them using nails or screws provided by the
manufacturer. Make sure slots in tracks are aligned properly so
shelves will be level.
Cut dadoes to depth and thickness of metal tracks, using
a router. Test-fit tracks to make sure they fit, then remove
them.
Make shelves so they are W' shorter than the distance
between standards, then insert shelf clips into the slots in the
metal tracks, and install shelves.
Modular SlleiFillg 185
I Installing Wire Shelving
W
ire shelving provides a quick and easy solution
to a cluttered closet. It lacks adjustability but is
nevertheless an inexpensive option to help orgclll ize
your closet. Basic wire shelving is attac hed to \va ll s
wit h support brackets. For e nti re wa ll le ngt hs we
recomme nd fi nding a syste m that also has return
wall brac kets (often called "s ide wa ll brackets") a nd
support clips. Bot h drywa ll shcl f clips and stud she lf
cl ips are ava il able at home centers. Support brackets
p laced at stud locations furt her stabilize the unit.
A sl ightly adva nced style of wire shelving that is
increasing in populari ty is track-mounted. It is available
in more styles tha n stclll dard whi te Vinyl-coated \A/ire
shelving. This type of \vi re shelving consists of a
hori zontal rail track that supports vertica l rail s, or the
I How to Install Wire Shelving
MEASURE WALLS AND MARK FOR
SHELVING PLACEMENT
Measure the le ngt h of t he back wa ll a nd t he side
wa ll s. l\ileasure up from the ground to the desired
height for t he top shelf and drm-v a leve l li ne on eac h
side wall. Note: The average miIdmU1H height above
ground is 48". Mark all stud locations along the back
wall and side wall s.
CUT WIRE SHELVING
Cut wire shelving to fi t between wa ll s, using a
hacksm-v. For shelving lengt hs greater than 8 ft.,
cut multi ple shelves and connect them with t he
manufacturer's connectors (whic h are ofte n sold at
home centers that carry \,vire shelving) .
ATTACH SIDE-WALL SUPPORTS
On a side \va ll , determine placement of the side-\vall
support according to manufacturer instructions. If
instructions are not provided by t he manuFact urer, fi t
the support in place on t he wire shelf and t hen, \,vhile
holding the shelf in place along t he level lines, mark
the screw hole placement s for t he side-wall supports
on t he side wa lls.
Predri ll holes at the marked side-wall support
locations. Hold a support in place and insert a toggle
bolt t hrough the support into t he \va ll. Repeat \vith
the ot her side-wall support. Note: If YOH can hit a stld,
vert ical may be di rectl y fastened to the wall. Shelf
brackets then snap into the verticals and shelves are set
on top of the shelf supports. These systems are viabl e
cl oset orga ni zers but ca nnot bear as much weight as
wood or melamine systems. The span should be kept to
36" or less and have adequate support- by hitt ing studs
where you can and using toggle bolts every 16" .
Tools & Materials ~
Measuri ng tape
Level
Hacksaw
ShelVing system and
hardvvare
Dri ll
Measure your closet. and draw a level li ne 48" up from the
floor.
Measure and mark the length of the shelving onto the wire.
Cut the wire shelving to length, using a hacksaw
Fit the side-wall bracket in place on the wire shelf and then,
holding the shelf in place along the level line on back wall, mark
the screw hole placements for the support on the side wall.
5
predrill holes for the wall clips to the size and depth
recommended by the clip manufacturer
a toggLe bolt is not necessary; i'nstclld, use a standard
J 'f, " drpvall screw.
Place the wire shelving into t he side-wa ll
supports. Simply lower t he shelvi ng into place until it
c li cks into the supports. Have a helper hold the she lf
so that the two side-wall brackets are not beari ng t he
load of the s helf. Check for leve l.
MARK WALL FOR SUPPORT CLIPS
'vVith wire shelving sti ll fit into the side-\val l supports,
make a mark approximatel y every 6
11
along the \val L
Space t he mar ks evenly be tween st uds.
Remove the wire shelving. Hold a clip at each
mark, according to manufacturer instructions, and
mark the pin-hole locati on. Note: There is an offset fr01ll
the level line on. the wall that must be taken i-l1tO account.
INSERT THE SUPPORT CLIPS IN THE WALL
Predrill holes at the support clip marks on the back
wed l for the pin-hole plClcement. Insert the vVC;l lI cl ips
Mark the clip locations centered on spaces in the wire.
(Inset) Mark actual Clip-pin hole placement according to
manufacturer instructions.
6
Lower the wire shelving into place. Snap the support clips
over the wire shelving.
by pressing the manufacturer pi n through the c li p
and into the wall. Use C;I ha rnrner to tap st ubborn pins
into the wal l. Lower \\f ire shelving into the side-v,rall
supports unt il they snap into place. Gently press the
back of the shel ving into the support clips.
ATTACH SUPPORT BRACKETS
Whe re possible, align support brackets at stud
locations. Ma rk screw holes on \vaJI. Deterrn ine where
the ot her brackets will go on the wa ll for C;I uni for rn
appear<:II1 ce. Space brackets approxirnately every 16
11
apart a long the bac k wa ll.
Attach wa ll brackets at stud marks, drilling screws
th rough t he bracket holes and into the anchors. For
brackets that are not fastened to studs, use toggJe bolts.
Fasten the ot her end of the brackets to the wire
shelving according to the rnanufac turer instructions.
II/Mal/il1g Wire SlleiFil1g 187
I Formal Bookcase
F
ew furnishings add prestige to a space like a formal
Aoor-to-ceiling bookcase. Typica ll y built from clear
hardvvood, the classicall y-designed bookcase deli vers
a reRned, Old World fee l. The bookcase shown here is
made from red oak plywood and red oak I x stock and
mol di ngs flni shed with a high gloss urethane. V\1hat's
also nice about thi s pi ece is that it incorporates the
wall be hi nd it to balance all that clear hardwood wit h
a spl as h of color and depth. Th is is a fixed-shelf design
that enabl es you to bu ild shelves anywhere you like
to matc h your needs. And, beca use the shelf bays me
built in a modular fashion, you can design it to any
dimensions you wish.
The fo rmal bookcase shown he re is 8 ft . long, 8 ft.
hi gh and install ed on a J 2-ft. long wal l. Because it's
centered in the space, the moldings and sides return
to the wall , creating niches on the left and right that
arc great for decoration. However, thi s bookcase can
be built wa ll -to-wall if desired . It's a Aexi bl e des ign.
Finall y, the exact same style shelf ca n be built to take
paint. I nstead of using red oak, though, poplar is a
great choice for a pai nted finish.
Tools
Mi ter saw
Table saw
Circular saw
Router
Drill/driver
Level
Stud nnder
Pull saw
Flat bar
Step ladder or
work platform
Air nailer
Combin<Jtion square
Drywall or
deck screws
Fini sh nails
Glue
Fini shing materi als
Materials
(3) 3/, x 4 x 8 red oak pl ywood
(16) I x 2 X 96 red oak plywood
(4) I X 6 X 96 red oak plywood
Cutting List
Part No. Desc. Size
A 2 Upright (outerl '!. x 11 Y, x 96"
B 2 Upright (innerl 3/. x 11 1/1 X 94W'
C 14 Shelf 3!. X 11'1, x 31
D 11 Shelf nosing J/. x l V2 x3l"
E 4 Upright bocker 3;' x SYl X 96"
F 1 Fascia %X9 Y1 X96"
G 4 Fluted molding % x 3% x 78
1
12
( I ) I x lO x 96 red oak plywood (4) Plinth Blocks
(4) % X 3% X 84 oak pl)'vood I I lineal ft. red oak crown molding
(4) Rosettes (3) 2 X 2 X 96 pine
Red ook plywood H 4 Rosette % x 4 x 4" Red ook molding
Red ook plywood 4 Plinth block % x 4 x 4" Red ook molding
Red ook plywood J 11 Shelf cleot (woll) %xl Vl x31" Red ook
Red oak 1 x 2 K 22 Shelf cleot (sidel % x 1111 x 10
3
// Red ook
Red oak 1 x 6 L 3 Crown molding 112 x 3
3
1i6" X cut to fit Red ook
Red ook 1 x 10 M Ceiling cleot (longl J1/zx J
1
hx94
1
h 2 x 2
Red oak molding N Ceiling cleot (short) ]1h x 11/1 x 8
1
/:t 2 x 2
Formal Bookcase 189
I How to Build a Formal Bookcase
Cut through the base molding at the edges of the project
area and remove it so the bookcase can fit tightly up against
the wal l.
Carefully mark out the plumb lines for the outside edges
of the uprights and continue the mark up onto the ceil ing.
3
use a spacer as a gauge for marking the position of the front
edge of the 2 x 2 nailing frame that is attached to the ceiling.
LAY OUT THE PROJECT ON YOUR WALL
T hi s bookcase is des igned to be stick-bu ilt at your
install ation site. The best place to begin is by drawing
layout lines on t he wa ll. T he most important lines
mark the locat ions of the fouf upri ghts, \vhi ch need
to be vert ical a nd para ll el, and for the shelf cleats that
must be horizontal and parallel. Start by locating the
centerli ne for the bookcase installat ion and marking
it on the base board and on the lVa ll. Measure out 4-ft.
on eac h side of the ce nterline and make mar ks for the
outside edges of the bookcase. These lines represent
the outer faces of the left and ri ght uprights. Us ing
a pull saw (if you have one), cut and remove the
baseboard between the left and ri ght marks. Make
your cuts as square as poss ibl e (photo I ).
Measure and make a mark I 5
3
k" on each side of
the centerline, dividing the project area into three equal
bays. On eac h s ide of al l three verti cal lines, mark out
%" to establi sh the locat ions of the 3/./'- thi ck upri ghts.
IVleas uri ng up from the Aoor, mark hori zontal shelf
cl eat locations on the wa ll s at the back of each bay.
The c leats should stop at the upright locations so the
3/.t" -thick uprights can fit snugly in betwee n the cleat
ends. [n the drawing, there is one bottom s hel f, set
6'1z" off the Aoor in al l three bays. The left and right
bays have shelves 24", 48", and 72" up from the Aoor.
T he center bay has a Single center she lf set at 36" off
the top of t he bottom shelf ledger and a top shelf at
7211 (see Diagmm, page 189). Usi ng a 4-ft. level, mark
hori zontal reference lines for the shelf cl eats in all three
bays. Draw a small "X'. below each line as a reminder of
whi ch side of the line to faste n the c leat. Then, usc the
4-ft. level to extend the outlines for the uprights a ll the
way up from the Aoar to the ceiling (photo 2). T hese
sets of paralle l lines should be %" apart and plumb.
At the ceiling, layout the locat ion for the 2 x 2
frame t hat creates na iling s urfaces for the oute r
upri ghts and the 1 x 6 upri ght backers that are
centered on the front edges of the uprights. The 2 x 2
frame should span from the insi de faces of the outer
upri ghts and exte nd J J 'Iz " out from the wa ll (photo 3).
Tip ~
Make an 11 v,' wide spacer to use as a marking gauge.
4
Attach the 2 x 2 nailing frame to the ceiling at the layout
lines, making sure to catch a ceiling joist where possible and
using appropriate anchors in spots where no joist is present.
If you're insta lling undcrcabinet lights such as
puck lights, locate thc cc ntc r of cach bay on thc
ceiling and mark them for li ghts. Get a qualified
e lectrician to install the wiring, fixtures, a nd svdtc hes.
If you're doing the \\fork yo urself, follow local buil di ng
codes. Pull the "vire through the dryv.'all or plaster and
pi gta il (curl up) for fixture installation later.
INSTALL THE NAILING FRAME
For case of instal lat ion, assemble the 2 X 2 nailing
frame on the ground. Usc 2
1
12 " pne umatic finish
nai ls or wa ll board screws to join the 2 x 2 frame
components. Test to make sure the assembly is
sq uare. Attach the fra me to the ceiling by screwing
up through the members at ceiling joist locations (usc
an elcctronic stud findcr to idcntify thcsc). Attach the
frame to the wa ll 's top plate at the wa illcei lingjoint
(photo 4). If the ceiling joists are parallel to the wa ll,
5
Attach all of the shelf cleats to the wall, making sure to
preserve an even 'J." gap between cleat ends to make room for
the inner uprights.
you may need to usc toggle bolts or othe r wall anchors
to secure the frame a long the front edge.
ATTACH THE SHELF CLEATS TO THE WALL
Whi le plenty of f<:lsteners, including tr im-head wood
screv,ls or 8d n<:lils, may be dependabl y used to connect
the I X 2 red oak shelf cleats to the wall s at st ud
locations, a pneumatic or cordless finish nai ler loaded
wit h 2" na ils is ideal for the task. It e liminates the need
to pre-drill and counte rsink fasteners, as you would
when driving sc rews or hand-nai ling into hardwood. A
pneumatic nailer also di spenses fasteners quickly and
accurately, malzjng it much easier \vhen you' re worlzj ng
alone. C ut a nd insta ll the cleats at the layout li nes. A
few dabs of constr uction <:Idhesive appl ied to t he wa ll
behind the cleats will add even more strength to the
connection. Fasten the cleat s so the upright ret urns
can be insta ll ed around them (photo 5).
Formal Rookcase 191
INSTALL THE UPRIGHTS
Cut the outer upri ghts ( 1 I lh" wide) to full room
height in length. Rest the bottoms on the fl oor and
nai l the top ends to the ends of the 2 x 2 nailing
frame (photo 6). Also drive Sd finish nails through the
uprights and into the ends of the shelf cleats in the
outer bays (drill pilot holes first ).
Rout a roundover, bead or chamfer onto each edge
of the upright backer if desired (photo 7). Cut t he
inner uprights ( I I 'h" wide ) to length. They should be
11// shorte r than the outer uprights because they butt
up against the underside of the 2 x 2 nai ling frame
on the ceiling. Position the inner uprights between
the ends of the s he lf cleats that are attached to the
wull in eClch bay. At the cei ling, lise a fmming sq uare
to make sure the inner uprights arc perpendicular to
6
Nail the outer uprights to the ends of the nailing frame
attached to the ceiling.
Attach the upright backers to the front edges of the inner
uprights with pneumatic or hand-driven finish nails.
the \vall and then position a I x 6 upright backer over
the upright edge. Center the backer on the upri ght
edge and nail it to the 2 x 2 nailing frame. Double-
c heck that the upright is perpendicular to the wa ll by
measuring the bays CIt t he \,vall and at the front of the
upright and making sure the measurements are the
same. Then drill pilot holes and dri ve Sd finish nai ls
(or pneumatic nai ls) through the backer and into t he
edge of t he upright at 12" interva ls (photo 8). Insta ll
bot h inner uprights.
INSTALL THE SHELVES
The shelves and shelf cleats help stabil ize the
st ructure, so install them next . Start by na iling a
shelf to the 2 x 2 cei ling frame at the top of each
bay (photo 9).
Routing a bead, round over, or chamfer adds nice detail and
shadow lines to the upright backers.
9
Attach a shelf board at the top of each bay to conceal the
framework attached to the ceiling.
10
Attach the shelf cleats to the uprights, being careful to drive
fasteners straight to prevent blow-outs in the upright returns.
12
Conceal the gap between the top of the bookcase and
ceiling with crown molding or sprung cove molding. Installing
crown molding can get complicated- consult a trim carpentry
book if you are unsure how to work with crown molding.
Attac h the s hort she lf c lea ts to t he s ides of the
upri ghts so each shelf is supported on three sides
(photo 10). Use a leve l to make sure t he cleats are
level and attach the m \vi th 4d fini sh na il s or 1%,1 brads
and adhesive.
C ut the rema ining she lves to lengt h and set them
on t he cl eats. Cut the I X 2 shel f nosing and attac h it
to the front edges of the exposed shel ves, making sure
the s he lves are flush with the top edge of t he nos ing
(photo II ). Use 4d fini sh nail s dri ven through pil ot
holes or pneumati c Ilni sh nails to Cl ttach the nosing.
ATTACH THE TRIM
C ut the I x 10 red oak fascia board the full width of
the bookcase and na il it to t he top so t he ends are Aush
Edge the red oak shelves with 1 x 2 red oak nosing that's
bonded to the shelves with glue and finish nails.
Attach the plinth blocks, rosettes and fluted case moldings
to compete the trimwork installation.
with the oute r faces of the outer upri ghts. Make sure
the fasci <:t board is level before attac hing it with nai ls
driven into the tops of the upri ght backers. Once the
fasc ia board is in place, cut , fit and attach the crown
molding and molding retu rn at the top (photo 12).
Insta ll the plinth bl ocks at the bottom of each
upri ght backer, rest ing on the Aoor and ce ntered side
to side. The n, attach the rosettes at the top of eac h
upright backer, centered si de to si de. Measure from
the bottom of t he rosette to the top of the plinth
bl ock and cut flut ed Gise molding to fit. Install with
ad hesive and nail s (photo 13). Fill nail holes, sand
and appl y fini sh . If the insta ll ation room has base s hoe
moldings, yo u may wan t: to add them to you r bookcase
for a cons istent look.
Formal Rookcase 193
I Utility Shelves
Y
OU ca n bui ld adjustable utility shelves in a si ngl e
afte rnoon using 2 x 45 and pl ai n 3/41\ plywood.
Perfec t for lise in a garage Of basement, utility shelves
can be modiAed by adding side panels and a face
frame to create a fini shed look suitabl e for a fami ly
room or recreation area.
The q ui ck-and-easy she lf project shown on the
following pages creates two colu mns of she lves wit h
a total wi dth of 68
11
You can enl arge the projec t
eaS il y by adding more 2 X 4 ri se rs and pl ywood
shelves. Do not increase the indi vidua l shelf widths
to more t han 36". The sole plates for the utility
she lves are install ed perpendi cular to the wall to
improve access to the space under the bottom
she lves .
Tools
Pencil
T<:Ipe measure
Level
Framing square
Drill/dri ver
D I
I
Plumb bob
Powder-actuated nai ler
Clamps
Router \vith 3// st raight bit
Circular sa,,\,
Stepladder
1
D I
I
Materials
( 15) 2 x4x8 pine
(2) 3/, X 4 x 8 plywood
\t\1ood glue
Shims
~
Drywall or deck screws (21// , 3")
Fi ni shi ng materials
D
~
~ ~
L&l L&l
~ ~
(
Cutting List
A Top plotes 68" 2 x 4s
B 3 Sole plotes 24" 2 x 4s
C 8 Shelf risers 93" 2 x 4s
D 4 End risers 93" 2 x 4s
E 12 Shelves 30Y. x 24" 'I." plywood
Utility She/pes 195
I How to Build utility Shelves
Mark the location of top plates
on ceiling. One plate should be flush
against wall, and the other should be
parallel to first plate, with the front edge
24" from the wall. Cut 2 x 4 top plates to
full length of utility shelves, then attach
to ceiling joists or blocking, using 3"
screws.
2
Mark pOints directly beneath outside
corners of the top plates to find outer
sole plate locations, using a plumb
bob as a guide (topl . Mark sole plate
locations by drawing lines perpendicular
to the wall connecting each pair of
points (bottom).
Prepare the shelf risers by cutting ,,"-wide, ~ " ' - d e e p dadoes with a router. Cut
dadoes every 4" along the inside face of each 2 x 4 riser, with the top and bottom
dadoes cut about 12" from the ends of the 2 x 4. Tip: Gang-cut the risers by laying
them flat and clamping them together, then attaching an edge guide (page 41) to align
the dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes with the router, gradually extending
the bit depth until dadoes are ~ .. ' deep.
Cut outer 2 x 4 sole plates and position
them perpendicular to the wall, just
inside the outlines. Shim plates to level
if needed, then attach to floor with a
powder-actuated nailer or 3" screws.
Attach a center sole plate midway
between the outer sole plates.
Trim the shelf risers to uniform length
before unclamping them. Use a circular
saw and a straightedge guide.
Build two center shelf supports by
positioning pairs of shelf risers
back and joining them with wood glue
and 2'/2" screws.
9
Build four end shelf supports by
positioning the back of a dadoed shelf
riser against a 2 x 4 of the same length,
then Joining the 2 x 4 and the riser with
glue and 2'." screws.
10
Position an end shelf support
at each corner of the shelving unit,
between top and sole plates. Attach the
supports by driving 3" screws
style into the top plate and sole plates.
Position a center shelf support (both faces dadoed) at
each end of the center sole plate, then anchor shelf supports
to the sole plate using 3" screws driven Use a
framing square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular
to the top plates, then anchor to top plates.
Measure the distance between the facing dado grooves
and subtract '/". Cut the plywood shelves to fit and slide the
shelves into the grooves.
Uti lit), She/Jles 197
I Cube Shelves
T
his shelving project will yie ld some lovely and
distinctive display shelves, but building them
is as muc h a slzj ll -building advent ure for learni ng
new techni ques as it is a carpentry project. If
you' re chomping at t he bit to give you r nC\A,I s liding
compound mi ter saw a workollt, this project "" ill be
vcry sati sfying for you . Yet these cube-s haped s hel ves
arc qui te attract ive and functiona l in their own right,
constructed as they are wit h a combi nation of basic
boards, simpl e hardware, and imagination.
YOLI can make the cube-shaped display shelves
from solid sawn \\food or sheet goods, depending on
the look you' re after, what you'd like to di splay, and
your decor. You can make them different sizes,
squares or rec tangles, deep or shall ow. You can eve n
take one of t hose squares and flip it on point to make
a diamond. Versatility and fun is the na me of t he
game here, along with careful assembl y. Inc luded
in the assembly instructi ons are a few tips for making
square corners so you r handcrafted box is perfectl y
mac hined.
The asse mbl y and connection detail s here are
intended for small shelves and di splaying light ite ms,
but fi nal des ign is up to you. The she lf unit shown
here is a 12" sq uare made from c herry. You can use
ot he r species for diffe rent looks, or you can even mix
and match species, paint some and leave others clear,
or stain t hem to bring out the gra in in the wood. Using
a brad na il er and glue, or fi nish screv,ls and gl ue, will
provide solid mec hanica l connect ions fo r the corners.
Trying to hand-na il thi s project is like ly to result in
frustrat ion. Other attachment choices t hat work
well for thi s project include a spline joint or using a
plate joiner and biscuits . These tend to be more in
the domain of the advanced woodworker due to the
precision and tools required, however.
Tools
Cordl ess drill/dri ver
Circular savv
Stn:ti ghtedge
Sander
'h"wide wood chi sel
Tabl e saw
B
A
BACK SIDE
Materials
Scrap wood for jig
I x 8 hardwood (5 ft ., or so)
Keyhole pi cture hangers
Fasteners
,
,
Cutting List
A 4 (ubeside 'I. x IY, x 12" Hardwood
ClIhe She/pes 199
I How to Build Cube Shelves
Build this simple jig to assist you in making perfectly square
miter jOints.
MAKE A FOOLPROOF ASSEMBLY JIG
For making square joints, do yoursel f a favor and
build a very si mple asse mbl y jig. The one s hown
here is easy to rnake frorn scrap stoc k. Al l you need
to do is fctsten four pieces of gil- long scrap stock
(poplar is good because it's very strai ght and easy to
\<\Iark with) to a Aat pi ece of scrap pl yv.rood or M DF
to form two L's that meet at a ri ght angle. Before
cutting your workpicccs, make su re your miter saw is
set up for a perfect perpendi cu lar cut. Then, cut t he
four pi eces and lay two of them nat on the plywood
(about a 12" square will work) so they butt together
and form a 90 joi nt. Fas te n the two boa rds to the
plywood, taking care to m<Ji nta in an exact 90joint.
Pre-drill the boards so they don't move \.vhil e you
screw them down. AFter the flat pi eces are install ed,
install the verti cal pi eces in a simil ar fash ion,
fas tening them to the edges of the first workpieces
(photo I ). Coat the outer faces of the j ig wi th wax
or varni sh to prevent glued workpieces from st icking
to it.
If You're Using a Power Miter Saw ... ~
The easiest way to rnake
the miter cuts in stock that's
wider than 3" or 4" is to use
a large capacity power miter
saw or a radial arm saw. If
you have a large capacity
power miter saw, such as a
10" compound sliding miter
saw, you need to make sure
your miter saw is tuned
to cut precise 45
0
miters.
You'll also need a stop for
your miter saw so you don't
have to measure each piece
individually. Because it's vi tal
that each of the workpieces
be exactly the sarne (even the
smallest difference in the cuts
will show up in the miters)'
the stop is key for making
accurate cuts.
Accuracy is important in this project-especially for the tools. Double check your
saw's setting before you begin cutting and adjust as necessary If you're using a 10"
saw, you'll be cutting on the bevel, so be sure to check this adjustment.
CUT THE SHELF PARTS
You can use a sl iding miter saw or radia l ar m S3\>V to
make the bevel cuts t hat form t he miters (see "If You're
Using a Power Miter Saw, .. ", page 200). But jf you
don'r own a saw \,vith e nough c<:Ipac ity to make a 45
bevel cut in a 7
I
h"-wide bomd, YOLI can li se an ordinary
c ircular smv. First, ca refully cut the vwrkpieces so
they're a coupl e of inc hes longer than the fi nished
length ( 12" is the finis hed length we usc here). Then,
cl amp the four boards toget he r edge- to-edge usi ng
a bar c lamp or pi pe cl amp. Leave pl enty of room at
one end (the ends of the boa rds shoul d be Aush). Set
your c ircular $3\'V to Clit a 45 bevel. Then, clamp a
strai ghtedge guide in place so the di stance from the
uncl amped ends is slightl y more t han the offset of the
saw foot. Cut a ll four boards at once (photo 2).
11elocate the clamp near the bevel-cut e nds,
reposition the straightedge gUide and bevel-c ut the
other ends. Re-orient the workpi ece so the miters will
be fac ing in the correct directions. iV1ake Slire the bevels
both slope inward, and make the second cut so the
outside face of each wor kpiece is 12" long (photo 3).
Clamp a straightedge guide to the
ganged work pieces and make a 45
0
bevel
cut near one end.
Re-orient the workpieces so the bevels
wi ll not be parall el and gang them together
again. Bevel-cut the other ends.
ClIiJe She/Jles 201
ASSEMBLE THE SHELF
Set two of the bevel-c ut workpi cccs up in the
assembly jig. Dry- fit the corne r to see that it fits and
the joint is tight. If it's not , something is off and an
adj ustment is required.
Apply gl ue to both ends a nd re-crea te the joint.
Reinforce v,lith fi ni sh nails dri ven wi t h a pneumat ic
brad nail er (photo 4). Fasten the other two workpi eces
in the same fas hion, and then attac h the two L-shapes
to form the fi nis hed square (photo 5). Ma ke sure you
wipe away a ll glue squeeze-out wit h a da mp clot h or
sponge a nd al low it to dry.
INSTALL HANGING HARDWARE
The cube-s hape boxes look most impress ive if they are
mounted on the wa ll with no visible mea ns of support.
A good method for accompl ishing this is to ha ng t hem
After testing the fit. glue the first miter JOint together and
reinforce it with an air nailer (if you must hand-nail. carefully
drill pilots holes first) . Use the assembly jig to square up the
workpieces.
using the jig. assemble both LS with glue and fasteners.
v,lit h keyhole-style picture frame hangers that fit in to
recessed cuts in t he back edges of the box. To hang
the box with thi s ha rdware, posi ti on the box on the
worksurface with the back edges up. Then, drill a 1/4
11
-
deep by '/I6"-dia. hole t hat's 3" from eac h e nd along the
edge you want to be on top. Chisel out a '/sll-deep, 112 "-
\,vide x %"- Iong rnort ise t hat's centered over eac h hole
and stops just shy of t he edges of the board (photo 6).
Place the hanger in the slot over the pre-drilled
hole and rnark t he screw holes \vit h a pencil. Pre-
dril l the hanger holes and install the hangers, using a
screwdri ve r to prevent overdriving (photo 7).
FINISH & HANG THE SHELF
Apply yo ur finis h of choice a nd all O\>I/ it to dry. Treati ng
all faces of the she lf \vill help preve nt environ rnental
forces (like hurnidity a nd tern perat ure chunge) frorn
cut a mortise for the body of the hanger hardware to rest
in. Be sure not to cut through to the edge of the shelf so the
connection will be invisible once the box is mounted.
opening the joi nts. Set the cube she lf leve l on the
wa ll and mark the locat ions for the screV,is that will Ilt
into the keyho le pi cture hangers. Drill guide holes for
plasti c \.va ll anchors at the hanger locations and drive
round-head wood screws so they leave a gap of about
'/8" between t he screw head and the wal l. Slip the box
over the screv" heads and tug dovmwmd to secure it
(photo 8).
Stepback box variation ~
Making cube-shaped shelves can take you further
than single layer display shelves, enabling you to add
layers and depth to your display boxes and the items
in them. In other words, some photos look great in a
plain frame while others call out for more detail. The
good news is that adding detail to the shelf doesn't
require a major re-tool ing of your set-up. You can
still use all kinds of materials, including MDF (shown
here), though sizing down to smaller stock for smaller
shelves looks more proportional. And, because this
version is layered, you can mix and match species to
create an eye-catching color contrast.
Since there are 16 pieces in this system (not four)
as in the project box- the easiest and fastest way
to make accurate cuts is to cut and shape the stock
for both the inner cube and outer cube, and then
laminate them together with glue so the front edges
are oriented correctly and the back edges are flush.
Then, simply cut the workpieces, bevel the ends and
assemble the cube as shown in the main sequence.
This 16-piece variation of the cube shelf has
the added feature of shadow lines created by the
stepped back sides.
Pre-drill the hanger holes and install the hanger hardware
using a screwdriver or a drill/driver and a light touch.
Drive roundhead screws into the wall, using sleeves or
anchors as needed. Then hang the keyhole hanger hardware
mounted to the back of the shelf onto the screwheads.
Cube She/Jles 203
I Closet Shelves
T
hi s si mpl e proj ect wi llmore than double the
storage potential in a sma ll linen or pantry c loset.
It is perfect for li ght loads in cl osets \vith a span of
36" or less. The I x 3 furring strips are inexpensive
and easy to insta ll , and the s helving seen from the
out side of t he door lends a profess ional tOll c h. If you
don't have a lot of time, but would li ke to try you r
hand a t a n install ation to maximi ze )' our storaoe
0'
sta rt here.
Tools & Materials ~
Stud fi nde r
Tape meas ure
Level
Screwdriver
Ji g saw
Nail gun
6d and 8d finish nai ls
3/4"-thick shelving
stoc k (witho ut
predrilled holes)
X 3 pine
\;Vood screws
L-brackcts (optional )
Finish materia ls
I How to Install Closet Shelves
Measure from the floor lip J 5" and mark a level line.
Repeat level l ines every 12" Lip from ori ginal line
(repeat four t i mes f or an 80"- t all closet) (phot o I ) .
Cut I x 3 stri ps to fit along the back side of the
wall , flu sh into eac h corner. Cut I x 3 strips to Ilt
alo ng \va ll s, flush aga inst the bac k wa ll 1 x 3 strips
and 4" short of the i nside wal l (approximately 6" in
f rom closet door t rack) . Al ign the tops of I x 3 stri ps
wit h level lines on \,va ll and Fasten to the \,va ll , hitt ing
studs where possi bl e (photo 2). Note: If you cannot
hit a stud, use a self-driving 1uetal anchor with machine
screws every 10",
Cut melami ne shel vi ng stoc k (wit hout pre- dril led
holes) to fit along the back side wal l (measure wal l and
subtract 4"). Rest shel ves on top of the I x 3 st ri ps
(photo 3) .
2
Fasten 1 x 3 strips to back side wall, flush into each
corner, and fasten 1 x 3 strips along the side wall (as shown,
ending approximately 6" in from door track). Align the tops of
the 1 x 3 stri ps with level li nes on wall and fasten to wall with
a nail gun at studs. Note: If you cannot hi t a stud, use a sel f-
driving metal anchor with machine screw every 10".
Measure from the floor up 15" and mark a level line. Repeat
level li nes every 12" up from original line (repeat four times for
an 80"-tall closet).
3
Cut melamine-coated shelving stock (without predrilled
holes) to fit along back side wall (measure wall and
subtract 4"). Rest shelves on top of 1 x 3 strips.
Closet She/Jles 205
I Joist Shelving
I
f yo u think you have completely run out of
storage space, but still have an unfini s hed ceiling
somewhere in the house or garage, think agai n. Thi s
handy little shelf is built to At and fold lip directl y
be tween unfi nis hed joists, storing utility it ems until
you need them. It is a good place for tools, laundry
room supplies, smal ler sporting goods, or other items
206 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BU1LT, l NS
YOLI don't li se every day. If you pl an on storing liquids
on the shelf, make su re t he lids are closed t igh tl y
before folding li p t he shelf. The des ign of the shelf
is easy to change to m<Jke it stationary or deeper.
\;Vith a mi nimum of effort and materi als, YOLI can
build a si mpl e storage soluti on for utility ite ms.
Turn joist cavities into
efficient storage cabinets
with these inexpensive,
easy,to,build folding shelves.
E
A
--
Tools Materials
Drill with bits (1 ) I x 6" x 10 ft. pine
'hll spade bit (J) I x 4" x 6 ft. pine
Circular saw ( I) ' I , " ~ X 4 X 4 ft. pine plywood
Hatchet set (2) 'h"-dia. X 3" carriage bolts
Combination square (2) '/," lock was hers
C-clamps (4) '/, " nat was hers
Level (2) '/," hex nuts
T<Jpe measure ( I) 3/. "-t hi ck plywood scrap
Wood screws (#6 X 1'/," )
\t\1ood glue
(2) I / ~ x 2" lag sc re\'vs
Cutting List
Key Part
A (21 Side
B (I) Top
C (I) Bottom
D (I) Middle shelf
E (I) Botk
F (21 Shelf roil
'Cut to fit
1
Dimension
'/4 x SVl X 30W pine
0/4 X SVl X 14*" pine
0/4 x 51/2 X 14*" pine
% x SVl X 121/1*" pine
'/' x 14' x 32" pine plywood
% x 2V2 X 12111*" pine
Joist
line
Joist SlwiFillg 207
I How to Make Joist Shelving
Before YOLI begin clitting the pieces for the frame of
the joist she lving, measure the space betwee n the
joists whe re YOLI plan to install the unit. Standard
construction should leave a 14
1
1z 1! space between
ceiling joists. Ho\VCVCf, depending on how old the
wood is and hmv your house has settled, the space
between your joists could be anyvvhere from 12!1 to
16" . Make SlIre YOLI know those dimensions so YOLI can
plan the rest of the box construction accord ingly.
MAKE THE BOX
Measure and eut the sides (A), top (B), bottom
(C), and middl e shelf ( D) of t he box frame to size
from J x 6 pine lumber and sand the edges smooth.
Position the sides, top, and bottom panels with their
back edges on the work surFace, \.vith the perimeter of
the box Rush at the outer edges.
Dril l eounterbored pilot holes th rough the bottom
and top panels into the si de panels and assemble the
frame, usi ng glue and wood screws driven through the
ends and into the sides (photo I ).
Using a combination square as a guide, mark a
reference line across the interior face of each side
panel, 15'1)' up from the top of the bottom panel.
These lines represent the bottom of the shelf.
Slide the middl e she lf into pos iti on so the
bottom edge is Rush with the reference lines. Drill
counterbored pilot holes through the sides and into
the shelf. Attach the shelf using gl ue and Sc re\vs.
Cut the shelf ra il s (F) to the proper le ngth and
sand the edges smooth. rVl ark reference lines for the
shelf ra il s 6" up from t he top of the bottom panel and
6" up from t he top of the middl e shelf.
Assemble the frame of the box, using
glue and 1 'k" wood screws.
Clamp the shelf in place between the
joists and drill holes for the carriage
bolts.
Insert a carriage bolt through the
shelf wall s and joists, then add a
washer, lock washer, and hex nut.
Attach the rail s so their top edges are Aush with
the reference lines and t he front surface of the ra il
i s flush with the sides. Drill counterbored pilot hol es
through t he rails and into t he si des and attach them,
using glue and wood sc rews . Cut the bac k panel (E) to
size and att ach it to the back edges of the box frame,
using glue and \\lood sc rews.
DRILL HOLES THROUGH THE JOISTS
Hcfer to the top inset of the di agram on page 207 for
specifi c instructions on the location of the swinging
assembl y holes.
Clamp the unit into position between t he
joists so it i s level and so the top of t he shelf is
approximately 3" from the subAoor above. When t he
shel f is in pos iti on and clamped ti ghtl y, drill a Ih" hole
on ei ther side of the shelf, through the joists and into
the shelf (photo 2).
Variation ~
If you want a deeper shelf (photo 5), use the same
construction method, but alter the dimensions. Install this
larger box by driving four lag screws through the jOists.
The shelf will be stationary, but it will still utilize space near
the ceiling. See the bottom inset diagram on page 207.
Screw plywood cleats into position to act as latches for
the shel f.
INSTALL THE SWINGING ASSEMBLY
Slide the carri age bolts through t he hol es from t he
i nterior of the shelf, and thread a fl at washer, lock
\\lasher, and nut onto the carri age bolt unti l they are
snug, using a rat chet set if necessa ry (photo 3). Do not
overt ighten t he assembly or the shelf \,vill not rotate.
Test the shelf by rotating it up into the cei ling,
making sure it glides easil y between the joist s. vVith
a penci l, make a reference mark on both joists,
approxi mately 2" in from the bottom edge of t he shelf
in the up position .
INSTALL THE CLEATS
Cut t he sc rClp pi ece of 1/.,, " plyvvood into tv.'O pieces
approxi mately 1/." x I lh X 4". Use two 1/." X 2" lag sc rews
to attach the sc rap pi eces of pl yv.
1
00d to the bott om
edges of the joists so that t he edges are Aus h wit h the
inside edges of the joi sts (photo 4) . T he scrap pieces
should be tight but st ill easy to rot at e. Hot ate cleats to
hol d t he shelf in its cl osed posit ion.
The shelf must be clamped tightly in place; otherwise,
it may fall during installation. Do not place weight on
the shelf until it is completely installed, or you could
risk injury.
TO build a deeper, stationary shelf, buil d the unit with wider
lumber, and drive two 'k x 2" lag bolts through each side of the
shelf and into the adjoining Joists.
Joist Sl leiFillg 209
I Bin & Shelving Unit
T
his versat il e wa ll accessory offers cl ever storage
space for rolled hand towels, soaps, and ot her small
items. The uni t can be custom-des igned to fi t the
ava il able wa ll space and depth for any room. In areas
with less wall space, a shorter unit may be buil t by
making on ly two V-sections . Or, add more V-sections
for a larger wa ll space. For even more versa ti lity, the
V-sections may be mounted in stair-s tep fas hi on.
store smaller items in the bins of this shelving unit, reducing clutter on your countertop or vanity.
Tools
Mi ter saw
Jig saw
Clamps
Drill wit h bits
118 adjustable counterbore bit
Hamme r
Small hand saw
Stud
D
Materials
J x 6" x 4 ft. pine
J x 8" x 4 ft. pine
dO\.vei
Cotton s\vabs
,
i ,
e
e-
Wallboard sc rews (/18 x I 'Is")
Wood glue
Finis hing materials
Sandpaper
D
Cutting List
Key Part Dimension
A (I) Shelf panel x SV1 x 8W' lumber
B (5) Shelf panel V. x SV1 X 7W' lumbe r
C (I) Bocker board . x IV<' x 3 ft. lumber
D II 5) Dowel pieces %"-dio x Ill" dowel
Bill & SlleilliJ1g UJ1il 211
I How to Make a Bin & Shelving Unit
CUT SHElF PANELS
& ASSEMBLE A V-SECTION
Cut the longer s helf panel (A) and all five additiona l
shelf panels (8) to size using a miter saw. Sand a ny
rough edges smooth using ISO-grit sa ndpape r.
Position the panels on the table as they will be
assembled, checking the fit and layout of each panel.
Make sure the longer she lf panel (A) is farthest to the
right of the assembly.
C lamp the longer shelf panel (A) to one of the
regular shelf panels (8 ) at a right a ngl e so that the
edges are Aush against the works urfaee (photo I ).
Adj ust a #8 counterbore bit to a total depth of 2".
Dri ll th ree equally spaced counterbored pilot hol es
through the longer shelf, 3/.," from the 100,ver edge. Each
hole should have a 1// cOllnterbore. Drive 1%" wallboard
screws into each hole of the clamped assembly.
ATTACH THE REMAINING SHELF PANELS
Attac h each remaini ng shelf panel at a right <1ngle,
repeat ing the construction methods described in the
first step. Clamp eac h new shel f to the workpi ece so
that the new shelf is flush against the worksurfacc,
with the side edges of eac h new panel Rush \,vith the
side edges of the workpiece (photo 2).
Clamp shelf A to shelf B and drill three equall y spaced
counterbored pilot holes through shelf A into shelf B.
PREPARE THE BACKER BOARD
Lay the completed shelf assembl y on the backer
board, so that the top point of each V-sect ion is Aush
wit h t he backer board's top edge.
Trace t he outline of the V-sections on the bclCker
board and cut along the lmver cutti ng li nes using a j ig
saw (photo 3).
Draw lines on the Front of t he bac ker board
showing the locations of the wa llboard sc rews in the
V-sect ion asse mbl y.
Mark the position for three sc rews along each
side of the V-sections, avoiding the lines made for
the wallboard screws inside the V-sections. Then
drill holes t hrough the backer board at the placement
marks, using I / ~ ! I drill bit .
INSTALL THE BACKER BOARD
Place unit on the table, wit h the front edge facing
dO\vn. Turn the backer board over, a nd position it on
top of the wor kpi ece, aligni ng t he edges.
Keeping the unit aligned with t he backer board,
drill a pi lot hol e in the placement mark closest to the
ce nter of the middl e V-section with the adjustabl e
eounte rbore bit. On ly dri ll deep enough with the bit to
create a counters ink for the head of the screw.
2
Clamp each new shelf to the workpiece so that the new
shelf is flush against the worksurface.
Drive a vva ll board sc rew into t he countersunk
pil ot hole (photo 4) and recheck t he al ignment of the
two pieces.
Dril l and cou nte rsink t he remai ning pi lot holes
and drive wal lboard sc rews t hrough the holes into
the V-sec ti ons, startjng \vith t he ends of t he unit and
worki ng your way back to\vard the center.
APPLY THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Cut a 3/8" dowel into Ill " lengths to usc as wood plugs
for t he eounterbored holes. Bevel onc end of caeh
pl ug by sanding or fi l ing it sl ightly.
Place a smal l amount of wood gl ue i n t he
counterbored holes using a cotton swab. Insert a wood
plug into eac h hole, beveled e nd first, a nd tap it in
place wi t h a hammer or a rubber mall et (phot o 5).
'v\fipe away any excess gl ue usi ng a da mpened clot h.
All ow the glue to dry overnight.
Sand t hc outer edgcs of t he backer board and edges
of the shelves. Cut off thc excess of t he plugs af ter t he
glue has dri ed using a smal l hand saw. T he pl ugs should
onl y extend sl ightly from t he surface. Take care not to
scratch the wood surface vvhe n trimming t he plugs.
Sand t he plugs Rush with t he surfClce, usi ng
SO-grit sandpaper on a sandi ng bl oc k. Sand t he enti re
unit unt il smooth, using fi ne-grit sandpaper.
Paint the uni t or apply t he stain of your choice
and a clear acrylic finish. Let the finis h dry according
to the manufacturer's instructions.
To mount t he shelving unit, locate studs in the wall
to use as mounting points. If no studs are avai lable,
mClke sure to use t he proper type of \vall fastener.
Variation
Using the same assembly steps, make a diagonal
shelving unit as shown on page 210. Increase the
"step up" effect by cutting the shelf panels to
graduated lengths. Cut the lowest shelf at 8'1,' long,
the second shelf at 7'k" long, the next two at 6'k", and
the last two at 5'k" long. Then hang the shelf on the
wall diagonally The graduated shelves allow you to
place heavier, larger objects on the lower shelves and
lighter more decorative pieces above.

Mark lines on the backer board front
indicating where the V-sections are
screwed together. Then mark reference
lines for three screws along each
section.
Position the backer board over the
workpiece, aligning the edges, and drive
screws through countersunk pilot holes
starting with the hole closest to the
center.
Tap the wood plugs into the
counterbored holes. Allow the glue to
dry, and trim the wood plugs using a
small hand saw.
Rill & SIIe/viJ1g Uuil 213
I Trimwork Wall Shelves
H
ere's a neat trick: Build a shelf that stores, displays
and elevates your favorite collectibles and kni ck
knacks so they' re \,vell within sight but safely out of
the way. Building these built-up projects is a fun mix
of rough and finish carpe nt ry. \t\1e shO\,v you hO\"1 to
make (\'vo variati ons here: one is a mass of stepped-
back M DF strips that has rcal presence when painted.
The other is a more refi ned three-part assembly simil ar
to cornice mol ding that is made with pine and pine
mol di ngs and boasts a clear wood fi ni sh. The feature
both shelves share is a bro<:l d, Aat surf<:l ce that
performs as a handy display shelf.
If you' re building the crovm molding version of
this proj ect , one skill you may wish to brush up on
ahead of t ime is cutting cmd coping crovm molding.
Working with crown molding requires some mental
gymnastics, but once YOLI learn the fl oor rOlltine you'll
be glad you did.
You can hang your new shelves at just about any
height, alt hough they natura ll y look more comfortable
hi gher up on the wa ll. At least try and posit ion them at
or slightly above eye level. Locat ing the shelves so the
bottom edge rests on top of a door head casing is one
good strategy.
I n this proj ect we detai l two basic interpre tati ons
of the she lving strategy. Bot h are essent iall y built -up
box beams, al though one uses crown molding as the
featured trim whil e the other is based on stepped-back
strips of stock. There are a lso different vari at ions on
how t he shel f can be installed. For example, you can
wrap t he e ntire room with it, si mpl y spa n from one
wall to another, or place it on three wa ll s on ly, etc.
Not on ly is thi s built -in tota ll y home-made, but t he
design is Aexible to suit diffe re nt needs and tastes .
And by c hoos ing trim types and styles that already
are present in your home you ca n e nhance the built -
in look.
The two styles of trimwork shelves seen here
are constructed with s imple butt joi nt s for ease of
building. If you have t he woodworki ng equipment and
skill s, cons ider using dado joints instead of butt joints
where it makes sense. \t\lith dado joints, t he wood
parts can expand and contract (as they a re prone to)
without: creat ing se parati on gaps.
Trimwork H01l She/Jles 215
Crown Molding Shelf
A
E
B
Stepped Version Shelf
Tools Materials
Table saw Drill /driver and bits Drywall or deck screws
Mi ter smv Tape iV1easure Fini sh nail s
Level or laser level
Square
Fini shing materials
Cutting List: Crown version Cutting List : Stepped Version
Part Desc. No. Size Material Part Desc. No. Size Material
A Shelf top % x 7" x length Pine or oak A Shelf top % x 6
1
11 x length MDF
B Shelf bottom % x 2%" x length Pine or oak B Shelf bottom % x 3
1
11 x length MDF
C Shelf front % x 4W' x length Pine or oak C Shelf front l % x 4111 x length MDF
D (rown I' % x 4
1
/." x length Crown molding D Shelf front M % x 3 x length MDF
E ledger ] 1/2 x 3W' x length 2 x 4 E Shelf front S % x ] 1/1 x length MDF
F Filler (opt.) lor2 % x 2% x 3W Pine or ook F ledger ] Vl x 3Vl x length 2 x 4
Make mitered return if end of shelf is open G Filler (opt.) lor2 0/4 x 3
1
/1 X 3Vl MDF
216 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUILT- tNS
How to Build Trimwork Wall Shelves
MARK LAYOUT LINES AND INSTALL LEDGER
While yo u can use a spi rit level to create level lines at
the speciAed height across the wall , use a laser level
instead if you have access to one (photo I ). There are
many types of laser levels on the market a nd eac h is
operated different ly from the ot hers, but all will do
a nne job of accurately proj ecting a line arollnd the
room quickly so you can mark it on the \vall. Some,
suc h as a rotating lase r leve l, al low you to use the li ght
beam cast by the lase r level as the refe rence, so you
don't need to ma ke marks on the wa ll s.
If you plan to install your shelving Aush with the
tops of yo ur door or vvindO\v casing and you find that
they are not level but are close to level (say, \,vithin 1/4"),
use the highest opening as the control poi nt for your
layout and Jill t he gap that' ll be created over the other
windO\,v5 \.vith caulk.
Select a straight 2 X 4 and ClIt it to le ngth. Use
an electronic stud finde r to locate wa ll studs in the
insta llati on area, a nd mark the wa ll studs just bel ow
the leve l line. Choose high quality, 41! -long screws for
attaching the ledger: e ithe r use tempered hex-head
deck sc rews or square drive multipurpose cabinet
screws . Apply panel adhesive t o the back of t he ledger
and position it so the bottom edge fall s just above the
level line and the e nds are in the cor rect spot. Dri ve
a pai r of sc rews through t he ledger and into the wal l
studs at each stud location (photo 2). These screws
don't nor mall y require a pilot hole.
How to Build a Crown Molding Shelf
1 ___ r-
2
Use a laser level to create a level
reference line for the shelf ledger
installation. Mark the location of the
bottom edge of the ledger, making sure
to allow room for the bottom panel above
the door trim and for the full height of the
finished project.
Attach the ledger to the wall studs with
4" cabinet screws and panel adhesive.
Double-check to make sure the ledger is
level after you drive the first screw.
3
BUILD A CROWN-MOLDING SHELF
We des igned thi s crown-molding based shelf to be
proportional to the same size and shape molding that
already existed at the ceiling in our install ation room
(%" x 4
1
/4" crown), Jnstall molding pieces from the
bottom a nd work yo ur \"/a)' lip. If you're wrapping a
room, do "laps" with eac h layer of trim. Rip oak stock
for the bottom pane l to width (2W' as seen here) and
cut it to length. Finish sand all oak parts to 150 grit

Attach the bottom strip to the ledger
board with panel adhesive and wood
screws driven into counterbored pil ot
holes.
Attach the shelf to the top of the ledger,
making sure the ends are flush with the
ends of the bottom strip.
before installing the part s. O n the bottom strip, drill
a countcrborcd pil ot hol e every I t', located in a line
3// in from the back edge of the strip. Attac h the
bottom strip to the ledge r wit h panel adhesive and 2
3
//'
Rat head wood sc rews (photo 3).
Next, rip and c rossc ut the top pane l to width
and lengt h and then attClc h it to t he top of the ledge r
with panel adhesive a nd 6d fi n ish nails (photo 4).
The ends s hould be Rush with the bottom strip ends ,
5
and t he top pu nel s hould be butted clean ly agai nst
the wa ll.
Measure the di stance from the front face of the
ledge r to the front edge of the bottom strip and cut
a few spacers to this le ngt h from sc rap. Attac h the
spacers to the face of the ledger at several spots along
the length of the ledger (photo 5). These spacers
will ensure th<:lt the front p<:tnel is vert ical when it is
pos it ioned aga inst the spacers.
o
Attach wood spacers to the front face
of the ledger to ali gn the front panel when
it is pressed against the spacers.
Attach the front panel by naili ng it to
the bottom strip first, and then driving
finish nail s through the top panel.
Rip a nd crosscut the front panel to v,lidt h a nd
length, press it against the space rs so the top edge is
Rus h against the unde rside of the top panel and a ll
e nds a rc aligned. [nsta ll the front panel by driving 6d
finis h nail s through the front panel a nd into the edge
of the bottom stri p (photo 6). You a lso may nail at the
sp<:I cer locations if yo u \vish. Also dri ve na ils thro ugh
the top pa ne l a nd into the top edge of the front panel.
Set t he nail heads with a na il set.
Finally, nail the crown molding in place at 12" intervals.
I How to Build a stepped Shelf
1
This variation of the trinnvork wa ll shelf idea lIses face-
gl ued strips of MDF to create a stepped-down \.vaterfall
effect . 'vVhi le you can certainly build the whole
project piece-by-piece, you'll be able to do faster, more
accurate \vork if you can preassemble the t hree stepped
down strips on your worksurface. [f you are adding a
re turn on the shelf, as we do here, pre-assembl e t he
strips for the long wall onl y, the n cut each strip for the
mating sect ion to lengt h and butt them up against t he ir
counterpmt on t he Il rst section of shelving.
Layout and instal l the ledger or ledgers as shown
for the previous crown molding project. Make a si mple
butt joi nt in the corner (photo I). I f t he ret urn shelf
is short, you can strengt hen the ledger by driving a
Cut the crO\vn molding to lengt h. If your shelf
has one or m Of e open ends or occ upies more tha n
one wall , see the materia l on making a crovm molding
return (pages 42 to 43). Fit the molding between t he
bottom of t he top panel and t he top of the bottom
strip, maki ng sure the flat ends of t he molding are
fl ush against t he surfaces. Dri ll pilot holes and drive
nai ls <:It J 2" interva ls through the molding and into the
top and bottom stri ps (photo 7).
Cover nail and screw heads wi th \.vood putty and
the n sand and fi nis h t he she lf, matc hing the other
room t ri m if poss ibl e .
Attach the 2 x 4 ledger or ledger to the
wall at your install ation li nes, using cabinet
screws and panel adhesive.
couple of sc rev,ls t hrough t he lo ng ledger a nd into t he
e nd of the ret urn ledger.
Attach t he top and bottom strips as shown in
steps 0 and E of the crown she lf mol ding project.
T hen rip stoc k for t he t hree step strips to \,vidth ( Jlh",
3" and 4
I
h"). Cut t he stri ps sl ightl y too long and the n
gl ue t hem toget her on your \vorksurface, maki ng sure
the tops are Rush. Drive some 2" wa ll board screws
through t he back face of t he ta ll stri p and into the two
shorter stri ps to draw the m together (photo 2).
After the glue-up dries, cut the glue-up assembly to
final lengt h. Trim bot h ends to make sure the ends are
a ligned. T hen, attach some spacers to the front face of
the ledger and attach the three-st rip glue- up by dri ving
screvvs through the assembly und into the front edge of
the bottom panel (photo 3) . Al so dri ve screws through
the top panel and into the tops of the glued-up strips.
Attac h the top and bottom strip for the return
shel f. Make the top long enough to overhang the end
of the return, i f vi sibl e, by j " . Butt the ends of the
top and bottom strips up aga inst the top and bottom
strips already mounted on t he \\lu ll. Then, measure
for each of the three stepped strips, measuring
from the mating edge of it s count erpart on the wa ll
to the end of the return (each successive strip will
On a flat worksurface, join the three stepped strips together
to create strong joints and simplify assembly of the shelf.
4
Cut each stepped strip individually to butt up against the
mating strip in the corner and fasten wi th wallboard screws.
be approximately 3/./ longe r working from top to
bottom). I nstall t he tall strip Rrst , and then attach
the shorter ones in success ion using glue and screv/s
(phot o 4) .
If the return has an exposed end, measure the
opening bet ween the ledger and the shel f front and
cut a fill er piece to fit (in t hi s project, the pi ece V,ICl S
2" wide and 3
1
/2 " tal l. Glue and nai l the fille r into the
opening. Then, cover nail and sc rev/ heads wit h wood
filler, caulk any gaps between the project and the wa ll
(photo 5), and thcn sand, prime and paint thc projcct .
3
Attach the stepped strips to the top and bottom strips
mounted on the ledger.
5
Caulk gaps and fill nai l and screw holes before sanding and
painting your shelf project.
I Box Beam Shelves
I
f you' re looking for a basic starter project that you
can finish wi th your own Aouri shes and Aai r, you've
come to the ri ght place. Thi s shelf is made from a
basic des ign platform that looks great as is, but it
can be eas ily al te red with t rim and fini sh options. In
addition to its versatility, thi s shelf has the benefi t
that its connecti on to the wa ll surface is invisible. The
reason is that the "box" has no back and you can sl ip
it over a ledger board fastened to the wall. Fastening
through the top of the box holds the assembly securely
in place wit hout brackets or even any visi bl e faste ners,
creating a tight, integrated look.
As a des ign e lement in any li ving spuce YOLI ca n
make several Box Beam Shelves and hang them at
differe nt heights in a room to create an accent wa ll.
Or, hang several of them at the sa me level and c reate
a picture rail , of sorts. They're perfect for displaying
c he ri shed items and an ideal spot for long, Aowing
potted plants. Anot her possibi lity is to dado in a plate
groove for di spl ayi ng plates and china.
I f yo u \V<:IIlt to c hange t he size, shape, a nd
reveals on t he basic box you ca n add differe nt
moldings a nd trim to make it you r own. The good
news is that the assembl y tec hni ques for bu ilding the
box remain the same. All you need to do is adjust the
measurell1en ts.
The s helf laid out here is fabr icated from MDF
and shown painted, but YOLl could ll1<1ke it OLl t of
hardwood stock a nd matching hardwood ply\vood if
you prefer. The basic shelf-box is composed of five
pieces: three si des, a bottom, and a top. The shelf is
25 'h" wide, 10'1:' deep, and 3'1:' tall. The top shelf
panel is a single piece of 3// M DF that is 26
1
h" wide
and I 13// deep. The ledger is a 2x ripped I lh" sq uare.
Table saw 3/;" MDF
Miter sav,{ F<:Isteners
Circular saw I) 2 x 4 scrap (at least 24" )
A Top ponel 3/4 X 11 3f4 x 26W MDF
Router I) tube adhesive caulk
B Bottom ponel 'l.xlDx24" MDF
Ladder I ) scrap of 1/./ plywood C Side wrops % x 2Yz x 10
3
// MDF
Level
D Front wrap %x2
1
hx2SW MDF
Cordless drill/driver
E
Sctnder or pmver planer
[Ieot l V1 x l Y1x 23%" 2 x 4 (or 2 x 21
Box Beam She/pes 223
How to Build Box Beam Shelves
CUT THE PARTS
The first step is to cut all the pi eces on the miter and
table saw. II' you need to, rough-cut the M DF sheet
to size lI sing a circu lar 5a\,V, but make the final cuts
with the miter saw <Jnd table smv. Start by fabri cating
the sheWs bOLtom panel. Then, make the pi eces for a
three-sided (or C-Shaped) shelf box. The pieces wi ll
be assembled aroulld the bottom panel. Cut the t op-
shelf panel. Finally, rip the ledger from a piece of 2x
stock. Thi s asse mbly works best if cutting tolerances
are kept ti ght, so be extra careful with measuring,
marking, and cutting.
224 THE COMPLETE CUI DE TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUl t:l' INS
Most power miter saws do not have a
10" cutting capacity. To cut the wide stock
for this project, you can either make a
portion of the cut on the miter saw then
turn the board around so you can finish
the cut, or use a circular saw and square-
guide.
The key to a durable, good-looking
assembly is to cut the sides and the front
strips that wrap the bottom panel bottom
panel accurately. Careful measurement
and cutting keeps the miter joints tight and
together duri ng assembly.
Cut the bottom panel to size ll sing a sliding power
miter smv (or a circular saw and straightedge guide
if your miter saw does n't have a 10" cut capac ity-
photo I ), or a table saw. Because the sides and front
wrap around the bottom panel, it is the control point
for the rest of the layout. Cutting it accurately is
important. Be careful Lo be as exacL as you can while
cutting. Cut stock for the shell' si des (call ed the panel
wraps) to 21h" wi dth and sand, joint, or plane out any
saw marks left behind. Also cut the top panel to size.
Rip the ledger to width ( I 'h") and cross-cut it to
length. Cut the panel wraps to length using the miter
saw (photo 2).
ASSEMBLE THE PARTS
Assembl ing the parts squure and tight all starts with
the bottom panel-it's t he guide for getting the mi ters
nice a nd t ight. For fasten ing, a cordl ess dri ll and tr im
drive screws (predri ll and coun tersin k all holes) is
great. A brad na il e r or ll nis h na il er \vill also wo rk
nicely. Should you use a pneumat ic tool like this,
make sure to drive fasteners stra ight into the stock.
Na ils driven at a n angle can blO\v out of t he material
<J nd are tough to remove.
A good tr ick fo r adding shadow lines is to inset
the bottom into the panel wraps aboll t 1// . Do this
by nrst screwing a scrap of 1/./ plywood (cut just a
littl e small er t han t he bottom panel's dimens ions) on
Clamp the bottom panel to the bench
to keep it stationary while you fasten
the panel wraps around it, enabling you
to focus your attention on getting the
assembly tight.
prior to installing the front panel wrap
to the left panel wrap, dab each miter with
adhesive caulk.
the be nch then clampi ng t he bottom panel over it,
propping it up (photo 3) . Foll ow up by wrapping t he
bottom panel \vit h t he pa nel wraps.
Fasten the left pa ne l wrap to t he bottom panel.
Use the front p<1nei v,lmp to guide your exac t placeme nt
of t he left panel v,rrap. I n other words, match up the
miters on the front and left panel wraps, t hen fasten
the left pa nel wrap. Apply ad hesive cau lk to t he left
panel wrap miter and the left side miter on t he fro nt
panel wrap (photo 4), then insta ll the front panel wrap.
iVIake sure to have a damp clot h or sponge to vv ipe
away any squeeze-out. Repeat this process fo r t he ri ght
panel \.vrap and insta ll. Only fasten the bottom edge.
Box Bealll She/Jles 225
Use a router and proflling bit to shape a decorative
edge " long the front of t he top panel (photo 5). Att "ch
the top piece to the box frame. Before fastening, use a
combinati on square and that all reveals
are the saill e (photo 6).
CAULK & FINISH
I t's easier to caulk and paint thi s project in the shop
than it is on the wall. Caulk, prime, and paint as
desired. A small paint roll er sleeve wi ll give a smooth,
professional fini sh (photo 7) .
cut a decorative profile along t he front edge of the top
panel, such as the agee profile being routed into the top panel
here.
Finishing this BOX Beam Shelf in the shop is much easier
than finishing it in location. Prop it up on its back edge during
finishing so you can access the top, sides, and bottom with a
paint brush. Be careful not to knock it over.
HANG THE SHELF
I nstalling the Box Beam Shelf on the wall ledger
provides an invisi bl e connection. The open baek of
the shelf slips over a ledger board you fasten to the
wall studs. You then drive screws through the shelf
panel down into the ledger for a very snug, very secure
connection. It may be tempt ing on some wall s to
si mpl y use anchors instead of locating and
fastening to two studs, but because all the weight of
the Box Beam Shelf is out at the front edge, that is not
a recommended connecti on. Besides, at 24 II long, the
ledger for the Box Beam Shel f should cover at least
6
Before fastening the top panel on top of the box frame,
make sure that the reveals are equal all the way around and
that the back is flush to the back edge of the box assembly.
8
Make a solid connection with the studs by driving two
screws per stud through the ledger. 1f the stud is near the end
of the ledger, pre-drill and countersink before fastening.
two vvu ll studs ulmost anY\"lhere you put it (especiull y
if your \"lull s have 16 o.c. framing),
Determine the sheWs fina l locat ion and mark it
on the wall . Try to locate it so that the ledger fall s over
two wall framing members. Strike a level li ne. Screw
the ledger to the wall st uds with 3'h" deck screws
(photo 8). Use two screws per stud.
Predri ll countersunk pilot holes for at least three
deck screws 3// in from the back edge of the top panel.
Sl ip the Box Beam Shelf over t he ledger so the back
edges are flush against the wall surface. Fasten the
shelf to the wall by driving t' deck screws through the
pil ot holes and into the top of the ledger (photo 9).
"Other Ideas" ~
One great feature about this shel f design is the numerous
ways you can add your own details to it. You can use your
table saw to cut in a plate groove in the top shelf panel
or apply a molding detail with casing, chair rail or crown
under the top shelf panel to provide lift, create texture and
add shadow lines. You can add a second top shelf panel
a littler larger than the first to create a layered effect. And
you can wrap the back with a picture-frame molding. The
sky is the limit.
You need to alter the sizes of the shelf box and the
top shelf to fi t these additions so lay them out carefully
before you begin cutting wood. But, because the ledger
board connection is strong but small, there is room to
move. Here are some ideas to get you started:
PLATE GROOVE
Addi ng a plate groove is easy and a smart addition if
you plan to display plates or other items like framed
photos that you intend to lean on the wall. You can cut
the grooves in a single pass on your table saw using a
dado head cutter, or you can take multiple passes with a
standard saw blade to create the groove. Make the groove
%" to %" wide and '/4" deep. You can even use a router
and edge guide to plow a dado into the top of the shelf
panel. Tip: When cutting the groove, do not cut all the way
up to the ends of the board. That way, the groove will be
invisible when viewed from below or straight on. If you cut
past the shel f ends you'll be able to see the groove.
MOLDING DETAIL
Adding a basic chair rail molding is the easiest add-on
option for the Box Beam Shel f. Depending on the chair
9
Hold the shelf tight to the wall and fasten using at least three
2" deck screws driven through pilot holes and into the tops of
the ledger.
rail you choose, you may not even have to alter the
measurements on the shel f box, and you can apply
the chair rail right to the box. However, if you select a
molding that is more than W' thick, trim the box size by
%" so you can keep the top shelf panel's 1" overhang.
If you add a molding that's 1" thick or thicker, make the
sides of the box 1" shorter and 1" thinner to compensate.
LAYERS
using two- instead of one- top shelf panels is another
simple but interesting way to add detail. Make the
second top shelf panel 'h" deeper and 1" longer than
the original shelf panel shown above. Then, instead of
routing a bead on the top of the panel, rout a chamfer
on the bottom of each shelf panel to make them look
like they are stepped and ascending. Routing a cove is
also a nice detail.
PICTURE FRAME
Whichever shel f you build, you can add a picture frame
molding to the back of the unit to make the unit look
like it is an extension of the wall space. The idea is to
use 1 x 4 or MDF ri pped to width and wrap the back
of the Box Beam Shelf with it. Install the shel f box
without the top shelf panel and fasten into the ledger
board from the sides. Install the picture frame moldi ng
before installing the top shelf panel or any other
molding combi nations. Also be aware that the picture
frame molding adds 'I,' to the overall depth of the shelf
so you may want to trim a correspondi ng 'I,' off your top
shelf panels.
Box Bealll She/Jles 227
I Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves
F
loor-to-ce i ling s he lves are sturdier and make better
use of space t han freestanding bookcases. Whe n
fini s hed a nd tri mmed to matc h t he surrounding rOOIll ,
Aoor-to-ce iling shelves t urn an ordinary room into an
invit ing den or library.
Thi s projec t llses finis h-grade oak plywood and a
solid oak face frame to create t he look of an expensive,
solid oak s helf unit at a fract ion of the cost . The
pl ywood pa ne ls are supported a nd st rengthened by a n
internal framework of 2 x 4 stud lumbe r.
\;Vhen instull ing Aoor-to-ceiling shelves in a
corner, as shovvn here, add 1// ply\,vood spacers to t he
support st uds t hat <Jdjoi n the wa ll . Spacers e nsure tha t
face frame stiles of equal width can be insta ll ed at
both she lf ends (see diagram, page opposite) .
Al though it is simil ar in some fashio ns to t he
formal bookcase project featured on pages 188 to 193,
this more casual vers ion utili zes somewhat differe nt
building tec hn iques and has a more contemporary!
casual <:tppe<:tra nce. The end panels a nd stand<:trds
are made from relut ivel y inexpens ive plyv.:ood vv ith
a red oak veneer t hat has a medi um oak
finis h. If this high ly recogni za ble look doesn't guite lit
in wit h your decor, simply use pl ywood with a diffe re nt
oute r veneer, suc h as maple or bi rch or wa ln ut , and
eit her leave the \'\food uncolored or give it a da rk
sta in . Or, you ca n build t he project fro m
pl yv.rood and fi ni sh it with a livel y color.
Tape measure ( 12) 2 X 4 X 8 pinc
Penci l (3) 't X 4 x 8 oak plywood
Level (2) 3j, x 4 x 8 oak plywood
A 6 Top ond sole plotes 59y," 2 x 4s
Framing square (3) I x 4 x lOft. oak
B 6 Support studs 91 ';'" 2 x 4s
Plumb bob ( I ) I x 3 X 10ft. oak C End ponel 950/. x 13" y," ook plywood
Dri ll with drive bit s Finish nail s ( 11/1 ", 2")
D 4 Top. bottom ponels 27'1. x 13" y," ook plywood
Hammer Dr)"vall or deck screws
E 8 Risers 44'1. x 13" ';'" ook plywood
Circular saw ( ]3/-t ", 2", 3")
Houter Sh ims
F 2 Permanent shelves 27'1. x 13" %" ook plywood
3// straight bi t Metal shelf standards and cli ps
G 8 Adjustoble shelves 26'1. x 11'1. %" ook plywood
Finishing materials
H Stiles ond bottom roil 28 lineal ft. I x 4 ook
1// plywood scraps
Top roil, middle roil 10 lineal ft. I x 3 ook
Carpenter's gl ue
J Shelf edging 18 lineal ft. I x 2 ook
Flonr-/o-Cei li l1g She/pes 229
How to Build Floor-to-Ceiling Shelves
Mark the location for two parallel 2 x 4 top plates on the
ceiling, using a framing square as a guide. The front edge of the
outer top plate should be 13" from the back wall, and the other
top plate should be flush against the wall. Mark the location of
the ceiling joists; if necessary, install blocking between joists to
provide a surface for anchoring the top plates.
Measure and cut the 2 x 4 top plates. Posi tion each plate,
check to make sure it is level, and install shims if necessary.
Attach the plates to the ceiling wi th 3" screws driven into the
joists or blocking.
3 ~ -
Cut 2 x 4 sale plates and screw them
together to form two doubled sale
plates. Use a plumb bob suspended
from the outside corners of the top
plates to align the sole plates. Shim the
plates to level, if needed. Anchor the
plates by driving 3" screws toenail-style
into the floor
Install 2 x 4 support studs between the
ends of the top plates and sole plates.
Attach support studs with 3" screws
driven toenail-style into the top plates
and sole plates.
Install the center support studs
midway between the end support studs.
Attach them to the bottom plate first,
using 3" screws driven toenail-style. Use
a level to make sure that each stud is
plumb, then attach the studs to the top
plate with 3" screws.
Where the shelves fit into a corner,
use 1%" screws to attach '." plywood
spacers on the inside faces of the
support studs, spaced every 4" . Make
sure spacers do not extend past the
front face of the studs.
Measure and cut lower risers from
'k" plywood, then cut dadoes for metal
shelf standards using an edge guide
(page 41).
Where the end of the project is
exposed, measure and cut a 'h" plywood
end panel to floor-to-ceiling height.
Attach the panel to the support studs
so the front edges are flush, using n ...
screws driven through the support
studs and into the end panel.
10
Install lower risers on each side of
the 2 x 4 support studs so the front
edges are flush with the edges of the
studs. Attach risers with 1'." finish nails
driven into the support studs. For risers
that adjoin the wall, drive nails at spacer
locations.
Measure and cut 'k " plywood top
and bottom panels to fit between the
support studs. Attach to the top and
sale plates using 1'. " finish nails.
Measure and cut permanent shelves
from .' plywood to fit between the
support studs, just above the lower
risers. Set the shelves on the risers and
attach them with 1 'k " finish nails driven
down into the risers.
Floor-to-Ceilil1g She/Jles 231
Measure and cut upper risers to fit between the permanent
shelves and the top panels. Cut dadoes for metal shelf
standards, then attach the risers to the support studs with 1 ' h"
finish nails.
Measure and cut 1 x 3 top rails to fit between the stiles. Drill
pilot holes and attach the rails to the top plate and top panels,
using carpenter's glue and 1'k" finish nails.
13
Measure and cut 1 x 3 stiles to reach from floor to ceiling
along the front edges of the exposed support studs. Drill pilot
holes and attach the stiles to the support studs so they are
flush with the risers, using glue and 1'h" finish nails driven at 8"
intervals.
15
Measure and cut 1 x 4 bottom rails to fit between the stiles.
Drill pilot holes, and attach the rails to the sale plates and
bottom panels, using glue and 1 'h" finish nails. The top edge of
the rails should be flush wi th the top surface of the plywood
panels.
Fill nail holes, then sand and finish the
wood surfaces.
Measure, cut, and install metal shelf
standards into the dadoes, using nails or
screws provided by the manufacturer.
20
Measure and cut adjustable shelves
,, " shorter than the distance between
metal standards. Cut shel f edging, and
attach it with glue and 1'h" finish nails.
Sand and finish the shelves.
Insert shelf clips into the metal shelf standards and install
the adjustable shelves at desired heights.
Cover gaps between the project and walls and floor with
molding that has been finished to match the shelf unit.
Floor-fa-Ceilillg She/Jles 233
I Photo Credits
Aristokraft Cabinetry
Aristokraft Cabinetry; p. 6
www.aristokraft.com
Todd Caverly
Todd Caverl y for Judy Ostrow, Designer; p. 7 (ri ght)
Todd Caverl y for G. M. Wild Construction, Inc.; pp.1D, 15 (bottom left)
Todd Caverly; p. 15 (t op)
Diamond Cabinets
Di amond Cabinets, a division of MasterBrand Cabinets, Inc.; pp. 5, 9
www.diamondcabinets.com
Focal point Architectural products
Focal point Archi tectural product s; p. 7 (left)
www.focalpointap.com
KraftMaid Cabinetry, Inc.
KraftMaid Cabinetry, Inc.; pp.13, 16 (bottom)
wwwkraftmaid.com
Omega Cabinetry
Omega Cabinetry; p. 15 (bottom ri ght)
wwwomegacab.com
Quality Cabinets
Quality Cabinet s; p. 14
www. quali tycabinets.com
Quentin Harriot
Quenti n Harriotlwwwewastock.com; p. 17
Brian VandenBrink
Brian VandenBrink for Elli ott Elliott Norelius Architect s; p. 8 (t op)
Brian VandenBrink for Brett Donham Architect; p. 8 (bottom)
Bri an VandenBrink for Centerbrook Archi tect s; p. 12 (top)
Brian VandenBrink for Lo Yi Chan Architect; p. 12 (bottom)
Wellborn Cabinet, Inc.
Well born Cabinet , lnc., pp.11 (both), 16 (t op)
wwwwellborn.com
Index
A
Access space, standard built-in
measurements for, 31
AC plywood, 28
Actual vs. nominal sizes, 32
Adjustable shelves, installing, 185
Adjustments, making smal l width
or height, 32
Angled finish nailers, 26
Assembly jigs, making, 200
B
Bars, building, 168-179
installing bartop, 176-177
installing cabinets, 177-178
instal ling countertop, 179
instal ling trim & hardware, 177-178
making aprons and trims, 173-174
making kneewall coverings,
174-175
making kneewalls, 172-173
overview of, 168-171
Base cabinets
instal ling, 58-59
installing for window seats, 82-85
standard built-in depth
Basements
building joist shelves for, 206-209
building shelves for, 194-197
Bevel returns, 42
Biscuit joiners, 25
Block planes, 22, 23
Bookshelves/ bookcases
building floor-to-ceiling shelves,
228-233
building formal, 188-193
ideas for, 10-11
for window seats, 80-87
Box beam shelves, building, 222-227
Brad nai lers, 26
Brads, 27
Butcher block, 62
C
Cabinets
adding doors, 46
carpeting and, 153
door options, 47
installing, 54-59
base, 58-59,82-84,90, 91-93
corner, 54
kneewall,162-167
wall, 55-57,90,91
Chalk lines, 21
Chi ldren's rooms
ideas for, 15
making loft beds for, 94-101
Chisels, 22, 23
Chop saws, 24, 25
Base shoe returns, cutting mitered, 43 Circular saws, 24
Bathrooms Closet shelves, installing, 204-205
building towel towers, 136-141 Combination squares, 21
buil ding wall cabinets, 156-161
ideas for, 8-9, 14-15
making bin & shelving units, 210-213
Bedrooms
ideas for, 8
making bed surrounds, 88- 93
making loft beds, 94-101
Belt sanders, 25
Benches, building country-style,
104-109
compound power miter saws, 24, 25
Compound power miter saw stops, 200
Compressors, 26
Construction tools, 22-23
Contact cement, 68, 73
coping saws, 22, 23
Cordless drills, 24
Corner cabinets, installing, 54
Corner unit hobby centers,
building, 150-155
Couches, storage under, 12
Countertops
installing laminate, 68-75
installing post-form, 64-67
materials, 62-63
wood edges for, 76-77
Country-style eating nooks,
building, 102-111
benches, 104-109
tables, 108-111
Crown molding wall shelves,
building, 214-220
Crown staples, 27
Cube shelves, building, 198-203
Cutting jOints, 36
o
Dado jOints, 215
Diagrams
accurately scaled, 30
for cutting, 33
Display units
building box beam shelves,
222- 227
building cubes, 198-203
building floor-to-ceiling shelves,
228-233
building trimwork wall shelves,
214-221
building V-step bin and shelving
units, 210-213
building wall niches,l12-117
ideas for, 7, 11
step back boxes, 203
Doors
adding, 46
options for, 47
Drawers
building basic overlay, 48-49
measuring for, 48
standard built-in measurements
for, 31
Drawings, making, 30
frub: 235
Drills, cordless, 24
Dry bars, building, 168-179
installing bartop, 176-177
install ing cabinets, 177-178
install ing countertop, 179
installing trim & hardware, 177-178
Home offices
building understairs work
centers, 142-149
ideas for, 12-13
making aprons and trims, 173-174 Inside corners, mitering, 40
making kneewall coverings, 174-175
making kneewalls, 172-173 J
overviewof,168-171 Jig saws, 24
Dust masks, 22 JOints, cutting & fitting, 36
E
Ear protection, 22, 35
End nippers, 22, 23
Eye protection, 22, 35
F
Fasteners, pneumatic, 27
Files, 22, 23
Finishes
applying grain fillers, 53
making sanding sealers, 51
for moist areas, 156
preparing wood for, 50-52
using sanding sealers, 53
when to apply, 161
Finish nailers, 26
Finish nails, 27
Finish sanders, 25
Fitting joints, 36
Frameless doors, 47
Framing squares, 21
G
Garages, building utility shelves
for, 194-197
Glass doors, 47
Grain fillers, applying, 53
H
Hammers, 22, 23
Handsaws, 22, 23
Hardwood veneer plywood, 28
Headless pins, 26, 27
Height adjustments, making small, 32
Hidden shelving, making, 206-209
Hobby centers, building, 150-155
Joist shelving, making, 206-209
K
Kitchens
building dividers to separate eating
& cooking areas, 118-127
building eating nooks, 102-111
benches, 104-109
tables, 108- 111
creating islands for, 60-61
ideas for, 8,11, 12, 16
making countertops, 62-77
installing post-form, 64-67
laminate, 68-75
wood edges for, 76-77
Kneewall areas
building work centers, 142-149
ideas, 16-17
installing cabinets in, 162-167
Knives, 22, 23
L
Laminate countertops, building, 68-75
Laser levels, 21
Laundry centers, 128-135
building utility shelves for, 194-197
lighting in, 128, 130, 134-135
making joist shelving for, 206-209
Layout tools, 20-21
Level, establishing, 44-45
Levers, 21
Lighting
for bed surrounds, 88
in laundry centers, 128, 130,
134-135
in work area, 34
Loft beds, making, 94-101
Lumber, 29
236 THE COMPLETE CUIf)E TO CUSTOM SHELVES & BUILT I NS
M
Materials
actual vs. nominal sizes, 32
li st of, 33
lumber, 29
sheet goods, 28
Measurements, 31-33
Medium density fiberboard (MDF), 28
Medium density overlay (MDO), 28
Metal files, 22, 23
Metals standards for adjustable
shelves, installing, 185
Mitered returns, cutting, 42-43
Modular shelves, 184
Moldings, adding, 227
N
Nail guns, 26
Nails, 27
Niches, building, 112-117
Nominal vs. actual sizes, 32
Nooks and crannies storage
ideas, 16- 17
o
Odd-shaped room seating ideas, 12
Out-of-square outside corners,
mitering, 39
Outside corners, mitering, 38-39
p
Pin nailers, 26
Pin-style supports for adjustable
shelves, installing, 185
Planers, 25
Planning steps, 30-33
Plate grooves, 227
Plumb, establishing, 44-45
Plywood,28
Pneumatic fasteners, 27
Pneumatic tools, 26
portable compressors, 26
Post-form countertops,
installing, 64-67
Power miter saws, 24, 25
Power miter saw stops, 200
Power miter saw techniques, 37-43
mitering inside corners, 40
mitering outside corners, 38-39
Power planers, 25
Power tools, 24-25, 35
Preparation steps
jobsite organizing, 34
planning, 30-33
profile gauges, 21
Protective gear, 22, 35
Pry bars, 22
Putty knives, 22, 23
R
Random-orbit sanders, 25
Rasps, 22, 23
Ready-made cabinet doors, 47
Reciprocating saws, 24, 25
Room dividers
bui lding, 118-127
storage idea, 11
Routers, 25
S
Safety gear, 22, 35
Safety issues, 35
Sanders, 25
Sanding sealers
making, 51
using, 53
Sandpaper grit chart, 51
Saws, 22, 23, 24,25, 37
Seating
bui lding country-style
benches, 104-109
ideas for, 8, 12
for, 31
Sheet goods, 28
Shelves
attaching cleats to wall, 191
attachment methods, 183
building box beam, 222-227
bui lding cube, 198-203
bui lding floor-to-ceiling, 228-233
bui lding joist, 206-209
bui lding trimwork wall, 214-221
bui lding utility, 194-197
installing adjustable, 185
installing closet, 204-205
installing wire, 186-187
modular, 184
for, 31
strength of, 182, 183
Side cutters, 22, 23
Sliding doors, 47
Sliding miter saws, 37
Sale plates, thickness of, 32
Solvent-base contact cement, 68
Sports equipment storage ideas, 15
Square corners, establishing, 44-45
Square inside corners, mitering, 40
Square outside corners, mitering, 38
Standard built-in measurements, 31
Staplers, 26
Staples, 27
Stepback boxes, 203
Stepped wall shelves,
building, 214-217, 220-221
Stops for miters, 200
Straightedge guides, 41
Stud finders, 21
T
Table saws, 25
Tape measures, 20
T-bevels, 21, 45
Tools
construction, 22-23
importance of qual ity, 20
for layout, 20-21
pneumatic, 26
power, 24-25, 35
TOp plates, thickness of, 32
Towel towers, building, 136-141
U
Underbed storage ideas, 8
Understairs
building kneewall cabinets
for, 162-167
building work centers, 142-149
wine storage ideas for, 16-17
Utility knives, 22, 23
Utility rooms
building joist shelves for, 206- 209
building shelves for, 194-197
ideas for, 15
V
Veneer edge tapes, 184
V-step bin and shelving units,
making, 210-213
W
wainscoting paneling, 28
Wall cabinets, installing, 55-57
Wall display units
building box beam shelves,
222-227
building cubes, 198- 203
building floor-to-ceiling
shelves, 228- 233
building trimwork wal l shelves,
214-221
building V-step bin and shelving
units, 210-213
building wall niches, 112-117
ideas for, 7, 11
step back boxes, 203
Water-base contact cement, 68
Width adjustments, making small , 32
Window seats, making, 80-87
installing base cabinets, 82-85
making bookcases for sides, 86-87
Wine racks, 16- 17
Wire shelves, installing, 186-187
Wood
glues and headless pins for, 27
grain fillers for, 51, 53
lumber, 29
preparing for finishes, 50-52
sheet goods, 28
Work area set-up, 34
Work-surface height, standard built-in
I I/dex 237
I Conversion Charts
Converting Measurements
To Convert: To: Multiply by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4
Inches Centimeters 2.54
Feet Meters 0.305
' YardS
Meiers 0.914
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45
[square feet Square meters 0.093
Square yards Square meters 0.836
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765
Ounces Milliliters 30.0
[ Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (Imp. 0.568)
Quarts (U.S.) liters 0.946 (Imp. 1.136)
tGaliOnS (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (Imp. 4.546)
Ounces Grams 28.4
t pounds Kilograms 0.454
Lumber Dimensions
Nominal - U.S. Actual - U.S.
METRIC
1 x 2 4 x 11k'
19x 38 mm
1x3 =4 x 21h' 19 x 64 mm
1 x 4
=4 x 31;2' 19 x 89 mm
1x5 4 x 4112' 19x114mm
1x6
=4 x 51;2' 19x 140mm
1 x 7
4 X 6V4' 19x159mm
1 x 8 4 X 7V4'
19 x 184 mm
1 x 10
=4 X 9V4' 19x 235 mm
1 x 12 4 X 11V4'
19x 286 mm
1V4 x 4 1 x 31;2' 25x89mm
1V4 x 6
1 x 51;2' 25x140mm
1V4 x 8
1 x 7114' 25x184mm
lV4xlO
1 x 9V4' 25 x 235 mm
1V4 x 12
1 x 111/4' 25 x 286 mm
11k x 4
lV4x31h' 32x89mm
H 2x 6 1V4X5112' 32 x 140 mm
11k x 8
1114 x 7114' 32x184mm
11;2 x 10
1114 x 9V4' 32 x 235 mm
11k x 12
1114 X 11114'
32 x 286 mm
2x4 11k x 31;2' 38x89mm
2x6 11k x 51;2'
38x 140mm
2x8 11k x 7114' 38x184mm
2 x 10 11k X 9V4'
38 x 235 mm
2 x 12 11kx 11114' 38 x 286 mm
3x6 2112 x 51;2'
64 x 140 mm
4x4 3
1
12 x 31;2' B9xB9mm
4x6 3
1
12 x 5
1
12'
89x140mm
To Convert : To: Multiply by:
Millimeters Inches 0.039
Centimeters Inches 0.394
Meters Feet 3.28
I Meters Yards 1.09
Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Il square meters Square feet 10.8
Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Milliliters Ounces 033
I liters Pints (US.) 2.114 (Imp. 1.76)
liters Quarts (US.) 1.057 (Imp. 0.88)
Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (Imp. 022)
Grams Ounces 0.035
I Kilograms Pounds 22
Liquid Measurement Equivalents
1 Pint = 16 Fluid Ounces = 2 Cups
1 Quart = 32 Fluid Ounces = 2 Pints
1 Gallon = 128 Fluid Ounces = 4 Quarts
converting Temperatures
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by
following this simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit
temperature reading. Then, multiply that number by &t.
For example, nOF - 32 = 45. 45 x % = 25C.
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the
Celsius temperature reading by 9;5. Then, add 32 For example,
25C x 9;5 = 45. 45 + 32 = nF.
FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS
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Complete Guide to Home Plumbing
Complete Guide to Home Wiring
Complete Guide to Landscape Construction
Complete Guide to Masonry & Stonework
Complete Guide to Outdoor Wood Projects
Complete Guide to Painting & Decorating
Complete Guide to Roofing & Siding
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