AMITY UNIVERSITY RAJASTHAN

BASKET COURSE-TEXTILE DESIGN

ASSIGNMENT ON INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

SUBMITTED TO:Bindu mam

SUBMITTED BY:-

Anshul Sharma B.TECH (MAE) 4TH SEM SEC-A

TEXTILES
The Indian Textiles Industry has an overwhelming presence in the economic life of the country. Apart from providing one of the basic necessities of life, the textiles industry also plays a pivotal role through its contribution to industrial output, employment generation, and the export earnings of the country. Currently, it contributes about 14 percent to industrial production, 4 percent to the GDP, and 17 percent to the countrys export earnings. It provides direct employment to over 35 million people, which includes a substantial number of SC/ST, and women. The Textiles sector is the second largest provider of employment after agriculture. Thus, the growth and all round development of this industry has a direct bearing on the improvement of the economy of the nation. The Indian textiles industry is extremely varied, with the hand-spun and hand-woven sector at one end of the spectrum, and the capital intensive, sophisticated mill sector at the other. The decentralized power looms / hosiery and knitting sectors form the largest section of the Textiles Sector. The close linkage of the Industry to agriculture and the ancient culture, and traditions of the country make the Indian textiles sector unique in comparison with the textiles industry of other countries. This also provides the industry with the capacity to produce a variety of products suitable to the different market segments, both within and outside the country.

Exports of textiles and clothing during 2007-08 were of the order US $ 22.13 billion against the target of US $ 25.06 billion. During the year 2007-08, exports of textiles had adversely been affected by, inter-alia, recessionary trends in the USA which is the single largest destination for Indias textiles exports, erosion of cost competitiveness of Indias exporters due to high input and transaction costs as well as appreciation of the Indian Rupee vis-a-vis the US dollar. Government has fixed the target for export of textiles for 2008-09 at 20% over the actual performance in 2007-08 and the target, in real terms for the current year, is thus set at US $ 26.55 billion. BROCADES - THE TRADITION OF BRINGING SILK TO LIFE Brocade weaving, especially with gold and silver, has been an age-old tradition in India. There are two broad classes of brocades. Brocades of pure silk or silk and cotton blends and zari brocades with gold and silver threads. The most important material in brocade weaving is silk. It facilitates lovely weaves, is durable, strong, fine and smooth. There are several varieties of raw silk of which the chief ones used for brocades are Tanduri, Banaka and Mukta. Tanduri is imported from Malda and other places in Bengal. Banaka is thinner and finer variety and is mostly used to weave soft fabrics such as turbans and handkerchiefs. Mukta is a coarse and durable silk used for kimkhabs, as fine silk would not withstand heavy gold patterns. REFINING SILK FOR BROCADE MAKING Raw silk is specially treated for brocades. It is first twisted (called 'silk throwing') after which the threads undergo reeling and checking for uniformity and roundness. When the yarn has been processed, it is bleached and "degummed", as raw silk has a gum-like substance (sericin) in its composition. This has to be removed in order to bring out the sheen and softness and to enable penetration of the dye. The task has to be done with great care as the fibers can weaken or get damaged. The silk is boiled in soap water for certain duration and then sent for dying.

PRODUCTION India is the second largest producer of fibre in the world and the major fibre produced is cotton. Other fibres produced in India include silk, jute,wool, and man-made fibers. 60% of the Indian textile Industry is cotton based. The strong domestic demand and the revival of the Economic markets by 2009 has led to huge growth of the Indian textile industry. In December 2010, the domestic cotton price was up by 50% as compared to the December 2009 prices. The causes behind high cotton price are due to the floods in Pakistan and China.India projected a high production of textile (325 lakh bales for 2010 -11). There has been increase in India's share of global textile trading to seven percent in five years. The rising prices are the major concern of the domestic producers of the country. Man Made Fibers: These include manufacturing of clothes using fiber or filament synthetic yarns. It is produced in the large power loom factories. They account for the largest sector of the textile production in India.This sector has a share of 62% of the India's total production and provides employment to about 4.8 million people. The Cotton Sector: It is the second most developed sector in the Indian Textile industries. It provides employment to huge amount of people but its productions and employment is seasonal depending upon the seasonal nature of the production. The Handloom Sector: It is well developed and is mainly dependent on the SHGs for their funds. Its market share is 13% of the total cloth produced in India. The Woolen Sector: India is the 7th largest producer of the wool in the world. India also produces 1.8% of the world's total wool. The Jute Sector: The jute or the golden fiber in India is mainly produced in the Eastern states of India like Assam and West Bengal. Indian is the 3rd largest producer of jute in the world. The Sericulture and Silk Sector: India is the 2nd largest producer of silk in the world. India produces 18% of the world's total silk. Mulberry, Eri, Tasar, and Muga are the main types of silk produced in the country. It is a labor-intensive sector.

Raw Jute

Raw jute crop is an important cash crop to the farmers. Cultivation of raw jute crop provides not only fibre, which has industrial use, but also jute stick which is an important fuel to the farming community. Raw jute is produced mainly in the States of West Bengal, Bihar, Assam, Orissa, Andhra Pradesh, Tripura and Meghalaya.
Production of Jute Goods

During 2006-07 (April-March), total production of jute goods was at 1356.30 thousand M.T. During 2007-08 (upto Oct., 2007), production of jute goods is 1024.1 thousand M.T. as against 869.3 thousand M.T. during the corresponding period of 2006-07.
Exports

During 2006-2007 (April-March07), the export, which was Rs.10,552 Million equivalent to about US$ 241 Million, In terms of quantity, export during 2006-2007 was to the tune of 2,42,800 M.Ton. Export of Yarn has shown an upward trend by 13% in quantity and 14% in value terms as compared to corresponding period of previous year. Similarly, Sacking also has shown an increasing trend by 4% in value terms during 2006-07 as compared to 200506. On the basis of dispatches of jute goods for exports, based on the returns of jute mills, exports of jute goods during 2007-08 ( upto November, 2007), have been estimated at 1,42,000 M.T. valued at Rs. 7,755 million equivalent to

about US$ 197 million. USA, Egypt, Belgium, Turkey and Syria had been the five major importing countries for Indian jute goods which accounted for about 46% of total exports of jute goods in value terms.
The major exportable items of Indian jute goods are Hessian, Sacking, Yarn of traditional products, Floor coverings and Hand & shopping bags in the Diversified Jute Products (JDP) sub-sector. Recently Food Grade Jute Cloth and Bags (FGJP) and Jute Geo Textiles (Soil Saver) have emerged as the other potential exportable jute items. Sericulture and Silk Textile Sericulture is an important labour-intensive and agro-based cottage industry, providing gainful occupation to around six million persons in rural and semi-urban areas in India.India continues to be the Second largest producer of silk in the World and has the distinction of producing all the four varieties of silk viz. Mulberry, Eri, Tasar, and Muga. In 2006-07, Mulberry accounts for 89.4%, Eri 8.0%, Tasar 1.9%, and Muga 0.7%, of the total raw silk production of 18475 MTs in the country. Handlooms Handlooms constitute a timeless facet of the rich cultural heritage of India. As an economic activity, the handlooms occupy a place second only to agriculture in providing livelihood to the people. The element of art and craft present in Indian handlooms makes it a potential sector for the upper segments of domestic and global market. Handlooms form a precious part of the generational legacy and exemplify the richness and diversity of our culture and the artistry of the weavers. Tradition of weaving by hand is a part of the countrys cultural ethos. Handloom is unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility, permitting experimentation and encouraging innovation. Weavers with their skillful blending of myths, faiths, symbols and imagery provide their fabric an appealing dynamism. The production of handloom fabrics has gone up to 6536 million sq. meters in 2006-07, from 500 million sq. meters in the early fifties. During 2007-08 (upto Oct. 2007), the production of cloth is 4001 mn. Sq. mtr. and it is expected to reach 7,074 mn. sq.mtr. by March 2008. The sector accounts for 13% of the total cloth produced in the country (excluding clothes made of wool, silk and hand spun yarn). Production and Employment During 2007-08 (up to October, 2007), the handlooms sector produced 4001 million sq. metres (Provisional) of cloth, up by 7.5% over the corresponding period of 2006-07. As per the joint census of Handlooms and Powerlooms 1995-96, 65.51 lakh persons are engaged in weaving and associated activities in the handloom sector. Handicrafts The Handicrafts Sector plays a significant & important role in the countrys economy. It provides employment to a vast segmen t of craftpersons in rural & semi urban areas and generates substantial foreign exchange for the country, while preserving its cultural heritage. Handicrafts have great potential, as they hold the key for sustaining not only the existing set of millions of artisans spread over length and breadth of the country, but also for the increasingly large number of new entrants in the crafts activity. Presently, handicrafts contribute substantially to employment generation and exports. Wool and Woollen Textiles

The wool and woollen textiles industry in the country is basically located in Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, and Gujarat States. A few of the larger units are located in Maharashtra, Punjab, Gujarat, and West Bengal. Around 40% of the woollen units are located in Punjab, 27% in Haryana, 10% in Rajasthan, while the rest of the States account for remaining 23% of the units. India ranks 6th amongst clean wool producer countries and 9th amongst greasy wool producers. Indian wool is almost exclusively of broader micron and used in manufacturing of carpets and rugs. India has 3rd largest sheep population in the world, having 6.15 crores sheep, producing 45 million kg. of raw wool, and accounting for 3.1% of

total world wool production. Out of 45 million kg. of wool produced in the country, about 85% is carpet grade wool, 5% apparel grade, and 10% coarser grade wool for making blankets, etc.

MAKING NAKSHAS (DESIGNS) ON BROCADES

Making of nakshas (designs) forms an important part of brocade weaving. Banaras is the main center where the nakshabandha (designer) tradition prevails. The skill and imagination of nakshabandha plays a prominent part in making of designs. Designs are associated with legends and symbolism. The most popular motifs are drawn from nature. In Banaras, it is said that nakshabandha families were brought to this country during the reign of Muhammed Tughlak (1325-1350 A.D.). They were supreme masters of the art of tying designs into the loom. Local artisans and weavers learned this art from these great craftsmen. Some of these craftsmen were also great poets-perhaps they wove their poetry into their designs. One such renowned poet was Ghias-I-Naqsband, mentioned in Abul Fazl's 'AinI-Akbari'. The nakshas are first worked on paper. This part of the work is called likhai (writing). The nakshabandha then makes a little pattern of it in a framework of cotton threads like a graph. This pattern gives guidance to the working of that design into weaving.

CHANGES IN DESIGNS THROUGH THE CENTURIES

Designs and motifs have undergone changes gradually and imperceptibly. These changes can be traced through paintings made during different periods. Ajanta and Bagh murals show the existence of different techniques of designs and textiles. During the Gupta period (14th century A.D.). Popular designs were formal floral motifs or scrolls entwined with hansas or sinhas -bird and animal depictions. In the 16th century, the old designs were replaced by Persian floral motifs. Akbari paintings show half-blooming flowers, the Jehangir period, full-blown blossom and the Shahjehan period, tiny blossoms with emphasis on the leaves. In the 19th century, with the advent of British rule, there was a drastic change in designs. Some brocades started depicting English wallpaper designs to suit the tastes of the British rulers.