A drive on the wild side

NAMIBIA: A National Parks astonishing wildlife Presents the real africa to

Josie dale.

Zebra, giraffe, springbok, kudu, red hartebeest, impala, gemsbok and blue wildebeest drink their fill. The magic of Africa unfolds, like a living documentary, just metres from our car. Quietly the animals withdraw, and suddenly 50 metres away three adult elephants and a calf appear. Light on their feet for such huge animals, theyre known affectionately as grey ghosts. A loud gurgling, like a toilet flushing, ensues as they suck water into their trunks and transfer it to their mouths. The calf enjoys a muddy wallow, squirting liquid mud at the adults with squeals of glee.

South African bush elephants can reach speeds of 40kmh.

A delightful scene, but this is not a zoo, and the closeness of these seemingly gentle giants is a stark reminder of our vulnerability. South African bush elephants weigh from six to nine tonnes and can reach a top speed of 40kmh. They tower above us and we are anxious to ensure we avoid their path ending up squashed, like road kill, is not part of our itinerary. We were told If you want to see the real Africa go to Etosha, but you must drive yourselves. My husband, Alistair, and I flew to the Namibian capital, Windhoek, collected a small VW Polo rental car and set off on the 600km drive north. Outside the city there is little sign of human habitation, apart from infrequent ramshackle townships. Namibia, once known as South West Africa, is one of the worlds most sparsely populated countries. Sitting between the Kalahari Desert and the Atlantic Ocean, its bordered by Angola, Botswana, Zambia and South Africa. Namibia escaped the clutches of South Africas apartheid government when it was granted independence in 1990. A sealed road stretches ahead through endless brown, tussocky grass and scrub, reminiscent of an alp-less Mackenzie Country. The speed limit, largely ignored by locals, is 120kmh so we make good time. The only hazards encountered on the road are fox terrier-sized dik-dik antelope intent on suicide, and the occasional fussing warthog. Our comfortable chalet at Mokuti Lodge, 2km from Etoshas eastern gate, sports a prominent notice: Please keep your door closed to exclude snakes and scorpions. We follow instructions carefully.

Collapsing in the bar for pre-dinner drinks, we pass a pleasant hour unashamedly eavesdropping on our fellow guests a British tour group with decidedly posh accents, all appropriately attired in their Out of Africa safari suits. Next morning we discover disconcerting evidence of nocturnal visitors in many paw, hoof and slither marks around our chalet. Thankfully there is no sign of the culprits as we head to the lodge for more of Mokutis unique African hospitality. The restaurant provides outdoor tables and breakfast is shared with irresistible begging ground squirrels and persistent hornbills. Etosha National Park, in North-Central Namibia, is approximately 23,000 square kms and along its centre is a 5000 square km saltpan. The parks name means great white place of dry water. Winter is peak viewing time for wildlife because the saltpan is dry and the animals are dependent on the waterholes around its edge. Etosha protects 114 mammal species, 340 bird varieties and a number of reptile and amphibian species. The first day we drive 70km to Halali Rest Camp, stopping at numerous waterholes along the way. The rough roads are unsealed and soon dust permeates everything, including our mouths. We stand on the edge of the saltpans inhospitable white moonscape, fascinated by the watery mirages shimmering in the distance. The surrounding arid scrubby grasslands smell crunchy, and its difficult to imagine how this sunburnt fragile land sustains such large numbers of animals, birds, and reptiles during the dry season.

Inhospitable Etosha saltpan

Constant close-up activity around the waterholes makes moving on difficult we cant miss a thing! The animal kingdom has its own hierarchical rules and species take their allotted place in the queue for water. A family of warthogs stands back patiently, while a herd of zebra drinks greedily. The zebra depart and its the turn of the warthog family cute but ugly creatures with lethal tusks. They look comical running along, bums in the air, with tails pointing skyward.

Traffic is sparse and were frequently the only observers parked at waterholes. This is peak season, but the majority of people appear to travel in organised tour groups allocated a separate area of the Park. We arrive at Halali camp before the sunset gate closure, and head for the bar and a cold beer to wash away the dust. Happily, although our accommodation is basic, it includes a private bathroom. Campsites are available and there are several family groups and young tourists gathered around their tents or motor homes cooking over a braai (barbecue). A buffet restaurant is open for the lazy, or unprepared, like us. After dinner we climb the rocks nearby and settle in with a bottle of South African merlot. The floodlit Moringa waterhole, 30m below, treats us to a constant parade of wildlife throughout the evening. Firstly two grunting white rhino noisily and playfully joust, and aggressively chase animals that dare to approach for water. A herd of thirteen elephant (including two small calves) arrive and spoil their fun. A rhino bellows and snorts, pawing the ground, before charging half-heartedly at the intruders. The rhino then decide discretion is the better part of valour and retreat huffily into the bush. The delightful elephant family enjoy themselves, shamelessly emitting the loudest farts I have ever heard. Subsequent self-satisfied sighs are accompanied by elephantine smiles. The adults have an endearing habit of resting one huge back foot on the other, much like a person crossing their legs. The tiny calves remain close to their protective mothers as the juveniles jostle and skylark like unruly teenagers. The herds sudden, silent departure signals the return of other animals, including jackal, hyena and African wildcat. According to locals, leopards often frequent the waterhole but sadly, not tonight. Dawn brings our last day amongst the park animals, and we set off to drive 70km to Okaukuejo Camp. Waterholes along the way are a magnet to large herds of zebra, gemsbok, impala, springbok and the odd ostrich.

The iconic springbok, clad in their smart reddish/tan, dark brown and white coats, are sociable chaps, communicating by barking. They take off straight-legged, repeatedly bouncing high in the air locals call this pronking (showing off). They can survive without water over the dry season by eating flowers, seeds and leaves of shrubs before dawn. Zebra, with their erect Mohawk-like manes and unique black and white stripes, look angelic but they wield authority over antelope and impala by viciously kicking and biting. A mare and her foal lie fearlessly across the road, forcing Alistair to detour around them.

Zebra rest on the road

My favourite, the elegant giraffe, appears uncharacteristically clumsy when drinking because of his long forelegs. Surprisingly, for such a large animal, they are monarch of animal stop-outs averaging less than two hours sleep per twenty-four hour period.

Our rondavel at Okaukuejo Camp

We arrive at our comfortable Okaukuejo rondavel mid-afternoon and locate the petrol station. Despite the isolation, locals are conversant with the finer things in life. Learning we are Kiwis, enterprising African pump attendant, Albert, cackles delightedly and shakes Alistairs hand vigorously. Ja man, All Blacks best - you send me All Black jersey my size large. He provides his name and address written neatly on a card but no money guess the jersey is to be a present!

In the nineteenth century McKeirnan, an American trader, observed of Etosha All the menageries in the world turned loose would not compare to the sight I saw today. More than 130 years on, we concur. Experiencing Etosha and its wonderful wildlife has been the most enjoyable travel experience of our life. Already we are contemplating delivering Alberts All Black jersey in person.

Photos: Animal images title page by Ute von Ludwiger, remainder Josie Dale