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5/1/13 2:01 PM
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ENERGY INFO
Consulting Services Wind Power The Bottom Line About Wind Turbines Build our 10 foot diameter wind turbine! Otherpower Wind Turbine Users Manual Tilt-up MET tower videos 100-meter tilt-up MET tower Otherpower turbine power curves for Midnite Classic MPPT controller Wind Data Acquisition Example - Southern Indiana, Wireless Wind Turbine Towers Science Fair Wind Generators Our Homebrew Wind Turbine Evolution 7 Foot Diameter Wind Turbine 20 foot diameter wind turbine
para Espaol This is 'part 3' of the project. The goal was to build a simple 17' wind turbine, basically a scaled up version of earlier machines we've built which are very much inspired by Hugh Piggotts 'Axial Flux' wind turbine plans. And, be sure to check out our book Homebrew Wind Power -- it has all the
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17 foot diameter wind turbine Wind Generator Truck Testing The Wood 103 Wind Power Glossary Bicycle Speedometer Anemometer Easter Egg Anemometer Dyno Testing Alternators Older Wind Turbine Projects DanF's Wood A-X Volvo disk brake alternator Induction Motor Conversion Windmill 14 Foot Turbines Low-RPM Brake Disk Alternator 400 watt 2 blade Volvo Disk brake wind turbine 9 foot Diameter Brake Disk Windmill 10 foot Diameter Brake Disk Windmill Old 17 foot wind turbine Old 17 foot page 2 Old 17 foot page 3 Old 17 foot page 4 Series - parallel switch for wind turbine alternators The triplets - 10 foot diameter brake disk wind turbines Old brake disk turbine, no furling The Wind Farm - 10 foot brake disk wind turbines Alternator and Generator Comparison Wind Turbine Concepts Defined and Explained 10 foot diameter brake disk wind turbine Tape Drive Motors for Wind Turbines
Here we're attaching the back magnet rotor to the hub. Again, we have to really be careful around these magnet rotors, the hub - wrenches... anything made of steel or iron is strongly attracted to these magnets. Notice how we're using nuts, and washers to serve as spacers between the magnet rotors. Better would be to machine a spacer, it can take time to get things perfect using nuts and washers.
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Next we grease the wheel bearings, and mount the hub, with the back rotor to the machine. Then we can adjust the bearing and insert the cotter pin into the castle nut that holds it all on the spindle.
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Wind Turbine Disasters Homebrew Wind Power Book Blog Solar Power Hydro Power Engine Power Power Systems Energy Storage Water Pumping Efficient Lighting Conservation Experiments Links
WE SUPPORT
We mount the stator so there's about a 3/32" gap between it and the back magnet rotor.
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WTI Crude Oil
$93.12
0.36%
SOLAR / WIND
Pictured above you can see the 3 jacking screws we use to carefully lower the front magnet rotor into position. The magnet rotors must be aligned, so that wherever we have a N pole on one rotor, there will be an opposing S pole on the other rotor. When we placed the magnets down on the disks, we ground an 'index mark' into the sides of each rotor so that we can be sure to get them together properly.
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A VERY fine book on building your own wind turbine from scratch, with step-by-step instructions. We know, because we wrote it! Buy it here.
LATEST YOUTUBE
80-meter MET tower lift 80-meter MET tower lift 80-meter MET tower Helicopter ride up the Skeena and Slamgeesh rivers more
So here we have a finished machine, except for the wooden parts! At this time we could test it. The cut-in speed is about exactly 75 rpm so all is good! It's pretty impressive how stiff an alternator of this size becomes when you short out all 3 phases. If you spin it up by hand nice and fast... and then short it - there's an impressive flash (like a welder) and it 'bangs' to a dead stop instantly. Lots of fun...
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NAVIGATION
Feed aggregator Pictured above is the tips of the blades, you can see the very simple airfoil. The thickest part of the airfoil is 1/8" as thick as the blade is wide, so at the tips we're 3/4" thick, at the half way point we're about 1.5" thick, and it tapers to maximum thickness of 2" near the root of the blades.
The blades will be sandwiched between two plywood hubs. These hubs are 26" in diameter and made from 3/4" thick Baltic Birch plywood. Baltic Birch plywood is super tough stuff... and it holds up well to the weather. It's much stronger than ordinary 3/4" plywood.
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Here we're assembling the blades. I stained the hubs black and we coated everything with a thick coat of linseed oil. There are 3 bolts through the hub/blade assembly for each blade - so a total of 9 bolts help hold the blades in and squeeze this whole 'sandwich' together. First we assemble it all and just 'snug' the bolts up so that we can still make adjustments to the position of the blades.
</ center> Here George and Scott and measuring tip to tip on the blades to make sure they're positioned properly. Once that's done, we can tighten up all the bolts and put in a bunch of wood screws. On this one, we have 15 wood screws into each side of each blade - through the hubs, for a total of 90 wood screws in the whole assembly. I forgot to get pictures of the tail. The tail is kind of 'arrow shaped' - basicly its about 2 1/2' wide and 5' tall, for about 12 square feet of total area. Its made from very strong 1/4" thick Baltic Birch plywood, which we also stained black and coated with linseed oil. It's bolted onto the tail boom with 4 bolts. So there we have it, a finished machine!
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PAGE 4 PAGE 3 Installation on Alternator and tower and blade assembly raising!
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