Gahwa -- an age old custom

The preparation, serving and drinking of gahwa -- Arabian

coffee -- are each individual rituals derived from Bedouin
hospitality; traditions that are still bound today by the
same ceremony and etiquette which have ruled for
centuries.
According to legend, coffee-drinking began in Arabia
almost 12 centuries ago when a goat herder named
Khalid noticed that while the afternoon sun made him
drowsy, his flock frolicked and gamboled after nibbling at
the berries of a certain evergreen bush. The ingenious
Khalid ground and boiled the agreeable berries and so
invented a phenomenon that has worked its way into the
marrow of everyday life.
The gahwa ritual (pictured) starts when the host places a
set of four coffee pots, called della, next to an open fire.
He pours the coffee beans onto a mahmasa, a shallow,
long-handled iron pan which he holds just above the
flames. He stirs the roasting beans from time to time with
a yad al mahmasa, which is attached by a chain to the
small pan. When the beans are cooked they are left to
cool before being pulverized with a pestle in a mortar
called mahbash. When pounding the beans it is necessary
to strike the side of the mortar occasionally with the
pestle to free the grounds from sticking together. This
noise is considered music and the guests should listen
carefully and show appreciation of the host's artistic
expression.
The largest della contains the coffee grounds from
previous days, so water is poured into the second largest
pot, to which the freshly ground coffee is added and then
boiled over the fire. Meanwhile, the host pounds the
cardamom seeds, and sometimes a pinch of saffron, in
the mahbash. These spices go into the third della which is
then filled with the freshly brewed coffee from the second
pot and brought to the boil again. Finally the gahwa is
poured into the fourth and smallest pot ready to serve.
It is always the host's privilege to serve his guests,
although a servant may assist by holding the tray of
small, china cups without handles. He may pour himself a
small cup first in order to taste it, but strict rules of
etiquette are observed in the serving order. When only
men are present, the most important person in the room
is served first. Age takes precedence if there is some
doubt as to rank. Until a few years ago men were always
served before women, but today that custom is often
reversed, particularly if Westerners are among the
guests.
The cups are only half filled, but guests may have several
refills. It is polite to accept an odd number of cups -- one,
three or five. When the guest has finished he should
jiggle the empty cup from side to side, indicating to the
host that he has had sufficient. To refuse the first round is
considered not only bad manners but also an insult to the
host.
Gahwa is never sweetened with sugar. Instead, fresh
dates are offered as the standard accompaniment to the
aromatic brew. The papery-skinned fingers of fruit contain
55% natural sugar which refresh and sweeten the palate
between each sip of gahwa.
The proportion of coffee and cardamom in recipes for
making gahwa varies considerably from region to region.
The Saudia Arabian Airline offers its passengers a blend
made from 25 grams of ground Arabic coffee, 35 grams of
crushed cardamom and 1 litre of water. To be served a
cup of this unique beverage is more than just
refreshment, it is unfailing proof that the guest is still
revered and honored in Saudi Arabia. In offering a cup of
gahwa the host is saying Ahlan Wa Sahlan, welcome.