What is Coated Denim One reader has asked about coated denim.

Such jeans have a coating that feels li ke as if the cotton of the denim is waxed. If black in color, the jeans shines u p like leather pants. The coating is generally done using pigment, acrylic or po lyurethane coating. Pigment coating provides the denim a new look and experience after every wash. Acrylic and PU, however, act as a transparent coating. This p rotects the fading properties. It also gives the fabric a protective breathable layer with stain resistant properties. The luster and feel of the fabric are als o improved. Resin Coating is generally done with the help of wooden handle. A ru bber squeezer is used to extract resin under pressure to form leather effect on denim garment. It is a neutral ( pH 7) cream-colored paste that is miscible in c old water and resistant to heat upto 200 degree Celcius. It is self catalysed an d chlorine resistant. The coating can be applied on the garment by screen, brush or knife edge. Machine coating is also possible. After applying coating the fab ric is dried and cured at 150 degree Celcius of 5 minutes. Normally the coating are permanent in nature and able to sustain multiple launderings. Critical Process Parameters- Denim Manufacturing Critical Process Parameters- Denim Manufacturing Warping: Machine Speed m/min= 6 00+-50 Tension on individual thread ( cN) 90+-30 Warping breaks ( Avg/10000m/400 ends) < = 0.2 Dyeing-cum-Sizing

1. Machine Speed = 30+-2 2. Size Viscosity ( Flow seconds) = 6+-1 3. Size Add on ( %)= 6+-2 4. Breaking Force (gf) sized yarn = >=1100 5. Tenacity ( cN/tex) ( s ized yarn) = >13 6. Elongation ( %) of sized yarn >= 4.5 Finishing Quality Width(cm) Shrinkage ( %) Skew ( %) 7x6 151+-1 15+-1 5-11 7x6 149+-1 14.5 +-1 5-11 7x7 151+-1 15.5+-1 5-11 7x9 151+-1 16+-1 5-11 7x6 151+-1 14+-1 5-11 Finished Properties of some Common Denim Fabrics New Page 1 Ideal Weight Warp Count (Washed) Weft Count (Washed) EPI ( Unwashed) PPI ( Unwas hed) Wt ( Oz./ sq.Yd) Rubbing Fastness ( Dry) Fastness to Laundering 14.5 Oz/Sq yd 6.9 +-0.6 6.0+-0.4 70+-2 43+-2 14.2 2-3 2 13.75 oz/sq yard 6.9+-0.5 6.9+-0.5 70+-2 43+-2 13.4 2-3 2 12.5 oz/sq yard 6.9+-0.5 9.0+-0.5 70+-2 43+-2 12.2 2-3 2 Hard waste % in denim industry Hard Waste % in Denim Industry Warping--> 0.7% Unsized Yarn--> 0.4% Sized Yarn-> 0.6% Fringe--> 1.7% All these above are percentage of Hacoba Production

Knotting + Reknotting waste --. 0.7% Extra ends--> 0.7% All the above are as per centage of loom shed production Total Hard Waste= 4.8% shrinkage norms for 14.5 oz. denim Length wise shrinkage--> after 3rd wash---> -1.2% to -2.8% Width wise shrinkage --> after 3rd wash--> -2.5% to -3.5% Receipes for different shades of Denim Receipes For Different Shades on Denim A) Black-on-Black Black-on-Blue Recipe Li quid Sulphast Black= 200 gpl Sodium Sulphide= 20 gpl Sandozol HSI = 10 gpl Soda Ash= 10 gpl B) Blue-on- Blue Receipe Liquid Sulphar Navy Blue = 100 gpl Liquid S ulphast Black= 50 gpl Sodium Sulphide= 20 gpl Sandozol HSI= 10 gpl Soda Ash= 10 gpl C) Reactive Series

Receipe 01) Ramazol Turquoise Blue G = 110 gpl Urea= 100 gpl Swanic 6L= 10 gpl 0 2) Sodium Silicate= 250 gpl Caustic Soda = 10 gpl Ratio of 01) and 02) = 3:1 D) Ramazol Coffee Brown G Receipe 01) Coffee Brown G = 100gpl Urea = 100 gpl Swanic 6L= 10 gpl 02) Sodium Silicate = 250 gpl Caustic Soda= 10 gpl Ratio of 01) and 02) = 3:1 E) Ramazol Parrot Green Receipe 01) Ramazol Turquoise Blue G = 90 gpl Ramazol Yellow FG = 40 gpl Urea= 100 gpl Swanic 6L= 10 gpl 02) Sodium Silicate = 250 gpl Caustic Soda = 10 gpl Ratio of 01) and 02) = 3:1 F) Ramazol Blue Receip e 01) Ramazol Black B = 70 gpl

Urea = 100 gpl Swanic 6L = 10 gpl 02) Sodium Silicate = 250 gpl Caustic Soda = 1 0 gpl Ratio of 01) and 02) = 3:1 Integrated Finishing for Denim- my Notes Preshrinking of Textile Fabrics- or compressive shrinkage Shrinkage can be - Nat ural Wash shrinkage- When the fibres swell in the presence of water and tensions induced during Spinning, weaving and processing of fabrics - Compressive or Mec hanical Shrinkage It can be compared to the action of press. The effectiveness o f ironing depends upon: Temperature of the press Amount of Moisture present in t he fabrics Amount of Physical Pressure Applied Time duration of application of p ress. In case of pressing, the new memory is set by drying, in compressive shrin king, it is the palmer unit which dries the fabric, thereby setting its new memo ry Amount of preshrinkage left in the fabric is adjusted by varying the relative speed of the palmer to that of the rubber belt unit. Temperature The temperatur e affects in the following way the various components of the palmer/ compressive shrinkage unit - Rubber Belt Cylinder o Lower Temperature- Fabric appearance is affected- Sharp crease o Higher temperature- rubber belt life is shortened

- Palmer Cylinder o If lower temperature: No dry Stuff; Elongation of preshrunk fabric- also stretching of inspection and rolling operation. o The purpose of pa lmer cylinder is to dry a fabric to a level of about 4% relative humidity. If th ere is higher temperature, there is elongation with natural moisture regain. - T emperature of fabric as it enters rubber belt unit If properly controlled, then high production. Most fabrics will shrink more easily if heated before entering the rubber belt unit. Moisture - 100% cotton denim may require as much as 14% mo isture to permit effective pre shrinkage - Moisture must be uniform thoroughout the length, width, and depth of fabric How to ensure moisture uniformity - Use o f heated cans - Apply needed moisture of fabric vial cooling water applied to ru bber belt surface. But it also depends upon the condition of the rubber belt. Fr eshly grinded rubber belt carry more water water removal roll of the rubber belt unit Penetration of moisture applied to the fabric is very important. If insuff icient moisture Innermost dry layers of yarn will act like spring and cause the f abric to elongate. Pressure Maximum amount of rubber belt compression should not be greater than 25% of the actual belt thickness. More heavy the fabric, more p otential, more compression will it need d. Duration If above three factors are m aintained and we have a sufficiently large palmer unit, we can compress durably a fabric to its zero potential. Its important to use cooling cans at the exit of t he palmer

Fabric Scray: Use of exit scray allows additional time for fabric cooling as it is impossible to roll fabrics without the use of lengthwise tension. Guider: The function of the guider is to keep the fabric to its full width. Skyer: It is a sort of time delay device allowing time for moisture to penetrate into the fabri c without the need to increase the machine length. Heated Can: purpose: it is to drive the surface moisture into the fabric and to preheat the fabric. Palmer Fu nction Dry the fabric and set shrinkage Adjust the shrinkage To compare incoming and outgoing fabric tension and determine fabric shrinkage Less dense the felt, greater is the drying capacity Exit Scary - To relax and cool; - To prevent hot stop marks. It increases the rubber belt life - To facilitate shrink environmen t Why Wet Finishing for Denim - Moisture doesnt penetrate in the core- in foam fi nishing - Its better to shrink fabric with a low moisture content than those whi ch are bone dried In integrated Machine Padder- wetting - squeezing the moisture - application of heat Once it is shrunk the fabric is thoroughly dried by palme r

- Hand can be adjusted in padder use of starch, lubricant - Width can be control led by adjusting tension between the padder and dry can - Higher speed - Even ne ss of the moisture content- Residual moisture after leaving palmer should be 4% Drying depends upon the pressure of the steam, m/c speed, size of palmer , const ruction of felt Rubber Belts: 36-40 deg. Shore Harder- crack and lesser shrinkag e capacity Softer- require replacement frequently Thickness- 67mm Thicker- more grinding - cracking - more wear and tear to machine parts - energy consumption R ubber belt: Inside circumference- 3.962m - Rubber surface width should exceed fa bric width by at least 6 and preferably 8 How to increase the life of the Rubber b elt - Nip pressure used on rubber belt should be optimum - Over tension in the r ubber belt should be avoided - Belt should be run with sufficient cooling water in its interior and exterior surface - Belt should be run with lowest possible o perating temperature 115 deg140deg - Frequency of grinding of the rubber belt sh ould be optimum ie should be enough and at sufficient depth. - Grind when densit y of belt surface has varied by 10% of its original hardness - Water removal rol l pressure adjustment is very important to insure max. belt life. Water acts not only to cool the rubber, but is also a lubricant

- Product machine stops or hot stops should be avoided to the maximum extent possi ble. One of the best ways to eliminate is to install scrays at the entrance and exit of the shrinking machine. - Foreign objects should be avoided. Knot size fo r joining fabrics should be smaller. - Regular cleaning and inspection of rubber belt. - Use correct belt width - Be careful during installation and maintenance of rubber belt, avoid use of chemicals. Function of Felt Palmer - It is require d to maintain the preshrunk fabrics in intimate uniform contact with the surface of the heated cylinder in order to ensure uniform smooth drying of the fabric ne w dimensionally stable memory. - Fabric drying depends upon, palmer cylinder tem perature, shrinking machine speed and permeability of the drying felt. - It help s in precise fabric shrinking adjustment. It acts as a fabric puller to precisel y control tension on the fabric - Provides a pressing and calendaring effect on the preshrunk fabric Making Fancy Denim- Amsler Slub, Multicount and Multitwist Yarn Most of the Cross-Hatch Denim is produced on Amsler Slub or multi-count yarn. He re are some examples:

Amsler is a swiss fancy-yarn machine manufacturing company. The fabrics produced of the yarn are becoming synonymous with the name of the company What is Amsler Slub Amsler yarn can be made on open end or on a ring spinning. Mostly amsler slub ef fect in denim is produced on open end. Thus this is an attachment to open end sp inning that allows slub and multi-twist effects at less cost than true ring spun yarn. The basic problems in producing slub yarn can be enumerated as follows ( source): 1. Weak Places in the Yarn: The thick place in the yarn is followed imm ediately by a thin place, rather than by a simple return to the basic yarn count being spun. This, in turn, creates a weak place in the yarn. 2. Increase in Bas ic Yarn twist: Increased length of the slub leads to the increased twists of the basic yarn. It is necessary to adjust the slub length to avoid basic yarn twist exceeding critical twist. Twists in every section of the slub yarn are in inver sely proportion to the square of the linear density of the corresponding section .

The Principle of Amsler effect goes like this: The Normal yarn is formed from th e basic machine speed. There is a microprocessor controlled servomotor that over feeds with a pre-programmed textile ramp. In case of ring frame, the servo drive system is connected to the back and middle roller via a special gear box. Only at the time of slub formation the servo motor starts and additional speed is giv en to the drafting system. Thus the normal yarn formation is not disturbed which results in making a yarn without weak spots. In case of open end yarn the princ iple is the same, ie. excess feed which can be explained with this figure: Multi-Count Effect

Multi-count yarn, becoming so popular in denim fabrics is produced by a special device. This effect is characterized by having controlled count changes in lengt h ( as short as 2 meters) while maintaining a constant twist level. Multi-Twist Effect Multi-twist yarns are those that feature a constant count but have different lev els inside yarns. These twist levels create variations in the yarn's dye intake thus creating a special fabric appearance. How to Stonewash Better How to Stonewash Better Traditionally Natural pumice stone is used in denim wash ing process. It has the following disadvantages: 1. Residual pumice is difficult to remove from washed fabric/garment. 2. There is always a danger of damage to the equipment by overload of tumbling stones and material.This can also clog the drains and sewer lines. Thus enzymes like cellulase are used to achieve the des irable appearance and soft handle for the fabric. The problem with using enzymat ic treatment is that the removed indigo dye can be redposited on the white yarn of the denim fabric. this process

is called back staining and it can mar the look of garment. Industrially cellula se is used along with Pumice stone for stone washing. The cellulase can be at ph =7, when it is called the neutrual cellulase or at a pH of 5.5, when it is calle d the acidic cellulase. In general the cellulase added is for 60min at 55 deg C as a percentage of the weight of the garment. It can be 3%, 6%, 9% or 12% depend ing upon the appearance required. Pumice stone is generally taken as equal in we ight that of the garment. According to a study , the best stone washing ( as mea sured by the lightness of the sample is achieved for treatment with Neutral cell ulases with pumice stone, acid cellulases with pumice stone, neutral cellulases, acid cellulases and pumice stone, in that order. In the same order tensile stre ngth of the sample decreases. However, degree of back staining increases in the order of treatment with pumice stone, acid cellulases, neutral cellulases, acid cellulases with pumice stone and neutral cellulases with pumice. which means a b alance needs to be achieved- and where the effort to increase one desirable lead s to increase in another undesirable one. Manufacturing Process of Denim

Manufacturing of Denim For manufacturing Denim and Grey Fabric, the process is s ame up to the level of weaving, but in case of Denim Fabric, dyeing is done at t he stage of sizing where as for Grey Fabric it depends upon the finished product . The details of each process are given below: 1. Fabric Weaving a. Grey Yarn on Cones Normally yarns received for weaving in cone forms are either from ring sp inning or from open end spinning in single or double fold as required. For weavi ng, yarn used is categorised into: o Warp yarn o Weft yarn Normally for Weaving, yarn used as warp should be sufficiently strong to withstand stress and strains exerted during weaving operations. Hence they are having Count Strength Product (CSP) and further sized to increase its strength. The weft yarn is directly used on weaving machines and in some cases, if required, is rewound also so as to en hance its performance in weaving. b. Warping on Sectional/ Direct Warping The wa rp yarn is required to be fed into a sheet form to the weaving machines. At warp ing, the individual cones are put into the creel (the number of cones depends up on fabric construction) and yarn from individual cones is pulled together in she et form, wound on a barrel called warping beams (for Direct warping) or on weavi ng beams (for Sectional Warping). Normally if warp sheet is with patterns of dif ferent coloured

yarns it is processed on sectional warping machine. c. Sizing of yarn in Set/ Be am to Beam Position The object of Sizing is to improve the strength of yarn by c hemically binding the fibres with each other and also improve upon its friction resistance capacity by chemically coating the surface of yarn/fibres. Further, n umber of threads in warpers beam sheet is very less against number of threads re quired in whole width of fabric. Hence multiplication of sheets by drawing yarns together from many warp beams and again making one sheet is also performed on s izing machine. On sizing, normally, 8-12 % size material on warp thread is appli ed. This improvement in strength and frictional resistance characteristic of war p yarn is essential because during weaving, yarn has to undergo severe strain & stress as well as frictional operations. d. Drawingin Weaving is basically interl acement of two sets i.e. warp and weft threads in desired sequence and pattern. To obtain this interlacement, warp yarn sheet is bifurcated & opened in the form of two layers/ sheet and weft thread is inserted between so opened two warp she ets. This operation is called shedding. to perform shedding the warp yarn needs to be passed through heald eyes of the heald shafts, this operation is called as drawingin. e. Beam Gaiting or Knotting on Loom The drawn weavers beams are fixe d on weaving machines, threads are tied and heald shafts are coupled. This opera tion is called Beam Gaiting. If undrawn warp threads are directly knotted to the threads of finished beams, it is called Knotting. These operations are essentia l because normally weavers beam can carry only certain length of warp sheet on i t and when so woven, whole length is converted to the fabric by weaving machine. Further warp length is required to be fed which can be done by knotting or gait ing other beams on weaving machine. f. Weaving As stated earlier, weaving is int erlacing two sets of yarn and making fabric. One set is called warp thread which is in sheet form, the other one is called weft thread which is inserted between two layers of warp sheet by means of a suitable carrier i.e. Shuttle, Projectil e, Rapier, Air current, Water current, etc. Depending upon the type of the weavi ng machines. The different types of technologies available for weaving machines are briefly explained as below: o Conventional Shuttle Weaving System by Ordinar y Looms or Automatic Looms.

o Shuttle less Weaving System by Airjet /Waterjet/Rapier/Projectile Shuttle loom is a conventional Technology with much less production on account of slow speed and excessive wear and tear of machinery. This shuttle loom technology has now become obsolete. Denim is woven through Shuttle less Weaving System by using 96 ZAX-e Type Tsodakoma Corporations Airjet looms or rapier looms or projectile loom s. These looms are distinguished by weft insertion method, which is briefly disc ussed hereunder. Airjet Looms These types of looms adopt the latest development in Weaving Technology where weft insertion is done with the help of compressed a ir. A very high weft insertion rate up to 1800 metre per minute is achieved. Com pared to rapier and projectile looms, these looms are less versatile but are eco nomical and are used in mass textile production unit like denim. Finishing a. Gr ey Fabric The finally woven fabric or Grey Fabric, as it is popularly called, wo und on a cloth roll is taken out from weaving machines at certain intervals and checked on inspection machines for possibilities of any weaving fault. If such f aults are seen anywhere in fabric during inspection, certain corrective steps ar e taken at weaving, warping, sizing, etc so that they can be minimised in subseq uent product. This is a quality control exercise. b. Denim Fabric Denim Fabrics woven of 100% cotton would be very strong and durable. Traditionally Blue Denim is warp faced cotton fabric with 3 x 1 twill construction with warp being dyed i n a solid colour and weft left un-dyed. The look and quality of the Denim Fabric shall improve after dyeing, the process of which differs from plant to plant. N ormally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing. Th e dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the sizing stage. Generally there are two m ost popular methods of dyeing Denim Fabric. They are: o Rope Dyeing o Sheet Dyei ng A company can adopt any of the methods. In countries like India Sheet Dyeing Method is commonly used for manufacture of its Denim Fabrics, which has followin g advantages over Rope Dyeing Method: o The technology is less capital intensive . o The technology is a proven one. o The cost of production is lower.

o The process time is lower. o The Sheet Dyeing machines are very easy to operat e. The only defect in Sheet dyeing is that their is a problem of center to selve dge shade variation. c. Sheet Dyeing Process This process eliminates a few inter mediate processes of the rope dyeing. The yarn sheet is washed with chemicals su ch as caustic and washing soda and after squeezing the excess water; the yarn sh eet is allowed to pass through Dyeing Troughs one time for oxidation and develop ment of dye on yarn. After dyeing, the dyed yarn is washed again with fresh wate r for twothree times and finalIy squeezed before allowing it to pass through six drying cylinders. The dyed yarn enters the starching device and sizing is done. After sizing, the sized warp beam goes for weaving. After weaving, the woven De nim Fabrics goes for various finishing processes consisting of brushing, singein g, washing, impregnation for dressing and drying. Brushing and singeing should e liminate impurities and help to even the surface of the fabric. Dressing regulat es the hand and rigidity of the fabric while compressive shrinking regulates its dimensional stability. Even today Denim Fabric without Indigo Dyeing is not cal led authentic Denim. Initially when Denim Fabric entered the fashion market, Den im manufacturers were using Natural Indigo Dye, which was costly and giving a na tural finish. Though Synthetic Indigo Dye has gradually replaced Natural Indigo Dye, some unorganised manufacturers still prefer the latter and attract premium after branding them Natural Dye Used. d. Making-Up Weaving of fabrics on such mult i sizes is not economical, hence a standard width fabrics is then sent to making up. Fabrics are cut into the desired width as per size required on this machine . Denim Fabric and Grey Fabric are thoroughly checked for various types of defec ts such as: o Weaving Defects Uneven Dyeing o Bleaching and Dyeing Defect o Oil Stain o Patches Here the final product is categorised quality-wise. The products then found okay are segregated and sent to packaging department whereas defecti ve ones are sent for correction. After inspection, the sets are wrapped with pol ythene covers and sent for despatch as per buyers specifications. Despatch

Rolls and sets so formed and packed as per buyers requirements are then sent for final despatches. Proposed Inspection Process for Indigo Dyed Denim * A four point system can be adopted, with 9 qualities ( from 9 to 1). The point distribution is as follows: upto 3"= 1 point 3-6"= 2 point 6-9"= 3 points 9" an d above= 4 points Any defect across full width = 4 point All the above defects m ay be length or width wise. Length wise one course or fine ends/ up to one meter =4 Starting mark (across the width)=4 Cuttable Defects -moire - continuous slub or slubbing weft - thinck end more than one meter - major shade variation -burnt selvedge - blanket impression -width variation -Jala-jerky-chira-wrong drawn- f loat-snarls-missing ends- more warp breaks- patti-holes-cuts-sever temple markmore pick findings in short length, double pick -Slack and tight ends >1m * From qualities 3-9, only 2 pieces in a single roll are allowed and no piece should b e less than 30 meters. The qualities Criterian can be defineds as follows: 9--> 2 shades allowed, allow 20 points per linear meter which no greater than 2 to 3 4 points defects 8--> 3 shades are allowed, allow 36 points per linear meter no greater than

4, 4 point defects 7--> same as 8 but here we allow upto 5 shades 6--> Allow 72 points per linear meter, upto 3 shades -no greater than 5 to 6 , 4 point defects 5--> same as 6, but 5 shades are allowed. 4--> points should not be greater tha n 72, any number of shades, any number of 4 point defects. We do not allow patta ( width wide strips) 3--> Same as 4, we can allow patta 2--> same as 3, 5 piece s are allowed ( every piece 10-30 meters each) 1--> any continuous defect is all owed ( pack the piece less than 1 meter) Shade gradation can be Dark Shade--> D+ Normal Shade --> D Light Shade --> DRelation between Manual and "l a b" grading system l, a, b values D- = 554,654,655 D= 454,555,656 D+= 455,456,556 Tolerance for l a b values--> L = +-0.5, a = +/- 0.5, b= +/- 0.5