Professional Documents
Culture Documents
FALL.WINTER 2014.15
CONTENTS
03
ornamentation of the Far East and wholesomeness of midcentury Americana piece together for a subtle twist on the past. A new DRESS CODE is enforced, mixing old and new, feminine and masculine.
istory repeats itself in a modern yet romanticized renaissance of early COLONIAL LIFE, Parisian art deco, reigning Russian monarchs, and classic heritage. Romantic dances of the BALLET RUSSE allure and harken back to the beginning of the century. The hazy hardships of the Dust Bowl,
COLONIAL LIFE
04
BALLET RUSSE
32
DRESS CODE
58
Antiqued and aged lilacs, pewters, whisper grays and moss look wistful and soft. A deep burnished range looks rough and rugged and harkens back to when the West was won.
Rose-hued light permeates a dusty 1920s boudoir setting. Sophisticated tones of olive, lavender and copper evoke the intrigue of a rendezvous at dusk.
A retro uniform vibe plays up the nostalgia through active-inspired aesthetics Homogenized looks speak to the status quo in deep and somber burgundy, evergreen, hazel and mulberry.
COLONIAL LIFE
SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDS
NATURALLY SYNTHETIC
Renowned as artful manipulations of material, the figurative sculptures of Anna Gillespie are beautifully elemental. Yet the Somerset-based sculptor doesnt just create such art -- she creates nature. The combination of collected acorn caps or beechnut casings with those crafted from bronze and stone epitomizes that which is naturally artificial. The simulation of nature through synthetic material creates an intriguing compromise.
GAME OF THRONES
Returning for its third season, the HBO award-winning series Game of Thrones masterfully combines elements of old world mysticism with territorial claim. Echoing messages of colonialism, the fight for land interweaves several plots while displaying a visual feast for the eyes. The imaginative costumes and scenic design are already spilling over into runway looks, street style ensembles and interior design.
HISTORY REVEALED
Running until May of 2013, the MET exhibit, Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, provides an in-depth look into some of the most intricately constructed garments depicted in infamous Manets, Monets and Zolas. Side by side for the first time, works of art are dramatically displayed next to the actual garments as to amplify not just how accurately they were portrayed, but the involvement behind the historical clothes.
04
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
05
An unfamiliar world is discovered through curiosity and exploration. A new FRONTIER of settlers and progressive thinkers uncovers alternative lifestyles, and a melting pot of the old and new comes to a boil. Cultural diffusion allows for idea sharing and adaptation among hard working sharecroppers, rustic farmers, ornamented conquistadors, and early American PIONEERs. Daring new flourishes in dress create distinction among the ranks and establish a visual class system. From a simple agrarian lifestyle to the entirely outfitted and adorned, colonial looks span from the peasant to the puritan.
COLONIAL LIFE
FRONTIER
COLONIAL LIFE Antiqued and aged lilacs, pewters, whisper grays and moss look wistful and soft. A deep burnished range looks rough and rugged and harkens back to a colonized world.
PIONEER
06
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
07
FRONTIER
Arid landscapes produce baked and parched color. An agrarian aesthetic sets the stage for an old Spaghetti Western.
HOME ON THE RANGE
07
PG.10
COLONIAL LIFE
02
PLYMOUTH ROCK
01
PG.12
08
COUNTRY BUMPKIN
06
PG.14
10
OREGON TRAIL
14
PG.16
13
11
18
08
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
09
FRONTIER
Rugged agrarian cloth has a rough and natural hand. Time-eroded and ancient textiles feel old as the hills. Thick knit bundles of boucl, mohair, alpaca and hide look rustic yet rich.
RUGGED KNITS
1. space-dye boucl 2. one-ply thick and thin yarn 3. mohair/silk 4. alpaca/wool 5. mohair/wool/polyamide
10
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
11
PLYMOUTH ROCK
FRONTIER
Worn and weathered twill, moleskin, and shearling evoke a foreign colonial mentality. Durable workwear fabrics for labor-intensive days get down and dirty and exemplify the settlers lifestyle.
COUNTRY BUMPKIN
FRONTIER
Handicraft twists on classic ditsy, mini check, and micro calico possess a colloquial handmade charm. Traditional pastoral basics look faded and slightly delicate. Teastained grounds and crinkled textures feel homespun and unique.
OREGON TRAIL
FRONTIER
Utilitarian canvas, chambray and modal are put to work in functional and coated finishes. Drab grays paint a picture of live-off-the-land austerity. The American Dream gets pursued in sensible workwear layers.
FRONTIER
18
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
19
PIONEER
Imperial settlers colonize and live by the land. Garnished and adorned, a nouveau riche mindset adds flourish to the countryside.
OLD COUNTRY
03
PG.20
COLONIAL LIFE
02
GENTLEMANS LEAGUE
01
PG.22
04
HIGH SOCIETY
05
PG.24
09
GOLD RUSH
17
PG.26
15
16
12
20
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
21
OLD COUNTRY
PIONEER
Coat-weight heavy woolens have a tactile hand. Rural touches like basket weave and hemp yarns feel old and natural. Traditional chevrons and checks are surprisingly revamped in bonded technical combinations.
HEAVY WOOLEN
1. needlebonded chevron/check 2. handloom effect 3. basket weave 4. hopsack canvas 5. hemp and coarse yarn 6. washed wool
22
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
23
GENTLEMANS LEAGUE
PIONEER
Classic menswear suiting textiles evoke a bespoke, made-to-measure allure. Attention to detail and crafted qualities like clips and yarn dyes lend an ornate feeling to the conventional pinstripe, herringbone and plaid.
HIGH SOCIETY
PIONEER
Tea time-ready chiffon, taffeta and jacquard look dainty and light. Ginger grounds against delicate roses, and fanciful cinnamon colored tapestry florals have subtle elements of ornamentation and antiqued surface sheen.
SOPHISTICATED UNDERPINNING
1. sheer crepe 2. fine tussore 3. printed chiffon 4. tencel/nylon voile 5. gassed mercerized cotton 6. jacquard and clips 7. silk satin 8. silk cloque
26 Colonial Life Colonial Life 27
GOLD RUSH
PIONEER
Luxury goes for the gold in elaborate European-inspired mixes. Opulent embellishments and embroidery adorn the surfaces of burnouts, brocades and other indulgent fabrications. Metallic sheen is embedded into rich, plush surfaces.
DECADENT DRESSING
1. wool taperstry jacquards 2. silk matelass 3. moir taffetas 4. silk messaline 5. laser burnout 6. gold embroidery 7. metallic brocade
28 Colonial Life Colonial Life 29
PIONEER
30
Colonial Life
Colonial Life
31
BALLET RUSSE
SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDS
MODERN ANTIQUES
High-tech 3-D printing is now being used to put a little old fashioned charm back into innovation. The Smart Replicas project by Dutch designer Maaike Roozenburg recreates centuries old antiques and relics in exact likeness, so much so that they can actually replace the real objects in museums. The project will enable smart phone interaction with the antiques and will go into prototype testing in late 2013.
SIDEWALK CHALK
The chalk medium is no longer limited to scribbles and doodles. The old childhood game of sidewalk chalk gets a sophisticated and artistic update thanks to artist Francois Pelletier. Incredibly achieving the likeness of famous works of art, Pelletier carefully transfers oil paintings stroke by stroke in chalk on to the street, viewable to passersby and vulnerable to stomping feet. Making it no longer necessary to view in a gallery, pictured here is the chalk masterpiece of La Treille by William-Adolphe Bouguereau.
32
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
33
BALLET RUSSE
Romantic gestures and exotic treasures fuse together for an elegant assembly of eclectic worldliness. Blurred and hazed color looks subdued and alluring. French coquettes and showgirls primp and pamper in dim lit boudoirs. Dainty doilies and dripping beads adorn sophisticated mademoiselles and naive LOLITAs head to toe. Enticing folkloric fantasies of the Far East conjure up a cultured longing for the foreign. Overly ornamented takes on bohemian style manifest in luxurious color and fabric. A trip on the ORIENT EXPRESS inspires, intrigues and infatuates.
LOLITA
BALLET RUSSE Rose-hued light permeates a dusty 1920s boudoir setting. Sophisticated tones of olive, lavender and copper evoke the intrigue of a rendezvous at dusk.
ORIENT EXPRESS
34
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
35
LOLITA
French coquettes and expert seductresses appear as damsels in distress. Poetic pastels and rich vegetable dyes spark another Renaissance.
DAMSEL IN DISTRESS
19
PG.38
BALLET RUSSE
20
LA VIE EN ROSE
21
PG.40
22
FORTUNE TELLER
23
PG.42
24
25
26
27
28
36
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
37
DAMSEL IN DISTRESS
LOLITA
Debauchery unfolds around a 1920s boudoir setting where waif-like flapper girls lay in wait. Tender floral satin, Chanel tweeds, luscious velvet, and glimmering voile effuse a romantic and alluring aura.
LA VIE EN ROSE
LOLITA
Scenes from a French foreign film play out in dusky cosmetic shades. Ultra feminine lingerie-inspired pleats, embroidery and shimmer look dainty and fragile. Seeing the world through rose-colored lenses casts an entrancing view of double knits, tulle and brocade.
FORTUNE TELLER
LOLITA
A flare for the theatric culminates in an oracles premonition of a blooming, mysterious future. Hazy, dusty hues look mystical and Old World in deluxe velvet, chunky tweed, lightweight/pajama-weight geo jacquard, and lustrous chiffon.
LOLITA
44
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
45
ORIENT EXPRESS
Rich and exotic colors dance and swirl around intricate tile patterns, forgotten empires, folkloric wallpaper and lavish tapestries.
THE SILK ROAD
26
PG.48
BALLET RUSSE
27
29
MADAME BUTTERFLY
30
PG.52
32
MOULIN ROUGE
33
PG.54
34
35
36
46
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
47
ORIENT EXPRESS
Far Eastern riches have travelled great distances to pepper into a worldly assortment. An exotic appeal is peaked by handicraft stitching and appliqus, glossy matelass, hefty upholstery brocades, and royal ottoman jacquard.
48
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
49
FOLK LURE
ORIENTAL EXPRESS
Ornamental and over-the-top surfaces add shinning facets and places of interest in a folkloric story. Gleaming foil printing on velvet, luxe jacquard and exotic tapestries promises a glamorous and foreign journey.
50
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
51
MADAME BUTTERFLY
ORIENT EXPRESS
An eclectic fusion of Asian and Byzantine flourishes comes together in a rush of Old World fantasy. Geisha house kimonos, Oriental-inspired silk brocade and Eastern relief jacquard depict a stunning scene from a tragic opera.
MOULIN ROUGE
ORIENTAL EXPRESS
A theatric display of provocative satin, alluring metallic jacquard and opulent lasercut leather tells a timeless tale of Parisian promiscuity. Fanciful foulards and eccentric diamond quilts leave much to the imagination.
ORIENTAL EXPRESS
56
Ballet Russe
Ballet Russe
57
DRESS CODE
SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDS
VINTAGE TECH
The Polaroid camera has long been a symbol for vintage, obsolete technology. The photosharing app Instragram even borrowed one incarnation for their logo. Yet the new Socialmatic camera goes a step further with this retro approach to tech, actually implementing a Polaroid design that simultaneously speaks to the vintage quality and instant gratification of the Polaroid camera, while enabling it with Instagram-sharing web access.
SOCCKET TO ME
The New York start-up Uncharted Play has recently decided to go to market with the innovative mini generator that is Soccket. Treated as a soccer ball, the more you kick this technologically enhanced ball the more electricity you generate, converting play into power. Originally envisioned to aid Third World countries, the socially conscious soccer ball unites athleticism and innovation for the common good.
58
Dress Code
Dress Code
59
Coordinated attire and ensembles look to the past for a modern makeover. Minimal masculinity feels sober y e t n e w. C l a s s i c h e r i t a g e l o o k s , competitive activewear, and scholarly collegiate ideas are revamped through nostalgic and vintage notions. Iconic tried and true looks emerge as the reigning CHAMPION and are the height of sophisticated styling. An understood status quo amplifies the expected code of dress. Pre-ordained rules and regulations governing dress are upheld by ACADEMY standards and preserved through time. Discreet homogenized looks are able to blend in while standing out.
DRESS CODE
CHAMPION
DRESS CODE A retro uniform vibe plays up the nostalgia through active-inspired aesthetics. Homogenized looks speak to the status quo in somber burgundy, evergreen and hazel.
ACADEMY
60
Dress Code
Dress Code
61
CHAMPION
Traditional Americana prep gets a technological twist through subtle active-inspired details. Brights combine with neutrals for a casual statement.
OLD SCHOOL
37
PG.64
DRESS CODE
38
HONORS SOCIETY
39
PG.66
40
THE A-TEAM
31
PG.68
03
BADGE OF HONOR
04
PG.70
45
34
47
62
Dress Code
Dress Code
63
OLD SCHOOL
CHAMPION
Functional fabrics get a classic twist that hides their practicality in a modernized take on the age old uniform. Double-faced preppy plaid is paired with bonded backing. Unlikely luxury duos like tweed and neoprene are heat pressed together to form a new spin on performance.
DOUBLE-FACED BASIC
1. prince of wales plaid 2. double-faced spacer jersey 3. spacer viscose/wool 4. nylon-backed jersey 5. neoprene-backed tweed 6. double gabardine
64 Dress Code Dress Code 65
HONORS SOCIETY
CHAMPION
Densely knit textiles have an added touch of relaxed plush in brushed and swept surfaces. Highly technical qualities look ultra compact and light yet almost studious in washed flannel, wool felt and brushed iconic glen check.
THE A-TEAM
CHAMPION
Athletic accents like classic sailor buttons and rip stripe tape give a scholarly appeal. A vintage collegiate approach is taken to fine tweed, rich Bedford cord, stretch gabardine and wool jersey.
68
Dress Code
Dress Code
69
BADGE OF HONOR
CHAMPION
Merits of distinction are donned proudly and honorably by the top of the class. A preppy undertone lends an Americana vibe as traditional cashmere jersey, Prince of Wales check and wool fleece are captured in a timeless mlange.
LUXURIOUS KNITS
1. cashmere jersey 2. prince of wales 3. mlange jersey 4. wool fleece 5. hair interlock 6. merino stripe
70
Dress Code
Dress Code
71
CHAMPION
72
Dress Code
Dress Code
73
ACADEMY
Prestigious dressing is re-envisioned through structured yet performance-driven separates. Deepened neutrals look sophisticated and sharp.
EYE SPY
34
PG.76
DRESS CODE
36
DOUBLE AGENT
33
PG.78
41
ALTER EGO
42
PG.80
43
SECRET SOCIETY
44
PG.82
45
46
48
74
Dress Code
Dress Code
75
EYE SPY
ACADEMY
Discreet and camouflaged looks blend in and out of the background. Uniform basics look bold and sharp with added performance elements. Laminated felt, resin coating, and fleece-backed nylon lend a sleek hand to traditional textures.
PERFORMANCE COATING
1. fleece-backed nylon 2. technical cotton/polyamide 3. jersey backed 4. resin coated 5. wool/polyester bonded 6. laminated felt
76 Dress Code Dress Code 77
DOUBLE AGENT
ACADEMY
Plaid-on-plaid duets suit up in tailored and neat ensembles. Dapper and oversized variations zoom in to breathe new life into the classic staple. Felted windowpane, double-weave and heathered plaid look three-piece suit ready and matchy-matchy.
OVERSIZED PLAIDS
1. heathered plaid 2. shadow check 3. rigid drill 4. felted windowpane 5. bulky double weave
78
Dress Code
Dress Code
79
ALTER EGO
ACADEMY
Double agents are artfully homogenized in formal, gentlemanly suiting. Espionage is achieved through anonymity in clan plaid, pinstripe and dobby weave. Neoprene bonding adds an active practicality.
FORMAL SUITINGS
1. dobby weave back 2. luminous pinstripe 3. neoprene bonded 4. classic pinstripe 5. windowpane check 6. clan plaid
80
Dress Code
Dress Code
81
SECRET SOCIETY
ACADEMY
Classified information is kept hidden behind a private agenda. A preppy front is maintained by schoolboy stripes, silk tie prints and classic tartan. Civilized regalia has a modernized outfit edge.
ACADEMY
84
Dress Code
Dress Code
85
is a division of The Doneger Group Copyright 2013 by Henry Doneger Associates,Inc. 463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 P 212 564 1266 www.doneger.com
All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.