Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DOCUMENT REPORT
GOKALDAS IMAGES
Submitted by:-
P.S.SHRADDHA
RADHIKA AHLAWAT
DFT-VII
2005-2009
Submitted to:-
PREFACE
For this purpose we did our internship at “Gokaldas images” and are grateful
to the management who granted their permission and opportunity for the same.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Apart from these, we would also like to thank the various workers and staff
members who were there to assist us at every step and to answer our queries.
1. INTRODUCTION
1.3 GI DIVISIONS:
GI today stands equal to the world’s largest fashion houses, with its export
operations organized into seven product- seven divisions that function as
independent profit centers.
1.3.2 Outerwear:
Products
Light weight summer jackets in nylons and other weather proof fabrics, heavy
padded anoraks, woolen coats, windcheaters, parkas, athletic tanks, jogging
suits, ski-suits, track suits, swim wear, shorts for men and boys, riding and
hunting jackets.
Fabrics
Nylon and nylon blended fabrics, performance fabrics, fleece, micro-fiber
polyester, moisture wicking fabrics, anti-bacterial fabrics, breathable polyester
blends, faux suede in polyester and blends, light weight nylon.
Monthly capacity
100,000
1.3.5 Lingeries
Products
Brassiere, panties, corset bras, support bras, athletic bras.
Fabrics
Cotton and cotton laces, nylon-spandex, stretch laces, micro-polyester blends.
Monthly capacity
200000
1.4 GI USA
With the globe shrinking and distances dwindling, thanks to jet age and
computers, GI decided to be close to the client. The result was a a fully functional
office and showroom in New York. A dedicated team in this Manhattan office
works tirelessly to pre-empt and meet the client requirements.
1.5 COLLABORATIONS
Recognition of GI’s effort in the global garment manufacturing scene came in the
form of several international tie-ups.
BARBARA has a joint venture with GI to manufacture and retail lingerie in India
and Europe.
PLAYTEX is a buy back agreement with Saralee Corporation.
K-LIFE is a license to produce urban clothing for USA.
OXFORD CLOTHING has a manufacturing agreement with GI for men’s suits.
On the anvil is the extension of the same to formal wear.
LEVIS has a manufacturing agreement with GI, for denims in India.
1.6 GI LOGISITICS
Bangalore, the manufacturing base of GI, has over a dozen direct freighter flights
a week, landing at major European and American cargo hubs.
Chennai, a major port is just 6 hrs away by road.
1.7 GI INFRASTRUCTURE
• 18 specialized garment manufacturing facilities.
• Six node lectra CAD/Cam facility.
1.8 GI RETAIL
Leveraging its core strengths in distribution, merchandising and image creation,
GI introduced the concept of branded clothing, franchising and the open store, to
Indian market WEEKENDER through its associate firm Personality Ltd. in 1987.
Weekender which focused on youth fashion was later extended to children’s
wear, for the 2-12 years age group and branded as Weekender Kids.
Every season Weekender and Weekender Kids launch more than 200 new
styles. Both the brands today are retailed through two separate franchise chains
in 70 exclusive outlets in cities across the nation. They are the leading brands in
their segment, in size, brand appeal and influence on the market.
The domestic retail initiative of GI also includes licensed brands from Warner
Bros. like Harry Potter, Tom & Jerry, Loony tunes and Mickey Mouse & Donald
Duck from Disney. These ranges are conceptualized and manufactured in-house.
Gokaldas Intimatwear, is a joint venture with Barbara of Paris. The JV shall bring
high quality ladies innerwear to the Indian market, with various brand offerings
beginning with enamor.
1.12LOCATION
1.12.1 GI INDIA
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7&12, Industrial Suburb, 2nd Stage,
Yeshwanthpur, Tumkur Road,
Bangalore-560022.
Tel: 91-80-3377059/60
1.12.2 GI USA
Suite 2704/05, 1400 Broadway,
New York
N.Y. 10018
Tel: 212-730-3950
Fax: 91-80-23471757
E-mail: svg@gokaldas.com
Fabric handling
Capabilities:
.
1.14ORGANISATION CHART
2. PROCESS FLOW
• Sampling
o Sampling Execution & Follow up
o Costing
o Sampling Shipments
o Re sampling (If any rejections are received)
o Sampling Approvals
• Planning
o Planning the time required for each of the processes involved in the
execution
o Raw material calculations as per average sheets, adding
wastage/shrinkage at appropriate processes.
o Raw material Procurement
o Fabric requirements
o Non fabric trims/ accessories requirements
o Packing material requirements
• Cutting
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o Instructions/Orders to the in-house Cutting Department
o Calculation of the fabric requirement and checking the
stock/availability once again
o Issue of the fabric / Lining / Other Material etc.
o Layering and Cutting
o Bundling of cut pieces
o Inventory of cut pieces/Bundles/Lots
• Sewing
o Stitch Orders/Instructions
o Issue of cut pieces
o Calculation of raw material requirements
o Issue of raw materials
o Approval of a few stitched pieces before regularizing the issue of
fabrics/raw material
o Issue of other things like samples / patterns / designs / other special
considerations/ Measurement charts.
o Reception of Stitched pieces Checking
o Alteration (if required)
• Re processing cycle
• Shipment/dispatch
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2.1 DURING THE PROCESS FLOW DIFFERENT MEETINGS ARE
CONDUCTED
Pre-requisite
1. A sample garment or sketch.
2. A style file has been started.
3. Information on special requirements.(Printing, embroidery etc)
4. A BOM with all details.
5. Garment breakdown, machine and attachment requirements.
6. Production plan with number of teams required.
Chairperson Merchandiser
BUYER
MERCHANDISER
Design/Sampling Production
Accessories Documentation
Testing Shipping
Marketing Merchandising
• Product development
• Costing
• Getting Purchase Orders
It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a
direct access to the Buyer.
This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product
merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment.
The style is given to the Central Planning team to work out the
SMV values and operation breakdown.
.
The lead time and the delivery dates are informed to the buyer
according to the order size.
.
o Sample development
o Sample approval
o Lab Dip approvals
• Yarn Dyed program: In case of yarn dyed order yarn lab-dip has
to be sent to the buyer for color approval. Upon confirmation, knit
down approval has to be taken from buyer where specified.
Fabric details-
o GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment
o Fabric construction
o Fiber types
o Fabric width
o Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description
o Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases)
o Fabric swatch
Sewing details-
o Stitch SPI for all the parts of the garment
o Stitch distance for all the seams e.g. distance of the top
stitch, distance of bottom hem from the bottom
o Single needle or double needle operation for all the seams
o Stitch no.
o Gauge and bight for overlock machines
Pattern details-
o Size of ready garment at all the required areas
o Size of all the patterns
o Technical drawing of the garment, with important points
mentioned in the diagram.
Finishing details-
o Type of iron to be done( e.g. some garments require only a
mild touch up and the original fall of the garment is allowed
to come.
o A mention about the finishing quality (e. g. only steaming
requires that there should be no shade variation, seam /
water marks, seam impressions showing on the garment.
Packing details-
o Details regarding the type of packing material to be used
o No. of garments in each poly bag or any other kind of pre-
pack.
o Written material on the packing material
o Size of the poly bags and the cartons
o No. of garments/pre-packs to be kept in each carton.
After doing the time study, improvements are made on the basis of time
values and based on which gives targets to the workers.
This consists of
• Breaking down of the work into minute work components.
• Recording the time required to finish the work.
Operator production sheets are maintained for each operator. Each operator is
given a gum sheet in which he/she can fill in the number of bundles and pieces
that he/she completed during that particular hour. This helps in bundle tracking,
WIP and efficiency estimation of the particular operator.
Gum sheets are issued to the batch as soon as the batch is loaded and it has to
be signed by the Supervisor and AAMT after each hour.
In Gokaldas Images six grades are given to operators’ i.e. A+, A, B+, B,
C+, C,.
They are assigning following three grades on the basic of type of operations they
do. For both top and bottom garment the operators are given these three grades.
NOTE:
1. Grade A+
• Almost all operations of A category & performance
• 5 to 6 operations of B category.
2. Grade A
• Minimum of 6 to 8 operations of A category.
• 5 to 6 operations of B category
Att n/b collar with pattern Attach yoke & edge stitch yoke Run stitch neck band
(manual & folder)
Set sleeve placket & Attach main lable to yoke Run stitch neck band
stitch arrow
Set sleeve placket & Attach main lable to yoke Run stitch collar (profile)
stitch arrow
Match & run collar Hem front placket Hem cuff or pocket
Close cuff (folder) Run stitch collar, cuff & flaps Locking operations
Top stitch sides (FOA) Hem side slit Overlock small parts
Top stitch sides (DNLS) Hem sleeve Prepare main label &
W/C label
Attach pocket Attach side seam
5. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Sampling is basically the process of producing some few garment pieces in order
to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style,
etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the
INTERNSHIP AT Sales
GOKALDAS IMAGES
man samples are developed and sent to Page 49
the buyer
Pre-production samples are developed only in
Pilot the
run base size
is done onwith
the all the corrections
production line and one
set of each size is developed in each colour
Fit-sample: - These samples are made to check the fit of the garments.
Sealer sample: -This sample is made after the pre production sample with
changes (if any) or no change and sealed so that the production can be
started. It accompanies a package which contains following reports –
• Fabric package test report.
• Garment package test report.
• Shrinkage report.
Functions:
• Make production markers as per the production plan (i.e. according to
the size ratio given by the ratio planner).
• Make mini markers for consumption at the sampling stage.
• Do digitizing, grading, and pattern making
• Maintain record markers.
Development of production
Development of mini
markers to be issued to
markers for fabric
cutting department.(these
consumption (sent to
are checked by the pattern
merchandiser for costing).
master in terms of right
grading etc.).
7.1 FUNCTIONS
• Receive the accessories from supplier (Domestic/International) and to
store.
• Maintain basic stock and maintain smooth flow of material.
• To check the quality as per standard and quantity received from the
supplier.
• Rational use of accessories and accountability for the authentic use.
• Coordinate with different departments for the accessories.
• Coordinate with supplier, Merchandiser, and Purchase department.
• Keep the dead stock maintain, if accessories having Buyer/brand name
then destroying it.
Name Unit
Buttons Per gross
Label Per piece
Zipper Per piece
Tassel Per piece
Card board Per piece
Carton Per piece
Bar code sticker Per piece
Hanger Per piece
Elastic Per meter
Velcro Per meter
Thread Per meter
Interlining Per meter
Fusing Per meter/Yard
Packing tape Per roll
Poly bag Per Kg.
Draw board Per kg.
Paper (drawing sheet for pattern) Per Rim
TRIMS RECEIVED
PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF
TRIMS
STORAGE OF TRIMS IN
APPROPRIATE RACKS
ISSUE TO BATCHES
Allot area for “Incoming Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.
Incoming goods to be stored here.
Allot area for “Inspected O.K. Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.
All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.
Allot area for “Rejected goods” (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here
and to be disposed off as per instructions.
Allot area for “Inspection” and mark as “Inspection Area”. Provide Table
with White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.
Allot area for “Return to Supplier”. In case of excess material receipt, the
excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than
ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In
case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted
separately as per instructions. )
Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the
Display Board provided.
All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random
selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to
be audited. Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and
circulated to the specified staff for necessary action.
1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and
ensure that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the
concerned for necessary action.
2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up etc.,
as per Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as per
Trims and Accessories Stores at Factories have to make the Quantity check for
all the Items they receive from the Main - Trims & Accessories Stores. Copies of
the Test results are to be received from the Main Stores along with the
consignment for reference. In case, the Tests are not conducted at the Mains
stores, Factory should organize for all the necessary tests and keep the records
for reference.
• First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy
contains various details such as the Sample Date, Prototype Sample,
Order chart, RMR.
• The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report
(RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be
received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered,
the qty received and the balance left to receive.
• There are 2 parts to the trims store.
• Stitching Part
• Packing Part
• The stitching part is executed first. A copy of the RMR is firstly sent to
main stores. The main trim store then sends the trims as per the ordered
quantity with a Delivery Challan.
• The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart following details are
present
–
Fabric swatch
Matching thread for the fabric
- fabric color
- fabric code
Button
Button matching thread
• This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser
signs the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are
then approved from the buyer and signed.
• It should be not known that the buttons are of different shades (in case
they are accepted) and hence, they are stuck to the chart at the backside.
• The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is
held between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head,
Production coordinator and the cutting department head.
• In this meeting it is decide as to which color and style has to be cut first for
production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which
style and color the trims are available for production.
• After the meeting is over, the production starts. The cutting section then
sends a Slip. This slip contains the details – Cut no, Size, Sr no, Lot no,
Qty, Shrinkage, Shade.
Gokaldas Images has a centralized main fabric store located at Tumkur Road. All
fabric and interlining is received by the main fabric store and distributed further to
various units according to required quantity. All the units have fabric sub stores
located in the unit itself.
The fabric main store consists of a fabric in charge, godown in charge, fabric
checker, fabric QC, QA executive, stores assistant, computer operator, DTP
operator and fabric assistants.
Acceptance/rejection of fabric:
Weaving Defects:
• Missing picks
• End out,
• Mixed filling
• Mixed ends
• Slubs
• Yarn distortion
• Weft bar
• Pattern fault
• Dobby faults
• Stop marks
• Smash
• Holes, etc.
Dyeing/printing/finishing Defects:
• Bowing
• Color Bleeding
• Puckering
• Stains
• Skewed or biased
• Selvedge variation
• Scrimp etc.
Allot area for “Incoming Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.
Incoming goods to be stored here.
Allot area for “Inspected O.K. Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.
All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.
Allot area for “Rejected goods” (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here
and to be disposed off as per instructions.
Allot area for “Return to Supplier”. In case of excess material receipt, the
excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than
ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier.
(Incase, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted
separately as per instructions.)
Allot area for “Inspection” and mark as “Inspection Area”. Provide Fabric
Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of
minimum 1200 lux.
On receipt of Fabric in Ware house, the Fabric had to be checked against the
P.O. #. / O.C. #. (Purchase order No. or Order confirmation No.) to ensure that it
is the right item with right quantity as compared to order quantity, number of
Rolls / Bales , Color etc. These items are to be stored separately in specified
The Fabric received are to be checked using “4 Point system” by using the “
Fabric checking machine” or Table. As far as possible avoid use of Tables for
checking. Display the various types of defects for easy reference of the Checker.
The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like “ Mill made “, “ Power Loom ” and
“ Hand Loom ” vary and hence use the right criteria ( points ) as specified by
Buyer / Fabric Department. A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection)
are to be checked. If the defect level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the
Rolls may be inspected after getting approval from concerned.
Utilize SPC technique for Inspection of Fabric and prepare “U” chart for all the
lots inspected. Display the defects like, Bowing – CSV, End to end shade
variation, Defect Standards etc and “ Acceptable ” and “ Not Acceptable”.
In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade
variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they are to be stored in
the specified rack marked “Rejected Items”. Follow the procedure, laid out for
returning the rejected items to the Supplier.
Raise the “Goods Inspection Note” for the passed items as specified. Store the
Fabric with proper Identification Tag (containing details like O.C. No./ P.O. No.,
date of receipt, Delivery note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales,
Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric
Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply,
highlight it, to take necessary action.
Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./
Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt ,
width etc. Mark grain direction. Make shade band of the Rolls received and
accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of shade Bands for distribution as specified
to Marketing and Factories. Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric
Manager / Buyers Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A,
shade B etc). Use Light Box with specified Light for shade segregation.
If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are
marked separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for
revised Pattern Layout.
Cut 1 meter length of fabric from each lot, mark Grain direction and sent it to
Laboratory to conduct the following test.
1. Shrinkage Test.
2. Color Fastness test.
3. Rubbing Test - Dry & Wet.
4. Count & Construction.
While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation
wise. Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.
All machines used in the Fabric ware house like, Fabric Inspection machine
etc should carry Maintenance card and Preventive Maintenance card duly
filled in.
FABRIC INSPECTION
RETURN BACK TO
FABRIC RELAXATION
H/O
FABRIC ROLL
SEGREGGATION
PREPARATION OF
CUTTABLE RATIO
ISSUE TO CUTTING
SECTION
Allot area for “Incoming Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.
Incoming goods to be stored here.
Allot area for “Inspected O.K. Goods” and mark on the Rack concerned.
All inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.
Allot area for “Rejected goods” (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here
and to be disposed off as per instructions.
Allot area for “Inspection” and mark as “Inspection Area”. Provide Fabric
Inspection Machine or Table with White Laminate and light illumination of
minimum 1200 lux. Whenever the lighting level decrease, change the
Tube light bulbs.
Check & compare the Fabric quality & quantity received with “Delivery Note”
against each O.C. #. / P.O. #. and inform the deviations to the concerned.
Record the receipt along with storage location. Check the actual rolls / bales with
the “Shade band card” came along with the Fabric. If required prepare “Shade
band card” for the with details of roll number, length, shade number and issue it
to Cutting section and other sections concerned for their reference. Store the
material in Racks with proper Identification Tag as mentioned earlier. The Fabric
receipt register to have the location of the Rack, where the fabric is stored.
Under no circumstance, the Fabric should be kept on Floor.
The following Test / Inspection procedure to be followed - O.C / P.O. wise - for
the Fabric Rolls / Bales received for easy trace ability.
If the Fabric already under went 4-point inspection system in Fabric Ware house,
collect and keep the copy of Inspection report & copy of Test results for all the
Rolls / Bales received. If Fabric is not inspected using 4 point system, organize
for Inspection as mentioned earlier. Display the type of defect and their
acceptance level wherever required for each and every O.C / P.O. Inform the Test
results of the Fabric received to all concerned for necessary action. Display
Fabric defect standards (clearly marked “Acceptable” and “Not Acceptable”)
Note: In case the shrinkage range happens to be within 1.5 %, against Pattern #,
put “–” (dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for
the P.O.)
9.5 Shade segregation for non- wash fabric: (Stretch & Rigid)
1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30
cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the
swatches.
2. Identify the Face side and back side. Mark the Roll #, O.C. / P.O. # date
received on the back side of the swatch.
3. Using Light box with specified Light, segregate the swatches to visible
shade Category. .
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4. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as Shade category as
“A”, “B”, “C” etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale ( may be in
consultation with Marketing department / Buyers representative ).
5. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of “A”, “B”, “C” etc. Color code
each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags
on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting
section, Sewing section, Finishing section, Packing section and Q.A.
Department should also contain this color codification ( along with
Shrinkage % ).
6. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required
“Ratio” (of sizes during final packing). Cuttable ratio and quantity should
be informed to Marketing, Q.A. department and Buyers representative in
advance for approval.
7. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (“A”, “B”, “C” etc) on the Cut
Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.
8. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in Sewing section should have
the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.
9. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton
should contain only one shade category of Garments.
1. Cut swatches from all the Rolls / Bales received as specified to size 30
cms x 30 cms. It is preferable to use Metal Template for cutting the
swatches.
2. Identify the Face side and back side. Mark the Roll #, O.C. / P.O. # date
received on the back side of the swatch.
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3. In case of Denim Fabric, join all the swatches by over lock to make a
Blanket.
4. Wash the Swatch Blanket as per specified wash program.
5. Fabric Manager segregates the Rolls / Bales as Shade category as “A”,
“B”, “C” etc based on the shade of each Roll / Bale by viewing under Light
Box with specified Lamp.
6. Group the Rolls / Bales as shade category of “A”, “B”, “C” etc. Color code
each shade category. Write the shade category in the Identification Tags
on each roll / bale and color code it. The swatch card issued to Cutting
section should also contain this color codification (along with Shrinkage
%).
7. Cutting section: - Cut the Rolls / Bales shade wise as per the required
“Ratio” (of sizes during final packing).
8. Cutting section: - Mention shade category (“A”, “B”, “C” etc) on the Cut
Panels. Color code the shade category during Bundling.
9. Sewing section: - Identification Tag used in sewing section should have
the shade category mentioned in it for trace ability purpose.
10. Segregate Garments shade wise, bundle it separately, before dispatching
to Laundry to undergo specified wash program. (Mention wash program in
Identification Tag along with other information like O.C./ P.O.# etc.).
11. Washing Plant: - Wash Garment shade wise with different “Recipes”
(developed already) to bring all shades to one common standard shade.
12. Packing section: - Packing should be done in such a way that one Carton
should contain only one shade category of Garments.
13. The shade band cards should be available with Cutting, Sewing, Finishing,
Packing, Q.A. Department, Marketing and Buyers representative.
Note: In case the Iron shrinkage range happen to be within 1.5 %, against
Pattern # , put “ –” ( dash - indicating that there is only one Marker / Pattern for
the P.O.). Rarely ironing shrinkage exceeds 1.5 %.
The first stage in the manufacture of garment is the cutting of the material into
the necessary pattern shapes. This is the place where the raw material enters the
production chain. This is the place where most critical elements of cost dance to
the music of production. This is the “Cutting Room”. And, the aim is process
optimization control wastage. Increase efficiency wastage in the cutting room
happens in the form of uncontrolled end wastage, unscientific splicing, improper
marker and operator inefficiency. Bottlenecks increase the throughput time, which
is a significant loss on the critical time. Cutting is the primary level of activity in
the production process. Efficiency of entire unit can depends on the cutting
section.
Points to be considered:
• Check for the presence of master pattern before commencing the bulk
cutting.
• All the patterns received by the factory should be thoroughly checked for
notches, seam allowances, and alignment with other panels
• All markers made for cutting should be either duplicate at the factory or by
using multiple carbons
• Each pattern should have a grain line marking
MARKER PLANNING
MARKER MAKING
MARKER CHECKING
LAYING
QUALITY AUDIT
LAY RELAXATION
MANUAL MARKING
NAMING OF PANELS
CUTTING
QUALITY AUDIT
SOBAR NUMBERING
PARTS REPLACEMENT
BUNDLING
ISSUE TO BATCHES
10.2 Functions:
• To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining
according to the PO
• Getting the markers made from the CAD
• Checking the patterns with the actual patterns
• Draw manual markers
• Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan
• Laying the fabric
• Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with
the cut panels on the right time
• Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels
• Returning the remnant roll to the stores
• Maintaining the records
• Checking the quality of the cut panels
Once the order gets confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment
component for the pilot run. Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing,
and Planning Department sits together to decide the no. of pieces to be cut and
supplied in advance, in accordance with the productivity derived for that style
from the pilot run.
The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures
the fabric then the fabric issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the
specified marker length and width. The number of piles depends upon the type of
Fabric, its thickness, cutting method and the desired height of lay. The no. of plies
also depends on type of fabric and weight.
After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, alignment,
Uneven Tension, Narrow goods, and other fabric defects. Then the marker is
spread on the top of the lay. Stickers including all the details as PO no, cut no,
style no, part name, part number and sizes is affixed on the top of the lay of all
individual parts. Before cutting the last inspection of lay has been done to check
that the marker is coming well in the lay’s width and length so it can properly cut.
Cutting room is one of the core areas in any garment organization. As a unit
cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing cost than any other
department concerned with the actual production of garments.
1. Cutting chart
The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in to bundles. If Fusing is
required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes place
before bundling but after Sorting.
Note: All the reference cards should be displayed in the concerned Display
Boards and Files should be available in the concerned places.
All machines used in the Cutting section like, Spreading machine, Cutting
machine, Band Knife, Fusing machine etc should carry Maintenance card and
Preventive Maintenance card duly filled in.
General Points to be observed:
The following points to be taken care of in the Cutting section:-
Display SOP‘s in English and Local language.
Display approved Garment: – In case of critical styles with specific line
placements, required layout of parts to be highlighted and displayed for
easy reference and access to all.
Fabric and Management Report: – To be recorded & displayed against
each O.C. / P.O. – (a) all Fabric status details style / color wise, (b)
Shade swatches, color standards duly approved , (c) Parts replacement
% style wise.
Cutting CAD Marker: - All Markers to be generated by CAD. Authenticity of
the same is being confirmed by Cutting Room Auditor. Markers to be color
coded in case of Multiple Pattern usage (due to variation in shrinkage).
Bar Numbering: - All panels to be numbered using Bar Stickers. Color
code So Baring in case of multiple pattern usage.
Storage of Cut parts: - Use Flat racks for storing cut parts. Mobile cut
parts storage also to be use. Use polythene bags to prevent dust and
stains.
Quality control: - Defined Quality control procedure in practice and record
to be available.
Notches on Patterns: - Process Audit to be done by Department Auditor.
The final garment comes out of a sewing department because of a set of well-
coordinated steps in each of the batches. It is the most dynamic department of
all. The layout, machines, batch size, no. of Batches, method of operation, no. of
workers on the floor etc can get changed according to the new style, order
quantity or production plan.
Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department
comes in to action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for
Production as well as the Quantity. It allocates the quantity & job order to different
units based on their capacity.
Then the IED Department in collaboration with Factory Manager, decides the
batch size, number of Batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch.
Other details such as no of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for
different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and standardized at the
sampling stage.
• The shift starts at 9:30 am in the morning. The inline quality controller
checks the un-finished pieces of the garment and check against the
original sample garment.
• The line supervisor check the hourly production of each part of the
garment and also check the daily production status which have details
regarding line numbers, order details, particular regarding man power and
the machine available , line’s expected and actual target operation target ,
WIP and the operator daily operation output
• The supervisor also ensures that necessary thread, label and tapes are
available with operator.
• The pieces are inspected carefully and then feed into line.
• They check the 1st ply, middle ply and last ply in a cut-piece bundle at the
time of feeding or when cut pieces arrives in sewing room.
• The pieces are marked and notched by template for the particular
operation at the time of feeding or inline process.
• When major problem arises in the line during production then quality
people put the check point over there for finding the reason for the
problem and solving the problem.
P.O.WISE PLANNING
M/C LAYOUT
BATCH SETTING
PILOT RUN
BULK PRODUCTION
100% CHECKING
DISPATCH TO FINISHING
SECTION.
INTERNSHIP AT GOKALDAS IMAGES Page 91
11.4Sewing
The operator in the lines have been trained on the operations they are
required to perform and have been given specific instruction as to how to carry
out the operation for each style. They have also been taught certain technical
aspects of sewing such as stitch length, bight width, and thread tension etc. so
that they can tell at once if at all there are any problems with their machines.
They have also been taught minor adjustment so that time is not wasted in calling
the service technicians.
Each operator is responsible for his/her own workmanship and thus, has
the responsibility of checking the quality of sewing as the operator is performed.
Moreover a Job card is hanged on the machine for showing mock stitch sample.
Receive Cut panels from sorting section and verify against the delivery
note.
Panels are stored style wise / color wise /size wise with identification.
Line plan is received from the Supervisor/Floor in charge.
Cut panels are issued to the batches according to the Line plan.
Trims are collected from Sub stores and issued to the batches according
to the cut panels issued by Sorting.
Entry is made n the register and report t given o the Supervisor/ Floor in
charge.
The Order completion report is prepared after the completion of the order.
Approval is taken from Production Manager / Floor in charge and handed
over OCR to the Execution team and materials to the Stores.
Line Plan show the actual sequence of operations, number of stations for each
operations or combination of operations. This will also show the Marker
positions, Iron Table positions, Quality checking positions.
Statistical data on DHU (Defects per 100 units). Like Daily line defect %, Weekly
%, Month % etc to be collected and analyzed Graphs, Bar charts, Histogram etc
to be drawn for analysis.
11. Garments from first offline are held as bulk standard at end line inspection,
final inspection, pressing and packing. All must have Pilot evaluation
reports attached.
Alert Green:
Step 1. Roving QC examines 7-10 pieces
Step 2. Zero faults found
Step 3. Attach green disc and proceed to next inspection (operator)
2nd re-inspection:
1. Roving QC examines 7-10 pieces
2. A) Zero faults found-replace green disc and proceed to next operator
B) One or more faults found, minor or major- Red disc remains same,
highlight fault,
Hydroexractor
Grinding
INTERNSHIP AT GOKALDAS if required for the style
IMAGES Page 102
Tumble dry
Garments send to finishing for packing
The washing section head receives the recipe and the desired finish
(wash) in the garment from the merchandiser, who gets this specification
from the buyer.
• According to the wash and the recipe the washing section prepares 3-5
samples and sends to the buyer. The buyer approves one of the samples.
• The washing section also alter the recipe accordingly and use.
• After the buyer approves the sample, a Lot is given that wash (bulk
washing). 2 samples out of the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for
approval.
• If the buyer finds the earlier sample similar to the 2 new samples, it is
passed. Once it is passed, the bulk washing starts for the entire style
production (same recipe as made by the washing section is used).
• Along with the garments comes the Delivery Challan. This Challan
contains the details of the buyer name, style number and the number of
garments received for washing.
• When the garments are received, it is checked if the garment is soft or
hard. If the fabric is soft, then the garment is just washed with a softener.
• If the garment is hard then the garment undergoes a proper Wash Cycle.
• The wash cycle starts with the process of Desizing. This is the
process of starch/size removal which makes the garment stiff.
• In the process of Desizing, firstly the garments are put in the
industrial washing machine. Along with the garments are added
1000 liter of water and chemicals – Cotflax + Lube + Wetting agent.
Steam is also passed through.
BATCH RECEIVING
COUNTER CHECKING
TRIMMING
IRONING
MIDDLE CHECKING
FINAL CHECKING
PRESENTATION CHECKING
MEASUREMENT CHECKING
CARTON PACKING
Finishing process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them
appealing through pressing. Garments are check according to quality system
approved by a particular buyer.
Kaja Marking and Making: This Section receives the sewn garments.
Initially templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja
are made the marked position by the specialised machine.
Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching
machine buttons are attached at the marked positions.
Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button
shank wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons
on the fabric surface.
Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the
kaja section where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are
Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments
and they are further sent to the washing or the finishing department.
13.2.3 Spotting
Stains which are not removed from the garments after washing also are
removed by spotting in this process. As soon as the quality checkers comes
across a defect, he brings the defective piece to the operators meant for the
purpose of trouble shooting i.e. alteration and satin removal section. This section
comprises of the following personnel
• alteration tailors (eight in no.) for the correction of stitching defects
• spot washing gun operators ( eight in no.) for removal of various
type of stains.
The whole idea of this seam ironing was to facilitate the quality checkers.
The ironing makes the seams visible. So, detection of any seam defects like
broken stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy. An hourly
production record of seam ironers was maintained.
Not nearly as much attention has been paid to the technology of pressing as
to the technology of sewing and cutting. Some interesting points are:
• stitching defects
• stains
• weaving defects
• button/buttonholing defects
Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by
him. All these checkers are given regular on-the-job training. Finishing incharge
or supervisors teach checkers the correct method of garment checking.
There are two types of production records that are maintained for these
quality checkers. They are
a)hourly production record
b)daily production record
The hanging trolleys from where the garments were retrieved for ironing
and placed after ironing were ergonomically designed, keeping in mind the
ironing operator’s movement. An hourly production record of each ironer was
maintained for the purpose of keeping a track on the total production.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The
following things were kept in mind during carton packing
• Number of garments to be packed in one carton
• Ratio asked for example M:L:XL=1:2:2
• Decide on the plies and dimensions(as specified by the buyer) of
the cardboard to be used
• Get the cartons tested for bursting strength
• Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified
• Closing the cartons with cellophane tape
• Sealing the cartons with plastic cord
• Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's
address, ratio, net weight or gross weight of the carton etc.
Details about the style no., PO number, size etc are mentioned above the
carton box .Bar code slip is also sticked on the cartons. Each carton has its own
identification over the bar code slip.
Ratio packing:
Garments are packed size-ratio wise. In this kind of packing all the sizes are
packed together in a given ratio.
Example:
Size Large
Ratio S M L XL
10 20 20 10
Location packing:
In this kind of packaging, shipment is packed in parts as per the buyers
requirement. This is also commonly used as shipment has to be send to
Visual check: All the Garments to be checked for the Visual Defects
related to stitching, Fabric, Trims etc. Garments which are rejected are to
be rectified. Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect
and the remedial action taken. This will ensure that the Garment has been
rectified and free from defect. Record to be maintained for the % of
garments sent for Alternation / Rectification. Similarly maintain separate
record for the % of garments that underwent Spot washing.
Garments after Ironing are to be checked for right type of Folding,
Packing, attaching right type of Tags, Presentation, etc. Master Cartons to
be checked for the right information as specified.
Place Checkers/Inspectors identification mark in the garment at specified
place.
Mini- Q.A. Center: The Mini- Q.A. Center: The Min-Q.A. Center should
be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux lighting level. Display copy
Quality Audits:
Quality Policy:
Quality is:
The standard of excellence needed, throughout the business, to develop
and deliver the products and commitments to the customer.
Strategy:
Achieve independent quality certification for each of the business areas.
The Q.A. Team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance Manager.
The role and responsibility of each one is clearly defined. They are empowered
with giving stop advice to the production department, in case, the Q.A. team
observe too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost. Production
department then conducts a meeting along with Q.A. for necessary corrective
actions. Once the Q.A. is satisfied about the actions taken, regular production
commences. All the Q.A.s are briefed with the Quality System in Fabric
Warehouse, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, and Packing. Job rotation is followed for
Q.As to ensure more effectiveness.
The batch size for each audit is very much determined by the stage
where pre-shipment AQL Inspection takes place; however, every
effort must be made to ensure that the batch size is no less than 50
selling units.
o Major fault is a fault that would make the product either un-
sellable or the customer would return it if noticed.
o Minor fault is a fault that may make the product either or the
customer would be dissatisfied if noticed.
When the above step has been completed, the rejected garments
must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for repair or
seconding.
There must be one sheet per auditor per day regardless of how
many different styles a day and individual auditor audits and the
audit date and the auditors name must be completed on top of each
sheet.
JIT/Line No. The number of the team where the stock was
produced.
Style This is the stroke number of the style audited. And
must include any relevant suffixes.
Colour This is the colour/colours of the garments included in
the audit. This is an optional column and does not
have to be used.
Batch Size The total number of individual selling units in the
specific audit.
Sample The total number of selling units inspected determined
by the sampling plan.
SAMPLE AUDIT
Major Faults The number of garments, which have a fault/faults
categorised as major from the inspection criteria.
Minor Faults The number of garments, which have a fault/faults,
categorised as minor from the inspection criteria.
A/R This is to indentify if the audit was accepted ‘A’ or
rejected ‘R’.
100% AUDIT
Major Faults The total number of garments carrying major faults
found in both the audit and the 100% inspection of the
remaining stock.
Minor Faults The total number of garments carrying minor faults
found in both the audit and 100% inspection of the
remaining stock.
Fault Codes The total number of faults, by category found in both
INTERNSHIP AT GOKALDAS IMAGES Page 121
the audit and 100% inspection.
15. RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
TESTING LAB
15.1 PROCESS CHART
Conditioning
15.2.1 Count:
For evaluating the count of the fabric 30 threads each of 30 cm are taken out
from the fabric for both warp and weft and are weighed using electronic
weighing balance.
15.2.2 Construction:
Construction of warp and weft are determined by the use of pick glass or by
dissection method. Normally, the numbers of threads present in warp and weft
direction in one inch of the fabric are counted using the pick glass. When it is
difficult to count the threads using pick glass, more than one inch of fabric is
cut from two different places of warp and weft and by removing threads from
15.2.3 GSM:
The Fabric to be tested for GSM is folded in to and placed between the GSM
cutter and the cutting pad. When the safety catch is released, a slight
pressure on the hand wheel brings internal blades into contact with the fabric.
Specimens are cut by rotating the hand wheel under pressure. The GSM
cutter blade cuts fabric in a circular shape of diameter 11.2 centimeter. Out of
the two specimens place the specimen formed by the top ply on the weighing
machine and close the window so that no air is disturbs the fabric and thus
causing incorrect readings. After few seconds reading is taken. This gives the
GSM of the fabric. GSM cutter is used for knit fabrics. In case of woven fabric
a sample of 10 X 10 centimeter is cut and weighed on the electronic weighing
machine, the weight thus obtained is multiplied by 100 to obtain the GSM of
the fabric.
15.2.4 Shrinkage:
The sample size used for shrinkage should be of 75 centimeter length
minimum and full width of the fabric roll. Three markings of 50 centimeter are
marked on the fabric width with indelible ink in both directions. If sample is
small then 10 inches marking is done. In the case of knitted fabrics in tubular
form, two markings each on length wise are marked on each surface of the
fabric. They are washed in the washing machine for 12 minutes, rinsed for 6
minutes and spinning for 6 minutes. Few drops of wetting agent are added to
water before washing. The samples are dried using tumble drier (temperature
not exceeding 60°C) or as per requirement. This cycle is repeated two more
times. The sample is cooled at room temperature and the final measurements
are taken. Under the shrinkage scale percentage shrinkage or extension is
directly read. Average value is reported. Formula for calculating shrinkage is:
Shrinkage %= change in dimensions/original dimensions
ISO gray scale for color change and staining for European buyers. The
difference in color change and the amount of color transfer are given a
numerical value ranging from 5 to 1.
Class 5 Excellent
Class 4 Very good
Class 3 Good
Class 2 Fair
Class 1 Poor
ENTRAN
C
EMERGE INSPECTION / RECUTTING TABLE
CE
H
E
C NCY EXIT
K
I
N
G B
SPREADING/CUTTING TABLE U
N
D
L
BAND
I
FABRIC STORE
(16.2 x 18.5)
KNIFE
N
M/C SPREADING/CUTTING TABLE G
TABLE
INSPECTION CUTTIN
G DEPT.
TABLE OFFICE
FUSING
MACHINE
GENERATOR &
(25.6 x 16.6)
TOILETS
OFFICE
OF
FACTOR SPREADING/CUTTING TABLE
ENTRAN
Y
CE
MANAGE
R (12.9
(11.8
x (11.8
x STORE AMBULAN
19.1 CE ROOM
CRECH
0) 19.10 E
)
RECORD
H.R
STORE
I.E
TOILETS
TRIMS
STORE GUEST
TOILET
(6.5)
26
23 WORK
WORK STATIO
STATIO NS
(16.5)
NS
30 (16.5)
30 30
WORK 30
WORK STATION WORK
STATION STATIO WORK
S
S STATIO
(16.10) NS
(16.10) NS
(20.7) (16.10)
ENTRAN
CE
CHECKIN PM PM CHECKIN
G TABLE TABLE TABLE G TABLE
INTERNSHIP AT GOKALDAS IMAGES Page 129
INTERNSHIP AT GOKALDAS IMAGES Page 130
MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEM
3. Order Processing:
¢ New Orders
¢ Bulk and Distribution Orders
¢ Order confirmation
¢ Order summary reports
¢ Order detail reports
¢ Delivery Schedule
2. Materials:
¢ Material Requirement
¢ Material Requirement time phased
¢ Material Master List
¢ Inventory material list
¢ Material Commitments
3. Style:
¢ Work in progress
¢ Stock on Hand
¢ Quantity on Order
¢ Shipped