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planning your garden: part b

If the hard landscaping and lawned areas of the garden provide the skeleton, the planting provides the flesh. It fills out the framework you have created, adding bulk, substance and height.

Depending on the site, your two dimensional plan may have a third dimension of height in the form of retaining walls and changes of level, but it is the planting that will introduce bulk; for your initial plant selection should seek to extend the plan's intention upwards. It is this bulk that starts to define both the positive forms on the site and the negative spaces or voids, between them, suddenly your outside room has not only walls but furniture as well. Garden Design, John Brookes.

plant selection
There are so many excellent plant varieties around now that choosing the right species for a particular site can be a real challenge. However, there are many good reference books and websites around to help with your selection - (see reference list at the end of this module) Often these will describe each plant's final height, spread, leaf and flower colour, as well as including information on soil and water requirements, and other growth characteristics. 1

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ornamental plants
When selecting a plant for a particular area of the garden, the following three aspects are most important: how well suited the plant is to the microclimate of the location what sort of appearance you want in this area which plants are available. All three aspects are essential - no matter how well a plant fits in with your design in an architectural sense, it is of no benefit if it cannot grow successfully in local conditions. As we have seen, the microclimatic conditions in each area of the garden may vary considerably so they need to be assessed carefully. Points to look for include: sun intensity and duration, soil conditions, rainfall, air circulation and temperature. For example, many plants perform better in partial or full shade than in full sun. Similarly, the length of daily exposure to a particular light level can influence how well some plants grow. Soil pH, soluble salts level and drainage properties also have an influence on the plants you can grow successfully. Other points to consider include: areas of the garden where there is little or no air movement, as plants susceptible to mites, scales and other insects will usually be attacked more severely in areas with poor

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air circulation; daily variations in maximum and minimum temperatures, which in some cases may be extreme; and level of disturbance - in some parts of the garden plants are more at risk of trampling or being knocked by passers-by, and some plants will tolerate this more successfully than others. As you progress through the course, you will find that you begin to develop a better knowledge of plants and their varied requirements. You will quickly become familiar with the plants that are most widely available in your geographical area and are considered to grow best. However, don't be afraid to try new plants if you think they will suit local conditions. The architecture of a plant will also be of key importance. Plant architecture consists of form, size, texture and colour. Plant form can be classified in a number of ways, some of the most common of which are shown below:

Plants should be selected on the basis of their mature size or a size at which they can be maintained easily. Consider each plants texture, seasonal foliage colour, flowers, fruit, and bark. When possible, select plants that provide year-round interest. For example, choose a tree, such as a silver birch, that has attractive spring flowers, beautiful autumn or midsummer colour, and shedding bark for winter interest. It is also important to be aware of potential insect and disease problems. Desirable plants are those resistant to or tolerant of pests such as mites, scale, nematodes, root rots, powdery mildew, wilts, galls, blights, and leaf spots. Plants in some locations may also need to be tolerant of air pollution and animal problems.

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a planting scheme
consider height and scale
When deciding on a planting scheme, take the height and shape of each plant into account, both in relation to other plants and to the scale and size of the area. For example, a small garden would look overcrowded if it contained a large tree such as a horse a chestnut (Aesculus); smaller-growing species, such as rowan (Sorbus aucuparia), would be more in proportion. Successful plant groupings often depend on harmony of scale; a grouping that combines many different plants, all of greatly differing heights, may simply look unplanned and untidy, but there should be some variation so that the scheme does not look too regimented. Even on a small scale, such as in a rock garden, consider how dwarf shrubs and conifers may be combined with cushion- and carpet- forming rock plants to create variety and interest through height and scale differences, whilst still appearing well-balanced. If grouped with much larger plants, small plants are often overlooked, so try to put them in a setting where they will be appreciated, and can show themselves at their best.

plant what grows best

This can be determined by visiting a local nursery and by observing other gardens in the area. Remember that you can also incorporate native plants into the garden design, which you can do quite simply by utilising native vegetation already growing in the garden. This can be a subtle way of creating harmony between the garden and the surrounding environment.

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observe your planting environment

As noted above, it is important to take into account the microclimate of each area. Are the lighting conditions full sun, partial sun, or shade? Is the elevation high and dry or low and moist? Is the soil acidic or alkaline, rich organic or sandy? Is the climate hot, cold, rainy, desert, windy or salty? You may have a combination of these conditions in your garden. Also consider the orientation of your house. Remember that in the winter the sun is lower and, therefore, shade from the house or from garden structures may block out sunlight. Plants may also be chosen for their usefulness as erosion control on slopes, as wind screens, or to provide shade or wildlife food.

plan a year-round display

Pick your plants so that you have attractive colour and texture in your garden all year round. For example, an early blooming evergreen shrub such as azalea might provide colour in the spring and green in the winter whereas perennials such as lupins may provide colour in summer but die back in the winter. Other plants may be chosen for their colourful stems, peeling or ornamental bark or unusual stem shapes. There are many plant combinations using annuals, perennials, grasses, vines, shrubs, trees, and bulbs, that will accomplish an attractive year-round display.

natural plant associations

When deciding which plants to place together, it is sometimes helpful to bear in mind how they would grow naturally so that the grouping as well as the selection of plants is appropriate. Imitating plant associations from nature has distinct advantages. In every natural habitat, associations have developed between plants that blend together well. These plant communities are adapted to the local soil and climate or microclimate and they thrive in the same growing conditions. In addition, the range of plants that thrive may be affected by other factors. For example, chalk downland, if left ungrazed, will be invaded by shrubs and trees, and the grassland plants are quickly crowded out.

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Monocultures of one species (that is large groupings of one particular plant) rarely occur in nature. Even if you find a large cluster of the same species, they are almost always intermingled with other species. Any bare soil is rapidly colonised by local flora, and different layers of vegetation may all be found on the same piece of ground. The highest layer is the tree canopy, below that there are shrubs and climbers, and at ground level there are herbaceous plants and bulbs. Such layered planting is easily reproduced in the garden.

planning beds and borders

The basic principles remain the same whether planning an herbaceous or mixed border, or an island bed. The design of a border can have a profound impact on the mood of a garden. In a formal setting, straight borders with a limited colour scheme might fit best, whereas in an informal garden, irregular or curved shapes, with a more relaxed approach to planting, are appropriate. Beds and borders can vary in size, but should be in keeping with the size of the garden. Generally, 1.5m (5ft) is the minimum width for a border to have impact in the garden, and to create a well-balanced, layered effect.

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Island beds, unlike borders, are surrounded by lawn or paving and so can be seen from all sides. It is important to take this into account when developing a planting design. In the past, depending on the size and style of the garden, a single herbaceous border might be backed by a wall, fence or hedge, while a pair of borders might flank a path. Lines were often formal, almost regimented. In modern gardens a mixed border, comprising small trees, shrubs, climbers, bulbs and annuals, as well as perennials, is a more common sight. The plants you choose for a border depend very much on the effect you wish to create. You might, for instance, choose to plant large, distinct groups of a single type of plant along quite formal lines. Or you might choose a more informal, fluid effect, with drifts of each plant flowing into each other. This approach creates swathes of colour and texture, and less clearly defined edges. Mixed borders and beds have the advantage of providing year-round interest. They also allow gardeners to plan a garden suited to their particular requirements. A border with many shrubs and just a few perennials requires much less maintenance than one containing many perennials and annuals and just one or two shrubs. Factors that need to be considered when planning a border include: Height - site taller plants towards the back of a frontfacing border, graduating towards the shorter ones in the front. This creates a tiered effect and means that no plants are hidden from view. In an island bed, the tallest plants should be placed in the centre, with the smallest round the edge. Dont follow this scheme too rigidly, however, or it may seem too formal and regular. Varying the position of the tallest and shortest plants can bring informality and originality to the border.

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The wider a border, the taller the plants may be - very tall plants look awkward in a narrow border, and there may be a steep angle from the tallest to the shortest which spoils the line of the garden. Planting in groups - Grouping small and medium-sized plants together can create a huge impact, where sometimes individual specimens get lost. If the plants are positioned at random in odd-numbered groups this can still produce a fluid, natural effect. The smaller the plant, the larger the group should be: Berengia species, for example, look effective in threes, while London pride (saxifraga x urbium) looks better in groups of seven or more. Form - perennials have widely differing forms and silhouettes: upright, round, arching, horizontal. Mixing plants with contrasting forms can add richness and depth to a border. The slim spikes of delphiniums, for example, are tall and straight, and could be planted alongside the foaming, cloud-like cushions of Gypsophilia paniculata for maximum impact. Texture - foliage contributes most to the texture of a bed or border. Texture may be affected by leaf size and shape, as well as the leaf surface - is it matt, waxy, glossy, leathery, ribbed, or woolly? Again, mixing plants with varying textures can create much extra interest in a border. Colour - You can use colour to create a vibrant, blazing display of oranges or reds, or a much more muted, watercolour effect with gentle pastel shades. Some garden schemes have been based on a single colour - such as the famous white garden at Sissinghurst, Kent, or on a limited selection of colours. When planning a colour scheme bear in mind that foliage colour is just as important as flower colour. Plants with white- or cream-variegated leaves, such as Hosta crispula can enhance a white colour scheme, while the golden foliage of Filipendula ulmaria Aurea would set off a yellow one. Golden foliage colours generally look best in sun, and white in light shade, but very hot, dry conditions may scorch yellow leaves.

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special requirements
You may also want to take other factors into account as you design your planting scheme. Is scent important in the garden? Or do you want a garden that will attract bees and butterflies? Perhaps you are keen grow flowers or grasses to display in the house or use in dry arrangements?

structural planting
A number of plants have a striking architectural or sculptural impact some from their natural growth habit, others from their foliage, stems, or flowers. There is a great variety of forms and effects, ranging from the low, spreading mass of prostrate juniper to the stately upright flower spikes and thistle-like leaves of Acanthus spinosus. Structural plants are often used singly as a feature or focal point, but they can also be effective as part of the overall design framework. They are excellent for visually linking the house (or other non-living feature) with the garden, as the sculptural, but living, form, spans the transition from hard materials to soft planting. Including a few strongly-shaped plants in an otherwise unstructured and informal plan helps to give the design focus and contrasts well with the soft lines of the free planting. With deciduous or herbaceous plants, plan the scene so that other plants provide a similar function during the winter months. For example, a group or red-barked dogwoods (Cornus alba) could be planted next to a clump of Gunnera magellanica so that the dogwoods become a spectacular feature once the Gunnera dies back.

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useful sources
Brickell, C (ed.). 1992. The RHS Encyclopedia of Gardening. Dorling Kindersley. Bromhall, N. 2003. Complete Gardens Interactive Plant Finder and Gardens Guide. Complete-Gardens.com Ltd. McHoy, P. 1992. The Ultimate Garden Planner. Lorenz Books. Royal Horticultural Society. 2004. The RHS Plant Finder. The following websites also contain very good plant finder sections, as well as a great deal of other useful gardening information: The Royal Horticultural Society. www.rhs.org.uk BBC Gardening. www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/

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extract from RHS level 2 certificate in horticulture

Copyright: Edinburgh Garden School This is a short extract from the Edinburgh Garden School, RHS Level 2 Horticulture course. For more information on our full range of gardening, horticulture and design courses, please visit our website: http://www.gardenschool.eu

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